I've been using the chalk method for over 15 years. Your explanation is dead on! My only suggestion is to apply the chalk at 3 different places around the tread. Tires are often not exactly round, so checking it at several locations can even things out. People don't seem to realize that one size of tire can be used on many different vehicles that can weigh several hundreds of pounds different from one another. The chalk method can dial in the exact pressure you need for your application.
Right. And even going from 29.5 tires to 30.5 for the Cherokee Trailhawk (you can go to 32 with minor mods) if you look at the load tables you'll see that 31 PSI will hold the same weight in a 265 65 17 as a 245 65 17 holds with 36 psi. 37 is REALLY high for the Wrangler IMHO. It seems like every year tire pressures go up higher and higher (likely for fuel economy reasons). I would say that a 37 with 30 PSI will hold very substantial loads, probably still far beyond the stock tires. A load table might even say 22 is ok . Maybe for off road is do that .... but it gets to a point where even though you can hold the load , it's too "squishy" All these things are good references but still I feel all roads lead back to chalk. I'll check it out tomorrow. Pretty sure I'll chalk between 30 and 33 psi.
Wow. What a difference. I just bought a used 2016 jeep with 34s from a dealer. They had 44psi in the rear 39psi in the front. Dropped everything to 33psi. I didn’t finish because it got dark but I went for a ride… it’s like a completely different vehicle. Way way better ride.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Make sure you check the manufacture tire pressure ranges to know that you are good for the pressure… And always air to the optimum pressure if towing..
It is really nice to finally see someone giving some good advice about tires and air-pressure. I spent 20+ years trying to educate people while working in the tire industry and it was hard due to all of the misinformation being fed to the public by the chain corporate stores and other 'so-called' experts. The chalk test is a good way to tell how much air you need, yet there is a better way, though it can only be done when the tires are new. Door stickers lie, the manufacturer wants your money, they dont care how they wear or handle after you buy them. When I would sell someone a new set of tires I would have them drive normally for 100 miles then we'd have them come back. I'd look at the little nipples on the tread and adjust them the same way you do in your test. The big difference between this and the chalk test is the 100 mile test would also take into consideration driving style, hauling stuff from the grocery store and was an overall average for the tires. I do thank you for letting the public know a good way to test their own vehicle, yes it is accurate enough. But.... (yes you probably saw it coming), I do have to say you also broke one of the most important general rules of tire mounting/sizing with your 12.50's on a 7.5 inch wheel. With that set up you will most likely get worse tracking and you also have to set the air pressure artificially low, which can lead to issues of its own. Optimal wheel width for any tire is the same as the tread width. This is true whether it is a 155/80R13 or a 44 gumbo mudder or even a 11R24.5 truck tire. One way to actually get really close is to take the section width, 12.50 in your case with your 37's and subtract 2.5 inches and those tires will be happiest, give you the best wear, economy, ride and handling they will ever give. Manufacturers are after your money so they tell you those 37's can go on a 7.5 inch wheel so they can sell them to all the new Wrangler owners, they dont give a flying rats patootie how they perform after they have your money. BFG has been doing this since they were building 10-15's. One weird caveat of the wider wheel as well is that the same tire will need less air than it does on a narrow wheel. I use to run 6psi in my 33x12.50R15's on my little old CJ-5 on 10 inch wheels, yet a friend using 8 inch wheels had to run 10-12 psi. This is a rare extreme example. You may get decent handling and such with a wheel that is too wide or narrow, but it would be better with the proper width wheel. Tread wear will be one that most everyone would see if they compared two vehicles (which I have, the treadwear can be significantly lowered with a narrow wheel, due to the tire running a bit warmer than it would on a wider wheel because it has to flex more to flatten against the road, and temperature is a significant factor in treadlife.
Manufacturers do relentless testing to get the best MPG and towing and ride comfort. They are not out to get your money as they have no say in what tires you buy next. If you go up in size or ply then yes i would do this chalk test.
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 love hearing that! That’s the difference between going by spec versus going by visible confirmation… Not all wheels and tires are created equal and thus no one pressure is correct, some pressures are better than others and it’s up to your discretion to decide what pressure works for you.. the chalk test just confirms that you’re not too much and not to under inflated
Thanks for this tip/ trick , just put a new set of BF KO2 on my jeep TJ . checked my tire pressure after watching this video and found that tire company did not have balanced tire pressure between tires ranging from 33 to 38 psi . Lesson - Just do not take their word the tire pressures are correct . At any rate I did a chalk test and my tires seem good at 33 psi and the jeep rides smoother . I plan to do a second test to fine tune when the weather is better .
😉 thanks for the reply Richard! Those tires are good between 25 and 50 psi on the highway, but Ideally between 30 and your door jamb pressure.. I chalk between 28 & 30 psi.. as long as your checking your base pressure when cold you’re fine.. obviously cold snaps will lower the pressure slightly, but it will warm and increase as you drive. Remember to put them to optimum pressure for your load when/if you’re towing..🤙🏼
Thanks for the video Please remember you want to do this with hot tires. If you do it at cold, you'll then air down about 10% as the tire pressure goes up during operation.
The only critique I have is a minor one, just something people tend to do a lot in videos that I find annoying; the video title told us what the topic was-- there was no need to spend the first two minutes or so "teasing" us with the infomercial-style "would you like to know...?" and then revealing the chalk as if we didn't already know it was coming. Otherwise, nicely done. I've known about this for years. Even mentioned it recently in a comment elsewhere. But this is the first video I've seen on it.
Very cool, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. yes, the prolonged portion is a bit dramatic. I’m trying to make more simple and concise videos in future. I just want even the laymens to understand.
@@GatorOverland you do a fine job. I look forward to more videos. I'm a fellow Texan, thinking about setting up my truck for overlanding. But many other things to deal with before that.
Always good to hear from a neighbor.. 🤝... I’m from the Beaumont area... feel free to contact me via Facebook, insta, or email.. I’d be happy to share camp locations and info with you. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Hawkijon@aol.com
There is also a mathematical equation for GVWR and over sized tires. I run 25-27, 35 12:50 18. On 18 x 10 wheels. Toyo AT. 40k and will have no problem hitting 65k. I also rotate about every 3k miles. Thanks for video.
Yes & no. The 37 PSI from the factory would be more useful for a wider range of load. Your method is only good for when your car is unloaded. Another thing you miss is not every tire tread are designed to be flat across. Secondly a lower PSI will soften your sidewall which will affect your cornering stability. Your method work best when the tires that you choose has a flat tread from shoulder to shoulder & when you're a slow driver. But I could be wrong. Great content.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You make some great points, and you are correct, this concept isn’t for everyone and is only meant as a reference. It’s to your discretion what pressure you use. My video is to reference for daily driving… Tire pressures should always be inflated to match your vehicles weight or load.
Very good. But did you take into account what the role dynamics of speed would play in the test? I'm thinking at 65 mph, the center of the tire may bulge out from the centrifugal forces. I suppose it may be a moot point as the handling characteristics would be the litmus test, however subjective that might be...
Bad ass!! You bet! I’m actually in the process of doing a 50k mile (actually 56k mile) review on my BFG KO2 all terrains.. i rolled 28-32psi and rotated every 5000 miles.. should be a pretty cool video. I’ll show everywhere the tires have taken us. 🤝
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. I guess not everyone finds it helpful or interesting.. It’d help me learn to turn them thumbs up for future videos if they explained why 😂🤷🏼♂️
Had a Ford dealership sell me a car once, assured me its been through a 100point inspection. 1 tire was 17psi, another about 22psi and two others under 15psi. Had all the gunk in the radiator, was 99% blockage.
@@GatorOverland Same dealership had a desk worker back the car into the garage, hit a pole on the way in. Said the bumper was always like that :P I thought that was the last of it, I found some papers they had sent 6 years later, showing they would be selling all of my personal information, to private and 3rd party individuals. No wonder I had Identity theft at 19 when I only used cash everywhere I went.
This is actually very helpful. Someone told me about how to check ur tires are well inflated. I got a 2015 lifted Scion xB with 215/70/16 toyo open country A/T III. So this will definitely be a very simple handy tool. Thanks for the tip 🙏🏼🙏🏼
tirepressure.com/35x12-50r17-tire-pressure Look at the load/inflation chart and inflate your tire according to your load. I agree, 80 is unnecessary for most driving conditions, but it could be necessary if you’re towing. And.
