This video describes and demonstrates a simple, easy, and accurate method to set up jointer knives. This method requires the use of a jig that utilizes a dial indicator.
This video helps a lot for setting up knives, but I found this video looking for more info on setting up an entire table not just knives. You should retitle the video. Also you should consider linking the tool you used. As I am now searching for that tool.
Very well explained...but I came here to learn how to set up/align my jointer tables. You might want to consider changing your video title to "How to Set Up Jointer Knives". Just a thought...
Great video Dave I like your explanation as to why and how. Good job! But I don't "SEE"Just kidding! (You say see a lot in the video) I have a Delta 6 inch jointer 1996 model 37-190 when Delta still made a few good products. This thing has been flawless Until about 6 six months ago my idiot brother in law came and leeched off of us, while I was away. He used my jointer as his personal coffee cup holder while he abused my other tools that I could not lock up. He also used the out feed of the jointer as his anvil. After he was run off via shot gun and the Sherif. When I returned I did spend some time cleaning and removing the coffee cup stains and who knows what other stains. It looks nice now. 400 grit sand paper and wD-40 and then Johnson's paste wax? Today I needed to square up some lumber, when I ran my stock over the cutters the out feed table was stopping the stock from moving forward. Up till now it was perfect. Due to the anvil action I am pretty sure. The gibs have never been moved from day one set from the factory. Today I had to move them because the out feed table would not move. I finally got the the table to move. Next I need to check the blade height. That will be easy thanks to you. Thank you for taking the time to post this video.
Loved the video! I just ordered a Oneway! ... I have a question though, How do you determine the height of the outfeed table before using the gauge to align the knives? (both my infeed and outfeed tables are adjustable) ... Thanks for your help ... I'm a noob, have had my (used) jointer 3 days.
Simplest thing to do is back the jack screws out a couple of turns. Place the OneWay jig on the outfield table. Set a blade at top dead center (highest point). Now raise or lower the table until the gauge on the jig zeros out. This will be a good height for your outfeed table. Now you have some play to move the blades either up or down in order to set the proper height. If you were to start the whole process with the jack screws tightened all the way down, then zero out the gauge on the outfield table you will only be able to adjust the blades in one direction, up. By starting with the jack screws backed out a little you give yourself the ability to both raise and lower the blades in order to set the proper height. Hope this is a clear enough explanation. Good Luck!
@@daveswoodshop782 Thanks a bunch for taking the time to give me a detailed explanation! Makes perfect sense! Now I'm even more anxious for my Oneway jig to arrive!!
@@daveswoodshop782 Hi! ... Just HAD to follow up! .... Got my OneWay and you were SO right!! This thing ROCKS!! Besides setting the tables and the blades, it makes setting the fence square easy too! ... The only thing that didn't work for me was setting the knives 0.002 over the table ... Got snipe every time .. set the knives to zero and got the most beautiful boards ever passed over my jointer! ... Thanks again for the help!
Would the oneway multi-guage still be the appropriate tool if a cutter head does not have jack screws? I have an industrial quality grizzly and I'm surprised that it doesn't have the jack screws.
If you don't have jack screws the accepted method of setting the blades is the use of a setting jig that rests on the table and has magnets that hold the blade at the proper height relative to that table. I really don't know how accurate this method is but I believe the One Way Jig would be useful in confirming the blades are set properly as well as assisting with making fine adjustments.
The height of the cutter head in relation to the outfeed table is not important. It is the height of the blades in relation to the outfeed table that is critical. As I mention at 6:45 in the video, in practice the blades should be about .0002 of an inch above the outfeed table. With that said you don't want the blades protruding too far out of the cutter head. I start by completely seating the jack screws. Then I back them out 1 full turn. Now I drop in the blades and bring them to the proper height.
@@daveswoodshop782 Dave I’m curious too as my planer is supposed to have 1.1mm or 43thou clearance between the outfeed table edge and the cutterhead across the width. I’ve been thinking about how I can do this accurately with an indicator. I’m thinking maybe preload the indicator by 43thou on the outfeed, push it over the edge and adjust the table until it is contacting the cutterhead, showing 0.
what are using to cover all ur machines and why are u covering them??? is it to stop rust and ifso does it work??? and does it need to seal around the machine or just sit on top over machine??? please get back to me thanks
+jp morso They are oversized plastic bags that I purchased at Home Depot. They serve 2 purposes. Firstly it keeps the dust off all of my machines. This certainly will extend their lifespan as well as keeping them looking good. Secondly I do it to prevent rust just as you asked. I live in the North East which can be quite humid at times. It absolutely works. Never had a spot of rust on any of my tools. I also put a coat of wax on all cast surfaces at least a couple times a year. A little prevention goes a long way in maintaining tools.
This video helps a lot for setting up knives, but I found this video looking for more info on setting up an entire table not just knives. You should retitle the video. Also you should consider linking the tool you used. As I am now searching for that tool.
Very well explained...but I came here to learn how to set up/align my jointer tables. You might want to consider changing your video title to "How to Set Up Jointer Knives". Just a thought...
Thank you
As you can see! I liked the video!
