I have removed the trigger etc to change barrels (17hmr) I found the bolt to be extremely tight-I took my dremel and polished the bottom of the bolt in areas where I could see metal on metal It is smooth now I have also noticed I need to pay attention to the torque on the trigger / magazine well
I've found with the Wheeler gage if I put my T-finger on the gage 'hook' and pull that very gently, I can get 'mostly consistent' readings. I just did 10 on my 457 V-MTR and got 4x - 5.3-+.5x oz; 2x - 6.1-.3 oz, and one @ 3.7 oz and one at 2.6. Those last two were pulling with my finger but very rapidly. That may be the "Gold Standard" with that sort of gage, since when I just pull the trigger w/o the gage I barely need to touch it and it fires. I think the 3-oz range might be the most accurate and I may raise the pull a bit. That's 'scary light', even for bench shooting (for me, at least). I've got NO A/D yet but constantly check with a rubber mallet or bounce on the bench. My MTR has a rubber butt-pad so 'drop test' isn't reliable. The mallet lets me whack it sharply w/o much chance of damage. Again, Thanks for your vids, they're very helpful. Ed
Just a note re the gage. Timney advised on RFC-CZ that the gage is to be put on the tip of the trigger ONLY. AND that anything under 10oz may result in 'inconsistent' readings. You, as pointed out b4, used many points on the trigger. I have trouble pulling w-o 'hitting the wall' at overtravel, giving 'higher' readings. That style gage 'locks' readings too quickly to get 'fine reading' in my opinion. Still a good guideline if you take 5+ readings for Average, but 4x 8.0s and a 5.0 gives a poor average. And if you use a tripod for the camera/phone you can get a better vid. YiLi's comment is not applicable to CZ457 trigger, there is NO 3rd screw.
As I said before, I have the "Over-travel" adjusted very 'tight' so it's hard to 'stop' the pull before 'hitting the wall' of the O-T stop. I believe that causes a Higher Pull Reading. Pinching on the gage 'hook' lets me control the pull a bit better but it still gives me high readings on occasion. I'm really surprised No One has commented on this issue ANYWHERE before. I took careful look at a vid by another YTer (Pursuit of Accuracy) about a CZ and posted there regarding this. His gage measurements were 'similar to yours' in that he was reading ca 10-11 oz, but I was seeing and hearing the trigger "Click" when the gage was reading ca 5-6 oz. I posted my 'estimated readings' on his site but haven't heard back yet. - - Holidays i guess.
RE; Hard Action...I had to take a grinder and trim off a bit on the "TRIGGER SCREW ". It was binding on the Action Bolt when tightened up to appropriate amount. That fixed it completely. Re; Action Screws Torque.. Yes I played with them. The front screw towards muzzle made the gun shoot best. Ive really not got results on two screw actions in tuning. On my Savage 3 Screw it made a huge difference in accuracy. I actually changed trigger out and used a JARED Trigger in the end at 4 OZ. The Timney just wasnt light enough for me.I have Timneys in other guns.Just not in my 22's. Im actually have a Savage Accu-trigger that is my all time favorite. I guess its just a Freak. Its Perfect in my 33XC.. But the other Accu-Triggers in 2 other rifles are junk. Im changing out to a Timney as soon as I rebarrel them. Shooting from 50 yds to 600 yards I have 50 MOA Rail and a Zeiss S5 scope with 20 MOA Rings. M y gun likes Lapua Super Long Range and RWS 50. best. However other than a flyer now and then the CCI Mini Mags shoot awesome in it.Not much luck with any ELEY so far. Good Video.Thanks. It was quite helpful.
Timney trigger is good, but CZ trigger is good too. If you are happy with the original one, keep it. I have both, the difference between CZ and Timney are small.
I personally have mixed feelings on the CZ trigger. I really do not think much of the trigger weight adjustment but the pre-travel adjustment was usefully on my AT-ONE. I never really like the trigger on the AT-ONE. The trigger on my VPT was good, I just replaced the trigger spring with a Yo-Dave springing and I am pretty. With that said I will most likely change to the trigger at some point.
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV You know, I takes my words back. After I spent more time with a timney trigger I like it a lot more. But a standard trigger is still decent.
