Love this design. I am a technical mentor at a local school STEM High School Invention Center. I presented this design to the school Board an receive approval to teach and advance class on building a CNC for the center for use. Thanks for the detail design to reference.
Great concept, "lowrider" CNC . My very first CNC machine I built back in the late 1980's early 1990's was also a lowrider, almost like a plotter, vinyl cutter on the Z axis function (Pen UP , Pen Down). At that time, I needed to cut a lot of flat plates from plywood, plastic and thin aluminum, so height was not that big of a deal and thus I designed my machine to run on parallel rails using high quality drawer slides spaced 4" appart for the x and Y axis, using acme screws, home made delrin nuts and steppers from surplus machinery. I mounted this machine mechanics to a 2" thick particle board formica covered 2x2 ft night stand table, it was heavy solid and pretty darn flat and had great squareness so assembly was rather fast. All CNC file work was saved as plt file, (plotter file extension) and I was running a DIY 4 axis controller board powered by an old computer power supply. Back in the day there were no kits available and one had to piece everything together with a lot of elbow grease, search/find and creativity, but this first machine worked very well for the making flat pattern work. I made a similar machine 5 years ago tired of not finding a suitable inexpensive machine that would cut, ultra fast, fabrics. Lasers are great for this and running on belts it is a must for speed. My fabric cutting lowrider machine however runs on steel U-Channel extrusions for both the rails and the table base, making it extremely rigid, and probably overkill for laser cut fabrics, but the U Shapes on the extrusions also allowed me to hide the belts inside for a super clean setup. This machine will also cut wood and aluminum equipped with a high speed router with a good degree of precision. A machine that uses a regular table, or work surface, as a base is a bit tricky, since most tables are not designed for squareness precision bases but rather for surface functionality. I also have made my own 3D printed rails and no matter how strong you make a plastic 3D printed plastic rail, it does not match the rigidity and precision of a metal one, and although properly designed 3D printed rails work great with high precision skate bearings, just do not plan on cutting metal parts with precision and speed, for this you really need a rail system and structure with high precision and mass, no 3D printed plastic rail block or wood table mounted mechanics is going to do that. One of my first bought CNC machines was an early retrofitted Sherline Mill (not steel but still, solid aluminum machine) a great little machine which I modified the screws and nuts to provide greater precision, and impressively I cut a lot of aluminum small Injection molds including some steel dies, for the first products I was producing when I establish my company. Back in these times , desktop 3D printers to the level they are now, were still a dream. It is interesting to see technology evolve, especially when you have been watching it from the very early stages.
Thank you for all of your hard work on this project. I am building the MPCNC and made the appropriate changes in the Marlin config that you provided to run dual x and dual y steppers using the SKR v1.3. It worked the first time! Now all I need is a spindle motor and I will be in business.
You are the best and glad to see you contribuiting to open source projects to make getting into CNC easier, better control boards, and better use with end stops everywhere, and touch screen control!
I love the customization of the touch screen... great project and I would love to see the Ryobi trim router in action... I love your channel.. thank you for all your awesome work and sharing it!!!
@@TeachingTech Thanks, that is a great thing to hear. It took a lot of time and countless people like you willing to give it a try and giving constructive criticism. One heck of a community behind me making me look good.
A big thanks to you Ryan also. This is such a great way for people in the 3d print community to make the next step into CNC. I hope to contribute some day.. Thanks to you both.
Truly amazing! And I love that you’re making your improvements free as well! Thank you 😊. This is how open source should be. I just wish I was good enough to add to it myself. One day maybe. Cheers
This is the beginning of cheap and high quality cnc. Can you imagine, how many things will be possible if makers can shape metal? this way we can 3d print cnc machines and cnc hot ends and stuff for the printers. My mind is blown!
Nice work. You might want to reconfigure your machine to home to Z max instead of Z min, considering that the machine will have a router on it. You wouldn't want to damage something if you accidentally hit home all by mistake.
Goid grief you really put alot of work into these, much appreciated, especially seeing the use of the 3d printer type control board and touch screen so you can run a job via an sd card. No need to have a laptop so saving $$$$$ Laurie
Great video series. When you adjust the voltage, I suggest using the 2V setting for adjusting, as it's (usually) more precise than the 20V setting. The difference is "huge" on the cheap DT830x multimeters. If you have a Fluke, it really doesn't matter, though. ;)
Hey! Awesome video. Glad you found a use for the MKS GEN L case I designed for my MPCNC. Didn't realise you can get 32 bit boards with the same form factor; am very tempted to do what you've done and go 32 bit with a nice touch screen!
Great job, helps me a lot, as I am at the point you finished in video1. Controller and wiring , you just helped me figure out what to use. I am doing the MPCNC myself!
Hello Michael, Terrific project I plan on following your lead! I would like to try the senseless homing with the auto squaring and I would like to understand why you had to move to dual limit switches. Also can you say why you selected the TMC5160 as oppose to say TMC2209? Thanks for what you Do!!!!!!
