How to Fix Chip in Granite Marble or Quartz - EASY
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Quick video on how to repair a chipped corner on your granite, marble or quartz countertop. There are many was to fix an issue like this. Today I used two types of Parfix Glue to fast and easily get the marble fixed. Its amazing stuff, and very useful in many of situations.
NOTE: This is not a paid endorsement for GMR or Parfix glues. They are just great products that I use almost daily. And the people GMR are top notch.
Link to Repair Glue Kit : amzn.to/3BFZuRl
Video recording and editing by Jay Zagar
Music is "Got Me Good (Instrumental Version)" By: Otto Wallgren
which can be found at www.epidemicsou...
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Hi. I have a quartz countertop that chipped in the edge. I've saved the little piece. Do you think it's better to try to glue it, or fill it in with super glue?
Depending on the size, I think it's almost always better to glue the original piece back in. Size is important here. Let's say the chip is 1/4 the size of your pinky finger nail, I would just fill and sand that with glue. A chip pinky finger nail size or bigger, I would glue the chip and sand after. Too much glue always catches your eye. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions. And thanks for watching.
@ 36seconds, whats that mesh underneath ??
Hello. The fiberglass mesh on the back has a couple purposes. You will see it on all granite, marble or quartz slabs that are known to have a lot of natural fissures or mud veins. 1st reason for it is to reinforce fragile stones. It will help keep the stone in one piece while it's laying horizontally. If you carry it flat with the face polish up, it will be rather solid. If you carry it flat with the face polish side down, It will more than likely snap in half. I wouldn't recommend carrying any stone flat or horizontally. Always move pieces standing vertically.
2nd reason I believe is if the slab does crack while moving vertically, the mesh will help keep the pieces together. I have had full sheets of marble fold on me before. And to be honest, the mesh has saved me numerous times from getting some serious cuts and gashes. Usually when these types of materials break, the raw broken edge is a sharp as razor blades. Sharp enough to easily chop off fingers and toes. Maybe even worse.
Hope this helps and thanks for comment.
I can't see the name of the product
My corner broke off into a huge piece and some dummy threw the other piece away, how can I fix that big of a piece?
You have a couple options.
1. Build the piece back with 2-3 different colors of epoxy. Then you can sand and shape the epoxy to match the shape of your countertop. This is not always the best option because the epoxy doesn't have the same shine or sheen as polished stone.
2. Go to a local stone shop and look for a small sample of the same color stone. Then be creative and shape the sample to fit into the chipped area. This route is time consuming but you will get the best look if done right. After the new piece is glued on, shape and polish the stone to match the the original countertop.
Hope this helps. Let me know.
Nice video terrible music
My Coffee table italian marble has cracked in transportation and it had the same mesh. I bought it from a friend and once it cracked i saw the same mesh . What is this mesh thats stuck a tbottom??
Keep the razor blade perpendicular to the top to scrape off the initial excess. At an angle as shown, it cuts and pulls the adhesive from the crack which is why so much touch-up was needed.
Thanks again for the comment. I agree with you as far as the perpendicular scrape. That is a great technique for harder granites and quartz. But in this case, when you are repairing a softer marble (or travertine or soapstone) the perpendicular blade scrape will etch and damage the polished surface. If this happens you will need to re-surface polish the face. And re-polishing the face is yet another battle in the repair game.
ceramic razor blades are good for the soft materials and they don’t leave metallic streaks behind either. don’t hold up well to lateral force and they are definitely more expensive than the old metal jobs.. but they are helpful in that situation
How to fix it if you don't have the other piece?
I could not live the results, as the crack is still rather visible, so a new countertop it would be. Had a bathroom vanity marble countertop corner crack repaired professionally, but I was not satisfied with the end result, so I replaced the countertop with new marble.
What if it’s just a small chip? I whacked the edge of my counter with a big glass mug (the base of the mug which is thick, solid glass) and a chip flew out. Not huge and probably unnoticed unless you scrutinize the counter. But I’d like to fill it
Hello. You have two options in my opinion. 1. you can fill the chip. Either use akemi or you can use a gel type superglue. when dry just sand with a 400 or higher sandpaper. This should remove the glue without damaging the polish. But really try not to hit the face if polished. 2. Sand the chip out. Depending on the size, sometimes the glue will not stay in the chip. Sometimes its easier to just make the edge roundover larger to hide micro-chips. Marble - you will be fine with sandpaper, but granite - you will need diamond pads to get the best look. Hope this helps. Let me know. Thanks
Thanks for the video Jay, any suggestions how to fix a hairline crack in a beige colored quartz countertop ?
