Fabulous work Matthew! I’m always looking forward to seeing what you’ve got on the workbench next. At what point do you know when to stop hammering the brass when harding it? Keep the content coming.
Hi Darryl Thanks for your kind feedback. When you begin hammering the brass the hammer kind of sinks in like hitting a piece of plasticine. After a while the hammer bounces and the tone changes. Bit of experience I suppose. On the edge of the material you can also see it gets compressed. Obvs if you hammer it too much it cracks and you have to start again. CZ120 also responds to further work hardening... just get a piece of scrap brass cz120 and experiment. Cast brass is really unpredictable. M
Just found your channel, thanks for an interesting video, as a fellow Myford owner I couldn't help but notice you using the back gear to lock the spindle when fitting the faceplate. I trust you don't do that to remove the chuck as that's an easy way to loose teeth on the geartrain.
When editing the video I wondered whether anyone would pick up on that! Well spotted. You are right; not best practice for sure. When I next make a lathe based vid I will mention it. Thanks again for your feedback. Matthew
I was thinking that you could use a short length of the same belt, mounted on a matching *inner radius* to your dividing wheel, to get several 'cogs' in engagement, for a 'stiffer' lock position...?
That's a good point, there was a little bit of vagueness to the indexing for sure. The improvement you suggest would be useful if you were cutting something like an escape wheel that needed a bit more stability. M
Hi Matthew thanks for a really helpful video. I have three questions. What type of motor are you using to drive the cutting spindle and how is it mounted to the lathe bed? I presume the arbor on which the wheel blank is mounted is retained by a locking drawbar? What method are you using to obtain the correct depth of the cut before you commence the cutting of all of the teeth?
Hi Ian. It is a washing machine motor I think? My landlord is a heating engineer and he threw it together for me. I will send you some snaps of it in situ! Yes the arbor/mandril is held in place by a draw-bar. In the shot of the dividing plate you can see the handle I made to tighten the draw-bar. I set the depth of cut by slowly moving the cutter down, locking it between cuts and waiting for the blue land to almost disappear. Ideally you stop just before the line goes altogether but somewhere in that region. With Thornton cutters it is in theory possible to lower the cutter so it just touches the wheel blank then lower it by the specified amount. If it were on a 102 I could do that but on the Myford vertical slide it is just easier to do it slowly over a dozen successive cuts. Hope this helps and hope you are well. M
Thank you Matthew for your excellent restoration repairs thoroughly enjoyed your presentation .
As an amateur I consider this to be a master level repair. Your techniques were all very enjoyable to watch. Thank you!
Thank you for your kind feedback! Appreciated.
Another professional job. That is why you are one of my group experts. I wished that I could study side by side with you. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Mark for your kind feedback. Hope you are doing well. M
Nice bit of work, good overview of the module info...
@@lohikarhu734 thank you, appreciated. M
Very nice!,... and good to see you again!...
Thank you!!!
Really fascinating video. I never fully understood gear cutting before and how it was set up on a lathe, so this was most interesting to watch.
@@rooftoppete thank you for kind feedback, glad it was of use. Appreciated.
Thank you Matthew. Once again a very educational video.
Thanks Franklin! M
Great as always and informative! Thanks
@@edwardmanukyan454 Thank you!
Excellent video, as always.
@@brianwarburton4482 thanks Brian.
@@brianwarburton4482 thanks Brian.
Very nice work. excellent skills!!!
@@clc7800 Thank you. Appreciated. M
Excellent work Matthew. Just wish I had the machinery to cut wheels/teeth.
Thank you for your feedback! Yes, always a frustration when limits of available tools etc limit your work. M
beautiful work, thks
@@yvesrochet3288 Thank you!
Thankyou great vid
Fabulous work Matthew! I’m always looking forward to seeing what you’ve got on the workbench next. At what point do you know when to stop hammering the brass when harding it? Keep the content coming.
Hi Darryl Thanks for your kind feedback. When you begin hammering the brass the hammer kind of sinks in like hitting a piece of plasticine. After a while the hammer bounces and the tone changes. Bit of experience I suppose. On the edge of the material you can also see it gets compressed. Obvs if you hammer it too much it cracks and you have to start again. CZ120 also responds to further work hardening... just get a piece of scrap brass cz120 and experiment. Cast brass is really unpredictable. M
Well done Matthew Something I have done on a torsion spring barrel but only 3 teeth and filed by hand.
Thanks Dell. Hope you are well. M
@@howtorepairpendulumclocks yes keeping well , enjoying retirement all well your end.
Just found your channel, thanks for an interesting video, as a fellow Myford owner I couldn't help but notice you using the back gear to lock the spindle when fitting the faceplate. I trust you don't do that to remove the chuck as that's an easy way to loose teeth on the geartrain.
When editing the video I wondered whether anyone would pick up on that! Well spotted. You are right; not best practice for sure. When I next make a lathe based vid I will mention it. Thanks again for your feedback. Matthew
I was thinking that you could use a short length of the same belt, mounted on a matching *inner radius* to your dividing wheel, to get several 'cogs' in engagement, for a 'stiffer' lock position...?
That's a good point, there was a little bit of vagueness to the indexing for sure. The improvement you suggest would be useful if you were cutting something like an escape wheel that needed a bit more stability. M
Thank you.
You are welcome! M
Hi Matthew thanks for a really helpful video. I have three questions. What type of motor are you using to drive the cutting spindle and how is it mounted to the lathe bed? I presume the arbor on which the wheel blank is mounted is retained by a locking drawbar? What method are you using to obtain the correct depth of the cut before you commence the cutting of all of the teeth?
Hi Ian. It is a washing machine motor I think? My landlord is a heating engineer and he threw it together for me. I will send you some snaps of it in situ! Yes the arbor/mandril is held in place by a draw-bar. In the shot of the dividing plate you can see the handle I made to tighten the draw-bar. I set the depth of cut by slowly moving the cutter down, locking it between cuts and waiting for the blue land to almost disappear. Ideally you stop just before the line goes altogether but somewhere in that region. With Thornton cutters it is in theory possible to lower the cutter so it just touches the wheel blank then lower it by the specified amount. If it were on a 102 I could do that but on the Myford vertical slide it is just easier to do it slowly over a dozen successive cuts. Hope this helps and hope you are well. M
Thank you Matthew ; can you suggest a source for cast brass? T
Hi Tim. This supplier is excellent... www.brasscastings.co.uk/12-58-diam-soft-yellow-brass-rod-suitable-for-clock-restoration
Good point, I put it in the description now M
Thanks gents !