Low Fuel Economy Diagnosis 2000 Ford Explorer
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2024
- DIY Home mechanic diagnosing a 2000 Explorer with low fuel economy complaint.
Fuel trim data are used in this diagnosis- if you need training on fuel trim interpretation see Secret of Engine Problem Diagnosis at this link : • Secret of Engine Probl...
im a 19 year old apprentice mechanic with the goal of becoming the best diagnostic technician i know and i love going through your engine diagnostics playlist on youtube in my free time i learn a lot
You are on the right track!!! Keep studying and you will be that good-to guy for sure!!
For those of us who are sick of being screwed by our "local automotive experts": this is pure gold! Thank you so much Matt for doing this. If you'll notice the thumbs down count it appears there's been 5 "experts" visit this video.
Great Video! I love diagnosing with fuel trims. Once I had P0171 and P0174 on my own vehicle but every time I looked at the trims they were 0 +/- 5%. Finally I looked at them when the vehicle was cold and found them at 20% at idle and near 0 at 1500 RPM. As the vehicle warmed up they dropped back to 0 all around. So I had a vacuum leak but only when the engine was cold. Turned out the upper intake manifold o rings were old and crushed/dried out. Replacing them fixed the problem. Got to love the fuel trims!
Very common issue and in fact I believe I have three videos showing exactly this same condition. High fuel trims only when cold that improve with temperature almost always indicates an intake manifold leak! Great diagnosis!
working on my 2001 sporttrak while watching these. makes it kind of fun really. Watching fuel trims while going around witha spray or propane helps find the tiniest of leaksI think even better than the smokemethod. It got me through my emissions test hee at the State inspection site. I am grateful. That area of the Ford model is a bear to get to and any footage of that area is appreciated as well.
This really is one of your best ST/LT fuel trim videos, imho. It’s the eureka one for me anyway where it all clicked together.
Excellent explanations, cause and effect analysis, tips, and speaking "style"!
Thanks!
Great explanation on fuel trims really you make it easy.
Now am waiting for rich condition explain and fix.
Keep it on.
I've made my first 100$ on diagnosing the car that professional mechanics could not figure out. And I've done it in less than 10 min. All because of you. So I would like to give you that money . How can I do it?
No need. Please keep it and pay it forward by helping show others the channel- fair deal?
Schrodingers Box 100$ is not a big money for me , neither for you. It's more like symbolic . And I do show your videos to many people but none of them got interested so far. It's too complicated for them. Most of the mechanics do not have any interest in cars, they just want to make quick money
Thanks my friend. Your comment is symbolic more so than anything else. Consider us even and thanks for watching!
Great video, straight to the point in how to diagnose and fix the issue with elevated fuel consumption, as it turns out a simple vacuum leak was the cause. Thanks a lot for the insight.
I can hear a vacuum leak in the beginning of the vid with the truck idling. Nice video!
Yes good ear, I also could hear it which is why from the very start I expected to find a vacuum leak. It's good to have an ear for those vacuum leaks but still nothing beats seeing smoke spewing from a leak rather than hearing a hiss lol!
Nice work Matt as always. I noticed in the beginning of your video that you were plotting the LTFT bank 1 twice and didn't have LTFT bank 2 up. But near the end of the video, I saw that you caught that and was plotting both banks for LTFT. Yup, the smoke machine sure is a time saver. Keep up the good work.
ROTF!!! OMG I totally did not catch that!! Yeah that would have been horrible if it was a Bank 2 issue eh??? But luckily as you stated I did cover both banks later anyway, but yeah I totally did not even notice!! Whew, I caught a break there!
Excellent video on finding vacuum leaks on an OBD-II vehicle using a smoke machine.
Matt, I am very excited to see a new video! In fact, I am liking and commenting before I even watch it because I know it will be great! Good to see some activity on your channel, and I'm sure I will comment again in about 20 minutes after I watch it lol.. you know me, I like to talk :)
Well done Matt - the PVC was so loose the owner should have noticed it. I suspect the low fuel economy was a result of an incorrect part -was there a secondary fault that was fixed with the wires and plugs changed.
Hi Steve, good question. Yeah I really can't say what or wasn't fixed by the secondary because, as you will surely agree, whenever owner involvement is part of the equation it almost always adds to the variables rather than to the constants lol!!!
