Many thanks! I've owned this turntable since I was in high school, way back in 1977. It was time for a belt replacement and I could not get the platter to come off. Your heat trick made the difference.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. A friend gave me this turntable. It was sitting in his shed for years and it was all seized up, just like the one in the video. Thanks to you, I have managed to restore it and now it works like a charm. I would not have been able to do anything without your clear and detailed instructions.
Really appreciate all your video's I've learnt so much from your guidance and I've managed to build my whole Hi Fi system from unwanted faulty units and indeed I use 3 in 1 oil on my JVC turntable and other moving small parts and it works incredibly well and never gums up.
I have a Kenwood variant of this, except the arm is the 80's straight arm unit with the offset ADC headshell. It has that same type of bearing and a very simple semi auto mechanism that simply pushes the arm back to the rest position so less intrusive than some mechanisms of this level of table. The plinth is definitely black plastic (molded no less. Everything is screwed into stanchions holding all the parts, however, mine is a DC motor with a frequency generated speed change. My parents originally bought it in 1985 and I've had it since 1999 and to this day, it still chooches along nicely and runs a Grado Prestige Green 1 cart and goes in to a nice external phono stage to a NAD 7240PE receiver, like the one you fixed. I need to clean the tape monitor switch in mine today. For a budget table, it sounds quite good, in fact more than good but it does take a good cart and phono stage to get it sounding good with most of these.
If it's a DC motor, how can it have a "frequency generated speed change"? Changing from 33 to 45 RPM with a switch or button would normally be accomplished by changing the voltage to the motor , for a DC motor anyway. Are you talking about it perhaps having a Hall sensor inside the motor to help control the voltage and speed? Or that feeds speed information to a servo circuit?
@@goodun6081 According to the instruction manual for my table, it is indeed a quartz PLL coreless/slotless DC servo motor and it's got a circuit board to adjust the speed for 33.3 and 45rpm speeds individually, though a royal pain as the trim pots are on the board itself and requires you to take off the Masonite board that covers the bottom of the table.
Hi. At a thrift store I found a JVC JL-A20 for $20. I put a new belt on it, but it just didn't turn fast enough. So I put it away for a year thinking, I'll just buy a new TT. But I decided to get on YT to see if I could trouble shoot it. As it turns out, the platter bearing was seized as well. It didn't take me long at all to take care of the issue as you explained. In my case the motor wasn't making any noise. So I put it back together. Downloaded an app to test the speed. The numbers were as follows: 33.07/33.25. Now I'm going to hook it up to my amp and see how it works. I had purchased from Amazon along with an Audio Technica cartridge/needle? I'll put up ;an update as soon as possible. Thank you!
I know some idiots who tied their washing machine to the wall. They never read the manual where the transport screws were mentioned and each time the machine did a spin cycle it would start walking. They actually broke two washing machines until they figured out that those screws had to be taken out.
I used to work in retail selling washing machines (among other things). At least once a month some idiot came back with a busted washer. They ignored the sticker (that was taped over the latch) on the door saying WARNING in big, red letters. Then they opened the door and was greeted with a huge paper inside the drum, again with WARNING in big red letters. Then the screws themselves (in the back) had huge, red plugs on them and the power cord was affixed to them. Still, they managed to hook it up and start it with the transport screws in and somehow it was always our fault. Edit: Another goodie... People buying vacuum cleaners and skipping the quite important step of putting a bag in it before use.
When I was younger, my parents bought a house that had been built in the 1950s. The previous owner had decided to install a washer and dryer in the garage. Running the electric for the dryer and providing the vent hose wasn't a big deal, nor was running hot and cold water lines to the garage from the kitchen. But there was no provision in the garage for a drain, and adding one would have required tearing up the concrete slab, so the previous owner apparently thought long and hard and came up with a 'solution'. He engineered some sort of Rube Goldberg adapter and used a GARDEN HOSE to connect the drain port of the washer. The garden hose ran up the wall, over the ceiling, down the kitchen wall, and got spliced into the kitchen sink drain. The washer and dryer was left behind when when the previous owner moved, so my parents never knew any of this. Until the washing machine quit working. Of course, the natural assumption was that the machine was just old, so they went out and bought a shiny new one. When they went to install it, that's when they discovered what the previous owner had done. The delivery/install guy simply said, 'Nope' and explained that the pump in modern washers, being made of plastic, would never last pumping water UP that far, and he was in fact surprised that the old washer had managed to last as long as it had. Best guess: that contrivance had 'worked' for well over a decade. A testament, I suppose, to the bulletproof nature of old appliances. We ended up tearing the sink out of one of the bathrooms and installing the washer there. Even so, the new washer barely lasted four years. Cheap piece of crap.
thank you! i just picked up this unit from a thrift store for $20 and it had the same problem. Never done anything like this before but following your video i resolved the problem and its running great.
