Noticed a couple of things, The load belt is to be behind the rub rail unless your load comes to the edge of the rub rail and it is not possible to put it behind the rail that includes the winch side unless the trailer has broken rub rails at the winches. Secondly, some DOT's will not recognize the method in which you put the belt threw the winch the full length of the end of the belt must be through the winch, however you don't get many DOT checking this and probably 90 percent of driver do it that way. Third putting a twist in the belt will pervent it from vibrating going down the road and it is allowed and last the comment before mine is correct, the rub rail is not a recognized tie down divice on the trailer, most trailer manufacters will have a sticker on the front left corner stating all the welded tie down points and their load rating. Good vidio though we need more. Please note I am a Canadian driver and commenting on Canadian regulations.
There are many ways to throw and tighten straps. It also depends on the load and the trailer. In the trailers my company uses, ALL straps need to go THROUGH the rub-rail. That way it also protects the strap in case something grinds the rub-rail. I throw my straps the other way around, so it unrolls itself when it’s on top of a flat load. If it is a low load, I can just roll instead of throwing. I like to work smart, not hard.
Yeah, we showed one way, and the way that it works with our trailers. If we run it down through the rub rail, the way that the winch is oriented, will bend out the rub rail as we tighten it. Happened lots when we first got these trailers. We adapted . We plan on doing a few more of these videos with the alternatives but it is a tricky thing when trying to keep a video short enough for people to stay engaged through the whole thing.
Yes we are aware. Our resident thrower likes to do it this way becasue he "never misses tossing it over" lol. Anyway we will likely be doing another one with a different way to hold the roll.
@@EvansTrucking while I've got you, I fold my straps (about forearm length) instead of rolling. 1. When not in use, they stay folded as they were. The don't loosen and unroll. 2. When tossed, the fold expands to a large circle so it's easier to get unrolling velocity.
Pro tips from @@mikezunker . Thanks, I will work with our tosser to try and incorperate in the next one we do. We are filming a bunch of training videos and these kinds of tips help. Thanks.
For tall loads make a sling about 18” long with the outermost layer of the roll. Let the remainder of the roll drop to the bottom of the sling. Toss it over. Make sure that the roll is opposite the way shown so that it continues to roll across the top. I’m sure it’s hard to visualize. You’ll be holding the hook at the top of the loop with the roll sitting inside.
Had a guy throw one of these with metal on thrown end and just missed me. Might look at other side before throwing. Best thing is not hauling flatbed unless it pays a lot more.🦇
If you feed the strap that way you're not allowing the max amount of material to be used in case of an emergency. It's just going to rip out. And don't put it on the outside of the rub rail. If some moron nicks your trailer in the parking lot you just lost a strap and got damage to the trailer. It's called the bump rail for a reason. And the point of the winches is to put stress on them. No need to baby those. When they wear out, they wear out. Not to mention it's covering the DOT Tape which needs to be half and half all the way down.
@@eldarismailov655 Short strapping is when you put only a short amount of strap through the winch. DOT regulations state that the strap needs to go through the winch by at least 2 feet.
It is depending on the trailer, whether the rub rail is load bearing or not. Then from the FMCSA, "The new regulations require each tiedown to be attached and secured in a manner that prevents it from becoming loose, unfastening, opening or releasing while the vehicle is in transit. All tiedowns and other components of a cargo securement system used to secure loads on a trailer equipped with rub rails must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever practicable. Also, edge protection must be used whenever a tiedown would be subject to abrasion or cutting at the point where it touches an article of cargo." The edge protection must resist abrasion, cutting and crushing.
lol, don't tell him that...goes straight to his head. Thanks for the tips as well it is great that other sets of eyse can catch that stuff and pass on great tips. Try to incorperate it into a reshoot next summer.
Thank you, I’ve been hauling equipment on a landoll but I mostly used chains. I’m starting a new gig on Monday doing flat deck hauling steel beams I needed this.
Happy to help out. We plan on making lots more like this, tarping, moving axles, OD load signs, product variety securement, moving a 5th wheel, slide trailer axles, using chains and binders etc. Hoping to make lots of useful videos to help folks out at all levels.
Noticed a couple of things, The load belt is to be behind the rub rail unless your load comes to the edge of the rub rail and it is not possible to put it behind the rail that includes the winch side unless the trailer has broken rub rails at the winches. Secondly, some DOT's will not recognize the method in which you put the belt threw the winch the full length of the end of the belt must be through the winch, however you don't get many DOT checking this and probably 90 percent of driver do it that way. Third putting a twist in the belt will pervent it from vibrating going down the road and it is allowed and last the comment before mine is correct, the rub rail is not a recognized tie down divice on the trailer, most trailer manufacters will have a sticker on the front left corner stating all the welded tie down points and their load rating. Good vidio though we need more. Please note I am a Canadian driver and commenting on Canadian regulations.
