I'll be interested to see what the effect is. I know Gretsch does this on some of their archtops. I'm not sure what their goal is--increased strength or reduced feedback. Or both. I don't know much about violins, but I read that violin players actually do not want sustain, since they can get all the sustain they want by just bowing for as long as necessary, and when they stop bowing they want the string to stop vibrating. I think, if you pluck an open violin string, it will stop ringing fairly quickly, in comparison to a flat-top acoustic guitar. I think a wooden Selmer-style guitar has a slight outward arch to it. Their tops are thinner than a Gibson-style archtop (2.0mm vs. 2.8mm), probably because the break angle is less (so lower downward force). For getting the length of the stick right, how about putting it in the sound hole and marking the inner surface with a utility knife? Then sand as needed. From what I've read about violins, the sound post sits under the treble side (bass side has a brace under it--the only brace in a violin!). The exact position of the post apparently greatly affects the tone, so you have to play with it to get it right.
Sound posts in archtop electrics were aimed at feedback, as far as I know. Yep, I will start long and sand down (not too long though). I may use two posts, make a little frame, and give the top a very slight arch if I get ambitious. Very worried about cracking the old plastic.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'll be interested to see what the effect is. I know Gretsch does this on some of their archtops. I'm not sure what their goal is--increased strength or reduced feedback. Or both.
I don't know much about violins, but I read that violin players actually do not want sustain, since they can get all the sustain they want by just bowing for as long as necessary, and when they stop bowing they want the string to stop vibrating. I think, if you pluck an open violin string, it will stop ringing fairly quickly, in comparison to a flat-top acoustic guitar.
I think a wooden Selmer-style guitar has a slight outward arch to it. Their tops are thinner than a Gibson-style archtop (2.0mm vs. 2.8mm), probably because the break angle is less (so lower downward force).
For getting the length of the stick right, how about putting it in the sound hole and marking the inner surface with a utility knife? Then sand as needed.
From what I've read about violins, the sound post sits under the treble side (bass side has a brace under it--the only brace in a violin!). The exact position of the post apparently greatly affects the tone, so you have to play with it to get it right.
Sound posts in archtop electrics were aimed at feedback, as far as I know. Yep, I will start long and sand down (not too long though). I may use two posts, make a little frame, and give the top a very slight arch if I get ambitious. Very worried about cracking the old plastic.
Nice guitar project