Richard's teaching is so excellent and concise, I'm an intermediate potter, and his guidance really has helped fill in my knowledge gaps! Thank you for these videos.
such a great video! You don't assume knowledge but don't talk down to us either. Can't wait to do more sodium silicate pots. You've given me more confidence in what I'm doing. Thanks!!!
excellent instruction...stumbled across this video the other day. (it is bookmarked now!). I am a retired educator, and pottery has become my obsession. I think I am intermediate with my skill set and continue to explore new techniques. Professional potters that I have encountered are so giving...that seems to come across in your videos. Thanks so much.
I’m so glad you mentioned wearing a mask… Breathing in the dust of clay and glazes is really dangerous! YOU should wear a mask also! mistakes are great opportunities to learn...so its nice to watch you correct things.... but there is an easy way to not have to scrape off glaze or sponge it off where it gets into the cracks and could change the way those cracks look… And that would be to just put the glaze in a wider bucket or pot or bowl or some thing so that you can dip it exactly to the line that you wanted that doesn’t die or brush it on in the first place… Also if you dip the bottom first you can hold on To the inside of the pot while you dip the bottom and then you can dip the top holding onto the unglazed sides
Masks are very, very important and it is good to adjust their use when working with ceramics appropriately. I always use a mask when glazing, sanding or whenever there is dry glaze in my work area. Also work in a well ventilated area and work in a closed space with a kiln firing. After you are done for the day use a damp sponge to clean up the excess and damp mop. This video was produced for my students when they had to glaze their work at home with small amounts of glaze. I normally use a large bucket of glaze which allows one to glaze the same way that you recommend. Challenging times call for creative solutions.
Hi Sir. A question, please. You mentioned it is NOT a functional piece? Not sure I listened wrongly. As the inside is a Satin White, should be a Food-Safe glaze, so is it not a functional piece? Pieces are an inspiration to me! :-) Thank you!
Thanks for the video. Yesterday (student) I used RIO stain but it absorb because super dry and did not wash off like yours did. Did I do something wrong? I love the brown. Is a wash u mention the same as a stain? Thanks
Make sure you do it on bisque ware so it will wash off the high points. The wash is just iron and rutile mixed with water, brushed on the bisque and sponged off. Good luck!
Try it, I like the way you think. One of the elements of ceramics that I love is the problem solving, to come up with the best and most efficient way to make a piece. There are many ways to solve this problem and this was my best solution after trying to carefully dip some pieces and being disappointed in the results for my work. You can also plan ahead when making the piece and incise a line into the clay where you want the glaze to stop. The technique I demonstrated produces a clean and precise transition with a little more work for a more consistent and professional finished piece. Keep coming up with better ways to create and try them and share with others in the clay community when you are successful. Thanks for the comment
What wax resist do you use? I have always used plain canldle wax and only ever directly on the bare bisqued surface. Never realised I could apply resist on the glaze. Thought the powdery surface would not allow it to grip and also thought it might effect the colour during the firing. Many thanks.
Hi Celeste, I use a cold wax resist available from ceramic suppliers like Aardvark Clay in California. I have experimented with many and the best currently available in my opinion is made by Aftosa which is tinted green. Most wax comes white and dries clear so to help seeing where to apply it I will add some food coloring which is organic and will burn away cleanly. All of the ceramic waxes I have used work on top of glaze and do not affect the fired results. Thank you and keep squeezing clay!
Bob Ross of ceramics, thanks for the great videos!
Glad you like them!
Richard's teaching is so excellent and concise, I'm an intermediate potter, and his guidance really has helped fill in my knowledge gaps! Thank you for these videos.
Thank you for your kind comments. Enjoy!
such a great video! You don't assume knowledge but don't talk down to us either. Can't wait to do more sodium silicate pots. You've given me more confidence in what I'm doing. Thanks!!!
