I rarely comment on videos, but this is a fantastic introduction. I recently bought a Star Adventurer and I appreciate the effort and time you invested in making this guide. Two thumbs up!
Very best you tube tutorial on the star adventure 2i pro out there! Thanks so much for your effort to cover every detail. The rate and tone of your speaking voice was perfect. (Most talk way too fast). Clear skies!!
This was totally great - exactly what I needed to get started with my new Star Adventurer 2i Pro. Expertly put together at exactly the right level of pace and detail. I will certainly feel very confident now setting this all up - soon as I can get a clear night that is - which here in UK this year has been not brilliant. Will watch your other videos too for sure.
I echo all the other complementary comments and words of praise. In the world of pro cycling there's a word (Chapeau) used to express respect to a personality encountered for their knowleadge and expertise. Chapeau is a French term signifying to tip one's hat in respect. Chapeau to you and thanks!
Getting into the game a bit late I guess? I just bought the 2i Pro and tried to get the SA Console App, however Google Play says that software was made for an older version of Android. It wouldn't let me install the app. However, I went to the play store on my PC and told it to install the app on my phone. For some reason, that actually worked. Anyway, absolutely amazing tutorial. Very helpful! Thank you!
Great Tutorial. You’re very detailed on every step including the 3 degree increments on the Star Tracker. You’re the first one who included that information. Thank you.
Very impressive tutorial! I can’t believe you put in all this work and released it for free on UA-cam. You’ve gained a new sub today! I’m an old hat at photography, but brand new to Astro. Looking forward to learning much more from you! Thanks for putting in the time and effort! Hopefully I can pay it forward someday.
Thanks much for your kind words and glad you enjoyed the video. It is rewarding enough to hear that the videos help others. Please don't forget to check out the pinned comment with the values to be used for dithering - I unfortunately forget to include that in the video (even though I had recorded the explanation).
Awesome video!!! I appreciate all the detail. I would like to see how you go about framing your shots and making sure you are getting what you are intending to.
I don't even own a tracker yet and I just watched this whole video! Super informative and easy to follow - hopefully I'll be able to get one soon to put this knowledge to use!
When aligning the date date scale with zero, you used Oct 31st and placed the mark halfway between 10 and 11 on zero. Question #1: Is the day you shot the video Oct 31st? If so, Question #2: The alignment mark is halfway between 10 and 11, shouldn't that be Oct 15th? Or am I confused???
Hi James. Answer #1: No, I did not shoot the video on Oct 31st. You just have to set the date to Oct 31st on the scale regardless of the date you are using it on. It is just the way it has been constructed. Answer #2: The half-way mark is half-way between Oct 1st and Nov 30th - hence it is Oct 31st. Please let me know if you have any other questions. FYI, I just posted a complete guide to using the Wi-Fi app (the SA Console App). So do check that out if you plan to use the App.
I've done this and it definitely isn't sitting with 0 at the top and 6 at the bottom. The only way I can get the reticle with 0 at the top and 6 at the bottom is to set it to 31st December EDIT: I've fixed this, I noticed I couldn't turn the dials separately, I located a small screw on the underside and loosened it off slightly and locked it back off when I'd got to 31st Oct. Now it is 0-6 vertically but when set at 31st Oct not 31st Dec
I’m in the very beginning of the learning stage of astrophotography and I have yet to invest anything but time into the process. I found your video really helpful in ordering things in my mind. Very concise and well thought out. The production was excellent with no background distractions, very clear demonstrations and great photography. Nicely done.
Great review. Thanks. I’m thinking of getting this for the 2024 eclipse. I have a Nikon Z7 II and a Nikon 600 mm lens. I want to take a series of exposures ranging from 1/1000th to 1 second for HDR photography. I think I would need a leveling head on the tripod, right? Alignment would be during the day. What can you offer in advice? Would this be useful? I don’t want any clocking of images from one exposure to another. This is my main concern, not x and y translation. What hardware would I need other than the tripod, leveling head and tracker? Thanks, Paul
@@paulmanhart4481 I too, am getting into the realm of astrophotography due to the eclipse. My Equipment is not as nice. I have a Nikon N1 J5 as well as a D5600. I am thinking about using a long lens on the N1 and a wide angle on the 5600. (i’m going to take advantage of the crop sensor multiplier on the N1. I have a lens that adjusts out to 300 mm which is equivalent to an 810 mm on a full frame sensor. I am interested in daytime alignment practices.
I’ve had my Star Adventurer (non-WIFI) for 7 months now. Whilst I understand most of what you have included in this video I found the content regarding the date and time graduation circles particularly useful. Over time, I have developed an understanding of them but your coverage of how to use them is refreshingly good and very easy to understand. Probably THE best video I’ve watched so far. Thank you for sharing what is an excellent tutorial 🤝👍👍
Notes on Dithering & the SAM Console App =================================== Dithering Notes ------------------------- I got a few comments requesting more color on the 'Dithering' option in the app. Dithering is the process of moving the mount by a very small amount, in a random fashion, for each sub photo you take. Since hot pixels and any fixed pattern noise is static, it will show up at the exact same location on each frame. But because of dithering, the stars will show up at slightly different locations in those same frames. Thus when you end up stacking the frames and aligning the stars, the pattern noise will now be located in random portions of the stacks and can be removed by the stacking software. First just make sure you have the latest firmware for your Mount (i.e. later than 3.10) and that you have the latest SAM Console app. The dithering on the SA v2i is in the RA axis only, but will definitely be beneficial. You would of course have to use the cable to connect your camera to the SNAP port and let the SA control the exposures. If you wanted to dither in the declination axis, you could very slightly move the gear in that axis (with the fine tuning adjustment knob) every few frames. I had found this formula below from a post by Fred on the Star Gazers Lounge website: d = 35 x p / F Where : d is the dithering in arcmin, to enter in the SAM console app p is the pixel size of your camera's sensor, in µm F is the focal length of your lens in mm The above is to dither by 10 pixels. If you would like to adjust the amount of dither, you can apply a factor - for instance, if you would like to dither by 15 pixels (i.e. 1.5 times of 10 pixels), then simply multiply the result obtained above (i.e. multiply 'd'), by a factor of 1.5. It seems you might not be able to enter decimal numbers directly in the SAM console. To get past that, just enter 0 and press 'Done' - you will see 0.00 in the input box. Then just edit the figures and don't delete the decimal separator. Fred recommends saving a profile for each DSLR/ lens combination you use so that you don't need to calculate it again. SAM Console App Notes ---------------------------------------- One thing that I forgot to mention in the video, is that when the mount is switched to the 'App' mode, it will NOT start tracking UNTIL you hit 'Run' for the sequence (e.g. 'Astrophotography'). For some reason, Sky-Watcher has chosen NOT to let the mount track UNTIL you actually tap 'Run' on the top right - it will then begin the tracking. I thus suggest that after you frame the DSO, if you need additional time before you start taking the exposures, simply switch the mode dial on the mount to 'Sidereal' (or 'Solar', 'Lunar' as the case maybe) - that way the mount will begin tracking right away and continue to track (allowing the DSO to stay framed). Once you are ready to take the photos (i.e you have set focus manually along with the exposure etc.), you can then switch the mode dial on the mount to 'App', connect your smart device to it and then hit 'Run' to begin the shooting sequence. Miscellaneous Notes ---------------------------------- 1) Latitude Adjustment: When you have positioned Polaris in the correct position on the polar clock, you will be tightening the Latitude adjustment lever (on the left side of the wedge) and the Azimuth adjustment screws (on the rear of the wedge). Please note that over-tightening the Latitude adjustment lever can shift the alignment. What I suggest is that once you have Polaris in the reticle, tighten the Latitude adjustment lever, but don't over-tighten it (so turn it clockwise until you feel resistance and maybe turn a quarter turn more). You can then use the Latitude adjustment knob on the front to make any fine adjustments (at this point don't touch the lever anymore). Once you have Polaris in the correct position on the polar clock (per the SAM console app), tighten the Azimuth adjustment screws on the rear, by turning both the screws clockwise - at the same time. This will ensure that there is no play in the horizontal plane and the wedge does not move. 2) Android users: I have received feedback that the version of the PS Align Pro app in the Android App Store is not stable and crashes. You can try to download the "stable" version from Sky-watcher's website. The link is: skywatcher.com/download/software/star-adventurer/ If that link does not work, then there seems to be a new app in the Android store called Polar Clock that addresses a rotated reticle. Check it out and see if it works for you: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.astrotools.polarclock&hl=en_US&gl=US
