Great video, however, after running the 5.3 dog engine for several years and now on my 2nd 3.0 Duramax. I’ll take the little engine that could, and does outperform that 5.3 in absolutely every way. It’s a solid little inline 6 that keeps putting a smile on my face every time I tow. Run a trailer behind that 5.3 and the little Duramax too and without question, that 5.3 is a dog that struggles. And doing the same comparison here while towing, without question you are absolutely money ahead with the little engine that does outperform any engine in any 1/2 ton truck. Ford, Chevy or Dodge. This little 3.0 is a top dog, fuel efficient beast of any 1/2 ton from any manufacturer in production. Bar none. GM hit the wholly grail on this engine/ transmission combination period.
What's the range on a full tank? That's the benchmark for me. I live in the Yukon Territory in Canada with many, many kms/miles between gas stations. I have a 6.2 XL Denali and can get the thick end of 1000kms on a full tank.
Diesel injectors don't last forever either, especially with the subpar factory filtration that the Big 3 keep purposely cheaping out on. GDI injectors at $250 a set is nothing compared to six diesel injectors costing 13-1500 bucks. I prefer to leave the daily driving to my 5.3 Chevy for the cheap maintenance, and the heavy pulling to my 6.7 Cummins.
Massachusetts gas is $1.00 to $1.20 less per gallon,I,ll stick with my 2.7 turbo gas I4 ,gas the lowest operating cost of any engine in the GM line up.
Comparing owning a 5.7 L I force gas engine to my 2022 L5P 6.6 L duramax at toyota dealership 160$ far oil change and tire rotation on the 5.7 gas at GM dealer it cost me 170$ far the 6.6 HD duramax oil and tire rotation so not a big difference at all . I also get close to 20 k miles on fuel filter love the diesel engine
Maybe this is a Canadian thing? I was always told you had to replace your fuel filter in the fall and in the spring to prevent fuel issues in the cold weather. Is that not a thing anymore?
Diesel formulas change for the winter to minimize gelling at low temperatures. Results in worse fuel economy but better than having a dead engine. So I can see why that recommendation came about.
I’ve had that quoted at the dealer for $1700 bucks. Not much more than a timing belt change. What’s 1700 after 150,000 miles on a $70k truck. This argument always cracks me up.
Couple of things ya forget to mention: transfer case + radiator fluid + differentials f/r + oil. Na v8 engine calls for synthetic oil every 5k (recommended). However if you want to have those turbos to be happy on that diesel engine, you will need oil change every 3k. So all in all, overall maintenance is basically the same once you factor all the other costs.
Lots of good information in this video . . . I'm thinking about buying a Yukon Denali in the next few months and I'm trying to decide which of the two engines to buy. I won't be using it for towing ( much ) and I have heard the same lifter problems in the V8 gas engines that you mentioned. The 3.0 would be fine for what I will use it for, but I'm concerned about how often the engine goes into "regen" mode ? I may have asked you already LOL - but, I drive mostly around town and I don't want to have to wait in a stores parking lot for the regen to stop before I can go in. I drove a new commercial vehicle about ten years ago, with a diesel engine and it did the regen at least once a day ( I traveled about 100 miles a day in it ) and it seemed to always be when I wanted to shut it off ( the mechanic at the shop said not to turn it off when it's doing it. Maybe they have changed in the past ten years. How often does yours go into regen mode and do you have to wait to turn it off like I have read others have said ? Keep making videos - I've learned a lot from the others.
@@Myksgarage THANKS . . obviously things have changed !!! It might do it a little more with me since I won't be driving much on the highway, but that still sounds like something I could live with. Keep making great videos, like you have been - very informative !!!
@@chadmark88 Regen on the 3L Duramax is mostly passive and you will rarely notice when it happens. On average it will happen about once every 400miles, but there's no indication it's happening unless you look at your instant fuel economy readout. If it can't fully completely a regen, it will tell you on the dash to continue driving to complete the regen - that's the message that Myk saw at one point in 12K miles he's put on this rig. It for sure has gone through other regens for him, but again they happen in the background with no indication to the driver.