Bret, I would recommend an adjustable front rest for your ARA larger targets, set for center top paper and level. You should slightly lean forward on a bipod, which did happen a couple of times but moved back and forth. If you want to continue using a bipod, you will need cleats, swivel, cant and level capability. Watch your video, focus on your movements, as you move higher, meaning you need to get butt lower your not as accurate. When you have to move the butt higher you are more comfy and accurate. There is a movement range with a rear bag that you head, neck, torso, elbow and back feels good when shooting from a bench. This is why adjustable front rest is better, with the least amount of movement on your comfort the better, unless you get one of those fancy bipods, still a pain in the butt. The more comfortable you are the more repeatable your groups will be with good ammo. But for making a video for us, sh-- whatever is easier, looked like fun with the trigger careless about center punch. ? of Torque: Depends on materials evolved. With composite or just wood stocks, let's just say your rifle especially with high powered rifles are moving up and down and side to side during multiple shots avoid sleds with HP rifles. When hunting not much of a concern, distances are not great enough for concern, unless you are a sniper. Temp, altitude, sunlight and humidity also dramatically effects wood more so than metal. Even some plastic/polymer stocks in sunlight will expand and contract. Not all is lost, I have one Boyd stock, came with a Savage Minimalist, there is 0 metal in these stocks and are compressed wood or composite wood blend. Where the screw meets the stock and rifle mounts, I would use metal (minimum) with flat metal and rubber washers (thin). See below links and find your size required, buy a bunch of different ones (cheap), test them (experiment) on a spare or old stock or scrap wood (add metal/wood glue), tool them if required, use rubber washers and replace them every year. This ensure free float by sizing the front from a 1/64th to 3/16th in spacing between stock and rifle front mount and an inexpensive way of stabilizing your rifles platform. The rifle platform needs predictable repeatable stability, hence repeatable harmonics from the receiver to the barrel. Your rifles harmonics will change if you remove it from the stock. In free floating not just the barrel but free floating the entire rifle your harmonics are repeatable, but for 22lr ahh stability and best affordable repeatability is all you need whether it touches the receiver or not. Meaning, even though the stock touches the receiver it can still be repeatable, you just want stable repeatable connections between the stock and rifle mounts/platform. Have you ever heard anybody say, "somethings wrong with my rifle, once I changed the stock" or "hey once I changed the stock it shoots like a tack driver"? Same rifle 2 differing results, I wonder why, cheek riser, feel, more stable? :) Rigid stocks are good, but some folks can't afford the cost of decent/good materials. If you have a plastics stock just use metal washer and metal lock washers for free float and stability, if bench rest shooting, bed it as well and sand the forestock sides until not touching. Test torque setting with screw and nut, at room temp, as soon as any stress on the plastic is noticed back up 2-3 lbs (document). www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Standard-SAE-3-Prong-Tee-Nut/3025387?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_126_Fastening-_-3025387-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqvaNBhDLARIsAH1Pq51WGgCfXBsJuusjXjlcAmukFC6s-L2gcMCwFq-UgwtoVAhF2SqA4M4aAoWwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Brass-Standard-SAE-Wood-Insert-Lock-Nut/3012578 www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Hex-Flanged-Internal-Threads/dp/B002WC8TVG/ref=asc_df_B002WC8TVG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312379347118&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12138363914235280538&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010587&hvtargid=pla-569786774285&psc=1 Steyr barrel process... is why stock Steyr rifles are used around the world to this day as sniper rifles by mostly rag tag armies. Look it up... Even the Russians use Steyr SSG 08 in .308 WIN / .300 WM / .338 LM. Syrian rebels captured them from the Russian and Syrian soldiers and turned them and other older Steyrs against them. ua-cam.com/video/aCMzyNHkjpk/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/dC7pWfM3ngU/v-deo.html
Billy Bob, Thanks for the details. I’ll have to print and read through this a few more times but I find the information helpful. I have really been focused the last few matching on being consistent with me handling of the rifle and placement of the rifle. I think 2022 will be a great year to nail down the detail of my shooting and become a consistent shooter. Thanks again for time the time, to help me and my viewer.
Two things I noticed on your trigger weight testing. First of all, you have to always put the gauge on the exact same spot of the trigger. A couple of times you put it right on the edge and got inconsistent readings. The second tip, you will get more accurate results if you pull parallel to the barrel. You were pulling at a downward angle. Otherwise, good video!
You really need to put the pull tester on the trigger in the same place every time. Leverage is different when you put it at the very bottom of the trigger (9 oz) pull compared to 1/4” higher (10 oz) pull.
Beautiful and instructive video, I wanted to ask the tightening torque of the bolt that tightens the trigger box to how many N/m or IN/LB should it be tightened? The screws instead that tighten the entire action to the stock? Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the answer, yes you understood correctly... and the answer you gave me is very important for me, anyway why does it dye them so little if CZ recommends 40 IN/LB's?? Isn't 24 IN/LB' too little? The other question I asked you was about the screw that holds the sear box or trigger as you wish to call it. I recently put a trigger box for the CZ457 but I don't know how many IN/LB, could you suggest? Thank you for the time you dedicated to me! You are very kind
This is good because I had the same exact problem at first where the trigger was just locked and wouldn't fire. Like you I kept fighting with it and eventually it just snapped. Well done showing that!
