You don't need to tape the holes, the plastic will take care of that by itself. Try elevating the items a couple of mm from the pegboard. Also, a hinge and a couple of metal latches would make it faster than screwing the frames together to hold the plastic sheet. Cool video BTW. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, Try it without covering the holes. Also, a little less heat and raise the molds up higher to take up the slack in the hot plastic. Use something as a riser. It should be a little wider than your mold. The webbing that you are getting is because the plastic sheet is either too hot or there is not enough mold for the sheet to form to.
I want to make a board like this too but might need to use smaller sheets of plastic, so in this video you taped off the areas that I would not need for the smaller plastics. I need one vacuum board but may use different sized plastic sheet holders, so taping off the areas I won't need is a great solution.
I saw in some other videos that they raised the mould about half an inch so that the plastic can wrap around the mound. I noticed that this video is a long time ago. Did you managed to get it working properly?
thanks for sharing your experiences with vacuum forming. Would the issues on the second attempt be alleviated with less vacuum pressure? Just curious. Keep us posted! I'd like to see what works!!
Yes, I think you're correct- second attempt went completely wrong coz by the time the pressure built up, PET was already cooling down and hardening... I think the best way is to have a vacuum tank with a quick release valve, but I've no space in my garage for that, or a heater box, so have to milk the situation with oven+hoover:))
On the one hand you over-engineered this thing but I have to credit how you took so much into account, it may not have worked as planned but you left few stones unturned. I want to see the video where you get this right because I'm contemplating a project also!
You need a valve to adjust suction pressure, low at first to slowly suck plastic down controllably and then high to get definition. Presently, you have way too much suction in the beginning, maybe throughout. Good luck!!
I've tried with lower suction (it's my hoover that I'm using:) and found it even worse coz that thin PET was cooling down way too quickly. I think it will work if I have something heating PET while pulling the air out. Oh well, still more tests to come, cheers!
+Paul Bignell It is PET. I got from Hobbyking (turbine parts section), but the thickest they have is 0.3mm, which is way too thin for my needs. I'll have to look for stuff elsewhere and rebuild my box coz it doesn't fit fully in the grill. It works, but not as good as I want to:)
Don't put on tape otherwise the air bubbles over the tape can't get out while trying to reach the holes and the plastic doesn't allow the bubbles to get out and you get deformations
ROBOFORCERX2000 You need to use PETG. PET will never work. I made all the same mistakes you did. I like the idea of the heat gun after the vac is on... I'm going to try that.
I did, but used it only once after. Following suggestions in the comments I raised the mold up a bit and didn't tape the holes, that's all there was. Also 0.3mm PET I used is good for nothing, just too flimsy, up to 1mm thickness is needed. And of course I need a heating box coz the top frame doesn't fit in my oven- I have to heat it with my oven open and keep on turning around:)
The plastic your using is to thin i use HIPS 1.5mm thick for my F550 canopys also you need to make a heating box to heat up the plastic evenly and make sure you lower the plastic down on the mould evenly without getting any kinks in the plastic
I too tape my board, not because you get a less even vacuum, because you don't, but the finish product looks better when you don't have the dimpling over your flats. Air will go where it needs to, its good like that.
