I always enjoy your content and will leave your race footage on all day. Don't think I would have the cojones to race with other cars but have always wanted an run on an empty track with some lessons.
Trackdays are how I got started, they are great fun and usually pretty safe. I always preferred the ones with classic cars rather than modern ones though.
David, Thanks for the video, informative as always. Some information of your grease dispenser would be good, looks like a useful tool (unlike the arch flaring tool!)
Many thanks for your message, the little grease gun is ideal for precision work, it's made by Shimano and is aimed for use on bicycles www.jejamescycles.com/product/273441/shimano-workshop-shimano-grease-gun-to-fit-onto-a-tube-of-shimano-grease/option/
Some of the old school boys here stateside would place a baseball bat grip between the tire, and arch and with the wheel jacked up, roll it through. Kinking the arch is a hazard for sure. Your tool seems to be a bit more precise and controllable / repeatable than simple hand pressure on a baseball bat. Love your channel and your car.
Thanks David for this video which I found particularly interesting as I have a similar problem on my 1970 B. Also like yours this appears to be more profound on the driver side rear than on the passenger side. Obviously some misalignment between the rear axle and the bodywork. I was curious as to what size tyres you’re running? I have 195/65 R5 on 15 J Minilites fitted by a PO. I was resigned to changing to narrower tyres until I saw your video. Now i have another option to consider!thanks again, really appreciate your sharing your experience!
Many thanks for your message Peter, the asymmetric nature of the rear wheel spacing definitely seems to be a "feature" on these cars. From the start the drivers side has always been a bit closer on my car (heritage shell), it only really showed up in very high speed right handers like Paddock Hill at Brands Hatch. After the off at Snetterton the gap seemed too close for comfort so hopefully the few extra mm I found may be enough, if not I'll take the car back to the body shop and see if the arch can be opened out more. Going back to your question the tyres on my car are equivalent of 185/65 14, but are cross ply so are called L14's. If you've not done so already it worth turning the lip in the rear arch over, this will stop it cutting into the sidewall of the tyre (I had this issue with a BGT I used to trackday).
@@davidrussellwilks Interesting video as always. I intend to track day my roadster which has been lowered 1 inch. What wheel width would you recommend if I want to stick with 14 inch rims and use Toyo 888R tyres hopefully without out the need for arch rolling. I also fitted a quick release (NG) but now the wheel is just too close,...any suggestions? Thanks Jeremy
Thanks for your message Jeremy, personally I've been happy with a 185 width tyre, the Toyos look as though they should have plenty of grip. I think having too wide a tyre may cause the nimbleness of the car to be lost slightly and the steering will certainly be heavy. In my car I was keen to get the wheel a little closer to me, and so having the bolt on type quick release worked well and is fully reversible. I think the only option to keep the distances the same is to use a weld on type boss instead, this will have to be carefully installed though.
I really couldn't say Jeff, it look me around an hour and I did not really get a great result. You would think most body shops would want at least £100 for the work
What is the clearance like on the other side, I was wondering if the axle has moved over slightly. Without hunting back to previous videos did it have a new wing on this side, I know replacements are all slightly different and nothing fits exactly so is that the problem? I remember taking an angle grinder to my fibreglass wings when some wider tyres rubbed but you can't do that with yours.
Thanks for your message Tim, annoyingly I filmed the comparison of the other side and I've forgotten to add it into the video, I'd say there was around 5mm difference, in my car the driver's side has always been a bit closer, but the impact from Snetterton certainly made it more tight.
@@davidrussellwilks I must say that using the flaring tool seems a bit brutal on such an immaculate car in my opinion although I'm not sure what the solution would be. Could you use slightly different offset wheels if you have a bit of room on the inside?
I know what you mean with regards to the tool being rather harsh on the car. I felt the tyre clearance was just too risky and really hoped to have made a better job. From speaking to others it seems as though fellow racers modify the inner arch to give more clearance, I can go down this route if the tyre is still rubbing.
I always enjoy your content and will leave your race footage on all day. Don't think I would have the cojones to race with other cars but have always wanted an run on an empty track with some lessons.
Trackdays are how I got started, they are great fun and usually pretty safe. I always preferred the ones with classic cars rather than modern ones though.
