Thank you for watching! Your feedback really means a lot to me. If you're interested in these drivers, check em out here 👉Tweeter - bit.ly/TD20F-4 Woofer - bit.ly/TCP115-8
I follow a couple people for speaker system builds, and you sir, deserve much more followers. The others have shops with equipment that most of us can’t afford- but they still give great technical info. You fill that gap for me. Still great technical info, but in a easier to understand way. The “Home gamer” aspect is also nice, since it’s more within my realm of possibility. Keep up the good work!
Nice to see you make sense out of topics that are a bit complicated for folks with little or no experience. Your recent series on the build process has cleared up so much for me. Thank you!
Just trying to be friendly: To determine if this is a good driver or not, It's necessary to look at the THD/distortion graph as well, flat frequency response isn't everything. Especially when you are trying to find the optimal crossover frequency. It is also recommended to measure the frequency response in different dispersion angles, to be able to match the crossover frequency to the woofer. :)
I was going to add a similar response , then I saw yours :-). Yes, the THD graph should give a pretty good idea of how low the tweeter can be taken. Off-center measurements of both the tweeter and the woofer will give a good idea of where the crossover point should be (the point being to find the frequency where the dispersion of the tweeter and the woofer are a decent match). For one meter measurements (used for x-over design), best approach I've found is to use a 1.25 meter rod and to use it to make sure there is NOTHING within 1.25 meters of the device being measured (it being mounted on a four foot stand), and another meter rod to make sure the distance between the device and the mic - easier to use rods for this rather than pulling out the measuring tape :-).
It would be nice to also consider drivers for most popular speaker types as well - portable like B&O, soundbar like Sonos, bookshelf like Harman, etc. Most of the beginners you are talking about really like to build a DIY version of these speakers. I really struggled in my initial days to understand limitations and do a build. Would be cool if you can cover this as well.
Thanks Kirby, love the vids. And ignore some of the more critical people who comment on your vids. You're obviously having alot of fun and making beautiful speakers and that's the most important part.
@@KirbyMeetsAudio how does the hide button work? I once left a neg comment to record-o-logy about a toy Elvis record player being crap, from there on he hasn't replied or liked my comments since, he probably has put me on the hidden list or he ignores me. He once said we don't engage with the trolls
I built my speakers when I was 16 working a boat yard.. (1975) I built two cabinets based on University speakers with a folded horn. 12 inch woofers, dome midrange and tweeter.
Hi Mr. Kirby, just an observation; by the time has passed watching your videos, i see a transformation from a maker to a salesman, nothing personal, i know there are bills to pay. Still enjoy watching your videos. hope you get well soon. greetings from Colombia.
It is enough to look at this tweeter from behind, at its dwarf magnet, at a resonant frequency of 1600Hz, to understand - that it is suitable only for a modest 3-way speakers from 5 kHz, and in a 3-way speakers of modest size and power.
just got my hands on an old MHC - RG88 sony stereo and the tweeters are blown, (not just one all of it) so now im searching for a similar or better tweeter for the 4 speakers
So, you could take the data you got from the woofer and tweeter tests, and adjust the components of your crossover to match? It would be interesting to see the difference between the "on-paper" crossover design vs the "field test" design vs the "it sounds good to me" design.
You totally can, but I didn't set up these tests with that intent. I would have done them differently if that was my goal. I'm going to redo these tests when the enclosures are finished and compare the difference in the crossover I came up with using the FRDs provided compared to me own. Thanks for watching!
That's kind of what I meant. I realize you're doing these tests for display purposes. I think it might be good to point out that you can use this data for something practical, other than just saying "hmm, that's nice. I like that driver."
I have a question for you. Since budget videos are your most popular. Why can't someone take 6x9s from their car stereo system and then build boxes for them to get a good sounding speaker? I ask because a long time ago I was helping someone deliver building materials to a house under construction or remodel. The carpenter there had two speakers built from recycled wood from his work sites. They sounded amazingly good. When I say good I mean they had a lot of bass for what they were. They obviously had a lot of highs and overall just impressed me. The only thing I didn't care for were the look of his DIY speakers. They looked just awful. If he could have spent some time and money on the cabinets I would have bought them off his hands. I asked the guy about them and all he said was they were "L-ports with insulation on the inside." He really didn't say must more and I didn't feel he had the extra time to chit chat so I let him alone wondering how long it would take me to build his speakers with better materials. For 6x9s they were 80's sized bookshelf speakers and not true bookshelf size. They had some size to them. So why can't people just build with their car audio gear?
Many people can hear higher than 20k Hz and that I wonder why not more talk about, I tested it with some friends and some could hear to almost 30k Hz. I did a blind test on it
I built a subwoofer for my home theater system using a Dayton 15 inch sub. It sounds amazing!! I now want to build a custom center channel speaker that will be wall mounted underneath my 82 inch TV. The speaker will be approximately 48inches with eight mids and a tweeter. Any suggestions on a good tweeter to use, dayton or otherwise?
