At least Steve is got ambition to work on his truck. Most owner operators I know. Don’t even know how to grease a truck. Or change a lite bulb. Not a lazy guy.
22, and carrying the tradition of self respect for maintaining my equipment. I always adjust my brakes when I hook up if needed, and grease my own fittings religiously.
This is what real truckers are, the old school style owner operators. They’re still around 🙌👏👏👏 and young truckers like me have learned to conserve that know how and manhood that comes with trucking. You gotta know how to fix something when your in the middle of nowhere. Sadly most Schneider and Swift steering wheel holders could only dream of changing out injector nozzles or replacing a blown air bag,while stranded on the side of the road that is.... Gotta pay respect we’re respect is due !!!! My man FSC Speedshop really gets the job done and keeps it the old school trucking way 🤘🤘🤘
Pretty sure that the “do not remove” tag is to keep dirt out and the oil they put in during the remanufacturing process in. Putting more oil in couldn’t hurt but is probably not needed
Had this happen to me a few time. Working on a big job, everything is going well and the last piece is not correct. You handled it like a pro. Work with what you have to get back on the road and make a plan to get the right part to replace it later on. Nice work and great video....
Looking good Steve never fails your almost done and the last part doesn't fit. But your à problem solver and you make it work. Great video very informative on how to change out the turbo.
love your videos!.watch them alot i used to drive the 79 transtar2 350? cummins and 13 speed in late 70s then i got a dark metallic brown with stripes 77 pete cabover with air ride same cummins with 13 speed loved the air ride and the leather brown interior it had compared to the transtar2 leafsprings high 5th wheel plate which got me in trouble in chicago one time i nipped the top of a bridge knocked the light off.the transtar2 fuel pump whent out one night in kansas i coasted off freeway onto a gravel road i started jacking cab up and heard growling.i was surrounded by 12 coyotes i slept over the steering whell with cab up until morning no cell phones then.they circled me all night.in morning i flagged a farmer down to get me back to a truckstop to call company the fuel pump dyed at 800,000 miles/Rip to my friend that taught me how to drive when i was 19 he was 50 he had 2 weeks to retirement he had 3 million miles under his belt.he was hit head on by a long nosed pete driver that crossed through ditch asleep and hit my friend in his brand new first trip out white cabover ya the brand white.the pete hit him high in cab so my boss took me aside and said see that white heading out of yard ?.thats your friends truck i just kitted it its buisness.he just had new cab put on the framei threw his arm off my shoulder and quit driving.
Great video, And for those people who say that you don't need to double tap the torque setting you just got at lest 3 moments where the first click was false, you always go until it doesn't move between clicks
Steve I install them in pieces exhaust housing,center section, then the intake housing.... and a thin layer of anti seize in between and a thin coat on the clamps.... makes life a whole lot easier.... and I bolt the drain down before I tighten down all the cartridge clamps.... that way you know its clamped down square and not kinked
CAT is sure proud of their parts!!! None of them are cheap. And my experience over the past 10 + years, you have to get parts from them (haven't found a good aftermarket supplier). Great video sir 👍
This has happened to me a few times. Do the whole thing right up the end and the last piece is different, the wrong size or missing a bit. I feel your pain bro.
The bottom o-ring was yellow. That is a inferior part. The best o-ring is a 1142687. A/F on the gasket means asbestos free. I would have removed the cartage and installed the turbine housing by itself, since this is a new assembly. Easier to get to the mounting bolts. Also I put anti seize on the face of the turbine housing and the cartage just in case I have to disassemble the darn thing later. I also use anti seize on the o-ring on the cross over tube. They can be a problem to disassembled later. Or if the impeller housing is OK. I have reused it so I don't have to remove the cross over pipe or the elbow on a ATAAC turbo.
Keep some ordinary tinfoil at hand for times when you need to cover a valve or fitting to keep debris out. Makes a good tight seal. Custom fitment too!
They didn't need to tell him, the new flex line came with the turbo or was ordered as an option to replace the original hard line, but it doesn't fit. He's going to try to put the original hard line on the new turbo until the correct new flex line can be obtained.
You happen to have that part number for that new flexible oil line and adapter? Im putting in a new PDI stage 1 turbo and exhaust manifold on my 02 c15 6nz
Love me some never seize. I've got a laqrge 1/2 qt. size of the copper hi temp my son gave me when he worked a dealershp for aqw2hile. Ha--I'll never use it all.
