I've used the Matt as a final coat on my last 3 builds and on my current build i decided to use some pigments over it and wanted to remove some with a damp kitchen towel and with the lightest of rubs it went straight though the varnish. It went over a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss so with them been water based they dont have the strength to bed into the gloss under it so youd need to give it a rub of very fine sand paper to give it something to grab too. I'm a professional spray painter and avoid water based paints like the plague but have leaned towards them in my hobby for a long time mainly using Model Air. I finded Mig Ammo way too much work to get right, they have great colours but they aint great too use. Thanks for the video, its very well made.
I just used the gloss coat. Man it was fun to work with. Dare i say it flowed smoother than water? Yes. I have had nightmares with gloss coats which is the base for a good weathering. Grainy, not even and such. Ive been very impressed.
Nice review - thanks!😊👍 Could a hairdryer be used to speed up the drying on the matt versions? Was there any tip dry - how was airbrush clean up afterwards? How does it work on MIG weathering powders? Thanks👍😊
Sure, a gentle hairdryering can speed things up with acrylics :) Varnishes over powders are fine, although it will fade some of it away and make it look like you applied less, so you might find applying a little more powder than you need might prevent that. You can also mix pigments and powders into paints and varnishes to create thicker mud and dust effects.
Hi opn did you spray at 17 psi as on bottle or at a different psi. It’s just I watched one from ammo spraying Matt and they said 21 psi 1.2 bar so I, a bit confused
Ok , back to the drawing board for this stuff... i have coated my wing and left to dry a little more than 24h...in my attempt to apply decals, after placing the solvent..micro sol in this case...the coat immediately lightens up and with slightest touch with the brush it peels off. Even after a 24h set time, if you touch it with a little water it peels off. I know its water based but wth. Vallejo on the other hand stated that it is permanent and ive found it more durable in the past... what am i doing wrong, please help. Im desperate.
Hi love the vid since its the first proper instruction on using Ammo's Lucky varnishes. But I havent been lucky yet in using them. Last night, watching your vid, I tried varnishing with the satin version. First I tried some coats but I noticed some bubbly bits but hoped these would flatten out after waiting for about 5 minutes between coats. It didnt flatten out so even after a few coats the result wasnt near your result with the satin varnish. After that I put on really misty coats so no bubbles appeared but than it dries a bit grainy and has a more matt finish. Tonight I would probably go for some more test bits but do you have any more suggestions/ideas for improvement?
Yep, thin mist coats is the way to avoid any imperfections in the surface, these varnishes are not designed to be applied thickly! With the satin varnishes, as long as you follow the guideline method - use the varnish unthinned, around 17psi, thin mist coats, and allow 5 minutes between these mist coats - then really only two to three coats would really be needed for a nice satin finish. If it is grainy or has any kind of major texture it may well be perhaps that the varnish is drying by the time it hits the plastic, so usually this would suggest the pressure is too high or you are too far away from the model. Keep it around 17psi or so and really you only want to be a couple of inches away.
Hi, thanx for the reply. I gave it another try holding the airbrush closer and the results were better. It does get on then with a wet surfase but not floaded. It dried much better. give it another try with slightly less psi. But practice is crucial with these (all) varnishes :)
I had no issues at all, it went on like a dream. The only spotting I got was when I hoofed it onto the black plastic fork deliberately to see what it would do. It really does need a super-light, misty coat, and it is easy to accidentally go to heavy.
How does the gloss hold up for weathering. For example I use tamiya panel accent. But being enamel based I’ve had problems in the past lifting the paint underneath when removing excess.
It is pretty durable and should be okay for weathering. They are not designed to withstand massive amounts of handling though as they are really meant for shelf-queen builds, but they should be fine with most enamel and oil weathering products if you are careful. Maybe you might like to try the Ammo by Mig Panel Line Washes, which are a little milder and can easily be cleaned up without thinners after about half an hour.
Doesn’t hold up well at all, I just had oderless thinner eat through two layers (one under the decals one over) while working with streaking grime and it’s peeling off like sunburnt skin. Going back to lacquer spray cans
Brandon Brockwell I tried these and wasn’t impressed with the finish, I know use tamiya x22 with self levelling thinner by mr hobby, And before it completely dries a light coat of straight thinner over. Gives a really tough glossy smooth finish.
