How to Repair a Tongue-and-Groove Wood Floor | This Old House
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2014
- Cutting in a perfect-fit patch with This Old House general contractor Tom Silva. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tom helped a pair of homeowners repair part of an oak floor damaged by a leaking steam radiator. With the radiator removed, Tom removed several damaged pieces of flooring using a hammer, chisel, and prybar. Next, he cut several new pieces of strip flooring to fit and installed them using glue and nails. Finally, Tom added a coat of amber-colored shellac to help make the new flooring look like the old flooring surrounding it.
Tools for Repairing a Tongue-and-Groove Wood Floor:
- 1-inch-wide wood chisel
- flat pry bar
- circular saw
- caulk gun
- jigsaw
- table saw
- finish nailer
- random-orbit sander
- 3-inch putty knife
- dust pan and broom or vacuum
Shopping List for Repairing a Tongue-and-Groove Wood Floor:
- wood flooring
- construction adhesive
- 2-inch finishing nails
- 20-grit abrasive sanding disks
- wood filler
- shellac
- oil-based wood stain
- polyurethane varnish
- 4-inch-wide foam brush
- 100-grit sandpaper
Red oak strip flooring is available at many lumber yards and home centers.
The amber-colored shellac that Tom applied to the new flooring is manufactured by Zinsser (Rustoleum) [bit.ly/37BJaAc].
Tom also used an oil-based stain manufactured by Minwax [www.minwax.com/] and a solvent-based wood filler manufactured by DAP Plastic Wood [www.dap.com/].
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How to Repair a Tongue-and-Groove Wood Floor | This Old House
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To get a board out, after chiseling the ends, I set my 5 1/2 inch circular saw for 3/4 in depth of cut. I make two cuts down the middle of the board, well away from the edges to avoid hitting nails. The resulting center strip can be lifted out and the edges pried away from adjoining boards. (I use a reciprocating saw with a thin hacksaw blade to cut back under the side with the nails so the tongue side comes out easily.) This procedure results in a lot less damage to good boards than pounding in a pry bar.
I love the way America does wood flooring. I stayed in NYC for 2 years and really miss that floor.
For folks that look for this material as it measures finished "2" you will not find it. As Tom says look for 2 1/2" red or white oak T&G flooring, it finishes at 2". In my area of Southern California, they mixed white and red oak, if you do the same it is easier to stain to match. The shellac he used first is key as well if you want that patch to almost disappear.
Tom is the man 👨
What an ace ...... he makes everything look so easy 😊
I was about to over-complicate things w/power tools and noise & dust everywhere. Tom Silva, like a true master craftsman, keeps it simple!
Really! I like his approach after seeing other videos using a circular saw to cut out the old board. Tom's approach is straightforward, minimizes the chance of cutting past the old board edges, and looks to provide great results. Nice to see an experienced craftsman at work!
Very comprehensible video, easy to try on my own with confidence! thank you! Im excited to watch more of your videos!
Such a unique fix and Tommy walks through it like he has done it 100 times.
It looks like he has done it 100 times because it's not a unique fix and is pretty standard. I am glad he is passing the knowledge.
Take the kick board off on two walls to get floor boards loose and replace new floor boards under kick boards.
Interesting to see the original install was against the baseboards and not under them. Never seen that before. One tip I have learned, was about those chamfered end cuts. I use to cut it all the way to the top like you did when butting up to a finished edge. But discovered that if that is ever sanded, even a tiny bit, it exposes the chamfer and leaves an open line. Now, I only chamfer the bottom and leave the top 3/16's or so as a regular square cut. This still makes a tight joint, but also leaves enough solid wood to allow for any edge sanding.
Baseboard was already installed be four the floor
Great point about the chamfer cut. One refinish, and there’s the gap.
Every time I see one of these fixes where they put glue down where it wasnt before I imagine them having another problem where they need to do a fix, but they cant get the piece out with out destroying the piece its glued to. Its like: no more repairs after this one, unless you want to rip the whole floor out.
Yeah, that's what you would need to do. If you gotta destroy the piece it's glued to to get it out, you destroy it and replace that part, too. Not exactly fun doing more work, but that's just how it is with home repair. Sometimes you just can't avoid doing a lotta work.
Tom is amazing.
I watched several videos, this helped me the most.
As always, Tom Silva shows why he is a top contractor. Well done.
He has made this job harder then needed with many errors
I have to say an oscillating tool makes this job a breeze being able to cut off the top of the groove and pop out sections of board.
Oh, ya! That’s the way to go!
skills. thanks for sharing your knowledge with us plebs sir.
Iam from El Salvador I love it watching the program on weekends when is cold outside get my coffee cup and my tv on mpt
"Swing the hammer, don't push the hammer" 😂 Best line ever told to win a date!
I totally laughed... this great!!
Thank you
Thank You again
The best man on the job
You know what you are doing there. Thanks for the video.
Excellent skill
That was a great repair. Sometimes it's best to let a professional do it, especially if the house is over seventy years old.
I love this guy
That will be a job for the next person to repair that with that liquid nail. I think things should be put together with future repairs on mind.
