Great video. I’m guessing that the excessive end play on the second wheel allowed it to disengage from the third wheel when you applied pressure while pressing on the sweep second hand. This took the escapement out of the picture, allowing the mainspring to drive the second wheel at high speed - not a pleasant sight. I’m guessing that one of the jewels on the second wheel was shifted vertically, causing the end play. Maybe the fix is to press that jewel back into place (and source a new seconds hand). But I’m just a novice so I’m looking forward to the next episode!
@@therealwatchdoctor Many thanks for the shout-out on your subsequent video! These are really helpful to those of us who are trying to improve our skills. And your editing of these is outstanding- enough detail to be instructive without forcing the viewer to watch the entire process, Bravo!
Normally a video like this is very calming for me, in the end you scared the crap out of me. Can't wait for the next video, thanks. By the way, very courageous to publish this video anyway.
Bedankt Joop! :-) Ja, ik heb zitten twijfelen of ik de video wel online zou zetten, maar toen dacht ik, waarom ook niet? En ik heb het dan ook maar direct in de titel gezet, en ik moet zeggen, het is mijn meest bekeken video op zo'n korte tijd :-). Iedereen maakt wel eens een fout, en zolang dat jullie er ook iets van kunnen leren is dat toch super, niet? Bedankt voor de reactie ;-)
Absolutely great video tutorial! The precision work accompanied with part names and lubrication types - this is what we need to get on our own path to exciting room of horology. And a video quality is amazing. Thanks a lot!
Loved the pull and explosion when pulling off that piece of Rodico! Very detailed vídeo, especially with the oiling. I am not sure what happened at the end when you placed the hands. Thanks so much for all the work you put into your videos.
Thanks Ben about the feedback "Loved the pull and explosion when pulling off that piece of Rodico!", always nice to hear, because for me it was also just a 'try' to get some more special 'ASMR' fragments in the video. You're welcome!
Hi. Naming the pieces and the oils used is great for an amateur like me. I really would like to see a video about the correct time to change day / date because, in the past, I have damaged a couple. Keep going :)
Thanks for sharing this human aspect of your work. You have very knowledgeable followers. Thanks to you and the experienced people who shared their experiences.
Thanks Frank, 'You have very knowledgeable followers', yes indeed and I love it, and that is very nice! This is expanding every week, which is nice to see all those reactions. Learn from each other as watchmakers and watch enthusiasts. And creating a nice community here on UA-cam, that's a nice feeling!
The novodiac springs took me 2 months on my first eta. They went flying, and took forever to order. Then got lost again and after ordering them again with a tool it took me another week of trying. Insane
Thanks DutchClawz, thanks for your story. It certainly takes some training, those shock springs, I also had enough see flying around when I was in school. These days you also find myself on my knees looking under my workbench :-) but fortunately this has decreased a lot compared to when I began :-)
I was taught to always use a movement holder with a jewel support for this reason when pressing on cannon pinions and hands. Over time, if parts are pushed on without support of the jewel, you will end up increasing end shake.
Thanks for your story, end did you learn from it? :-) This might be a good tip, in the future I will make sure that the watch is no longer wound when I place the hands, then this cannot happen again ;-)
I think pretty much all watchmakers have experienced that mistake before. Bummer. Hope you have the right movement holder, BG1996 or an equivalent. They're definitely worth it!
Hello Jimmy, thanks for the comment and nice to see you again :-). Ik do not have a movement holder like that at the moment, but I will order 1 as soon as possible :-). In my next video you will see how I provisionally put togheter a movement holder so that I can still support the jewel.
Since you took the play out of the second wheel, did tension build up with it? Then when you put the sweep seconds hand on it released it? Just a guess. Looking forward to the next one.