Nice review would say though you need a Benchvent booth then you can use rattle cans 365/24/7 and will not have any issues How long do you need to leave these before you can go over with weathering enamels??
Foxx says: Sadly benchvents are not really something I can install into a domestic spare bedroom ^_^ I would leave them to cure 24 hours before working on top of them, just to be safe.
I would have either painted up another card to leave as a control with just the grey paint on plastic, or put a mask over the bottom half of each for comparison.
Hmmm....have all 4 of them, luckily smaller bottles...I've done like 5-6 coats of gloss on a 1/48 Messerschmitt, it only looks glossy until it dries...when doing the panel washes, I felt as if the model soaked up the wash into the paint, in other words, the varnish didn't do its job...a wash should really run along the lines itself, without me pushing it every bit of the way...
I've tried the gloss and Matt both work good... And give the expected results. My problem is with the ultra Matt which I love the finish it leaves with the paint (gives a no varnish look etc, paint does t look dulled) but. I find I get like.... Flaky skin bits coming off...???
The Lucky Varnishes are ideal for quick and easy application to matte down display models that will have minimal future handling, but being more of a last-step varnish they will require great care if applied partway through a project.
Mate, said by Jimenes himself, the Ultra Matt is not meant to be used by itself as a varnish coat, it's meant to be mixed with the paints before application :) Cheers!
There are certainly more durable alternatives and careful handling is suggested if they are applied mid-way through a project, but the Lucky Varnishes are ideal for quick and easy application to matte down display models that will have minimal future handling :)
Tried it also recently and it's not working out. Gloss is satin, matt is satin... It reacts with underlying paintwork and gives orange peel effect. Sorry, but not enthousiastic about it. wetahering products by Mig are ok. Paints and varnish, not ok!
As an acrylic varnish it should not react with any other kind of paint. It WILL react with oils and enamels if they are not fully cured, however - keep in mind that those paint types and take DAYS to fully cure (not just dry). As for orangepeel, this is caused by the varnish not being able to cure consistently all the way through and self level properly - 99% of the time this will be down to being applied too thickly or wet-on-wet. It needs to be applied in thin mist coats with drying time between coats and built up following the directions on the bottle (same as the Ammo paints). This will also lead to the matte coming out as satin - it has been applied too thick :)
Would not recommend this stuff had nothing but issues with it and I left it 24hours and then applied a wash and when removing the wash it just peeled up and ruined the kit absolutely crap product
Ok here is the verdict....as well as they spray ,,, if you try to do anything on it as simple as placing decal solvent, the coat is ruined. NOT recommended as it ruined a whole model plane.
Had the same thing happen - ruined two models. Emailed Mig and they said only put the solution on the decal lol - their own mig setting solution ate right through it.
@@LemurKrazy there must be a way...ive seen awesome models sprayed with this thing prior to decaling and they have no problem, and look glossy and smooth as hell. P.s.Took a time to respond cause i just took it out of the cupboard to have another try... ....whaaat...put the solution only on the decal...are they mocking us? Who does that? YOU must be the only one on the planet to address this as i have searched and found nothing. Plz my brotha in arms,help me find a way.
@@padelisgk8126 what they do now is suggest people buy their Mig rebranded Alclad aqua gloss if you are going to weather or decal. There’s no point using unlucky varnish for any reason.
Tried again - the satin looks good when used properly as a final coat. No thinning sprayed at 25psi - 5 minutes between light coats. I am using AK Int. Gauzy before decals - it can take decal solutions.
I've used the Matt as a final coat on my last 3 builds and on my current build i decided to use some pigments over it and wanted to remove some with a damp kitchen towel and with the lightest of rubs it went straight though the varnish. It went over a coat of Alclad Aqua Gloss so with them been water based they dont have the strength to bed into the gloss under it so youd need to give it a rub of very fine sand paper to give it something to grab too. I'm a professional spray painter and avoid water based paints like the plague but have leaned towards them in my hobby for a long time mainly using Model Air. I finded Mig Ammo way too much work to get right, they have great colours but they aint great too use.
Thanks for the video, its very well made.
Not had much luck with varnishes generally, will definitely give these a go!
Thanks for the info!
Oooh thanks for the video! I'll be testing the matt today!