My issue is what is my max Wattage a tweeter and midrange can be to replace in my Ilive ITB382 soundbar?? Thanks for the videos, they’re helping me understand a bit more.
Hey Kirby Great vid as usual.. That size comparising of the TD20F to the `full size` was pretty `baffeling` (get it?) XD Can you give me a short explanation as to why the TD20F 3/4" is so much smaller than the 1" `full size` tweeter pls ? Peace from Denmark :)
Haha! Nice. The overall diameter difference? The main reason is the full-size tweeter uses a ferrite magnet to move the dome rather than neodymium. Ferrite speaker magnets are much larger than neodymium so they need the space. Thanks for watching!
Right gotcha dude. I was just wondering about the overall housing size difference.. FYI Thanx to you, i now have the courage to convert my vintage pair of Bang & Olufsen TV speakers to use them as front speakers for my 5.1 surround system. Meaning they need new cabinets instead of the plastic cabs they were made in :) Thx again mate :)
Hey, Kirby - really enjoy the vids where you test speaker components, such as this video. Objective testing of speaker components is almost entirely lacking on UA-cam. I'd suggest setting up a standard measurement area, so the results of each test could be compared to previous tests. And, of course, measurements of your finished speakers would be great. Thanks! >Charlie
I'm looking for some drivers for a 2 way speaker to fill large room with decent lows for the size and clear and detailed highs without being too harsh. And not breaking the bank?
Hi 👋 I am looking for some aluminum cone mid bass and woofer drivers.. any recommendations? I’m hoping for Dayton audio brand.. I also need a good tweeter to go with the mid bass and woofer drivers.
Hi, I really like your work!. Do you think, this speakers can be used in a Home Theater array (Some HT in a box uses the same speakers for the fronts and surrounds).
Thanks for sharing your tests! I'm concerned about all the low frequencies coming into those measurements though. It makes me wonder if that 3khz-ish spike is actually background noise and not frequencies being produced by the tweeter, given the amount of noise in the lower frequencies which certainly are not being produced by this driver. I'd love to see results of a similar test comparing this to a titanium dome in a more controlled environment.
A more controlled environment is coming soon! I don't think thats the case. The hump is mostly coming from the baffle setup I was using. All the low frequencies you see are much lower than the amplitude of the high frequencies coming from the tweeter. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried the JBL DT150 horn tweeter or the PRV equivalent on PEs site there's a $20 difference don't know if the $20 is a waste or extra money well spent...
Hey Kirby, Im planning to build a portable bluetooth boom box and ordered 2 of the TCP115-8 ohm and was wondering which tweeter would fill a room nicely with decent sound as well and which amp would you recommend for my type of build? Thank you in advance!
Hi man, good video btw... Man look I have this wireless amplifier tpa3116 board 2*120w, you can make a video building some wireless speakers with that amp please?
hey Kirby I'm currently building a speaker set from salvaged parts. any tips on how to test/rate the salvaged parts without your fancy equipment? I'll be using your crossover video for reference later.
I'll be doing a video on this soon, but I don't know of a way to design around salvaged drivers other than just guessing or using something like the DATS system. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! yes I've been just using aligator clips and testing how each driver sounds and "grouping" them. I made a 2.1 in a box a few years ago for my grandpa's pc, using 2 PC speaker drivers and adding a salvaged car 4" woofer below as a LFE. Sounded quite good for being basically made from scrap wood and salvaged components.
I think i know why the whole "budget" videos work better. Most of us are middle to low class people, not rich kids that spend all their day taking selfies and being instawhores. But we like nice things and watch youtube videos that aren't about "prank gone wrong with my little sister while playing fortnite NAKED" . Problem is, we can't or don't want to spend 700$ just because there's written some fancy name on it. While components might only cost them around 100$. That's a damn fat profit for close to no work. So therefore, we look for alternatives, no brand name "tax", good parts "directly from the source" and therefore a bit cheaper.
Today, all the DYI within audio is just an expensive hobby. You will never get cheaper than with used speakers/amp/whatever form well known brands/marks. Not even with less than 10$ per woofer/tweeter.