I did reluctantly give this a thumbs up. Not enjoying when things go bad for other people. Almost sh..t my pants with that sudden power release! But very informative and interesting video! Looking forward to the next episode. 👍 p.s The only good thing with this. Is to realize that even pro’s gets in trouble sometimes. For some reason. I have made a huge 🧲 “ping” finder.. 😬😂
Just forgot put the hand setting movement holder if really without that holder I prefer hand setting without holder just let the movement backside attached to the flat surface evenly . I saw the end shake is a bit bit too much right ? I’m still learning and just share the thought i had deal before , also hope your professional sharing and advise as well
Helo Jeremy, it's the first time that happened to me in my workshop, so I never used a support before, however, when placing the chrono hand on an eta 7750 I do. In combination with a little to much end shake this was happened indeed. You will see al the details in my next video ;-)
Queston for you. My new Junghans Max Bill makes a lot of rotor noise. Is this normal? Ive hear other people have the same issue with this watch due to the ETA movement.
Die Horotec wijzerzetters zijn goed voor Quartz horloges, maar voor mechanische binnenwerken ging ik toch voor de "hand setting tool" van Bergeon met de bijhorende werkhouders met ondersteunende schroef. ;-) Succes met het rechtzetten van de fout... Hopelijk kan je de seconde wijzer redden, of nieuwe zoeken. :-(
Dag K me, bedankt voor de reactie. Ik ben altijd zeer tevreden geweest van deze movement holder, tot zover nooit problemen mee gehad, ook niet voor mechanische uurwerken. Aangezien ik dit nu tegengekomen ben, heb ik reeds een nieuwe besteld, speciaal voor de ETA 2824 met ondersteuningsschroef voor de jewel :-). Voor Omega heb ik voor elk caliber een andere houder, met jewel support, dus daar ben ik dit nooit tegengekomen. In mijn volgende video zal je kunnen zien hoe ik deze fout ga trachten recht te zetten.
@@therealwatchdoctor Boley heeft universele houders, betaalbaar... boley.de/en/shop/1853.watches Universal movement holder made of metal with base Ø 31mm and adjustable hollow centre screw, suitable for the hand press bars of Boley and Bergeon. Swiss-Made.
the second needle break because in the other extremity (dial size), the second needle have to be block. 2 solution : a specific ETA 2824 caliber support with a center screw which block the second needle Or keep the rotor in place in order to avoid the pressure on the second needle. If you make a pressure on second needle without being block, cogs move and they loose their places.
I Like the Bauhaus design of Junghans very much, but the movements used are not that special, but good quality so. I think you pay the most for the design of junghans. Seiko price/quality is certainly not bad, but the Seiko's from the past were better.
Great video. I’m guessing that the excessive end play on the second wheel allowed it to disengage from the third wheel when you applied pressure while pressing on the sweep second hand. This took the escapement out of the picture, allowing the mainspring to drive the second wheel at high speed - not a pleasant sight. I’m guessing that one of the jewels on the second wheel was shifted vertically, causing the end play. Maybe the fix is to press that jewel back into place (and source a new seconds hand). But I’m just a novice so I’m looking forward to the next episode!
Hello Paul, You hit the nail on the head! Thanks you for your nice extensive explanation, I couldn't put it better!
@@therealwatchdoctor Many thanks for the shout-out on your subsequent video! These are really helpful to those of us who are trying to improve our skills. And your editing of these is outstanding- enough detail to be instructive without forcing the viewer to watch the entire process, Bravo!
Normally a video like this is very calming for me, in the end you scared the crap out of me.
Can't wait for the next video, thanks.
By the way, very courageous to publish this video anyway.
Bedankt Joop! :-) Ja, ik heb zitten twijfelen of ik de video wel online zou zetten, maar toen dacht ik, waarom ook niet? En ik heb het dan ook maar direct in de titel gezet, en ik moet zeggen, het is mijn meest bekeken video op zo'n korte tijd :-). Iedereen maakt wel eens een fout, en zolang dat jullie er ook iets van kunnen leren is dat toch super, niet? Bedankt voor de reactie ;-)
Really appreciate the time you took to supply us the references of each part!
