You may not of started out to be a Electrical Engineer but this build and now all the knowledge you have learned that is needed to apply to build this is Amazing and you are far more talented then the average sim pit builder. You are smarter then the average Bear Yogi 😃Good Job Love your Videos from Ohio USA
I'm heading the same road as you did, I just start building my home cockpit and with the electronics, I'm doing the same as you did, I just bough my first 3d printer in Jaycar on sale and building a GTC 580 for Garmin 3000, and this is the beginning , the ultimate goal is 737 or 787, or airbus, you are an inspiration to us all, great archiver.
oh the hideous soldering!! - wont somebody thing of the children!!! ;) Top content as always mate - kudos also a an excellent example of utilising off the shelf components as a cheap alternative to real world switches in the aircraft that are well beyond most peoples budgetary constraints, even in your, dare i say it 'benchmark 1:1 sim' it is simply too expensive to painstakingly replicate in a like for like manner. You can get away with utilising near similar function switches & utilise their additional features to leverage more functions (like the NVG switch on the HSI etc). tip for young players - learn from the copious mistakes the old-timers / trail-blazers had to make & save yourself some heartache/headaches. cheers
A dirty trick with rotaries I did was hooked them up to a keyboard encoder ripped out of a cheap USB keyboard. you wire up the two encoder lines to say A and SHIFT. so when you rotate it one way you get aaaaa and the other way you get AAAAA which you can map in most games to two functions. there's a lot of keys that work with SHIFT on a keyboard too so its a great way of getting a lot of one/two way digital inputs.
An advantage to using pots code with a multi position rotary switch is that you can solder resistors between the contacts, and you will only need one analog pin instead of many digital pins.
One more thing to note about rotary encoders is that some output one pulse per detent (the notches) and some output 4 pulses per detent. There is some code you can put in to make the 4 per encoders operate like 1 per.
DCS Bios related question: if i wanted to make a panel that would be used for multiple DCS aircraft (F-16 & F-18) would it be a better route to use a arduino that is setup as a USB controller vs DCS Bios? I dont strickly fly one aircraft in DCS but want to make physvial devices soon
Do what you like but think it could be cheaper to buy the chips with the crystals but see why you do the lazy method and buy the arduino micro boards or knock offs.
i know you said most of your cockpit is set up with arduino micros due to the fact that you don't have to use dcs bios with them, HOW did you get around each micro showing up with the same name? i built a bunch of switch panels following your video and now i'm stuck because i can only use one at a time.
bit random, but some aircraft have a heading select knob, and altho I'm using a winwing setup, it has multiple rotary encoders, is there a way to speed up the encoders in DCS? I have the F1 mirage, and setting the heading select to a rotary encoder, its absolutely slow as all fuck, as if its microstepping.
how did you do your controller setup? it looks like you have a arduino (or something similar) for each small panel. how do you then connect all these single boards together? just each of them to a usb hub, or do you use master/slave and only connect the master controller to usb to your pc? what would you recommend?
Scroll back through some videos, everything he does he shares, parts required, doodads needed, coding, how he did what with everything. Gives sooo many ideas for all sorts of sims. His set-up is off the bloody charts! 😍👍
When using the I2C bus you can use up to 128 inputs per arduino. Might even be able to combine it with a button matrix to even up the number of buttons further but you would run out of space for all the code at that point.
Question regarding your cable management with the arduino's. If all those boards are connected to a usb, do you have USB hubs through out your sim pit? If you answered this already may you (or someone else) direct me to that video as i'm very curious how that works.
![[NEW] Making F-16 Simulator Cockpit Panels](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vK5d8DvD1Lg/mqdefault.jpg)
You may not of started out to be a Electrical Engineer but this build and now all the knowledge you have learned that is needed to apply to build this is Amazing and you are far more talented then the average sim pit builder. You are smarter then the average Bear Yogi 😃Good Job Love your Videos from Ohio USA
I'm heading the same road as you did, I just start building my home cockpit and with the electronics, I'm doing the same as you did, I just bough my first 3d printer in Jaycar on sale and building a GTC 580 for Garmin 3000, and this is the beginning , the ultimate goal is 737 or 787, or airbus, you are an inspiration to us all, great archiver.
i did few panels for airbus on my other channel
These videos have been so freaking helpful!!!
Amazing. I worked as a tech @ ACES Mall of America back in 2014. You replicated our sim domes. Well done buddy!
Something i learn about potentiometers class types nice work.
See, I'm going to take all this wonderful info and make a fancy flight sim gamepad for DCS lol
oh the hideous soldering!! - wont somebody thing of the children!!! ;)
Top content as always mate - kudos
also a an excellent example of utilising off the shelf components as a cheap alternative to real world switches in the aircraft that are well beyond most peoples budgetary constraints, even in your, dare i say it 'benchmark 1:1 sim' it is simply too expensive to painstakingly replicate in a like for like manner. You can get away with utilising near similar function switches & utilise their additional features to leverage more functions (like the NVG switch on the HSI etc).
tip for young players - learn from the copious mistakes the old-timers / trail-blazers had to make & save yourself some heartache/headaches.
cheers
I did not knew there were different types of potentiometers, thanks.
Super vidéo 👍 Thanks
Man I just found your channel and this was the exact tutorial I’ve been hunting for. Subscribed great stuff
This is so fn amazing! Well done !!
