Thanks for the video Please remember you want to do this with hot tires. If you do it at cold, you'll then air down about 10% as the tire pressure goes up during operation.
You bet! They are a great tire, but tire pressure is crucial for proper wear and performance of that tire. They are surprisingly quiet on the highway. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
The door sticker is for stock size tires only... changing tires negates the sticker. Your stock tires had 47pssi because they were filled to 37psi on a cold day and when they warm up the air expands.
Exactly. I agree the tire pressure increases with heat or increase in ambient temperature, but not 10°… My tires commonly increase 3°-5 degree on the highway from friction. They overfill them from the factory… Commonly 40+ psi.. it’s just something to be aware of.
@@GatorOverland They filled them that high so they wouldn't be flat by the time the car hauler dropped them off at the dealer. The leakiest tire you will ever find (without some puncture) is a new tire. beads are not fully seated until the tire warms up for a bit.
That's a great test for low speeds. However, I suspect that at highway speeds where heat cause tire pressure increases and changes the tire shape might nullify the low speed results. Just a thought... Beautiful Jeep BTW!
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. It’s relative throughout the range of tire temp. If you’re too high to begin with, then you will be too high after they heat up, and potentially over pressured. This test is a reference for tire pressure, and up to the discretion of the user to determine. I’m at 48k with the tires seen in the video and wearing perfectly with no abnormal wearing. I range between 30 & 35psi on the highway.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the update! 48K-- That's good to know. On my old Ranger, I've been running 35-psi in Duratracks and think I might drop down to 30. Looking forward to trying the chalk test, as it feels like I'm on the over inflated side with 35. My tire size is quite a bit smaller (235/75/15) so I don't expect a super plush ride, just looking to get the most life out of the tires~
That’s what it’s all about in the end, finding a happy medium for comfort and tire life. These tires cost too much to not pay attention to. My BFG’s are a 50k tire and I’m confident I’ll get a good 55k out then with safe room to spare. I rotate religiously at 5000miles. Then test is the same but, vehicle weight, tire size, tire ratings (plus), wheel width, temperature, are all variables that effect tire pressure to patch contact.. your tire on a 8” wide wheel at 30psi will have a different contact patch than a 7.5” wheel at 30psi.. just use your judgement.. like you said, the tire heats up and the pressure increase.. test cold and double check the warm contact patch as well.. You should google your tire load/pressure rating to know your range of pressure and what the load capacity is for that pressure.
I've been using the chalk method for over 15 years. Your explanation is dead on! My only suggestion is to apply the chalk at 3 different places around the tread. Tires are often not exactly round, so checking it at several locations can even things out. People don't seem to realize that one size of tire can be used on many different vehicles that can weigh several hundreds of pounds different from one another. The chalk method can dial in the exact pressure you need for your application.
Right. And even going from 29.5 tires to 30.5 for the Cherokee Trailhawk (you can go to 32 with minor mods) if you look at the load tables you'll see that 31 PSI will hold the same weight in a 265 65 17 as a 245 65 17 holds with 36 psi. 37 is REALLY high for the Wrangler IMHO. It seems like every year tire pressures go up higher and higher (likely for fuel economy reasons). I would say that a 37 with 30 PSI will hold very substantial loads, probably still far beyond the stock tires. A load table might even say 22 is ok . Maybe for off road is do that .... but it gets to a point where even though you can hold the load , it's too "squishy" All these things are good references but still I feel all roads lead back to chalk. I'll check it out tomorrow. Pretty sure I'll chalk between 30 and 33 psi.
When my jeep yj was basically stock on 31's 23psi front & 21psi rear was even wear. Sao and 35's. Well they just sit at 7psi now on the trailer.. it happens
Great instructional video. I am really surprised the unloaded diameter is so small. The spec says they measure 36.5”. Curious on the choice of stock rims. The BFG site says minimum rim width of 8.5” not 7.5”. Also although I like keeping the rim offset the same for better steering, don’t you end up with some contact when turning tight due to the extra diameter and width?
Yes, the mfg height is based on the widest wheel at max pressure.. every variable will change the final height Pressure, weight, wheel width, temp BFG’s are rates for 7.5 min www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2
Question. I'm doing exactly as you said w the chalk. I just got 37" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T. The shop inflated them accordingly. Pass rear 47.6 lbs Driver rear 36.7 lbs Driver front 34 8 lbs Pass front 34.8 lbs The chalk test has me down to 26 lbs all the way around. I'm almost hitting flat across, except the 1/2" outside edges. How low do you think I can or should go before to low of air pressure.
That’s a great question and depending on the amount of ply of your tires, The width of the wheel, can affect the amount of deflation required… Just because it’s not touching all the way across does not necessarily mean it is not proper contact but more or less a guideline… You should refer to your tire inflation load chart, but for your tire 37x12.50 are 25 to 80 psi depending on load range c to f, very similar to my 25-50 BFG’s and I have ran them from 27 to 32 psi over the course of their 57,000 mile life (thus far).. I would venture to say not going much less than 27 psi for normal highway… 28 to 32 would be a good roundabout number… Anything is better than 47 psi 😂😂..
Do you know if the TSB upgrade/issue applies to the 2020 JL Wrangler Rubicon? I bought one last summer with 14 km on it and then did a huge 3000km road trip through the BC mountains. It now has 10190km and I have not experienced said issue so I'm jw! Thanks and btw nice Gladiator👍🏼
Is there an ideal speed to run this test...? I did the test, but not in an ideal way. I think it's pretty close, but am going to do it again when I get a chance.
If I never touched pavement you can bet I’d be at 10-12psi full time. Running that low on Highway at high speed is going to potentially ruin the tread and sidewall of those tires in a short time frame.
@@GatorOverland You are 100% right Gator, remember all the plies are on the tread, low tire pressure puts more strain on the sidewall, low pressure will heat the sidewall until the sidewall fails and you are trying to figure out how to replace more than One tire with a single spare. Try this, drive 20 miles on pavement, with 10 psi, then get out and use a digital thermometer to check the temperature of the side wall, then you'll understand. ASE Retired mechanic with 40 years experience-----Great video.
My truck rarely sees highway use, and when it does I air back up. I live 3 miles from work, 1 mile from the grocery store and gas station, and a half mile from the trail head.
Double check your tire mfg. load/pressure ratings to make sure you’re in acceptable range for what you do with your vehicle. You obviously want to run tires at optimum pressure if you’re towing. I chalk tested my 37” BFG KO2’s @ 28-30psi cold. Keep in mind that you’re tires pressure can vary up or down based on ambient temps. Your “low tire”pressure dummy light is activated at 29psi or below, and the dummy light will not clear until you reinflate to the pressure stated on the dash (typically 36-37psi). You will need to flash your computer to lower TPMS “low pressure” threshold. If you’ve upgraded to 35/37’s and/or regeared you should flash for those changes as well, especially if your are automatic, and most definitely before you tow. If you have the stock 4.10’s you will be 6mph (+\-) off and your shift points will not be optimal and fuel mileage will be off. Tire size input should be the distance from the ground to the approx center of your wheel multiplied by 2.. my 37’s measure 17.25” from ground to wheel center. 17.25”x2= 34.50” tire size input and its spot on! Tazers cost $300+, dealerships will charge $150 to flash. I use the ECRI programmer and it works like a champ for all the above adjustments and cost about $80 for the unit and $50 per vehicle to activate and can be married to multiple vehicles at one time and uses a simple phone app to adjust everything. ECRI Vehicle Calibration Device with Security Bypass Module - Fits Jeep Wrangler JL & Gladiator JT - Requires in-APP Purchase PER Vehicle www.amazon.com/dp/B082T48ZVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_iV44Fb0CW3RA9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No way I’d run 30 or 32 psi in my tires. Few years ago ford explorers huge lawsuit for 32 psi in tires also after tires heat up your psi NOT same your chalk wear won’t be same I don’t want my truck wiggling all over road 40 psi cold hot texas day they hit 45
It’s definitely not a golden rule, but it will get you in the general vicinity of ideal pressure when you deviate from stock wheels and/or tires. The mfg recommended tire pressure ratings would no longer be relevant. 38k on the KO2’s on the video at 30psi.. no issues to date.. I don’t expect any either
Yes & no. The 37 PSI from the factory would be more useful for a wider range of load. Your method is only good for when your car is unloaded. Another thing you miss is not every tire tread are designed to be flat across. Secondly a lower PSI will soften your sidewall which will affect your cornering stability. Your method work best when the tires that you choose has a flat tread from shoulder to shoulder & when you're a slow driver. But I could be wrong. Great content.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You make some great points, and you are correct, this concept isn’t for everyone and is only meant as a reference. It’s to your discretion what pressure you use. My video is to reference for daily driving… Tire pressures should always be inflated to match your vehicles weight or load.
The only critique I have is a minor one, just something people tend to do a lot in videos that I find annoying; the video title told us what the topic was-- there was no need to spend the first two minutes or so "teasing" us with the infomercial-style "would you like to know...?" and then revealing the chalk as if we didn't already know it was coming. Otherwise, nicely done. I've known about this for years. Even mentioned it recently in a comment elsewhere. But this is the first video I've seen on it.
Very cool, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. yes, the prolonged portion is a bit dramatic. I’m trying to make more simple and concise videos in future. I just want even the laymens to understand.