Sorry for the long post and the blablabla. No need to read it, just had some spare time and thought i'd give as much info as i could? hehehe My point is, i don't mind used things, but i'd rather have it all new. So if it doesn't work or has issues, it's my fault, not some other guy that "scammed" me by selling me some broken crap. And there comes the whole price thing. New speakers with brand name, 500$. New speakers without brand name and needs some diy, 250$. DIY (do it yourself, but i think it was just a typo, and no my writing isn't perfect, it's just that i made that same typo many times myself) :P But yeah it's not cheap, and it takes time, time is money, in theory... Used products are obviously "the way to go" if you find the right seller. After looking around the internet for a bit over 6 months now and finding some good sites with good products that aren't too expensive. I still feel like it will end up being cheaper, even with the time spent making them. But i'm no expert, neither in one thing or another :P I've just always seen really good products being... not just expensive, but really expensive. But since most of us just use a pc or a phone connected to an amp and then speakers, most of us won't hear the difference between a 2000$ setup and a 500$ one (other than the fact that the 2000$ one will most likely be able to play louder without distortion etc...). But building something that sounds like 2000$ seems to be possible with around 700$ and some "spare time". From what i can see and find. I make my own usb/hdmi cables, i make my own light systems in my house from parts that i buy myself, switches, "control panel" with light, fans, or whatever, and if i had to buy some "fancy" brand thing that can do the same, i'd usually end up paying at least twice as much and way more to get it installed. Obviously, i can't build a tv or an oven :P But you get the idea i think. Right now i have a pair of Cerwin Vega speakers (really like them) with a Sony receiver that i got for under half the price and it all looks, and sounds brand new (otherwise i wouldn't have bought it). It would have cost me over 1000$ for these things new. After looking online, i think i could build something with as good sound quality for around the same price i paid for these (around 400$). The thing is, the ones i bought, were used, the ones i would build, would be new... but for the same price. (And some spare time), and like i said, if they break (buying used ones) i will feel like i got scammed, if i break the ones i built myself with brand new parts, i'll just see myself as an idiot :P Once again, i'm no expert, but when i look at 2 things that seem to be pretty similar but one cost 3 times as much if not more, i just start asking questions. And big companies have machines to build their stuff and they have lower taxes if any taxes at all for that matter, so i just don't get why prices are so insanely high, 250$ of material assembled by a machine ends up at +1000$ retail... that just seems like an insanely high margin of profit to me, for... close to no work? Then again i live in a country with some of the highest taxes. And many things that i could buy in the US for 1000$ will be close to 2000$ where i live. A 80,000$ car in the US would cost close to 250,000 here... even if it was produced just 500 miles from where i live. So yeahhhh :P Maybe one day i'll come back here and post a video of my setup, the one i will build some day when i know enough about it, and have the time and money for it. I love these things, and if i can save some money while getting as good of a result, then it's even better. I guess taxes on finished products make things expensive here. I don't know, maybe i should go look into that so i can understand the, why when and how. Ps: when i say similar quality, i'm not going to go to "best buy" and buy a "2000watt" subwoofer for 80$ and then say "hey i also got 2000w but i only paid 80$ and 800$" Quality on such cheap things is just crap ;)
Oh...I mistyped DIY...sorry...it was early in the morning... Yes, you are right with your opinion. I was pointing out different aspect. We are all kind of freaks with twist to improve our technical stuff. I have personal experience of having difficulties to sell my own quite good DIY bookshelves. Being DIY, even providing lost of measurements/graphs was not enough to push price at least to sum price of components w/o box. And it did not happen once and as components I am now considering to use are not cheap at all, it is more profitable to buy something branded what will keep at least some price over the years Maybe the situation in your country is different, but where I live anything what is DIY is considered as crap no matter what.
That bump you see does not belong to the tweeter you are measuring but to the baffle. Beranek and Olson have explained the baffle refraction of point source type of direct radiators in their text books in the mid 50s. Please avoid delivering misleading information.
Misleading? When did I say the bump was from the tweeter alone? Of course the bump was caused by the baffle, any changes from just moving the mic back will be caused by outside influences.
Kirby Meets Audio I think the only thing that is more complicated to do would be the crossover for the midrange-driver.... But i think for that i could use a bandpass filter (i don‘t know the english word for bandpass)
Kirby Meets Audio thank you very much for the fast response. I‘m going to read trough the text and looking at your „speakerbuild get started video“ a second time
You are actually correct, the term is bandpass in english as it denotes the use of a highpass and a low pass filter to create a band of frequencies. So in a 3 way, the Woofer is filtered using a Lowpass, the Mid range is filtered with a bandpass and the high/Tweeter is filtered with a Highpass filter.
off course it twists , and rattles , hence the more expensive kevlar titanium thing design , while on stereo imagining ,wow someone put a lot of panning in the strings in soundtrack its spining around my head , more like left to right but you get the pic
Probably will buy this tweeters for desktop bookshelf 5.1, I hate this HORRIBLE Piezoelectric tweeters, in fact the 2 way speaker I bought recently is just big and dumb, it sounds miles worse than my gaming Logitech Z5500 single smaller speaker with plastic enclosure... But they are nice for a project build, will start buying 2 tweeters or 3, the rear speakers already sound kinda good as they are the big tower speakers that were supposed to be front but due to lack of space sadly they are the rear surround speakers :(. So I really need to fix this super nasty muffled muddy front bookshelf speakers... With Z5500 a FPS simulator with real nice sound effects REALLY sound like I'm in the middle of a war and now with the bigger speakers it sound like I'm in the middle of the war with cans on my ears FFS :(. EDIT: However the sensitivity of those Tweeters are far higher than my speakers, is there a way to drop DB level on them without having to be in the equalizer by reducing treble??? I want to use just a cap as crossover as I want the cheapest way to go, is there something else I can add to make the tweeter drop DB sensitivity a bit?
Kirby, like your videos and keep up the good work. How about an A/B comparison between the less expensive versus the next level up? If I doubled the amount I spent on the tweeter how much better will it sound?