One very important but disastrous thing i found last night during Dithering which u missed as well. Because of Dithering i lost ~50~70% frames with eggy or trailing stars. The reason i explain. Its my first time i did Dithering and found that out of 3~4 frames only 1 had round stars while i have shot many times without Dithering and accuracy was 100% upto 300mm for 120 sec. After reading about Dithering, i noticed that after Dithering its takes a lot of time to return to its normal tracking speed as it happens during guided tracking in ASI Air system. But in SAP2i app, there is no such control. I usually keep interval between photos 3 sec and last night i kept it 5 sec and still my 50~70% frames ruined. So, Dithering on SAP2i is just waste of time because we have to manually find out the time between frame by trial and error. If i had not done Dithering, i would have got 80min of totol exposure with perfect round stars, but now i have ended up with just 28 mins. (Weather was good, no strong wind, tripod dead center accurate; well balanced gears) Please explain something so that we can have some idea.
@@adityasoni6185 Hi Aditya - yes, you need to increase the Photo Interval time to allow for the mount to settle. Having said that, I have used 10 seconds for my mount and have had no issues for a 10 pixel dither. You could try 15 seconds or so (or 20) to start with and then lower it to see what the sweet spot is. I hadn't addressed dithering in this video, but I am just completing my Complete guide to the SA Console App - which I will upload in a. few hours. That has this information. LMK if you plan on going again tonight to try out dithering and what settings you used.
@@TheLightExplorer thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, no clear skies or if present, 95% above humidity. I will be looking forward to your new tutorial. Clear skies!
A great tutorial as I’m in the process of buying a star adventurer at the moment. I like how you went into depth on the areas and didn’t gloss over some parts like other tutorials I’ve seen. For me the best area was the checking of the re-alignment after framing your target...love that app, makes life very easy. Now subscribed and will check your other videos...Nicely presented....👍
Thanks much for your feedback Mike - appreciate it. Have fun with your new toy - I really like it. And you are getting it in time for the Milky Way season. 😀
I've watched several videos about getting this tracker set up, and this video is the best! It's a bit long, but covered the situations that were confusing me earlier today as I tried to get acquainted with this tracker, so the length was worth it. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Aloha Nikhil. Thank-you for your SW-SA tutorials. I've recently purchased the 2i Pro Package and appreciate your in-depth tutorial. I am a novice Milky Way photographer and looking to take the next step in achieving better quality star images. Mahalo for your time and effort in providing your tutorials. Aloha!
Aloha! Thank you so much for the kind words - I really appreciate it. You are going to have a lot of fun with this tracker and I am sure you will get some great images with the awesome Hawaii landscape. I recently uploaded a complete guide to using the Wi-Fi app, so do check that out if you plan to use the app. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have. Have a great week.
This is without doubt the best SA2i tutorial. I’ve had mine for a while and you have taught me a lot of good stuff. I also like the way you have embraced the app. So many other reviews are clearly too lazy to use it fully, and continue using unnecessary intervalometers which don’t offer dither and just add more cables to catch the wind. Can’t wait to see what you do next.
@@ThistleBeaksBirdCams although the tracker is tracking the stars during the exposure, dithering moves the subject of your image slightly between shots to ensure that hot pixels and other noise can be identified by your stacking software and removed.
@@AstroCloudGenerator interesting, thank you for the response. I'm still new to astrophotography and was considering getting the star adventurer. So inbetween shots does the camera take another image while it moves ? or is it just that as the next image is taken due to the camera being ever so slightly different from last time it has different noise/hot pixels?
@@ThistleBeaksBirdCams You set up the Star Adventurer to take a shot for a set period with a set interval. The SA sends a signal to the camera to take a shot and accurately tracks the stars however between shots it varies its speed very slightly to ensure that the subject moves slightly. If you are new to Astrophotography then a great place to learn is the Nebula Photos discord server. There are plenty of people only too happy to help you get started.
Really helpful tutorial. I just purchased my 2i a couple of months ago. I have two issues. For additional weight I purchased a longer screw for the washer at the end if the bar. With the longer screw i added up to 30 fender washers. Plenty of weight and they fit in the foam case (with a bit of foam removed) under the weight during transport. My second issue it the 2i does not stay tracking in APP mode when the shooting RUN sequence is finished. As a result, things quickly rotate out if view. Especially if you are using a 150-600 mm lens at 600 and have the camera on live view and digital magnification. I contacted sky watcher and they have a horrible work around by switching back and forth the tracker dial to sidereal and APP. It would be so much easier if they had the tracker rotating all of the time in APP mode. I have reached out to other UA-camrs who said they gave up on using the APP position and reverted back to their external intervalometer and staying in sidereal mode.
Hi Randy - those washers are a good idea for sure. The one thing to be careful about is that the longer the bar is (i.e. the further the weights are from the center point on that counterweight bar), the more the tracking errors you might find (keyword being "might"). I thus decided to get a second counter weight and can place the weight closer to the rotating point to alleviate some of those errors. However, if it is working for you, definitely leave it as is. I mentioned about the 'App' issue in the pinned comment (and am just finishing making a detailed tutorial on using the app as I got a lot of emails requesting that). I have been in contact with Sky-watcher multiple times asking them to resolve this - they only have to issue a firmware, whereby the tracking will not stop once the sequence is finished. For some reason, they are adamant on not correcting that. As a result (like you said), the tracking will stop once the sequence is over and the target will drift out of frame (especially at longer focal lengths). Finally, a lot of folks don't realize that any changes you make to the app, get downloaded to the corresponding mode on the mode dial. This is especially an issue if you have selected the number of photos in the app - so if you have chosen say 10 photos in the app for your sequence (for say Sidereal) then that number gets downloaded into the mode dial for Sidereal mode. The next time you use the Sidereal mode on the mode dial (i.e. not the app) and connect your SNAP cable to your camera, the mount will stop taking photos after the first 10 are taken. The default value of 120 seconds per photo will also be over-ridden by the shutter speed you had chosen. And finally, it appears, that the tracking will also stop once the total time for those 10 exposures has been completed. Hopefully, I can address these concerns with my forthcoming video on the app - don't want people getting discouraged as it is a fantastic mount (that even allows dithering), as long as you understand its limitations. Thanks much for your thoughtful comment.