@@GatorOverland you do a fine job. I look forward to more videos. I'm a fellow Texan, thinking about setting up my truck for overlanding. But many other things to deal with before that.
Always good to hear from a neighbor.. 🤝... I’m from the Beaumont area... feel free to contact me via Facebook, insta, or email.. I’d be happy to share camp locations and info with you. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on facebook.com/JKHartel3 instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip Hawkijon@aol.com
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. I guess not everyone finds it helpful or interesting.. It’d help me learn to turn them thumbs up for future videos if they explained why 😂🤷🏼♂️
I think the pressure on the door, is for factory mpg test and safe to carry max load. But I should point out that, while driving, the weight will transfer, so some situations the tire will carry more load than in the test, like higher speed cornering, breaking... so I would suggest add at least 2-3 psi after a perfect test, and once have heavy load or max load, back to the psi on the door if stock tires/ use inflation table for new size tires . ✌🏻Jeep wave here~
It’s all to your general discretion… Every tire size performs differently per inflation, and on top of that the vehicle weight will have a role in it as well. For hardback sand and gravel trails I typically start out about 10 psi below my normal street pressure… For rocks, mud and deep snow I typically go just above single digit psi, 10-15.. in the end it’s what you’re comfortable with for the conditions
Very good. But did you take into account what the role dynamics of speed would play in the test? I'm thinking at 65 mph, the center of the tire may bulge out from the centrifugal forces. I suppose it may be a moot point as the handling characteristics would be the litmus test, however subjective that might be...
Thanks for mentioning the importance of aiming headlights. Today's vehicle lighting engineers clearly never travel in areas where there are no street lights, otherwise they would realize these crazy bright new headlights are doing more harm than good. sincerely- someone who lives on a winding country road.
Excellent presentation But… Drive your vehicle for about 5 min first to warn tires up to operating temp before adjusting. If you don’t..and do it cold ..as you warm up it will expand and show center tire wear as opposed to even.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… it’s totally to your discretion. It is advised on many vetted outlets to adjust tire pressure as “cold”/ambient temp or 4hours after driving. Tire pressure typically increases 1 psi per 10deg increase in tire temp.
Wow. What a difference. I just bought a used 2016 jeep with 34s from a dealer. They had 44psi in the rear 39psi in the front. Dropped everything to 33psi. I didn’t finish because it got dark but I went for a ride… it’s like a completely different vehicle. Way way better ride.
Yes, that’s correct.. sometimes when I do videos the brain says what it wants to say and when I see it back I realize it, hoping no one notices. But in this case, thankfully it’s just a valve cap error. You’re the first person point that out since posting years ago.. try find where I have my shirt on inside out because I put it on when it was dark.
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 love hearing that! That’s the difference between going by spec versus going by visible confirmation… Not all wheels and tires are created equal and thus no one pressure is correct, some pressures are better than others and it’s up to your discretion to decide what pressure works for you.. the chalk test just confirms that you’re not too much and not to under inflated
Tire pressure changes from day to day drive to drive. The pressure can change from morning to mid day to night. Park your car with one side in full sun and the other in shade and the pressure is uneven. The speed you’re driving can also change the contact surface area of the tire. The tire bulges in the centre more than the shoulder at high speed. I’m not sold on the chalk test. At different speeds I’m sure you will have different tire wear without changing pressure. You drove a hundred feet at 10 mph not what I would call conclusive evidence.
You’re exactly right… And the chalk test is a general form of reference, nothing more… It’s to give you an idea of the pressure at cold ambient temperature… Your tire pressure increases about 1 psi per every 10° increase temperature… if the pressure in the sun is slightly different from what the pressure is from one side to the other they should be similar at highway speeds when driven… The idea is to not be over pressured when driving, and ideally having the majority of the contact patch On the road. Again, this is for reference only.. different vehicles will yield different results at the same pressures, that’s why you talk test so you know how it’s contacting at a specific pressure your vehicle.. A Ford F250 running 37s at 30 psi is going to contact differently than a jeep Wrangler with 37s at 30 psi because weight alone.. what an F250 driver would advise may not apply to a Wrangler driver… that’s why you reference with a chalk test to see if the information works for you.. if 30 PSI satisfies your contact patch and comfort then all is well.. it’s to your discretion to inflate or deflate from there.
Another factor can be urban or rural road drive and off-roads drive. Urban roads can have some unavoidable pits which cannot always be avoided. Keeping in view of the above, tire pressure is somewhat subjective according to the type of vehicle as well
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Make sure you check the manufacture tire pressure ranges to know that you are good for the pressure… And always air to the optimum pressure if towing..
Very true.. in the end it all adds up. That’s where having the rubicon or tow package with the bigger brakes comes in handy and/or investing in proper brake upgrades and differential regear at minimum to account for the additional rotational mass. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏼
@@GatorOverland I just got ALL Terrains BFGoodrich KO2S. Installer set to 39 psi. I drive a Chevy G20 Sportsvan conversion. I believe 33 is suggested psi for 225/75r15. I upgraded to LT235/75r15s. Where should I be ?
I would start out with at least what’s on the door jamb…you need to pay attention to what your vehicle is capable of towing so you know what your max PSI needs to be for that load…The chalk test will prove, but I found yeah ideal confort pressure per chalk test to be about 5 psi below door jam pressure, , But the weight of the vehicle and the width of the tire and wheel all make different variables. www.bfgoodrichtires.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-bfgoodrich-us-Library/default/dwa4dc4a41/pdf/changetireSize/420bcacc-01bf-42c9-840e-55344685c842.pdf
Awesome video & tips man, thank you! 1st time Jeep owner here! I’ve wanted a Jeep ever since I was a kid & finally got my 2012 JKU ABOUT 2.5 weeks ago! I’m still feeling/figuring things out. It felt to me that the steering could be a bit loose feeling or jerky I don’t know exactly how to describe it, as well as seeming to pull to the right a little bit. I assumed at 1st that it probably needed an alignment since it hasn’t had state inspection in MD yet (where they do more stringent 1 & done type of inspections as oppose to more lenient WV yearly inspections, where I bought it & it still had the temp tags from) but when I checked tire pressure to make sure I didn’t have a leak (though no visible flats), I found that both right tires had 35psi & both left were had 37psi. So I just now evened them all @ 35 & am getting ready to see how much if any of a difference only 2psi might make to cause the steering feeling & pulling right like it may if they were significantly more flat on the right. Strange thing is you’d think I need to come down to say 30psi all around but according to what you were saying in chalk test (unless I misunderstood), if the west is on outside then I need to increase psi? So mine are more worn on outside then center of the tires so I’m confused what could be going on with them? Door reccomends 35psi stock & I currently have the stock size GoodYear Wranglers on it, that it came with from the used dealership. (which I think is the tire what they come with from the factory)... anyway I guess what I’m asking is yours & other people’s thoughts on what my issue might be. Also I’m having a hell of a time adjusting my headlights. It’s like I can’t get them even close to correct. It’s either right one pointed 45° outward & 45° upward toward the tops of trees🤦🏽♂️ & left is pointed downward where the right should be pointed. Or they both are pointed 45° outward & I’m blinding with my left. Seems like I should be able to do better without having to pay someone I can usually perform most basic vehicle repairs installs etc. I even went & bought those dumb sylvanianZXEs cuz I thought @ 1st that I just couldn’t see cuz the dim basic Bulbs it came with. Waste of $60 cuz for $$50 more could have got LED with lens & sometimes find with LED Fog lights on Amazon for $100-$120 which I’ve never had LED Fog lights so not sure if you have to aim them also or if they already aimed correctly... so, I’m worried about that too being a waste if I then can’t aim them.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. If your wear is on the outside of the tire you are under inflated.. if you are wearing on the middle of the tire you are over inflated.. you want even contact.. the door jamb is optimum pressure for your factory sized tires.. you should probably test between 32-35 psi to see the contact.. as far as your headlights you may need to UA-cam JK specific headlight adjustment
Had a Ford dealership sell me a car once, assured me its been through a 100point inspection. 1 tire was 17psi, another about 22psi and two others under 15psi. Had all the gunk in the radiator, was 99% blockage.
@@GatorOverland Same dealership had a desk worker back the car into the garage, hit a pole on the way in. Said the bumper was always like that :P I thought that was the last of it, I found some papers they had sent 6 years later, showing they would be selling all of my personal information, to private and 3rd party individuals. No wonder I had Identity theft at 19 when I only used cash everywhere I went.
😂 i get that a lot.. sorry about that. Just trying to be informative for those who don’t have previous knowledge. I’m trying to be more concise with my video, and possibly leave forecast text for people to skip forward if they need too. Once it’s loaded, i can’t edit it. More content coming soon.
Thanks for this tip/ trick , just put a new set of BF KO2 on my jeep TJ . checked my tire pressure after watching this video and found that tire company did not have balanced tire pressure between tires ranging from 33 to 38 psi . Lesson - Just do not take their word the tire pressures are correct . At any rate I did a chalk test and my tires seem good at 33 psi and the jeep rides smoother . I plan to do a second test to fine tune when the weather is better .