I just wanted to say this was absolutely fantastic! I am so grateful to have found your videos and they both help and inspires me!
excellent instruction...stumbled across this video the other day. (it is bookmarked now!). I am a retired educator, and pottery has become my obsession. I think I am intermediate with my skill set and continue to explore new techniques. Professional potters that I have encountered are so giving...that seems to come across in your videos. Thanks so much.
Thank you Lynn.
That's a great video. I'm only a "baby" potter, but I certainly hope to try this technique when my throwing improves.
I’m so glad you mentioned wearing a mask… Breathing in the dust of clay and glazes is really dangerous! YOU should wear a mask also! mistakes are great opportunities to learn...so its nice to watch you correct things.... but there is an easy way to not have to scrape off glaze or sponge it off where it gets into the cracks and could change the way those cracks look…
And that would be to just put the glaze in a wider bucket or pot or bowl or some thing so that you can dip it exactly to the line that you wanted that doesn’t die or brush it on in the first place…
Also if you dip the bottom first you can hold on To the inside of the pot while you dip the bottom and then you can dip the top holding onto the unglazed sides
Masks are very, very important and it is good to adjust their use when working with ceramics appropriately. I always use a mask when glazing, sanding or whenever there is dry glaze in my work area. Also work in a well ventilated area and work in a closed space with a kiln firing. After you are done for the day use a damp sponge to clean up the excess and damp mop.
This video was produced for my students when they had to glaze their work at home with small amounts of glaze. I normally use a large bucket of glaze which allows one to glaze the same way that you recommend. Challenging times call for creative solutions.
Fantastic !!!
Thank you for this!
My pleasure!
That was great! Thank you so much
Thank you for watching, I hope you enjoy using the technique.
Hi Sir. A question, please. You mentioned it is NOT a functional piece? Not sure I listened wrongly. As the inside is a Satin White, should be a Food-Safe glaze, so is it not a functional piece? Pieces are an inspiration to me! :-) Thank you!
Thank you for a great video:) If using a dark glaze, how would you avoid getting it into the cracks?
You can use painters masking tape to protect the cracks from the glaze.
Thank you for the question and for watching.
Thanks for the video. Yesterday (student) I used RIO stain but it absorb because super dry and did not wash off like yours did. Did I do something wrong? I love the brown. Is a wash u mention the same as a stain? Thanks
Make sure you do it on bisque ware so it will wash off the high points. The wash is just iron and rutile mixed with water, brushed on the bisque and sponged off.
Good luck!
Wouldn't it make sense to take more care when dipping so all that scraping and wiping isn't necessary? :-)
Try it, I like the way you think.
One of the elements of ceramics that I love is the problem solving, to come up with the best and most efficient way to make a piece. There are many ways to solve this problem and this was my best solution after trying to carefully dip some pieces and being disappointed in the results for my work.
You can also plan ahead when making the piece and incise a line into the clay where you want the glaze to stop. The technique I demonstrated produces a clean and precise transition with a little more work for a more consistent and professional finished piece.
Keep coming up with better ways to create and try them and share with others in the clay community when you are successful.
Thanks for the comment
What wax resist do you use? I have always used plain canldle wax and only ever directly on the bare bisqued surface. Never realised I could apply resist on the glaze. Thought the powdery surface would not allow it to grip and also thought it might effect the colour during the firing. Many thanks.
Hi Celeste,
I use a cold wax resist available from ceramic suppliers like Aardvark Clay in California. I have experimented with many and the best currently available in my opinion is made by Aftosa which is tinted green. Most wax comes white and dries clear so to help seeing where to apply it I will add some food coloring which is organic and will burn away cleanly. All of the ceramic waxes I have used work on top of glaze and do not affect the fired results.
Thank you and keep squeezing clay!
Would this staining process work for Cone 5 electric kiln firing?
Yes, this will work at cone 5 oxidation although the color will be warmer with iron oxide.
Enjoy and I hope your results are great.
@@richardmccollceramics Thank you for the reply and the great instructional videos.
What cone did you glaze fire? Or do you do an reduction?
I fired this piece to cone 10 in a reduction atmosphere.