I swear I’ve seen this video before, like a year ago or something. Cool swap though but I’m surprised they skimped on the brakes, E46 330Ci front brakes are pretty much a boltin, a Z3 rack bolts in as well and it’s a quicker ratio.
Quicker ratio rack is kinda unnecessary unless you're building a track car. The stock E36 rack is just fine, and I find the "faster" ratio racks to feel twitchy and annoying in everyday driving + highway driving.
We considered the rack - and theres room for some braking improvement for sure! We posted this is a 2 part series last year on our Core DIY channel, but compiled for this new channel as we just re wrapped up finishing up this build in its newest form. Stay tuned to see where we took it in the end!
Just so you know that "318" rad is used in all e36's up to the 328 in Europe. You guys in the US got a different variant with a remote expansion tank but euro spec cars used that rad with integrated expansion tank. I can see you also have the bigger version made for cars with AC, so you're more than fine. My 325 has no AC so it had even smaller rad and never had issues (even tho I may have done an emergency run, literally pedal to the metal for a good 15 minutes, one way, then the other way.), until the rad decided to leak all the coolant, of course lol Here only the M3 and the diesels got the full size rad with remote tank, and they're different setups than yours, on the diesels there's a big expansion tank where the airbox sits in a gasoline car, and on the euro M3, it's next to the positive jump post.
@fcpeuro-media Well your rad could be the size of a semi truck rad and it shouldn't overcool if your thermostat is working properly so you should probably look into that, especially given the electronic tstat of the m54, might be funky with the swap and tuned dme. I also believe you're running a fan delete and using the AC fan so technically you could also play with different thermoswitch to make the fan turn on until later. But still I insist that the thermostat is wrong if it runs too cool and that'd be patching over that issue anyways. Plus the fan would only impact idle/traffic temps, it'd drop back once you drive faster.
Take a shot every time Gareth says "Yup"
thats how i celebrate cinco de mayo bro
Or when he compares something to a VW
You'd be hammered within the 1st 10minutes of the video.
No one would survive...
I swear I’ve seen this video before, like a year ago or something. Cool swap though but I’m surprised they skimped on the brakes, E46 330Ci front brakes are pretty much a boltin, a Z3 rack bolts in as well and it’s a quicker ratio.
Quicker ratio rack is kinda unnecessary unless you're building a track car. The stock E36 rack is just fine, and I find the "faster" ratio racks to feel twitchy and annoying in everyday driving + highway driving.
We considered the rack - and theres room for some braking improvement for sure! We posted this is a 2 part series last year on our Core DIY channel, but compiled for this new channel as we just re wrapped up finishing up this build in its newest form. Stay tuned to see where we took it in the end!
Just so you know that "318" rad is used in all e36's up to the 328 in Europe.
You guys in the US got a different variant with a remote expansion tank but euro spec cars used that rad with integrated expansion tank. I can see you also have the bigger version made for cars with AC, so you're more than fine. My 325 has no AC so it had even smaller rad and never had issues (even tho I may have done an emergency run, literally pedal to the metal for a good 15 minutes, one way, then the other way.), until the rad decided to leak all the coolant, of course lol
Here only the M3 and the diesels got the full size rad with remote tank, and they're different setups than yours, on the diesels there's a big expansion tank where the airbox sits in a gasoline car, and on the euro M3, it's next to the positive jump post.
Currently if anything the car is overcooling a bit - we are considering making some block offs!
@fcpeuro-media Well your rad could be the size of a semi truck rad and it shouldn't overcool if your thermostat is working properly so you should probably look into that, especially given the electronic tstat of the m54, might be funky with the swap and tuned dme.
I also believe you're running a fan delete and using the AC fan so technically you could also play with different thermoswitch to make the fan turn on until later. But still I insist that the thermostat is wrong if it runs too cool and that'd be patching over that issue anyways. Plus the fan would only impact idle/traffic temps, it'd drop back once you drive faster.
Belgian car
Was this shot with a banana?
Potato 🥔
Beautiful work guys🇺🇸
🙌