😉 thanks for the reply Richard! Those tires are good between 25 and 50 psi on the highway, but Ideally between 30 and your door jamb pressure.. I chalk between 28 & 30 psi.. as long as your checking your base pressure when cold you’re fine.. obviously cold snaps will lower the pressure slightly, but it will warm and increase as you drive. Remember to put them to optimum pressure for your load when/if you’re towing..🤙🏼
tirepressure.com/35x12-50r17-tire-pressure Look at the load/inflation chart and inflate your tire according to your load. I agree, 80 is unnecessary for most driving conditions, but it could be necessary if you’re towing. And.
This is great information and I run Cooper 295/70/17 which says max PSi is 80 and seeing that most posts here are in the 30 PSI range, is it odd to be so far off from the Cooper max of 80 PSI?
you have to remember that the tires are not based what vehicle they go on, but rather the capability of load at a certain pressure… You should always inflate according to your load… If you are not hauling or driving I heavy vehicle, Then the maximum tire pressure should be what is rated on the door jamb as a reference, from there you can decrease the pressure to your comfort or as you see preferable contact with the road. More than likely an 80 psi rated tire is a load range E, which is ideal for 3/4 ton and 1 ton vehicles And will have an outstanding load rating over range C and range D by comparison.
Bad ass!! You bet! I’m actually in the process of doing a 50k mile (actually 56k mile) review on my BFG KO2 all terrains.. i rolled 28-32psi and rotated every 5000 miles.. should be a pretty cool video. I’ll show everywhere the tires have taken us. 🤝
@@GatorOverland you did a great job on this video and I'm not being sarcastic, 90% on people here can't do a clean video like this including me 😆. You even have the chapters all set up too!
This is not correct. What happens when the tyre heats up? Forget the chalk. If your pressure difference is less than 4psi from cold to hot, you are in the ball park
The chalk test is only a reference for tire contact patch and applies to most tires.. it’s not a standard. All tires heat up, which increases the pressure…you do the test cold to avoid being over inflated when it gets warm. If youre already at max rated pressure as cold it could be unsafe to heat up the tire and further increase the pressure. But you’re right, a 4psi increase is negligible.
There is also a mathematical equation for GVWR and over sized tires. I run 25-27, 35 12:50 18. On 18 x 10 wheels. Toyo AT. 40k and will have no problem hitting 65k. I also rotate about every 3k miles. Thanks for video.
Absolutely.. you should always fill your tires to the optimum pressure of your load.. this is for Normal driving.. As long as the pressure you fill to is capable of the load you’re doing you will be fine.. Google your tire to load to pressure ratings for the manufacture.. my 37’s at 25psi are rated for 2150lbs.. my truck is 5000lbs, my tire setting is more than sufficient..but, I’d I was to pull a load, I would inflate to a safe pressure for the load.
Was an auto tech. 17 years & never heard of this. I always filled my tires to the recommended max for increased fuel economy. I’m just curious on how this text would change if done under hi speed. I assume the center might expand out due to centrifugal forces which means letting even more air out?
This is more or less a convenient method to find proper tire wear when you are unsure of what pressure to run after installing aftermarket wheels or tires… Running at the max pressure is not good in some cases because the tire increases in pressure as they heat up which could put it over the max pressure writing… running the manufactured specified pressure on the door jam is only relevant to the stock configuration. Doing a chalk test just confirms your pattern.. it’s the drivers discretion on how much or a little further pattern preference.. yes, centrifugal force does play into the game of pressure, but that is a variable that is constantly changing.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. The info you have provided may work for some folks/vehicle applications, but I wouldn’t advise that max inflation approach. However I do agree the tire mfg pressure/inflation chart should be referred to for determining an allowable range for normal driving and/or load
Its too bad they dont make more pizza cutters, Id love a 35-37in tire thats skinny with highway tread. Most of them stop around 29-32in. These taller tires just last so much longer for me, which is a big deal with all the new tires having way too much Silica, which wears and tears faster than a natural rubber.
I’m actually watching this for the first time because I just got my 37s on the 4xE. They feel a tiny bit out of balance on the highway and feels like the alignment is slightly off, even though nothing else changed.
Thats’s very possible.. my alignment was 7/32 toe from factory.. 0-3/32” is max.. drove incredible after the tow was adjusted .. I have 2.75” lift with geometry relocation brackets that put me at the ideal 6.5deg caster.. anything less than 5deg needs attention with the bracket Or adjustable lower control arms. I track like a cloud on a set of rails.. let me know if you have any questions
Thanks for the video! I have not been able to get a straight answer at any tire company as to how to find out the correct pressure on all-terrain tires. Each one of them seem to just guess.
I Did The Stock Tire Pressure Vs Stock Tire Load Index. Then Referenced The Load Rating Across What It Would Be For My New Tires Load Index To Find The Correct PSI. I Do Want To Test This Chalk Method On It And See How It Does Becasue My Tires Are Much Wider Than Stock.
Width, height, ply type, load rating, style of tire, temp, actual load.. all are a variable of the tire pressure.. as soon as you change one or a few of this variables you potentially deviate from the mfg suggested designed for the tires that come as stock. Always adjust your tires when they are cold/ambient temp or rested for 3-4hrs
I tried this method of determining proper tire pressure for my car, a Honda Accord. The sticker on the driver’s door pillar calls for 32psi. I chalked and ran 25, chalked and ran 35, chalked and ran 30. The amount of chalk remaining in the shoulders was exactly the same. I guess that’s why I see this “chalk method” demonstrated on UA-cam mostly with Jeeps and light trucks, not on sedans or coupes
It’s merely a reference, not a concrete guideline… If you’re running the same size tires that the car manufacturer recommends then there’s no need to talk to ask other than your understanding of how much tire is touching the ground
I'm running 37x12.5R17s on my wrangler and am down to 25 psi and still the outer lugs are not getting road contact. What are your thoughts? Keep lowering little by little until even? Tires are ironman all country M/Ts. Thank you
There are a bunch of variables to consider when it comes to your tires and the air pressure… Ideally I would not recommend going much slower than 25 psi, but you need to refer to the tire manufacturer specifications to see what the proper range is for inflation… What width is your wheel? If the mud terrain is a really thick ply you may never achieve a full patch pattern, that tire may even be a crown tire like a Patagonia… I would say even if you are not contacting on the outside to keep it around 27 to 30 psi
You bet man! Just make sure you check your tire mfg. inflation/load chart so you know your min and max inflation is within whatever your load capabilities are, especially if you’re towing. My BFG’s are good between 25-50 psi. I don’t tow, so I run them at 28-30psi and the chalk test proves worthy.. 🤘🏼
Great video. What tires did you go with? I'm debating between 35 and 37s. How tall is your gladiator with the mopar lift and 37s. I would like my gladiator to still fit in my garage lol. Thanks!
Hmm. Not sure. 7psi down from 37 to 30 is big! Plus you have to remember that tire wear on outer sides of tires wear quicker if you drive roundabouts so. You would like to put more than 30 to ensure roundabouts do not destroy you tire wear. This logic would apply on straight drive only and slow speeds.
I tend to agree with you for what you said… Constant Roundabouts is going to wear any tire, some faster than others… The video is based on finding an ideal pressure when you go away from a stock configuration… When you change wheel size diameter or width or increase the tire size diameter and width many variables change which do not match the original specified tire pressure, and in some cases could contribute to premature wear. The final pressure is to the discretion of the end user, the chalk test is a reference to visibly see The performance of your assumed pressure, and allowing you to Increase or decrease for the ideal contact patch… Some configurations may not change such as you have listed… Bigger tires with more ply sidewall will be stiffer and therefore require less pressure to maintain the same pattern across the road… Too many variables to list, but this test can help narrow down a ideal pressure.
@@GatorOverland Intruiging. Surely is! I had Michelin Pilot 3 tires in MB S-class and MB said tires are no linger road worthy! Rear tires were off in the middle and front in outer sides due to roundabouts. Well i thought. Now I have brand new Michelin 4S. Door sticker tells FRONT 29-32 psi and REAR 33-36 psi not loaded and loaded retrospectively. Front 255/40/19 and rear 275/40/19 Bob Jane T mart pumped all 4 to 40psi !! And Mercedes service set it down to 30 front and 32 rear. The ride comfort is great at MB settings and horrible at BOB J T Mart 40 psi!! I will do the test !! I have a feeling rear may well be overinflated at 33 and front under inflated at 30. (Cold).
Another thing to consider depending on vehicle, wheel and tire size. Because of the weight distribution from front to back and caster setting (how much the front wheels lean when turned). For example the tires on my old truck likes 42psi in the front and 32 in the back for even wear. I don't bother rotating them because they wear even at that psi.
Absolutely it will change per vehicle and other variables associated with weight and tire and wheel… This is just a way to see what’s going on and adjust as you see fit
@@GatorOverland something I ment to highlight and kinda got side tracked lol on most vehicles the front wheels aren't perfectly straight up and lean even more when turning so tends to wear more on the shoulders of the tire. That's why I run more psi in the front. On the back if you have a straight axle you may want to run less than level than what the test shows because the center of the tire gets taller at highway speeds. I would assume vehicles with independent rear suspension might like similar to front air pressure.
Very true. Camber will definitely have some effects on what tire pressure you run. With the chalk you can visualize it’s contact patch and inflate to your discretion
Forgive me Gator, but what final pressures did you arrive at after your second chalk run? I hear you say "30psi, 37 12 50" toward the end of your video, so I'm confused!