3 in 1 is a great oil. My dad always used it on about anything mechanical... we lived on a farm with machinery and equipment. I've used it on hair clippers.
Here in New England, we have been oscillating back and forth between 40 degree weather and 20 degree weather. We have only had one major snowstorm this winter, several months ago. Yesterday's storm produced about 3 in of snow here, and then it poured for hours and the snow became one in of slush filled with lead shot I swear, incredibly heavy. Followed by a little bit of freezing rain. When I go out this afternoon I expect I can Bobsled down my pitch driveway. Anyway, apparently, this is the new normal for Southern New England. We had so much rain this summer and fall that I thought I was living in Seattle! The lack of snow is not actually a good thing, it means that groundwater levels will likely drop and some of the people in the area could be having problems with their wells running dry next summer. My well pump is at 300 feet so I will probably be okay.
Usually the noise is caused by the belt scraping on the pulley in the 33.3 setting. If run that way too long rubber from the belt will grind off and build up. This is in turn caused by the motor mounts sagging due to age and years of the motor's weight on them. That is why you don't get the noise in the 45 position. The fix is to either shim up the mounts to restore height or to move the pulley up on the shaft so the belt no longer scrapes on it. The owner may have put the transport screw back in to try to silence it. I have had a ton of these of several makes do this over the years. The design was common to nearly all of the Japanese brands and the parts (pulley, platter, and bearing/spindle) seemed to be identical, probably from the same supplier. Back when you could get new mounts that was the preferred method of repair but that is no longer a possibility in most cases. Maybe the cat will get the bird and quiet will be restored...
@@12voltvids , it is ZERO here in Southern New England. Wind chills today are in the -10 to -25 region. In a couple of days we are forecast to go up to 40 degrees.
@@RuneTheFirst , I rarely see a set screw holding the pulley on to the motor of any Japanese turntable. It's usually glued with some kind of lacquer based glue, similar to that red or green lacquer that substitutes for Loctite on older Japanese equipment. Nitromethane and perhaps a little bit of heat will usually soften the glue. Don't use any open flames around the nitromethane! Goof-off might work as well, but that stuff has acetone and toluene and toluol and lord knows what else in it, it stinks to high heaven and I don't like to use it indoors. Nitromethane is our preferred solvent for this sort of thing, for instance if you want to remove the plastic insert from a knob with an outer metal shell.
@@goodun6081 Are you dealing with AC or DC motors? How old? I have run into many with setscrews over the years on AC motors. Granted these were from the 70s and very early 80s. Pioneer was the most common but others were similar back then.
Just worked on one of these. The arm is attached to the center shaft by a nut and an allen screw, but the bloody things are held in place by plastic. The torque of the nut broke the plastic (of course) and now the arm that activates the shut-off switch doesn't work. Stupid design. I just ended up epoxying the bloody things together and now it works.
I recently got an la21 , had the same issue , plate seized , however i didn't heat the center as you did , i saw this wasn't recommended because of the nylon gear underneath that could melt. Instead , i hold the spindle with a clamp , and turned the turntable anticlockwize , it just easily poped out. for the spindle mostly stuck in its housing , i did put oil in the screw hole that locks it in place , no force on the gear.
The blinking 12:00 on a VCR, transport screws, stickers and foils, TV's that are set to the super-bright in-store mode... They're all symptoms of how matter how simple we make technology, there are always idiots that don't understand and/or don't care.
Hey I wanted to ask you something I watched this whole video and it was pretty great. By the way. I've got a couple 80s turntables where the capstan or pulley isn't strong enough to pull the belt around a platter. the weight of the record or even the weight of the slip mat will slow the motor down to a halt. Is this a pulley or capstan issue or is it more like lubricating or loosening the spindle like you did in this video. Is there a way by the way to strengthen the motor or the electrical current driving the capstan/pulley?
@@12voltvids so the turntable I was working on was a Pioneer PL-2. The spindle was seized. I unscrewed the spindle and pulled it apart and cleaned it inside and out with rubbing alcohol and then I applied Blaster lubricant. And put it back together and screwed the spindle back down and voila the spindle spins. Thanks to your video I now know how to do this.
I have this same turntable. I can manually spin the turntable - but it does not turn on its own when the arm/needle is placed in position. Also the reject button does not work. Is this able to be fixed easy and not too expensive - or is it trashed and I just need to by a new turntable? Thanks for posting your video! Cathy
Happened to my neighbors HMV (RCA Victor) console. I twisted it to and fro while pulling up and it came off quite quickly, it wasn't totally frozen, but the motor couldn't move it.. The autochanger cam froze up too.
