I used an old power supply salvaged from an old ATX computer. Found the 12v supply leads and hooked up. 60A. I use it for a diesel fuel pump to fill my tractor.
I use a 200AH battery and i have a 100 watt Solar panel 👍 ! Right now sun up 7:15 & down at 4pm in my spot and i run the heater on One at 4 till 7:15 ! Battery is at 12.3 volts in the morning from 13.7 at 4pm ! Great heaters 👍👍 Dry heat does Not fog the windows like my MR. BUDDY does
Very helpful... I'm testing my PSU here, I got a 10amp one though cause people online kept repeating 10amp... the fuse says 20amp and you mention it too so hopefully we get combustion. Thank you for the tip about setting the voltage ⚡
ideally you want a power supply thats more powerful, than the maximum power draw of the heater.... If the heater draws 10A... You dont want a power supply rated at 10A... because then you are running the power supply at its limit when the heater is drawing 10A.... Can possibly cause thermal shutdown of the power supply, Or worse.. Damage components inside... Always leave a little bit of headroom.... Especially for aging of capacitors etc over time.... If my heater draws 10A,..,... id go for a 15A power supply.. So its never being pushed to its limits
@@RGD-Games Thanks for that! I finally got to test the draw using a multimeter, it seems to be a smooth 7amps on start up then drops off.. so far no issues with it... If it needs replacing I'll definitely move up a notch 👍
I tried the following and now using. I have a 12v deep cycle lead acid battery (located inside the heated area) that's hook to a "load controlling" solar panel charge controller (i used a Xantrex C35 set jumper on load management with digital battery monitoring cover). I have a adjustable 12v power supply ( I used A DROK 24V Power Supply, AC 110V/220V to DC 0-24V 20A 480W Buck Converter, Variable Adjustable Adapter Regulated 5V 12V 24V Volt Switching Voltage LED Transformer 20A Amp Charger) hooked to the solar controller in place of solar panels (faking out controller). I have the heater hooked direct to the battery. The battery i fully charged then removed charger and let is settle to its static state and set my power supply to match that voltage, in my case 12.9v (hence the need for an adjustable 12v power supply). Side note, i then powered my (non battery version $50 Worth it!!!) Bureck CD Thermostat to the battery direct, with a DIY 3.7v step down at stat. I use this system in my chicken coop here in Montana to protect against the artic blasts -20 and lower, my chickens have large combs and get frost bite if i don't supplement the heat. I get a lot of power outages in rural Montana and don't want heater to be on and power go out, this can be very bad!!!. This system works perfect, with perfect battery management and perfect power supply for CDH. Battery has never been over charged once its very happy. I am now at a total set it and forget it status and it feels good as i have been through hell with this issue. Other considerations would be to add a solar panel redundancy as well, Moisture protection, over current protection of course i.e. fuses in load circuits.
Very cool. Thank you! Think I will do the same. Now I just have to make sure as soon as we lose power I have some way to power it to atleast let it cool down so it doesn't melt everything.
My problem with the trickle charger and battery is that the trickle charger wont keep up if the fan is set to high. I think the battery and TC is going to be my plan B. This way shown on the video is the way Im going to go. Thank you for the video.
Hi, I'm trying to run mine off of my RV converter. It reads 12.5 volts DC output, but the heater is reading it at 18+ volts. Any thoughts? Thank you Ken
Question: The power cord you said black is live. White is neutral, and green is ground, but the DC you used black for neutral as in the con and red for live. I am confused.
AC power uses Black for Line voltage, White for Neutral, Green for Ground. DC power is Black is Negative, and Red is Positive. 2 different kinds of power. DON'T MIX THEM UP.
I have a regulated power supply similar to one you have think same one, but will hook to a backup power source or UPS setup to ensure unit cools down if power fails while running. Location unit will be hooked up has frequent power outages in the cold months. Want to ensure it has proper cool down in case of power outage, I will run unit in my wood shop only when I am present so can be around to shut unit down. Perhaps, I can figure way with Arduino setup to auto power unit down in power outage with some type of line power sensor tied into an Arduino unit. Maybe some type of gated backup power battery supplied, will figure out when I get unit installed in coming week or two. Read somewhere about making simple UPS with NAND ICs and a some relays, think I could easily add in a built in timer via simple Arduino type setup to this unit if I make it myself.
I wired a heavy duty 12v accessory plug to a jump pack but just bought one of these. I’m going it wire a female accessory plug to it so anything I need a 12 volt supply to I can use.