Hey that should be in a list of famous quotes!!
Nice video you. My car had an evap system leak the guy I called was someone with stablished business I had already scan the code I asked if he could fix it he said yes! I took it to him and then he said repair like this could only be done at the dealer. It would be nice to have tech like you around here. Thanks for sharing!
VERY informative videos Matt.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
The problem got worse after replacing the PCV...That is a huge red flag right there. You can clearly hear the vacuum leak and yes, smoke machines are awesome to have. Something to keep in mind when smoking the EVAP system, the vent solenoid should be closed using a bi-directional scan tool...just throwing that info out there(knowledge is power) Keep up the good work Matt.
matt your brain is amazing. i wish i could copy and paste it in my head. maybe one day we will have that technology ;') until then... i love your videos, I have learned many things!
+bunkerbuster Lol thanks man. I have been asked before I I can put my brain contents on a flash drive hahaha
+Schrodingers Box one day.. one day. ;)
@@SchrodingersBox 2006 trailblazer with vehicle running st ftrm 0.0 to -2.2 & +1.5 lt ftrm is at +16 at snap throttle it goes down to + 10. Code came AFTER o2s1 change . Also with vehicle off and scan tool reading of o2 voltage o2s12 is 440v but o2s11 is .030 then slowly goes up ? And ideas and is this normal?
Finally something very well explained!!!!
Well Matt I am finished watching and ... you rocked it :) Text book diagnosis, and excellent information as always. You made a great investment with that smoke machine! I have had experience in the field with that machine, and I can say that it won't let you down. If you deal with lots of EVAP codes, that machine coupled with a good bi-directional scan tool will save you TONS of time. Hope to see another vid real soon!
Thanks Jeffrey good to hear from you again. Yes the smoke machine is a fantastic addition for my little home garage and I have already used it to detect EVAP and Exhaust leaks that quite honestly I never would have found by any other method. It will pay for itself many times over in time savings. One of the best applications which I should have done a video on- a Ford Taurus with terrible stumbling, hesitation, rough idle on cold start but runs like a dream when warmed up. Using the smoke machine I found a massive intake manifold leak when the car is dead cold but it sealed up completely when car was warmed up. I couldn't use my scantool for diagnosis because the car ran fine just before it would get to closed loop. Smoke machine was a saviour on that one!!
My 2004 BMW 325i only got 15 MPG since I bought it 5 years ago.
I cleaned the MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR and I'm getting around 30+ now!!!
(It never threw a fault code for anything. Including Oxygen Sensors.)
man I wish your shop was near me. guys in my area are clueless when working on vehicles and makes matter worse
+swagg so smooth23 I dont have a shop- I'm a DIY. ANyone can do this if they study enough
+Schrodingers Box if you say so
+Schrodingers Box So what's the best place/resource if one is interested in studying. You are a good inspiration and thanks for putting all the hard work into your videos
I really like this guy, very helpful
Don't have a smoke tester and needed to find a vacuum leak on my '93 S-10 4.3L. I used an incense stick to provide a source of smoke to find a bad gasket under the throttle body. Worked quite well for me. With engine running, the vacuum leak pulled the smoke into the engine when brought near the site where unmetered air was entering the engine.
Never tried that- sounds both effective and spiritual. Being in Colorado, I expect a lot of people will be putting lit reefers up to intake leaks to look for them. It wquld be even funnier if the car's idle really mellowed-out too.
That's a cheap suggestion (as in good). I couldn't find my mom's vacuum leak and I didn't want to make a cigar machine when tobacco makes me gag. So, I'll put the incense in her intake tube, plug it up and watch for smoke. Only place I can think of to put it. :)
Though, watching the STFT and LTFT while running the propane around a bunch of vacuum hoses, the intake, ect., may just be a way to see what's going on. I couldn't tell before, not noticing a change in the idle.
I wish I knew about Fuel Trim Diagnosis when I had MY 2000 Explorer (aka "Old Ned" because he was a "N"Eddie Bauer Edition). It has horrible Gas Mileage AND an Airbag Light too!
FYI - the Airbag Light can possibly be the system harness under the Right Front Seat (known harness connection issues).