Many thanks, we will likely be doing another one of these so the extra and corrected info is appreciated.
Using a folded end through the winch is called short-strapping and is prohibited in the USA.
There are many ways to throw and tighten straps. It also depends on the load and the trailer. In the trailers my company uses, ALL straps need to go THROUGH the rub-rail. That way it also protects the strap in case something grinds the rub-rail. I throw my straps the other way around, so it unrolls itself when it’s on top of a flat load. If it is a low load, I can just roll instead of throwing. I like to work smart, not hard.
Yeah, we showed one way, and the way that it works with our trailers. If we run it down through the rub rail, the way that the winch is oriented, will bend out the rub rail as we tighten it. Happened lots when we first got these trailers. We adapted . We plan on doing a few more of these videos with the alternatives but it is a tricky thing when trying to keep a video short enough for people to stay engaged through the whole thing.
@@EvansTruckingBTW : the hook on the end of the strap is called a J-Hook and not a D-Ring. D-Rings usually sit on a tarp to secure your bungees.
When throwing the strap, if you do the exact opposite roll direction it will keep rolling over the top instead of being a self braking roll.
Yes we are aware. Our resident thrower likes to do it this way becasue he "never misses tossing it over" lol. Anyway we will likely be doing another one with a different way to hold the roll.
@@EvansTrucking while I've got you, I fold my straps (about forearm length) instead of rolling.
1. When not in use, they stay folded as they were. The don't loosen and unroll.
2. When tossed, the fold expands to a large circle so it's easier to get unrolling velocity.
Pro tips from @@mikezunker . Thanks, I will work with our tosser to try and incorperate in the next one we do. We are filming a bunch of training videos and these kinds of tips help. Thanks.
Great techniques thanks for explaining.
For tall loads make a sling about 18” long with the outermost layer of the roll. Let the remainder of the roll drop to the bottom of the sling. Toss it over. Make sure that the roll is opposite the way shown so that it continues to roll across the top. I’m sure it’s hard to visualize. You’ll be holding the hook at the top of the loop with the roll sitting inside.
DOT violations 😂
Had a guy throw one of these with metal on thrown end and just missed me. Might look at other side before throwing. Best thing is not hauling flatbed unless it pays a lot more.🦇
Should never throw the metal end over it can damage the cargo if it slams into the other side. Think sheet metal type items.
If you feed the strap that way you're not allowing the max amount of material to be used in case of an emergency. It's just going to rip out. And don't put it on the outside of the rub rail. If some moron nicks your trailer in the parking lot you just lost a strap and got damage to the trailer. It's called the bump rail for a reason. And the point of the winches is to put stress on them. No need to baby those. When they wear out, they wear out. Not to mention it's covering the DOT Tape which needs to be half and half all the way down.
In the USA the way he secured that strap is called short-strapping and is prohibited.
@@davidc.w.2908short strap you mean he didn’t roll all straps right? I was wondering why they didn’t roll all straps
@@eldarismailov655 Short strapping is when you put only a short amount of strap through the winch. DOT regulations state that the strap needs to go through the winch by at least 2 feet.
outside rubrail is not to regulations
Great catch, we will take a look at that and adjust.
It is depending on the trailer, whether the rub rail is load bearing or not.
Then from the FMCSA, "The new regulations require each tiedown to be attached and secured in a manner that prevents it from becoming loose, unfastening, opening or releasing while the vehicle is in transit. All tiedowns and other components of a cargo securement system used to secure loads on a trailer equipped with rub rails must be located inboard of the rub rails whenever practicable. Also, edge protection must be used whenever a tiedown would be subject to abrasion or cutting at the point where it touches an article of cargo." The edge protection must resist abrasion, cutting and crushing.
It doesn't say inboard of the rubrail anymore.
@@donaldsipes1791of course if you get a trailer with good binders instead of this goofy 💩 it's a lot easier
Whatever suits the driver there's no right or wrong way
Roll the straps the other away, That way if you got a weak throw it will unroll its self clearly this guy got a good arm tho lol but for the viewers
lol, don't tell him that...goes straight to his head. Thanks for the tips as well it is great that other sets of eyse can catch that stuff and pass on great tips. Try to incorperate it into a reshoot next summer.
Wrong you wreck your rotator cup I know been there never listened to old guys sling shot it
Why do some of the least qualified guys end up making training videos on here. That was pathetic
Horrible.
Thank you, I’ve been hauling equipment on a landoll but I mostly used chains. I’m starting a new gig on Monday doing flat deck hauling steel beams I needed this.
Happy to help out. We plan on making lots more like this, tarping, moving axles, OD load signs, product variety securement, moving a 5th wheel, slide trailer axles, using chains and binders etc. Hoping to make lots of useful videos to help folks out at all levels.
Straps no good on steel.
@@waynekarjala2032 if you use corners you will be okay