Awesome video & tips man, thank you! 1st time Jeep owner here! I’ve wanted a Jeep ever since I was a kid & finally got my 2012 JKU ABOUT 2.5 weeks ago! I’m still feeling/figuring things out. It felt to me that the steering could be a bit loose feeling or jerky I don’t know exactly how to describe it, as well as seeming to pull to the right a little bit. I assumed at 1st that it probably needed an alignment since it hasn’t had state inspection in MD yet (where they do more stringent 1 & done type of inspections as oppose to more lenient WV yearly inspections, where I bought it & it still had the temp tags from) but when I checked tire pressure to make sure I didn’t have a leak (though no visible flats), I found that both right tires had 35psi & both left were had 37psi. So I just now evened them all @ 35 & am getting ready to see how much if any of a difference only 2psi might make to cause the steering feeling & pulling right like it may if they were significantly more flat on the right. Strange thing is you’d think I need to come down to say 30psi all around but according to what you were saying in chalk test (unless I misunderstood), if the west is on outside then I need to increase psi? So mine are more worn on outside then center of the tires so I’m confused what could be going on with them? Door reccomends 35psi stock & I currently have the stock size GoodYear Wranglers on it, that it came with from the used dealership. (which I think is the tire what they come with from the factory)... anyway I guess what I’m asking is yours & other people’s thoughts on what my issue might be. Also I’m having a hell of a time adjusting my headlights. It’s like I can’t get them even close to correct. It’s either right one pointed 45° outward & 45° upward toward the tops of trees🤦🏽♂️ & left is pointed downward where the right should be pointed. Or they both are pointed 45° outward & I’m blinding with my left. Seems like I should be able to do better without having to pay someone I can usually perform most basic vehicle repairs installs etc. I even went & bought those dumb sylvanianZXEs cuz I thought @ 1st that I just couldn’t see cuz the dim basic Bulbs it came with. Waste of $60 cuz for $$50 more could have got LED with lens & sometimes find with LED Fog lights on Amazon for $100-$120 which I’ve never had LED Fog lights so not sure if you have to aim them also or if they already aimed correctly... so, I’m worried about that too being a waste if I then can’t aim them.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. If your wear is on the outside of the tire you are under inflated.. if you are wearing on the middle of the tire you are over inflated.. you want even contact.. the door jamb is optimum pressure for your factory sized tires.. you should probably test between 32-35 psi to see the contact.. as far as your headlights you may need to UA-cam JK specific headlight adjustment
This is such a perfect video. I’m glad it was recommended because i would have never known this, or even thought about it. Ive told so many people about this test. I know tires are expensive, and the knowledge to extend their life is simply invaluable. Thanks man.
@@GatorOverland most certainly. I cant wait to get BFGs newest mud tire, the KM3. Im gonna be a nut case and put them on my 2018 civic hatchback. I already have a set of 15 inch wheels and because im apparently lucky, the smallest size they make for that tire is the one that should fit in my 30 inch fender, being a 27 inch tire. The day i get those, tho, is the day i also buy some chalk. Im just hoping i didnt get too big of an offset for my wheels and i need to cut stuff up. Ill probably get different rims before that 😂 sorry for being so talkative, its just that new fitment is exciting.
I have to see this!!!! For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
Thanks for mentioning the importance of aiming headlights. Today's vehicle lighting engineers clearly never travel in areas where there are no street lights, otherwise they would realize these crazy bright new headlights are doing more harm than good. sincerely- someone who lives on a winding country road.
You bet! They are a great tire, but tire pressure is crucial for proper wear and performance of that tire. They are surprisingly quiet on the highway. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
Understood . I actually have gone down to 28psi and it was minimal if any difference than 30psi.. my buddy runs 25psi in his 37’s on the same wheel for added comfort but results in lower mpg.. his seem to be wearing fine at that psi, but I wouldn’t go lower than that for daily driving
Thanks for the kind comment. In other videos I have a tendency of being long winded with extra detail. BUT.. for someone out there it’s just the right amount of info the need to gain understanding and/or get the job done. I should have some new content out soon. What rig are your running?
Subjective. I found it perfect, but maybe I'm slower. But I know no one who gets a degree in a brief visit to the classroom. Also, you do know you can speed up playback if your brain is above average, right?
Thanks for the video! I have not been able to get a straight answer at any tire company as to how to find out the correct pressure on all-terrain tires. Each one of them seem to just guess.
Another thing to consider depending on vehicle, wheel and tire size. Because of the weight distribution from front to back and caster setting (how much the front wheels lean when turned). For example the tires on my old truck likes 42psi in the front and 32 in the back for even wear. I don't bother rotating them because they wear even at that psi.
Absolutely it will change per vehicle and other variables associated with weight and tire and wheel… This is just a way to see what’s going on and adjust as you see fit
@@GatorOverland something I ment to highlight and kinda got side tracked lol on most vehicles the front wheels aren't perfectly straight up and lean even more when turning so tends to wear more on the shoulders of the tire. That's why I run more psi in the front. On the back if you have a straight axle you may want to run less than level than what the test shows because the center of the tire gets taller at highway speeds. I would assume vehicles with independent rear suspension might like similar to front air pressure.
Very true. Camber will definitely have some effects on what tire pressure you run. With the chalk you can visualize it’s contact patch and inflate to your discretion
Awesome video, new tire guy learning and researching this stuff. Crazy how stock you were given seventeen high! Such a trip! definitely good info for me to pass on to customers!
The lowest road pressure I ever needed for a tire to have full width contract are the TRXUS STS. 20psi. When I ran at 30, the middle wore out way too fast. Lost wet traction too. Switched to TRUX MT after that.
I run mine at 25 to 27 psi now… I left it at 30 for the video because it was acceptable for the chalk test… But not everybody would want to invest in a programmer to drop TPMS threshold below the factory setting
Excellent presentation But… Drive your vehicle for about 5 min first to warn tires up to operating temp before adjusting. If you don’t..and do it cold ..as you warm up it will expand and show center tire wear as opposed to even.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… it’s totally to your discretion. It is advised on many vetted outlets to adjust tire pressure as “cold”/ambient temp or 4hours after driving. Tire pressure typically increases 1 psi per 10deg increase in tire temp.
I think the pressure on the door, is for factory mpg test and safe to carry max load. But I should point out that, while driving, the weight will transfer, so some situations the tire will carry more load than in the test, like higher speed cornering, breaking... so I would suggest add at least 2-3 psi after a perfect test, and once have heavy load or max load, back to the psi on the door if stock tires/ use inflation table for new size tires . ✌🏻Jeep wave here~
Good vid. My personal rule of thumb is this - When in doubt, 5 lbs under recommended psi... just in case. It's always worked for me. I'm on KO2s (35"x12.5x17r)
@@GatorOverland I realize it's probably not the Best "go-to" when setting All-Terrain tires for 75%Street / 25% medium grade offroad... but So Far So Good.🤘
@@GatorOverland that sounds good to me! I'm doing 35 psi in the front and 31 for the guys in the back for extra grab. They're on my 2018 Silverado 1500 Z71. Is that OK or whaddaya think?
Absolutely… Happy to help.. just make sure you do it when they’re cold, and or sitting for 2 to 4 hours before adjusting. You’ll also want to double check your tire manufactures load to inflation ratings to make sure it’s adequate for the loads of your vehicle and or towing… Obviously you want to be running optimum pressure if you’re towing🤘🏼
Need to do this test on my duratracs. Going to sound crazy, but I have my dura tracks at almost 50 psi, I used to have my old nitto trail grapplers at 30 psi and the duratracs ride smoother.
The chalk test should prove the ideal pressure. Depending on the tire size and ply , wheel size and width, the pressure variable could be vast between tire brands. I know the duratrac are known for being stiff high pressure tire in some configurations.
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
Thanks for the great video...very glad I watched it, as all the "how-to's" I read online led me to believe I needed to look at the chalk mark left behind on the road by the tire, not on the tire itself. That would have been a problem. ;0)
The door sticker is for stock size tires only... changing tires negates the sticker. Your stock tires had 47pssi because they were filled to 37psi on a cold day and when they warm up the air expands.
Exactly. I agree the tire pressure increases with heat or increase in ambient temperature, but not 10°… My tires commonly increase 3°-5 degree on the highway from friction. They overfill them from the factory… Commonly 40+ psi.. it’s just something to be aware of.
@@GatorOverland They filled them that high so they wouldn't be flat by the time the car hauler dropped them off at the dealer. The leakiest tire you will ever find (without some puncture) is a new tire. beads are not fully seated until the tire warms up for a bit.
Even for regular sized ties, adjusting the pressure for the load improves the ride. On my RAM 2500 I use the same tires that would be specified for a RAM 1500. This allows mw to lower the pressure down to safe pressures for the light duty tires without fear of rim leaks. If I want to carry up to 1000 lbs. I inflate the tires to their maximum pressure which is still be well below the heavy duty tires. When I put the camper on the truck I replace the wheels with ones with load range E tires to handle the extra 2000 lbs.