Not a plastic piece of crap. Mine still works great. The only thing it's ever needed was it's belt replaced. And that was billed a special plastic that kept the turntable from needing a grounding cable.
Sir how about removing the platter of the JL-A15 of JVC ? it is the same to the one on your video? i tried to remove the platter of my JL-A15 it does not come off... please help sir
Of cause it can be repaired, i havnt seen you fail too often with anything :-D. That's the first time i've ever seen a modern deck lock up, usually just the ancient stuff.
dan mackintosh, in comparison to some of the old wrecks i've repaired it is modern ish LOL :-D Yes it does look like a glue/earwax lol, but it goes like concreate and i end up using a gas torch to warm it up (all metal decks). Most of the mechanism is frozen on the real bad ones, just takes a bit of patients, and a big hammer... no no just joking :-D
Just seen 12volt's video on a Philips console unit with a BSR changer and that was pretty much like you say, cam & all seized solid on account of the grease going solid. Shame the Fidelity's tuner isn't as well put together as the changer, feels sooo cheap and even with everything routed right the dial cord still slips too easily.
@@danmackintosh6325, rub a wax crayon on the dial string. This might fix or minimize the slippage if the string is only a little bit loose. If it's really loose you will have to undo it on one end and shorten it slightly or even just tie an overhand knot in it just to make it slightly shorter. Better make a good diagram and take some pictures, or find a service manual that shows you the string routing before you attempt such a thing! It can be helpful to use blue or green painters tape, frog tape, to kind of pin the string into the various pulleys and mechanisms so it doesn't slip off easily, before you undo the string on one end. If you shorten the string then you may have to reposition the pulley on the tuning condenser, or move the dial pointer off to one side just a little bit in order to have reasonably accurate dial calibration.
Thanks for the in depth reply :) I think it's more a case of bad/very cheap design than the cord being too loose or tight (To give you an idea, there isn't even any dial illumination just a stereo indicator & the dial cord makes do with one less guide pulley than would be ideal), the wax idea did cross my mind though & might give it a shot when I go in there again to clean the pots when my spray arrives. If it doesn't improve it's no big loss as I wouldn't be using the tuner part as much as the changer, I have a much nicer tuner in an old Thorn-Ferguson Cassiever for if I decide to listen to the radio. Thanks again.
That looks similar to some of the newer 100-dollar range belt drive ones with the straight arm, spring counterweight, and at3600 cartridge, probably the same platter and belt, with a different motor. I believe mine (Audiotechnica at-lp60/ Sony ps-lx300usb style), uses a more usual dc motor. Very similar auto return mechanism.
i bought a second hand sony crt from 1984 a semi portable 18 inch it had the onscreen number on the screen i founf one original remote for the set on a worldwide search and turned it off.
thank you so much.got exact same problem with my jvc.wondering why no auto return.i notice mine also jammed.àppreciate your vid.im using oil for singer sewing machines.is that ok
You gave it a whirl. :) I have a metal oil can of 3 in 1. (Same size as yours) The blue heavy duty kind for electrical motors. Had it for decades. Almost empty.
Love all your videos. I have become very interested in repair by watching. Can you recommend a budget oscilloscope and variable transformer to buy please?
If you put the motor shaft in the wrong side of the motor field magnet it will make it turn in the wrong direction.I thought I saw you put the armature shaft in the opposite way you took it out.
I haven't had a turntable since I was a teenager in the 80's. I just got my hands on a couple of cheap receivers with turntables built into the top of them. Are the cartridges for the turntables interchangeable? I have some records I haven't heard in 30 years. Also 1 has a 8 track in it, while I was bringing it home I found a box with like 50 8-track tapes in it. I have it were friends and family look out for anything electronic that's headed for dump for me to practice repairing or scrap for parts. If I fix it I offer it back to them, if I can't fix it, it might have parts to repair future things given to me. BTW 3 in 1 oil I have only used and seen it used on electric small electric motors and gears , I e for what he uses it for. I would bet anyone complaining about him using it never held a can in their hands.
I see you're from Canada, I have a friend of mine that is originally from there that works on motorcycles, I don't remember from where in Canada though, him and his wife has a shop in Delaware that I get parts for my Harley Davidson from.
