What I've always heard is that you're supposed to prune trees when the sap has receded (so late fall/winter), to reduce excessive sap flow from the wound.
One of the special cases is probably trees in the Prunus family. I live in England where, as you know, it's often cold and wet, and I've learned to prune our Japanese cherry tree at this time of year (roughly) to avoid silver leaf fungus. I seem to have a small 'pruning window' for this, as it tends to bud in late February. In fact, I would rather have a crabapple tree instead given the incredibly shortlived blossoms we get in March, which are quickly whipped away by strong winds.
Ive always used a sealing material. It is black thick jelly like almost tar consistency that works great.simply paint it over the cut and it drys and seals . I did this on a large open area where some kind of disease or bug damaged my black oak. After 3 years its half the size and slowly covering the area up...im talking two foot long and 1 foot wide before i treated it. I bought it online...cant remember the name but if anyone is interested i still have the can in my shead...it lasts a long time . I mostly use it on my citrus trees to prevent disease.
we prune lots of species in the autumn in bonsai, mostly to prevent loss of energy. we use cut paste on big cut which helps protect the cut site, but mostly trees are pretty good at protecting themselves if theyre healthy. especially conifers.
In bonsai we definitely prune every tree every fall, with no issues at all. No big cuts of branches though, due to the danger of infection, just prune back to shape to maintain the design and reallocate energy where we want it.
I have a peach tree with a 1 inch size branch that was crossing over another branch and starting to rub off the outer skin of the branch it was leaning against so I pruned it off on a sunny day this fall in Maine. Hope that was ok for the tree. That was all I cut.
What about hedges, isn't this a good time to cut them to restrict growth? Well in my zone 9 Irish climate that never really gets too cold or hot. I read Monty Don's books which advise pruning fruit trees in June or July, which is what I follow mostly as I have a lot of fruit trees.
In the example case you gave of a pruning a broken branch - is there a way to seal it that works? such as covering with melted wax/tar/other. Thanks for the great content!
Speaking of the weeping willow...Do cutting develop the same root structure as seedlings? I've heard that cutting don't develop the same extensive root structure as seedlings. Is this true, at least in part?
The bigger the better. Smaller grow bags dry out extremely fast when there is a lot of foliation rooted in it. I would think at least 5 gallon but 10 gallon would be better.
I have a hydrangea that my Dad gave me before he died so it’s really special to me. I need to move it to another location should I do it now and should I cut it back before or after I move it. Thank you.
What I've always heard is that you're supposed to prune trees when the sap has receded (so late fall/winter), to reduce excessive sap flow from the wound.
As a complete beginner, I do appreciate all the "fussiness" with the definitions
One of the special cases is probably trees in the Prunus family. I live in England where, as you know, it's often cold and wet, and I've learned to prune our Japanese cherry tree at this time of year (roughly) to avoid silver leaf fungus. I seem to have a small 'pruning window' for this, as it tends to bud in late February. In fact, I would rather have a crabapple tree instead given the incredibly shortlived blossoms we get in March, which are quickly whipped away by strong winds.
Ive always used a sealing material. It is black thick jelly like almost tar consistency that works great.simply paint it over the cut and it drys and seals . I did this on a large open area where some kind of disease or bug damaged my black oak. After 3 years its half the size and slowly covering the area up...im talking two foot long and 1 foot wide before i treated it. I bought it online...cant remember the name but if anyone is interested i still have the can in my shead...it lasts a long time . I mostly use it on my citrus trees to prevent disease.
we prune lots of species in the autumn in bonsai, mostly to prevent loss of energy. we use cut paste on big cut which helps protect the cut site, but mostly trees are pretty good at protecting themselves if theyre healthy. especially conifers.
In bonsai we definitely prune every tree every fall, with no issues at all. No big cuts of branches though, due to the danger of infection, just prune back to shape to maintain the design and reallocate energy where we want it.
I have a peach tree with a 1 inch size branch that was crossing over another branch and starting to rub off the outer skin of the branch it was leaning against so I pruned it off on a sunny day this fall in Maine. Hope that was ok for the tree. That was all I cut.
What about hedges, isn't this a good time to cut them to restrict growth? Well in my zone 9 Irish climate that never really gets too cold or hot. I read Monty Don's books which advise pruning fruit trees in June or July, which is what I follow mostly as I have a lot of fruit trees.
Guess I'm glad I procrastinated. Can leave it for a few more months.
Modern Hydrangea developed has focused on smaller plants.
Are you sure that's a 'weeping' willow? It looks like a standard willow that hasn't been pollarded.
It looks like corkscrew willow to me.
I got a mossy fungus starting to grow on my apple plum and peach trees how can I get rid of it thanks for any help and tips
More airflow
In the example case you gave of a pruning a broken branch - is there a way to seal it that works? such as covering with melted wax/tar/other.
Thanks for the great content!
Speaking of the weeping willow...Do cutting develop the same root structure as seedlings? I've heard that cutting don't develop the same extensive root structure as seedlings. Is this true, at least in part?
I grow in "grow bags" how big should my grow bag be to get roots big enough on my Crimson Sweet watermelon for it to grow 20 pound melons?
The bigger the better. Smaller grow bags dry out extremely fast when there is a lot of foliation rooted in it. I would think at least 5 gallon but 10 gallon would be better.
I have a hydrangea that my Dad gave me before he died so it’s really special to me. I need to move it to another location should I do it now and should I cut it back before or after I move it. Thank you.
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