A dirty trick with rotaries I did was hooked them up to a keyboard encoder ripped out of a cheap USB keyboard. you wire up the two encoder lines to say A and SHIFT. so when you rotate it one way you get aaaaa and the other way you get AAAAA which you can map in most games to two functions. there's a lot of keys that work with SHIFT on a keyboard too so its a great way of getting a lot of one/two way digital inputs.
This is brilliant and cursed and I love it. As long as you're only turning one at a time you could share the shift between multiple encoders
@@Rokreder I dare say it would work just as good with CTRL or ALT too so even more options.....
An advantage to using pots code with a multi position rotary switch is that you can solder resistors between the contacts, and you will only need one analog pin instead of many digital pins.
very nice been wondering so these go in the 3d printed for panel nice
One more thing to note about rotary encoders is that some output one pulse per detent (the notches) and some output 4 pulses per detent. There is some code you can put in to make the 4 per encoders operate like 1 per.
Outstand equipment with plenty of work amazing...... :)
Will we ever see some Warthog Project special edition button boxes? (8-12 pots would be a good start)
You mean as a product? Probably not, since he has a full-time job
@2:41 You have both of them labeled as GND on the right encoder.
Now simulate the canopy coming down
What I'm curious is the displays. Haven't found a satisfactory answer on how to build external displays, like the MFDs or others
He has got a regular lcd screen behind the MFD's and all the gauges, just 1 big screen.
There is a video from it, think the MFD video shows it.
Any tips on how to prevent switch bounce if you're using a LeoBodnar card?
DCS Bios related question: if i wanted to make a panel that would be used for multiple DCS aircraft (F-16 & F-18) would it be a better route to use a arduino that is setup as a USB controller vs DCS Bios? I dont strickly fly one aircraft in DCS but want to make physvial devices soon
Heres hoping you do a vid for a Rotary switch....NOT encoder please :)
Do you not have a filter on your rotary encoders? How do you prevent the bounce?
I put 100nF capacitors on mine from the signal pin to ground.
Do what you like but think it could be cheaper to buy the chips with the crystals but see why you do the lazy method and buy the arduino micro boards or knock offs.
Hey man, what wires do you use for your projects?
i know you said most of your cockpit is set up with arduino micros due to the fact that you don't have to use dcs bios with them, HOW did you get around each micro showing up with the same name? i built a bunch of switch panels following your video and now i'm stuck because i can only use one at a time.
Are your CRS/HDG dials rotary or pots..? I have the MIP and trying to get my pot to control but it's very difficult.
bit random, but some aircraft have a heading select knob, and altho I'm using a winwing setup, it has multiple rotary encoders, is there a way to speed up the encoders in DCS?
I have the F1 mirage, and setting the heading select to a rotary encoder, its absolutely slow as all fuck, as if its microstepping.
Despite having quaggles, I cannot get my heading and course to work properly. They just zoom around the HSI
What are "quaggles"? If you mean the rotary encoder, I put 100nF capacitors on mine from the signal pin to ground. This kills noise quickly.
how did you do your controller setup? it looks like you have a arduino (or something similar) for each small panel. how do you then connect all these single boards together? just each of them to a usb hub, or do you use master/slave and only connect the master controller to usb to your pc? what would you recommend?
winwing.
Awesome stuff, If I come to Melbourne, would you show me your pit? Or it’s not for show and tell?
Scroll back through some videos, everything he does he shares, parts required, doodads needed, coding, how he did what with everything. Gives sooo many ideas for all sorts of sims. His set-up is off the bloody charts! 😍👍
Oh woops🤦 just read the "if I come to Melbourne" bit, that'd be awesome if he does. Should do and charge a fee to play 😁👍💰cockpit could pay for itself
@@dcf476 its probably not about the moneyz, its about the experience, play dcs, be better, threaten him to shot him down if he wont show the simpit :D
@@dcf476 he does indeed. By show n tell, I meant , first hand experience.
@@dcf476 sorry, English is not my first language.
Man I wish I had the money to hire him to build me a clone of his Simpit and to get it shipped here
do it yourself
@@colorscream sadly I lack the tools and skills to do so
@@JohnSmith-xq1pz come on, buy a cheap uses cnc for the start, and skills can be learnt in the process
@@colorscream finding a place to do the cnc cutting isn't the problem. It's all the electronics work
@@JohnSmith-xq1pz buy an arduino electronics kit with leds switches and wires, follow one or two tutorials and you will get it
what is the latency like?
Also, how many com ports does your machine have listed? it must be a lot even if you are using up every IO pin on an Arduino each time.
When using the I2C bus you can use up to 128 inputs per arduino.
Might even be able to combine it with a button matrix to even up the number of buttons further but you would run out of space for all the code at that point.
Question regarding your cable management with the arduino's. If all those boards are connected to a usb, do you have USB hubs through out your sim pit? If you answered this already may you (or someone else) direct me to that video as i'm very curious how that works.
Read your website and found the answer!
Are the face plates metal or etched plastic that’s painted black? Do you have a list of some of the hardware used ? Thanks.
white acyrlic, painted black, laser engraved. He has a previous video on it
Bet sometimes you forget your not flying.
Yo what’s up?
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First pin me 😀😀