Yes, that’s correct.. sometimes when I do videos the brain says what it wants to say and when I see it back I realize it, hoping no one notices. But in this case, thankfully it’s just a valve cap error. You’re the first person point that out since posting years ago.. try find where I have my shirt on inside out because I put it on when it was dark.
I’m actually watching this for the first time because I just got my 37s on the 4xE. They feel a tiny bit out of balance on the highway and feels like the alignment is slightly off, even though nothing else changed.
Thats’s very possible.. my alignment was 7/32 toe from factory.. 0-3/32” is max.. drove incredible after the tow was adjusted .. I have 2.75” lift with geometry relocation brackets that put me at the ideal 6.5deg caster.. anything less than 5deg needs attention with the bracket Or adjustable lower control arms. I track like a cloud on a set of rails.. let me know if you have any questions
Regarding gearing. In my 2010 4dr Rubicon, I went from the stock 32 to 37x12.5, tears from 4.10 to 5.13. Revs just a little higher than stock. Got the same mpg highway as bone stock despite replacing all the plastic with steel and adding 3/16" engine to gas tank six plate kit. Between 500-700 pounds heavier than stock.
That is the perfect Regear for a JK and 37 ‘s… I have a few friends that went 488 and the performance is lacking a little bit by comparison… These new eight speed automatic transmissions are outstanding for maintaining the proper RPM… 488 would be ideal for daily driving… 513 would be ideal for towing and a bit more low end torque off road
That's a great test for low speeds. However, I suspect that at highway speeds where heat cause tire pressure increases and changes the tire shape might nullify the low speed results. Just a thought... Beautiful Jeep BTW!
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. It’s relative throughout the range of tire temp. If you’re too high to begin with, then you will be too high after they heat up, and potentially over pressured. This test is a reference for tire pressure, and up to the discretion of the user to determine. I’m at 48k with the tires seen in the video and wearing perfectly with no abnormal wearing. I range between 30 & 35psi on the highway.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the update! 48K-- That's good to know. On my old Ranger, I've been running 35-psi in Duratracks and think I might drop down to 30. Looking forward to trying the chalk test, as it feels like I'm on the over inflated side with 35. My tire size is quite a bit smaller (235/75/15) so I don't expect a super plush ride, just looking to get the most life out of the tires~
That’s what it’s all about in the end, finding a happy medium for comfort and tire life. These tires cost too much to not pay attention to. My BFG’s are a 50k tire and I’m confident I’ll get a good 55k out then with safe room to spare. I rotate religiously at 5000miles. Then test is the same but, vehicle weight, tire size, tire ratings (plus), wheel width, temperature, are all variables that effect tire pressure to patch contact.. your tire on a 8” wide wheel at 30psi will have a different contact patch than a 7.5” wheel at 30psi.. just use your judgement.. like you said, the tire heats up and the pressure increase.. test cold and double check the warm contact patch as well.. You should google your tire load/pressure rating to know your range of pressure and what the load capacity is for that pressure.
I tried this method of determining proper tire pressure for my car, a Honda Accord. The sticker on the driver’s door pillar calls for 32psi. I chalked and ran 25, chalked and ran 35, chalked and ran 30. The amount of chalk remaining in the shoulders was exactly the same. I guess that’s why I see this “chalk method” demonstrated on UA-cam mostly with Jeeps and light trucks, not on sedans or coupes
It’s merely a reference, not a concrete guideline… If you’re running the same size tires that the car manufacturer recommends then there’s no need to talk to ask other than your understanding of how much tire is touching the ground
Am I the only one who noticed how nice a finish those tires had 🤙 Would love to know the dressing you used. I’m trying Adam’s graphite now and it seems pretty matte but would love to k ow what you use😊
I don't use any shine either, (Simple Green, LA's totally awesome yellow degreaser, or Wesley's Bleche White) just creates more build up and living in SoCal, almost every tire I've seen with lots of shine are more dry rotted than just clean tires.
You want nice tires and want them to stay nice. Clean them very well with degreaser. Use Chemical Guys tire shine. Let it dry well before driving the car. Give them a second coat if you want. Let it dry well. Then go over the tire with a clean microfibre cloth to kinda buff that finish. Once your done. Spray over that with hairspray. The cheapest one you can find. I buy it at the dollar store for $3 a can. Do this on a clam day. Wind is your enemy here. Put it on as if you were using spray paint…a few light coats dries almost instantly. After application do not rub or touch. Let it dry and your done. Should last indefinitely. When you wash the car don’t use harsh soap on the rubber and it won’t wash off either. It’s basically lacquer and will eventually wear off. Just don’t overspray onto the paint. Hairspray dries almost instantly so you might use the whole can depending on your technique. Don’t get too close or it will run and not too far or you’ll miss the rubber. My best advice is to practice on a tire other than the ones on your car to perfect the process. Good luck!
Very helpfull, thank you. You touched very briefly on the subject of adjusting the Tire Pressure Monitor System in the Jeep to a different threshold. I just upgraded my stock JL tires to 33 inch tires and the shop has them set at 38 psi. I want to do the chalk test, but I am afraid that the TPMS system will complain if I set it any lower than the factory specs, how does one reset those thresholds?
Great question! The pressure sensor threshold starts “low tire” notification @29 psi and will not reset until you re-inflate to 37 psi.. you will be fine down to 30-32 psi, but if you have a cold snap it could potentially allow the pressure to go below the 29psi threshold.. I use the ECRI module/app and have accounted for my tire size increase to 37 and lowered my threshold to 25psi.. I run my 37’s at 28-30psi.. ecri.app/products/ecri-wireless-vehicle-calibration-device Let me know if you have any more questions
This is great information and I run Cooper 295/70/17 which says max PSi is 80 and seeing that most posts here are in the 30 PSI range, is it odd to be so far off from the Cooper max of 80 PSI?
you have to remember that the tires are not based what vehicle they go on, but rather the capability of load at a certain pressure… You should always inflate according to your load… If you are not hauling or driving I heavy vehicle, Then the maximum tire pressure should be what is rated on the door jamb as a reference, from there you can decrease the pressure to your comfort or as you see preferable contact with the road. More than likely an 80 psi rated tire is a load range E, which is ideal for 3/4 ton and 1 ton vehicles And will have an outstanding load rating over range C and range D by comparison.
Absolutely.. you should always fill your tires to the optimum pressure of your load.. this is for Normal driving.. As long as the pressure you fill to is capable of the load you’re doing you will be fine.. Google your tire to load to pressure ratings for the manufacture.. my 37’s at 25psi are rated for 2150lbs.. my truck is 5000lbs, my tire setting is more than sufficient..but, I’d I was to pull a load, I would inflate to a safe pressure for the load.
Was an auto tech. 17 years & never heard of this. I always filled my tires to the recommended max for increased fuel economy. I’m just curious on how this text would change if done under hi speed. I assume the center might expand out due to centrifugal forces which means letting even more air out?
This is more or less a convenient method to find proper tire wear when you are unsure of what pressure to run after installing aftermarket wheels or tires… Running at the max pressure is not good in some cases because the tire increases in pressure as they heat up which could put it over the max pressure writing… running the manufactured specified pressure on the door jam is only relevant to the stock configuration. Doing a chalk test just confirms your pattern.. it’s the drivers discretion on how much or a little further pattern preference.. yes, centrifugal force does play into the game of pressure, but that is a variable that is constantly changing.
It’s all to your general discretion… Every tire size performs differently per inflation, and on top of that the vehicle weight will have a role in it as well. For hardpacked sand and gravel trails I typically start out about 10 psi below my normal street pressure… For rocks, mud and deep snow I typically go just above single digit psi, 10-15.. in the end it’s what you’re comfortable with for the conditions
I meant to say hardpacked sand. As for slightly rutted roads, if it’s convenient enough to engage 4x4 it should be sufficient, but if it’s more that just a few ruts, half your normal pressure you’d be a good pressure for a bigger footprint.
You bet man! Just make sure you check your tire mfg. inflation/load chart so you know your min and max inflation is within whatever your load capabilities are, especially if you’re towing. My BFG’s are good between 25-50 psi. I don’t tow, so I run them at 28-30psi and the chalk test proves worthy.. 🤘🏼
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. out of 100k views I expect a few to balk… most comment on unrelated content or statements.. all welcomed.. 😂🤝
I had an "84" Ford Bronco 2 with a custom front and rear suspension and narrowed Dana 60's on 35 BFG MT's. Getting any more than 15 thousand miles out of a set without them turning into octagons or worse. Once I started chalking 23 psi. Rear and 27 in the front. It was 24 until the 2.8 was replaced with a 351 Windsor and a C6 with a NP205. 20,000 miles and still had enough tread to regroove for some cool sand tires.
