I recall back in the 70's where they would "knurl" the guides, then burnish to size. The interesting part was that it was said to be superior to a standard guide in that it would essentially create small pockets all along the length of guide that would retain oil for way better valve lubrication.
That's it Dallas! Over size stem! Nice work. Sorry I haven't in and around much. Just busy doing my own thing but have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
I have dome this a lot "back in the day". All is good as long as the valve guide isn't so sloppy that it has lost it's indexed placement in the head if it is a cast-in guide. In that case the guide would need would need to be drilled out oversized for a new guide, indexed, installed and reamed to size.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 thanks I wasn't sure..never raced an AHRA track Pittsburgh international drag way was my home strip its long gone now ...I enjoy your content...Don
Only thing is knurling is a temporary fix they will wear faster seems you have half the wear surface. Back in the day a lot of budget "remanufactured" engines done by less than reputable companys would have knurled guides vs replaced and that's cheesy that head isn't going to last like a new set of guides, "new" engine at 20k miles vs 100k or 200k and the engine seems to start burning little oil....but as a diy guide bandaid to buy a few more miles out of an engine that don't wanna dump a bunch of money in why not.
watched the video on guide replacement. on a chevy head 333882 the portion that holds the guide is cracked can that part be replaced or do I have to replace the head??
I’d assume the head would be trash at that point. That part is not normally replaceable, it’s part of the casting. Almost anything can be fixed, but the cost normally outweighs the repair unless it’s something of significant value or rarity.
I worked at an engine machine shop that provided this service. We used a very torquey drill that you had to brace yourself and hold on to the drill handle firmly when knurling. I'm surprised the cordless did the job for you.
It’s called a valve guide burnishing tool. Google it and I’m sure you can find many manufacturers. Goodson offers many kinds of tools for home engine builders and likely has them.
In my shop I once in a while will do it on some heads. Most of the time I replace them. If I replace all valves I will buy with over sized stems and reame for a OEM rebuild
If you want to get it running and don't plan on driving it at all or getting rid of the vehicle... Homebuilt stuff...thus is about as good as it's gonna get. Says it all
Unfortunately these tools aren't very cheap, especially if you're only using it once or twice. If I could find a used set for a 289/302 ford valves I would definitely pick them up
I recall back in the 70's where they would "knurl" the guides, then burnish to size. The interesting part was that it was said to be superior to a standard guide in that it would essentially create small pockets all along the length of guide that would retain oil for way better valve lubrication.
Did that on my 327 in 1977...
Never had a problem with oil....also used teflon seals.
That 327 would screen.
@@bryandouglass9997 I love it when engines screen!!
@Anarchy-Is-Liberty love the name u have! It sure is!!
That's it Dallas! Over size stem! Nice work. Sorry I haven't in and around much. Just busy doing my own thing but have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
I have a full set of them. I guess I thought everyone knew about knrling value guides.
on guides that are only a little loose at the ends only run the tool part way through each end guide will last alot longer
'Knurling' guides, old school fix fit for purpose if you understand the limitations. Interesting if with modern oils knurled guides would last longer.
I have dome this a lot "back in the day". All is good as long as the valve guide isn't so sloppy that it has lost it's indexed placement in the head if it is a cast-in guide. In that case the guide would need would need to be drilled out oversized for a new guide, indexed, installed and reamed to size.
New to the neighborhood is this the same as knurling the guides...If so did this on SBC engines and it worked very well even on track cars..
Yes, same thing.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 thanks I wasn't sure..never raced an AHRA track Pittsburgh international drag way was my home strip its long gone now ...I enjoy your content...Don
Only thing is knurling is a temporary fix they will wear faster seems you have half the wear surface. Back in the day a lot of budget "remanufactured" engines done by less than reputable companys would have knurled guides vs replaced and that's cheesy that head isn't going to last like a new set of guides, "new" engine at 20k miles vs 100k or 200k and the engine seems to start burning little oil....but as a diy guide bandaid to buy a few more miles out of an engine that don't wanna dump a bunch of money in why not.
it is the best way to have an otherwise good engine burns oil like hell
I've learned that the hard way
You talked for 7:15 minutes then I watched your elbow for another minute and talked some more.
So you learned nothing of value… it’s a good thing you don’t pay for UA-cam.
Use wood blocks and drill down, easily control r.p.m..
watched the video on guide replacement. on a chevy head 333882 the portion that holds the guide is cracked can that part be replaced or do I have to replace the head??
I’d assume the head would be trash at that point. That part is not normally replaceable, it’s part of the casting. Almost anything can be fixed, but the cost normally outweighs the repair unless it’s something of significant value or rarity.
A 1/2" cord drill motor is more powerful and slow for this
Thanks for sharing.
I worked at an engine machine shop that provided this service. We used a very torquey drill that you had to brace yourself and hold on to the drill handle firmly when knurling. I'm surprised the cordless did the job for you.
I use this cordless drill to drill oil passages in the engine block to 5/8”. I’m sure it can handle something this small.
Did it many times, even on new builds would get this so could control oil flow.
Where get tool
Ran one of my Windsor’s about 130k miles with knurlized guides.
Thank you for this video 👍👍👍
Where do I purchase the tool to do this and the name of it?
It’s called a valve guide burnishing tool. Google it and I’m sure you can find many manufacturers. Goodson offers many kinds of tools for home engine builders and likely has them.
In my shop I once in a while will do it on some heads. Most of the time I replace them. If I replace all valves I will buy with over sized stems and reame for a OEM rebuild
I liked the chevy 6, 230. Knock out the old & hammer in the new. Wham bam thank you mam. with the head off its a 5 min job.
If you want to get it running and don't plan on driving it at all or getting rid of the vehicle...
Homebuilt stuff...thus is about as good as it's gonna get. Says it all
The only draw back is they're short lived, but in a pinch you're good to go.
isnt the burnishing tool supposed to be driven through the guide not drilled through ???
The instructions say to run it through with a drill.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 ah okay thanks good ta know
and you do that before you cut your seats to have your arbor stout ?
so where you get these
McMaster Carr has them.
Use bronze guides
merry christmas
So got to put bigger stem one in
Short term waste of time. Install bronze sleeves
It's called knurling
Does not last long.
Lasts longer than having a bad guide.
Yup, and just about every head I've torn apart with knurled guides have completely worn out the valve stems.
Knerling tool and ream
Unfortunately these tools aren't very cheap, especially if you're only using it once or twice. If I could find a used set for a 289/302 ford valves I would definitely pick them up
I had someone send me the tools, if you need something similar hit eBay and get a used set.
What would cause a motor to not run and shoot gas up through the carb,
Timing or a lean condition
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 could a distributor out of time cause it or would it be the timing chain?
@@thisguy2720 technically it could be either. I'd lean toward the distributor or carb being the problem personally.
@@mr.roddersneighborhood2740 thanks for the help. This cars been driving me crazy
2 degrees!! Not such a beautiful day in the neighborhood 😂
i cant see you block the camera
Same idea as thread forming and 8 mm is 0.3149 or 5/16 sorry I'm a machinists lol
Thanks for setting me straight! I’m not, I’m just a dude, chatting with dudes about dude stuff. Your career is fascinating!
And I should have known that… duh the socket is almost interchangeable in a pinch. Again thanks!
Personally I blame squirrels....... and marry Christmas humans
🐿🎄 Merry Christmas
7 minutes and still not doing anything.
First!
Tennessee weather You should try melting in a shop in SW Texas lol