@@TheLightExplorer the longer bolt is about 2", so it does not add much length. The fender washers are the same diameter as the weight. It's just enough weight to balance the 150-600. I did request SW to update the firmware to track in APP mode. Even add another line on the Astrophotography page in the console to have a user option. Like your mention, the support person said that's how it's supposed to be. Said I was the only person to complain. I did get them to commit to bring it up at a meeting.
Excellent guide. As a user of the StarAdventurer, I level my tripod beforehand. I purchased an inexpensive 2 inch diameter bullseye level which I use before adding the SA. It also helps with polar alignment in high latitudes if you point one of the legs of the tripod roughly to the North.That way, you have room to kneel when looking up into the polar scope. (dont forget to take the camera strap off as it waves about in a breeze, introducing shake.)
A really informative video! I like how much effort you put into creating it. It showed me that star tackers are way too complicated for what they cost. We live in 2022 and I don't want to spend 20-30 minutes building a setup. So you saved me from a huge misinvestment, thank you very much.
Thanks much for your feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video - hope you checked out the pinned comment about dithering (I forgot to include it in the video).
Thanks for sharing step by step guide to use Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i. This was very helpful for beginner like me to understand and learn how to use this tracker. Looking forward for more videos like this. All the very best!!!
Damn sure gets a like and a sub. Saved it for later so I can review it again. My mount arrives tomorrow. Thanks for the step by step on this one Nikhil, you did a fantastic job. John
Thank you so much for an extremely detailed and informative video. I just purchased a Star Adventurer 2i, and your careful explanations will definitely be helpful.
Thank you for such a well explained tutorial. I just bought a SA2i Pro Pack and have found your video helpful in setting things up as well as some items I need to get(lens collar and dovetail plate)to help balance.
Thanks much for your feedback and glad you enjoyed the video. I am just working on a video about using the SA Console App - hopefully you find that useful too. Have a great weekend.
I'm probably going to end up watching this video 40 times now haha. Although maybe not because you did such a great job explaining everything. Maybe it wont take me too long to get it figured out, we'll see! Thanks for this!
I appreciate the in-depth demonstration. I recently obtained my Sky-Watcher, and was curious how I was supposed to be able to look off in other directions after aligning the mount. I don't currently own a ball-mount, but have ordered a couple since I do plan eventually on either mounting two cameras, or a camera and a scope.
@@TheLightExplorer Please do create video on auto guider like ZWOASI120MM mini. The way you explain its excellent and you dont leave any details out which make tutorial like these easy to learn
It definitely is on my list of videos to create. I just need to ensure I have all the steps noted down. Meanwhile, do check out Peter Zelinka's video on auto-guiding the SA. :-)
I am just starting out with astrophotography. My wife and I have a DSLR camera, but wanted to know do we need any special filters or different lens, etc...for taking photographs of DSO's? Also, would you happen to have a list of ALL the items you show in the video that I can start to research into purchasing. The goal is to be familiar and comfortable with this by the time I retire in a few years time so that I can truly enjoy the product of the process when the time comes. Thank you so much in advance.
Hi Riaan - thanks for your feedback. I have used it with my Sigma 150-600 lens and it works well. You will need an additional counter-weight to balance it and your Polar Alignment will have to be spot on (especially at higher focal lengths).
Very Well done video. Love the explanation clarity and depth of knowledge. Look forward to seeing more. Only suggestion… please lose the sunglasses. They make it hard to identify with you as a person! Otherwise… really great. Thank-you for the time you took to make the video.
Fantastic video, really informative. I've been watching loads of videos whilst waiting for mine to arrive. I'll definitely be watching again when I finally get it. Thanks!
Thank you for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed it. I have two useful ones coming up - one on how to use the SAM Console App (all the features and quirks) and another with some useful tips on using the Star Adventurer. Have a great weekend! 😀
Great video, thanks a lot! You mentioned about locating Polaris during dusk or night but how do we do during day? My goal here is to track the Sun and I do not want to pre-setup equipment a night before, so looking to see if there is way to setup during the day.
Hi Ron. Yes, you would need to Polar Align for the Eclipse. You can do it at dawn then day of, or you can do a rough PA during the day using your phone. Just get an app that shows True North and then place the phone flush with the Mini and point to True North (after adjusting for latitude).
Thank you for your comment. You can use a ball-head, but there is the issue with stability. The mount is not a very precise device and so you might find stability issues (leading to unsharp photos) if you use the ballhead in conjunction with the mount. Having said that, if you are using wide focal lengths like 14mm or 20mm etc, then I don't think you will really have an issue using a ballhead with the mount. The issue become more apparent when using longer focal lengths (over 150mm).
Thanks for your feedback Paul. Yes, this tracker excels for Milky Way astrophotography and allows you to take long subs (I have taken some around 6 minutes long with no trailing and pin point sharp stars). Here are some of my photos of the MW with this tracker: 1) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-94xmsvd/A 2) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-hs9WDGz/A 3) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-33fQTmj/A 4) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-f78BFM4/A I have another video that shows how you can blend a foreground and the Milky Way to get cool shots. So do check that out if interested (and once you get your tracker). Have fun. :-)
An excellent step by step video, Nikhil. Thank you for being precise with your explanations. My GTi will be arriving by September 8th. Like you I am a Nikon shooter. Which camera body and long lens are you mounting in this tutorial? Do you have a go to lens(es) for DSO when using the SA? Thank you.
Hi Miguel. Glad you liked the video. I'm using the Nikon D850 and the Nikon 70-200 for this tutorial. Besides this lens, I use the Nikon 14-24 for all my landscape astro imaging.
@@TheLightExplorer Ah the D850 and the 70-200mm, nice pairing. Lens wise I am leaning towards the Sigma 120-300mm, and maybe the Z camera. The suggestion you gave for the SNap cord; is it a 2.5mm N1 10-pin cord?
Been having so much trouble finding the motivation to set up and use my skywatcher because all the short videos I watched never really explained it great. Decided to just sit down and finally watch this long one, and man was it worth you. You explained it so well, to the point I almost have no questions at all and I’m finally confident using it. Thank you so much!
As someone so old that I actually tried to photograph Halley’s comet with tripod-mounted film SLR in 1986, I find this sort of tech absolutely magical.