Tom always makes it look easy. A little chiseling and it comes right up. I needed the circular saw, pry bar and persuasion from my masonry hammer. And did fall in place nice and flat. Nope, you need tongue at both ends even with 2 inch staples. Long story short, "Sonny" [I] was beateng, banging and tweaking with every tool I had.
Wow. What a master. He makes it seem so easy...
It is easy
Oh you cut the tounge off good trick wow you just saved me a headache
I've got some of that to do in my house, in my case it is mostly from previous termite damage where at least a few of the boards were termite highway. I'm lucky enough (lol) that this cheap old house doesn't have a sub floor, so that's why I know about the damage. A little easier in my case to cut out the old stuff, since there's only one layer.
How to do a center piece:
Johnmark Hatfield says:
This is for one piece. If you're doing multiple, just make sure all your perpendicular cuts are staggered, and only remove the bottom groove and top nail your last piece.
1. Put your square parallel to the flooring and carefully make knife marks perpendicular to the woodgrain to mark where you want to remove the piece.
2. Use a very sharp chisel and mallet to cleanly chisel down to the subfloor on your knife marks and disconnect the piece to be removed.
3. Rip with a circular saw (with proper depth) two saw cuts and remove a piece of wood from the center.
4. Remove the side pieces carefully
5. with a matching piece, remove the bottom groove with a table saw or shoulder plane.
6. Stick the new piece's tongue into the flooring's groove and top nail and set the nail.
7. smile
I've seen a lot of comments about the baseboard here. This type of install has stood the test of time in the Portland, Vancouver area in many homes. Sometimes the hardwood is replacing carpet. This means the deck elevation increases by about 3/8". When working in an historic home, sometimes you're dealing with baseboard that is over 100 years old and irreplaceable. just providing an undercut can sometimes require a permit. there are limits to this application. Don't do this in giant rooms, especially with something that moves a bunch, like maple or ash.
I love when he uses the chisel
It's so good to see somebody skillfully doing a good job!
LOL keeping your wood chisel razor sharp while cross cutting hardwood with a framing hammer is a whole other skill set.
question: does anything need to be done with existing finish PRIOR to starting fix? example: should existing finish be stripped (or sanded) to remove?
I never thought I would criticize Tom but this repair may be applicable in an extremely well humidity controlled home, otherwise there is no space allowed for expansion in case of humidity changes. Also it is not usual to glue directly to the subfloor for the same reasons. It is preferable to glue in the tongue & groove space and to use short planks to nail in at the ends or with a finish nailer on the sides. The least that could have been done is to cut the baseboard flush with the floor to allow expansion beneath it. Sorry Tom but I still admire you in general.
I wondered why not just remove the baseboard right there for the same reason..
@@dreamingrightnow1174 Because it’s an old house with irreplaceable baseboard. They key is to keep as much of the original work and to keep it as intact and therefore still original as possible. Not like the idiots today who “flip” and utterly destroy all that is interesting, classic and worthy in an old house. In street language, they f’k it all up.
TOM IS A WIZARD
How well with this repair last if you do a couple of boards in the middle of the floor where you have to cut off the tongues to get the boards in place. I had a new floor installed and the installer did a bad job and used many boards that should not of been used.
Tom you always get it right. Just going through youtube as a joke to watch all these hacks explain all the wrong ways that they work. Keep up the good work.
Ok now i am going to have to call a handyman lol
Thanks, but what if the are you want to fix is in the middle of the floor? You couldn't just hammer it down because it would have to fit into the tongue/groove on the other side...
where do you find individual pieces of wood? I don't want to buy a bundle just to repair a few pieces.
You don’t need to worry about the edges and filler strips if you simply add ¼ round molding to where the baseboard meets the flooring.
Then you need to worry about your molding looking ugly
The point is to maintain the architectural integrity of the home. Otherwise, one is no better than a low-life house flipper.
I'm going to tear up my floor now.
Why was there no expansion space left? Is it because there's preexisting space under the trim, or was it not needed in this case (and why would that be)? Thanks to anyone who helps me understand!
A mistake. Who would of thought it possible?
Gindima They don’t want to spend the money to install base shoe next to baseboard around the room. Baseshoe allows almost a half inch gap, which would allow expansion.
@@deandecoursey7721 They wanted to keep the architectural integrity of the home, so they wouldn’t be like clueless, loser house-flippers.
no expansion gap baseboards should have been on top of the floor just use circular saw to cut two cut down the boards pop out eazy peazy
I have a hole in my flooring. They are BRUCE hardwood floors from Home Depot and not sure if I can do this on the engineered hardwoods. Can someone help me ?
SNL needs to do a sketch on this old House out takes where it's the guys yelling and cursing at home owners because they can't do the simple things or follow instructions
epic
I wonder how many takes it took to make it look this clean.
My old house doesnt have an under floor how can i replace the boards
Pay no attention to the mold on the subfloor it goes away once covered
I'm guessing they ignored discussing mold due to insurance purposes? I have no idea xD i usually clean all mold with a certain ratio of bleach and water.