When my jeep yj was basically stock on 31's 23psi front & 21psi rear was even wear. Sao and 35's. Well they just sit at 7psi now on the trailer.. it happens
Yes, just at the edge of the tread where it breaks over and turns from lug to side wall.. contacting up to that break over point is the test.. riding on the middle portion of your tread is not ideal unless your running milestar Patagonia’s
Awesome informative video! Thanks for taking the time to do these for all of us. I was wondering your thoughts on running the stock rims on the 37x12.50s. To my knowledge, most tire manufacturers do not recommend running that wide of a tire on the stock wheel due to the 8 inch width, and recommend at least a 9 inch width. IMHO, one inch is just one inch and I think it should be fine, but I was wondering how your experience has been with the tire wear on the 37s and stock rims. Doing the chalk test im sure helps the wear a lot. Just curious what your opinion was on that. And sorry if you've addressed this in a prior video, Im still going through them all! Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Different tire manufacturer specified different minimum wheel widths… BFG minimum is seven. Five, so everything is good… BFG tends to run a bit smaller than other brands… My tire measures 35.5 at 30 psi… I have about 35,000 miles on mine now and wearing great… Still very quiet on the highway and no scalping or premature where from being on a less than wide wheel, mostly due to the proper tire pressure.. I run 27 to 30 psi, and off-road between 10 and 15psi.. wide tire with a narrow wheel is known as a poor man beadlock..
@@GatorOverland awesome to hear. I didn’t know bfg’s minimum was 7.5! That’s good news to me moving forward. Thanks for the response! Love the channel man
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. The info you have provided may work for some folks/vehicle applications, but I wouldn’t advise that max inflation approach. However I do agree the tire mfg pressure/inflation chart should be referred to for determining an allowable range for normal driving and/or load
Great instructional video. I am really surprised the unloaded diameter is so small. The spec says they measure 36.5”. Curious on the choice of stock rims. The BFG site says minimum rim width of 8.5” not 7.5”. Also although I like keeping the rim offset the same for better steering, don’t you end up with some contact when turning tight due to the extra diameter and width?
Yes, the mfg height is based on the widest wheel at max pressure.. every variable will change the final height Pressure, weight, wheel width, temp BFG’s are rates for 7.5 min www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2
I Did The Stock Tire Pressure Vs Stock Tire Load Index. Then Referenced The Load Rating Across What It Would Be For My New Tires Load Index To Find The Correct PSI. I Do Want To Test This Chalk Method On It And See How It Does Becasue My Tires Are Much Wider Than Stock.
Width, height, ply type, load rating, style of tire, temp, actual load.. all are a variable of the tire pressure.. as soon as you change one or a few of this variables you potentially deviate from the mfg suggested designed for the tires that come as stock. Always adjust your tires when they are cold/ambient temp or rested for 3-4hrs
Id say it’s more precautionary to keep them in the clear liability wise, other times it’s to insure suspension components are in the clear at all times.
If I go aftermarket wheels, I’m going MOPAR performance or AEV.. they know their jeeps and are designed to work best without going too far out of factory offset specs
Glad you mentioned headlights. I was a jeep owner, beginning to hate jeeps due to their headlights. Do the jeep community a favor, adjust your head lights and don’t drive with off-road or fog lights on.
Great video. What tires did you go with? I'm debating between 35 and 37s. How tall is your gladiator with the mopar lift and 37s. I would like my gladiator to still fit in my garage lol. Thanks!
That is at Hidden Falls Adventure park in Marble Falls, Texas in the heart of the hill country (near Austin). I’m not sure where you’re from but It’s worth a scratch or two if you ever make it out that way. www.hiddenfallsadventurepark.com/
You bet! You should definitely refer to the tire mfg load inflation chart but for most vehicles and most driving conditions, this is a simple and effective option to visually see what your tire is doing on the road.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the headlight adjustment pitch. So many folks neglect this
Absolutely! I even adjust mine when towing or loaded with overland gear.. too easy not to do to save opposing traffic some headache or danger
I've been using the chalk method for over 15 years. Your explanation is dead on! My only suggestion is to apply the chalk at 3 different places around the tread. Tires are often not exactly round, so checking it at several locations can even things out.
People don't seem to realize that one size of tire can be used on many different vehicles that can weigh several hundreds of pounds different from one another. The chalk method can dial in the exact pressure you need for your application.
Exactly! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Right. And even going from 29.5 tires to 30.5 for the Cherokee Trailhawk (you can go to 32 with minor mods) if you look at the load tables you'll see that 31 PSI will hold the same weight in a 265 65 17 as a 245 65 17 holds with 36 psi.
37 is REALLY high for the Wrangler IMHO.
It seems like every year tire pressures go up higher and higher (likely for fuel economy reasons).
I would say that a 37 with 30 PSI will hold very substantial loads, probably still far beyond the stock tires. A load table might even say 22 is ok . Maybe for off road is do that .... but it gets to a point where even though you can hold the load , it's too "squishy"
All these things are good references but still I feel all roads lead back to chalk.
I'll check it out tomorrow. Pretty sure I'll chalk between 30 and 33 psi.
Great detail. Left sitting here wondering how I haven’t heard of this all these years. 👍🏼
😉… pay it forward.. it makes all the difference
Wow. What a difference. I just bought a used 2016 jeep with 34s from a dealer. They had 44psi in the rear 39psi in the front. Dropped everything to 33psi. I didn’t finish because it got dark but I went for a ride… it’s like a completely different vehicle. Way way better ride.
That’s what it’s all about… Thanks for the follow up
That's the most informative thing i've seen in a while! going to use that trick for ALL of my cars.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Make sure you check the manufacture tire pressure ranges to know that you are good for the pressure… And always air to the optimum pressure if towing..
That was a great video. Thank you for sharing I’m going to share this video with a few friends
I appreciate that! Happy trails!
It is really nice to finally see someone giving some good advice about tires and air-pressure. I spent 20+ years trying to educate people while working in the tire industry and it was hard due to all of the misinformation being fed to the public by the chain corporate stores and other 'so-called' experts. The chalk test is a good way to tell how much air you need, yet there is a better way, though it can only be done when the tires are new. Door stickers lie, the manufacturer wants your money, they dont care how they wear or handle after you buy them. When I would sell someone a new set of tires I would have them drive normally for 100 miles then we'd have them come back. I'd look at the little nipples on the tread and adjust them the same way you do in your test. The big difference between this and the chalk test is the 100 mile test would also take into consideration driving style, hauling stuff from the grocery store and was an overall average for the tires. I do thank you for letting the public know a good way to test their own vehicle, yes it is accurate enough. But.... (yes you probably saw it coming), I do have to say you also broke one of the most important general rules of tire mounting/sizing with your 12.50's on a 7.5 inch wheel. With that set up you will most likely get worse tracking and you also have to set the air pressure artificially low, which can lead to issues of its own. Optimal wheel width for any tire is the same as the tread width. This is true whether it is a 155/80R13 or a 44 gumbo mudder or even a 11R24.5 truck tire. One way to actually get really close is to take the section width, 12.50 in your case with your 37's and subtract 2.5 inches and those tires will be happiest, give you the best wear, economy, ride and handling they will ever give. Manufacturers are after your money so they tell you those 37's can go on a 7.5 inch wheel so they can sell them to all the new Wrangler owners, they dont give a flying rats patootie how they perform after they have your money. BFG has been doing this since they were building 10-15's. One weird caveat of the wider wheel as well is that the same tire will need less air than it does on a narrow wheel. I use to run 6psi in my 33x12.50R15's on my little old CJ-5 on 10 inch wheels, yet a friend using 8 inch wheels had to run 10-12 psi. This is a rare extreme example. You may get decent handling and such with a wheel that is too wide or narrow, but it would be better with the proper width wheel. Tread wear will be one that most everyone would see if they compared two vehicles (which I have, the treadwear can be significantly lowered with a narrow wheel, due to the tire running a bit warmer than it would on a wider wheel because it has to flex more to flatten against the road, and temperature is a significant factor in treadlife.
Manufacturers do relentless testing to get the best MPG and towing and ride comfort. They are not out to get your money as they have no say in what tires you buy next. If you go up in size or ply then yes i would do this chalk test.
Totally agreed 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Can you share this with the folks at the dealership!!! They need training!! This answered my question I've been asking them for years!!! Thank you!!!