Thank you. Your video saved me a great deal of aggravation and frustration after reading the instruction manual which was infuriating at best. I understood photography, but astrophotography is all together more complicated particularly with the written instructions included with this. This is a fantastic, informative video and a must watch for anyone who just purchased a Sky-Watcher Sky Adventurer 2i.
Hi Scott. Thanks so much for your feedback. Glad you found the video useful. Hope you get some awesome images this winter. I am looking forward to heading to Utah in November to capture Andromeda and my favorite, Orion.
Hello Nikhil, I am just venturing into astrophotography and your channel has been such a tremendous help in my journey, and I am sure will continue to do so. My compliments and thanks for your UA-cam channel!
Excellent tutorial, I just bought the SA2i and all the info you provided is very, very useful! I have one question though…regarding the alignment of the reticle. You mentioned to align on Oct31st position (in between 10 and 11). Why October 31st? I mean, should we align on the actual date we are or is it always Oct 31st? It may seem a silly question, but I’m really new to the subject! Thanks a lot in advance!
Excellent video. Thank you for helping us newbies out. Quick question: do you need to polar align to do daytime time lapse and how do you do it without having Polaris to align with?
Hi Brian. Thanks much for the feedback. When you say daytime time lapse, are you talking about tracking the sun or just a time lapse of the landscape etc.? If for the landscape, then you do not need to polar align. If you are asking about tracking the sun, then yes, you will need to polar align. You can do this by simply pointing the mount to True North (not Magnetic North) - your iPhone and other smartphones can show where True North is. If you don't have that feature on your phone, just get a compass and point to the Magnetic North and then check any app (online or on your phone) to see how many degrees the True North is offset from the Magnetic North and make the adjustment. The idea is that your SA should be pointing towards the True North. One done, then adjust the latitude adjustment knob for your current latitude. This should approximately point the Star Adventurer towards the NCP - enough to get sharp shots with solar tracking. You can also check out skyandtelescope.org/observing/daylight-polar-alignment/
Great tutorial!! This helps me with everything i didn’t know to do. Can you tell me what typical Dithering time lengths should be for astrophotography and do they depend on exposure lengths ?? Thanks again. Frank.
Hi Frank. First just make sure you have the latest firmware for your Mount (i.e. later than 3.10) and that you have the latest SAM Console app. The dithering on the SA v2i is in the RA axis only, but will definitely be beneficial. You would of course have to use the cable to connect your camera to the SNAP port and let the SA control the exposures. If you wanted to dither in the declination axis, you could very slightly move the gear in that axis (with the fine tuning adjustment knob) every few frames. I had found this formula below from a post by Fred on the Star Gazers Lounge website: d = 35 x p / F Where : d is the dithering in arcmin, to enter in the SAM console app p is the pixel size, in µm F is the focal length of your lens in mm It seems you might not be able to enter decimal numbers directly in the SAM console. To get past that, just enter 0 and press 'Done' - you will see 0.00 in the input box. Then just edit the figures and don't delete the decimal separator. Fred recommends saving a profile for each DSLR/ lens combination you use so that you don't need to calculate it again.
I rarely comment on videos, but this is a fantastic introduction. I recently bought a Star Adventurer and I appreciate the effort and time you invested in making this guide. Two thumbs up!
Thanks so much for your feedback Cristopher - glad you liked the content and found it helpful.
@@TheLightExplorer Same here! This video was fantastic. I really appreciate all the time and effort that went into this
Very best you tube tutorial on the star adventure 2i pro out there! Thanks so much for your effort to cover every detail. The rate and tone of your speaking voice was perfect. (Most talk way too fast). Clear skies!!
@thelightexplorer just found your channel, what a fantasising video! 👏🏼
Thank you. So glad you found it useful.
The Sky Watcher people should pay you for this. 😁 Excellent tutorial.
Thanks so much for your kind words. Glad you found the tutorial helpful.
This is by far the best video tutorial on the subject!! Thank you! I’ve spotted 3 errors on my procedure, next night out I’ll try again doing right!
Thanks Sérgio - let us know how it goes and if you have any questions.
This is by far the most complete and helpful video on the SW Star Adventurer. Fantastic job. Thanks a lot.❤
This was totally great - exactly what I needed to get started with my new Star Adventurer 2i Pro. Expertly put together at exactly the right level of pace and detail. I will certainly feel very confident now setting this all up - soon as I can get a clear night that is - which here in UK this year has been not brilliant. Will watch your other videos too for sure.
Glad it was helpful!
I echo all the other complementary comments and words of praise.
In the world of pro cycling there's a word (Chapeau) used to express respect to a personality encountered for their knowleadge and expertise. Chapeau is a French term signifying to tip one's hat in respect.
Chapeau to you and thanks!
Unbelievably well presented and explained. Thank You for this well thought out and beautiful video! It’s so much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Getting into the game a bit late I guess? I just bought the 2i Pro and tried to get the SA Console App, however Google Play says that software was made for an older version of Android. It wouldn't let me install the app. However, I went to the play store on my PC and told it to install the app on my phone. For some reason, that actually worked. Anyway, absolutely amazing tutorial. Very helpful! Thank you!
Awesome that it worked out for you. Thanks for that information.
Great Tutorial. You’re very detailed on every step including the 3 degree increments on the Star Tracker. You’re the first one who included that information. Thank you.
Thank you Anthony - glad it was helpful!
5 stars for this video presentation .
Best explanation , precise , organized and systematic.
Well done. *****
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very impressive tutorial! I can’t believe you put in all this work and released it for free on UA-cam. You’ve gained a new sub today!
I’m an old hat at photography, but brand new to Astro. Looking forward to learning much more from you! Thanks for putting in the time and effort! Hopefully I can pay it forward someday.
Thanks much for your kind words and glad you enjoyed the video. It is rewarding enough to hear that the videos help others. Please don't forget to check out the pinned comment with the values to be used for dithering - I unfortunately forget to include that in the video (even though I had recorded the explanation).
Awesome video!!! I appreciate all the detail. I would like to see how you go about framing your shots and making sure you are getting what you are intending to.
Thanks Jeff and glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the suggestion for a future video. I can definitely work on creating another video with that in mind.
I don't even own a tracker yet and I just watched this whole video! Super informative and easy to follow - hopefully I'll be able to get one soon to put this knowledge to use!
So glad you found the video enjoyable. Hopefully you can get a tracker soon. They are so much fun to use.
Amazing detailed tutorial. Thank you very much for the time and effort.
Thanks much for your kind words. It totally makes it worth spending those long hours creating these kind of videos.
Thank you so much for this incredible work! You answer every question and potential pitfall. Exactly the way I needed to learn this mount.
When aligning the date date scale with zero, you used Oct 31st and placed the mark halfway between 10 and 11 on zero. Question #1: Is the day you shot the video Oct 31st? If so, Question #2: The alignment mark is halfway between 10 and 11, shouldn't that be Oct 15th? Or am I confused???