If the turntable runs slow, you've got the wrong belt, the belt is too small and too tight. Yes, that's correct! An old belt that loosens up with time actually makes the turntable run fast. I know it seems counterintuitive to most people, but that's the way it is. The thickness and width of a non original belt can also affect your speed, and with a synchronous motor you have no easy way to speed up or slow down the motor. I doubt your frequency of AC house current is that far off, although it's possible. Check the speed with a fluorescent lamp instead of your fancy self-contained oscillating light source. If the speed seems to look okay on the speed disc with a fluorescent lamp for a light source, then your AC house current is indeed off frequency. PS, did I hear some wow and flutter, fluttering of the notes, or is it the Indian influence music on the record? Try some piano music, or a test disk with sustained tones.
I picked up a Jl-a20 recently (generation before this one) that had the same problem, and ended up having to use quite a bit of WD-40 on the bearing to free it up.
i have the same oil maybe different label now since its different and clear container but its still motor oil that says its sae 20 or so. maybe its bit different who knows? but i used it on everything as well even my own quarts clocks when they get stupid (since mine are old) but i mainly use it for my vintage desk fans since it has no additives to hurt the bearings or the sort in them. so who cares what others say indeed i never had problems with it and some stuff never had to oil in years lmao.
@@manus4851 have no idea. You have to measure it. Thread dental floss around and tie tight. Cut and measure. Subtract 10% and you have your circumference. With is usually 1/4". I do not know any belt size for anything. I have to measure them. It's easier if you have the original. For turntable it is usually FBS or FBM xxx where xxx is the size in inches or mm. Even with a service manual it won't tell the size. It would give a part number which is useless because you need the size.
Anyone got a FINAL LT1 turntable that uses five lasers to locate the lands each side of the groove, two read the audio from the groove and and one sets the focus of the four lasers, what about a sound maker that fires off a blank every time he blows on his whistle might use a frequency detector might scare the kid off and make him more conscious where he blows his whistle.
Here is an idea. Someone come up with an record player that just takes a high resolution image of the disk and decodes the audio from the groove by just taking a picture of it. Go for high enough resolution and it could read the pits and lands from a cd, or dvd as well. Just load it and it optically reads the disk. Then we could print music out as QR codes and just scan them into our phones to play.
Nah, I know you put the armature in upside down lol that's why your wires didn't want to line up too ;) Again, blame the kid/bird/cat whatever the heck it was
Many thanks! I've owned this turntable since I was in high school, way back in 1977. It was time for a belt replacement and I could not get the platter to come off. Your heat trick made the difference.
I cannot thank you enough for this video. A friend gave me this turntable. It was sitting in his shed for years and it was all seized up, just like the one in the video. Thanks to you, I have managed to restore it and now it works like a charm. I would not have been able to do anything without your clear and detailed instructions.
Always educational, informative, and also entertaining to see you do what you do!
I am so grateful! Following your nice how-to, I was able to resurrect the 40 years old record player! Thanks a lot!
Really appreciate all your video's I've learnt so much from your guidance and I've managed to build my whole Hi Fi system from unwanted faulty units and indeed I use 3 in 1 oil on my JVC turntable and other moving small parts and it works incredibly well and never gums up.
The electric motor oil, not the household oil. Completely different.
I have a Kenwood variant of this, except the arm is the 80's straight arm unit with the offset ADC headshell. It has that same type of bearing and a very simple semi auto mechanism that simply pushes the arm back to the rest position so less intrusive than some mechanisms of this level of table. The plinth is definitely black plastic (molded no less. Everything is screwed into stanchions holding all the parts, however, mine is a DC motor with a frequency generated speed change. My parents originally bought it in 1985 and I've had it since 1999 and to this day, it still chooches along nicely and runs a Grado Prestige Green 1 cart and goes in to a nice external phono stage to a NAD 7240PE receiver, like the one you fixed. I need to clean the tape monitor switch in mine today.
For a budget table, it sounds quite good, in fact more than good but it does take a good cart and phono stage to get it sounding good with most of these.
If it's a DC motor, how can it have a "frequency generated speed change"? Changing from 33 to 45 RPM with a switch or button would normally be accomplished by changing the voltage to the motor , for a DC motor anyway. Are you talking about it perhaps having a Hall sensor inside the motor to help control the voltage and speed? Or that feeds speed information to a servo circuit?
@@goodun6081 According to the instruction manual for my table, it is indeed a quartz PLL coreless/slotless DC servo motor and it's got a circuit board to adjust the speed for 33.3 and 45rpm speeds individually, though a royal pain as the trim pots are on the board itself and requires you to take off the Masonite board that covers the bottom of the table.
Hi.
At a thrift store I found a JVC JL-A20 for $20. I put a new belt on it, but it just didn't turn fast enough. So I put it away for a year thinking, I'll just buy a new TT. But I decided to get on YT to see if I could trouble shoot it. As it turns out, the platter bearing was seized as well. It didn't take me long at all to take care of the issue as you explained.