The lowest road pressure I ever needed for a tire to have full width contract are the TRXUS STS. 20psi. When I ran at 30, the middle wore out way too fast. Lost wet traction too. Switched to TRUX MT after that.
I run mine at 25 to 27 psi now… I left it at 30 for the video because it was acceptable for the chalk test… But not everybody would want to invest in a programmer to drop TPMS threshold below the factory setting
This is actually very helpful. Someone told me about how to check ur tires are well inflated. I got a 2015 lifted Scion xB with 215/70/16 toyo open country A/T III. So this will definitely be a very simple handy tool. Thanks for the tip 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Yes, just at the edge of the tread where it breaks over and turns from lug to side wall.. contacting up to that break over point is the test.. riding on the middle portion of your tread is not ideal unless your running milestar Patagonia’s
Very helpfull, thank you. You touched very briefly on the subject of adjusting the Tire Pressure Monitor System in the Jeep to a different threshold. I just upgraded my stock JL tires to 33 inch tires and the shop has them set at 38 psi. I want to do the chalk test, but I am afraid that the TPMS system will complain if I set it any lower than the factory specs, how does one reset those thresholds?
Great question! The pressure sensor threshold starts “low tire” notification @29 psi and will not reset until you re-inflate to 37 psi.. you will be fine down to 30-32 psi, but if you have a cold snap it could potentially allow the pressure to go below the 29psi threshold.. I use the ECRI module/app and have accounted for my tire size increase to 37 and lowered my threshold to 25psi.. I run my 37’s at 28-30psi.. ecri.app/products/ecri-wireless-vehicle-calibration-device Let me know if you have any more questions
Even for regular sized ties, adjusting the pressure for the load improves the ride. On my RAM 2500 I use the same tires that would be specified for a RAM 1500. This allows mw to lower the pressure down to safe pressures for the light duty tires without fear of rim leaks. If I want to carry up to 1000 lbs. I inflate the tires to their maximum pressure which is still be well below the heavy duty tires. When I put the camper on the truck I replace the wheels with ones with load range E tires to handle the extra 2000 lbs.
Need to do this test on my duratracs. Going to sound crazy, but I have my dura tracks at almost 50 psi, I used to have my old nitto trail grapplers at 30 psi and the duratracs ride smoother.
The chalk test should prove the ideal pressure. Depending on the tire size and ply , wheel size and width, the pressure variable could be vast between tire brands. I know the duratrac are known for being stiff high pressure tire in some configurations.
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
Awesome video, new tire guy learning and researching this stuff. Crazy how stock you were given seventeen high! Such a trip! definitely good info for me to pass on to customers!
Most definitely cold to be the most accurate for any tire pressure adjustment. Most tire sidewalls will note min. And max pressure (cold).. thermal expansion will increase pressures and you don’t want to be to far above or below the max and min pressures. I run my 37’s at 28 psi cold and they typically increase to 30-32psi when warm.. hope this helps 👍🏼
Great, your tires have even contact with the ground and the jeep rides like a cloud....now the real question: why was your shirt inside out at the beginning 🤔🤣😁 good video though..doing this to mine in the morning.
Am I the only one who noticed how nice a finish those tires had 🤙 Would love to know the dressing you used. I’m trying Adam’s graphite now and it seems pretty matte but would love to k ow what you use😊
I don't use any shine either, (Simple Green, LA's totally awesome yellow degreaser, or Wesley's Bleche White) just creates more build up and living in SoCal, almost every tire I've seen with lots of shine are more dry rotted than just clean tires.
You want nice tires and want them to stay nice. Clean them very well with degreaser. Use Chemical Guys tire shine. Let it dry well before driving the car. Give them a second coat if you want. Let it dry well. Then go over the tire with a clean microfibre cloth to kinda buff that finish. Once your done. Spray over that with hairspray. The cheapest one you can find. I buy it at the dollar store for $3 a can. Do this on a clam day. Wind is your enemy here. Put it on as if you were using spray paint…a few light coats dries almost instantly. After application do not rub or touch. Let it dry and your done. Should last indefinitely. When you wash the car don’t use harsh soap on the rubber and it won’t wash off either. It’s basically lacquer and will eventually wear off. Just don’t overspray onto the paint. Hairspray dries almost instantly so you might use the whole can depending on your technique. Don’t get too close or it will run and not too far or you’ll miss the rubber. My best advice is to practice on a tire other than the ones on your car to perfect the process. Good luck!
Thanks for the great video...very glad I watched it, as all the "how-to's" I read online led me to believe I needed to look at the chalk mark left behind on the road by the tire, not on the tire itself. That would have been a problem. ;0)
Absolutely… Happy to help.. just make sure you do it when they’re cold, and or sitting for 2 to 4 hours before adjusting. You’ll also want to double check your tire manufactures load to inflation ratings to make sure it’s adequate for the loads of your vehicle and or towing… Obviously you want to be running optimum pressure if you’re towing🤘🏼
Thanks for the video
Please remember you want to do this with hot tires. If you do it at cold, you'll then air down about 10% as the tire pressure goes up during operation.
Yes, pressures should always be adjusted when cold. I currently have them set at 27psi, and they typically rise to 30-31 psi after they warm up
Thanks for the informative video and for calling out the difference with Patagonias as that is what I'm planning to run
You bet! They are a great tire, but tire pressure is crucial for proper wear and performance of that tire. They are surprisingly quiet on the highway. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! 🤘🏼
I purchased a set of Mickey Thompson “35”s and they measure 34” 🤦🏻♂️ I run them at 32 PSI but will do this test tomorrow thanks man! 👍🏻
No biggie, that is probably a good pressure in general.. just make sure you readjust the pressure to optimum for your load before you tow..
Gator_Overland yeap I will for sure thanks.
The door sticker is for stock size tires only... changing tires negates the sticker.
Your stock tires had 47pssi because they were filled to 37psi on a cold day and when they warm up the air expands.
Exactly. I agree the tire pressure increases with heat or increase in ambient temperature, but not 10°… My tires commonly increase 3°-5 degree on the highway from friction. They overfill them from the factory… Commonly 40+ psi.. it’s just something to be aware of.
@@GatorOverland They filled them that high so they wouldn't be flat by the time the car hauler dropped them off at the dealer. The leakiest tire you will ever find (without some puncture) is a new tire. beads are not fully seated until the tire warms up for a bit.
That's a great test for low speeds. However, I suspect that at highway speeds where heat cause tire pressure increases and changes the tire shape might nullify the low speed results. Just a thought... Beautiful Jeep BTW!
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. It’s relative throughout the range of tire temp. If you’re too high to begin with, then you will be too high after they heat up, and potentially over pressured. This test is a reference for tire pressure, and up to the discretion of the user to determine. I’m at 48k with the tires seen in the video and wearing perfectly with no abnormal wearing. I range between 30 & 35psi on the highway.
@@GatorOverland Thanks for the update! 48K-- That's good to know. On my old Ranger, I've been running 35-psi in Duratracks and think I might drop down to 30. Looking forward to trying the chalk test, as it feels like I'm on the over inflated side with 35. My tire size is quite a bit smaller (235/75/15) so I don't expect a super plush ride, just looking to get the most life out of the tires~
That’s what it’s all about in the end, finding a happy medium for comfort and tire life. These tires cost too much to not pay attention to. My BFG’s are a 50k tire and I’m confident I’ll get a good 55k out then with safe room to spare. I rotate religiously at 5000miles. Then test is the same but, vehicle weight, tire size, tire ratings (plus), wheel width, temperature, are all variables that effect tire pressure to patch contact..
your tire on a 8” wide wheel at 30psi will have a different contact patch than a 7.5” wheel at 30psi.. just use your judgement.. like you said, the tire heats up and the pressure increase.. test cold and double check the warm contact patch as well..
You should google your tire load/pressure rating to know your range of pressure and what the load capacity is for that pressure.
That's a sick gladiator!
Thanks Doug… It’s brought us to a lot of really cool places
I've been using the chalk method for over 15 years. Your explanation is dead on! My only suggestion is to apply the chalk at 3 different places around the tread. Tires are often not exactly round, so checking it at several locations can even things out.
People don't seem to realize that one size of tire can be used on many different vehicles that can weigh several hundreds of pounds different from one another. The chalk method can dial in the exact pressure you need for your application.
Exactly! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Right. And even going from 29.5 tires to 30.5 for the Cherokee Trailhawk (you can go to 32 with minor mods) if you look at the load tables you'll see that 31 PSI will hold the same weight in a 265 65 17 as a 245 65 17 holds with 36 psi.
37 is REALLY high for the Wrangler IMHO.
It seems like every year tire pressures go up higher and higher (likely for fuel economy reasons).
I would say that a 37 with 30 PSI will hold very substantial loads, probably still far beyond the stock tires. A load table might even say 22 is ok . Maybe for off road is do that .... but it gets to a point where even though you can hold the load , it's too "squishy"
All these things are good references but still I feel all roads lead back to chalk.
I'll check it out tomorrow. Pretty sure I'll chalk between 30 and 33 psi.
Excellent
🤘🏼.. make sure you do it when they are cold for best results
When my jeep yj was basically stock on 31's 23psi front & 21psi rear was even wear. Sao and 35's. Well they just sit at 7psi now on the trailer.. it happens
That was cool. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Great instructional video. I am really surprised the unloaded diameter is so small. The spec says they measure 36.5”. Curious on the choice of stock rims. The BFG site says minimum rim width of 8.5” not 7.5”. Also although I like keeping the rim offset the same for better steering, don’t you end up with some contact when turning tight due to the extra diameter and width?