Hi James. Answer #1: No, I did not shoot the video on Oct 31st. You just have to set the date to Oct 31st on the scale regardless of the date you are using it on. It is just the way it has been constructed. Answer #2: The half-way mark is half-way between Oct 1st and Nov 30th - hence it is Oct 31st. Please let me know if you have any other questions. FYI, I just posted a complete guide to using the Wi-Fi app (the SA Console App). So do check that out if you plan to use the App.
@@TheLightExplorer thank you for your prompt reply-much appreciated sir.
I've done this and it definitely isn't sitting with 0 at the top and 6 at the bottom. The only way I can get the reticle with 0 at the top and 6 at the bottom is to set it to 31st December
EDIT: I've fixed this, I noticed I couldn't turn the dials separately, I located a small screw on the underside and loosened it off slightly and locked it back off when I'd got to 31st Oct. Now it is 0-6 vertically but when set at 31st Oct not 31st Dec
Amazing tutorial, the best I have ever seen! Thank you for showing newbies like me the way to set this up properly.
You're very welcome! So glad you liked it.
I’m in the very beginning of the learning stage of astrophotography and I have yet to invest anything but time into the process. I found your video really helpful in ordering things in my mind. Very concise and well thought out. The production was excellent with no background distractions, very clear demonstrations and great photography. Nicely done.
Thanks much for the feedback John. You will really enjoy this crazy journey learning astrophotography.
Great review. Thanks.
I’m thinking of getting this for the 2024 eclipse. I have a Nikon Z7 II and a Nikon 600 mm lens. I want to take a series of exposures ranging from 1/1000th to 1 second for HDR photography. I think I would need a leveling head on the tripod, right?
Alignment would be during the day.
What can you offer in advice?
Would this be useful? I don’t want any clocking of images from one exposure to another. This is my main concern, not x and y translation.
What hardware would I need other than the tripod, leveling head and tracker?
Thanks,
Paul
@@paulmanhart4481 I too, am getting into the realm of astrophotography due to the eclipse. My Equipment is not as nice. I have a Nikon N1 J5 as well as a D5600. I am thinking about using a long lens on the N1 and a wide angle on the 5600. (i’m going to take advantage of the crop sensor multiplier on the N1. I have a lens that adjusts out to 300 mm which is equivalent to an 810 mm on a full frame sensor. I am interested in daytime alignment practices.
I’ve had my Star Adventurer (non-WIFI) for 7 months now. Whilst I understand most of what you have included in this video I found the content regarding the date and time graduation circles particularly useful. Over time, I have developed an understanding of them but your coverage of how to use them is refreshingly good and very easy to understand. Probably THE best video I’ve watched so far. Thank you for sharing what is an excellent tutorial 🤝👍👍
Thank you for your feedback - so glad it was helpful.
Notes on Dithering & the SAM Console App
===================================
Dithering Notes
-------------------------
I got a few comments requesting more color on the 'Dithering' option in the app. Dithering is the process of moving the mount by a very small amount, in a random fashion, for each sub photo you take. Since hot pixels and any fixed pattern noise is static, it will show up at the exact same location on each frame. But because of dithering, the stars will show up at slightly different locations in those same frames. Thus when you end up stacking the frames and aligning the stars, the pattern noise will now be located in random portions of the stacks and can be removed by the stacking software.
First just make sure you have the latest firmware for your Mount (i.e. later than 3.10) and that you have the latest SAM Console app. The dithering on the SA v2i is in the RA axis only, but will definitely be beneficial. You would of course have to use the cable to connect your camera to the SNAP port and let the SA control the exposures. If you wanted to dither in the declination axis, you could very slightly move the gear in that axis (with the fine tuning adjustment knob) every few frames. I had found this formula below from a post by Fred on the Star Gazers Lounge website:
d = 35 x p / F
Where :
d is the dithering in arcmin, to enter in the SAM console app
p is the pixel size of your camera's sensor, in µm
F is the focal length of your lens in mm
The above is to dither by 10 pixels. If you would like to adjust the amount of dither, you can apply a factor - for instance, if you would like to dither by 15 pixels (i.e. 1.5 times of 10 pixels), then simply multiply the result obtained above (i.e. multiply 'd'), by a factor of 1.5.
It seems you might not be able to enter decimal numbers directly in the SAM console. To get past that, just enter 0 and press 'Done' - you will see 0.00 in the input box. Then just edit the figures and don't delete the decimal separator.
Fred recommends saving a profile for each DSLR/ lens combination you use so that you don't need to calculate it again.
SAM Console App Notes
----------------------------------------
One thing that I forgot to mention in the video, is that when the mount is switched to the 'App' mode, it will NOT start tracking UNTIL you hit 'Run' for the sequence (e.g. 'Astrophotography'). For some reason, Sky-Watcher has chosen NOT to let the mount track UNTIL you actually tap 'Run' on the top right - it will then begin the tracking. I thus suggest that after you frame the DSO, if you need additional time before you start taking the exposures, simply switch the mode dial on the mount to 'Sidereal' (or 'Solar', 'Lunar' as the case maybe) - that way the mount will begin tracking right away and continue to track (allowing the DSO to stay framed). Once you are ready to take the photos (i.e you have set focus manually along with the exposure etc.), you can then switch the mode dial on the mount to 'App', connect your smart device to it and then hit 'Run' to begin the shooting sequence.
Miscellaneous Notes
----------------------------------
1) Latitude Adjustment: When you have positioned Polaris in the correct position on the polar clock, you will be tightening the Latitude adjustment lever (on the left side of the wedge) and the Azimuth adjustment screws (on the rear of the wedge). Please note that over-tightening the Latitude adjustment lever can shift the alignment. What I suggest is that once you have Polaris in the reticle, tighten the Latitude adjustment lever, but don't over-tighten it (so turn it clockwise until you feel resistance and maybe turn a quarter turn more). You can then use the Latitude adjustment knob on the front to make any fine adjustments (at this point don't touch the lever anymore). Once you have Polaris in the correct position on the polar clock (per the SAM console app), tighten the Azimuth adjustment screws on the rear, by turning both the screws clockwise - at the same time. This will ensure that there is no play in the horizontal plane and the wedge does not move.
2) Android users: I have received feedback that the version of the PS Align Pro app in the Android App Store is not stable and crashes. You can try to download the "stable" version from Sky-watcher's website. The link is: skywatcher.com/download/software/star-adventurer/
If that link does not work, then there seems to be a new app in the Android store called Polar Clock that addresses a rotated reticle. Check it out and see if it works for you:
play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.astrotools.polarclock&hl=en_US&gl=US
One very important but disastrous thing i found last night during Dithering which u missed as well. Because of Dithering i lost ~50~70% frames with eggy or trailing stars. The reason i explain. Its my first time i did Dithering and found that out of 3~4 frames only 1 had round stars while i have shot many times without Dithering and accuracy was 100% upto 300mm for 120 sec. After reading about Dithering, i noticed that after Dithering its takes a lot of time to return to its normal tracking speed as it happens during guided tracking in ASI Air system. But in SAP2i app, there is no such control. I usually keep interval between photos 3 sec and last night i kept it 5 sec and still my 50~70% frames ruined. So, Dithering on SAP2i is just waste of time because we have to manually find out the time between frame by trial and error. If i had not done Dithering, i would have got 80min of totol exposure with perfect round stars, but now i have ended up with just 28 mins.