Id consider myself an audiophile But i dont understand these Idiots that think that they have to have Insanely expensive crap to get good sound. When im listening to a speaker that I built I listen to it for the quality it has not the quality that it doesn't... Yes Its nice to have really expensive equitment But this tweeter sounds Amazing for how cheap it is!
I bought two of these tweeters to "try them out" with my Micca MB-42XC speakers I used as a stereo pair in my bedroom. They're really decent in SQ and are an exact match for the OEM tweeters. I wonder how they'd behave with a waveguide mounted on them?
HELLO RECENTLY BUY THE TWOETER Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4 OF 4 OHM AND THE WOOFER Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4 OF 4 OHM. CAN YOU HELP ME WITH THE VALUES THAT THE IDEAL CROSSOVER SHOULD CARRY FOR THIS COUPLE? I WANT TO BUILD IT I THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR HELP
I'm building a new speakers. and since i'm limited in space on the floor. I want to build 2 decent ceiling speakers. would I get a better bass if I use 2 identical woofers in the same enclosure ? or box if you will ?
Here in Germany the soundbooks ja very popular , hows about a Build vlog with a battery powererd Speaker with the volume and soundquality like the Soundboks or better?
Great videos and a relaxed atmosphere! You often test speakers for various DIY projects. Can you test Dayton / Manacor ready crossovers, which include Parts Express or SoundImport, among others? Most of us can't calculate a crossover, but we buy a finished one. Try a complete crossover with the speakers you talk about in this video.
Are you talking about a coaxial? Everything in speaker design is specific to the components used. So if you replace the woofer in a store bought speaker, the crossover is no longer designed for that driver. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll sound great, but theres really no way of knowing unless you do the calculations first or someone has already made the swap in their system.
right basically using higher grade components of the same parameters or close but using higher quality parts. would i see a substantial increase in sound quality .im very green to all of this just trying to learn what would work and whats not worth trying i guess.
If you're talking about crossover components on a store bought budget bookshelf speaker, yeah, you'll probably hear a difference since most of those systems use really crapy components on a PCB behind the terminal plate. If you're talking about the drivers themselves, reference back to my first comment, you probably wont find higher quality components with the same TS perimeters. And I don't know what you're talking about with concentric speakers. Most speakers are concentric. Do you mean coaxial?
ok i have a misunderstanding of concentric i basing my interpretation of concentric on the Tannoy style speakers how the tweeter is placed inside the mid driver or woofer pleases excuse my ignorance.
Soft dome tweeter tend to muffled out poor quality electronic that can cause harsh highs, while metallic dome has better resolution. Not all soft dome are actually soft, some are like fabric instead of silk. Small dome size tweeter has better dispersion, better high extension but need higher frequency HPF or will distort easily, best paired with a mid range or a small size woofer that can do LPF and higher frequency without distortion. From the graph, I will choose minimum of 5khz 12db/oct, or 6khz when paired with a good small woofer that can cover higher frequency.
Thank you for watching! Your feedback really means a lot to me. If you're interested in these drivers, check em out here 👉Tweeter - bit.ly/TD20F-4 Woofer - bit.ly/TCP115-8
i dont understand, what is the difference between hard dome and soft dome tweeters?
I follow a couple people for speaker system builds, and you sir, deserve much more followers. The others have shops with equipment that most of us can’t afford- but they still give great technical info. You fill that gap for me. Still great technical info, but in a easier to understand way. The “Home gamer” aspect is also nice, since it’s more within my realm of possibility.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks so much! That means a lot. Thats exactly what I'm trying to do. Thanks for watching!
Nice to see you make sense out of topics that are a bit complicated for folks with little or no experience. Your recent series on the build process has cleared up so much for me. Thank you!
I'm glad youre getting some value out of them! Thanks for watching!
Just trying to be friendly: To determine if this is a good driver or not, It's necessary to look at the THD/distortion graph as well, flat frequency response isn't everything. Especially when you are trying to find the optimal crossover frequency. It is also recommended to measure the frequency response in different dispersion angles, to be able to match the crossover frequency to the woofer. :)
Agreed! The tests will get better with time. Thanks for watching!
Awesome! I'm looking forward to the build, your channel is great.
I was going to add a similar response , then I saw yours :-). Yes, the THD graph should give a pretty good idea of how low the tweeter can be taken. Off-center measurements of both the tweeter and the woofer will give a good idea of where the crossover point should be (the point being to find the frequency where the dispersion of the tweeter and the woofer are a decent match). For one meter measurements (used for x-over design), best approach I've found is to use a 1.25 meter rod and to use it to make sure there is NOTHING within 1.25 meters of the device being measured (it being mounted on a four foot stand), and another meter rod to make sure the distance between the device and the mic - easier to use rods for this rather than pulling out the measuring tape :-).
It would be nice to also consider drivers for most popular speaker types as well - portable like B&O, soundbar like Sonos, bookshelf like Harman, etc. Most of the beginners you are talking about really like to build a DIY version of these speakers.
I really struggled in my initial days to understand limitations and do a build.
Would be cool if you can cover this as well.