My heater says it requires 12v 15 amp to run, will this method work? I noticed your power supply says 12 volt 20 amp. Awesome info thanks for the upload..
Very useful info about voltage setting. i didn't imagine to change the voltage. Mine casue wihte smoke on start up, i read on the lcd of my heater 11 p instead of 12p. Searching on google i read that maybe would be the lower voltage .. i will try to rise up to 12 as you do with a tester . thank you for this video
Low voltage is one of the causes of carbon buildup. I run a 20 to 1 diesel to kerosene mix occasionally to clean out the carbon and the glow plug screen. Sometimes I have to replace the screen to ensure quick ignition but the is a quick and easy job!
What are the draw backs of using this? I find the battery and trickle charge doesn’t always work. Runs battery too low sometimes on start up and if running constantly. Mine runs for about 4 months straight
I thought my heater was faulty when I connected a 12 volt battery to power it. I was getting an error message, indicating the voltage was too high??? But, I was able to get my heater working when I took a smaller size 12 volt battery to power it. But, I needed to keep the charge up, so I had to also run my smart charger to the battery to keep the heater running. But anyway, I'm learning this afternoon, the proper way to run these heaters, is to install a dedicated power supply. Nice video, I'll model my setup now like yours, Thanks.
No no no, I bought 15 A and it’s working to just warm up the diesel heater but when it’s start to heat up it’s stop working and gives me error codes. Hook it up to my car battery, which is 76A and works fantastic
it was advertised as a 8k heater but I think its a bit of false adverting I bet they all put out around 2k of actual heat energy but ether way it won't matter to the power supply, the 8k unit won't pull more electric power it will burn more fuel to make more heat.
Why not just keep a trickle charger on your battery? The way you have , It if the power goes out your diesel heater will melt its electronics when the fan stops. Could possibly even catch on fire..🔥🔥🔥
I use a 15 amp power supply. Looks the same as the one in video. But i have it hooked to a 4amp atv battery and have it set for 12.6 volts. Have lost power and battery is big enough for safe shutdown. That's how i got around that
Yes, but if your battery isn't sufficiently charged, it will shut down without going through the cool-down stage. A trickle charger won't keep up if you run the heater at a higher fan setting. I don't like the diesel heater because of its cool down stage. Basically if it doesn't go thru that stage ( because of loss of power) it could ruin the heater. Losing power happens. For me this isn't a viable option. I hope that it works well for you.
Ive wired mine up to a similar LED transformer but 12v 12.5a one not a 12v 20a as you have, it worked fine to begin with but now when I try to power it up you hear a click and the screen just goes blank. Any ideas?
@@pewpew9040this is just what I was looking for. I used to have a same type bunk heater in a semi, somewhat familiar with the general operations and SOPs. The hacking/repurposing community is suffering violence from the entitled/disposable crowd. I purchased a 12 volt 5 amp power supply, nothing special, because the vivor website indicated for amp usage for the product. The thing shows up and it's saying "greater than 15 amps" on a literal sticker on the positive power input, as well as in the manual. I've heard people complain about the unit smoking because the voltage is at or above but near 12 volts, some presumption that the glow plug cannot operate without 13 to 14 volts; although more than a few of those comments seem like theory and not the juice of application. I do hear a bit of a consensus on 12.8 volts. Surely you have had some decent long-term results under the circumstance? We're probably going to test this once or twice before taking it out in October in the Midwest for a cold weather (but not Arctic) camping endeavor that has 2×20 amp electrical plugs. This Will be sort of a proof of concept, building a little dog house for the guy so he can sleep outside and we aren't re-breathing each other's air. I'm considering options to insulate the base, so as to reduce fuel pump noise, also going to experiment with a diffuser to limit the sound of the exhaust for any neighbors. Also looking at making a plenum / return to possibly improve efficiency but I will look further into any potential hang ups.
Mmmm not a good solution. If the power dies then you will wreck the heater because it wont go through its shutdown cycle. best go back to using a battery with a charger.
@@gurkiratsanghera6745 It's normal to connect a leisure battery to the heater and run the heater off it. Then have the battery on a trickle charger simultaneously. Only con is the cost of batteries. Must be min 10ah.
The only fly in the ointment is - a 12V battery costs as much as a new heater, then you got the expense of buying a battery charger as well. What happens when a cell fails and the battery packs up? A battery can fail as easy as a power supply.