(Weather was good, no strong wind, tripod dead center accurate; well balanced gears)
Please explain something so that we can have some idea.
@@adityasoni6185 Hi Aditya - yes, you need to increase the Photo Interval time to allow for the mount to settle. Having said that, I have used 10 seconds for my mount and have had no issues for a 10 pixel dither. You could try 15 seconds or so (or 20) to start with and then lower it to see what the sweet spot is. I hadn't addressed dithering in this video, but I am just completing my Complete guide to the SA Console App - which I will upload in a. few hours. That has this information. LMK if you plan on going again tonight to try out dithering and what settings you used.
@@TheLightExplorer thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, no clear skies or if present, 95% above humidity. I will be looking forward to your new tutorial. Clear skies!
@@adityasoni6185 Thanks Aditya - that tutorial on the SA Console app is up now. You can watch it at ua-cam.com/video/JW1HgZb7qAU/v-deo.html
I am saving this until I get my watcher, can't recommend enough how this tutorial is valuable and easy to understand. Have a great day, Sir!
Thanks, you too!
A great tutorial as I’m in the process of buying a star adventurer at the moment. I like how you went into depth on the areas and didn’t gloss over some parts like other tutorials I’ve seen. For me the best area was the checking of the re-alignment after framing your target...love that app, makes life very easy. Now subscribed and will check your other videos...Nicely presented....👍
Thanks much for your feedback Mike - appreciate it. Have fun with your new toy - I really like it. And you are getting it in time for the Milky Way season. 😀
I've watched several videos about getting this tracker set up, and this video is the best! It's a bit long, but covered the situations that were confusing me earlier today as I tried to get acquainted with this tracker, so the length was worth it. Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Thank you for making such a well thought out and clear to understand tutorial on the Star Adventurer. Helped me immensely.
You're very welcome! So glad you found it useful.
First channel to see point out the importance and solution to balancing in the declination axis. Thank you
Thank you so much for the feedback Jim. Appreciate it.
I just bought a star adventurer and this video is superb . It explains all the little tricks to get you going. Many thanks.
Glad you liked the video Russell.
I've learned so much from your video! Great job!
Awesome! Thank you!
Aloha Nikhil. Thank-you for your SW-SA tutorials. I've recently purchased the 2i Pro Package and appreciate your in-depth tutorial. I am a novice Milky Way photographer and looking to take the next step in achieving better quality star images. Mahalo for your time and effort in providing your tutorials. Aloha!
Aloha! Thank you so much for the kind words - I really appreciate it. You are going to have a lot of fun with this tracker and I am sure you will get some great images with the awesome Hawaii landscape. I recently uploaded a complete guide to using the Wi-Fi app, so do check that out if you plan to use the app. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have. Have a great week.
This is without doubt the best SA2i tutorial. I’ve had mine for a while and you have taught me a lot of good stuff. I also like the way you have embraced the app. So many other reviews are clearly too lazy to use it fully, and continue using unnecessary intervalometers which don’t offer dither and just add more cables to catch the wind.
Can’t wait to see what you do next.
Thanks much for your feedback Richard. So glad you liked the video and found it useful.
what does dithering do?
@@ThistleBeaksBirdCams although the tracker is tracking the stars during the exposure, dithering moves the subject of your image slightly between shots to ensure that hot pixels and other noise can be identified by your stacking software and removed.
@@AstroCloudGenerator interesting, thank you for the response. I'm still new to astrophotography and was considering getting the star adventurer. So inbetween shots does the camera take another image while it moves ? or is it just that as the next image is taken due to the camera being ever so slightly different from last time it has different noise/hot pixels?
@@ThistleBeaksBirdCams You set up the Star Adventurer to take a shot for a set period with a set interval. The SA sends a signal to the camera to take a shot and accurately tracks the stars however between shots it varies its speed very slightly to ensure that the subject moves slightly. If you are new to Astrophotography then a great place to learn is the Nebula Photos discord server. There are plenty of people only too happy to help you get started.
Спасибо! Самое полное и понятное видео о настройке и использовании монтировки👍
Рад, что вам понравилось. Спасибо за просмотр.
SUPER video, many thnxs for the cristalclear explanation, you have an enthusiastic follower 😀
Awesome, thank you! So glad you liked it.
This is the best tutorial out there. It should be an official tutorial
Glad you found it useful.
Really helpful tutorial. I just purchased my 2i a couple of months ago. I have two issues.
For additional weight I purchased a longer screw for the washer at the end if the bar. With the longer screw i added up to 30 fender washers. Plenty of weight and they fit in the foam case (with a bit of foam removed) under the weight during transport.
My second issue it the 2i does not stay tracking in APP mode when the shooting RUN sequence is finished. As a result, things quickly rotate out if view. Especially if you are using a 150-600 mm lens at 600 and have the camera on live view and digital magnification.
I contacted sky watcher and they have a horrible work around by switching back and forth the tracker dial to sidereal and APP. It would be so much easier if they had the tracker rotating all of the time in APP mode.
I have reached out to other UA-camrs who said they gave up on using the APP position and reverted back to their external intervalometer and staying in sidereal mode.
Hi Randy - those washers are a good idea for sure. The one thing to be careful about is that the longer the bar is (i.e. the further the weights are from the center point on that counterweight bar), the more the tracking errors you might find (keyword being "might"). I thus decided to get a second counter weight and can place the weight closer to the rotating point to alleviate some of those errors. However, if it is working for you, definitely leave it as is.
I mentioned about the 'App' issue in the pinned comment (and am just finishing making a detailed tutorial on using the app as I got a lot of emails requesting that). I have been in contact with Sky-watcher multiple times asking them to resolve this - they only have to issue a firmware, whereby the tracking will not stop once the sequence is finished. For some reason, they are adamant on not correcting that. As a result (like you said), the tracking will stop once the sequence is over and the target will drift out of frame (especially at longer focal lengths).
Finally, a lot of folks don't realize that any changes you make to the app, get downloaded to the corresponding mode on the mode dial. This is especially an issue if you have selected the number of photos in the app - so if you have chosen say 10 photos in the app for your sequence (for say Sidereal) then that number gets downloaded into the mode dial for Sidereal mode. The next time you use the Sidereal mode on the mode dial (i.e. not the app) and connect your SNAP cable to your camera, the mount will stop taking photos after the first 10 are taken. The default value of 120 seconds per photo will also be over-ridden by the shutter speed you had chosen. And finally, it appears, that the tracking will also stop once the total time for those 10 exposures has been completed.
Hopefully, I can address these concerns with my forthcoming video on the app - don't want people getting discouraged as it is a fantastic mount (that even allows dithering), as long as you understand its limitations.
Thanks much for your thoughtful comment.
@@TheLightExplorer the longer bolt is about 2", so it does not add much length. The fender washers are the same diameter as the weight. It's just enough weight to balance the 150-600.