Yes, the mfg height is based on the widest wheel at max pressure.. every variable will change the final height
Pressure, weight, wheel width, temp
BFG’s are rates for 7.5 min
www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2
EXCELLENT!!!!
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
Thank you 🙏
🤝🤝🤘🏼🤘🏼
Question. I'm doing exactly as you said w the chalk. I just got 37" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T. The shop inflated them accordingly.
Pass rear 47.6 lbs
Driver rear 36.7 lbs
Driver front 34 8 lbs
Pass front 34.8 lbs
The chalk test has me down to 26 lbs all the way around. I'm almost hitting flat across, except the 1/2" outside edges. How low do you think I can or should go before to low of air pressure.
That’s a great question and depending on the amount of ply of your tires, The width of the wheel, can affect the amount of deflation required… Just because it’s not touching all the way across does not necessarily mean it is not proper contact but more or less a guideline… You should refer to your tire inflation load chart, but for your tire 37x12.50 are 25 to 80 psi depending on load range c to f, very similar to my 25-50 BFG’s and I have ran them from 27 to 32 psi over the course of their 57,000 mile life (thus far).. I would venture to say not going much less than 27 psi for normal highway… 28 to 32 would be a good roundabout number… Anything is better than 47 psi 😂😂..
Do you know if the TSB upgrade/issue applies to the 2020 JL Wrangler Rubicon? I bought one last summer with 14 km on it and then did a huge 3000km road trip through the BC mountains. It now has 10190km and I have not experienced said issue so I'm jw! Thanks and btw nice Gladiator👍🏼
It absolutely does!
Just had mine done 2 weeks ago.. it made an unbelievable difference. I love it!
Those BFG 37's are just 1" taller then my 34's. That sucks!
Yes, unfortunately they run smaller along with 3 or 4 other major brands.. they still do the job though 🤘🏼
Is there an ideal speed to run this test...? I did the test, but not in an ideal way. I think it's pretty close, but am going to do it again when I get a chance.
It’s only a reference.. as long as you test cold you’re good.. idle rolling speed is fine.
I just run around with 10 psi in all 4 in case I get a wild hair...
If I never touched pavement you can bet I’d be at 10-12psi full time. Running that low on Highway at high speed is going to potentially ruin the tread and sidewall of those tires in a short time frame.
@@GatorOverland You are 100% right Gator, remember all the plies are on the tread, low tire pressure puts more strain on the sidewall, low pressure will heat the sidewall until the sidewall fails and you are trying to figure out how to replace more than One tire with a single spare. Try this, drive 20 miles on pavement, with 10 psi, then get out and use a digital thermometer to check the temperature of the side wall, then you'll understand. ASE Retired mechanic with 40 years experience-----Great video.
🤘🏼
My truck rarely sees highway use, and when it does I air back up. I live 3 miles from work, 1 mile from the grocery store and gas station, and a half mile from the trail head.
Tire pressure light at 30 psi?
Depends on the model. Mine kicked on at 29psi from factory. I used a programmer to adjust the tire size and lower the TPMS threshold to 25psi
@@GatorOverland what programmer did you use? I’m debating on pulling the trigger on a tazer mini lite
Double check your tire mfg. load/pressure ratings to make sure you’re in acceptable range for what you do with your vehicle. You obviously want to run tires at optimum pressure if you’re towing. I chalk tested my 37” BFG KO2’s @ 28-30psi cold. Keep in mind that you’re tires pressure can vary up or down based on ambient temps. Your “low tire”pressure dummy light is activated at 29psi or below, and the dummy light will not clear until you reinflate to the pressure stated on the dash (typically 36-37psi). You will need to flash your computer to lower TPMS “low pressure” threshold. If you’ve upgraded to 35/37’s and/or regeared you should flash for those changes as well, especially if your are automatic, and most definitely before you tow. If you have the stock 4.10’s you will be 6mph (+\-) off and your shift points will not be optimal and fuel mileage will be off. Tire size input should be the distance from the ground to the approx center of your wheel multiplied by 2.. my 37’s measure 17.25” from ground to wheel center. 17.25”x2= 34.50” tire size input and its spot on! Tazers cost $300+, dealerships will charge $150 to flash. I use the ECRI programmer and it works like a champ for all the above adjustments and cost about $80 for the unit and $50 per vehicle to activate and can be married to multiple vehicles at one time and uses a simple phone app to adjust everything.
ECRI Vehicle Calibration Device with Security Bypass Module - Fits Jeep Wrangler JL & Gladiator JT - Requires in-APP Purchase PER Vehicle www.amazon.com/dp/B082T48ZVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_iV44Fb0CW3RA9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No way I’d run 30 or 32 psi in my tires. Few years ago ford explorers huge lawsuit for 32 psi in tires also after tires heat up your psi NOT same your chalk wear won’t be same I don’t want my truck wiggling all over road 40 psi cold hot texas day they hit 45
It’s definitely not a golden rule, but it will get you in the general vicinity of ideal pressure when you deviate from stock wheels and/or tires. The mfg recommended tire pressure ratings would no longer be relevant.
38k on the KO2’s on the video at 30psi.. no issues to date.. I don’t expect any either
Do the chalk test when the tires are warm and the Explorer fiasco was really a Firestone tire issue.
That’s exactly right ..
Yes & no. The 37 PSI from the factory would be more useful for a wider range of load. Your method is only good for when your car is unloaded. Another thing you miss is not every tire tread are designed to be flat across. Secondly a lower PSI will soften your sidewall which will affect your cornering stability. Your method work best when the tires that you choose has a flat tread from shoulder to shoulder & when you're a slow driver. But I could be wrong. Great content.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You make some great points, and you are correct, this concept isn’t for everyone and is only meant as a reference. It’s to your discretion what pressure you use. My video is to reference for daily driving… Tire pressures should always be inflated to match your vehicles weight or load.
The only critique I have is a minor one, just something people tend to do a lot in videos that I find annoying; the video title told us what the topic was-- there was no need to spend the first two minutes or so "teasing" us with the infomercial-style "would you like to know...?" and then revealing the chalk as if we didn't already know it was coming. Otherwise, nicely done. I've known about this for years. Even mentioned it recently in a comment elsewhere. But this is the first video I've seen on it.
Very cool, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. yes, the prolonged portion is a bit dramatic. I’m trying to make more simple and concise videos in future. I just want even the laymens to understand.
@@GatorOverland you do a fine job. I look forward to more videos. I'm a fellow Texan, thinking about setting up my truck for overlanding. But many other things to deal with before that.
Always good to hear from a neighbor.. 🤝... I’m from the Beaumont area... feel free to contact me via Facebook, insta, or email.. I’d be happy to share camp locations and info with you. For better contact, info, photos and video check us out on
facebook.com/JKHartel3
instagram.com/p/CF-X_58BjDR/?igshid=1r9yo0niyroip
Hawkijon@aol.com
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the headlight adjustment pitch. So many folks neglect this
Absolutely! I even adjust mine when towing or loaded with overland gear.. too easy not to do to save opposing traffic some headache or danger
No thumbs down! Because it was a excellent video!
Thumbs up or down, i appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. I hope you learned something in the least. 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Of course there would be 9 thumbs down probably just cause of your comment
You have me wondering now, Which comment would that be?
@@GatorOverland nice content .. i dont see any reason why give this video a thumbs down
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. I guess not everyone finds it helpful or interesting.. It’d help me learn to turn them thumbs up for future videos if they explained why 😂🤷🏼♂️
Great detail. Left sitting here wondering how I haven’t heard of this all these years. 👍🏼
😉… pay it forward.. it makes all the difference
I think the pressure on the door, is for factory mpg test and safe to carry max load. But I should point out that, while driving, the weight will transfer, so some situations the tire will carry more load than in the test, like higher speed cornering, breaking... so I would suggest add at least 2-3 psi after a perfect test, and once have heavy load or max load, back to the psi on the door if stock tires/ use inflation table for new size tires . ✌🏻Jeep wave here~
You’re exactly right.. 🤘🏼
Chalk test for general use. What about off road, snow, mud, rock, gravel trails?
It’s all to your general discretion… Every tire size performs differently per inflation, and on top of that the vehicle weight will have a role in it as well. For hardback sand and gravel trails I typically start out about 10 psi below my normal street pressure… For rocks, mud and deep snow I typically go just above single digit psi, 10-15.. in the end it’s what you’re comfortable with for the conditions
Very good. But did you take into account what the role dynamics of speed would play in the test? I'm thinking at 65 mph, the center of the tire may bulge out from the centrifugal forces.
I suppose it may be a moot point as the handling characteristics would be the litmus test, however subjective that might be...
Thanks for mentioning the importance of aiming headlights. Today's vehicle lighting engineers clearly never travel in areas where there are no street lights, otherwise they would realize these crazy bright new headlights are doing more harm than good.
sincerely-
someone who lives on a winding country road.
😂😂🤘🏼.. you’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting
Excellent presentation
But…
Drive your vehicle for about 5 min first to warn tires up to operating temp before adjusting.
If you don’t..and do it cold ..as you warm up it will expand and show center tire wear as opposed to even.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… it’s totally to your discretion.