ROBOFORCERX2000 I own a graphics company and we do a ton of sign work using this method. There are just a few minor things wrong that if you adjust you will have perfection every time. Get rid of that frame your using. There's no need to have that frame reaching over the sides like that. The time it takes to line that frame up to slide over the table could be 1-2 seconds however that short amount of time is long enough to allow the plastic to start to cool. Build another frame only this time when you build the bottom where the plex will sit, you need to rabbit it out so that the plex sits inside the rabbit and cant move around. On the bottom plate that holds your plex also place a rubber seal there so that when you drop it to the vacuum table you have rubber on rubber which gives you a air tight seal. Place rubber on both the bottom and top plate also so that when the plex is between them theres a rubber on rubber air tight seal there also. Again don't block off the holes around the project, this is the reason you are getting the veins. Your drawing all the air down to one area when it needs to be drawn down further out from the project. When you put the plex between the lower and upper plate that sits in the rabbit, the upper and bottom plates need to be either clamped together all around or screwed together. Again you dont want the plex to move. In other words the pulling edges need to be as stationary as possible. And dont do more then one project at a time. In this video you have 2 different things you are covering but they are not only 2 seperate items they are also 2 different heights. This will play a role in how the soft plex falls into place. So, this might all sound like a lot that you need to do in order to get it right. Buts its really all just minor adjustments and you will be off and running. And always have your vacuum running prior to the drop
ROBOFORCERX2000 Your very welcome. I want to see you succeed. Ill be making a video soon on my husband and I building one and using it probably this week if not next week. Might give you some better ideas
You don't need to tape the holes, the plastic will take care of that by itself. Try elevating the items a couple of mm from the pegboard. Also, a hinge and a couple of metal latches would make it faster than screwing the frames together to hold the plastic sheet. Cool video BTW. Thanks for sharing.
Hi,
Try it without covering the holes. Also, a little less heat and raise the molds up higher to take up the slack in the hot plastic. Use something as a riser. It should be a little wider than your mold. The webbing that you are getting is because the plastic sheet is either too hot or there is not enough mold for the sheet to form to.
Thank you for your video. Very interesting design of the mold frame. Cheers!
Thank you, friend. Your video has been very enlightening. Hugs. Raul / Brazil.
I want to make a board like this too but might need to use smaller sheets of plastic, so in this video you taped off the areas that I would not need for the smaller plastics. I need one vacuum board but may use different sized plastic sheet holders, so taping off the areas I won't need is a great solution.
"Hoover in the hole, plastic in The oven". Lol
love this design
Use 0,7-1,5mm HIPS (high impact poly styrene). You don't have to tape the vacuum board. Good luck.
I saw in some other videos that they raised the mould about half an inch so that the plastic can wrap around the mound.
I noticed that this video is a long time ago. Did you managed to get it working properly?
+Christopher Loh
Yeah man, it's working now, I took on board people's comments (about raising the mold as well) and got it working:)
+ROBOFORCERX2000 Nice to know it is working.
I wonder if you have more holes in your upper highest piece then it would gradually pull and seal as it goes down ? Im just guessing.
More likely yes:)
Nice build!
Thanks, just need to get it working properly:)
I think you ought to remove the tape. The uneven pull is what is causing the snots. I think you were doing right with the hot air gun.
thanks for sharing your experiences with vacuum forming. Would the issues on the second attempt be alleviated with less vacuum pressure? Just curious. Keep us posted! I'd like to see what works!!
Yes, I think you're correct- second attempt went completely wrong coz by the time the pressure built up, PET was already cooling down and hardening... I think the best way is to have a vacuum tank with a quick release valve, but I've no space in my garage for that, or a heater box, so have to milk the situation with oven+hoover:))
What is the minimum vacuum pressure of the vacuum cleaner.... For the suction
I have no clue:) I used a normal size vacuum and there was plenty of suction
it's good!
Where did you get the plastic from?
From Hobbyking. It is 0.3mm thickness PET which is clearly too thin for this.
On the one hand you over-engineered this thing but I have to credit how you took so much into account, it may not have worked as planned but you left few stones unturned. I want to see the video where you get this right because I'm contemplating a project also!
You need a valve to adjust suction pressure, low at first to slowly suck plastic down controllably and then high to get definition. Presently, you have way too much suction in the beginning, maybe throughout. Good luck!!
I've tried with lower suction (it's my hoover that I'm using:) and found it even worse coz that thin PET was cooling down way too quickly. I think it will work if I have something heating PET while pulling the air out. Oh well, still more tests to come, cheers!
