Great video Brent. Could you do some quick videos on the most basic aspects of your multipitch climbing, especially where it differs from official, AMGA-approved methods? eg, basic two-bolt anchor, gear anchor, rappelling, belaying the second, tr soloing, simul climbing, rappelling, etc. Many videos of these things exist of course, but it's rare to get a look at a top climber's systems, especially when the priority is efficiency. Thank you.
At first glance I thought your edelrid switch was threaded onto your climbing rope so you were treating it as a fancy clove hitch sort of thing. Then it zoomed out and I saw that it’s a lanyard as normal
Ha, I could see that. A misleading crop! I did modify mine because I like the tie in method over the sewn hitch point. A basic clove is my go to for regular multipitching, though.
You can eliminate the need for the second progress capture pulley by using a garda hitch instead this can be accomplished by using a alpine draw with two similar type carabiners.I find that prerigging the first progress capture, then clipping the alpine draw to the locker keeps things compact and organized.
:) I usually then re-direct it through a carabiner on the anchor to make it truly frustration free hauling with my foot. My go to is to Camp Nano's usually, but I am sure other carabiners would work. @@brentbclimbs
You mention fix+follow at the end - something I've always wondered: does the follower pull the rope up onto the belay stance as the leader gets ready to set off, or does the follower leave the tail hanging down the prior pitch and feed it gradually up? If the rope ends up sitting on the belay ledge, how do you prevent snags when pulling up at the end of the pitch?
I'm not experienced with fix+follow, but I've been studying it for a while, and my recollection is that (for maximum efficiency) the follower lets the tail dangle and feeds it up as they belay. To make it easier to pull up and collect the dangling rope, the follower takes their motion capture pulley from their TR solo setup, rigs it to the anchor, and feeds the break strand below their belay device through it. That way, they belay as normal with a tiny portion of break-strand rope right next to them, and occasionally tug more break-strand through the motion capture pulley.
Quick question for when the rope is fixed and the follower starts TR soloing- Do they close the system with a knot at the bottom of the rope or leave it open to avoid any snags when later pulling the rope up for the leader on the next pitch? Really appreciate this video plus the safe simul blog!!
Thanks for sharing!! Very curious to hear what you think about the edelrid adjust tether, havent seen any feedback on them and are surprisingly hard to find in person to mess around with!
I've been liking it! You can lower out under full weight, which is helpful for aiding/jugging/rappelling. The primary downside is that it is a bit stiff to extend, but most full strength PAS systems are as well. I did modify mine to be a figure 8 tie in instead of the sewn hitch system, but that is just personal preference for lower bulk
Yooo this is absolutely amazing and I love the efficiency of the system using the caribiners. What’s the thinnest tag line you would use? I’m thinking 4mm accessory cord would work with progress captures?
Hard to imagine anything that's lighter than the Petzl Pur would last more than a few pitches. Don't go smaller to get lighter, just go dyneema with the Pur.
The Aramid shealth lines down to 5mm (Beal) or 6mm (Edelrid) have been super durable for me! I even have a 5mm x 40m line that is a go to for any route that can be rappelled with the main 70m lead line. It is unnoticeable trailing behind you. I do know the Spoc bites down to 2.5mm cord, at least, though the teeth may start to do damage under load.
That comes down to personal preference, I think.. I find it feels less bulky and more distributed clipping the tag and haul items on opposite harness sides. But prerigging may save a bit of time!
![Sending 5.13c without a Belayer [How I Climb Alone]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oH1Xs0gOpOk/mqdefault.jpg)
Quick systems and tactics tips like this are really useful. Please keep them coming!
Very clean system. Clear explanations. Great job. 👍👍
Man, this was stellar! Absolutely love all the work you put into developing clean and efficient systems!
Really excellent video! I would love to see more "demystifying advanced multipitch tactics" videos
Thanks for this!
Very useful man, thanks for putting it together! Would love to see more!
Hey Brent! Love the videos keep em coming. There's always something useful for the weekender like me.
incredibly well done, concise, instructional video, that addresses the critical questions. definitely subscribing!