It is advised on many vetted outlets to adjust tire pressure as “cold”/ambient temp or 4hours after driving.
Tire pressure typically increases 1 psi per 10deg increase in tire temp.
@@GatorOverland great point 👍
🤝
Nitrogen fixes that issue friend
The video starts at 5:00 you are welcome
😂😂 that’s right! Just wanted to make sure even the most uninformed understood before getting into it. The video is time stamped for your convenience
I have been looking for this for ever... And it was so easy. Thanks.
Wow. What a difference. I just bought a used 2016 jeep with 34s from a dealer. They had 44psi in the rear 39psi in the front. Dropped everything to 33psi. I didn’t finish because it got dark but I went for a ride… it’s like a completely different vehicle. Way way better ride.
That’s what it’s all about… Thanks for the follow up
Gotta watch p-metric vs LT tires. Also you need to take into account loads/usage especially for trucks.
Those black things you twist off the tire vale’s are called caps, not stems. The stems are inside the valves, under the caps.
Yes, that’s correct.. sometimes when I do videos the brain says what it wants to say and when I see it back I realize it, hoping no one notices. But in this case, thankfully it’s just a valve cap error. You’re the first person point that out since posting years ago..
try find where I have my shirt on inside out because I put it on when it was dark.
I took the stems out and all my air came out. Lol
Can you share this with the folks at the dealership!!! They need training!! This answered my question I've been asking them for years!!! Thank you!!!
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 love hearing that! That’s the difference between going by spec versus going by visible confirmation… Not all wheels and tires are created equal and thus no one pressure is correct, some pressures are better than others and it’s up to your discretion to decide what pressure works for you.. the chalk test just confirms that you’re not too much and not to under inflated
Rotational mass and rim offset if not correct will get a new set of wheel bearings fast again and again. tires are again another animal
Tire pressure changes from day to day drive to drive. The pressure can change from morning to mid day to night.
Park your car with one side in full sun and the other in shade and the pressure is uneven.
The speed you’re driving can also change the contact surface area of the tire.
The tire bulges in the centre more than the shoulder at high speed.
I’m not sold on the chalk test.
At different speeds I’m sure you will have different tire wear without changing pressure.
You drove a hundred feet at 10 mph not what I would call conclusive evidence.
You’re exactly right… And the chalk test is a general form of reference, nothing more… It’s to give you an idea of the pressure at cold ambient temperature… Your tire pressure increases about 1 psi per every 10° increase temperature… if the pressure in the sun is slightly different from what the pressure is from one side to the other they should be similar at highway speeds when driven… The idea is to not be over pressured when driving, and ideally having the majority of the contact patch On the road. Again, this is for reference only.. different vehicles will yield different results at the same pressures, that’s why you talk test so you know how it’s contacting at a specific pressure your vehicle.. A Ford F250 running 37s at 30 psi is going to contact differently than a jeep Wrangler with 37s at 30 psi because weight alone.. what an F250 driver would advise may not apply to a Wrangler driver… that’s why you reference with a chalk test to see if the information works for you.. if 30 PSI satisfies your contact patch and comfort then all is well.. it’s to your discretion to inflate or deflate from there.
Another factor can be urban or rural road drive and off-roads drive. Urban roads can have some unavoidable pits which cannot always be avoided. Keeping in view of the above, tire pressure is somewhat subjective according to the type of vehicle as well
@awaisiqbal8934 100%
10 pounds per wheel is a huge difference , you need to remember wheels are a rotational mass
You’re absolutely correct!
That's the most informative thing i've seen in a while! going to use that trick for ALL of my cars.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment… Make sure you check the manufacture tire pressure ranges to know that you are good for the pressure… And always air to the optimum pressure if towing..
40 lbs is not bad until you remember its rotational mass.
Very true.. in the end it all adds up. That’s where having the rubicon or tow package with the bigger brakes comes in handy and/or investing in proper brake upgrades and differential regear at minimum to account for the additional rotational mass. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏼
@@GatorOverland I just got ALL Terrains BFGoodrich KO2S. Installer set to 39 psi. I drive a Chevy G20 Sportsvan conversion. I believe 33 is suggested psi for 225/75r15. I upgraded to LT235/75r15s. Where should I be ?
I would start out with at least what’s on the door jamb…you need to pay attention to what your vehicle is capable of towing so you know what your max PSI needs to be for that load…The chalk test will prove, but I found yeah ideal confort pressure per chalk test to be about 5 psi below door jam pressure, , But the weight of the vehicle and the width of the tire and wheel all make different variables.
www.bfgoodrichtires.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-bfgoodrich-us-Library/default/dwa4dc4a41/pdf/changetireSize/420bcacc-01bf-42c9-840e-55344685c842.pdf
Awesome video & tips man, thank you!
1st time Jeep owner here! I’ve wanted a Jeep ever since I was a kid & finally got my 2012 JKU ABOUT 2.5 weeks ago! I’m still feeling/figuring things out. It felt to me that the steering could be a bit loose feeling or jerky I don’t know exactly how to describe it, as well as seeming to pull to the right a little bit. I assumed at 1st that it probably needed an alignment since it hasn’t had state inspection in MD yet (where they do more stringent 1 & done type of inspections as oppose to more lenient WV yearly inspections, where I bought it & it still had the temp tags from) but when I checked tire pressure to make sure I didn’t have a leak (though no visible flats), I found that both right tires had 35psi & both left were had 37psi. So I just now evened them all @ 35 & am getting ready to see how much if any of a difference only
2psi might make to cause the steering feeling & pulling right like it may if they were significantly more flat on the right.
Strange thing is you’d think I need to come down to say 30psi all around but according to what you were saying in chalk test (unless I misunderstood), if the west is on outside then I need to increase psi? So mine are more worn on outside then center of the tires so I’m confused what could be going on with them? Door reccomends 35psi stock & I currently have the stock size GoodYear Wranglers on it, that it came with from the used dealership. (which I think is the tire what they come with from the factory)... anyway I guess what I’m asking is yours & other people’s thoughts on what my issue might be. Also I’m having a hell of a time adjusting my headlights. It’s like I can’t get them even close to correct. It’s either right one pointed 45° outward & 45° upward toward the tops of trees🤦🏽♂️ & left is pointed downward where the right should be pointed. Or they both are pointed 45° outward & I’m blinding with my left. Seems like I should be able to do better without having to pay someone I can usually perform most basic vehicle repairs installs etc. I even went & bought those dumb sylvanianZXEs cuz I thought @ 1st that I just couldn’t see cuz the dim basic Bulbs it came with. Waste of $60 cuz for $$50 more could have got LED with lens & sometimes find with LED Fog lights on Amazon for $100-$120 which I’ve never had LED Fog lights so not sure if you have to aim them also or if they already aimed correctly... so, I’m worried about that too being a waste if I then can’t aim them.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. If your wear is on the outside of the tire you are under inflated.. if you are wearing on the middle of the tire you are over inflated.. you want even contact.. the door jamb is optimum pressure for your factory sized tires.. you should probably test between 32-35 psi to see the contact.. as far as your headlights you may need to UA-cam JK specific headlight adjustment
Had a Ford dealership sell me a car once, assured me its been through a 100point inspection. 1 tire was 17psi, another about 22psi and two others under 15psi. Had all the gunk in the radiator, was 99% blockage.
Damn.. should have had a 105 point inspection to include those items😂
@@GatorOverland Same dealership had a desk worker back the car into the garage, hit a pole on the way in. Said the bumper was always like that :P
I thought that was the last of it, I found some papers they had sent 6 years later, showing they would be selling all of my personal information, to private and 3rd party individuals. No wonder I had Identity theft at 19 when I only used cash everywhere I went.
Chalk test starts at 4:30
😂 i get that a lot.. sorry about that. Just trying to be informative for those who don’t have previous knowledge. I’m trying to be more concise with my video, and possibly leave forecast text for people to skip forward if they need too. Once it’s loaded, i can’t edit it. More content coming soon.
Thanks for this tip/ trick , just put a new set of BF KO2 on my jeep TJ . checked my tire pressure after watching this video and found that tire company did not have balanced tire pressure between tires ranging from 33 to 38 psi . Lesson - Just do not take their word the tire pressures are correct . At any rate I did a chalk test and my tires seem good at 33 psi and the jeep rides smoother . I plan to do a second test to fine tune when the weather is better .
😉 thanks for the reply Richard! Those tires are good between 25 and 50 psi on the highway, but Ideally between 30 and your door jamb pressure.. I chalk between 28 & 30 psi.. as long as your checking your base pressure when cold you’re fine.. obviously cold snaps will lower the pressure slightly, but it will warm and increase as you drive. Remember to put them to optimum pressure for your load when/if you’re towing..🤙🏼
Got a set of KO3s coming in sat. 80 psi on the rear of my superduty seems unnecessary. Doing this immediately. Thanks.
tirepressure.com/35x12-50r17-tire-pressure
Look at the load/inflation chart and inflate your tire according to your load. I agree, 80 is unnecessary for most driving conditions, but it could be necessary if you’re towing. And.
