Hey Tom, thanks for posting! I have a 16 Currituck I'm weighing with a scale followed by a 13'. I'm gonna find out whether or not to refoam or seal it up and run them for the summer lol.
For the record refoaming should be the last resort! All Whalers have water in the foam and most do just fine. I’m certainly not going to say this was necessary or everyone should cut open their Whalers.
Absolutely agree with your statement, hence actually weighing them to see just how bad they are. Keep up the good work, we are looking forward to see some more video!
You’re making great Progress! How do you like the GoBoard after working with it? Looks very interesting and a lot less expensive then Coosa Board. Definitely keep up the narration, this series will definitely get more views! Your project looks great, looking forward to the next episode! 👍
Yeah it was good to get back to it, definitely had to rush but all good. I think the GoBoard is awesome. Thought long and hard about Plywood vs. Divinycell at $140/ sheet, less so about Coosa at $330/sheet. I had a scrap piece of 1 1/2" Coosa for the transom so it felt wrong to go plywood. I've done a few stringers out of 4" PolyIso roof board so had no worries about using this. The 1/2" wouldn't work for a traditional deck, but with a solid foam filled hull there is plenty of support. The top will get 1708 so it'll have dent resistance too when we throw a mooring on there.
@@capttomharty Sounds good, what are your future plans for the boat? I watched the whole video in one sitting lol. Love this stuff. Keep the videos and narration coming!
@@spinfish1434 This will be a beater on Nantucket for the whole family to use. Fishing, clams, beach, waterskiing, and probably a bit of light duty work.
I should have let the deck bond a bit longer and harden up, or even glass it down but jumped the gun. Watching the deck rise in the time lapse was brutal!
Hey Tom. Nice work. I have the same hull in super rough shape. I plan to do the same thing. The goboard is a great idea and I think I will use that as well. What are your thoughts on creating a skeleton frame with go board supports under the deck for foam compartments? I’m thinking of doing that and gluing the deck panels to the framing, then holes to pour foam in each compartment. Maybe that would keep the deck panel from warping.
Yeah, the warping was my fault from too big of a foam pour. If I were to do it again I think I'd probably do a stringer grid out of 3" PolyIso foam (same material as GoBoard but wider). I would pour foam, sand/ level and fill, and then glue deck panels. Voids are inevitable in any top down pour.
If you look at my first video on this project you can see the original wiring. It comes up through the foam at the bow, but does go bad over time. Its common to run a wire under the rub rail if the factory wire is compromised.
for sure It will come out a very nice one
Hey Tom, thanks for posting! I have a 16 Currituck I'm weighing with a scale followed by a 13'. I'm gonna find out whether or not to refoam or seal it up and run them for the summer lol.
For the record refoaming should be the last resort! All Whalers have water in the foam and most do just fine. I’m certainly not going to say this was necessary or everyone should cut open their Whalers.
Absolutely agree with your statement, hence actually weighing them to see just how bad they are. Keep up the good work, we are looking forward to see some more video!
You’re making great Progress! How do you like the GoBoard after working with it? Looks very interesting and a lot less expensive then Coosa Board. Definitely keep up the narration, this series will definitely get more views! Your project looks great, looking forward to the next episode! 👍
Yeah it was good to get back to it, definitely had to rush but all good. I think the GoBoard is awesome. Thought long and hard about Plywood vs. Divinycell at $140/ sheet, less so about Coosa at $330/sheet. I had a scrap piece of 1 1/2" Coosa for the transom so it felt wrong to go plywood. I've done a few stringers out of 4" PolyIso roof board so had no worries about using this. The 1/2" wouldn't work for a traditional deck, but with a solid foam filled hull there is plenty of support. The top will get 1708 so it'll have dent resistance too when we throw a mooring on there.
@@capttomharty Sounds good, what are your future plans for the boat? I watched the whole video in one sitting lol. Love this stuff. Keep the videos and narration coming!
@@spinfish1434 This will be a beater on Nantucket for the whole family to use. Fishing, clams, beach, waterskiing, and probably a bit of light duty work.
Good morning Tom, good to hear from you. I don't think I would have done anything differently. Foam exspansion is at best a geuss
I should have let the deck bond a bit longer and harden up, or even glass it down but jumped the gun. Watching the deck rise in the time lapse was brutal!
It's therapeutic watching this. Is that PVC for the cable and drain?
Hey Tom. Nice work. I have the same hull in super rough shape. I plan to do the same thing. The goboard is a great idea and I think I will use that as well. What are your thoughts on creating a skeleton frame with go board supports under the deck for foam compartments? I’m thinking of doing that and gluing the deck panels to the framing, then holes to pour foam in each compartment. Maybe that would keep the deck panel from warping.
Yeah, the warping was my fault from too big of a foam pour. If I were to do it again I think I'd probably do a stringer grid out of 3" PolyIso foam (same material as GoBoard but wider). I would pour foam, sand/ level and fill, and then glue deck panels. Voids are inevitable in any top down pour.
Thanks for the reply. Great idea! Can’t wait for episode 3!
@@capttomhartydid you use polyester resin or epoxy resin with this build?
@@thomasbarbjr.5934 All poly
I'm working on a 17 for my boss and can't seem to find the wire from the bow light to the consol , you have any insight on this ?
If you look at my first video on this project you can see the original wiring. It comes up through the foam at the bow, but does go bad over time. Its common to run a wire under the rub rail if the factory wire is compromised.
How much of a budget would you set aside for a job like this including the foam and decking. Also how did you flip her to work on bottom ?
Lots of variables of course, but looking to do this for around $2k in materials. As for flipping, without the foam it only took 2 of us to lift.
@@capttomhartythanks for the information I really appreciate your videos
What brand resin did you use in this video?
go board ? it is back by foam?
Why all the time and effort it's not like you can't find a boat like that in good condition
For a learning experience and to make custom for your own needs
Those who don't know boat stands for bust out another thousand