@@StephenPaul1160 THANKS for clearing that up - the one I drove was in a new Freightliner School Bus that I drove for a year. Obviously, a different engine in that, it certainly wasn't "in the background" for me then LOL . . the engine was louder, smelled like burning rubber and smoked while it was doing it - I begged to have my old bus back the next year - they gave it back and I kept it until they had to sell it - then I QUIT after 35 years !!!
Yeah I can give me a little feedback I’m in the rideshare world I’m about to do my own limousine service had a GM mechanic she said the baby Max is the ticket I’ve had diesels. I had a hunk of junk 056 L found on road dead we all know that story, but yeah driving around LA Orange County Southern California I think this little beast is perfect compared to the 62 or the 53 I’ve driven big commercial trucks right now the game is played but personally for what I’m gonna do. It’s a workhorse and that’s what I need. I don’t need it in the shop, I need it racing around the track can’t make money on a three legged horse
@@Myksgarage Thanks for the reply, any plans to do so in the future? Looking to buy this model within the year and that is an upgrade that I would like to make.
Don't buy a diesel unless you often tow heavy loads. Initial cost is more, fuel is more, maintenance is more, repairs are more, and you'll never make your money back in the fuel savings.
Both engines are now 200k. Also it’s for an inspection not replacing it. Of course if they are already in there you might as well change it. Also I was told that if it breaks you will get an indication before you damage engine (mine is the LM2). GM is still testing belts and it is still exceeding what they thought so they moved it from 150k to 200k.
It's a 200K mile service interval. If it had a manual transmission, you'd likely be replacing the clutch at a similar interval, which also requires transmission removal.
If your old vehicle is running don't trade or buy new vehicles because you can't get parts to repair them with, my daughter hasn't driven her 2023 jeep grand Cherokee since November of 2023 but still has to make monthly payments
Dropping the tranny to replace a belt -whoever designed that should be fired !! Also, the comment about you needing tranny work anyway at 150k+ miles so you replace the belt then - yes this proves GMC is garbage with transmissions failing early.
Not the world’s biggest deal, plenty of time to put the money aside to fix it. Maybe someone can come up with a DIY guide on how to remove the transmission then a person can fix it themselves. People have been replacing clutches for years, how hard could it be?
I got a Yukon duramax for one reason, range. I didn’t consider cost of fuel or cost of maintenance when deciding between gas and diesel. Regularly get over 30 mpg. Hate stopping to fill up, love this little 3.0L.
Great video, however, after running the 5.3 dog engine for several years and now on my 2nd 3.0 Duramax. I’ll take the little engine that could, and does outperform that 5.3 in absolutely every way. It’s a solid little inline 6 that keeps putting a smile on my face every time I tow. Run a trailer behind that 5.3 and the little Duramax too and without question, that 5.3 is a dog that struggles. And doing the same comparison here while towing, without question you are absolutely money ahead with the little engine that does outperform any engine in any 1/2 ton truck. Ford, Chevy or Dodge. This little 3.0 is a top dog, fuel efficient beast of any 1/2 ton from any manufacturer in production. Bar none. GM hit the wholly grail on this engine/ transmission combination period.
Thanks for sharing your experience
@@Myksgarage question what about DPF filter ? Need to clean also ? I hear change that filter is about 2 thousand , is true ?
Any issues with your 3.0 so far ?
Why are you on your 2nd 3.0?
What's the range on a full tank? That's the benchmark for me. I live in the Yukon Territory in Canada with many, many kms/miles between gas stations. I have a 6.2 XL Denali and can get the thick end of 1000kms on a full tank.
3.0 Duramax has factory 100k powertrain warranty vs 60k on the gas. Gas 5.3 and 6.2 also needs DFI injectors every 100k.
Good point!
Diesel injectors don't last forever either, especially with the subpar factory filtration that the Big 3 keep purposely cheaping out on. GDI injectors at $250 a set is nothing compared to six diesel injectors costing 13-1500 bucks. I prefer to leave the daily driving to my 5.3 Chevy for the cheap maintenance, and the heavy pulling to my 6.7 Cummins.