I wish we could get drivers for that price here in the uk. Parts express really load the shipping costs to here
Same with Aus
@@enbee_ash6740 Fellow Aussie, I got the micca speakers on Amazon Prime for $88 with this type tweeter
Use soundimports they are pretty good
Thanks Kirby, love the vids. And ignore some of the more critical people who comment on your vids. You're obviously having alot of fun and making beautiful speakers and that's the most important part.
Thank you! Yeah, I learned a long time ago to ignore people. Also the "hide" button is my best friend. Thanks for watching!
@@KirbyMeetsAudio how does the hide button work? I once left a neg comment to record-o-logy about a toy Elvis record player being crap, from there on he hasn't replied or liked my comments since, he probably has put me on the hidden list or he ignores me. He once said we don't engage with the trolls
Hey Kirby very happy to see u again with something new and interesting about speakers
Thanks for watching!
I built my speakers when I was 16 working a boat yard.. (1975)
I built two cabinets based on University speakers with a folded horn. 12 inch woofers, dome midrange and tweeter.
Hi Mr. Kirby, just an observation; by the time has passed watching your videos, i see a transformation from a maker to a salesman, nothing personal, i know there are bills to pay. Still enjoy watching your videos.
hope you get well soon.
greetings from Colombia.
Love your work keep it up!!
I wil! Thank you for watching!
I study Electrical engineering and your videos have teached me things in would never learn at Uni
It is enough to look at this tweeter from behind, at its dwarf magnet, at a resonant frequency of 1600Hz, to understand - that it is suitable only for a modest 3-way speakers from 5 kHz, and in a 3-way speakers of modest size and power.
just got my hands on an old MHC - RG88 sony stereo and the tweeters are blown, (not just one all of it) so now im searching for a similar or better tweeter for the 4 speakers
So, you could take the data you got from the woofer and tweeter tests, and adjust the components of your crossover to match? It would be interesting to see the difference between the "on-paper" crossover design vs the "field test" design vs the "it sounds good to me" design.
You totally can, but I didn't set up these tests with that intent. I would have done them differently if that was my goal. I'm going to redo these tests when the enclosures are finished and compare the difference in the crossover I came up with using the FRDs provided compared to me own. Thanks for watching!
That's kind of what I meant. I realize you're doing these tests for display purposes. I think it might be good to point out that you can use this data for something practical, other than just saying "hmm, that's nice. I like that driver."
Love the vid boyo, keep up the great stuff
Thanks!
I have a question for you. Since budget videos are your most popular. Why can't someone take 6x9s from their car stereo system and then build boxes for them to get a good sounding speaker? I ask because a long time ago I was helping someone deliver building materials to a house under construction or remodel. The carpenter there had two speakers built from recycled wood from his work sites. They sounded amazingly good. When I say good I mean they had a lot of bass for what they were. They obviously had a lot of highs and overall just impressed me. The only thing I didn't care for were the look of his DIY speakers. They looked just awful. If he could have spent some time and money on the cabinets I would have bought them off his hands. I asked the guy about them and all he said was they were "L-ports with insulation on the inside." He really didn't say must more and I didn't feel he had the extra time to chit chat so I let him alone wondering how long it would take me to build his speakers with better materials. For 6x9s they were 80's sized bookshelf speakers and not true bookshelf size. They had some size to them. So why can't people just build with their car audio gear?
Many people can hear higher than 20k Hz and that I wonder why not more talk about, I tested it with some friends and some could hear to almost 30k Hz. I did a blind test on it
In the $30-40 range: Vifa silk, ring tweeter or Peerless HD.
I built a subwoofer for my home theater system using a Dayton 15 inch sub. It sounds amazing!! I now want to build a custom center channel speaker that will be wall mounted underneath my 82 inch TV. The speaker will be approximately 48inches with eight mids and a tweeter. Any suggestions on a good tweeter to use, dayton or otherwise?
My issue is what is my max Wattage a tweeter and midrange can be to replace in my Ilive ITB382 soundbar??
Thanks for the videos, they’re helping me understand a bit more.
Hi! Can i make a pair of speakers from $100? thinking big like at least 8-9 inch woofers
Hey Kirby Great vid as usual.. That size comparising of the TD20F to the `full size` was pretty `baffeling` (get it?) XD Can you give me a short explanation as to why the TD20F 3/4" is so much smaller than the 1" `full size` tweeter pls ? Peace from Denmark :)
Haha! Nice. The overall diameter difference? The main reason is the full-size tweeter uses a ferrite magnet to move the dome rather than neodymium. Ferrite speaker magnets are much larger than neodymium so they need the space. Thanks for watching!
Right gotcha dude. I was just wondering about the overall housing size difference.. FYI Thanx to you, i now have the courage to convert my vintage pair of Bang & Olufsen TV speakers to use them as front speakers for my 5.1 surround system. Meaning they need new cabinets instead of the plastic cabs they were made in :) Thx again mate :)
elCaxi1971 , it's not only the 1/4 inch difference but it's mostly the baffle mounting plate is why there is the difference you mentioned.