Wow great info, great diagnosis,I need to watch more of your Videos, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent explanation and video....Greetings from India..
awesome video!!! i have a 2000 Explorer 4.0L OHV that's giving me fits with check engine light and crappy fuel mileage.
My videos should help. If you want to tell me the engine code I can refer you to a video most likely.
P0171 P0174 Lean bank 1 and 2
Ann Robinson Well this would be something that normally a beginner would not be able to diagnose. You would need to have a scan tool and know how to interpret the data from the fuel adjustments, generally far beyond the capability of most beginners. If you are curious how this would be done my video "Secret of engine problem diagnosis: fuel trims" explains it better than anything on the internet but most likely you will need a shop to diagnose it for you. Just don't let anyone talk you into new Oxygen Sensors like 98% of idiots will do on those codes.
Hey thanks for the video. I have a 2000 ranger with the same engine and I'm getting about 12mpg on the highway. I don't know why I didn't even think about a vacuum leak. Thanks for the tips.
A vacuum leak will not likely cause low mileage on highway or driving. Vacuum leak only reduces economy when idling.
Schrodingers Box hey thanks for the reply. What do you think about the Bluetooth odb2 readers for diagnosis?
Mine is getting bad gas mileage on the highway as well. Did you ever figure out what was causing it?
Thanks for your time, very informative.
Matt, you are the best and only use your channel for help!! Do you have any videos on Ranger 4.0 sohc timing and with crank no start. I have pulled this 03 motor twice and rebuilt only to have it shut down while running and then can,t get it to start. I only took this project on to help my son with this truck because many mechanics do not want to work on it and if they do, charge many thousands of dollars. I am at a loss what to do at this stage
Thanks. Any crank no start diagnosis is the same on every vehicle- See my videos on FASTTEC technique
so i have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with very poor fuel economy. i did a scan of my fuel trims and these are the results: STFL 19.7% and LTFT is 3.7%. Opening the throttle, the STFT lowers and the LTFT goes into the negatives. I replaced some vacuum hoses that had minor bursts on the but saw no improvement to my fuel trims. Oxygen sensors and spark plugs are new. my coils are coil on plugs and when removed from the plugs one by one the car would stall. MAF was cleaned and it stalls the car when the connection is removed. I didn't do a fuel pressure test since i don't have the tools to do it.
Can you help in anyway?
N.B my upstream o2 sensor is the wide band type
Thank you so much for your great videos. I've learned a lot from you and I appreciate your scientific approach to car repairs because I'm also a PhD organic chemist who works on cars (not nearly as involved though).
I have a 98 Civic that has been having horrible fuel economy for a few years now and hoping you can direct me to the right direction. It has -5% LTFT (sometimes higher absolute values) and STFT fluctuates -10~+10%. Upstream O2 sensor trace seems to oscillate properly during idle & constant throttle. Fuel pressure is within specs at idle and with throttle open. TPS response seems a bit sluggish, but I can't tell if it's because of my bluetooth OBDII device being slow or not. A year ago, the car was particularly rough around low RPM and verified the TPS voltage didn't change properly with respect to throttle, so I put in a cheap aftermarket TPS. I have detected gasoline smell in 2 of the 4 cylinders when the fuel pump was primed but without engine running. So I replaced all 4 fuel injectors to no avail for the fuel economy issue. Another symptom is that once in a long while the engine shuts down without any warning (re-starts up right away). The engine sound seems louder and includes very minor sputtering-type of sound, but the car still has decent power and acceleration. The thermostat has been somewhat recently changed with an OEM one. Any thoughts? Thank you for your time!
At load, the LTFT doesn't change (-5% or so) and STFT fluctuates -10 to +10.
Sounds like its not an engine related issue. Maybe steric hindrance lol
it is a small Japanese car with no racks or anything. so not much steric hindrance :) the difference in MPG is noticeable because until a few years ago I used to get >34 MPG on average, but now it's ~20 MPG. On steep hills, I feel like it has slightly less power than used to. So I'm still thinking it's engine-related?
Based on what evidence?
actually sounds like plugged exhaust/cats the way you describe it.