How much for DFI Injectors ?
Thank you, great information and presentation. Liked and subscribed
Awesome, thanks!
Diesel is same price where I live 4.25 87 oct , 4.25 diesel , sometimes 20 cent cheaper u can find 4.05 or 3.99
Yeah it's close in my area now as well, makes the diesel engine even a better deal
Massachusetts gas is $1.00 to $1.20 less per gallon,I,ll stick with my 2.7 turbo gas I4 ,gas the lowest operating cost of any engine in the GM line up.
No advantage to having an expensive Diesel in a half ton when the 2.7 can do same job for less money.
Comparing owning a 5.7 L I force gas engine to my 2022 L5P 6.6 L duramax at toyota dealership 160$ far oil change and tire rotation on the 5.7 gas at GM dealer it cost me 170$ far the 6.6 HD duramax oil and tire rotation so not a big difference at all . I also get close to 20 k miles on fuel filter love the diesel engine
Good comparison, thanks for watching
Maybe this is a Canadian thing? I was always told you had to replace your fuel filter in the fall and in the spring to prevent fuel issues in the cold weather. Is that not a thing anymore?
Good question, I'm not sure
Diesel formulas change for the winter to minimize gelling at low temperatures. Results in worse fuel economy but better than having a dead engine. So I can see why that recommendation came about.
what is the trade value of the 3.0 when the truck is due for an oil pump belt change that cost upwards of 3 grand ?
Well given that it's probably worth nothing come trade in time
I’ve had that quoted at the dealer for $1700 bucks. Not much more than a timing belt change. What’s 1700 after 150,000 miles on a $70k truck. This argument always cracks me up.
A rubber band for a critical component. Seems like planned obsolescence to me.
The replacement is at 160,000 miles or 15 years.. your truck will be basically worthless at that point anyway.. this is a stupid argument…
Couple of things ya forget to mention: transfer case + radiator fluid + differentials f/r + oil.
Na v8 engine calls for synthetic oil every 5k (recommended). However if you want to have those turbos to be happy on that diesel engine, you will need oil change every 3k. So all in all, overall maintenance is basically the same once you factor all the other costs.
That's a good point
How often do you need to fill the DEF?
It uses about 5 gallons every 5,000 miles.
Lots of good information in this video . . . I'm thinking about buying a Yukon Denali in the next few months and I'm trying to decide which of the two engines to buy. I won't be using it for towing ( much ) and I have heard the same lifter problems in the V8 gas engines that you mentioned. The 3.0 would be fine for what I will use it for, but I'm concerned about how often the engine goes into "regen" mode ? I may have asked you already LOL - but, I drive mostly around town and I don't want to have to wait in a stores parking lot for the regen to stop before I can go in. I drove a new commercial vehicle about ten years ago, with a diesel engine and it did the regen at least once a day ( I traveled about 100 miles a day in it ) and it seemed to always be when I wanted to shut it off ( the mechanic at the shop said not to turn it off when it's doing it. Maybe they have changed in the past ten years. How often does yours go into regen mode and do you have to wait to turn it off like I have read others have said ? Keep making videos - I've learned a lot from the others.
Mines gone into regen mode once in 12,500 miles and it only took a couple of miles on the highway before it went away
@@Myksgarage THANKS . . obviously things have changed !!! It might do it a little more with me since I won't be driving much on the highway, but that still sounds like something I could live with. Keep making great videos, like you have been - very informative !!!
@@chadmark88 Regen on the 3L Duramax is mostly passive and you will rarely notice when it happens. On average it will happen about once every 400miles, but there's no indication it's happening unless you look at your instant fuel economy readout. If it can't fully completely a regen, it will tell you on the dash to continue driving to complete the regen - that's the message that Myk saw at one point in 12K miles he's put on this rig. It for sure has gone through other regens for him, but again they happen in the background with no indication to the driver.