David, Thanks for the video, informative as always. Some information of your grease dispenser would be good, looks like a useful tool (unlike the arch flaring tool!)
Many thanks for your message, the little grease gun is ideal for precision work, it's made by Shimano and is aimed for use on bicycles www.jejamescycles.com/product/273441/shimano-workshop-shimano-grease-gun-to-fit-onto-a-tube-of-shimano-grease/option/
I was going to ask the same thing. That looks like a very handy tool.
Some of the old school boys here stateside would place a baseball bat grip between the tire, and arch and with the wheel jacked up, roll it through. Kinking the arch is a hazard for sure. Your tool seems to be a bit more precise and controllable / repeatable than simple hand pressure on a baseball bat. Love your channel and your car.
Many thanks Lance
Thanks for your video, what about plastic part as my car has two parts a metal and plastic
You will need to remove the plastic part first.
Thanks David for this video which I found particularly interesting as I have a similar problem on my 1970 B. Also like yours this appears to be more profound on the driver side rear than on the passenger side. Obviously some misalignment between the rear axle and the bodywork. I was curious as to what size tyres you’re running? I have 195/65 R5 on 15 J Minilites fitted by a PO. I was resigned to changing to narrower tyres until I saw your video. Now i have another option to consider!thanks again, really appreciate your sharing your experience!
Many thanks for your message Peter, the asymmetric nature of the rear wheel spacing definitely seems to be a "feature" on these cars. From the start the drivers side has always been a bit closer on my car (heritage shell), it only really showed up in very high speed right handers like Paddock Hill at Brands Hatch. After the off at Snetterton the gap seemed too close for comfort so hopefully the few extra mm I found may be enough, if not I'll take the car back to the body shop and see if the arch can be opened out more.
Going back to your question the tyres on my car are equivalent of 185/65 14, but are cross ply so are called L14's. If you've not done so already it worth turning the lip in the rear arch over, this will stop it cutting into the sidewall of the tyre (I had this issue with a BGT I used to trackday).
@@davidrussellwilks Interesting video as always. I intend to track day my roadster which has been lowered 1 inch. What wheel width would you recommend if I want to stick with 14 inch rims and use Toyo 888R tyres hopefully without out the need for arch rolling. I also fitted a quick release (NG) but now the wheel is just too close,...any suggestions?
Thanks
Jeremy
Thanks for your message Jeremy, personally I've been happy with a 185 width tyre, the Toyos look as though they should have plenty of grip. I think having too wide a tyre may cause the nimbleness of the car to be lost slightly and the steering will certainly be heavy.
In my car I was keen to get the wheel a little closer to me, and so having the bolt on type quick release worked well and is fully reversible. I think the only option to keep the distances the same is to use a weld on type boss instead, this will have to be carefully installed though.
Hi David
Many thanks for your response,...much appreciated
Jeremy
Hi David, Happy New Year !
Out of curiosity, what would it have cost to have a body shop do the same job ?
I really couldn't say Jeff, it look me around an hour and I did not really get a great result. You would think most body shops would want at least £100 for the work
What is the clearance like on the other side, I was wondering if the axle has moved over slightly. Without hunting back to previous videos did it have a new wing on this side, I know replacements are all slightly different and nothing fits exactly so is that the problem? I remember taking an angle grinder to my fibreglass wings when some wider tyres rubbed but you can't do that with yours.
Thanks for your message Tim, annoyingly I filmed the comparison of the other side and I've forgotten to add it into the video, I'd say there was around 5mm difference, in my car the driver's side has always been a bit closer, but the impact from Snetterton certainly made it more tight.
@@davidrussellwilks I must say that using the flaring tool seems a bit brutal on such an immaculate car in my opinion although I'm not sure what the solution would be. Could you use slightly different offset wheels if you have a bit of room on the inside?
I know what you mean with regards to the tool being rather harsh on the car. I felt the tyre clearance was just too risky and really hoped to have made a better job. From speaking to others it seems as though fellow racers modify the inner arch to give more clearance, I can go down this route if the tyre is still rubbing.
Have you considered a panhard rod?
Thanks for your message, unfortunately panhard rods are not allowed, original spec suspension only.