Hi Micheal. Thanks for a great video. I’m really enjoying your channel. You have inspired me to attempt this Lowrider 2 and I’m finally up to the electronics stage. I bought an SKR V1.3 with TMC2209s and with a TFT35 v2.0 display. I was hoping to be able to adopt you generously shared firmware to get it all up and running. At the moment I’m having real trouble with the display update. Can not seam to get it to simply accept a logo.bmp update via the SD card as they mention in their document about customisation of the display. Are you able to point me in the right direction?
You have the 12 volt fan output labeled TTL. Which uses 5 volts. I used a spare endstop pin on my Rambo MINI board for 5 volt TTL. Remaping the fan output to that pin. The SKR 1.3 might require the same to the spare endstop input.
Likes the video. A Little fast but the information looks concise enough for me to use. Great job and thank you. I'm going to check out your other videos now.
Hi Michael, regarding the sticker cleaning, I would suggest white spirit, as acetone evaporates quickly. As a painter we have to remove loads of stickers from doors, the white spirit removes easily even the glue. It takes time to soak it in, but once it's done the cleaning is a piece of cake. What awg do you suggest for the nema 17? I'm planning to use an SKR 1.4 turbo with 5 TMC 2209. Thanks for the great uploads, happy for the free shared knowledge. Keep up the good work.
idk if it's actually gonna be a problem, but that mounting of the z end stop switches looks sub optimal, as the axis you are measuring them against is also the direction the mount can rotate, making it easy to get a sensor out of alignment.
I think you should absolutely fix the way you do the homing for z axis. If you do it with a tool mounted going down, your tool will likely touch in the table. Or you do it at last in a known position where you did an hole big enough for your tools.
Another amazing and well detailed build. I would love to see you build a conventional MPCNC. I know you already have a router but have you considered making it for a plasma cutter. Thanks again Mike for the great vids.
I have been looking at a MPCNC plasma cutter for some time. There are quite a few people who have had really good results. With a plasma you dont have cutting forces so there is little to no tension on the supports. What is interesting is there was a torch height control done using arduino. Its open source and on github. This link shows it in action and the github files on in the videos description ua-cam.com/video/S1K2DV6XvNE/v-deo.html You can also get reasonable cnc cutting torch attachments for plasma cutters ranging from £11 on aliexpress.
Great Job! I think you should make a frame and y carriage based on the open source Prusa plans but maybe make it a bit bigger say 300+. I would really enjoy watching that series.
To remove stickers, don't use acetone which tends to dry the glue and makes it hard to get off. Instead, get a spray can of motorcycle chain cleaner. It's a mix of oil and solvents. Soak the paper of the sticker and it'll come off easily without leaving the glue on the part.
I found it inconsistent, mainly due to my two Z axes having different alignment and therefore varying torque to rotate. I agree you can do it but there came a point where I had to cut my losses and get it working more reliably.
Great job!! Excellent tutorial. Waiting for next videos showing machine in action! But, about VREF, does not it need double the value for Y and Z axis?
Are you not having any issues with noise from the stepper motor. Limit switches are prone to glitches because of this. Shielded cable is a solution to this. Some people are using cat 5 to wire the limits as well. I just wanted to give you heads up just in case you have a long print on your hands and randomly locks. Also Grounding the metal on your machine. It took me days to figure that out.
You have taken a good CNC and made it Great. your tweets are very easy to understand and follow. the auto level and alignment is very clever. this is priceless to a newbie like me. I can't wait to try this build. is there anything I should know for USA inches vs Metric other than the pipes? thanks for your hard work.
Thanks for your helpful videos. Any reason you chose TMC5160 over TMC2209? Is the higher current rating of the TMC5160 really needed or is the TMC2209 sufficient?
I'm hoping you still check these comments. But thank you for your work on this! I can't find the skr 1.3. The link says unavailable and I can't seem to find it anywhere else. Will your custom firmware work on a 1.2 or. 1.4, or 2?
I stopped buying some pvc fittings from homedepot because they put barcode stickers on the parts. Some they place right on the glued surfaces, and getting it off is nearly impossible. The same with copper pipe fittings, though they are so expensive now you cannot justify using them anyway. Also wouldn't using copper pipe be better because it is smooth?
Love your explanations - Unfortunately I'm coming in to this a bit late and the V1 kits were discontinued. Instead I have tried to 'go it alone' and source all the parts individually and have now completed all the mechanical bits. I would like to use your auto-squaring solution but the SKR 1.3 appears to be discontinued - do you know if the SKR 2 is a direct replacement? btw - Try turps instead of acetone to remove those labels, you may need to scratch through the shiny coat on the label first.
Great video! Will the MKS TFT 35 3.5" version work with the files you have provided? I'm am thinking of building the lowrider cnd and already have a mks tft35 screen.