@@angelc4794 That doesn't work. Bleach only gets what you see, the mold is actually imbedded in the wood so you think it's gucci, cover it up, and the mold does it's dastardly deeds out of sight.
What about on an old floating wood floor?
I wanted to do this kind of work as a carreer but it just didnt happen
As long as there is a finished (climate controlled) area below the floor you are replacing, this method is fine. If you have a crawlspace or unfinished basement below where there can be moisture, you need to put a vapor barrier between the sub-floor and the oak flooring to prevent moisture from warping the oak... and gluing the oak down is not possible. It would have to be nailed.
+Porsche924Tim love to see who you blind nail the flooring in reverse. Any flooring can be glued down. Tom is the man. Period.
+WMBLLC You are correct... any flooring can be glued... it will just warp without a moisture barrier and look like crap in another year...
WOW!!! I'm your pal??? Can we hang out and have a few beers together? Then I can explain proper construction techniques to you! Let's get together!!!
Half of Massachusetts is held together with PL-400
It can be glued however that is not the proper glue for hardwood flooring a urethane glue that offers vapor retarder would be best
Where can I get the 2.5 X 1 inch flooring that you used in the Video ? I live in Connecticut and am doing the same repair you showed. I can't seem to locate that size flooring. You mentioned the Home Center ?
Did you try Lumber Liquidators?
I’m looking to replace 3 24” pieces but HD only sells by the box of 15 sqft.. way too much. Will look into Lumbers Liquidators
I’m looking for same size. My house was built in the 50’s in California and no one seems too sell the exact size. Please help
No expansion gap?
What's that when it's at home? Lol. Give it a year and it wll be like the Rocky Mountains in that room. Mental!
It's not aluminum or vinyl siding. Being located under a radiator, and wood having a moisture content it will do the opposite and shrink.
why did he use wood filler on joints? what about expansion and contraction in summer/winter?
EstPaul T and G quarter sawn ... it won’t be a problem.
Thought the same thing. I never saw that done on hardwood flooring installs.
@@pjmtts We bought a house (1907) with pine floors, and someone had "restored" them (to sell the house) with filler between the boards. It was cracked and crumbling in no time. Looked horrible.
@@clowns2theleftofme352 Lol. It did have big windows, but the floors have been redone and the value of the house has doubled; although I'm not counting any chickens these days with the corona virus's impact on urban real estate. :(
I try repaint hardwood floor. But I don’t know what kind of paint I should use. How do I start? Any help pls
Don't use paint you use wood stain
So u remove the tack after the glue dries?
No
Anyone help: how to buy 1 or 2 planks? HD sells min. 15 sqft!!
You don’t. You check the classifieds for someone tearing up theirs and see if they’re giving away scrap of their old or leftover new, it happens now and then, or you buy their minimum bundle, or you ask the manager if they have an open bundle they’ll sell for much less.
...what if you don't have a subfloor?
How are you walk on your floor
I'd like to know how to do that but because I got severely sick my cat peed in a corner where the baseboards are I want to know how to fix that..
You put the cat in the back seat and go for a 50 mile ride, and let it out to pee, and take off!
What kind a glue you used it?
He used nail glue but you should staple it down
@@ethanmcmichael5578 thanks
Anytime
What about expiation
You did not leave room for expansion!
These things aren't that hard but you have to know how to do it.
What is this pipe thing for?
A radiator
A furnace
Now can you come fix mine please! 😩
Not good patch work been installing hardwood and tie end work for over 20 years and that's not the right way to do it
Did he just stain her trim?
He put the tongue in the groove😲
lucky the original wasn't glued down
It was stapled
Ficou muito feio.
Da pra ver a diferença das madeiras
You don't glue it and you don't put it tight to the baseboard.
careful editing doesn't show every result. example @3:40 we really don't see that piece go all the way in. We also don't see the FINAL RESULT. What sort of video is this. I want to see the final result of the color match.
That's the issue on doing repairs on existing floor. Hard to match Color and sheen. I mean, it's just best resand and finish after all repairs done so, that it will be nice and flat. Color and sheen on point
It’s a clip. There is an entire episode to go with it.
And he stained floor boards and didn't even tape painted kick boards
Tommy gets hit with a hammer 0:39
Hack!
$25 worth of flooring and $500 worth of experience.
This video does NOT work on UA-cam mobile app. FIX IT!!!!!!!
Tu
the reason He applied glue to the bottom but not the T&G is probably the subfloor is not in good condition!
can you come and fix my gaps in my floor please :D
Sand em... Use woodfiller which matches near wood color and restain and polyurethane foor. Paint tape over kick boards to protect from stain
Dude doesn't cut his fingernails..
He replaced with wrong wood . Old wood is white oak e new wood red oak , color never going to match
Man, I need you to come over; been trying to figure out what kinda oak I've got for six months, lol.
I dont listen to anyone who does hardwood with out a hardwood installation hammer.
I feel you
I bout won four mies boat flours ands nows its nots evenes leekens no mores
Woodglut Blueprints has some very useful blueprints with all the details you need.
I did it with the Woodglut plans.