First of all, thank you for all of the priceless info shared here. I have a questions, i've run some tests with my obd2 scanner, it seems i experience a lean condition on one bank and a rich condition on the other one... basically both of the symptoms explained here, I have a Subaru outback legacy 6.3.0 from 2003, Everything seems to run great exept the fuel consuption is terrible... i am doing 170 miles on a full tank..... getting a 10mpg driving very conservatively...
Any hint on what, how to execute more tests?
I would start with basic fuel trim analysis with induced variables for both banks and see how the banks respond accordingly. Then swap O2 sensors on each bank and repeat. If the problem moves, the O2 sensors need replacement. If however they are consistent, start running down bank-independent rich and lean variables since the O2 sensors are accurately reporting.
Science!
Schrodingers Box thank you so much!
What do you mean exactly by induced variables? The only variable I used so far is the gas pedal :) . I will also look into O2 sensor. Forgot to mention, No codes are appearing on my scanner. I really appreciate you taking the time! Learning a lot from your videos!
by induced variables i mean create intentional rich and lean conditions so you can see the o2 sensor response changes as would be expected.
Schrodingers Box got it! Onto more research now! Thanks!
Hey Matt great work , easy to understand you do an excellent presentation. My explorer has been sitting for 2 yrs, it starts easy but runs poorly on the road. Guessing it is old fuel that needs a cleanout, any ideas to test its not something else? what is you OBD system software, i think l need one the same, l am new to these computer vehicles, as had diesels pre computer for years.
Cheers from Downunder
It is extremely unlikely to be bad fuel. If it were me I would do a fuel trim analysis to find the cause of the rough running and go from there,
Thank you for the knowledge.
Great demo, Matt!
Great video on finding vacuum leaks! Makes me want to go out and buy a Cornwell diagnostic leak detector. What a time saver.
If you get one and you regularly work on cars even as a hobby, it will change your life. You can use it for many other things- exhaust leaks, EVAP, even window trim and weatherstripping leaks!
5:30 what a cool, cool guy you are!!!
Low fuel economy was the complaint. Fuel trims were high to compensate for unmetered air, but also to keep the fuel to air ratio correct. It seems to me that more fuel and more air is the same as stepping on the accelerator. The engine would speed up, but the idle control would compensate for this. Also with the problem improving with engine speed, the car would have to do a lot of idling to affect fuel mileage. What am I missing here?
dogbyte555 Thats a good point. Owner is a delivery driver- maybe idles the car more than usual?
Another explanation possibly is with PCV leak, the owner was losing the PCV ventilation to the intake thus also lowering economy some.
But I agree- I would normally not expect most people to notice most vacuum leaks to seriously affect economy.
I hope u will reply to my questions. I have seen a lot your videos for the past few months in order to troubleshoot the problem with my Nissan X trail T30. I have a high fuel consumption for a few years. Most mechanic cannot identify the issue and just give a guess to change few parts. About 2 months ago I saw your video and start learning. I have run the scanner and I got LTFT and STFT around -9 to -11 and when I push the throttle to 4000rpm the LTFT and STFT will be at 0. So my questions is this an indicator for vacuum leaks too? Or it is something else, because in this video the LTFT is at positive 20% and and will be at 0 if you increase the gas. My situation is kind of up side down from this video. What's your thought for the cause of my LTFT at negative reading?
It cannot be a vacuum leak. However I have seen many times a rich FT at idle that fixes upon increased RPM that turned out to be a dirty MAF sensor. Just had that this weekend where this happened and I did a volumetric efficiency calculation to confirm. Free repair.
@@SchrodingersBox thanks for your prompt reply. However I have seen your video about MAF sensor and its type and had cleaned my MAF sensor and throttle body last 2 weeks prior to scan because I don't have scan tools before this. I will do the MAF and throttle body cleaning again and see the feedback from scanner. By the way what is volumetric efficiency calculation? Is there any of your video that I can learn about this volumetric efficiency? Are there anything else other than dirty MAF sensor that you know from your experience that will cause rich FT at idle? Thanks from Malaysia.
How to tell if brake booster is the vacuum leak?
What would be the DX and repair costs for that job you did?
pretty simple. if the fuel trim increases dramatically when brakes applied OR decreases dramatically when the booster vacuum is blocked, you confirmed a bad brake booster.