They don't come with a power supply because they're meant to be plugged into a 12v battery system; they're not supposed to be hooked up to mains power because they sustain damage each hard shutdown (unpowered shutdown) they experience. The internet says the German built ones can survive 3-5 shutdowns like that before the electronics inside are fried. I wouldn't be surprised if the Chinese ones can withstand less. It's a real issue for some people; in my area we get a lot of power outages and it would be a bit of a gamble to hook this up right into mains power.
@@itsumonihon the chance of frying the heater depends on how cold is air around (inside or outside mounted) and the setting of actual power output. Also little bit on luck.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I used an old power supply salvaged from an old ATX computer. Found the 12v supply leads and hooked up. 60A. I use it for a diesel fuel pump to fill my tractor.
Dude, thank you so much! You literally saved me so much time and money
I can’t thank you enough this really helped set up basically the same equipment awesome 😊
Fyi: The Vevor diesel heater is at best between 11.5 and 12.8V. as they say in the manual...
Thank you for your video! I just got the same exact power supply. It really helped me to set mine up. God bless!
I use a 200AH battery and i have a 100 watt Solar panel 👍 ! Right now sun up 7:15 & down at 4pm in my spot and i run the heater on One at 4 till 7:15 ! Battery is at 12.3 volts in the morning from 13.7 at 4pm ! Great heaters 👍👍 Dry heat does Not fog the windows like my MR. BUDDY does
i've got a S-120-12
ac input 110/220 volt.
dc output +12v. 10 amp. i sent mine back and got the 20 amp., thanks to amazon.
worked perfect! I had two so have both set for either/or now.
Thanks
Thank you for this video! I got a similar power supply just with more amps for my Vevor diesel heater.
Very helpful... I'm testing my PSU here, I got a 10amp one though cause people online kept repeating 10amp... the fuse says 20amp and you mention it too so hopefully we get combustion. Thank you for the tip about setting the voltage ⚡
ideally you want a power supply thats more powerful, than the maximum power draw of the heater....
If the heater draws 10A... You dont want a power supply rated at 10A... because then you are running the power supply at its limit when the heater is drawing 10A....
Can possibly cause thermal shutdown of the power supply, Or worse.. Damage components inside...
Always leave a little bit of headroom.... Especially for aging of capacitors etc over time....
If my heater draws 10A,..,... id go for a 15A power supply.. So its never being pushed to its limits
@@RGD-Games Thanks for that! I finally got to test the draw using a multimeter, it seems to be a smooth 7amps on start up then drops off.. so far no issues with it... If it needs replacing I'll definitely move up a notch 👍
@byrne1916 it's only pulling high Amps as the glow plug heats up the amp draw drops which it's warm
I tried the following and now using. I have a 12v deep cycle lead acid battery (located inside the heated area) that's hook to a "load controlling" solar panel charge controller (i used a Xantrex C35 set jumper on load management with digital battery monitoring cover). I have a adjustable 12v power supply ( I used A DROK 24V Power Supply, AC 110V/220V to DC 0-24V 20A 480W Buck Converter, Variable Adjustable Adapter Regulated 5V 12V 24V Volt Switching Voltage LED Transformer 20A Amp Charger) hooked to the solar controller in place of solar panels (faking out controller). I have the heater hooked direct to the battery. The battery i fully charged then removed charger and let is settle to its static state and set my power supply to match that voltage, in my case 12.9v (hence the need for an adjustable 12v power supply). Side note, i then powered my (non battery version $50 Worth it!!!) Bureck CD Thermostat to the battery direct, with a DIY 3.7v step down at stat. I use this system in my chicken coop here in Montana to protect against the artic blasts -20 and lower, my chickens have large combs and get frost bite if i don't supplement the heat. I get a lot of power outages in rural Montana and don't want heater to be on and power go out, this can be very bad!!!. This system works perfect, with perfect battery management and perfect power supply for CDH. Battery has never been over charged once its very happy. I am now at a total set it and forget it status and it feels good as i have been through hell with this issue. Other considerations would be to add a solar panel redundancy as well, Moisture protection, over current protection of course i.e. fuses in load circuits.
Very cool. Thank you!
Think I will do the same.
Now I just have to make sure as soon as we lose power I have some way to power it to atleast let it cool down so it doesn't melt everything.
How much power is it drawing from the wall? we live off grid and remote and I would not mind doing this.
@3:22 I jumped . lol . thought something let the magic smoke out !