Hi Kirby, great video.
Would be interesting to se a realy good tweeter compared to the one you are testing. Is that possible?
Truls
Hey, Kirby - really enjoy the vids where you test speaker components, such as this video. Objective testing of speaker components is almost entirely lacking on UA-cam. I'd suggest setting up a standard measurement area, so the results of each test could be compared to previous tests. And, of course, measurements of your finished speakers would be great. Thanks! >Charlie
Agreed! Building a better space right now. Thanks for watching!
I've used this tweeter. Very good tweeter. It's a part of the Micaa MB-42 speaker system, and it has a good response when matched with a 4" driver
Dear Edward I am personally thankful to you for sharing such a valuable information. Love from India.
I'm looking for some drivers for a 2 way speaker to fill large room with decent lows for the size and clear and detailed highs without being too harsh. And not breaking the bank?
My DIY budget system with 4 wide bandwidth drivers and a sub is built into my headboard...
Which program do you prefer? Xsim? or Passive crossover designer?
Hi 👋 I am looking for some aluminum cone mid bass and woofer drivers.. any recommendations? I’m hoping for Dayton audio brand.. I also need a good tweeter to go with the mid bass and woofer drivers.
Can I open a polk swimmer blue tooth speaker and make it bigger and add another speaker.please and thanks
where is time response , i cant say much about quality with that chart , loks good :)
Hi, I really like your work!.
Do you think, this speakers can be used in a Home Theater array (Some HT in a box uses the same speakers for the fronts and surrounds).
Is it system building or speaker building
Thanks for sharing your tests! I'm concerned about all the low frequencies coming into those measurements though. It makes me wonder if that 3khz-ish spike is actually background noise and not frequencies being produced by the tweeter, given the amount of noise in the lower frequencies which certainly are not being produced by this driver. I'd love to see results of a similar test comparing this to a titanium dome in a more controlled environment.
A more controlled environment is coming soon! I don't think thats the case. The hump is mostly coming from the baffle setup I was using. All the low frequencies you see are much lower than the amplitude of the high frequencies coming from the tweeter. Thanks for watching!
Just curious, is this tweeter and the budget driver the same setup as the mk402?? Looks exactly the same
Have you tried the JBL DT150 horn tweeter or the PRV equivalent on PEs site there's a $20 difference don't know if the $20 is a waste or extra money well spent...
Hey Kirby, Im planning to build a portable bluetooth boom box and ordered 2 of the TCP115-8 ohm and was wondering which tweeter would fill a room nicely with decent sound as well and which amp would you recommend for my type of build? Thank you in advance!
Hi man, good video btw... Man look I have this wireless amplifier tpa3116 board 2*120w, you can make a video building some wireless speakers with that amp please?
hey Kirby I'm currently building a speaker set from salvaged parts. any tips on how to test/rate the salvaged parts without your fancy equipment? I'll be using your crossover video for reference later.
I'll be doing a video on this soon, but I don't know of a way to design around salvaged drivers other than just guessing or using something like the DATS system. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! yes I've been just using aligator clips and testing how each driver sounds and "grouping" them. I made a 2.1 in a box a few years ago for my grandpa's pc, using 2 PC speaker drivers and adding a salvaged car 4" woofer below as a LFE. Sounded quite good for being basically made from scrap wood and salvaged components.
thanks
I think i know why the whole "budget" videos work better. Most of us are middle to low class people, not rich kids that spend all their day taking selfies and being instawhores. But we like nice things and watch youtube videos that aren't about "prank gone wrong with my little sister while playing fortnite NAKED" . Problem is, we can't or don't want to spend 700$ just because there's written some fancy name on it. While components might only cost them around 100$. That's a damn fat profit for close to no work.
So therefore, we look for alternatives, no brand name "tax", good parts "directly from the source" and therefore a bit cheaper.
Today, all the DYI within audio is just an expensive hobby. You will never get cheaper than with used speakers/amp/whatever form well known brands/marks. Not even with less than 10$ per woofer/tweeter.
Sorry for the long post and the blablabla. No need to read it, just had some spare time and thought i'd give as much info as i could? hehehe My point is, i don't mind used things, but i'd rather have it all new. So if it doesn't work or has issues, it's my fault, not some other guy that "scammed" me by selling me some broken crap. And there comes the whole price thing. New speakers with brand name, 500$. New speakers without brand name and needs some diy, 250$.
DIY (do it yourself, but i think it was just a typo, and no my writing isn't perfect, it's just that i made that same typo many times myself) :P But yeah it's not cheap, and it takes time, time is money, in theory... Used products are obviously "the way to go" if you find the right seller. After looking around the internet for a bit over 6 months now and finding some good sites with good products that aren't too expensive. I still feel like it will end up being cheaper, even with the time spent making them. But i'm no expert, neither in one thing or another :P
I've just always seen really good products being... not just expensive, but really expensive. But since most of us just use a pc or a phone connected to an amp and then speakers, most of us won't hear the difference between a 2000$ setup and a 500$ one (other than the fact that the 2000$ one will most likely be able to play louder without distortion etc...). But building something that sounds like 2000$ seems to be possible with around 700$ and some "spare time". From what i can see and find.