In my case the motor wasn't making any noise. So I put it back together. Downloaded an app to test the speed. The numbers were as follows: 33.07/33.25.
Now I'm going to hook it up to my amp and see how it works. I had purchased from Amazon along with an Audio Technica cartridge/needle? I'll put up ;an update as soon as possible.
Thank you!
I know some idiots who tied their washing machine to the wall. They never read the manual where the transport screws were mentioned and each time the machine did a spin cycle it would start walking. They actually broke two washing machines until they figured out that those screws had to be taken out.
I used to work in retail selling washing machines (among other things). At least once a month some idiot came back with a busted washer. They ignored the sticker (that was taped over the latch) on the door saying WARNING in big, red letters. Then they opened the door and was greeted with a huge paper inside the drum, again with WARNING in big red letters. Then the screws themselves (in the back) had huge, red plugs on them and the power cord was affixed to them. Still, they managed to hook it up and start it with the transport screws in and somehow it was always our fault.
Edit: Another goodie... People buying vacuum cleaners and skipping the quite important step of putting a bag in it before use.
@@rogerw9840 Same with generators......
@@rogerw9840 What about cars that still have the blue plastic film covering the chrome painted parts after4-5 years?
@@sobolanul96 I agree that it's kinda silly, but at least it won't destroy your car if you decide to drive around with it still attached.
When I was younger, my parents bought a house that had been built in the 1950s. The previous owner had decided to install a washer and dryer in the garage. Running the electric for the dryer and providing the vent hose wasn't a big deal, nor was running hot and cold water lines to the garage from the kitchen. But there was no provision in the garage for a drain, and adding one would have required tearing up the concrete slab, so the previous owner apparently thought long and hard and came up with a 'solution'. He engineered some sort of Rube Goldberg adapter and used a GARDEN HOSE to connect the drain port of the washer. The garden hose ran up the wall, over the ceiling, down the kitchen wall, and got spliced into the kitchen sink drain. The washer and dryer was left behind when when the previous owner moved, so my parents never knew any of this. Until the washing machine quit working. Of course, the natural assumption was that the machine was just old, so they went out and bought a shiny new one. When they went to install it, that's when they discovered what the previous owner had done. The delivery/install guy simply said, 'Nope' and explained that the pump in modern washers, being made of plastic, would never last pumping water UP that far, and he was in fact surprised that the old washer had managed to last as long as it had. Best guess: that contrivance had 'worked' for well over a decade. A testament, I suppose, to the bulletproof nature of old appliances.
We ended up tearing the sink out of one of the bathrooms and installing the washer there. Even so, the new washer barely lasted four years. Cheap piece of crap.
Love this video and your clear explanation. Any counsel on a JVC L-A100 auto-return turntable that won't stop spinning unless it's unplugged?
thank you! i just picked up this unit from a thrift store for $20 and it had the same problem. Never done anything like this before but following your video i resolved the problem and its running great.
3 in 1 is a great oil. My dad always used it on about anything mechanical... we lived on a farm with machinery and equipment. I've used it on hair clippers.
Here in New England, we have been oscillating back and forth between 40 degree weather and 20 degree weather. We have only had one major snowstorm this winter, several months ago. Yesterday's storm produced about 3 in of snow here, and then it poured for hours and the snow became one in of slush filled with lead shot I swear, incredibly heavy. Followed by a little bit of freezing rain. When I go out this afternoon I expect I can Bobsled down my pitch driveway. Anyway, apparently, this is the new normal for Southern New England. We had so much rain this summer and fall that I thought I was living in Seattle! The lack of snow is not actually a good thing, it means that groundwater levels will likely drop and some of the people in the area could be having problems with their wells running dry next summer. My well pump is at 300 feet so I will probably be okay.
Usually the noise is caused by the belt scraping on the pulley in the 33.3 setting. If run that way too long rubber from the belt will grind off and build up. This is in turn caused by the motor mounts sagging due to age and years of the motor's weight on them. That is why you don't get the noise in the 45 position. The fix is to either shim up the mounts to restore height or to move the pulley up on the shaft so the belt no longer scrapes on it.
The owner may have put the transport screw back in to try to silence it.
I have had a ton of these of several makes do this over the years. The design was common to nearly all of the Japanese brands and the parts (pulley, platter, and bearing/spindle) seemed to be identical, probably from the same supplier. Back when you could get new mounts that was the preferred method of repair but that is no longer a possibility in most cases.
Maybe the cat will get the bird and quiet will be restored...