Great video !
MY 2003 HONDA CRV DOES NOT SHUTS OFF but loss power I press on the gas and the car does move I turn the car off for 10 minutes and go back to normal.the last time that it happen I was in the freeway at 60 mph and suddly lose power no check engine light.what can be?what I need to check?please...
Great video as always.
I have an 07 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD with a 5.3L (aprox 140K miles)
Im only getting 6.5 mpg, and theres NO check eng light and truck runs smooth...
I removed throttle body and cleaned it, cleaned and re oiled the K&N filter, and cleaned the MAF sensor...
Where should i start looking for the problem?
I hear from others with identical trucks, they're getting about 12 mpg. So i dont understand why im so far off.
Thanks!
What data do you have?
Schrodingers Box
Should i check my fuel trim numbers? I have an Autel code reader, but it does do live data...
Schrodingers Box
I havent driven my truck today, and its very cokd, if i go fire it up so i can check the fuel trims, how long does it take to go into closed loop? And does it need to be in closed loop to check those figures?
I would totally start with fuel trim. No doubt. Keep it basic.
Schrodingers Box
Ok sounds good!
Thanks
I will post the numbers once i get a chance to run out and check them
This guy is good!!
you are the man! Thank you!
Great video Mat ! !!
Can i check the LFT with a basic bluetooth obd scanner?
Yes!
awesome videos really informative
Where have You been? Long time no see.
Sir, My Honda Civic 1.8 is giving very poor fuel average. I drive sedately below 2000 rpm and it gives 18-24 mpg vs honda 40-60 mpg. Car drives smoothly and power delivery is good. Recently I had sulphur smell on revving my car hard which is no more there now. No error code is there. Unable to diagnose the issue. Please help.
What is your LTFT and STFT data at idle vs load?
07, f-150,5.4 triton, auto. trans,40k.mi
(ONLY 8mi.GAL.,low power, big deep waaa sound from engine when press on gas)
cleaned MAF, new air filter, MECHANIC checked for codes, no codes.)
NOW what should I do?
+steven lesher what data do you have? Anything is possible from that description. Need data as shown in the video to make a determination.
+Schrodingers Box I have to find a mechanic I guess too do a diagnostic. I don't have the mechanical ability to do all this. wish me luck
great video! thank you.
at 9:58 you saw smoke from the rear of the engine , what was that leak?
valve cover gasket.
Can a vacuum leak cause a rich condition? I have short and long fuel trims at -25 and when I goose the gas the longs drop to -4 ish immediately
No. You can have two conditions though. Remember a vacuum leak is never a condition under load.
@@SchrodingersBox It was tossing lean codes, I threw new sensors at it and intake gaskets. new wires and plugs it even asked for fuel pump and injectors. which it got and that's when the codes went rich
i would have to see the day indicating you needed a fuel pump. Didn’t your data you just said in first post show you did not need a fuel pump? What ann i missing? even if that data did show you need a fuel pump, why do plugs and wires? Sorry I am not following your method here.
@@SchrodingersBox OKAY just remember you asked. 8*) I got the truck(96 explorer 4.0 ohv) it had misfire codes for cyl 6 & 1 a code for DPFE and one for ETC the misfires went away when I replaced wires and plugs The other two codes left after replacing the two sensors. (The truck hadn't been maintained so you know the drill "gimmy gimmy" new codes for lean condition brought me to your channel where I learn a lot and took care of the codes as they appeared. along the way was checking the fuel system for pressure and it was 17psi also it would bleed off quick. the FPR diagram is good it holds vacuum so I haven't changed it, but I put a new fuel pump module in the tank and bought new injectors. The lean condition went away and it's now running stupid rich the HO2 appear to be okay I am wondering if the spring in the FPR could be IDK not springy enough if it would cause the problem. my pressure is around 34psi goes to 39psi when I remove the V line. the voltage at the pump is 14.4 running and 0.3 on the neg side. I have beat my head against the wall on this Ford. And everything I can find online doesn't seem to have any effect on it. A compression check showed 5 cyl at 120ish and 1 at 145ish but they all hold pressure. the engine idles nice it will snap rev okay but at WOT it complains a lot and I get fuel system faults until it goes back to idle. I've smoked it and fixed all vacuum leaks there are no exhaust leaks I have always been able to keep my vehicles on the road but this one is; how can I say it nicely...pissing me off. I have tried every reasonable thing it might be that I have been turning up on the web. and thought you could point a finger in the right direction. hopefully not up. :) also I unhooked the exhaust after the Y and before the CAT still no change
Sorry but non of that data is useful except the fuel pressure data which clearly indicates the fuel pump was fine.