Wow, that ended abruptly! But, hey, those of us who depend on PC like you depend on Orwell, know what it's like to have a piece of essential equipment not working when a deadline is approaching (for you, when you have to be out on the road) the next day!
Soo ru going 2 decrease the whole & engine & pressure wash it after completing the assembly of the new turbo,, being that I sprayed oil all over the engine?
Thanku Steve,,& alls I was saying is that de- greasing & pressure washing the engine bay would allow u see exactly where it was leaking-- if it ever leaked again & its not that u don't know that already,,because I truly admire your knowledge and experience already!!!
Actually if you look at cat parts theres alot it made in the usa Canada japan germeny and mexico then china. Most cat parts have a country of origin on the part box right by the part number plain as day.
The torque doesn’t change if you are extending in the direction he did. If he was using and offset or “dog bone” it would. You can find the math for adjusting the torque value easy enough on google.
@@aapbehr lmao I feel sorry for you but you go by that and I’ll do it the correct way you’ll never get and accurate number, Now I understand why Steve did it the way he did and those bolts aren’t important like head bolts or wheel studs but you also seem like the lube up the lug nut type
@@Justme-jt1ef it’s fine for you to disagree. My experience is coming from over a decade of building turbine engines for airplanes. I feel if aerospace engineers think that an extension doesn’t change the torque significantly on extremely precise equipment, it should also be fine for turbo mount bolts. Just my humble opinion though.
never seize/anti-seize??? i thought all engine bolts suppose to have threadlocker so it does not come loose from all the engine vibrations, LOL i think thats why ur turbo was leaking, idk
Thread lock will not work on the exhaust hardware. The heat will burn it off. As far as the leak, I would have raised the cab and ran the engine to find the source of the leak.
You didn't say what the different A/R # were you can run A/R# -1.84. -1.74 or 1.58 either one will work fine , l dont like 1.84 when pulling hard they leave a slight haze of smoke. Should of ran the used the $300.oo turbo you just gave CAT your money. Look out for the core game ,get core refund before you use cat parts , they will reject your core for some little issue now you can't return the part or you have go find a core that cat will accept or lose your core deposit . $900.oo core what B/S CAT.
yes get your money back from caterpillar, i do know you save about $5000 on putting that turbo in yourself..because mechanics usually charge for labor and crap to bleed you dry for your $$$
At least Steve is got ambition to work on his truck. Most owner operators I know. Don’t even know how to grease a truck. Or change a lite bulb. Not a lazy guy.
Let your wallet be the judge, it’s an open and shut case for me lol.
22, and carrying the tradition of self respect for maintaining my equipment. I always adjust my brakes when I hook up if needed, and grease my own fittings religiously.
This is what real truckers are, the old school style owner operators. They’re still around 🙌👏👏👏 and young truckers like me have learned to conserve that know how and manhood that comes with trucking. You gotta know how to fix something when your in the middle of nowhere. Sadly most Schneider and Swift steering wheel holders could only dream of changing out injector nozzles or replacing a blown air bag,while stranded on the side of the road that is.... Gotta pay respect we’re respect is due !!!! My man FSC Speedshop really gets the job done and keeps it the old school trucking way 🤘🤘🤘
I would be putting the $900 directly into air conditioning that shop...lol. Your a trooper!!
You should always pour some oil in inlet hole b4 installing lines.and hand spin turbine to coat bushings i shaft area
Pretty sure that the “do not remove” tag is to keep dirt out and the oil they put in during the remanufacturing process in. Putting more oil in couldn’t hurt but is probably not needed
My new turbo said add oil before starting the truck.
Had this happen to me a few time. Working on a big job, everything is going well and the last piece is not correct. You handled it like a pro. Work with what you have to get back on the road and make a plan to get the right part to replace it later on. Nice work and great video....
Anytime I ever put turbo on. Always filled it with oil before putting line on.