I'm building my own with a SKR v1.3 and TFT 35 v2.0. Here's a great case for both www.thingiverse.com/thing:3878962. I have dual homing Y and Z. Currently building the table so haven't been able to test the Y axis, but X and Z are working fine. I also did a few mods to the TFT 35 firmware to add zeroing and removing unnecessary functions Currently, my build looks like it should home to Ymin rather than Ymax. Not sure why Michael chose to home Y to the far end of his table. I'm going to add another set of Y axis end stops instead of removing wire, and then simply swap them out. After that, my Lowrider2 should home x and y to the front left of the table.
neither are working for me.. plus the files weren't free. i had to donate.... not that I care about donating mike has helped me a lot thus far. but now that the files are not working at all, I feel scammed a little. also, the fact that the marlin doesn't support 2209 drivers so I even purchased 5160s and that set me back 150 Canadian. and inside his skr 1.3 files there's not even a firmware file or a .ino. the reason I even went this route is that my time is scarce atm, just to get it functional. but eventually I will get this up and running myself the long way. did you get this up and running?
Do you think your 1.3 firmware can be reworked to use a 1.4 Turbo (LPC1769)? I got a 1.4 T/TFT35 bundle for my MPCNC Burly, but now can't locate firmware that actually works, just a version from a V1 facebook group that compiles, but I can't seem to connect to the board via TFT or S3D over USB.
Hi Michael, I'm very new with DIY CNC and programable boards. I found your channel and it is exactly what I was looking! I tried exactly the same as you explained in the video and I keep getting this error when I press build: LPC1768 FAILED 00:00:01.069 I don't know what error is this but I know that number lpc1768 is the processor. Unfortunately, it happens only with your firmware, I tried with marlin bug fix 2 and it works but I want to use your version of firmware for auto balance function. Thanks in advance and stay safe!
Nice video! Thank you for the interesting content. I would be interested a test of how accurate the Lowrider is and how long it takes to carve some kind of test pieces for exemple from 12 mm soft plywood and something bit harder like baltic birch plywood.
once you get it running good you might consider remaking those wood frames out of 10 mm aluminium and also wd-40 is awesome for removing all glue and stickers.
What for? This machine has much more deep seated shortcomings than those plywood pieces. Fire is awesome for removing glue and stickers too. So kill it with fire!
Hi Michael. I raely like your content. I have one question. Why did you wire the limit switches to normally open? I would rather wire the normally colsed.
Very awesome! You can btw disable low print temp warning in the marlin firmware! I would really want to know your accelerate and jerk settings. As I have found out 3D printers are a bit to fast for my own laser.
Hello Michael. Been learning lot from your 3d printer vids and wow i just discovered this so late, and am about to make one and starting to go through self sources BoM in my country. Why did you opt for SKR instead of the original Ramps btw? Is it still viable to build LW using Ramps Mega combo? Cuz i got lots from my old spares, and A4988 drivers? Thx a lot, hopefully before i make much mistakes in purchasing the wrong item that you can help sort it out as it's quite hard to find parts here in my country, Indonesia.
Can we use this LR2 CNC for the commercial purpose with air cooling system? .because if we use continuously 4 to 8 hours stepper motor and control board temperature will increase.. so please advise ......
amazing friend. will you have the files of those parts to be able to print them? It would be great to be able to follow your steps, greetings from Argentina
Marcelo Deri as i understand this is not open source so no one can actually make it unless u ask for permission but u won’t be able to do mods, check on Twitter
Thanks for this video. I am currently trying to build the Lowrider CNC and am about ready to do the wiring but have a couple of questions. The RAMPS kit I bought has A4988 stepper motor drivers I have read that these are more reliable than the DRV8825 drivers, but they are 16 step rather than 32 step. Will the same firmware work with these, or do I need a different firmware, and if so which one? I do have some 2588's available which I can use if that is recommended. Second question is about burning the firmware. Do I have the RAMPS board and LCD board plugged in when I burn the firmware? or do I burn the firmware first, and then plug in these boards. I assume that the firmware has to be burned before I can adjust the potentiometers. Vern in Canada
interesting to see the dual leveling, never seen anyone do that before, wondering though how that would go with putting strain on the 3d printed parts if its way out of alignment (one side compared to the other)
By any chance is there a way to add a Z PROBE to the board? My thoughts were to use the alligator clip method as a switch to probe the bed and having the probe use the z end-stop switch pins. So after I home with the dual Z I then disconnect one z end-stop and connect the Z probe to the same pins and run some G code. However I googled around and found that it might not be possible to use the pins for different purposes. There are several nice Z PROBE ideas on Thingiverse to calibrate the ZERO point of the build are. Another idea is that it seems like X_MAX pins are available but is it possible to have a Z PROBE hooked up to X_MAX or X_MIN pins and have the signals work for Z PROBE? I haven't assembled my machine yet but I have all the parts and can't wait to make this. Thank you for this nice tutorial :)
So cool made with the SKR 1.3 and the TMC 5160 drivers! Really impressive. One item: Cannot find the Firmware .bin file on the given files in the description :-( Can anyone help? Thank you!!