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 love hearing that! That’s the difference between going by spec versus going by visible confirmation… Not all wheels and tires are created equal and thus no one pressure is correct, some pressures are better than others and it’s up to your discretion to decide what pressure works for you.. the chalk test just confirms that you’re not too much and not to under inflated
Thanks for this tip/ trick , just put a new set of BF KO2 on my jeep TJ . checked my tire pressure after watching this video and found that tire company did not have balanced tire pressure between tires ranging from 33 to 38 psi . Lesson - Just do not take their word the tire pressures are correct . At any rate I did a chalk test and my tires seem good at 33 psi and the jeep rides smoother . I plan to do a second test to fine tune when the weather is better .
😉 thanks for the reply Richard! Those tires are good between 25 and 50 psi on the highway, but Ideally between 30 and your door jamb pressure.. I chalk between 28 & 30 psi.. as long as your checking your base pressure when cold you’re fine.. obviously cold snaps will lower the pressure slightly, but it will warm and increase as you drive. Remember to put them to optimum pressure for your load when/if you’re towing..🤙🏼
Thanks for the video
Please remember you want to do this with hot tires. If you do it at cold, you'll then air down about 10% as the tire pressure goes up during operation.
Yes, pressures should always be adjusted when cold. I currently have them set at 27psi, and they typically rise to 30-31 psi after they warm up
The only critique I have is a minor one, just something people tend to do a lot in videos that I find annoying; the video title told us what the topic was-- there was no need to spend the first two minutes or so "teasing" us with the infomercial-style "would you like to know...?" and then revealing the chalk as if we didn't already know it was coming. Otherwise, nicely done. I've known about this for years. Even mentioned it recently in a comment elsewhere. But this is the first video I've seen on it.
Very cool, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. yes, the prolonged portion is a bit dramatic. I’m trying to make more simple and concise videos in future. I just want even the laymens to understand.
@@GatorOverland you do a fine job. I look forward to more videos. I'm a fellow Texan, thinking about setting up my truck for overlanding. But many other things to deal with before that.
Always good to hear from a neighbor.. 🤝... I’m from the Beaumont area... feel free to contact me via Facebook, insta, or email.. I’d be happy to share camp locations and info with you. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
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There is also a mathematical equation for GVWR and over sized tires. I run 25-27, 35 12:50 18. On 18 x 10 wheels. Toyo AT. 40k and will have no problem hitting 65k. I also rotate about every 3k miles. Thanks for video.
Yes & no. The 37 PSI from the factory would be more useful for a wider range of load. Your method is only good for when your car is unloaded. Another thing you miss is not every tire tread are designed to be flat across. Secondly a lower PSI will soften your sidewall which will affect your cornering stability. Your method work best when the tires that you choose has a flat tread from shoulder to shoulder & when you're a slow driver. But I could be wrong. Great content.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You make some great points, and you are correct, this concept isn’t for everyone and is only meant as a reference. It’s to your discretion what pressure you use. My video is to reference for daily driving… Tire pressures should always be inflated to match your vehicles weight or load.
I have been looking for this for ever... And it was so easy. Thanks.
simple but amazing method, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. make sure to check them cold or rested for 4 hrs
Great life hack on getting the right tire pressure of diff car tires. Thank you sir this one helps a lot
You bet, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment…🤘🏼
Very good. But did you take into account what the role dynamics of speed would play in the test? I'm thinking at 65 mph, the center of the tire may bulge out from the centrifugal forces.
I suppose it may be a moot point as the handling characteristics would be the litmus test, however subjective that might be...
Just picked up my 2023 extreme recon today. Tires are at 40. Way to hard. Thank you for the info I’ll be doing chalk test tomorrow
Bad ass!! You bet! I’m actually in the process of doing a 50k mile (actually 56k mile) review on my BFG KO2 all terrains.. i rolled 28-32psi and rotated every 5000 miles.. should be a pretty cool video. I’ll show everywhere the tires have taken us. 🤝
Very helpful information!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting
No thumbs down! Because it was a excellent video!
Thumbs up or down, i appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I hope you learned something in the least. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Of course there would be 9 thumbs down probably just cause of your comment
You have me wondering now, Which comment would that be?
@@GatorOverland nice content .. i dont see any reason why give this video a thumbs down
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. I guess not everyone finds it helpful or interesting.. It’d help me learn to turn them thumbs up for future videos if they explained why 😂🤷🏼♂️
Had a Ford dealership sell me a car once, assured me its been through a 100point inspection. 1 tire was 17psi, another about 22psi and two others under 15psi. Had all the gunk in the radiator, was 99% blockage.
Damn.. should have had a 105 point inspection to include those items😂
@@GatorOverland Same dealership had a desk worker back the car into the garage, hit a pole on the way in. Said the bumper was always like that :P
I thought that was the last of it, I found some papers they had sent 6 years later, showing they would be selling all of my personal information, to private and 3rd party individuals. No wonder I had Identity theft at 19 when I only used cash everywhere I went.
Thank you!! You are a GENIUS. By the way I can listen to you all day.
😂.. thanks, i don’t hear that often .. just paying it forward is all.
This is actually very helpful. Someone told me about how to check ur tires are well inflated. I got a 2015 lifted Scion xB with 215/70/16 toyo open country A/T III. So this will definitely be a very simple handy tool.
Thanks for the tip 🙏🏼🙏🏼
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤝
Got a set of KO3s coming in sat. 80 psi on the rear of my superduty seems unnecessary. Doing this immediately. Thanks.
tirepressure.com/35x12-50r17-tire-pressure
Look at the load/inflation chart and inflate your tire according to your load. I agree, 80 is unnecessary for most driving conditions, but it could be necessary if you’re towing. And.
Looking forward to hearing about the KO3 performance
pretty useful info even for light offroading in cars with stock wheels
I was getting overinflation wear on my 1st gen tacoma, checked the door and the recommended pressure is 26psi!!!
😂
Awesome video & tips man, thank you!
1st time Jeep owner here! I’ve wanted a Jeep ever since I was a kid & finally got my 2012 JKU ABOUT 2.5 weeks ago! I’m still feeling/figuring things out. It felt to me that the steering could be a bit loose feeling or jerky I don’t know exactly how to describe it, as well as seeming to pull to the right a little bit. I assumed at 1st that it probably needed an alignment since it hasn’t had state inspection in MD yet (where they do more stringent 1 & done type of inspections as oppose to more lenient WV yearly inspections, where I bought it & it still had the temp tags from) but when I checked tire pressure to make sure I didn’t have a leak (though no visible flats), I found that both right tires had 35psi & both left were had 37psi. So I just now evened them all @ 35 & am getting ready to see how much if any of a difference only
2psi might make to cause the steering feeling & pulling right like it may if they were significantly more flat on the right.
Strange thing is you’d think I need to come down to say 30psi all around but according to what you were saying in chalk test (unless I misunderstood), if the west is on outside then I need to increase psi? So mine are more worn on outside then center of the tires so I’m confused what could be going on with them? Door reccomends 35psi stock & I currently have the stock size GoodYear Wranglers on it, that it came with from the used dealership. (which I think is the tire what they come with from the factory)... anyway I guess what I’m asking is yours & other people’s thoughts on what my issue might be. Also I’m having a hell of a time adjusting my headlights. It’s like I can’t get them even close to correct. It’s either right one pointed 45° outward & 45° upward toward the tops of trees🤦🏽♂️ & left is pointed downward where the right should be pointed. Or they both are pointed 45° outward & I’m blinding with my left. Seems like I should be able to do better without having to pay someone I can usually perform most basic vehicle repairs installs etc. I even went & bought those dumb sylvanianZXEs cuz I thought @ 1st that I just couldn’t see cuz the dim basic Bulbs it came with. Waste of $60 cuz for $$50 more could have got LED with lens & sometimes find with LED Fog lights on Amazon for $100-$120 which I’ve never had LED Fog lights so not sure if you have to aim them also or if they already aimed correctly... so, I’m worried about that too being a waste if I then can’t aim them.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. If your wear is on the outside of the tire you are under inflated.. if you are wearing on the middle of the tire you are over inflated.. you want even contact.. the door jamb is optimum pressure for your factory sized tires.. you should probably test between 32-35 psi to see the contact.. as far as your headlights you may need to UA-cam JK specific headlight adjustment
This is such a perfect video. I’m glad it was recommended because i would have never known this, or even thought about it. Ive told so many people about this test. I know tires are expensive, and the knowledge to extend their life is simply invaluable. Thanks man.
