@@linserxx but you left in the 280V one, won't it explode sooner or later? I don't know how high the voltage in Argentina can go, but in Europe it can go as high as 253V within spec, at that voltage the DC voltage can reach 357V, better be safe than sorry and put a 400V cap in there
Yes it should. I mistakenly took 220v as peak voltage. I expected the cap to fail immediately if the limit was exceded, but it didn't happen, so I thought it was safe. I also went for the smaller cap in size, so it could fit inside the shell. I will add a note on the video.
Hey dude, thanks for the video! I have been having trouble finding the right varistor for the conversion. Is there a chance you can tell me exactly the one you used in the video? Very appreciated
Hi. You just need a varistor rated for the voltage level on your power outlet, that's the only requirement. Also, if you can't find a varistor, just remove the original one and don't replace it. The power supply will work, but it wont be protected for over voltages.
in UK you use 450V due there is a Nationwide Voltage Difference Urban - 220v ~ 240V (GAS Central heating) Rural - 240V ~ 250V (Economy 7 Storage Heaters electric Heating airas ) Plus They are now Tring to standardise UK to 230V AC (Australia, New Zealand Voltages so we can import there white goods and export ours to them) on my voltage meters it Was 250V 30 years ago and Today its still ls 250V AC in my UK Rural Wall sockets due my zone is a Electric economy 7 Heating Zone
Yes, you are right. The capacitor should be made for 400v. I thought it should fail immediately if the rating was exceded. I mistakenly thought that 220v was peak voltage, not RMS, so went for the smallest cap in size. I will add a note on the video.
You shouldn't need to drill out the rubber thing, just stick it in a pan of boiling water and yank the cable out, that's how I used to fix Xbox controller cables on old dukes.
Good video DIY, just a few notes: Japanese grade original cap gets changed by chinese crap capacitor rated for barely above voltage (Chinese // 5th tier caps real voltage rate uses to be 80% of rated in label, It should've been changed by at least a 350-400V(good quality cap) or 450V (chinese crapacitor) rated for high ripple or power delivery. Extending the legs of a cap with joints or wires with a different matterial can impact capacitance and response. Anyway I've never liked the 220V to 110V and viceversa "just change the AC cap/varistor type of mods", this when done in PAL region for japanese Ps1s or Dreamcasts makes the PSU deliver higher temperatures and makes them "noisier" than when used with a proper 110v-220v stepdown transformer.
Thank you for the notes! I replaced again the capacitor after recording the video, installed a 450v one without extending its legs. It surely runs hotter, I don't know if noisier (didn't check with my oscilloscope), but it is much more elegant than connecting a stepdown transformer. I also don't like it very much, but saw many people doing it so I tried it. What do you think about replacing the electronics inside the PSU for a modern AC-DC board?
@@maurobarreca You mean picoPSU's or what? From what I could experience the problem relies that all parts on the hot side of the PSU PCB are not rated for 220v, that including the first DC transformer, there is more toll on mosfets and regulators are they'll have to deal with more voltage and harmonics. That's why is a solution I don't like personally. What I did in my case is just to have the internal linear transformer of a 45W stepdown installed into my SAI that why is disguised then to a strip of american/japanese type. Also for N64's you can use just a PAL psu it will work and it avoid all the necessary mods.
@@TengoReuma yes, no doubt that using a PAL PSU would be the optimal solution, it just is more expensive and not very interesting for a video 😄. Here where I live they're also not easy to get, or if you get them, and they're not a chinese clone, they're just so expensive. On the other side I have done some research before making the video, and couldn't find a schematic of the PSU, so I coudn't check the ratings of some of the components. For what I could check I deduced that the PSU was designed for both 220v and 120v in mind, but limited just by the components I changed (I don't know if this makes sense, surely I'm wrong). I would like to get a PAL PSU just to compare the two and make some conclusions. In short I will receive a Japanese N64 so I will make another video like this sometime in the future, after researching this stuff you are telling me. Thank you so much for the data!
Yes I could, but that wouldn't be fun :) . On the other side, I think that these PSUs were designed from scratch for multiple voltages, and were just limited by country via these components that I replace in the video. There shouldn't be problems caused by this mod.
Never knew this could be done until today, thanks for the video :)
Yes, just take into account that in the video I installed a 250v capacitor, when it should be rated for at least 400v. Thanks to you for watching!
Great work! So simple too.
Thanks a lot!
Shouldn't the main filter capacitor been replaced with a 400V one?
Yep, after rectification he will have approximately 300v
@@linserxx but you left in the 280V one, won't it explode sooner or later? I don't know how high the voltage in Argentina can go, but in Europe it can go as high as 253V within spec, at that voltage the DC voltage can reach 357V, better be safe than sorry and put a 400V cap in there
Yes it should. I mistakenly took 220v as peak voltage. I expected the cap to fail immediately if the limit was exceded, but it didn't happen, so I thought it was safe. I also went for the smaller cap in size, so it could fit inside the shell. I will add a note on the video.