Looking forward to hearing about the KO3 performance
This is great information and I run Cooper 295/70/17 which says max PSi is 80 and seeing that most posts here are in the 30 PSI range, is it odd to be so far off from the Cooper max of 80 PSI?
you have to remember that the tires are not based what vehicle they go on, but rather the capability of load at a certain pressure… You should always inflate according to your load… If you are not hauling or driving I heavy vehicle, Then the maximum tire pressure should be what is rated on the door jamb as a reference, from there you can decrease the pressure to your comfort or as you see preferable contact with the road. More than likely an 80 psi rated tire is a load range E, which is ideal for 3/4 ton and 1 ton vehicles And will have an outstanding load rating over range C and range D by comparison.
Just picked up my 2023 extreme recon today. Tires are at 40. Way to hard. Thank you for the info I’ll be doing chalk test tomorrow
Bad ass!! You bet! I’m actually in the process of doing a 50k mile (actually 56k mile) review on my BFG KO2 all terrains.. i rolled 28-32psi and rotated every 5000 miles.. should be a pretty cool video. I’ll show everywhere the tires have taken us. 🤝
Very helpful information!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Just get to the chalk test, will ya?!?!
😂😂🤘🏼.. feel free to fast forward.. I explain thoroughly for the laymen’s out there..
4:23
I feel ya this could have been a 5 minute video
@@GatorOverland you did a great job on this video and I'm not being sarcastic, 90% on people here can't do a clean video like this including me 😆. You even have the chapters all set up too!
I appreciate that.. more to come soon!🤝
This is not correct. What happens when the tyre heats up? Forget the chalk. If your pressure difference is less than 4psi from cold to hot, you are in the ball park
The chalk test is only a reference for tire contact patch and applies to most tires.. it’s not a standard. All tires heat up, which increases the pressure…you do the test cold to avoid being over inflated when it gets warm. If youre already at max rated pressure as cold it could be unsafe to heat up the tire and further increase the pressure. But you’re right, a 4psi increase is negligible.
There is also a mathematical equation for GVWR and over sized tires. I run 25-27, 35 12:50 18. On 18 x 10 wheels. Toyo AT. 40k and will have no problem hitting 65k. I also rotate about every 3k miles. Thanks for video.
Would that test have a different outcome if the truck was loaded up with the weight it was rated to tow or carry?
Absolutely.. you should always fill your tires to the optimum pressure of your load.. this is for Normal driving.. As long as the pressure you fill to is capable of the load you’re doing you will be fine.. Google your tire to load to pressure ratings for the manufacture.. my 37’s at 25psi are rated for 2150lbs.. my truck is 5000lbs, my tire setting is more than sufficient..but, I’d I was to pull a load, I would inflate to a safe pressure for the load.
Great work!!! Love the fact that you mention the difference with the Patagonia’s as well. 👍🏼
Thanks bud.. figured it was a good piece of knowledge to have.
Was an auto tech. 17 years & never heard of this. I always filled my tires to the recommended max for increased fuel economy. I’m just curious on how this text would change if done under hi speed. I assume the center might expand out due to centrifugal forces which means letting even more air out?
This is more or less a convenient method to find proper tire wear when you are unsure of what pressure to run after installing aftermarket wheels or tires… Running at the max pressure is not good in some cases because the tire increases in pressure as they heat up which could put it over the max pressure writing… running the manufactured specified pressure on the door jam is only relevant to the stock configuration. Doing a chalk test just confirms your pattern.. it’s the drivers discretion on how much or a little further pattern preference..
yes, centrifugal force does play into the game of pressure, but that is a variable that is constantly changing.
much easier to start with tire max PSI as listed on tire or on-line. easier to release pressure than air up.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
The info you have provided may work for some folks/vehicle applications, but I wouldn’t advise that max inflation approach. However I do agree the tire mfg pressure/inflation chart should be referred to for determining an allowable range for normal driving and/or load
Is the Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 as the Patagonia? Or I can use this method with it? Great and VERY useful vídeo bro!!!!
I believe Patagonia is the only tire like it. The chalk test should apply to your Yokohama’s 🤘🏼
Just subscribed is so informative and interesting
Thanks for taking the time to watch and subscribe, more content coming soon🤘🏼
You had mentioned milestars, thats what I had and switched to Ko2 so this helped remind me to check pressure for even wear this week.
Awesome!!!
Its too bad they dont make more pizza cutters, Id love a 35-37in tire thats skinny with highway tread. Most of them stop around 29-32in. These taller tires just last so much longer for me, which is a big deal with all the new tires having way too much Silica, which wears and tears faster than a natural rubber.
I’m actually watching this for the first time because I just got my 37s on the 4xE. They feel a tiny bit out of balance on the highway and feels like the alignment is slightly off, even though nothing else changed.
Thats’s very possible.. my alignment was 7/32 toe from factory.. 0-3/32” is max.. drove incredible after the tow was adjusted .. I have 2.75” lift with geometry relocation brackets that put me at the ideal 6.5deg caster.. anything less than 5deg needs attention with the bracket Or adjustable lower control arms. I track like a cloud on a set of rails.. let me know if you have any questions
@@GatorOverland mine was perfect until they put these tires and wheels on lol
@@GatorOverland video to come, I swear! Lol
Ill stay tuned
simple but amazing method, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.. make sure to check them cold or rested for 4 hrs
pretty useful info even for light offroading in cars with stock wheels
I was getting overinflation wear on my 1st gen tacoma, checked the door and the recommended pressure is 26psi!!!
😂
Thanks for the video! I have not been able to get a straight answer at any tire company as to how to find out the correct pressure on all-terrain tires. Each one of them seem to just guess.
Simple answer… it is a guess.. every vehicle application is different..find the pattern, and go from there
I Did The Stock Tire Pressure Vs Stock Tire Load Index. Then Referenced The Load Rating Across What It Would Be For My New Tires Load Index To Find The Correct PSI. I Do Want To Test This Chalk Method On It And See How It Does Becasue My Tires Are Much Wider Than Stock.
Width, height, ply type, load rating, style of tire, temp, actual load.. all are a variable of the tire pressure.. as soon as you change one or a few of this variables you potentially deviate from the mfg suggested designed for the tires that come as stock.
Always adjust your tires when they are cold/ambient temp or rested for 3-4hrs
I tried this method of determining proper tire pressure for my car, a Honda Accord. The sticker on the driver’s door pillar calls for 32psi.
I chalked and ran 25, chalked and ran 35, chalked and ran 30. The amount of chalk remaining in the shoulders was exactly the same.
I guess that’s why I see this “chalk method” demonstrated on UA-cam mostly with Jeeps and light trucks, not on sedans or coupes
It’s merely a reference, not a concrete guideline… If you’re running the same size tires that the car manufacturer recommends then there’s no need to talk to ask other than your understanding of how much tire is touching the ground
@@GatorOverland I see. So some of you re running after market sizes. Give the chalk back to the kids - there's a table for that!
I assume you want to get the tires up to running temp first, right? My tires are 35 psi when cold but reach 40 to 42 psi after driving a bit.
No, you want to do this as cold/ambient temp.. the tire pressure increases about 1psi per 10deg increase.
Awesome video sir!
Thank you!
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment
Thank you!! You are a GENIUS. By the way I can listen to you all day.
😂.. thanks, i don’t hear that often .. just paying it forward is all.
I'm running 37x12.5R17s on my wrangler and am down to 25 psi and still the outer lugs are not getting road contact. What are your thoughts? Keep lowering little by little until even? Tires are ironman all country M/Ts. Thank you
There are a bunch of variables to consider when it comes to your tires and the air pressure… Ideally I would not recommend going much slower than 25 psi, but you need to refer to the tire manufacturer specifications to see what the proper range is for inflation… What width is your wheel? If the mud terrain is a really thick ply you may never achieve a full patch pattern, that tire may even be a crown tire like a Patagonia… I would say even if you are not contacting on the outside to keep it around 27 to 30 psi
@@GatorOverland running pro comp 9x17s. I'll probably drop them to 23 and see how that goes and if not, I'll go back to 25 and call it good.
I did not know this easy method. This is happening real soon.
You bet man! Just make sure you check your tire mfg. inflation/load chart so you know your min and max inflation is within whatever your load capabilities are, especially if you’re towing. My BFG’s are good between 25-50 psi. I don’t tow, so I run them at 28-30psi and the chalk test proves worthy.. 🤘🏼
Full of knowledge 😊 thanks brother ❤
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 happy to help!!
Great video. What tires did you go with? I'm debating between 35 and 37s. How tall is your gladiator with the mopar lift and 37s. I would like my gladiator to still fit in my garage lol. Thanks!
Contact me outside of UA-cam JKHARTEL3@gmail.com or @gator_overland on insta.. I have photos and more info on your questions
Great life hack on getting the right tire pressure of diff car tires. Thank you sir this one helps a lot
You bet, thanks for taking the time to watch and comment…🤘🏼
Hmm. Not sure. 7psi down from 37 to 30 is big! Plus you have to remember that tire wear on outer sides of tires wear quicker if you drive roundabouts so. You would like to put more than 30 to ensure roundabouts do not destroy you tire wear.
This logic would apply on straight drive only and slow speeds.