Gday Mic Great Vids Helps me so much, was wondering one thing will the MKS TFT28 work the same with the Rambo 1.4 board as it does with SkR board? thankyou
Well that's pretty cool but have no 3D printer. I do want tho .... to make some sort of "reliable" diy CNC. then use that one to craft a better one. I don't need a pro or prosumer type CNC just one that's say good enough to like .1 of a mm pretty neat tho.
great video I'm building the lowrider2 in the same config as yours just wondering if you have a wiring diagram for how you wired yours up as i noticed you had black wires coming of the stepper drivers many thanks peter
Hey, this is awesome.I just updated the firmware on the TFT28 that I had. Is it possible to also have a "100mm" range in the move tab? I know this can be pretty dangerous if you accidentally hit the 100 instead of 1 or 10, but 2.5m is a long way on the Y. It would be even better if it was possible to only limit the '100' range to X and Y
Michael, Some of the links above are no longer available, the MKS TFT28 - do you think the updated version the TFT 35 will work with your firmware files?
Warning :Never, ever unplug and plug your stepper cables if you have board powered. It's very easy to burn your drivers that way. This is not mentioned in video when he unplugs wires. Also resistor isn't needed when you have correct firmware. At least I didn't have any issues with mpcnc
In the video you mention adding a resistor to trick the board into thinking it has temperature, but you do not say which resistor you use. Can you explain this a little better? Also, in the video when you show the SKR board, it does not look like you a resistor on it any more, but something else? I am new to this and any information would be greatly appreciated.
Hi from Holland Im in trouble setting up the mks robin nano v3.1 i was planning on a cnc machine with 4 nema23 motors with 2 times y 1 time x and 2 times z 5 external steppr dm542 And 6endstops How do i set this up in marlin ? Mabe you can show me right direction. Greetz Edwin
Wondering if it's possible to have one Z limit switch signal also serve as a Z probe signal? So after homing Z you would then have an alligator clip with an extended limit switch write on the tool and the other one on some conductive material that the tool touches to indicate the tool height. Possible?
Just a heads up, at @11:10 you said common and normally open pins. The MPCNC LR documentation all says use common and normally closed. Did you reverse something in the firmware to account for the opposite switch configuration?
Any chance to can do video/code for SKR2 and TFT35 for the low rider with endstops? I purchased and downloaded the existing 1.3/TFT firmware which you wrote but due to lack of experience I'm unable to modify this to work......
Love this design. I am a technical mentor at a local school STEM High School Invention Center. I presented this design to the school Board an receive approval to teach and advance class on building a CNC for the center for use. Thanks for the detail design to reference.
Great concept, "lowrider" CNC . My very first CNC machine I built back in the late 1980's early 1990's was also a lowrider, almost like a plotter, vinyl cutter on the Z axis function (Pen UP , Pen Down). At that time, I needed to cut a lot of flat plates from plywood, plastic and thin aluminum, so height was not that big of a deal and thus I designed my machine to run on parallel rails using high quality drawer slides spaced 4" appart for the x and Y axis, using acme screws, home made delrin nuts and steppers from surplus machinery. I mounted this machine mechanics to a 2" thick particle board formica covered 2x2 ft night stand table, it was heavy solid and pretty darn flat and had great squareness so assembly was rather fast. All CNC file work was saved as plt file, (plotter file extension) and I was running a DIY 4 axis controller board powered by an old computer power supply. Back in the day there were no kits available and one had to piece everything together with a lot of elbow grease, search/find and creativity, but this first machine worked very well for the making flat pattern work.
I made a similar machine 5 years ago tired of not finding a suitable inexpensive machine that would cut, ultra fast, fabrics. Lasers are great for this and running on belts it is a must for speed. My fabric cutting lowrider machine however runs on steel U-Channel extrusions for both the rails and the table base, making it extremely rigid, and probably overkill for laser cut fabrics, but the U Shapes on the extrusions also allowed me to hide the belts inside for a super clean setup. This machine will also cut wood and aluminum equipped with a high speed router with a good degree of precision.
A machine that uses a regular table, or work surface, as a base is a bit tricky, since most tables are not designed for squareness precision bases but rather for surface functionality. I also have made my own 3D printed rails and no matter how strong you make a plastic 3D printed plastic rail, it does not match the rigidity and precision of a metal one, and although properly designed 3D printed rails work great with high precision skate bearings, just do not plan on cutting metal parts with precision and speed, for this you really need a rail system and structure with high precision and mass, no 3D printed plastic rail block or wood table mounted mechanics is going to do that.
One of my first bought CNC machines was an early retrofitted Sherline Mill (not steel but still, solid aluminum machine) a great little machine which I modified the screws and nuts to provide greater precision, and impressively I cut a lot of aluminum small Injection molds including some steel dies, for the first products I was producing when I establish my company. Back in these times , desktop 3D printers to the level they are now, were still a dream.
It is interesting to see technology evolve, especially when you have been watching it from the very early stages.
You are like a genius software/mechanical/electronic engineer with a thick smattering of talented 3d design.