Would love to see a future video on how to replace a balance as! 😆
Thanks H M, this is not planned yet, but I will take it into account ;-)
You are truly a pure purist watch maker... 🏆🥇🏅🎖
Absolutely great video tutorial! The precision work accompanied with part names and lubrication types - this is what we need to get on our own path to exciting room of horology. And a video quality is amazing. Thanks a lot!
Thanks a lot Valentech ;-). Nice to hear that :-)
Loved the pull and explosion when pulling off that piece of Rodico! Very detailed vídeo, especially with the oiling. I am not sure what happened at the end when you placed the hands. Thanks so much for all the work you put into your videos.
Thanks Ben about the feedback "Loved the pull and explosion when pulling off that piece of Rodico!", always nice to hear, because for me it was also just a 'try' to get some more special 'ASMR' fragments in the video. You're welcome!
Absolutely fascinating. Thank you for taking the time to put movement, reference number and oil type.
Thanks for your comment Vinnie! You're welcome :-)
Hi. Naming the pieces and the oils used is great for an amateur like me. I really would like to see a video about the correct time to change day / date because, in the past, I have damaged a couple. Keep going :)
Thanks Carlos, you will see this in one off my next video's ;-)
Thanks for sharing this human aspect of your work. You have very knowledgeable followers. Thanks to you and the experienced people who shared their experiences.
Thanks Frank, 'You have very knowledgeable followers', yes indeed and I love it, and that is very nice! This is expanding every week, which is nice to see all those reactions. Learn from each other as watchmakers and watch enthusiasts. And creating a nice community here on UA-cam, that's a nice feeling!
The novodiac springs took me 2 months on my first eta. They went flying, and took forever to order. Then got lost again and after ordering them again with a tool it took me another week of trying. Insane
Thanks for sharing that experience. I love watching these pros but shy away from doing it myself even on a cheap movement.
Thanks DutchClawz, thanks for your story. It certainly takes some training, those shock springs, I also had enough see flying around when I was in school. These days you also find myself on my knees looking under my workbench :-) but fortunately this has decreased a lot compared to when I began :-)
Thanks Frank ;-) "I love watching these pros" I also make mistakes and still learn every day, that's the great thing about this profession
Vergissen is menselijk, mooie video weer!😊
Bedankt Mikey. Inderdaad, en als we er weer iets van hebben opgestoken zoveel te beter he.
Hi am very happy to see you again thanks for your video
Thanks Almasri! 😉
Great video, thanks. Obviously we would like to see more
Thanks Baam 😃
I was taught to always use a movement holder with a jewel support for this reason when pressing on cannon pinions and hands. Over time, if parts are pushed on without support of the jewel, you will end up increasing end shake.
Hello Brian, completely correct, now I understand this even better and I will certainly take it into account ;-)
That insane spin when pushing down the hands happened to me, smashed the lume out of the minute hand and dented both the hand and an hour marker 😓
Thanks for your story, end did you learn from it? :-) This might be a good tip, in the future I will make sure that the watch is no longer wound when I place the hands, then this cannot happen again ;-)
@@therealwatchdoctor Yeah! First thing I do now after I check that the trainwheels and pellet fork click like they are supposed to :)
I think pretty much all watchmakers have experienced that mistake before. Bummer. Hope you have the right movement holder, BG1996 or an equivalent. They're definitely worth it!
Hello Jimmy, thanks for the comment and nice to see you again :-). Ik do not have a movement holder like that at the moment, but I will order 1 as soon as possible :-). In my next video you will see how I provisionally put togheter a movement holder so that I can still support the jewel.
What's the reason for you to fully assemble the motion side of the movement before putting in any of the train?
Since you took the play out of the second wheel, did tension build up with it? Then when you put the sweep seconds hand on it released it? Just a guess. Looking forward to the next one.
Hello Filip, good guess... you will find out in my next video ;-). Thanks for the comment.
I did reluctantly give this a thumbs up. Not enjoying when things go bad for other people.