You bet! Just remember to inflate proper to your load of your towing 😉
@@GatorOverland most certainly. I cant wait to get BFGs newest mud tire, the KM3. Im gonna be a nut case and put them on my 2018 civic hatchback. I already have a set of 15 inch wheels and because im apparently lucky, the smallest size they make for that tire is the one that should fit in my 30 inch fender, being a 27 inch tire. The day i get those, tho, is the day i also buy some chalk. Im just hoping i didnt get too big of an offset for my wheels and i need to cut stuff up. Ill probably get different rims before that 😂 sorry for being so talkative, its just that new fitment is exciting.
I have to see this!!!!
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@@GatorOverland is going to be a while, still, until i have tires :( but I’ll certainly show you them :)
You had mentioned milestars, thats what I had and switched to Ko2 so this helped remind me to check pressure for even wear this week.
Awesome!!!
Thanks for mentioning the importance of aiming headlights. Today's vehicle lighting engineers clearly never travel in areas where there are no street lights, otherwise they would realize these crazy bright new headlights are doing more harm than good.
sincerely-
someone who lives on a winding country road.
😂😂🤘🏼.. you’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks for the informative video and for calling out the difference with Patagonias as that is what I'm planning to run
You bet! They are a great tire, but tire pressure is crucial for proper wear and performance of that tire. They are surprisingly quiet on the highway. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
Great video, id liked to have seen 25psi just to see if the tyre cups in the middle and riding on the edges
Understood . I actually have gone down to 28psi and it was minimal if any difference than 30psi.. my buddy runs 25psi in his 37’s on the same wheel for added comfort but results in lower mpg.. his seem to be wearing fine at that psi, but I wouldn’t go lower than that for daily driving
Thanks!
🤘🏼🤝
Full of knowledge 😊 thanks brother ❤
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 happy to help!!
Just subscribed is so informative and interesting
Thanks for taking the time to watch and subscribe, more content coming soon🤘🏼
COOL 😎
GOING TO CHECK THAT OUT , GOT TO FIND MY GRANDSONS CHALK HE HAS LYING AROUND . THANK YOU 🙏 BE SAFE ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨
You bet! Happy to help🤘🏼
Great video thorough content and it wasn't too long thank you keep up the good work👍
Thanks for the kind comment. In other videos I have a tendency of being long winded with extra detail. BUT.. for someone out there it’s just the right amount of info the need to gain understanding and/or get the job done. I should have some new content out soon. What rig are your running?
Subjective. I found it perfect, but maybe I'm slower. But I know no one who gets a degree in a brief visit to the classroom.
Also, you do know you can speed up playback if your brain is above average, right?
Great work!!! Love the fact that you mention the difference with the Patagonia’s as well. 👍🏼
Thanks bud.. figured it was a good piece of knowledge to have.
Thank you for taking the time for this informative video. Great job Sir
🤘🏼
Thanks for the video! I have not been able to get a straight answer at any tire company as to how to find out the correct pressure on all-terrain tires. Each one of them seem to just guess.
Simple answer… it is a guess.. every vehicle application is different..find the pattern, and go from there
Another thing to consider depending on vehicle, wheel and tire size. Because of the weight distribution from front to back and caster setting (how much the front wheels lean when turned). For example the tires on my old truck likes 42psi in the front and 32 in the back for even wear. I don't bother rotating them because they wear even at that psi.
Absolutely it will change per vehicle and other variables associated with weight and tire and wheel… This is just a way to see what’s going on and adjust as you see fit
@@GatorOverland something I ment to highlight and kinda got side tracked lol on most vehicles the front wheels aren't perfectly straight up and lean even more when turning so tends to wear more on the shoulders of the tire. That's why I run more psi in the front. On the back if you have a straight axle you may want to run less than level than what the test shows because the center of the tire gets taller at highway speeds. I would assume vehicles with independent rear suspension might like similar to front air pressure.
Very true. Camber will definitely have some effects on what tire pressure you run. With the chalk you can visualize it’s contact patch and inflate to your discretion
Awesome video, new tire guy learning and researching this stuff. Crazy how stock you were given seventeen high! Such a trip! definitely good info for me to pass on to customers!
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 (car makers over inflate because the vehicle may sit for an extended period of time)
The video starts at 5:00 you are welcome
😂😂 that’s right! Just wanted to make sure even the most uninformed understood before getting into it. The video is time stamped for your convenience
The lowest road pressure I ever needed for a tire to have full width contract are the TRXUS STS. 20psi.
When I ran at 30, the middle wore out way too fast. Lost wet traction too.
Switched to TRUX MT after that.
I run mine at 25 to 27 psi now… I left it at 30 for the video because it was acceptable for the chalk test… But not everybody would want to invest in a programmer to drop TPMS threshold below the factory setting
Excellent presentation
But…
Drive your vehicle for about 5 min first to warn tires up to operating temp before adjusting.
If you don’t..and do it cold ..as you warm up it will expand and show center tire wear as opposed to even.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… it’s totally to your discretion.
It is advised on many vetted outlets to adjust tire pressure as “cold”/ambient temp or 4hours after driving.
Tire pressure typically increases 1 psi per 10deg increase in tire temp.
@@GatorOverland great point 👍
🤝
Nitrogen fixes that issue friend
I think the pressure on the door, is for factory mpg test and safe to carry max load. But I should point out that, while driving, the weight will transfer, so some situations the tire will carry more load than in the test, like higher speed cornering, breaking... so I would suggest add at least 2-3 psi after a perfect test, and once have heavy load or max load, back to the psi on the door if stock tires/ use inflation table for new size tires . ✌🏻Jeep wave here~
You’re exactly right.. 🤘🏼
This video was very helpful!
Thanks! That’s what it’s all about!
Great demonstration. Keep up the good videos.
Thanks Philip... Colorado is just around the be bend.. I may squeak out 2 more before we leave. Stay well my “cloaked” friend!
Good vid. My personal rule of thumb is this - When in doubt, 5 lbs under recommended psi... just in case. It's always worked for me. I'm on KO2s (35"x12.5x17r)
🤘🏼🤘🏼
@@GatorOverland I realize it's probably not the Best "go-to" when setting All-Terrain tires for 75%Street / 25% medium grade offroad... but So Far So Good.🤘
I roll 27psi on my 37’s and 12-15 psi off-road.. no issues, rides like a cloud and is wearing great!
@@GatorOverland that sounds good to me!
I'm doing 35 psi in the front and 31 for the guys in the back for extra grab. They're on my 2018 Silverado 1500 Z71. Is that OK or whaddaya think?
Absolutely, I came from a 2014 Silverado and ran 34psi on my BFG’s..
Very informative video! Thanks for posting!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment
Man you’re awesome! I would had never thought about using chalk just subscribe to your channel. Thank you for the valuable tip.
Absolutely… Happy to help.. just make sure you do it when they’re cold, and or sitting for 2 to 4 hours before adjusting. You’ll also want to double check your tire manufactures load to inflation ratings to make sure it’s adequate for the loads of your vehicle and or towing… Obviously you want to be running optimum pressure if you’re towing🤘🏼
Gotta watch p-metric vs LT tires. Also you need to take into account loads/usage especially for trucks.
Need to do this test on my duratracs. Going to sound crazy, but I have my dura tracks at almost 50 psi, I used to have my old nitto trail grapplers at 30 psi and the duratracs ride smoother.
The chalk test should prove the ideal pressure. Depending on the tire size and ply , wheel size and width, the pressure variable could be vast between tire brands. I know the duratrac are known for being stiff high pressure tire in some configurations.
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
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You rock! Following 😎
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thanks for the great video...very glad I watched it, as all the "how-to's" I read online led me to believe I needed to look at the chalk mark left behind on the road by the tire, not on the tire itself. That would have been a problem. ;0)
Awesome!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! Glad I could help, that’s what it’s all about..
The door sticker is for stock size tires only... changing tires negates the sticker.
Your stock tires had 47pssi because they were filled to 37psi on a cold day and when they warm up the air expands.
Exactly. I agree the tire pressure increases with heat or increase in ambient temperature, but not 10°… My tires commonly increase 3°-5 degree on the highway from friction. They overfill them from the factory… Commonly 40+ psi.. it’s just something to be aware of.
@@GatorOverland They filled them that high so they wouldn't be flat by the time the car hauler dropped them off at the dealer. The leakiest tire you will ever find (without some puncture) is a new tire. beads are not fully seated until the tire warms up for a bit.
This was very useful. Thank you!
Just bought a new Willys Wrangler Manual Transmission. Have the 255/70/17. From the dealership the psi was at 44 lol.