Thanks Chris. Hairline cracks, in man made Quartz, are a tough fix. My 2 cents for you if it helps.
Clean the hairline really good with acetone and some soft scrub. Don't use a razor blade to dig into the crack. Quartz is harder then the metal blade. You will notice the hairline turns darker. That's the metal transferring to the stone.
Use the same liquid flowing parafix glue I use in this video to fill and float the crack. Then when dry scrape with razor blade to get flush again. I usually keep a towel with acetone on it in one hand while doing this. If you see it turning dark, just wipe with the acetone towel. It usually comes right off. Your goal is to get it filled and flush again. It's extremely tough to get it to totally disappear visually. Its kind of like when you get a crack in porcelain. Your better off replacing the tile or sheet with that crap.
Hope this helps and feel free to reach out whenever. Thanks again.
Another Great Video but odd comments. Really Love Your Style! Thanks!
Thanks James. Saw your other comment. Again I greatly appreciate it. Thanks so much.
Would this work for cemetery monuments as well???
For sure it will. I repaired a couple outdoor monuments and statues with the same glue. Its been about 8 years now and still holding strong. This was in Ohio too. Large temperature swings from summer to winter.
@@GraniteByJay where can I get it?
@@scottalbertson1018 I just changed the link in the description. Thanks for the heads up. It's an amazon link. The old link is not available anymore. Sorry about that.
Here is the link too.
amzn.to/3BFZuRl
For what you're looking to do, I would use the medium gel. The thin is water thin. I use that for surface imperfections that are not fully broken apart. It soaks right in. And be careful to not get any on bare skin. This stuff sets FAST. And when it does, It burns like hell. Hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.
first
Great vid Jay! I have a customer that I did a quartz install for and one of my guys made a chip very similar to the one you showed in your video except in an off white quartz with some grey veining. I used epoxy to glue it back together, the fit is close but not exact and you can feel a lip around the perimiter of the chip. I think I should sand down the raised lip and fill with color match epoxy. My concern is that I will change the lustre on the top surface as quartz is apparently hard to re-create the lustre with sanding. What do you think about this? It is mostly an edge piece chip as in your video but is does carry into the top unpolished surface.
HI again Dan. You are right about re-surfacing quartz. It's not easy and can go bad real quick. Not 100% sure on this, but I believe they use more of an acid or chemical buff as their last step in manufacturing those sheets. Glass is the same idea. The last step is an acid.
If you try the sanding route, use lots of water and clean diamond pads. For your last step try using a scotch bright pad with a water and soft scrub mixture. Slow speed. You can get a really close match this way. Let me know how it goes.
@@GraniteByJay Hey that is interesting I would like to to try that polishing technique! Unfortunatelly the customer is worried about the chip in a high traffic area as the chip is right at one side of the seam in the center of the sink at the countertop edge. She is asking for a new slab but this would mean busting the seam at the sink and I have put an epoxy biscuit into the seam faces for strength so I am not sure how easily this will bust apart. The chip only goes back about 1/8 of an inch and so I think the easiest solution would be to use a cup wheel and hone off 1/8 from the entire front of the countertop and then polish it up but I havn't done this in a home and dust is an issue or I guess I could have a guy stand there with a squirt bottle and put a water dam on the floor and plastic to catch any spray. I wish I had some of your glue and I could have avoided this lol. You ever remove an eighth of an inch and polish five feet of countertop in a home? Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
@@GraniteByJay Okay thank you very much for the advice! By the way what is a soft scrub mixture and would I hook the scotch bright pad up to an electric polisher or just do it by hand?
@@beachhouse131 Hello. You can try soft scrub straight out of the bottle. But I always water it down a bit. Thats what I meant by mixture. And yes, you can cut a scotch bright pad to fit your 4" or 5" Velcro backer pad. Just start at low speed if you have a variable speed angle grinder.
@@GraniteByJay Awsome, thanks!!!!!!!