@@StephenPaul1160 THANKS for clearing that up - the one I drove was in a new Freightliner School Bus that I drove for a year. Obviously, a different engine in that, it certainly wasn't "in the background" for me then LOL . . the engine was louder, smelled like burning rubber and smoked while it was doing it - I begged to have my old bus back the next year - they gave it back and I kept it until they had to sell it - then I QUIT after 35 years !!!
I’m also considering did you find if it had the new LZ0 motor ? And I think the pump thing is 200k inspection now not 100 k service. Huge improvement.
You forgot to mention the cost of DEF fluid for the diesel.
I calculated the def cost in my fuel cost comparison video:
ua-cam.com/video/VRL9LqQywDQ/v-deo.html
At my dealership, it $99 for the oil change service. Not Bad
Yeah that's not bad, considering the oil is higher priced
When does the 3.0 LZO come out in the suburban??
I've heard for model year 2024
@@Myksgarage2025*
Yeah I can give me a little feedback I’m in the rideshare world I’m about to do my own limousine service had a GM mechanic she said the baby Max is the ticket I’ve had diesels. I had a hunk of junk 056 L found on road dead we all know that story, but yeah driving around LA Orange County Southern California I think this little beast is perfect compared to the 62 or the 53 I’ve driven big commercial trucks right now the game is played but personally for what I’m gonna do. It’s a workhorse and that’s what I need. I don’t need it in the shop, I need it racing around the track can’t make money on a three legged horse
I think it would work great for you
Did you delete the ERG?
No it's completely stock
@@Myksgarage Thanks for the reply, any plans to do so in the future? Looking to buy this model within the year and that is an upgrade that I would like to make.
The gas v8 does not have an external fuel filter, nothing to change.
Interesting
Don't buy a diesel unless you often tow heavy loads.
Initial cost is more, fuel is more, maintenance is more, repairs are more, and you'll never make your money back in the fuel savings.
Those are valid points
Diesels don’t have the lifter problem.
I guess the days of $.99 quarts of oil at 7/11 are gone 😂
For now! 😀
Diesel for sure sounds better more potential towing hi miles
Yeah I agree
I thought the belt change interval was changed to 200,000 miles?
I thought I heard that as well, I'll have to see if it applies to my engine the LM2 or the new version LZ0 which just came out
Both engines are now 200k. Also it’s for an inspection not replacing it. Of course if they are already in there you might as well change it. Also I was told that if it breaks you will get an indication before you damage engine (mine is the LM2). GM is still testing belts and it is still exceeding what they thought so they moved it from 150k to 200k.
Pulling a trans to change a belt? Engineers are rediculous.
Yeah it does suck
It's a 200K mile service interval. If it had a manual transmission, you'd likely be replacing the clutch at a similar interval, which also requires transmission removal.
Non issue. You won't keep it for 200k miles anyway
@@StephenPaul1160 Is it stated in the service manual or through actual cases?
It's because they don't have to work on what they design.
man i wish my oil change cost like 60 dollars each time 🤣
What's your cost? What vehicle?
If your old vehicle is running don't trade or buy new vehicles because you can't get parts to repair them with, my daughter hasn't driven her 2023 jeep grand Cherokee since November of 2023 but still has to make monthly payments
That sucks
Dropping the tranny to replace a belt -whoever designed that should be fired !! Also, the comment about you needing tranny work anyway at 150k+ miles so you replace the belt then - yes this proves GMC is garbage with transmissions failing early.
Yes
It's 200k. Non issue
Not the world’s biggest deal, plenty of time to put the money aside to fix it. Maybe someone can come up with a DIY guide on how to remove the transmission then a person can fix it themselves. People have been replacing clutches for years, how hard could it be?
I'm going gas. Performance specs are superior for the 5.3 based on what I'm seeing
I got a Yukon duramax for one reason, range. I didn’t consider cost of fuel or cost of maintenance when deciding between gas and diesel. Regularly get over 30 mpg. Hate stopping to fill up, love this little 3.0L.
Time to take it to Banks😮
I think I'm going to leave it stock until it's out of warranty