Can you use a Jackery with the Led power supply?
yes plug into the car charge port
My problem with the trickle charger and battery is that the trickle charger wont keep up if the fan is set to high. I think the battery and TC is going to be my plan B. This way shown on the video is the way Im going to go. Thank you for the video.
Wonder what hapens when power is cut and heater is not properly cool down does it melt the plastic housing?
How long will the heater go for on a fully charged battery on the highest setting ?? 2-4 days ?
Hi, I'm trying to run mine off of my RV converter.
It reads 12.5 volts DC output, but the heater is reading it at 18+ volts.
Any thoughts?
Thank you
Ken
Great video glad i ran into this now i know what to buy ps those mounting aluminum brackets awesome i was gonna use wood lol thx
Question: The power cord you said black is live. White is neutral, and green is ground, but the DC you used black for neutral as in the con and red for live. I am confused.
AC power uses Black for Line voltage, White for Neutral, Green for Ground.
DC power is Black is Negative, and Red is Positive.
2 different kinds of power. DON'T MIX THEM UP.
I have a regulated power supply similar to one you have think same one, but will hook to a backup power source or UPS setup to ensure unit cools down if power fails while running. Location unit will be hooked up has frequent power outages in the cold months. Want to ensure it has proper cool down in case of power outage, I will run unit in my wood shop only when I am present so can be around to shut unit down. Perhaps, I can figure way with Arduino setup to auto power unit down in power outage with some type of line power sensor tied into an Arduino unit. Maybe some type of gated backup power battery supplied, will figure out when I get unit installed in coming week or two. Read somewhere about making simple UPS with NAND ICs and a some relays, think I could easily add in a built in timer via simple Arduino type setup to this unit if I make it myself.
I wired a heavy duty 12v accessory plug to a jump pack but just bought one of these. I’m going it wire a female accessory plug to it so anything I need a 12 volt supply to I can use.
My heater says it requires 12v 15 amp to run, will this method work? I noticed your power supply says 12 volt 20 amp.
Awesome info thanks for the upload..
I use a $27 15a AC to dc power supply straight from Amazon. Works fine for my 8kw vevors.
awesome thank you!
How many watts is the best option ?
Very useful info about voltage setting. i didn't imagine to change the voltage. Mine casue wihte smoke on start up, i read on the lcd of my heater 11 p instead of 12p. Searching on google i read that maybe would be the lower voltage .. i will try to rise up to 12 as you do with a tester . thank you for this video
Low voltage is one of the causes of carbon buildup. I run a 20 to 1 diesel to kerosene mix occasionally to clean out the carbon and the glow plug screen. Sometimes I have to replace the screen to ensure quick ignition but the is a quick and easy job!
Trickle charger and battery is the safest way.
What are the draw backs of using this? I find the battery and trickle charge doesn’t always work. Runs battery too low sometimes on start up and if running constantly. Mine runs for about 4 months straight
@@davecarbone2977 In the case of power shut-off you can fry the heater because before turning off it needs cool-down run.
@@jan_vyhnakhas that happened to you ?
@@topcat15191961 yap. fried bearings.. so it runs since but its noisy.
I thought my heater was faulty when I connected a 12 volt battery to power it.
I was getting an error message, indicating the voltage was too high???
But, I was able to get my heater working when I took a smaller size 12 volt battery to power it.
But, I needed to keep the charge up, so I had to also run my smart charger to the battery to
keep the heater running.
But anyway, I'm learning this afternoon, the proper way to run these heaters, is to install
a dedicated power supply. Nice video, I'll model my setup now like yours, Thanks.
I have done this and it is the best way to get a long life out of your heater and battery. Good job!
I have a 220 to 12 V converter for wall outlet. The heater I intend to buy needs 15 A, wouldn't this do if the converter provides this?
No no no, I bought 15 A and it’s working to just warm up the diesel heater but when it’s start to heat up it’s stop working and gives me error codes. Hook it up to my car battery, which is 76A and works fantastic
Thank you
How did you connect that 12v cigarette plug coz it did not come with the heater??
Get rid of the aluminium tube on your inlet... aluminium bits fly off and block air hole eventually
Is it a 5kw or 8kw heater? I've order a 8kw. Is that powersupply enouth then or do a have to ramp up to 25 amp -300w?
it was advertised as a 8k heater but I think its a bit of false adverting I bet they all put out around 2k of actual heat energy but ether way it won't matter to the power supply, the 8k unit won't pull more electric power it will burn more fuel to make more heat.
Could you also have a backup battery hooked up in-case a power outage
Could I plug this power supply into my solar generator?