PS: The pulley is usually held on the motor shaft with a setscrew.
The bird will get the cat is more like it. That racket is a baby eagle. Its January but pretty warm. Birds don't know it is still winter.
@@12voltvids , it is ZERO here in Southern New England. Wind chills today are in the -10 to -25 region. In a couple of days we are forecast to go up to 40 degrees.
@@RuneTheFirst , I rarely see a set screw holding the pulley on to the motor of any Japanese turntable. It's usually glued with some kind of lacquer based glue, similar to that red or green lacquer that substitutes for Loctite on older Japanese equipment. Nitromethane and perhaps a little bit of heat will usually soften the glue. Don't use any open flames around the nitromethane! Goof-off might work as well, but that stuff has acetone and toluene and toluol and lord knows what else in it, it stinks to high heaven and I don't like to use it indoors. Nitromethane is our preferred solvent for this sort of thing, for instance if you want to remove the plastic insert from a knob with an outer metal shell.
@@goodun6081 Are you dealing with AC or DC motors? How old? I have run into many with setscrews over the years on AC motors. Granted these were from the 70s and very early 80s. Pioneer was the most common but others were similar back then.
THANK YOU! i was having tracking issues with my old turntable and was ready to take it in. You saved me some $$
Just worked on one of these. The arm is attached to the center shaft by a nut and an allen screw, but the bloody things are held in place by plastic. The torque of the nut broke the plastic (of course) and now the arm that activates the shut-off switch doesn't work. Stupid design. I just ended up epoxying the bloody things together and now it works.
Thanks for the info. I fixed my wife's turntable with your help. She's happy. I'm happy!
😁 yes that is generally the way it is right. Keep her happy and they you can be happy.
Another thumbs 👍, awesome repair , gotta love turntables.
Excellent video as usual. Thanks for posting.
Thanks man, I found the same model in my crawl space, it didn’t work but I tired some these things... now it works mint!
That motor alone weighs more than 2 whole crosley cruisers
Yes you dont need to take any 'stuff' looking at that spin together with those sounds! Nice variety of repairs!
I give the centre spindle a whack with the handle of a screwdriver when the platter doesn't want to come off - works every time.
I recently got an la21 , had the same issue , plate seized , however i didn't heat the center as you did , i saw this wasn't recommended because of the nylon gear underneath that could melt. Instead , i hold the spindle with a clamp , and turned the turntable anticlockwize , it just easily poped out. for the spindle mostly stuck in its housing , i did put oil in the screw hole that locks it in place , no force on the gear.
You have to know how much heat to use. If its too hot to touch its too hot 🙃
have you any videos on stripping down a Creek 4040 S2 Intergated amp as i would be very interested to watch & see if i have made any progress
Thanks for your video! I'm going to try to fix my JVC AL-F350 turntable. Has the same issue as yours with the stuck shaft/bearing assembly
The blinking 12:00 on a VCR, transport screws, stickers and foils, TV's that are set to the super-bright in-store mode... They're all symptoms of how matter how simple we make technology, there are always idiots that don't understand and/or don't care.
Hello, can you tell me what to do if the spindle starts spinning immediately when plugged in ?
Hey I wanted to ask you something I watched this whole video and it was pretty great. By the way. I've got a couple 80s turntables where the capstan or pulley isn't strong enough to pull the belt around a platter. the weight of the record or even the weight of the slip mat will slow the motor down to a halt. Is this a pulley or capstan issue or is it more like lubricating or loosening the spindle like you did in this video. Is there a way by the way to strengthen the motor or the electrical current driving the capstan/pulley?
Check the lubrication of bearings. I just overhauled a 1964 Garrard, and used about a half can of oil getting thing working.
@@12voltvids so the turntable I was working on was a Pioneer PL-2. The spindle was seized. I unscrewed the spindle and pulled it apart and cleaned it inside and out with rubbing alcohol and then I applied Blaster lubricant. And put it back together and screwed the spindle back down and voila the spindle spins. Thanks to your video I now know how to do this.
To remove the platter, a simple tap to the top of the shaft with a small hammer, while pulling up on the platter, usually does the trick. :)
I beat the crap out of it before putting heat on it. This one wouldn't budge.
A rubber or plastic deadblow type Hammer is preferable, of course!
I have this same turntable. I can manually spin the turntable - but it does not turn on its own when the arm/needle is placed in position. Also the reject button does not work. Is this able to be fixed easy and not too expensive - or is it trashed and I just need to by a new turntable? Thanks for posting your video! Cathy
I GOT my HEADPHONES on and I can hear that whistling nice turntable thou
Tap it with a plastic mallet or place a block of wood on top spindle while pushing down on it and pulling up platter simultaneously.