I tend to agree with you for what you said… Constant Roundabouts is going to wear any tire, some faster than others… The video is based on finding an ideal pressure when you go away from a stock configuration… When you change wheel size diameter or width or increase the tire size diameter and width many variables change which do not match the original specified tire pressure, and in some cases could contribute to premature wear. The final pressure is to the discretion of the end user, the chalk test is a reference to visibly see The performance of your assumed pressure, and allowing you to Increase or decrease for the ideal contact patch… Some configurations may not change such as you have listed… Bigger tires with more ply sidewall will be stiffer and therefore require less pressure to maintain the same pattern across the road… Too many variables to list, but this test can help narrow down a ideal pressure.
@@GatorOverland Intruiging. Surely is! I had Michelin Pilot 3 tires in MB S-class and MB said tires are no linger road worthy! Rear tires were off in the middle and front in outer sides due to roundabouts. Well i thought. Now I have brand new Michelin 4S. Door sticker tells FRONT 29-32 psi and REAR 33-36 psi not loaded and loaded retrospectively. Front 255/40/19 and rear 275/40/19
Bob Jane T mart pumped all 4 to 40psi !! And Mercedes service set it down to 30 front and 32 rear. The ride comfort is great at MB settings and horrible at BOB J T Mart 40 psi!! I will do the test !! I have a feeling rear may well be overinflated at 33 and front under inflated at 30. (Cold).
Another thing to consider depending on vehicle, wheel and tire size. Because of the weight distribution from front to back and caster setting (how much the front wheels lean when turned). For example the tires on my old truck likes 42psi in the front and 32 in the back for even wear. I don't bother rotating them because they wear even at that psi.
Absolutely it will change per vehicle and other variables associated with weight and tire and wheel… This is just a way to see what’s going on and adjust as you see fit
@@GatorOverland something I ment to highlight and kinda got side tracked lol on most vehicles the front wheels aren't perfectly straight up and lean even more when turning so tends to wear more on the shoulders of the tire. That's why I run more psi in the front. On the back if you have a straight axle you may want to run less than level than what the test shows because the center of the tire gets taller at highway speeds. I would assume vehicles with independent rear suspension might like similar to front air pressure.
Very true. Camber will definitely have some effects on what tire pressure you run. With the chalk you can visualize it’s contact patch and inflate to your discretion
👍
Forgive me Gator, but what final pressures did you arrive at after your second chalk run?
I hear you say "30psi, 37 12 50" toward the end of your video, so I'm confused!
Yes, I dropped my 37” tires from 37psi to 30psi.. all good, sorry it was confusing.. a lot of 37’s in there 😂
Good info
🤝
My 285/70/17 are at 45psi. Need to do the chalk test
The lowest road pressure I ever needed for a tire to have full width contract are the TRXUS STS. 20psi.
When I ran at 30, the middle wore out way too fast. Lost wet traction too.
Switched to TRUX MT after that.
I run mine at 25 to 27 psi now… I left it at 30 for the video because it was acceptable for the chalk test… But not everybody would want to invest in a programmer to drop TPMS threshold below the factory setting
This is actually very helpful. Someone told me about how to check ur tires are well inflated. I got a 2015 lifted Scion xB with 215/70/16 toyo open country A/T III. So this will definitely be a very simple handy tool.
Thanks for the tip 🙏🏼🙏🏼
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤝
isn't the outside slightly bevelled/curved for cornering grip so it wouldn't necessarily rub out the chalk on a straight flat surface
Yes, just at the edge of the tread where it breaks over and turns from lug to side wall.. contacting up to that break over point is the test.. riding on the middle portion of your tread is not ideal unless your running milestar Patagonia’s
Very helpfull, thank you. You touched very briefly on the subject of adjusting the Tire Pressure Monitor System in the Jeep to a different threshold. I just upgraded my stock JL tires to 33 inch tires and the shop has them set at 38 psi. I want to do the chalk test, but I am afraid that the TPMS system will complain if I set it any lower than the factory specs, how does one reset those thresholds?
Great question! The pressure sensor threshold starts “low tire” notification @29 psi and will not reset until you re-inflate to 37 psi.. you will be fine down to 30-32 psi, but if you have a cold snap it could potentially allow the pressure to go below the 29psi threshold.. I use the ECRI module/app and have accounted for my tire size increase to 37 and lowered my threshold to 25psi.. I run my 37’s at 28-30psi..
ecri.app/products/ecri-wireless-vehicle-calibration-device
Let me know if you have any more questions
This was very useful. Thank you!
Just bought a new Willys Wrangler Manual Transmission. Have the 255/70/17. From the dealership the psi was at 44 lol.
😂😂😂.. check the door jamb.. should be at most that value.. and go down from there.. I’m thinking 33psi might be just right
Even for regular sized ties, adjusting the pressure for the load improves the ride. On my RAM 2500 I use the same tires that would be specified for a RAM 1500. This allows mw to lower the pressure down to safe pressures for the light duty tires without fear of rim leaks. If I want to carry up to 1000 lbs. I inflate the tires to their maximum pressure which is still be well below the heavy duty tires. When I put the camper on the truck I replace the wheels with ones with load range E tires to handle the extra 2000 lbs.
That’s exactly right!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment !
Should you chalk test on Hot or Cold tires?
Always adjust at ambient/cold temps.. the tire pressure increases 1psi per 10deg increase in tire temp..
Need to do this test on my duratracs. Going to sound crazy, but I have my dura tracks at almost 50 psi, I used to have my old nitto trail grapplers at 30 psi and the duratracs ride smoother.
The chalk test should prove the ideal pressure. Depending on the tire size and ply , wheel size and width, the pressure variable could be vast between tire brands. I know the duratrac are known for being stiff high pressure tire in some configurations.
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
@@GatorOverlanddont get me wrong, the ride is a little rougher than some might like, but I got used to the rough ride when I had the nittos. 325/65r18 on a 10 in wide wheel. 10 ply load range E all the exact same specs as the nittos. Now when aired down to 24 psi for some trail riding, so smooth!!!
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Awesome video, new tire guy learning and researching this stuff. Crazy how stock you were given seventeen high! Such a trip! definitely good info for me to pass on to customers!
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼 (car makers over inflate because the vehicle may sit for an extended period of time)
This video was very helpful!
Thanks! That’s what it’s all about!
do the tires need to be cold or hot?
Most definitely cold to be the most accurate for any tire pressure adjustment. Most tire sidewalls will note min. And max pressure (cold).. thermal expansion will increase pressures and you don’t want to be to far above or below the max and min pressures. I run my 37’s at 28 psi cold and they typically increase to 30-32psi when warm.. hope this helps 👍🏼
COOL 😎
GOING TO CHECK THAT OUT , GOT TO FIND MY GRANDSONS CHALK HE HAS LYING AROUND . THANK YOU 🙏 BE SAFE ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨
You bet! Happy to help🤘🏼
Great, your tires have even contact with the ground and the jeep rides like a cloud....now the real question: why was your shirt inside out at the beginning 🤔🤣😁 good video though..doing this to mine in the morning.
Your the second person in over a year to notice that. I just woke up and thew it on an didn’t take notice until later.. movie mistake 😂🤦🏼♂️
Am I the only one who noticed how nice a finish those tires had 🤙 Would love to know the dressing you used. I’m trying Adam’s graphite now and it seems pretty matte but would love to k ow what you use😊
Simple green is the answer.. 🤫
I don't use any shine either, (Simple Green, LA's totally awesome yellow degreaser, or Wesley's Bleche White) just creates more build up and living in SoCal, almost every tire I've seen with lots of shine are more dry rotted than just clean tires.
You want nice tires and want them to stay nice. Clean them very well with degreaser. Use Chemical Guys tire shine. Let it dry well before driving the car. Give them a second coat if you want.
Let it dry well. Then go over the tire with a clean microfibre cloth to kinda buff that finish.
Once your done. Spray over that with hairspray. The cheapest one you can find. I buy it at the dollar store for $3 a can. Do this on a clam day. Wind is your enemy here. Put it on as if you were using spray paint…a few light coats dries almost instantly.
After application do not rub or touch. Let it dry and your done.
Should last indefinitely.
When you wash the car don’t use harsh soap on the rubber and it won’t wash off either.
It’s basically lacquer and will eventually wear off. Just don’t overspray onto the paint.
Hairspray dries almost instantly so you might use the whole can depending on your technique.
Don’t get too close or it will run and not too far or you’ll miss the rubber.
My best advice is to practice on a tire other than the ones on your car to perfect the process.
Good luck!
Thanks for the great video...very glad I watched it, as all the "how-to's" I read online led me to believe I needed to look at the chalk mark left behind on the road by the tire, not on the tire itself. That would have been a problem. ;0)
Awesome!! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! Glad I could help, that’s what it’s all about..
Man you’re awesome! I would had never thought about using chalk just subscribe to your channel. Thank you for the valuable tip.
Absolutely… Happy to help.. just make sure you do it when they’re cold, and or sitting for 2 to 4 hours before adjusting. You’ll also want to double check your tire manufactures load to inflation ratings to make sure it’s adequate for the loads of your vehicle and or towing… Obviously you want to be running optimum pressure if you’re towing🤘🏼
That bf ko are not rounded like patagonia,with a wider wheel you will get full patch contact with higher air pressure.
Very true🤘🏼
Great vid mate, thanks :)
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Good video! Wish I would have seen it before buying aftermarket wheels i would have liked to run my stock Rubicon wheels 🤔
No worries, you are probably better off in the long run in the case that you want to go bigger than 37’s down the road 😜
Good video. On par with other videos I've seen on the subject.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.