Looking good Steve never fails your almost done and the last part doesn't fit. But your à problem solver and you make it work. Great video very informative on how to change out the turbo.
love your videos!.watch them alot i used to drive the 79 transtar2 350? cummins and 13 speed in late 70s then i got a dark metallic brown with stripes 77 pete cabover with air ride same cummins with 13 speed loved the air ride and the leather brown interior it had compared to the transtar2 leafsprings high 5th wheel plate which got me in trouble in chicago one time i nipped the top of a bridge knocked the light off.the transtar2 fuel pump whent out one night in kansas i coasted off freeway onto a gravel road i started jacking cab up and heard growling.i was surrounded by 12 coyotes i slept over the steering whell with cab up until morning no cell phones then.they circled me all night.in morning i flagged a farmer down to get me back to a truckstop to call company the fuel pump dyed at 800,000 miles/Rip to my friend that taught me how to drive when i was 19 he was 50 he had 2 weeks to retirement he had 3 million miles under his belt.he was hit head on by a long nosed pete driver that crossed through ditch asleep and hit my friend in his brand new first trip out white cabover ya the brand white.the pete hit him high in cab so my boss took me aside and said see that white heading out of yard ?.thats your friends truck i just kitted it its buisness.he just had new cab put on the framei threw his arm off my shoulder and quit driving.
Great video,
And for those people who say that you don't need to double tap the torque setting you just got at lest 3 moments where the first click was false, you always go until it doesn't move between clicks
Also palm on the handle, not at the torque wrench's end.
But that extension was ok lmfao.
Some of you guys must be perfect and create content. So plz share so we can see how you torque and how you talk to your audience.
Steve I install them in pieces exhaust housing,center section, then the intake housing.... and a thin layer of anti seize in between and a thin coat on the clamps.... makes life a whole lot easier.... and I bolt the drain down before I tighten down all the cartridge clamps.... that way you know its clamped down square and not kinked
The Florida pool pump motor bearing repair guy When Service Calls Longwood approved ! that was good info Steve
CAT is sure proud of their parts!!! None of them are cheap. And my experience over the past 10 + years, you have to get parts from them (haven't found a good aftermarket supplier). Great video sir 👍
Thats your iq follow the engineer s mistakes rebuilt parts
B model Cat w/ an E model turbo - waste gate delete. 700 degrees or less running down the road.😊
thank for the video.
Very good job
You should have installed a SwitchBlade Turbo! Best turbo in the industry-
The 1 that ya replaced with the other 2 is bigger than them.. as soon as ya put them up on the finder ya can see the difference on camera 🎥
Great job
put oil in that bearing before you assemble it
hi Steve nice to know it happens in america where the parts guys sell you something that dont fit waisting your time
This has happened to me a few times. Do the whole thing right up the end and the last piece is different, the wrong size or missing a bit. I feel your pain bro.
Other than the oil return tube, looking good. Looks like viewer numbers are ok for new channel & 81 comments for UA-cam algorithms. Take care.
Liking this new channel
The bottom o-ring was yellow. That is a inferior part. The best o-ring is a 1142687. A/F on the gasket means asbestos free.
I would have removed the cartage and installed the turbine housing by itself, since this is a new assembly. Easier to get to the mounting bolts. Also I put anti seize on the face of the turbine housing and the cartage just in case I have to disassemble the darn thing later. I also use anti seize on the o-ring on the cross over tube. They can be a problem to disassembled later. Or if the impeller housing is OK. I have reused it so I don't have to remove the cross over pipe or the elbow on a ATAAC turbo.
I have its called ebay
" Gravity works " yeah, i say that every morning trying to get out of bed
Keep some ordinary tinfoil at hand for times when you need to cover a valve or fitting to keep debris out. Makes a good tight seal. Custom fitment too!
Your too hard on yourself Steve. They should of told you that a different supply tube was required.
They didn't need to tell him, the new flex line came with the turbo or was ordered as an option to replace the original hard line, but it doesn't fit. He's going to try to put the original hard line on the new turbo until the correct new flex line can be obtained.
@@ralfie8801 😄
Bet the new one spools up faster and better throttle response ,, :-)
Great video!
Which editing program do you use?
Hey Steve are you supposed to Prime the Turbo with Motor Oil?? Or is the line pressure on initial startup enough??ps Duke put a sock in it
You happen to have that part number for that new flexible oil line and adapter? Im putting in a new PDI stage 1 turbo and exhaust manifold on my 02 c15 6nz
I’d like the part number for the flexible supply line also
Sorry about the disappointment. The filmwork was as usual A+
😎👍
Love me some never seize. I've got a laqrge 1/2 qt. size of the copper hi temp my son gave me when he worked a dealershp for aqw2hile. Ha--I'll never use it all.
