Martin continue with your style of presentation its perfect for those wanting to learn. I love the way you explain things in a detailed but understandable way. You are one of the best photography educators out there, we are lucky to have you.
I’m here for the tangents Martin! Keep them coming as that is definitely one of the major factors that makes your videos stand out from so many other film photographers. There is such great educational value in the videos you post.
I like and enjoy your channel Martin. You have me wanting a pin hole camera. When you were beside the big willow tree by the water I thought of Old Man Willow from The Lord Of The Rings.
Another fantastic video Martin. I've always used DSLRs but every video I watch of yours makes me that bit closer to buying a pinhole camera. Thank you.
I tend to use Orange filters the most, they increase contrast a little, darken blues and also increase the apparent detail in wood of stone, yellow will do similar but with a lesser effect, red will do a lot more, although you will need around 3 stops more exposure, green can be useful for lightening foliage, I find the Orange filter to work best for my work.
Great video, thank you for sharing this. One question, would you mind sharing your development times and method? I.e., do you use 3+3 or 4+4 with TriX, how often do you agitate, what tank do you use (or tray processing)? Thank you!
I use a stearman press sp445 tank, 2 min soak in water, 4 mins A 4 mins B, 5 inversions at start followed by one every min, all at 75c, water stop, 5 mins fix
Diafine is interesting. For HP5 sheet film they suggest shooting at ISO 640. For HP5 120 roll film they suggest ISO 800. Why this is remains a mystery to me, but it works.
Martin, I just found your videos a week ago and I have really enjoyed watching them. You encouraged me to dig deeper into the formula for pinhole reciprocity. Can you check your calculations on the FP4 exposure time including reciprocity of 44 minutes? I agree with your calculation of the film exposure time of 3’13” pre-reciprocity. However, I get a reciprocity exposure time of 12 minutes 42 seconds (193 seconds) using the manual formula for reciprocity (Formula: 193 seconds raised to the 1.26 power (which is the Ilford Reciprocity Factor for FP4)). Also, when I calculate the reciprocity time in the iPhone Reciprocity Timer App for FP4 at 3 minutes 13 seconds, I get a reciprocity exposure time of 11 minutes 57 seconds, so both methods are in the 12 minute exposure range. I’m confused about the 44 minutes. Is it an error or am I doing something wrong? Please don’t take my post as being critical. Your videos are awesome!!! I’m just trying to get a grip on calculating reciprocity. As as side note, my numbers on the Tri-X matched your numbers. Thanks.
Hi Charlie, your not doing anything wrong, its a mistake on my part, the exposure for FP4 with reciprocity is around the 12 min time, in fact slightly more, I have no idea how I came up with that time, however, thinking back I do remember when doing the video that it seemed a long time for FP4, so trusting my math's thinking it was correct !!!, senior moment I'm afraid, I do apologize for the confusion and you did right bringing it up for further scrutiny, that aside, hope you can see that the right choice of film and developer combination makes a big difference to exposure times when using pinhole cameras, if I had used FP4 I would have been stood around another 10 mins give or take a few seconds, the fun of lens less photography lol
@@martinhensonphotography Thanks so much Martin. I really like and appreciate how you give such detailed information about how you create each shot. It’s a great teaching tool. On a general note, your photos are just outstanding. Most of all I love your creativity. To put the pinhole in the middle of the flowers looking up toward the sky was genius. My favorite photo has been the flower shot set up in the middle of your back yard with the sun flair coming in from the top corner. Brilliant!!! As a side note, check out the phone app called Pinhole Assist. You will not need the charts and tables. Just put in the necessary info and it calculates the exposure times for you and logs the pictures you take. It took me some time to figure it out, but once I did it works great and is actually easy to use. If you need any help be sure to message me. Charlie
Yes that's correct, I metered for the shadow area which as you say would be zone 5 (the spot meter will always give a zone 5 reading whatever you point it at), then under exposed by 2 stops, that brings that shadow density to zone 3, so I am working from the zone 5 as a datum point, thanks you
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you Martin - I would love a video on this.. I'm still confused - Taking a reading at middle gray and then lowering it to zone 3 decreases exposure?
@@RCBimagesI will do a short video as I do understand it is quite confusing until the penny drops, keep in mind this, you have to think of it as a negative and not a positive, what's dark on the neg ends up light on the print and vica versa, briefly and something for you to think about, underexposure makes picture darker and over exposure makes it lighter, if you know that a spot reading in a shadow area is giving zone 5 to make that area darker you have to under expose, 1 stop = 1 zone, so from zone 5 to zone 3 is two stops darker because we are moving the tonal scale down, I will do a video though
Martin continue with your style of presentation its perfect for those wanting to learn. I love the way you explain things in a detailed but understandable way. You are one of the best photography educators out there, we are lucky to have you.
Another great video Martin, plenty of useful information to try out.
An interesting video, as always.
I’m here for the tangents Martin! Keep them coming as that is definitely one of the major factors that makes your videos stand out from so many other film photographers. There is such great educational value in the videos you post.