Love this! Thank you for quality content
Great video Brent. Could you do some quick videos on the most basic aspects of your multipitch climbing, especially where it differs from official, AMGA-approved methods? eg, basic two-bolt anchor, gear anchor, rappelling, belaying the second, tr soloing, simul climbing, rappelling, etc. Many videos of these things exist of course, but it's rare to get a look at a top climber's systems, especially when the priority is efficiency. Thank you.
Good ideas.. I'll work on a few of these. I've been wanting to do a video version of my Safe Simuling blog post for a while!
Yeah definitely make more of these.
This is a baller method. Especially when combined with the fix and microtrax climbing style like you mentioned.
Great stuff Brent! Keep 'em coming!
At first glance I thought your edelrid switch was threaded onto your climbing rope so you were treating it as a fancy clove hitch sort of thing. Then it zoomed out and I saw that it’s a lanyard as normal
Ha, I could see that. A misleading crop! I did modify mine because I like the tie in method over the sewn hitch point. A basic clove is my go to for regular multipitching, though.
You can eliminate the need for the second progress capture pulley by using a garda hitch instead this can be accomplished by using a alpine draw with two similar type carabiners.I find that prerigging the first progress capture, then clipping the alpine draw to the locker keeps things compact and organized.
I'll have to look up the garda hitch.. I don't know that one.. thanks for sharing!
:) I usually then re-direct it through a carabiner on the anchor to make it truly frustration free hauling with my foot. My go to is to Camp Nano's usually, but I am sure other carabiners would work.
@@brentbclimbs
That was sick! Thank you so much!!! :)
Looking forward to other videos !
Great video! I might try out my foot ascender that i use for tree climbing to replace the second pully.
Waiting for more!
Very useful for wall gumbies like me :)
Haha, I'm pretty sure you've done some big stuff yourself! The remote walls on the east side of Canada look way cool
great system
You mention fix+follow at the end - something I've always wondered: does the follower pull the rope up onto the belay stance as the leader gets ready to set off, or does the follower leave the tail hanging down the prior pitch and feed it gradually up? If the rope ends up sitting on the belay ledge, how do you prevent snags when pulling up at the end of the pitch?
I'm not experienced with fix+follow, but I've been studying it for a while, and my recollection is that (for maximum efficiency) the follower lets the tail dangle and feeds it up as they belay. To make it easier to pull up and collect the dangling rope, the follower takes their motion capture pulley from their TR solo setup, rigs it to the anchor, and feeds the break strand below their belay device through it. That way, they belay as normal with a tiny portion of break-strand rope right next to them, and occasionally tug more break-strand through the motion capture pulley.
Quick question for when the rope is fixed and the follower starts TR soloing- Do they close the system with a knot at the bottom of the rope or leave it open to avoid any snags when later pulling the rope up for the leader on the next pitch?
Really appreciate this video plus the safe simul blog!!
I personally use two toothed-pulley type PCP devices for tr soloing and don't add any blocker knots below
Thanks for sharing!! Very curious to hear what you think about the edelrid adjust tether, havent seen any feedback on them and are surprisingly hard to find in person to mess around with!
I've been liking it! You can lower out under full weight, which is helpful for aiding/jugging/rappelling. The primary downside is that it is a bit stiff to extend, but most full strength PAS systems are as well. I did modify mine to be a figure 8 tie in instead of the sewn hitch system, but that is just personal preference for lower bulk
Yooo this is absolutely amazing and I love the efficiency of the system using the caribiners. What’s the thinnest tag line you would use? I’m thinking 4mm accessory cord would work with progress captures?
Hard to imagine anything that's lighter than the Petzl Pur would last more than a few pitches. Don't go smaller to get lighter, just go dyneema with the Pur.
The Aramid shealth lines down to 5mm (Beal) or 6mm (Edelrid) have been super durable for me! I even have a 5mm x 40m line that is a go to for any route that can be rappelled with the main 70m lead line. It is unnoticeable trailing behind you.
I do know the Spoc bites down to 2.5mm cord, at least, though the teeth may start to do damage under load.
nice. pre rig maybe?
That comes down to personal preference, I think.. I find it feels less bulky and more distributed clipping the tag and haul items on opposite harness sides. But prerigging may save a bit of time!