😂😂😂.. check the door jamb.. should be at most that value.. and go down from there.. I’m thinking 33psi might be just right
Even for regular sized ties, adjusting the pressure for the load improves the ride. On my RAM 2500 I use the same tires that would be specified for a RAM 1500. This allows mw to lower the pressure down to safe pressures for the light duty tires without fear of rim leaks. If I want to carry up to 1000 lbs. I inflate the tires to their maximum pressure which is still be well below the heavy duty tires. When I put the camper on the truck I replace the wheels with ones with load range E tires to handle the extra 2000 lbs.
That’s exactly right!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment !
Those black things you twist off the tire vale’s are called caps, not stems. The stems are inside the valves, under the caps.
Yes, that’s correct.. sometimes when I do videos the brain says what it wants to say and when I see it back I realize it, hoping no one notices. But in this case, thankfully it’s just a valve cap error. You’re the first person point that out since posting years ago..
try find where I have my shirt on inside out because I put it on when it was dark.
I took the stems out and all my air came out. Lol
I’m actually watching this for the first time because I just got my 37s on the 4xE. They feel a tiny bit out of balance on the highway and feels like the alignment is slightly off, even though nothing else changed.
Thats’s very possible.. my alignment was 7/32 toe from factory.. 0-3/32” is max.. drove incredible after the tow was adjusted .. I have 2.75” lift with geometry relocation brackets that put me at the ideal 6.5deg caster.. anything less than 5deg needs attention with the bracket Or adjustable lower control arms. I track like a cloud on a set of rails.. let me know if you have any questions
@@GatorOverland mine was perfect until they put these tires and wheels on lol
@@GatorOverland video to come, I swear! Lol
Ill stay tuned
Regarding gearing.
In my 2010 4dr Rubicon, I went from the stock 32 to 37x12.5, tears from 4.10 to 5.13. Revs just a little higher than stock.
Got the same mpg highway as bone stock despite replacing all the plastic with steel and adding 3/16" engine to gas tank six plate kit. Between 500-700 pounds heavier than stock.
That is the perfect Regear for a JK and 37 ‘s… I have a few friends that went 488 and the performance is lacking a little bit by comparison… These new eight speed automatic transmissions are outstanding for maintaining the proper RPM… 488 would be ideal for daily driving… 513 would be ideal for towing and a bit more low end torque off road
@@GatorOverland I had the stick.
Also bought the AEV pro cal module.
Got the speedo within 1mph of GPS at 75mph.😀😃😄😁
I have the stick too 🤘🏼
That's a great test for low speeds. However, I suspect that at highway speeds where heat cause tire pressure increases and changes the tire shape might nullify the low speed results. Just a thought... Beautiful Jeep BTW!
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. It’s relative throughout the range of tire temp. If you’re too high to begin with, then you will be too high after they heat up, and potentially over pressured. This test is a reference for tire pressure, and up to the discretion of the user to determine. I’m at 48k with the tires seen in the video and wearing perfectly with no abnormal wearing. I range between 30 & 35psi on the highway.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the update! 48K-- That's good to know. On my old Ranger, I've been running 35-psi in Duratracks and think I might drop down to 30. Looking forward to trying the chalk test, as it feels like I'm on the over inflated side with 35. My tire size is quite a bit smaller (235/75/15) so I don't expect a super plush ride, just looking to get the most life out of the tires~
That’s what it’s all about in the end, finding a happy medium for comfort and tire life. These tires cost too much to not pay attention to. My BFG’s are a 50k tire and I’m confident I’ll get a good 55k out then with safe room to spare. I rotate religiously at 5000miles. Then test is the same but, vehicle weight, tire size, tire ratings (plus), wheel width, temperature, are all variables that effect tire pressure to patch contact..
your tire on a 8” wide wheel at 30psi will have a different contact patch than a 7.5” wheel at 30psi.. just use your judgement.. like you said, the tire heats up and the pressure increase.. test cold and double check the warm contact patch as well..
You should google your tire load/pressure rating to know your range of pressure and what the load capacity is for that pressure.
I tried this method of determining proper tire pressure for my car, a Honda Accord. The sticker on the driver’s door pillar calls for 32psi.
I chalked and ran 25, chalked and ran 35, chalked and ran 30. The amount of chalk remaining in the shoulders was exactly the same.
I guess that’s why I see this “chalk method” demonstrated on UA-cam mostly with Jeeps and light trucks, not on sedans or coupes
It’s merely a reference, not a concrete guideline… If you’re running the same size tires that the car manufacturer recommends then there’s no need to talk to ask other than your understanding of how much tire is touching the ground
@@GatorOverland I see. So some of you re running after market sizes. Give the chalk back to the kids - there's a table for that!
Am I the only one who noticed how nice a finish those tires had 🤙 Would love to know the dressing you used. I’m trying Adam’s graphite now and it seems pretty matte but would love to k ow what you use😊
Simple green is the answer.. 🤫
I don't use any shine either, (Simple Green, LA's totally awesome yellow degreaser, or Wesley's Bleche White) just creates more build up and living in SoCal, almost every tire I've seen with lots of shine are more dry rotted than just clean tires.
You want nice tires and want them to stay nice. Clean them very well with degreaser. Use Chemical Guys tire shine. Let it dry well before driving the car. Give them a second coat if you want.
Let it dry well. Then go over the tire with a clean microfibre cloth to kinda buff that finish.
Once your done. Spray over that with hairspray. The cheapest one you can find. I buy it at the dollar store for $3 a can. Do this on a clam day. Wind is your enemy here. Put it on as if you were using spray paint…a few light coats dries almost instantly.
After application do not rub or touch. Let it dry and your done.
Should last indefinitely.
When you wash the car don’t use harsh soap on the rubber and it won’t wash off either.
It’s basically lacquer and will eventually wear off. Just don’t overspray onto the paint.
Hairspray dries almost instantly so you might use the whole can depending on your technique.
Don’t get too close or it will run and not too far or you’ll miss the rubber.
My best advice is to practice on a tire other than the ones on your car to perfect the process.
Good luck!
I purchased a set of Mickey Thompson “35”s and they measure 34” 🤦🏻♂️ I run them at 32 PSI but will do this test tomorrow thanks man! 👍🏻
No biggie, that is probably a good pressure in general.. just make sure you readjust the pressure to optimum for your load before you tow..
Gator_Overland yeap I will for sure thanks.
Is the Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 as the Patagonia? Or I can use this method with it? Great and VERY useful vídeo bro!!!!
I believe Patagonia is the only tire like it. The chalk test should apply to your Yokohama’s 🤘🏼
Definitely going to give this a try.
It makes a big difference… Just make sure you do it when they’re cold… And stay within the manufacture, pressure range
Very helpfull, thank you. You touched very briefly on the subject of adjusting the Tire Pressure Monitor System in the Jeep to a different threshold. I just upgraded my stock JL tires to 33 inch tires and the shop has them set at 38 psi. I want to do the chalk test, but I am afraid that the TPMS system will complain if I set it any lower than the factory specs, how does one reset those thresholds?
Great question! The pressure sensor threshold starts “low tire” notification @29 psi and will not reset until you re-inflate to 37 psi.. you will be fine down to 30-32 psi, but if you have a cold snap it could potentially allow the pressure to go below the 29psi threshold.. I use the ECRI module/app and have accounted for my tire size increase to 37 and lowered my threshold to 25psi.. I run my 37’s at 28-30psi..
ecri.app/products/ecri-wireless-vehicle-calibration-device
Let me know if you have any more questions
My 285/70/17 are at 45psi. Need to do the chalk test
This is great information and I run Cooper 295/70/17 which says max PSi is 80 and seeing that most posts here are in the 30 PSI range, is it odd to be so far off from the Cooper max of 80 PSI?
you have to remember that the tires are not based what vehicle they go on, but rather the capability of load at a certain pressure… You should always inflate according to your load… If you are not hauling or driving I heavy vehicle, Then the maximum tire pressure should be what is rated on the door jamb as a reference, from there you can decrease the pressure to your comfort or as you see preferable contact with the road. More than likely an 80 psi rated tire is a load range E, which is ideal for 3/4 ton and 1 ton vehicles And will have an outstanding load rating over range C and range D by comparison.
Would that test have a different outcome if the truck was loaded up with the weight it was rated to tow or carry?
Absolutely.. you should always fill your tires to the optimum pressure of your load.. this is for Normal driving.. As long as the pressure you fill to is capable of the load you’re doing you will be fine.. Google your tire to load to pressure ratings for the manufacture.. my 37’s at 25psi are rated for 2150lbs.. my truck is 5000lbs, my tire setting is more than sufficient..but, I’d I was to pull a load, I would inflate to a safe pressure for the load.