Thank you for all of your hard work on this project. I am building the MPCNC and made the appropriate changes in the Marlin config that you provided to run dual x and dual y steppers using the SKR v1.3. It worked the first time! Now all I need is a spindle motor and I will be in business.
How do you like the firmware for the SKR v1.3 ?
You are the best and glad to see you contribuiting to open source projects to make getting into CNC easier, better control boards, and better use with end stops everywhere, and touch screen control!
I love the customization of the touch screen... great project and I would love to see the Ryobi trim router in action... I love your channel.. thank you for all your awesome work and sharing it!!!
I'm planning a quick release system to switch between router and laser. More designing to do!
Another great video and that boot screen is niiiice!
I love how you developed this and I love how people add to it! What a great community! Thank you
Hi Ryan, thanks for making a fantastic concept. I can tell from the parts that this is very well engineered and a lot of time has gone into it.
@@TeachingTech Thanks, that is a great thing to hear. It took a lot of time and countless people like you willing to give it a try and giving constructive criticism. One heck of a community behind me making me look good.
A big thanks to you Ryan also. This is such a great way for people in the 3d print community to make the next step into CNC.
I hope to contribute some day.. Thanks to you both.
Getting close, Ryan guess I need to order a new wiring harness!!
Truly amazing! And I love that you’re making your improvements free as well! Thank you 😊. This is how open source should be. I just wish I was good enough to add to it myself. One day maybe. Cheers
This is the beginning of cheap and high quality cnc. Can you imagine, how many things will be possible if makers can shape metal?
this way we can 3d print cnc machines and cnc hot ends and stuff for the printers. My mind is blown!
Nice work. You might want to reconfigure your machine to home to Z max instead of Z min, considering that the machine will have a router on it. You wouldn't want to damage something if you accidentally hit home all by mistake.
Use the neglected conduit for your wires spanning across your machine. then cable chain across the aluminium angle for your x.
I have some spare cable chain in my drawer and am considering this.
Goid grief you really put alot of work into these, much appreciated, especially seeing the use of the 3d printer type control board and touch screen so you can run a job via an sd card. No need to have a laptop so saving $$$$$ Laurie
Yup gonna be making one of these for sure. Far too useful to pass up.
Did you make one? How’d it go?
Great video series. When you adjust the voltage, I suggest using the 2V setting for adjusting, as it's (usually) more precise than the 20V setting. The difference is "huge" on the cheap DT830x multimeters. If you have a Fluke, it really doesn't matter, though. ;)
Hey! Awesome video. Glad you found a use for the MKS GEN L case I designed for my MPCNC. Didn't realise you can get 32 bit boards with the same form factor; am very tempted to do what you've done and go 32 bit with a nice touch screen!
Great job, helps me a lot, as I am at the point you finished in video1.
Controller and wiring , you just helped me figure out what to use.
I am doing the MPCNC myself!
Hello Michael, Terrific project I plan on following your lead!
I would like to try the senseless homing with the auto squaring and I would like to understand why you had to move to dual limit switches. Also can you say why you selected the TMC5160 as oppose to say TMC2209?
Thanks for what you Do!!!!!!
I used sandleford towel rails. Didn’t have any of the glue labels and worked perfectly for mpcnc
I was eagerly awaiting this follow up video. Very well done, you make a great instructor.
Hi Micheal. Thanks for a great video. I’m really enjoying your channel. You have inspired me to attempt this Lowrider 2 and I’m finally up to the electronics stage. I bought an SKR V1.3 with TMC2209s and with a TFT35 v2.0 display. I was hoping to be able to adopt you generously shared firmware to get it all up and running. At the moment I’m having real trouble with the display update. Can not seam to get it to simply accept a logo.bmp update via the SD card as they mention in their document about customisation of the display. Are you able to point me in the right direction?
You have the 12 volt fan output labeled TTL. Which uses 5 volts. I used a spare endstop pin on my Rambo MINI board for 5 volt TTL. Remaping the fan output to that pin. The SKR 1.3 might require the same to the spare endstop input.
damn Michael!!!! this is (imo) some of your best stuff yet! you are growing so fast, keep up the massive work
great video...
i wish i had the talent and knowledge to build that Lowrider CNC....
Likes the video. A Little fast but the information looks concise enough for me to use. Great job and thank you. I'm going to check out your other videos now.
Goo Gone for stickers and labels. Best stuff ever.
Hi Michael, regarding the sticker cleaning, I would suggest white spirit, as acetone evaporates quickly. As a painter we have to remove loads of stickers from doors, the white spirit removes easily even the glue. It takes time to soak it in, but once it's done the cleaning is a piece of cake.
What awg do you suggest for the nema 17? I'm planning to use an SKR 1.4 turbo with 5 TMC 2209.
Thanks for the great uploads, happy for the free shared knowledge.
Keep up the good work.
Best way for stickers is with a heat gun or hair dryer, then some acetone for any residual glue.