Hi Robo Where are you getting the lexan from
+Paul Bignell
It is PET. I got from Hobbyking (turbine parts section), but the thickest they have is 0.3mm, which is way too thin for my needs. I'll have to look for stuff elsewhere and rebuild my box coz it doesn't fit fully in the grill. It works, but not as good as I want to:)
+ROBOFORCERX2000 thanx for the info and the reply
thank u for sharing
Don't put on tape otherwise the air bubbles over the tape can't get out while trying to reach the holes and the plastic doesn't allow the bubbles to get out and you get deformations
nice build! may i do a suggestion? your plastic material looks and sound very thin and flimsy! try a stronger material, or not that much heat!
You're right on this, PET that I had was way too thin. Well, it was my first forming, so now I know more what to do next:)
ROBOFORCERX2000 You need to use PETG. PET will never work. I made all the same mistakes you did. I like the idea of the heat gun after the vac is on... I'm going to try that.
Did you ever get it running right?
I did, but used it only once after. Following suggestions in the comments I raised the mold up a bit and didn't tape the holes, that's all there was. Also 0.3mm PET I used is good for nothing, just too flimsy, up to 1mm thickness is needed. And of course I need a heating box coz the top frame doesn't fit in my oven- I have to heat it with my oven open and keep on turning around:)
Oh lol well I'm thinking of giving it a go so will post some bids my self
Vids even
The plastic your using is to thin i use HIPS 1.5mm thick for my F550 canopys also you need to make a heating box to heat up the plastic evenly and make sure you lower the plastic down on the mould evenly without getting any kinks in the plastic
Cheers. will look into this HIPS, it was the first build/test anyway and now I know more what to do or not to do:)
Friend, this plastic is polypropylene?
It is PET, but the one I had was way too thin.
Thank you. Raul/Brazil.
Don't tape the holes
Комик. Сначала включай пылесос и жди пока он заработает на полную мощность! Только потом одевай пластик!
Nebepamenu kada skraidziau jau... Orai ne kazka, salta...
try using 0.5 pet
Don't tape over the holes.
the tape creates uneven suctioning (don't tape it) and the plastic is not evenly heated, this is what is causing your problem
I too tape my board, not because you get a less even vacuum, because you don't, but the finish product looks better when you don't have the dimpling over your flats. Air will go where it needs to, its good like that.
Don't tape the holes you aren't using
I got nearly every second comment suggesting me not to tape the holes and it's going on for a year since this video, but thanks anyway LOL
ROBOFORCERX2000 I own a graphics company and we do a ton of sign work using this method. There are just a few minor things wrong that if you adjust you will have perfection every time.
Get rid of that frame your using. There's no need to have that frame reaching over the sides like that. The time it takes to line that frame up to slide over the table could be 1-2 seconds however that short amount of time is long enough to allow the plastic to start to cool.
Build another frame only this time when you build the bottom where the plex will sit, you need to rabbit it out so that the plex sits inside the rabbit and cant move around. On the bottom plate that holds your plex also place a rubber seal there so that when you drop it to the vacuum table you have rubber on rubber which gives you a air tight seal. Place rubber on both the bottom and top plate also so that when the plex is between them theres a rubber on rubber air tight seal there also. Again don't block off the holes around the project, this is the reason you are getting the veins. Your drawing all the air down to one area when it needs to be drawn down further out from the project. When you put the plex between the lower and upper plate that sits in the rabbit, the upper and bottom plates need to be either clamped together all around or screwed together. Again you dont want the plex to move. In other words the pulling edges need to be as stationary as possible. And dont do more then one project at a time. In this video you have 2 different things you are covering but they are not only 2 seperate items they are also 2 different heights. This will play a role in how the soft plex falls into place. So, this might all sound like a lot that you need to do in order to get it right. Buts its really all just minor adjustments and you will be off and running. And always have your vacuum running prior to the drop
Michelle Sullivan That's a lot of useful info, thank you!
ROBOFORCERX2000 Your very welcome. I want to see you succeed. Ill be making a video soon on my husband and I building one and using it probably this week if not next week. Might give you some better ideas
I wish I knew exactly what you're talking about here because I'm going to need to understand it too!
uh tha tha thu thu thu thu thu thu themesong for frustration
with all that snot i think you need a tissue...lol
NO EQUAL HEATTING TO THE MATERIAL...
Wtf