First video of yours i watched. Great to have ran into you at AC Moore.
Was great seeing you as well. Em says hi. Really enjoyed seeing pics of your projects.
Great video Dave I like your explanation as to why and how. Good job! But I don't "SEE"Just kidding! (You say see a lot in the video)
I have a Delta 6 inch jointer 1996 model 37-190 when Delta still made a few good products. This thing has been flawless
Until about 6 six months ago my idiot brother in law came and leeched off of us, while I was away. He used my jointer as his personal coffee cup holder while he abused my other tools that I could not lock up. He also used the out feed of the jointer as his anvil. After he was run off via shot gun and the Sherif. When I returned I did spend some time cleaning and removing the coffee cup stains and who knows what other stains. It looks nice now. 400 grit sand paper and wD-40 and then Johnson's paste wax? Today I needed to square up some lumber, when I ran my stock over the cutters the out feed table was stopping the stock from moving forward. Up till now it was perfect. Due to the anvil action I am pretty sure. The gibs have never been moved from day one set from the factory. Today I had to move them because the out feed table would not move. I finally got the the table to move.
Next I need to check the blade height. That will be easy thanks to you. Thank you for taking the time to post this video.
Not all jointers have a Jack screw but good informative video.
Getting the dyobbb done
Loved the video! I just ordered a Oneway! ... I have a question though, How do you determine the height of the outfeed table before using the gauge to align the knives? (both my infeed and outfeed tables are adjustable) ... Thanks for your help ... I'm a noob, have had my (used) jointer 3 days.
Simplest thing to do is back the jack screws out a couple of turns. Place the OneWay jig on the outfield table. Set a blade at top dead center (highest point). Now raise or lower the table until the gauge on the jig zeros out. This will be a good height for your outfeed table. Now you have some play to move the blades either up or down in order to set the proper height. If you were to start the whole process with the jack screws tightened all the way down, then zero out the gauge on the outfield table you will only be able to adjust the blades in one direction, up. By starting with the jack screws backed out a little you give yourself the ability to both raise and lower the blades in order to set the proper height. Hope this is a clear enough explanation. Good Luck!
@@daveswoodshop782 Thanks a bunch for taking the time to give me a detailed explanation! Makes perfect sense! Now I'm even more anxious for my Oneway jig to arrive!!
You won't regret it. It makes setup so much easier and much more accurate.
@@daveswoodshop782 Hi! ... Just HAD to follow up! .... Got my OneWay and you were SO right!! This thing ROCKS!! Besides setting the tables and the blades, it makes setting the fence square easy too! ... The only thing that didn't work for me was setting the knives 0.002 over the table ... Got snipe every time .. set the knives to zero and got the most beautiful boards ever passed over my jointer! ... Thanks again for the help!
So glad it worked out for you. It is a little pricey but worth every penny when you factor in how much time and frustration it saves you.
Question?? you mixed up blade markings 3 went into number 2??
Good catch! this is what happens when you talk and do something at the same time. It is not such a big deal when all components are relatively new.
Would the oneway multi-guage still be the appropriate tool if a cutter head does not have jack screws? I have an industrial quality grizzly and I'm surprised that it doesn't have the jack screws.
If you don't have jack screws the accepted method of setting the blades is the use of a setting jig that rests on the table and has magnets that hold the blade at the proper height relative to that table. I really don't know how accurate this method is but I believe the One Way Jig would be useful in confirming the blades are set properly as well as assisting with making fine adjustments.
@@daveswoodshop782 thanks alot for the fast reply. That's some good advice. Thanks.
what should be the height of the knife holder (cutter head)in relation to the outfeed table. tanks
The height of the cutter head in relation to the outfeed table is not important. It is the height of the blades in relation to the outfeed table that is critical. As I mention at 6:45 in the video, in practice the blades should be about .0002 of an inch above the outfeed table. With that said you don't want the blades protruding too far out of the cutter head. I start by completely seating the jack screws. Then I back them out 1 full turn. Now I drop in the blades and bring them to the proper height.
thanks for your answer I am very grateful, now I can calibrate my old 6 "craftsman that I rebuilt.@@daveswoodshop782
@@daveswoodshop782 Dave I’m curious too as my planer is supposed to have 1.1mm or 43thou clearance between the outfeed table edge and the cutterhead across the width. I’ve been thinking about how I can do this accurately with an indicator.
I’m thinking maybe preload the indicator by 43thou on the outfeed, push it over the edge and adjust the table until it is contacting the cutterhead, showing 0.
what are using to cover all ur machines and why are u covering them??? is it to stop rust and ifso does it work??? and does it need to seal around the machine or just sit on top over machine??? please get back to me thanks
+jp morso They are oversized plastic bags that I purchased at Home Depot. They serve 2 purposes. Firstly it keeps the dust off all of my machines. This certainly will extend their lifespan as well as keeping them looking good. Secondly I do it to prevent rust just as you asked. I live in the North East which can be quite humid at times. It absolutely works. Never had a spot of rust on any of my tools. I also put a coat of wax on all cast surfaces at least a couple times a year. A little prevention goes a long way in maintaining tools.