Why not just keep a trickle charger on your battery? The way you have , It if the power goes out your diesel heater will melt its electronics when the fan stops. Could possibly even catch on fire..🔥🔥🔥
Would a 1 Amp trickle charger keep up?
I use a 15 amp power supply. Looks the same as the one in video. But i have it hooked to a 4amp atv battery and have it set for 12.6 volts. Have lost power and battery is big enough for safe shutdown. That's how i got around that
Great Information thanks.
Safer on a battery with a charger tbh! If the power goes out...
Yes.
Yes, but if your battery isn't sufficiently charged, it will shut down without going through the cool-down stage. A trickle charger won't keep up if you run the heater at a higher fan setting. I don't like the diesel heater because of its cool down stage. Basically if it doesn't go thru that stage ( because of loss of power) it could ruin the heater. Losing power happens. For me this isn't a viable option. I hope that it works well for you.
@@jeffvoght1632 True, I check mine with a meter so I know if I need to charge it.
If you do not have a guarteed back up power supply ( a UPS or battery ) you run the risk of a " china syndrome " should the lights go out .
Ive wired mine up to a similar LED transformer but 12v 12.5a one not a 12v 20a as you have, it worked fine to begin with but now when I try to power it up you hear a click and the screen just goes blank. Any ideas?
Current not enough,this cheap power supply does not have real power. I use an old xbox360 12V 16A power supply. Cheap and good price
@@pewpew9040this is just what I was looking for.
I used to have a same type bunk heater in a semi, somewhat familiar with the general operations and SOPs.
The hacking/repurposing community is suffering violence from the entitled/disposable crowd.
I purchased a 12 volt 5 amp power supply, nothing special, because the vivor website indicated for amp usage for the product.
The thing shows up and it's saying "greater than 15 amps" on a literal sticker on the positive power input, as well as in the manual.
I've heard people complain about the unit smoking because the voltage is at or above but near 12 volts, some presumption that the glow plug cannot operate without 13 to 14 volts; although more than a few of those comments seem like theory and not the juice of application.
I do hear a bit of a consensus on 12.8 volts.
Surely you have had some decent long-term results under the circumstance?
We're probably going to test this once or twice before taking it out in October in the Midwest for a cold weather (but not Arctic) camping endeavor that has 2×20 amp electrical plugs.
This Will be sort of a proof of concept, building a little dog house for the guy so he can sleep outside and we aren't re-breathing each other's air.
I'm considering options to insulate the base, so as to reduce fuel pump noise, also going to experiment with a diffuser to limit the sound of the exhaust for any neighbors.
Also looking at making a plenum / return to possibly improve efficiency but I will look further into any potential hang ups.
Doesn't a cell phone charge cord step down 120v > 12v?
Yes but it doesn't supply enough amps most phone chargers only produce 1 to 2 amps
Use spades !
Thanks, eh!
Bad choice, no crimp ends and no strain clamp = disaster.
Mmmm not a good solution. If the power dies then you will wreck the heater because it wont go through its shutdown cycle. best go back to using a battery with a charger.
How is that any different that a battery dying and the heater not going into cooling mode? Not being cocky asking seriously
The battery does not die rightway, the shut down needs 5 minutes to cool down
@@gurkiratsanghera6745 It's normal to connect a leisure battery to the heater and run the heater off it. Then have the battery on a trickle charger simultaneously. Only con is the cost of batteries. Must be min 10ah.
The only fly in the ointment is - a 12V battery costs as much as a new heater, then you got the expense of buying a battery charger as well.
What happens when a cell fails and the battery packs up? A battery can fail as easy as a power supply.
Or have a back up battery
Yeah I was thinking 12 volts like from my truck battery. Why not just plug the dang thing into an outlet instead of all this business. 😒
The whole power supply problem is just dumb. The fact it doesn’t come with it is the stupidest shit I’ve seen this week.
They don't come with a power supply because they're meant to be plugged into a 12v battery system; they're not supposed to be hooked up to mains power because they sustain damage each hard shutdown (unpowered shutdown) they experience. The internet says the German built ones can survive 3-5 shutdowns like that before the electronics inside are fried. I wouldn't be surprised if the Chinese ones can withstand less. It's a real issue for some people; in my area we get a lot of power outages and it would be a bit of a gamble to hook this up right into mains power.
@@itsumonihon the chance of frying the heater depends on how cold is air around (inside or outside mounted) and the setting of actual power output. Also little bit on luck.