Awesome, i am looking for a cool cnc for a while. This will fit my needs perfectly... Do some milling vids with that👍
You just saved me a lot of time. Thank you.
You're very welcome :)
idk if it's actually gonna be a problem, but that mounting of the z end stop switches looks sub optimal, as the axis you are measuring them against is also the direction the mount can rotate, making it easy to get a sensor out of alignment.
Hey Michael, Awesome project and it's coming along great. Although I don't have the room for a CNC it's still interesting.
I think you should absolutely fix the way you do the homing for z axis. If you do it with a tool mounted going down, your tool will likely touch in the table. Or you do it at last in a known position where you did an hole big enough for your tools.
Use a router to cut 6mm aluminum to make the frame for a prusa i3 mk2 clone!
That's a boring project if you have router :D
A simple turn buckle could eliminate zip tied belts. Would also give you an easier means to adjust the belt if it is to tight
Another amazing and well detailed build. I would love to see you build a conventional MPCNC. I know you already have a router but have you considered making it for a plasma cutter.
Thanks again Mike for the great vids.
That is an interesting idea. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I also have a router and would interested in making a plasma cutter
I have been looking at a MPCNC plasma cutter for some time. There are quite a few people who have had really good results.
With a plasma you dont have cutting forces so there is little to no tension on the supports.
What is interesting is there was a torch height control done using arduino. Its open source and on github.
This link shows it in action and the github files on in the videos description
ua-cam.com/video/S1K2DV6XvNE/v-deo.html
You can also get reasonable cnc cutting torch attachments for plasma cutters ranging from £11 on aliexpress.
Can't wait to build one of these. Thanks for the video Michael.
Great Job! I think you should make a frame and y carriage based on the open source Prusa plans but maybe make it a bit bigger say 300+. I would really enjoy watching that series.
To remove stickers, don't use acetone which tends to dry the glue and makes it hard to get off. Instead, get a spray can of motorcycle chain cleaner. It's a mix of oil and solvents. Soak the paper of the sticker and it'll come off easily without leaving the glue on the part.
Its on a steel pipe. Just heat or burn it off. Heat gun or propane.
you can do sensorless homing... just need to add some spacers to the lead screw. Check my build thread on v1 forum :)
I found it inconsistent, mainly due to my two Z axes having different alignment and therefore varying torque to rotate. I agree you can do it but there came a point where I had to cut my losses and get it working more reliably.
Great job!! Excellent tutorial. Waiting for next videos showing machine in action! But, about VREF, does not it need double the value for Y and Z axis?
Are you not having any issues with noise from the stepper motor. Limit switches are prone to glitches because of this. Shielded cable is a solution to this. Some people are using cat 5 to wire the limits as well. I just wanted to give you heads up just in case you have a long print on your hands and randomly locks. Also Grounding the metal on your machine. It took me days to figure that out.
You have taken a good CNC and made it Great. your tweets are very easy to understand and follow. the auto level and alignment is very clever. this is priceless to a newbie like me. I can't wait to try this build. is there anything I should know for USA inches vs Metric other than the pipes?
thanks for your hard work.
FYI, to remove sticky residue try soaking the labels in WD40 for several minutes then wiping down with alcohol after
You are the best. Keep the videos coming and please don't forget about 3d printers 👍👍👍👍
Its interesting this runs Marlin, surpised there isnt a cnc fork for marlin which removes the need for an extruder.
Thanks for your helpful videos.
Any reason you chose TMC5160 over TMC2209? Is the higher current rating of the TMC5160 really needed or is the TMC2209 sufficient?
Really awesome. If it's possible to cut depron and 3mm plywood I will probably build one
I have both of those in hand and I'm confident it will handle it. Will test for sure.
I'm hoping you still check these comments. But thank you for your work on this! I can't find the skr 1.3. The link says unavailable and I can't seem to find it anywhere else. Will your custom firmware work on a 1.2 or. 1.4, or 2?
I stopped buying some pvc fittings from homedepot because they put barcode stickers on the parts. Some they place right on the glued surfaces, and getting it off is nearly impossible. The same with copper pipe fittings, though they are so expensive now you cannot justify using them anyway.
Also wouldn't using copper pipe be better because it is smooth?
wonderful, impressive build - you make me want to construct one!
Looks great!!
Love your explanations - Unfortunately I'm coming in to this a bit late and the V1 kits were discontinued. Instead I have tried to 'go it alone' and source all the parts individually and have now completed all the mechanical bits. I would like to use your auto-squaring solution but the SKR 1.3 appears to be discontinued - do you know if the SKR 2 is a direct replacement?
btw - Try turps instead of acetone to remove those labels, you may need to scratch through the shiny coat on the label first.
Great video! Will the MKS TFT 35 3.5" version work with the files you have provided? I'm am thinking of building the lowrider cnd and already have a mks tft35 screen.
I'm building my own with a SKR v1.3 and TFT 35 v2.0. Here's a great case for both www.thingiverse.com/thing:3878962.