This one wouldn't budge. I was whacking it with a hammer and it didn't budge
Great video . That still better then the new record player you now.
Happened to my neighbors HMV (RCA Victor) console. I twisted it to and fro while pulling up and it came off quite quickly, it wasn't totally frozen, but the motor couldn't move it.. The autochanger cam froze up too.
Not a plastic piece of crap. Mine still works great. The only thing it's ever needed was it's belt replaced. And that was billed a special plastic that kept the turntable from needing a grounding cable.
Nice repair Dave, thanks for the video.
Nice video, really enjoyed it. Most people would toss it out. But now it is as good as new.👍
Sir how about removing the platter of the JL-A15 of JVC ? it is the same to the one on your video? i tried to remove the platter of my JL-A15 it does not come off... please help sir
Maybe a 2 arm bearing puller would help getting the platter off?
Of cause it can be repaired, i havnt seen you fail too often with anything :-D.
That's the first time i've ever seen a modern deck lock up, usually just the ancient stuff.
I don't know if a Fidelity UA3 with BSR changer from 1973 counts as modern, but the grease on mine was like a cross between glue and old ear wax...
dan mackintosh, in comparison to some of the old wrecks i've repaired it is modern ish LOL :-D
Yes it does look like a glue/earwax lol, but it goes like concreate and i end up using a gas torch to warm it up (all metal decks).
Most of the mechanism is frozen on the real bad ones, just takes a bit of patients, and a big hammer... no no just joking :-D
Just seen 12volt's video on a Philips console unit with a BSR changer and that was pretty much like you say, cam & all seized solid on account of the grease going solid. Shame the Fidelity's tuner isn't as well put together as the changer, feels sooo cheap and even with everything routed right the dial cord still slips too easily.
@@danmackintosh6325, rub a wax crayon on the dial string. This might fix or minimize the slippage if the string is only a little bit loose. If it's really loose you will have to undo it on one end and shorten it slightly or even just tie an overhand knot in it just to make it slightly shorter. Better make a good diagram and take some pictures, or find a service manual that shows you the string routing before you attempt such a thing! It can be helpful to use blue or green painters tape, frog tape, to kind of pin the string into the various pulleys and mechanisms so it doesn't slip off easily, before you undo the string on one end. If you shorten the string then you may have to reposition the pulley on the tuning condenser, or move the dial pointer off to one side just a little bit in order to have reasonably accurate dial calibration.
Thanks for the in depth reply :) I think it's more a case of bad/very cheap design than the cord being too loose or tight (To give you an idea, there isn't even any dial illumination just a stereo indicator & the dial cord makes do with one less guide pulley than would be ideal), the wax idea did cross my mind though & might give it a shot when I go in there again to clean the pots when my spray arrives. If it doesn't improve it's no big loss as I wouldn't be using the tuner part as much as the changer, I have a much nicer tuner in an old Thorn-Ferguson Cassiever for if I decide to listen to the radio. Thanks again.
That looks similar to some of the newer 100-dollar range belt drive ones with the straight arm, spring counterweight, and at3600 cartridge, probably the same platter and belt, with a different motor. I believe mine (Audiotechnica at-lp60/ Sony ps-lx300usb style), uses a more usual dc motor. Very similar auto return mechanism.
i bought a second hand sony crt from 1984 a semi portable 18 inch it had the onscreen number on the screen i founf one original remote for the set on a worldwide search and turned it off.
thank you so much.got exact same problem with my jvc.wondering why no auto return.i notice mine also jammed.àppreciate your vid.im using oil for singer sewing machines.is that ok
Why do you not use grease?
B Touw, only on sliding parts, never on motors and bearings or anything that rotates, a light oil is what you want there.
@@johnhpalmer6098 Thanks
Not for motors and bearings.
@@johnhpalmer6098 , at the audio repair shop I work for, we use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil, 10 W 30, for most generic lubricant applications.
Excellent!!! Thank you!!!👍
You gave it a whirl. :)
I have a metal oil can of 3 in 1. (Same size as yours) The blue heavy duty kind for electrical motors. Had it for decades. Almost empty.
love focus , what's the album tittle sounds tripy
28:31, don't put the bottom on yet! Flip it over and test it first! Chances are good you're going to have to go back in there for something!
Love all your videos. I have become very interested in repair by watching. Can you recommend a budget oscilloscope and variable transformer to buy please?
If you put the motor shaft in the wrong side of the motor field magnet it will make it turn in the wrong direction.I thought I saw you put the armature shaft in the opposite way you took it out.
Obviously not.