I just used the gloss coat. Man it was fun to work with. Dare i say it flowed smoother than water? Yes. I have had nightmares with gloss coats which is the base for a good weathering. Grainy, not even and such. Ive been very impressed.
Nice review - thanks!😊👍
Could a hairdryer be used to speed up the drying on the matt versions? Was there any tip dry - how was airbrush clean up afterwards? How does it work on MIG weathering powders? Thanks👍😊
Sure, a gentle hairdryering can speed things up with acrylics :)
Varnishes over powders are fine, although it will fade some of it away and make it look like you applied less, so you might find applying a little more powder than you need might prevent that. You can also mix pigments and powders into paints and varnishes to create thicker mud and dust effects.
@@emodelsuk Hi, thanks for the reply and the advice, much appreciated. I've still yet to try the product, lots of models awaiting paint 🙄🙄😄😄😄👍🤞
Hi. Is not it necessary to dilute? What thiner did you use? Is it acrylic or enamel? . Thanks foto the revises.
Look nice how about a durability test see if they hold up to masking
Very interesting, how long you wait between layer and layer for the gloss?
Hi opn did you spray at 17 psi as on bottle or at a different psi. It’s just I watched one from ammo spraying Matt and they said 21 psi 1.2 bar so I, a bit confused
Can i panel line vallejo wash on top of these
Do they behave nicely with handpainting? Im looking forward to get the the ultra matt since my aqueous hobby flat frost up way too often with brushes.
Do they need to be diluted for airbrush?
Would you cover the front of the spray booth in between coats to stop dust foxy
Ok , back to the drawing board for this stuff... i have coated my wing and left to dry a little more than 24h...in my attempt to apply decals, after placing the solvent..micro sol in this case...the coat immediately lightens up and with slightest touch with the brush it peels off. Even after a 24h set time, if you touch it with a little water it peels off. I know its water based but wth. Vallejo on the other hand stated that it is permanent and ive found it more durable in the past... what am i doing wrong, please help. Im desperate.
Hi love the vid since its the first proper instruction on using Ammo's Lucky varnishes. But I havent been lucky yet in using them.
Last night, watching your vid, I tried varnishing with the satin version. First I tried some coats but I noticed some bubbly bits but hoped these would flatten out after waiting for about 5 minutes between coats. It didnt flatten out so even after a few coats the result wasnt near your result with the satin varnish. After that I put on really misty coats so no bubbles appeared but than it dries a bit grainy and has a more matt finish.
Tonight I would probably go for some more test bits but do you have any more suggestions/ideas for improvement?
Yep, thin mist coats is the way to avoid any imperfections in the surface, these varnishes are not designed to be applied thickly! With the satin varnishes, as long as you follow the guideline method - use the varnish unthinned, around 17psi, thin mist coats, and allow 5 minutes between these mist coats - then really only two to three coats would really be needed for a nice satin finish. If it is grainy or has any kind of major texture it may well be perhaps that the varnish is drying by the time it hits the plastic, so usually this would suggest the pressure is too high or you are too far away from the model. Keep it around 17psi or so and really you only want to be a couple of inches away.
Hi, thanx for the reply. I gave it another try holding the airbrush closer and the results were better. It does get on then with a wet surfase but not floaded. It dried much better. give it another try with slightly less psi. But practice is crucial with these (all) varnishes :)
Looks like good stuff. Did you say how big the bottles are?
These were 17ml, same as the paints, but 60ml bottles are also available.
Thanks!
I've tried the satin one and it gave me some kind of spots even if I spayed misty coats. That ruined my SU-27 painted with MRP... ☹️
I had no issues at all, it went on like a dream. The only spotting I got was when I hoofed it onto the black plastic fork deliberately to see what it would do. It really does need a super-light, misty coat, and it is easy to accidentally go to heavy.
How does the gloss hold up for weathering.
For example I use tamiya panel accent. But being enamel based I’ve had problems in the past lifting the paint underneath when removing excess.
It is pretty durable and should be okay for weathering. They are not designed to withstand massive amounts of handling though as they are really meant for shelf-queen builds, but they should be fine with most enamel and oil weathering products if you are careful. Maybe you might like to try the Ammo by Mig Panel Line Washes, which are a little milder and can easily be cleaned up without thinners after about half an hour.