I make my own usb/hdmi cables, i make my own light systems in my house from parts that i buy myself, switches, "control panel" with light, fans, or whatever, and if i had to buy some "fancy" brand thing that can do the same, i'd usually end up paying at least twice as much and way more to get it installed. Obviously, i can't build a tv or an oven :P But you get the idea i think.
Right now i have a pair of Cerwin Vega speakers (really like them) with a Sony receiver that i got for under half the price and it all looks, and sounds brand new (otherwise i wouldn't have bought it). It would have cost me over 1000$ for these things new. After looking online, i think i could build something with as good sound quality for around the same price i paid for these (around 400$). The thing is, the ones i bought, were used, the ones i would build, would be new... but for the same price. (And some spare time), and like i said, if they break (buying used ones) i will feel like i got scammed, if i break the ones i built myself with brand new parts, i'll just see myself as an idiot :P
Once again, i'm no expert, but when i look at 2 things that seem to be pretty similar but one cost 3 times as much if not more, i just start asking questions. And big companies have machines to build their stuff and they have lower taxes if any taxes at all for that matter, so i just don't get why prices are so insanely high, 250$ of material assembled by a machine ends up at +1000$ retail... that just seems like an insanely high margin of profit to me, for... close to no work? Then again i live in a country with some of the highest taxes. And many things that i could buy in the US for 1000$ will be close to 2000$ where i live. A 80,000$ car in the US would cost close to 250,000 here... even if it was produced just 500 miles from where i live. So yeahhhh :P
Maybe one day i'll come back here and post a video of my setup, the one i will build some day when i know enough about it, and have the time and money for it. I love these things, and if i can save some money while getting as good of a result, then it's even better.
I guess taxes on finished products make things expensive here. I don't know, maybe i should go look into that so i can understand the, why when and how.
Ps: when i say similar quality, i'm not going to go to "best buy" and buy a "2000watt" subwoofer for 80$ and then say "hey i also got 2000w but i only paid 80$ and 800$" Quality on such cheap things is just crap ;)
Oh...I mistyped DIY...sorry...it was early in the morning...
Yes, you are right with your opinion. I was pointing out different aspect. We are all kind of freaks with twist to improve our technical stuff. I have personal experience of having difficulties to sell my own quite good DIY bookshelves. Being DIY, even providing lost of measurements/graphs was not enough to push price at least to sum price of components w/o box. And it did not happen once and as components I am now considering to use are not cheap at all, it is more profitable to buy something branded what will keep at least some price over the years
Maybe the situation in your country is different, but where I live anything what is DIY is considered as crap no matter what.
That bump you see does not belong to the tweeter you are measuring but to the baffle. Beranek and Olson have explained the baffle refraction of point source type of direct radiators in their text books in the mid 50s. Please avoid delivering misleading information.
Misleading? When did I say the bump was from the tweeter alone? Of course the bump was caused by the baffle, any changes from just moving the mic back will be caused by outside influences.
Hey kirby.... will it make any sense if i build a 3 way speaker? I want to make some big ones....
Sure! Designing a 3-way system is just more complicated than a 2-way. Thanks for watching!
Kirby Meets Audio I think the only thing that is more complicated to do would be the crossover for the midrange-driver.... But i think for that i could use a bandpass filter (i don‘t know the english word for bandpass)
No, thats not how 3-way systems are designed. Here's a good article to get you started: www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tutorial/DesignBuildCrossover/
Kirby Meets Audio thank you very much for the fast response. I‘m going to read trough the text and looking at your „speakerbuild get started video“ a second time
You are actually correct, the term is bandpass in english as it denotes the use of a highpass and a low pass filter to create a band of frequencies. So in a 3 way, the Woofer is filtered using a Lowpass, the Mid range is filtered with a bandpass and the high/Tweeter is filtered with a Highpass filter.
off course it twists , and rattles , hence the more expensive kevlar titanium thing design , while on stereo imagining ,wow someone put a lot of panning in the strings in soundtrack its spining around my head , more like left to right but you get the pic
What is the value capacitor (uF) for this tweeter?
the micca 8 ohm tweeter uses 3.3uF
Probably will buy this tweeters for desktop bookshelf 5.1, I hate this HORRIBLE Piezoelectric tweeters, in fact the 2 way speaker I bought recently is just big and dumb, it sounds miles worse than my gaming Logitech Z5500 single smaller speaker with plastic enclosure... But they are nice for a project build, will start buying 2 tweeters or 3, the rear speakers already sound kinda good as they are the big tower speakers that were supposed to be front but due to lack of space sadly they are the rear surround speakers :(. So I really need to fix this super nasty muffled muddy front bookshelf speakers...
With Z5500 a FPS simulator with real nice sound effects REALLY sound like I'm in the middle of a war and now with the bigger speakers it sound like I'm in the middle of the war with cans on my ears FFS :(.