I haven't had a turntable since I was a teenager in the 80's. I just got my hands on a couple of cheap receivers with turntables built into the top of them. Are the cartridges for the turntables interchangeable? I have some records I haven't heard in 30 years. Also 1 has a 8 track in it, while I was bringing it home I found a box with like 50 8-track tapes in it. I have it were friends and family look out for anything electronic that's headed for dump for me to practice repairing or scrap for parts. If I fix it I offer it back to them, if I can't fix it, it might have parts to repair future things given to me. BTW 3 in 1 oil I have only used and seen it used on electric small electric motors and gears , I e for what he uses it for. I would bet anyone complaining about him using it never held a can in their hands.
I see you're from Canada, I have a friend of mine that is originally from there that works on motorcycles, I don't remember from where in Canada though, him and his wife has a shop in Delaware that I get parts for my Harley Davidson from.
If the turntable runs slow, you've got the wrong belt, the belt is too small and too tight. Yes, that's correct! An old belt that loosens up with time actually makes the turntable run fast. I know it seems counterintuitive to most people, but that's the way it is. The thickness and width of a non original belt can also affect your speed, and with a synchronous motor you have no easy way to speed up or slow down the motor. I doubt your frequency of AC house current is that far off, although it's possible. Check the speed with a fluorescent lamp instead of your fancy self-contained oscillating light source. If the speed seems to look okay on the speed disc with a fluorescent lamp for a light source, then your AC house current is indeed off frequency. PS, did I hear some wow and flutter, fluttering of the notes, or is it the Indian influence music on the record? Try some piano music, or a test disk with sustained tones.
I picked up a Jl-a20 recently (generation before this one) that had the same problem, and ended up having to use quite a bit of WD-40 on the bearing to free it up.
The cheap petroleum grease or oil ,is the problem ,I use synthic oil and grease ,super lube it also has teflon ,synthics do break down like that.
Hey were can I find the 3-1 20 weight oil at
Any hardware store should have it. It is made by the wd40 company.
coil of the motor was reversed ;-)
I did that with my Marantz 6110 after servicing the motor, I had a good laugh when the platter spun backwards.
great that you can now do these things with video so that you can check back for mirror images or with mobile phones.. really enjoy these videos..
Great video sir! I just gonna pick up one of these. Can you tell me please, do I need for this turntable a pre amplifier? Thanks in advance! :-)
You'll need a pre-amp or an amplifier with a phono input.
Good video as usual that deck is not a bad one
I found one, but it does not have headshell. Can anyone let me know what headshells are compatible with JVC LA11? :)
Thanks I have same problem with same turntable has long mystified me.
Aww... she's a tad bit slow. Just like me. ;)
That would have a pricey repair that turntable had lot of problem,I love how you fix everything .maybe you should water that cat ,
i have the same oil maybe different label now since its different and clear container but its still motor oil that says its sae 20 or so. maybe its bit different who knows? but i used it on everything as well even my own quarts clocks when they get stupid (since mine are old) but i mainly use it for my vintage desk fans since it has no additives to hurt the bearings or the sort in them. so who cares what others say indeed i never had problems with it and some stuff never had to oil in years lmao.
Specification of belt please
It's made out of rubber.
There that's a spec.
@@12voltvids diameter and width of belt?
@@manus4851 have no idea. You have to measure it. Thread dental floss around and tie tight. Cut and measure. Subtract 10% and you have your circumference. With is usually 1/4".
I do not know any belt size for anything. I have to measure them. It's easier if you have the original.
For turntable it is usually FBS or FBM xxx where xxx is the size in inches or mm. Even with a service manual it won't tell the size. It would give a part number which is useless because you need the size.
great story
Anyone got a FINAL LT1 turntable that uses five lasers to locate the lands each side of the groove, two read the audio from the groove and and one sets the focus of the four lasers, what about a sound maker that fires off a blank every time he blows on his whistle might use a frequency detector might scare the kid off and make him more conscious where he blows his whistle.
Here is an idea. Someone come up with an record player that just takes a high resolution image of the disk and decodes the audio from the groove by just taking a picture of it. Go for high enough resolution and it could read the pits and lands from a cd, or dvd as well. Just load it and it optically reads the disk. Then we could print music out as QR codes and just scan them into our phones to play.
Nah, I know you put the armature in upside down lol that's why your wires didn't want to line up too ;) Again, blame the kid/bird/cat whatever the heck it was
Thank
Like cleaning a crusty old capstan with years of funk on it......
motors no longer true which is why it ran backwards to begin with & vibrates a lot
It looks like white metal.
Its going backwards, you must be an old person, perhaps not.