I did request SW to update the firmware to track in APP mode. Even add another line on the Astrophotography page in the console to have a user option. Like your mention, the support person said that's how it's supposed to be. Said I was the only person to complain. I did get them to commit to bring it up at a meeting.
Excellent guide. As a user of the StarAdventurer, I level my tripod beforehand. I purchased an inexpensive 2 inch diameter bullseye level which I use before adding the SA. It also helps with polar alignment in high latitudes if you point one of the legs of the tripod roughly to the North.That way, you have room to kneel when looking up into the polar scope. (dont forget to take the camera strap off as it waves about in a breeze, introducing shake.)
The bullseye level sounds interesting. I just use a Leofoto leveling base as it saves me so much time.
I have been using mine for over a year now and still learned something new, thank you! Great Video!
Thank you for your kind words.
Perfect! Thank you for sorting out all of my questions. I appreciate the detail and your approach. Clear Skies!
Awesome! Glad you found the video useful. Clear skies to you too.
Thanks, today I started to get familiar with the Star Adventurer 2i and this is by far the best video I've seen about it.
Congratulations
Jose Maria
Thanks much for your feedback.
Great tutorial, I forgot about changing to the mount wifi(silly me). Also I did not know about the clock dial settings.
Hi Thomas. So glad you found the video useful.
Fantastic tutorial! Love it. You give so many details that are missed out in the manual or are not well explained. Thank you so much for doing this!
Awesome video waiting on Explorer 2i to deliver!
Man, you're my hero, you saved me tons of hours figuring out the way to adjust this correctly
So glad you found it useful.
A really informative video! I like how much effort you put into creating it. It showed me that star tackers are way too complicated for what they cost. We live in 2022 and I don't want to spend 20-30 minutes building a setup. So you saved me from a huge misinvestment, thank you very much.
Once you've done it a few times it definitely won't take that long, maybe like 5-10 minutes
Geez can’t get better than this. Planning to get this tracker next month and this video is very helpful. Thanks heaps from Auckland, NZ. Sir sir.
Thanks Prashant. Glad you found the video useful. 👍
By far, thee-best tutorial. Well spoken and very thorough. Well done my friend!
Thank you for your feedback.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I really appreciate your thorough demonstration on how this works. You did a great job!
Thanks much for your feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video - hope you checked out the pinned comment about dithering (I forgot to include it in the video).
Thanks for sharing step by step guide to use Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i. This was very helpful for beginner like me to understand and learn how to use this tracker. Looking forward for more videos like this. All the very best!!!
You're very welcome Nachiket! Glad it was helpful.
Damn sure gets a like and a sub. Saved it for later so I can review it again. My mount arrives tomorrow. Thanks for the step by step on this one Nikhil, you did a fantastic job. John
Thank you so much for your feedback. So glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful.
This is great! Thank you for your guide. I will be going out this weekend for a test run!
Hi Mike - thanks for watching and good luck this weekend.
Очень хорошо все объяснил. Все стало понятно. Спасибо, очень подробно.
Спасибо. Рад, что вам понравилось.
Thank you so much for an extremely detailed and informative video. I just purchased a Star Adventurer 2i, and your careful explanations will definitely be helpful.
Thank you for such a well explained tutorial. I just bought a SA2i Pro Pack and have found your video helpful in setting things up as well as some items I need to get(lens collar and dovetail plate)to help balance.
Thanks much for your feedback and glad you enjoyed the video. I am just working on a video about using the SA Console App - hopefully you find that useful too. Have a great weekend.
Bro dope video. It definitely helped me understand mine better. I haven't used it yet because it's been cold out 😅
Thanks Alvin. Glad it was helpful. Hope you get to use it soon.
I'm probably going to end up watching this video 40 times now haha. Although maybe not because you did such a great job explaining everything. Maybe it wont take me too long to get it figured out, we'll see! Thanks for this!
Absolutely awesome walkthrough for this equipment as well as links to additional equipment. I can't wait to try this out
Thanks for this complete and excellent tutorial!
You're very welcome!
I appreciate the in-depth demonstration. I recently obtained my Sky-Watcher, and was curious how I was supposed to be able to look off in other directions after aligning the mount. I don't currently own a ball-mount, but have ordered a couple since I do plan eventually on either mounting two cameras, or a camera and a scope.
Awesome - hope you put that mount to good use. Are you planning on shooting the Annular eclipse (if you are located near its path) in October?
@@TheLightExplorerno, but I am making plans for the eclipse that will pass over the USA in April, 2024.
Thank you sooooooooooooooo much for this tutorial. Please continue to upload.
Thank you so much for your lovely feedback.
@@TheLightExplorer Please do create video on auto guider like ZWOASI120MM mini. The way you explain its excellent and you dont leave any details out which make tutorial like these easy to learn
It definitely is on my list of videos to create. I just need to ensure I have all the steps noted down. Meanwhile, do check out Peter Zelinka's video on auto-guiding the SA. :-)
I watched it all. Very thorough. 🎯
Thanks much for your feedback.
Wow amazing video! Skywatcher should pay you for this. New subscriber.
Thank you for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed it.
Amazing video and tutorial....thank you for the information and I look forward to more.
I am just starting out with astrophotography. My wife and I have a DSLR camera, but wanted to know do we need any special filters or different lens, etc...for taking photographs of DSO's? Also, would you happen to have a list of ALL the items you show in the video that I can start to research into purchasing. The goal is to be familiar and comfortable with this by the time I retire in a few years time so that I can truly enjoy the product of the process when the time comes. Thank you so much in advance.
Yo, incredible guide as I've never seen. Ty so much
Thank you - glad you liked the video and found it useful.
Very clear and well constructed video guide. Well done!
This is such a great video, so easy to follow. Thank you for taking the time!
Thank you so much for the quality of your video. This is cristal clear 👌 and a great tutorial.
Thanks again.
Great video, so much info and detail, thanks so much.
Hi Riaan - thanks for your feedback. I have used it with my Sigma 150-600 lens and it works well. You will need an additional counter-weight to balance it and your Polar Alignment will have to be spot on (especially at higher focal lengths).
Thank you for this video it was very helpful, lots of good information and tips!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliant Video, much appreciated, have learnt a lot
Glad you enjoyed it Pete.
Superb review ! hats off to your efforts. Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you so much for this!
Very Well done video. Love the explanation clarity and depth of knowledge. Look forward to seeing more. Only suggestion… please lose the sunglasses. They make it hard to identify with you as a person! Otherwise… really great. Thank-you for the time you took to make the video.
Glad you enjoyed it and will take note of your comments about the glasses. Thanks much!
Thanks so much for this great tutorial, best one I have seen for the Star Adventurer!
You're very welcome!
Fantastic tutorial. Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Best video on the subject. Really helpful, thanks for your work!!
You're very welcome!
Fantastic video, really informative. I've been watching loads of videos whilst waiting for mine to arrive. I'll definitely be watching again when I finally get it.
Thanks!