I was sooo ready to watch that wrong voltage capacitor swell up and vent but it was quite the champ was it not? 😅
Hehe, yes. It would have been better for the video though... 🤔
@@maurobarreca for sure, But since the Varistor still gave up the magic smoke we still got some of the entertainment ;)
Hey dude, thanks for the video!
I have been having trouble finding the right varistor for the conversion. Is there a chance you can tell me exactly the one you used in the video? Very appreciated
Hi. You just need a varistor rated for the voltage level on your power outlet, that's the only requirement. Also, if you can't find a varistor, just remove the original one and don't replace it. The power supply will work, but it wont be protected for over voltages.
in UK you use 450V
due there is a Nationwide Voltage Difference
Urban - 220v ~ 240V (GAS Central heating)
Rural - 240V ~ 250V (Economy 7 Storage Heaters electric Heating airas )
Plus They are now Tring to standardise UK to 230V AC (Australia, New Zealand Voltages so we can import there white goods and export ours to them)
on my voltage meters it Was 250V 30 years ago and Today its still ls 250V AC in my UK Rural Wall sockets due my zone is a Electric economy 7 Heating Zone
Interesting. After recording the video I replaced the capacitor again, and installed a 450v. It also fitted inside the shell.
OK mod, but I expect that 250V main filter cap to fail soon. If you rectify 220V AC you get +/- 310V DC voltage.
Yes, you are right. The capacitor should be made for 400v. I thought it should fail immediately if the rating was exceded. I mistakenly thought that 220v was peak voltage, not RMS, so went for the smallest cap in size. I will add a note on the video.
You shouldn't need to drill out the rubber thing, just stick it in a pan of boiling water and yank the cable out, that's how I used to fix Xbox controller cables on old dukes.
Hey, thank you, I will try that next time!
What components did you use? Just those 3 capacitors?
I just replaced a capacitor and a varistor.
Con un condensador de 400v (250v es muy justo creo yo) y un varistor de 275 estara bien no?
Si, usa uno de 400v, el varistor esta bien tambien. En el video yo puse uno de 250v, pero despues lo cambie por uno de 400. Fijate en los comentarios.
Good video DIY, just a few notes:
Japanese grade original cap gets changed by chinese crap capacitor rated for barely above voltage (Chinese // 5th tier caps real voltage rate uses to be 80% of rated in label, It should've been changed by at least a 350-400V(good quality cap) or 450V (chinese crapacitor) rated for high ripple or power delivery.
Extending the legs of a cap with joints or wires with a different matterial can impact capacitance and response.
Anyway I've never liked the 220V to 110V and viceversa "just change the AC cap/varistor type of mods", this when done in PAL region for japanese Ps1s or Dreamcasts makes the PSU deliver higher temperatures and makes them "noisier" than when used with a proper 110v-220v stepdown transformer.
Thank you for the notes! I replaced again the capacitor after recording the video, installed a 450v one without extending its legs. It surely runs hotter, I don't know if noisier (didn't check with my oscilloscope), but it is much more elegant than connecting a stepdown transformer. I also don't like it very much, but saw many people doing it so I tried it. What do you think about replacing the electronics inside the PSU for a modern AC-DC board?
@@maurobarreca You mean picoPSU's or what?
From what I could experience the problem relies that all parts on the hot side of the PSU PCB are not rated for 220v, that including the first DC transformer, there is more toll on mosfets and regulators are they'll have to deal with more voltage and harmonics.
That's why is a solution I don't like personally.
What I did in my case is just to have the internal linear transformer of a 45W stepdown installed into my SAI that why is disguised then to a strip of american/japanese type.
Also for N64's you can use just a PAL psu it will work and it avoid all the necessary mods.
@@TengoReuma yes, no doubt that using a PAL PSU would be the optimal solution, it just is more expensive and not very interesting for a video 😄. Here where I live they're also not easy to get, or if you get them, and they're not a chinese clone, they're just so expensive.
On the other side I have done some research before making the video, and couldn't find a schematic of the PSU, so I coudn't check the ratings of some of the components. For what I could check I deduced that the PSU was designed for both 220v and 120v in mind, but limited just by the components I changed (I don't know if this makes sense, surely I'm wrong). I would like to get a PAL PSU just to compare the two and make some conclusions. In short I will receive a Japanese N64 so I will make another video like this sometime in the future, after researching this stuff you are telling me.
Thank you so much for the data!
@@maurobarreca Keep on keeping on ! :)
Muy bueno! Gracias por el video!
Muchas gracias por pasar!
Could you just buy a PSU from your Country? Everything is in the PSU for the Power, So it won't hurt the N64
Yes I could, but that wouldn't be fun :) . On the other side, I think that these PSUs were designed from scratch for multiple voltages, and were just limited by country via these components that I replace in the video. There shouldn't be problems caused by this mod.
You mean "Explosions"
He, thank you. I already changed it.