That dodge you loaded them parts into???
what is the A/R of each snail .. the cold and the hot?
Wow, that ended abruptly! But, hey, those of us who depend on PC like you depend on Orwell, know what it's like to have a piece of essential equipment not working when a deadline is approaching (for you, when you have to be out on the road) the next day!
HAHAHA
That sucks buddy but thanks for showing us.
The New turbo is it larger or the same size
Soo ru going 2 decrease the whole & engine & pressure wash it after completing the assembly of the new turbo,, being that I sprayed oil all over the engine?
Thanku Steve,,& alls I was saying is that de- greasing & pressure washing the engine bay would allow u see exactly where it was leaking-- if it ever leaked again & its not that u don't know that already,,because I truly admire your knowledge and experience already!!!
Will it last the warrantee? Most everything is chinesium.
Actually if you look at cat parts theres alot it made in the usa Canada japan germeny and mexico then china. Most cat parts have a country of origin on the part box right by the part number plain as day.
It's still not a Garrett. 😀
Do you still have the turbo from facebook market place? I have 7FB that has that same turbo on it, needs replacement. Thank you
Paducah power can get you a bigger borg Warner for it. Just did mine this weekend
Well ya know what they say, shit happens...
wut happened to that old dodge? got a new dodge or ram i see lol
It's a nice Garrett
Its not your fault that they changed the part there and made it so that it doesn't fit.
I might have called Blaylock in Kansas for a price 1st. 🤔
Put a 4 barrel on it
if that new turbo meant for your engine why is it smaller (exhaust snail) old turbo exhaust snail is bigger compared to the new /reman turbo
Smaller A/R turbine housing, spins faster
Will the torque be inaccurate when u change the drive, or add extensions? Or isn't it a big deal...
It's a +- 5 ft lbs so that's gotta be close enough.
The torque doesn’t change if you are extending in the direction he did. If he was using and offset or “dog bone” it would. You can find the math for adjusting the torque value easy enough on google.
@@aapbehr lmao I feel sorry for you but you go by that and I’ll do it the correct way you’ll never get and accurate number, Now I understand why Steve did it the way he did and those bolts aren’t important like head bolts or wheel studs but you also seem like the lube up the lug nut type
@@Justme-jt1ef it’s fine for you to disagree. My experience is coming from over a decade of building turbine engines for airplanes. I feel if aerospace engineers think that an extension doesn’t change the torque significantly on extremely precise equipment, it should also be fine for turbo mount bolts. Just my humble opinion though.
@@aapbehr I do not believe not ONE word you are saying
I am so tired of reman garbage parts, nothing but problems.
never seize/anti-seize??? i thought all engine bolts suppose to have threadlocker so it does not come loose from all the engine vibrations, LOL i think thats why ur turbo was leaking, idk
Thread lock will not work on the exhaust hardware. The heat will burn it off. As far as the leak, I would have raised the cab and ran the engine to find the source of the leak.
You need a air conditioner in your shop
Hold the spool with your hand while somebody starts the truck. After a minute let it go, the oil is then primed into the turbo.
You don't ever put your hands in the turbo with the engine running.....ever
@@robflammia4716 There is no pressure on the spool until you release it from your grip.
You didn't say what the different A/R # were you can run A/R# -1.84. -1.74 or 1.58 either one will work fine , l dont like 1.84 when pulling hard they leave a slight haze of smoke. Should of ran the used the $300.oo turbo you just gave CAT your money. Look out for the core game ,get core refund before you use cat parts , they will reject your core for some little issue now you can't return the part or you have go find a core that cat will accept or lose your core deposit . $900.oo core what B/S CAT.
yes get your money back from caterpillar, i do know you save about $5000 on putting that turbo in yourself..because mechanics usually charge for labor and crap to bleed you dry for your $$$
Using the wrong shop
41 years as a Cat tech, I don't bleed my customers. Usually a dumb ass truck driver won't stop after a failure and they do the bleeding for me.
Enough with the "okay boys and girls" it gets old.
I hate that too!
That’s what he thinks of his viewers. He’s a typical bald headed freak of nature. Lol. What do you think boys and girls ?
@@grngs1 cry about it
Get over it nobody makes you watch bunch of babies
@@OffroadCpl
Sorry I hit a nerve lol.