I need to see relevant data- just basic fundamental beginning data such as the LTFT and STFT both static and curved against load correltated to MAP and MAF.
You say you unhooked the exhaust- why? What was your MAP data indicating an exhaust restriction? Was a backpressure test done?
You have to have a specific, targeted goal and eliminate variables systematically. This looks really shotgun and there is no comprehensive dataset for any one variable.
Good video man!
Great Video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I finally found my pesky vacuum leak that would cause no load misfires that where not consistent and only having a positive 3 long term fuel trim. It was in the throttle body shaft
Yes I haven't had my smoke tester long but I have seen this in about 1/2 the cars I tested thus far. In my experience the leaks are very minor and have never affected driveability but maybe that wasn't the case for you. But in general when I see that, I dismiss it as a cause for concern during a smoke test and actually with only a +3 LTFT I wouldn't even have considered vacuum leak in the first place to be honest. But hey if you repaired/replaced the TB and your symptoms disappeared then I am convinced!
Hi Matt and all, I don’t want to be considered a bonehead for this comment as I try to absorb everything that you teach.
However I’ve been a little stumped by a friends 1.4 diesel Peugeot 206, and I know it’s a French car... trust me, I’d burn it if it was mine.
However he has a high fuel consumption issue. Very irritatingly this model doesn’t support the OBD function of reading live data (even though it has the OBD port and can read DTC’s?.. even has oxygen sensors so unsure as to why!), apparently only 2004 onwards and this is a 2003, which instantly puts me at a little bit of discomfort.
Making up a “dryer race board of knowledge” at the moment to consider all possibilities.
Written so far:
-vacuum leaks
-leaky fuel injectors
-dirty mass air flow
-low compression
-thermostat (not reaching closed loop?)
-mechanical friction (brakes binding, worn tyres.. advice here would also help guys)
If you or anyone watching this channel has any more options for me to check, it would be GREATLY appreciated. I would obviously prefer to check the easiest and most likely before delving into something more difficult like checking compression through the glow plug holes... not cool.
Cheers guys, Reuben
Good info thanks
great job do u remember me?
I do indeed!!! I see you have your own garage now! Congrats!!
thank you so much sir
Why is there two bank 1 longterm pids? wouldn't there be a bank 1 & bank 2 longterm pid?
Each bank is trimmed independently.
but you have bank 1 twice... I guess I need the white board of knowledge..lol
Did I ? Maybe an error or I meant Short term fuel trim. But there is only one LTFT per bank.
Man hurry & start your member page.. I have some studying to do...lol
Hahaha love it! I am told 3 more weeks by the designer. hang in there!!
So, if STFT wouldn't have changed when you goosed the throttle, then what? You said it'd get interesting!
Now I need to think about the idea how to diagnose the same, but without scan tool and without smoke machine and only with my brain and simple voltmeter. Scan tools are great. But I'm usually working with old, or even older than old cars ;)
The way I look at it, I wouldn't try to repair a roof without a hammer and nails, an electrical outlet without pliers and wire strippers, or a modern vehicle without a scantool. You wouldn't go to a doctor when you though you had cancer just to have him use a tongue depressor and sine a light in your ear. The correct tools are just part of doing this stuff correctly.
That said, there are some things you can do with just a DVOM on OBD cars but it's very limited. For example, while you cannot get fuel trim without a scantool, you can measure O2 voltage and see that the sensors are switching AND that they go lean with a vacuum leak and rich with propane addition. But if they respond accordingly, you really have no way of knowing fuel delivery adjustments by the PCM, and you are only left with guesswork.
On older cars without a PCM though- oh yeah, just a DVOM, Tach, and vacuum gauge will get you solid direction almost all the time- but not as fast or accurate as with a scantool on an OBD car. It's why I either work on pre-OBD cars or OBD-II cars. I can't use my scantool on OBD-I and it makes it too hard to get definitive diagnosis.