EDIT: However the sensitivity of those Tweeters are far higher than my speakers, is there a way to drop DB level on them without having to be in the equalizer by reducing treble??? I want to use just a cap as crossover as I want the cheapest way to go, is there something else I can add to make the tweeter drop DB sensitivity a bit?
You didn't show their distortion (
Is of tbh afk?
Neodymium motor and titanium membrane all the way period
I'd use a better quality amplifier when measuring drivers, I doubt that cheap chinese thing has a linear response on the edges of the spectrum
nice earring
No test!!!!"
100
dipwad,,,,,,
You are like the male version of Dora the explorer......!! Use your hands not your mouth!!
Hey expert...
It's NEODIUM magnet not neodomium!
😂
What's happening to your arm?Kirby!!!!
Kirby, like your videos and keep up the good work. How about an A/B comparison between the less expensive versus the next level up? If I doubled the amount I spent on the tweeter how much better will it sound?
This is a great idea for a video! I'll do this for sure. Thanks for watching!
Id consider myself an audiophile But i dont understand these Idiots that think that they have to have Insanely expensive crap to get good sound. When im listening to a speaker that I built I listen to it for the quality it has not the quality that it doesn't... Yes Its nice to have really expensive equitment But this tweeter sounds Amazing for how cheap it is!
Fully agree!
Thx for the reply man! :)
I bought two of these tweeters to "try them out" with my Micca MB-42XC speakers I used as a stereo pair in my bedroom. They're really decent in SQ and are an exact match for the OEM tweeters. I wonder how they'd behave with a waveguide mounted on them?
Best super budget twetters today Lavoce TN131.00. And one Italian tweeter have amazing sound quality Ciare HTB 260! 👍But HTB 260 no budget product.
Hey bro....have you ever review SB Acoustic Satori Series from my country, Indonesia ?
*2 way tweeter? Wtf?*
i think thats a great tweeter,,, btw sorry for the arm bro
GREAT WORK BROTHER
Thank you!
Meh...SB Acoustics sb29 is superior.
HELLO RECENTLY BUY THE TWOETER Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4 OF 4 OHM AND THE WOOFER Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4 OF 4 OHM. CAN YOU HELP ME WITH THE VALUES THAT THE IDEAL CROSSOVER SHOULD CARRY FOR THIS COUPLE? I WANT TO BUILD IT I THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR HELP
I'm building a new speakers. and since i'm limited in space on the floor. I want to build 2 decent ceiling speakers. would I get a better bass if I use 2 identical woofers in the same enclosure ? or box if you will ?
Here in Germany the soundbooks ja very popular , hows about a Build vlog with a battery powererd Speaker with the volume and soundquality like the Soundboks or better?
Great videos and a relaxed atmosphere! You often test speakers for various DIY projects. Can you test Dayton / Manacor ready crossovers, which include Parts Express or SoundImport, among others? Most of us can't calculate a crossover, but we buy a finished one. Try a complete crossover with the speakers you talk about in this video.
What's new? 30 years ago I used to use Tweeter as a dome but my boxes, I was 13 years old.
Realistic had a dome replacement that I remember sounded great id like to find that again brand new.
Kirby can you do a video on concentric style speakers please, thanks ,lol one more thing what about upgrading components on store bought speakers.?
Are you talking about a coaxial? Everything in speaker design is specific to the components used. So if you replace the woofer in a store bought speaker, the crossover is no longer designed for that driver. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll sound great, but theres really no way of knowing unless you do the calculations first or someone has already made the swap in their system.
right basically using higher grade components of the same parameters or close but using higher quality parts. would i see a substantial increase in sound quality .im very green to all of this just trying to learn what would work and whats not worth trying i guess.
but on the concentric part of the post that would be completely seperate request.
If you're talking about crossover components on a store bought budget bookshelf speaker, yeah, you'll probably hear a difference since most of those systems use really crapy components on a PCB behind the terminal plate. If you're talking about the drivers themselves, reference back to my first comment, you probably wont find higher quality components with the same TS perimeters. And I don't know what you're talking about with concentric speakers. Most speakers are concentric. Do you mean coaxial?
ok i have a misunderstanding of concentric i basing my interpretation of concentric on the Tannoy style speakers how the tweeter is placed inside the mid driver or woofer pleases excuse my ignorance.
Awesome video quality wow
Soft dome tweeter tend to muffled out poor quality electronic that can cause harsh highs, while metallic dome has better resolution. Not all soft dome are actually soft, some are like fabric instead of silk.
Small dome size tweeter has better dispersion, better high extension but need higher frequency HPF or will distort easily, best paired with a mid range or a small size woofer that can do LPF and higher frequency without distortion.
From the graph, I will choose minimum of 5khz 12db/oct, or 6khz when paired with a good small woofer that can cover higher frequency.
Why are you using a ommi mic?? Makes no sense, picking up sound from everywhere.😨
Thats the name of the product. bit.ly/OmniMic
My bad, sorry
can it replace the tweeter that comes in the micca mb42x spkrs?
The micca tweeter is 8 ohm, Dayton is is 4, it can replace, add a 3 ohm resistor
How would this in car audio