I have dual homing Y and Z. Currently building the table so haven't been able to test the Y axis, but X and Z are working fine. I also did a few mods to the TFT 35 firmware to add zeroing and removing unnecessary functions Currently, my build looks like it should home to Ymin rather than Ymax. Not sure why Michael chose to home Y to the far end of his table. I'm going to add another set of Y axis end stops instead of removing wire, and then simply swap them out. After that, my Lowrider2 should home x and y to the front left of the table.
Thanks for all your videos, I have put the file for the SKR onto the SD card reset but nothing, screen file worked a treat. Any suggestions
neither are working for me.. plus the files weren't free. i had to donate.... not that I care about donating mike has helped me a lot thus far. but now that the files are not working at all, I feel scammed a little. also, the fact that the marlin doesn't support 2209 drivers so I even purchased 5160s and that set me back 150 Canadian. and inside his skr 1.3 files there's not even a firmware file or a .ino. the reason I even went this route is that my time is scarce atm, just to get it functional. but eventually I will get this up and running myself the long way. did you get this up and running?
Do you think your 1.3 firmware can be reworked to use a 1.4 Turbo (LPC1769)? I got a 1.4 T/TFT35 bundle for my MPCNC Burly, but now can't locate firmware that actually works, just a version from a V1 facebook group that compiles, but I can't seem to connect to the board via TFT or S3D over USB.
jeez, how did I miss this?
Hi Michael,
I'm very new with DIY CNC and programable boards.
I found your channel and it is exactly what I was looking!
I tried exactly the same as you explained in the video and I keep getting this error when I press build:
LPC1768 FAILED 00:00:01.069
I don't know what error is this but I know that number lpc1768 is the processor.
Unfortunately, it happens only with your firmware, I tried with marlin bug fix 2 and it works but I want to use your version of firmware for auto balance function.
Thanks in advance and stay safe!
Nice video! Thank you for the interesting content. I would be interested a test of how accurate the Lowrider is and how long it takes to carve some kind of test pieces for exemple from 12 mm soft plywood and something bit harder like baltic birch plywood.
You can easily get the labels off the pipe with a lighter, just heat them up and they peal off easily.
A simple hinge on the MKS box would easily eliminate the SD card isuue.
once you get it running good you might consider remaking those wood frames out of 10 mm aluminium and also wd-40 is awesome for removing all glue and stickers.
What for? This machine has much more deep seated shortcomings than those plywood pieces. Fire is awesome for removing glue and stickers too. So kill it with fire!
Hi Michael. I raely like your content.
I have one question.
Why did you wire the limit switches to normally open?
I would rather wire the normally colsed.
Very awesome!
You can btw disable low print temp warning in the marlin firmware!
I would really want to know your accelerate and jerk settings. As I have found out 3D printers are a bit to fast for my own laser.
I haven't checked yet but I'm running whatever V1 engineering set up as default in their firmware.
Mine is on the way
Hello Michael. Been learning lot from your 3d printer vids and wow i just discovered this so late, and am about to make one and starting to go through self sources BoM in my country. Why did you opt for SKR instead of the original Ramps btw? Is it still viable to build LW using Ramps Mega combo? Cuz i got lots from my old spares, and A4988 drivers? Thx a lot, hopefully before i make much mistakes in purchasing the wrong item that you can help sort it out as it's quite hard to find parts here in my country, Indonesia.
nice work and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Can we use this LR2 CNC for the commercial purpose with air cooling system? .because if we use continuously 4 to 8 hours stepper motor and control board temperature will increase..
so please advise ......
Impressive job you have done
Nice :-)
Thanks for sharing :-)
Use Zippo lighter fluid for cleaning the sticky residue from stickers off
Would love to see video how to install klipper on ender 3 with Bl Touch
I've been putting it off for a while but that one is coming, with a part 2 on a specific raspberry pi shield mainboard for Klipper.
Great set of video on Lowrider, they are very helpful, thank you. Does your firmware version also support the larger MKS 35 TFT? Thanks
amazing friend. will you have the files of those parts to be able to print them? It would be great to be able to follow your steps, greetings from Argentina
Marcelo Deri as i understand this is not open source so no one can actually make it unless u ask for permission but u won’t be able to do mods, check on Twitter
Braulio Manuel buenas hermano tienes razón no son archivos de código abierto. Te los venden
Braulio Manuel queríamos imprimir las piesas en casa con una 3d casera q armamos con arduino
Great information about the mpcnc dont spose this will be able to cut metal or if it can be modified to cut metal like aluminium or steel?
With the rolling frame I'm not sure it will be rigid enough. You would have to do it so incredibly slow for this reason.
@@TeachingTech so would you suggest doing a normal type mpcnc for metal cutting?
I have a Bigtreetech TFT35 touch screen, and I like your buttons and icons. Can you share the source .bmps for the icons you edited?
Awesome stuff... Jsut a quick tip for the future. WD40 will do a much better job of taking those stickers off.
just tried it on an annoying sticker i had somewhere, it came off alot easier! Thx for the tip man!