Schrodingers Box i totally agree, of course. The car I'm working with at this very moment is a 97 car, that comes with OBD II socket, but is not OBD II compliant. Funny, he? So it's electronically managed engine (pcm, fuel injection, sensors, stuff), has an engine light (that never comes on which is weird...) There is a way to read codes with home-made scan tool (like a small led and a few wires that you stick into obd II socket pin by pin), that's sort of useful, but it doesn't give you any live data of course. It behaves just like odb-i thing. With this kind of configuration diagnostics becomes really challenging and I'm still looking around how to do that right. Right in your meaning (which is my meaning as well). I'm pretty sick of guessing, assuming, trying (of course without changing parts!!!) I'm even ready to invest some money (I really like this car anyway) for some external/standalone monitoring system, that will be connected to existing sensors, or even directly to the PCM (I don't really know if there is something like that) just to make my life easier and diagnosis more accurate. And you know what? Only because of your videos and because I'm freak I just bought a crappy car with OBDII so I can play with my scan tool and live data graphs. My wife doesn't ask any more...... (is this car even driving?)
Any one have a 01 sport Trac 4.0 4x4 and mpgs can I expect
now i have my own garage i opened it just 2 days ago
Nice job Matt. I have been wondering about that smoke machine if it was any good, thanks for showing it. Hey next time you get some more play money saved up go buy you a pico scope from Autonerdz, you'll love it. I bought mine from them and the support and training is top notch. When you get a chance go to autonerdz.com and check it out.
I have a 04 with the 4.0 haven't had it long mabe a week. And this thing has uses 40$ worth in gas Wich was 9.5 gallons of gas and only gotten 240 miles wtf
that’s almost 24MPG. what is spec?
@@SchrodingersBox 4x4 4.0 v6
Sorry I typed that wrong I meant I have put $20 in it Wich was 9.5 gallons and I put another 20$ Wich was another 9.5 gallons Wich was Total of $40 in gas and I have only gotten 240 miles out of the $40 Worth Wich was 18 gallons dam thing sucks on gas
ok so what data do you have? Fuel trim data is always where you start on something like this.
All this time thought name was Schrodinger.
grins
I have no codes, and strong exhaust fumes, not like sulphur, but just like regular exhaust just much stronger.... And horrible fuel mileage. 2002 Honda Odyssey.... could somebody please tell me what's wrong with my vehicle or possibly wrong? Thanks
What data do you have? WHat is the LTFT and STFT under idle vs load curve? WHat is the injector plusewidth response to MAP?
Need data to help.
+Schrodingers Box I appreciate the fast response, I'm sorry I don't have any data, I just have a basic code reader there are no codes so I don't have any data.
Mrscoobieman Can't help then, sorry. Good luck
Diagnosis - American car
The variability in driver's care and maintenance is the main difference in reliability of vehicles, There is no evidence to show american cars are INTRINSICALLY less or more reliable than foreign. People just read stuff without actually questioning the evidence or make a general judgement from one personal experience.
Schrodingers Box I wasn't saying that it was unreliable because it's american... The title said "Low Fuel Economy Diagnosis"... I was implying that american cars are uneconomical gas guzzlers and you're wasting your time looking for a diagnosis to the problem the customer says the car has. I wasn't serious though, i'm just having a laugh :3
***** I get ya- yeah you have a good point there.
Schrodingers Box I just found out that apperently Obama has just passed a regulation that requires all cars sold after 2025 to get at least 54.5mpg fuel economy! if they managed to keep this regulation in, america could end up having some of the most economic cars in the world... I highly doubt this promise will be kept and will probably be scrapped by the next government because people want cars with massive V8s because they think it's patriotic (even though this regulation is intended to reduce dependance on foreign oil, which funds terrorist groups like ISIS)
***** As long as the cars have over 400HP I don't care what the gas mileage is lol
very long winded to much talking about nothing
Yeah people with very low attention spans that just like watching bolts move and parts being taken off with no understanding of why those decisions are being made and how to do such diagnosis tend to be people who won't not to like my channel. Thanks for trying bro- I recommend Scotty Kilmer for you.