Was an auto tech. 17 years & never heard of this. I always filled my tires to the recommended max for increased fuel economy. I’m just curious on how this text would change if done under hi speed. I assume the center might expand out due to centrifugal forces which means letting even more air out?
This is more or less a convenient method to find proper tire wear when you are unsure of what pressure to run after installing aftermarket wheels or tires… Running at the max pressure is not good in some cases because the tire increases in pressure as they heat up which could put it over the max pressure writing… running the manufactured specified pressure on the door jam is only relevant to the stock configuration. Doing a chalk test just confirms your pattern.. it’s the drivers discretion on how much or a little further pattern preference..
yes, centrifugal force does play into the game of pressure, but that is a variable that is constantly changing.
Chalk test for general use. What about off road, snow, mud, rock, gravel trails?
It’s all to your general discretion… Every tire size performs differently per inflation, and on top of that the vehicle weight will have a role in it as well. For hardpacked sand and gravel trails I typically start out about 10 psi below my normal street pressure… For rocks, mud and deep snow I typically go just above single digit psi, 10-15.. in the end it’s what you’re comfortable with for the conditions
And they say there’s no such thing as a bad question 😂
@n2daair23 😂😂😂
@@GatorOverland what do you mean by hardback? Also what about slightly muddy rutted dirt roads?
I meant to say hardpacked sand. As for slightly rutted roads, if it’s convenient enough to engage 4x4 it should be sufficient, but if it’s more that just a few ruts, half your normal pressure you’d be a good pressure for a bigger footprint.
I did not know this easy method. This is happening real soon.
You bet man! Just make sure you check your tire mfg. inflation/load chart so you know your min and max inflation is within whatever your load capabilities are, especially if you’re towing. My BFG’s are good between 25-50 psi. I don’t tow, so I run them at 28-30psi and the chalk test proves worthy.. 🤘🏼
Real nice video, thanks man! Don’t know why u gettin the hate by others oh well😒. My 80’ ford 150 with nearly the same size bfgs runs about 25 psi
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. out of 100k views I expect a few to balk… most comment on unrelated content or statements.. all welcomed.. 😂🤝
I had an "84" Ford Bronco 2 with a custom front and rear suspension and narrowed Dana 60's on 35 BFG MT's. Getting any more than 15 thousand miles out of a set without them turning into octagons or worse. Once I started chalking 23 psi. Rear and 27 in the front. It was 24 until the 2.8 was replaced with a 351 Windsor and a C6 with a NP205. 20,000 miles and still had enough tread to regroove for some cool sand tires.
@Holeshotmx037 this Has to be one of the best comments.. thanks for the insight and taking the time to comment
tyres are expensive , its best way for save mony , thank you man 🤗🌷💰🛠👌👍
Exactly! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Awesome video sir!
Thank you!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment
Really good video, thanks!
You bet! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! Hope it works for you! 🤘🏼🤝
Good video! Wish I would have seen it before buying aftermarket wheels i would have liked to run my stock Rubicon wheels 🤔
No worries, you are probably better off in the long run in the case that you want to go bigger than 37’s down the road 😜
When my jeep yj was basically stock on 31's 23psi front & 21psi rear was even wear. Sao and 35's. Well they just sit at 7psi now on the trailer.. it happens
Greatness, awesome videos man!
Thanks James! Good to hear from you bud. I hope all is well with you and the fam.
isn't the outside slightly bevelled/curved for cornering grip so it wouldn't necessarily rub out the chalk on a straight flat surface
Yes, just at the edge of the tread where it breaks over and turns from lug to side wall.. contacting up to that break over point is the test.. riding on the middle portion of your tread is not ideal unless your running milestar Patagonia’s
That bf ko are not rounded like patagonia,with a wider wheel you will get full patch contact with higher air pressure.
Very true🤘🏼
Awesome informative video! Thanks for taking the time to do these for all of us. I was wondering your thoughts on running the stock rims on the 37x12.50s. To my knowledge, most tire manufacturers do not recommend running that wide of a tire on the stock wheel due to the 8 inch width, and recommend at least a 9 inch width. IMHO, one inch is just one inch and I think it should be fine, but I was wondering how your experience has been with the tire wear on the 37s and stock rims. Doing the chalk test im sure helps the wear a lot. Just curious what your opinion was on that. And sorry if you've addressed this in a prior video, Im still going through them all! Thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Different tire manufacturer specified different minimum wheel widths… BFG minimum is seven. Five, so everything is good… BFG tends to run a bit smaller than other brands… My tire measures 35.5 at 30 psi… I have about 35,000 miles on mine now and wearing great… Still very quiet on the highway and no scalping or premature where from being on a less than wide wheel, mostly due to the proper tire pressure.. I run 27 to 30 psi, and off-road between 10 and 15psi.. wide tire with a narrow wheel is known as a poor man beadlock..
@@GatorOverland awesome to hear. I didn’t know bfg’s minimum was 7.5! That’s good news to me moving forward. Thanks for the response! Love the channel man
Thanks - great advice - i will try that for sure
Glad it was helpful!
Great job with this video.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… 🤘🏼
That's a sick gladiator!
Thanks Doug… It’s brought us to a lot of really cool places
Great vid mate, thanks :)
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
much easier to start with tire max PSI as listed on tire or on-line. easier to release pressure than air up.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
The info you have provided may work for some folks/vehicle applications, but I wouldn’t advise that max inflation approach. However I do agree the tire mfg pressure/inflation chart should be referred to for determining an allowable range for normal driving and/or load
I assume you want to get the tires up to running temp first, right? My tires are 35 psi when cold but reach 40 to 42 psi after driving a bit.
No, you want to do this as cold/ambient temp.. the tire pressure increases about 1psi per 10deg increase.
Great instructional video. I am really surprised the unloaded diameter is so small. The spec says they measure 36.5”. Curious on the choice of stock rims. The BFG site says minimum rim width of 8.5” not 7.5”. Also although I like keeping the rim offset the same for better steering, don’t you end up with some contact when turning tight due to the extra diameter and width?
Yes, the mfg height is based on the widest wheel at max pressure.. every variable will change the final height
Pressure, weight, wheel width, temp
BFG’s are rates for 7.5 min
www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2
Thanks for the vids 👍
You bet man… Let me know if you have any questions
I Did The Stock Tire Pressure Vs Stock Tire Load Index. Then Referenced The Load Rating Across What It Would Be For My New Tires Load Index To Find The Correct PSI. I Do Want To Test This Chalk Method On It And See How It Does Becasue My Tires Are Much Wider Than Stock.
Width, height, ply type, load rating, style of tire, temp, actual load.. all are a variable of the tire pressure.. as soon as you change one or a few of this variables you potentially deviate from the mfg suggested designed for the tires that come as stock.
Always adjust your tires when they are cold/ambient temp or rested for 3-4hrs
Any rubbing issues with the stock backspacing and 37’s? Love that high and tight look.
Not one issue rubbing, even when lock to lock when flexed. Check out my insta @gator_overland I have a few pics and clips for reference
Gator_Overland thanks for the reply. Shopping for lifts and most say 4.5 to 4.75 minimum, but none say WHY.
Id say it’s more precautionary to keep them in the clear liability wise, other times it’s to insure suspension components are in the clear at all times.
If I go aftermarket wheels, I’m going MOPAR performance or AEV.. they know their jeeps and are designed to work best without going too far out of factory offset specs
Gator_Overland the AEV Pintler Wheels are what I really want. Just concerned about having to space them with the lift.... which for me is a no go.
Great Review thank you 👍🗽🇺🇲
The Vermonter
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment !🤘🏼
Glad you mentioned headlights. I was a jeep owner, beginning to hate jeeps due to their headlights. Do the jeep community a favor, adjust your head lights and don’t drive with off-road or fog lights on.
Great video. What tires did you go with? I'm debating between 35 and 37s. How tall is your gladiator with the mopar lift and 37s. I would like my gladiator to still fit in my garage lol. Thanks!
Contact me outside of UA-cam JKHARTEL3@gmail.com or @gator_overland on insta.. I have photos and more info on your questions
8:53 just out of curiosity,what trail is that, also do you know any trails near mansfield texas ?
That is at Hidden Falls Adventure park in Marble Falls, Texas in the heart of the hill country (near Austin). I’m not sure where you’re from but It’s worth a scratch or two if you ever make it out that way. www.hiddenfallsadventurepark.com/
Great idea! Thnx
You Bet, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Great way to test the psi, thanks.
You bet! You should definitely refer to the tire mfg load inflation chart but for most vehicles and most driving conditions, this is a simple and effective option to visually see what your tire is doing on the road.
@@GatorOverland Certainly.
Good video. On par with other videos I've seen on the subject.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.