Great video.... do you think the firmware you used can be used with small changes in a V1 Burly MPCNC ? what major changes should be required?
Thanks for this video. I am currently trying to build the Lowrider CNC and am about ready to do the wiring but have a couple of questions.
The RAMPS kit I bought has A4988 stepper motor drivers I have read that these are more reliable than the DRV8825 drivers, but they are 16 step rather than 32 step. Will the same firmware work with these, or do I need a different firmware, and if so which one? I do have some 2588's available which I can use if that is recommended.
Second question is about burning the firmware. Do I have the RAMPS board and LCD board plugged in when I burn the firmware? or do I burn the firmware first, and then plug in these boards. I assume that the firmware has to be burned before I can adjust the potentiometers.
Vern in Canada
Whelp... guess I know what my next project is gonna be. Awesome set of videos!!
interesting to see the dual leveling, never seen anyone do that before, wondering though how that would go with putting strain on the 3d printed parts if its way out of alignment (one side compared to the other)
By any chance is there a way to add a Z PROBE to the board?
My thoughts were to use the alligator clip method as a switch to probe the bed and having the probe use the z end-stop switch pins. So after I home with the dual Z I then disconnect one z end-stop and connect the Z probe to the same pins and run some G code. However I googled around and found that it might not be possible to use the pins for different purposes. There are several nice Z PROBE ideas on Thingiverse to calibrate the ZERO point of the build are.
Another idea is that it seems like X_MAX pins are available but is it possible to have a Z PROBE hooked up to X_MAX or X_MIN pins and have the signals work for Z PROBE?
I haven't assembled my machine yet but I have all the parts and can't wait to make this. Thank you for this nice tutorial :)
Great!
So cool made with the SKR 1.3 and the TMC 5160 drivers! Really impressive. One item: Cannot find the Firmware .bin file on the given files in the description :-(
Can anyone help? Thank you!!
Olive Oil can help with removing stickers. Next time it will be easier! 🙃
Gday Mic Great Vids Helps me so much, was wondering one thing will the MKS TFT28 work the same with the Rambo 1.4 board as it does with SkR board? thankyou
Well that's pretty cool but have no 3D printer.
I do want tho .... to make some sort of "reliable" diy CNC. then use that one to craft a better one. I don't need a pro or prosumer type CNC just one that's say good enough to like .1 of a mm
pretty neat tho.
great video I'm building the lowrider2 in the same config as yours just wondering if you have a wiring diagram for how you wired yours up as i noticed you had black wires coming of the stepper drivers many thanks peter
Hey, this is awesome.I just updated the firmware on the TFT28 that I had. Is it possible to also have a "100mm" range in the move tab? I know this can be pretty dangerous if you accidentally hit the 100 instead of 1 or 10, but 2.5m is a long way on the Y. It would be even better if it was possible to only limit the '100' range to X and Y
Best video I've seen in a while! Can this be adapted for plasma cutting?
No
Michael, Some of the links above are no longer available, the MKS TFT28 - do you think the updated version the TFT 35 will work with your firmware files?
I’d also like to know please. Have a tft32.
You are my hero
great stuff.
Warning :Never, ever unplug and plug your stepper cables if you have board powered. It's very easy to burn your drivers that way. This is not mentioned in video when he unplugs wires. Also resistor isn't needed when you have correct firmware. At least I didn't have any issues with mpcnc
In the video you mention adding a resistor to trick the board into thinking it has temperature, but you do not say which resistor you use. Can you explain this a little better? Also, in the video when you show the SKR board, it does not look like you a resistor on it any more, but something else? I am new to this and any information would be greatly appreciated.
Hi from Holland
Im in trouble setting up the mks robin nano v3.1
i was planning on a cnc machine with 4 nema23 motors with 2 times y 1 time x and 2 times z
5 external steppr dm542
And 6endstops
How do i set this up in marlin ?
Mabe you can show me right direction.
Greetz Edwin
To remove easily stickers I use citrus solvent
Wondering if it's possible to have one Z limit switch signal also serve as a Z probe signal? So after homing Z you would then have an alligator clip with an extended limit switch write on the tool and the other one on some conductive material that the tool touches to indicate the tool height. Possible?
Saw a combo with the sir v1.3 with tft35 v 2.0 and tmc2280 uary would this work with your custom firmware and graphics
Just a heads up, at @11:10 you said common and normally open pins. The MPCNC LR documentation all says use common and normally closed. Did you reverse something in the firmware to account for the opposite switch configuration?
If you are connecting two 2 Amp motors to the stepper driver, in theory you could be drawing 4 Amps. Shouldn't the vref be adjusted accordingly?
Great video. I have question about tft screen, can I instal 3.5" screen, its bigger and cheaper?
Any chance to can do video/code for SKR2 and TFT35 for the low rider with endstops? I purchased and downloaded the existing 1.3/TFT firmware which you wrote but due to lack of experience I'm unable to modify this to work......