Doesn’t hold up well at all, I just had oderless thinner eat through two layers (one under the decals one over) while working with streaking grime and it’s peeling off like sunburnt skin. Going back to lacquer spray cans
Brandon Brockwell I tried these and wasn’t impressed with the finish,
I know use tamiya x22 with self levelling thinner by mr hobby,
And before it completely dries a light coat of straight thinner over.
Gives a really tough glossy smooth finish.
Nice review would say though you need a Benchvent booth then you can use rattle cans 365/24/7 and will not have any issues
How long do you need to leave these before you can go over with weathering enamels??
Foxx says: Sadly benchvents are not really something I can install into a domestic spare bedroom ^_^
I would leave them to cure 24 hours before working on top of them, just to be safe.
I would have either painted up another card to leave as a control with just the grey paint on plastic, or put a mask over the bottom half of each for comparison.
Thak you very much for this video tutorial mate !!
Hmmm....have all 4 of them, luckily smaller bottles...I've done like 5-6 coats of gloss on a 1/48 Messerschmitt, it only looks glossy until it dries...when doing the panel washes, I felt as if the model soaked up the wash into the paint, in other words, the varnish didn't do its job...a wash should really run along the lines itself, without me pushing it every bit of the way...
I've tried the gloss and Matt both work good... And give the expected results. My problem is with the ultra Matt which I love the finish it leaves with the paint (gives a no varnish look etc, paint does t look dulled) but. I find I get like.... Flaky skin bits coming off...???
The Lucky Varnishes are ideal for quick and easy application to matte down display models that will have minimal future handling, but being more of a last-step varnish they will require great care if applied partway through a project.
Mate, said by Jimenes himself, the Ultra Matt is not meant to be used by itself as a varnish coat, it's meant to be mixed with the paints before application :) Cheers!
Nice review Foxx.
Thank you on a very interesting video foxy I know what varnish I can use and a bit like you I need completely idiot proof
I'll give it another try
Interesting spoons, we have similar things called forks, ha ha. Butt seriously thanks for the tutorial
the varnish rubs oiff with rubbing,..
There are certainly more durable alternatives and careful handling is suggested if they are applied mid-way through a project, but the Lucky Varnishes are ideal for quick and easy application to matte down display models that will have minimal future handling :)
Tried it also recently and it's not working out. Gloss is satin, matt is satin... It reacts with underlying paintwork and gives orange peel effect. Sorry, but not enthousiastic about it. wetahering products by Mig are ok. Paints and varnish, not ok!
As an acrylic varnish it should not react with any other kind of paint. It WILL react with oils and enamels if they are not fully cured, however - keep in mind that those paint types and take DAYS to fully cure (not just dry). As for orangepeel, this is caused by the varnish not being able to cure consistently all the way through and self level properly - 99% of the time this will be down to being applied too thickly or wet-on-wet. It needs to be applied in thin mist coats with drying time between coats and built up following the directions on the bottle (same as the Ammo paints). This will also lead to the matte coming out as satin - it has been applied too thick :)
Would not recommend this stuff had nothing but issues with it and I left it 24hours and then applied a wash and when removing the wash it just peeled up and ruined the kit absolutely crap product
Ok here is the verdict....as well as they spray ,,, if you try to do anything on it as simple as placing decal solvent, the coat is ruined. NOT recommended as it ruined a whole model plane.
Had the same thing happen - ruined two models.
Emailed Mig and they said only put the solution on the decal lol - their own mig setting solution ate right through it.
@@LemurKrazy there must be a way...ive seen awesome models sprayed with this thing prior to decaling and they have no problem, and look glossy and smooth as hell.
P.s.Took a time to respond cause i just took it out of the cupboard to have another try...
....whaaat...put the solution only on the decal...are they mocking us? Who does that?
YOU must be the only one on the planet to address this as i have searched and found nothing. Plz my brotha in arms,help me find a way.
@@padelisgk8126 what they do now is suggest people buy their Mig rebranded Alclad aqua gloss if you are going to weather or decal.
There’s no point using unlucky varnish for any reason.
Tried again - the satin looks good when used properly as a final coat.
No thinning sprayed at 25psi - 5 minutes between light coats.
I am using AK Int. Gauzy before decals - it can take decal solutions.
This stuff sucks! Don't buy it, unlucky varnish
This stuff sucks