Thanks much. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great video I am new to astro photography and your videos are very helpful thank you!!👏👏🙂
Thank you for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed it. I have two useful ones coming up - one on how to use the SAM Console App (all the features and quirks) and another with some useful tips on using the Star Adventurer. Have a great weekend! 😀
So amazingly helpful
Thank you. Glad you found it useful.
What an exceptionable video!
Thanks so so much for this.
Thank you too! Glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent video! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Great video, thanks a lot! You mentioned about locating Polaris during dusk or night but how do we do during day? My goal here is to track the Sun and I do not want to pre-setup equipment a night before, so looking to see if there is way to setup during the day.
Hi Ron. Yes, you would need to Polar Align for the Eclipse. You can do it at dawn then day of, or you can do a rough PA during the day using your phone. Just get an app that shows True North and then place the phone flush with the Mini and point to True North (after adjusting for latitude).
@@TheLightExplorer Thank you for the tip!
Fantastic work. Thanks a lot :)
Many thanks!
Great tutorial!
Thank you! Glad you liked it. Cheers!
This is a dumb question but the clutch ring on the mount has to be "open" to allow free rotation when shooting, not closed, right?
No. It needs to be hand tight. The linkage is such that it will rotate freely.
excellent all inclusive video
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for this awesome video! However, one question; why wouldn't i use a ballhead in combination with the long dovetail plate?
Thank you for your comment. You can use a ball-head, but there is the issue with stability. The mount is not a very precise device and so you might find stability issues (leading to unsharp photos) if you use the ballhead in conjunction with the mount. Having said that, if you are using wide focal lengths like 14mm or 20mm etc, then I don't think you will really have an issue using a ballhead with the mount. The issue become more apparent when using longer focal lengths (over 150mm).
Congrats for such a informative video!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful!
Superb video, liked and subscribed. I am considering buying this exact tracker next week, would you recommend it for milky way astrophotography?
Thanks for your feedback Paul. Yes, this tracker excels for Milky Way astrophotography and allows you to take long subs (I have taken some around 6 minutes long with no trailing and pin point sharp stars). Here are some of my photos of the MW with this tracker:
1) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-94xmsvd/A
2) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-hs9WDGz/A
3) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-33fQTmj/A
4) www.nikhilshahi.com/Landscapes/i-f78BFM4/A
I have another video that shows how you can blend a foreground and the Milky Way to get cool shots. So do check that out if interested (and once you get your tracker). Have fun. :-)
@@TheLightExplorer thank you. your photos are incredible! Do you use social media at all to follow your work?
Thank you for great tutorial!
An excellent step by step video, Nikhil. Thank you for being precise with your explanations. My GTi will be arriving by September 8th. Like you I am a Nikon shooter. Which camera body and long lens are you mounting in this tutorial? Do you have a go to lens(es) for DSO when using the SA?
Thank you.
Hi Miguel. Glad you liked the video. I'm using the Nikon D850 and the Nikon 70-200 for this tutorial. Besides this lens, I use the Nikon 14-24 for all my landscape astro imaging.
@@TheLightExplorer Ah the D850 and the 70-200mm, nice pairing. Lens wise I am leaning towards the Sigma 120-300mm, and maybe the Z camera. The suggestion you gave for the SNap cord; is it a 2.5mm N1 10-pin cord?
That's one heavy duty ball head. Wow. Great tutorial
Very helpful video. Thanks buddy 👍
My pleasure! Glad it was useful.
Been having so much trouble finding the motivation to set up and use my skywatcher because all the short videos I watched never really explained it great. Decided to just sit down and finally watch this long one, and man was it worth you.
You explained it so well, to the point I almost have no questions at all and I’m finally confident using it.
Thank you so much!
As someone so old that I actually tried to photograph Halley’s comet with tripod-mounted film SLR in 1986, I find this sort of tech absolutely magical.
Thank you. Your video saved me a great deal of aggravation and frustration after reading the instruction manual which was infuriating at best. I understood photography, but astrophotography is all together more complicated particularly with the written instructions included with this. This is a fantastic, informative video and a must watch for anyone who just purchased a Sky-Watcher Sky Adventurer 2i.
Hi Scott. Thanks so much for your feedback. Glad you found the video useful. Hope you get some awesome images this winter. I am looking forward to heading to Utah in November to capture Andromeda and my favorite, Orion.
This is pure gold. Thanks a lot!
Hello Nikhil, I am just venturing into astrophotography and your channel has been such a tremendous help in my journey, and I am sure will continue to do so. My compliments and thanks for your UA-cam channel!
Thanks so much for your feedback Raj. Wishing you lots of fun on this wonderful photographic journey!
Thank you!! Great video! 👍👍👍
Glad you liked it!
Excellent tutorial, I just bought the SA2i and all the info you provided is very, very useful! I have one question though…regarding the alignment of the reticle. You mentioned to align on Oct31st position (in between 10 and 11). Why October 31st? I mean, should we align on the actual date we are or is it always Oct 31st? It may seem a silly question, but I’m really new to the subject! Thanks a lot in advance!
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you for helping us newbies out. Quick question: do you need to polar align to do daytime time lapse and how do you do it without having Polaris to align with?
Hi Brian. Thanks much for the feedback. When you say daytime time lapse, are you talking about tracking the sun or just a time lapse of the landscape etc.? If for the landscape, then you do not need to polar align. If you are asking about tracking the sun, then yes, you will need to polar align. You can do this by simply pointing the mount to True North (not Magnetic North) - your iPhone and other smartphones can show where True North is. If you don't have that feature on your phone, just get a compass and point to the Magnetic North and then check any app (online or on your phone) to see how many degrees the True North is offset from the Magnetic North and make the adjustment. The idea is that your SA should be pointing towards the True North. One done, then adjust the latitude adjustment knob for your current latitude. This should approximately point the Star Adventurer towards the NCP - enough to get sharp shots with solar tracking. You can also check out skyandtelescope.org/observing/daylight-polar-alignment/
Great tutorial!! This helps me with everything i didn’t know to do. Can you tell me what typical Dithering time lengths should be for astrophotography and do they depend on exposure lengths ?? Thanks again. Frank.
Hi Frank. First just make sure you have the latest firmware for your Mount (i.e. later than 3.10) and that you have the latest SAM Console app. The dithering on the SA v2i is in the RA axis only, but will definitely be beneficial. You would of course have to use the cable to connect your camera to the SNAP port and let the SA control the exposures. If you wanted to dither in the declination axis, you could very slightly move the gear in that axis (with the fine tuning adjustment knob) every few frames. I had found this formula below from a post by Fred on the Star Gazers Lounge website:
d = 35 x p / F
Where :
d is the dithering in arcmin, to enter in the SAM console app
p is the pixel size, in µm
F is the focal length of your lens in mm
It seems you might not be able to enter decimal numbers directly in the SAM console. To get past that, just enter 0 and press 'Done' - you will see 0.00 in the input box. Then just edit the figures and don't delete the decimal separator.
Fred recommends saving a profile for each DSLR/ lens combination you use so that you don't need to calculate it again.