Almost sh..t my pants with that sudden power release!
But very informative and interesting video!
Looking forward to the next episode. 👍
p.s
The only good thing with this. Is to realize that even pro’s gets in trouble sometimes.
For some reason. I have made a huge 🧲 “ping” finder.. 😬😂
Good man. I often have that same feeling about thumbs up.
Thanks for the comment, and if you have learned something from this video then a thumbs up is very nice to get. Thanks
If you have learned something from this video then a thumbs up is always very nice to get :-)
Awesome video, details are amazing, thank you for sharing with us 😊👌
Thanks Ramone, nice to see you again ;-)
Just forgot put the hand setting movement holder if really without that holder I prefer hand setting without holder just let the movement backside attached to the flat surface evenly . I saw the end shake is a bit bit too much right ? I’m still learning and just share the thought i had deal before , also hope your professional sharing and advise as well
The universal movement holder is forbidden tool while in hand setting therefore rather without it to holding when set hand
Helo Jeremy, it's the first time that happened to me in my workshop, so I never used a support before, however, when placing the chrono hand on an eta 7750 I do. In combination with a little to much end shake this was happened indeed. You will see al the details in my next video ;-)
Queston for you. My new Junghans Max Bill makes a lot of rotor noise. Is this normal? Ive hear other people have the same issue with this watch due to the ETA movement.
Die Horotec wijzerzetters zijn goed voor Quartz horloges, maar voor mechanische binnenwerken ging ik toch voor de "hand setting tool" van Bergeon met de bijhorende werkhouders met ondersteunende schroef. ;-) Succes met het rechtzetten van de fout... Hopelijk kan je de seconde wijzer redden, of nieuwe zoeken. :-(
Dag K me, bedankt voor de reactie. Ik ben altijd zeer tevreden geweest van deze movement holder, tot zover nooit problemen mee gehad, ook niet voor mechanische uurwerken. Aangezien ik dit nu tegengekomen ben, heb ik reeds een nieuwe besteld, speciaal voor de ETA 2824 met ondersteuningsschroef voor de jewel :-). Voor Omega heb ik voor elk caliber een andere houder, met jewel support, dus daar ben ik dit nooit tegengekomen. In mijn volgende video zal je kunnen zien hoe ik deze fout ga trachten recht te zetten.
@@therealwatchdoctor Boley heeft universele houders, betaalbaar... boley.de/en/shop/1853.watches Universal movement holder made of metal with base Ø 31mm and adjustable hollow centre screw, suitable for the hand press bars of Boley and Bergeon. Swiss-Made.
Click spring?
Hello, wat do you mean?
@@therealwatchdoctor Click or spring failed and mainspring unwound?
the second needle break because in the other extremity (dial size), the second needle have to be block. 2 solution : a specific ETA 2824 caliber support with a center screw which block the second needle Or keep the rotor in place in order to avoid the pressure on the second needle. If you make a pressure on second needle without being block, cogs move and they loose their places.
I'd like to see a video illustrating how we can damage our movements by changing the date at the wrong time of day
Thanks T L ;-), nice to hear your feedback.
Don't you think this watch's build quality doesn't match the price? I feel Seiko is a better buy?
I Like the Bauhaus design of Junghans very much, but the movements used are not that special, but good quality so. I think you pay the most for the design of junghans. Seiko price/quality is certainly not bad, but the Seiko's from the past were better.
man, that hand press hurts to watch. I would have panicked xD
Thanks Rodrigo, the first few seconds I was not sure what was happening, then when this was clear I swore hard :-)
It looks like everything unwound. Balance not controlling the movement? No way am I skilled to work in these marvelous machines.
Hello, indeed, I tell you every detail in my next video. Thanks for the comment ;-)
#49 thumbs uP
Thanks Steve ;-)
“Lubricate generously” puts 2 microns oil on the part. I would not have te dexterity our patience for this.
BZZZZZZZZZZ!
:)