I like and enjoy your channel Martin. You have me wanting a pin hole camera. When you were beside the big willow tree by the water I thought of Old Man Willow from The Lord Of The Rings.
Your videos are always a pleasure to watch. Thank You.
Larry F.
My pleasure, thank you
Another fantastic video Martin. I've always used DSLRs but every video I watch of yours makes me that bit closer to buying a pinhole camera. Thank you.
Zero image and ondu are great options. Quality!
Thanks for your video! Very useful
like ist, very well explained!
Beautiful photograph, very nice behind the scenes during the making of it, and perfect technical explanation afterwards. Superb video, thanks.
Thanks James, glad you enjoyed it
Excellent. Very helpful information even for an old fart like me.
Your videos are so helpful!! I am learning so much. Could you help explain which filters are helpful or useful for Holga or pinhole use?
I tend to use Orange filters the most, they increase contrast a little, darken blues and also increase the apparent detail in wood of stone, yellow will do similar but with a lesser effect, red will do a lot more, although you will need around 3 stops more exposure, green can be useful for lightening foliage, I find the Orange filter to work best for my work.
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you!
Great video, thank you for sharing this. One question, would you mind sharing your development times and method? I.e., do you use 3+3 or 4+4 with TriX, how often do you agitate, what tank do you use (or tray processing)?
Thank you!
I use a stearman press sp445 tank, 2 min soak in water, 4 mins A 4 mins B, 5 inversions at start followed by one every min, all at 75c, water stop, 5 mins fix
Thank you Martin!
Diafine is interesting. For HP5 sheet film they suggest shooting at ISO 640. For HP5 120 roll film they suggest ISO 800. Why this is remains a mystery to me, but it works.
It could be the way the film base is made, I know Tri x roll film is a lot thinner then sheet film, so I suppose that's the same for HP5
Martin, I just found your videos a week ago and I have really enjoyed watching them. You encouraged me to dig deeper into the formula for pinhole reciprocity. Can you check your calculations on the FP4 exposure time including reciprocity of 44 minutes? I agree with your calculation of the film exposure time of 3’13” pre-reciprocity. However, I get a reciprocity exposure time of 12 minutes 42 seconds (193 seconds) using the manual formula for reciprocity (Formula: 193 seconds raised to the 1.26 power (which is the Ilford Reciprocity Factor for FP4)). Also, when I calculate the reciprocity time in the iPhone Reciprocity Timer App for FP4 at 3 minutes 13 seconds, I get a reciprocity exposure time of 11 minutes 57 seconds, so both methods are in the 12 minute exposure range. I’m confused about the 44 minutes. Is it an error or am I doing something wrong? Please don’t take my post as being critical. Your videos are awesome!!! I’m just trying to get a grip on calculating reciprocity. As as side note, my numbers on the Tri-X matched your numbers. Thanks.
Hi Charlie, your not doing anything wrong, its a mistake on my part, the exposure for FP4 with reciprocity is around the 12 min time, in fact slightly more, I have no idea how I came up with that time, however, thinking back I do remember when doing the video that it seemed a long time for FP4, so trusting my math's thinking it was correct !!!, senior moment I'm afraid, I do apologize for the confusion and you did right bringing it up for further scrutiny, that aside, hope you can see that the right choice of film and developer combination makes a big difference to exposure times when using pinhole cameras, if I had used FP4 I would have been stood around another 10 mins give or take a few seconds, the fun of lens less photography lol
@@martinhensonphotography Thanks so much Martin. I really like and appreciate how you give such detailed information about how you create each shot. It’s a great teaching tool. On a general note, your photos are just outstanding. Most of all I love your creativity. To put the pinhole in the middle of the flowers looking up toward the sky was genius. My favorite photo has been the flower shot set up in the middle of your back yard with the sun flair coming in from the top corner. Brilliant!!!
As a side note, check out the phone app called Pinhole Assist. You will not need the charts and tables. Just put in the necessary info and it calculates the exposure times for you and logs the pictures you take. It took me some time to figure it out, but once I did it works great and is actually easy to use. If you need any help be sure to message me. Charlie
Placing in zone 3 would decrease exposure time? Are you raising the spot meter from zone 1 to 3? Isn't middle grey zone 5?
Yes that's correct, I metered for the shadow area which as you say would be zone 5 (the spot meter will always give a zone 5 reading whatever you point it at), then under exposed by 2 stops, that brings that shadow density to zone 3, so I am working from the zone 5 as a datum point, thanks you
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you Martin - I would love a video on this.. I'm still confused - Taking a reading at middle gray and then lowering it to zone 3 decreases exposure?
@@RCBimagesI will do a short video as I do understand it is quite confusing until the penny drops, keep in mind this, you have to think of it as a negative and not a positive, what's dark on the neg ends up light on the print and vica versa, briefly and something for you to think about, underexposure makes picture darker and over exposure makes it lighter, if you know that a spot reading in a shadow area is giving zone 5 to make that area darker you have to under expose, 1 stop = 1 zone, so from zone 5 to zone 3 is two stops darker because we are moving the tonal scale down, I will do a video though
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you for your time Martin! I'm enjoying your channel.