Correct Sanding Makes A BIG Difference
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- #sanding #cabinetdoor #finishing
In woodworking, whether painting or staining, creating the perfect finish
begins on the sanding table. A finish is only as good as the work you put
in to prepare it. Follow the steps I take to ensure your project has the lasting
look and feel of perfection.
Thank you, Wes!
Im going to make my first set of cabinets soon. Im glad I found your videos, they're excellent. Thank you.
Glad you like them and that it was helpful! Thanks for watching, Wes
Something I learned just today when it comes to sanding router marks - run your fingers along the route, if you can feel bumps or "chatter" keep knocking it down until it feels glassy like the rest of the door. Also, strong lighting helps to illuminate chatter marks you can't otherwise see in normal shop lighting.
I've been an apprentice for almost two months now and I have to say, holy hell I didn't realize that sanding would be, hold on... gotta sand. Alright, I've sanded (machine sander and then boss sizes the doors on the table saw), and now I've gotta go rough sand. Alright, I've found my little keyholes and voids, filled them, sanded them and I'm ready for the first coat of primer! And now that that's dry, it's time to SAND. Alright, some more puddy, didn't realize that was a void but okay, and now, second coat of primer! And now I sand again. ALRIGHT! Finally, it's time for that first coat of PAINT! The paint is dry and now it's time to sand before the final coat goes on and DAMNIT! A random piece of the grain is giving me a void so now it's time for BONDO! And then sanding.
All that to say, I had zero the amount of respect I should for the prep work before the ultimate coat goes on and WHY each door looks so pristine!
*Another thing that not even my father or grandfather knew about why the chuck on your drill is important; when screwing the hinges in, you do not want the screw to twist too much in there and get a bad grab - so, you turn the chuck down to 3 or 4 so the drill stops screwing right around where you want it to. I'm third generation appraiser but since work is nill right now, this side job taught me something not even my pop pop knew.
I wish I can be your apprentice
Haha...thanks for the compliment and for watching the channel. Wes
Just about finished with my first cabinet. I have an excellent teacher like yourself. Hope to be as knowledgeable as you one day. Thanks for the education 🤝.
Thank you so very much for your kind words and I am certainly glad I have helped. Of course, you will definitely be a fine woodworker. Wes
Hi you did an excellent job. I noticed that you said red wood would be the best , I wonder how it would look like on pine. Please comment. Thanks
Sorry...I am confused. The video does not mention redwood. The frame of the door is poplar and the panel is MDF...which is typically what I use for paint grade doors. In my opinion, pine is too soft for a good quality paint grade door. Thanks for watching, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Hello. I have watched all your elaborated videos. I made one typing mistake. I should have typed red oaks. In any events in one of your videos I guess you said red oaks. I could be making a mistake. In addition Like always your comments were very clear and again I appreciate your efforts. I hope you forgive me for any mistakes I made. Once again I love your work and you are an excellent instructor. Have a very productive day.
Loved the video Wes! As always full of useful techniques and information 👌👌👌👌🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks John
Very helpful thanks for sharing 💯😎👍💡🔥
What type of bit you used for the corners?
Hi Wes,my question is irrelevant to this article,so please bear with me.
I purchased a curved claw hammer for the purpose of removing nails.When claw is flat on wood and I push hammer against nail inside claw and pull - the claw simply slips over nail and stops at nail head.In other words the claw does not grip the nail against wood.Thank you,Martin
Question. I always used 220 for my final finish. Is that to high for a finish as u said I finalize with 150. Just want to know the difference or max finish quality sanding I should be using.
Just found your channel.
Great information.
Thank you
Hi Gerry...for my paint grade doors 150 is my final sand. For fine hardwood doors like cherry and walnut, 180 is my final sand. I have had good results with that degree of sanding and never felt the necessity to go to 220. Hope this helps. Wes
Wes, I'm having a hard time finding ML Campbell WVP where I live. Can you tell me an alternative that's easy to find at a hardware store and what to use for a durable top coat? I usually use oil based polyurethane. Thank you.
Howard....we just dropped a new video on cerusing technique. I think you will want to see what I came up with for an easy-to-find product. Thanks, Wes
I watch a lot of the ceruse videos you have. How do identify what type of cabinets I have?
Hi Alex...compare your cabinets to the video on our channel "11 different kinds of woods". See if one of them matches. Good luck, Wes
how long do you spend on a typical panel for sanding?
Usually less than 1 minute 😃 thanks for watching, Wes
Why not just make the entire door mdf and limited most sanding. No point in using real wood if you are just going to paint it. The uniform mdf will not form gaps in the floating panel. Better the floating panel effect could just be entirely milled in. Junk furniture or cabinets aka ikea style are disposable anyway. Think about all that epoxy waterfall and beach tables and cutting boards soon to fill the nation’s landfills.