This is the same wiring setup on B5 Audi/VWs with Hitachi MAFs. Inspected the wires and thought something was busted when I saw the extra wire just dangling.
How would you reshield the wires ( ground and signal) if you happen to remove the shielding around them? And is a split shield somewhere along the wires affects the function of the section of shield?
It would depend on the situation. Usually, you would want to splice it back together with fresh wire. If you have a break in the shield, you would lose the shielding effect past where it's no longer grounded.
@@iwiresubaruwiringsolutions5538 so all my wires are intact but I have a break in the shield right in half. Meaning the top portion of the shield isn't connected to the bottom portion. But I have a drain wire down the whole shield. Would that function right or the two half's have to have contact?
@@iwiresubaruwiringsolutions5538 ok sounds good, I'll throw some foil tape on it and wrap it all up with electrical tape or some shrink wrap and I should be good then. Thank you 👍🏽
thank you for the video..i am installing a 2.2 ecotec engine in my 1984 alfa romeo spider.. and i am building a harness from the oem eco to the engine sensor plugs
I have a cable with 3 twisted pairs and each pair has a foil sheild and a drain wire. I only need one of the pairs protected. Can I just cut the other 2 drain wires at both ends and add a bit of shrink wrap to seal the drain wires not being used.
The ground only is supplied at one end of the wire not both. So in this case (and most of the time) the ECU supplies the ground so the plug at the sensor is the "end" of the circuit so the shield wire just needs to be terminated.
@@iwiresubaruwiringsolutions5538 - I'm just learning about auto wiring now and this video helped me alot. I bought an 07 ej20 NA from someone that did a rewire on the KS but did a terrible job since after they did it, the CEL keeps coming on with KS circuit high. Now I'm planning to rewire it myself, however, before I get myself in too deep, does the shield eventually split off to another pin on the harness? As I understand the signal and shield should not be touching at all.
@@NormanMyb Glad to hear that. Some knock sensors split the signal ground to the sensor itself and some don't. You would need to refer to the diagram for your model to confirm which type you have.
My A/C wall unit is newer and it has a bare wire wrapped in aluminum foil. It's made for "Safety." It also has a reset button on the plug. My dog bit through 2 places. I repaired it, but it will not work without the bare thin wire. I tried replacing the wire, to no avail.
Nice vid i subscribed. Only thing i would do different is put another piece of heat shrink tubing over the crimp, my crimping pliers seem to bite into the connectors a little too deep and im always paranoid there may still be an exposed spot after i heat it. Either just cheap pliers or im just paranoid lol
Would the shielding grounding fail cause a random p0340 for a cam sensor? Or is it more likely for the shield to contact the inner wire? My harness looks fine I have good continuity for both wires to the ecu. (New oem sensor and newer alternator are both in place)
The ECU generally supplies the ground. You want to make sure only 1 end of the wire is grounded. If you ground both ends, you create noise instead of a shield against noise.
This is the same wiring setup on B5 Audi/VWs with Hitachi MAFs. Inspected the wires and thought something was busted when I saw the extra wire just dangling.
Subaru's and Wiring. Best channel ever!
Excelent video mate! Great beard too. Bearded brotherhood :D
Thanks, this helped a lot with my GTR fuel pump wiring.
What happend of the shield wires, please? I didn't understand. Thanks.
How would you reshield the wires ( ground and signal) if you happen to remove the shielding around them? And is a split shield somewhere along the wires affects the function of the section of shield?
It would depend on the situation. Usually, you would want to splice it back together with fresh wire. If you have a break in the shield, you would lose the shielding effect past where it's no longer grounded.
@@iwiresubaruwiringsolutions5538 so all my wires are intact but I have a break in the shield right in half. Meaning the top portion of the shield isn't connected to the bottom portion. But I have a drain wire down the whole shield. Would that function right or the two half's have to have contact?
@@Az-elite If the drain wire is intact then you should be fine if you repair the outer jacket to seal things back up
@@iwiresubaruwiringsolutions5538 ok sounds good, I'll throw some foil tape on it and wrap it all up with electrical tape or some shrink wrap and I should be good then. Thank you 👍🏽
thank you for the video..i am installing a 2.2 ecotec engine in my 1984 alfa romeo spider.. and i am building a harness from the oem eco to the engine sensor plugs
Hello! where can i find the shielded wire? i need to buy some! thanks
I have a cable with 3 twisted pairs and each pair has a foil sheild and a drain wire. I only need one of the pairs protected. Can I just cut the other 2 drain wires at both ends and add a bit of shrink wrap to seal the drain wires not being used.
You don't have to connect the mesh shield to a ground at the connector?
The ground only is supplied at one end of the wire not both. So in this case (and most of the time) the ECU supplies the ground so the plug at the sensor is the "end" of the circuit so the shield wire just needs to be terminated.
@@iwiresubaruwiringsolutions5538 - I'm just learning about auto wiring now and this video helped me alot.
I bought an 07 ej20 NA from someone that did a rewire on the KS but did a terrible job since after they did it, the CEL keeps coming on with KS circuit high. Now I'm planning to rewire it myself, however, before I get myself in too deep, does the shield eventually split off to another pin on the harness? As I understand the signal and shield should not be touching at all.
@@NormanMyb Glad to hear that. Some knock sensors split the signal ground to the sensor itself and some don't. You would need to refer to the diagram for your model to confirm which type you have.
My A/C wall unit is newer and it has a bare wire wrapped in aluminum foil. It's made for "Safety." It also has a reset button on the plug. My dog bit through 2 places. I repaired it, but it will not work without the bare thin wire. I tried replacing the wire, to no avail.
Is 18-12ga coper wire necessary for automotive or CCA wire still work. I know from factory everything is copper.
Nice vid i subscribed. Only thing i would do different is put another piece of heat shrink tubing over the crimp, my crimping pliers seem to bite into the connectors a little too deep and im always paranoid there may still be an exposed spot after i heat it. Either just cheap pliers or im just paranoid lol
So what would happen if you if the shield wire and signal wire are touching
it would ground out the signal and cause the sensor to no longer function properly
Would the shielding grounding fail cause a random p0340 for a cam sensor? Or is it more likely for the shield to contact the inner wire? My harness looks fine I have good continuity for both wires to the ecu. (New oem sensor and newer alternator are both in place)
Did you resolve your issue?
i want this work
So you don't ground it to anything?
The ECU generally supplies the ground. You want to make sure only 1 end of the wire is grounded. If you ground both ends, you create noise instead of a shield against noise.
I wish I was shielded from that awful music. omg
The music so damn loud