I have shot over 500 rounds with the Timney in the AT-ONE and it performed flawlessly, Still not sure what happened during the install but I am very happy with the trigger,
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV yeah I tried it out on Friday for the first time and I was able to get four < 0.4 MOA 5 shot groups in a row at 50 yards with SK Standard Plus, so I look forward to trying it at 100 & 200 yards where I can more consistently stay sub MOA before the trigger upgrade I’m excited to see how much it helps
SORRY !! That "Other vid" I mentioned was NOT PoAccuracy, It was an 'other' vid of yours, the one about "Trigger Failure CZ457" and You DID reply to that comment. I do wish there was a more accurate gage, but I've watched vids done with the Lyman gage and it does the same thing. As I said earlier, my V-MTR is around 3-5 oz, but if I pull 'Normally' it will 'hit the wall' and register ca 11 oz or more. I'm going to try the "Water/weight" pull test to see if that gets a better reading. I have a digital luggage scale I used before getting the Wheeler.
I did replace my CZ455 with a Timney trigger and was ok but for my CZ457 the Jodave trigger spring got it down exactly 8 ounces but I lost the first stage. But it’s never going to be as good as my Anschutz rifles
Glad to hear that as I have an Anschutz 1761 MPR LH on order . My CZ is a great little gun but I’m hoping the Anschutz will be even better with the 21 “ barrel I might also order a longer barrel for the CZ At One
Great video. Will watch more to see if you figured out your inconsistencies in your trigger and your action screw torques. I put my action screws to 35 inch pounds and haven’t played around with them. I do have a Timney trigger inbound should be here soon.
I have 2 CZs and from reading 'Many' posts on RFC and CZ-forum, it is advised by 'Users' (not CZ) to torque about 25-28 ip to get best accuracy. Maybe you should 'Play around' a bit . . .
Your shooting is quite good ,but I wonder if it could be improved by shooting horizontal lines rather than going up and down which is a big change of point of aim veriically whereas moving horizontally retains a more positive attachment at your shoulder. Just an observation not a critisim. Cheers
Thanks, I have tried both but with the bipod and rear bag it is not as easy to move horizontally. I feel it is easier to keep the rifle and myself aligned with the target moving up and down but I need a stock with a nice slope like my AT1
Try SK PISTOL MATCH - they may be better than SK PMS SPECIAL. Recomended bolt action screw torgue is 35 inch/lb for wooden stocks , but you know it well. It must be checkedt after buying your gun. My Anni had loose ones to my amusement
One thing more - re your shooting style. Have you tried 'pinching the trigger' instead of pulling. I find that gives 'less disturbance' to my aim. With low pull it seems better to me. . .
Good to know, I have purchased a second Timney trigger with the intention of installing it in my CZ457 VPT, we’ll see. Thanks maybe I’ll be more aggressive on that rifle. I will say I have shot over 500 rounds with the Timney in the AT-ONE and it performed flawlessly,
A question on the Athlon Argo, how good is this scope in the quality of the glass and the turrets adjustments? I have an early Athlon Argo scope the glass is so-so, and the turret's in elevation is not good. I don't know or understand that a company when first starting, the product line fair, but improvements are made into the product line. The early model went back into its box. I am looking into what you are doing, 22 caliber thing! Retired.
Please keep in mind, I use this scope to shoot 50 yards ARA match only. I believe this scope is great for this purpose. The functionality is GREAT but the glass is not but keep in mind I keep this scope at 40X 100% of the time, so I think most scopes will not be at their best at max zoom. I think you'll have to spend $2000 or more to get a better scope with 40X zoom. I think for this purpose as I described you can not bet this scope, make sure you get the gen2
Yeah timmney trigger are the best but it sure sucks to try to get one I have 3 457 czs and I can't use a computer and these people won't answer their phone or at least for me if I had a company I would be all over that phone trying to make money but you just can't get a call through to them or they won't answer answer their phone for me. How did you get your trigger from them? If you're looking to get a trigger from timney good luck I am still trying to call. Beagleman
hum interesting, I have the Area 419 scope mount and the screws are on the side, one of the things I like about the base. I had no issues at the range. I think for what ever reason things needed to settle in a bit.
Nice video I just purchased the same rifle but with the 16" barrel there was I thought too much movement barrel seemed to loose I tightened the action screws but not sure to what torque it should be
I have mine at 40 in. lbs. I know this is different than your question but I figure I'd let you know I will be doing a video testing different torque setting.
@@scottwood8255 thanks Scott I had it bedded and it is much better now . I wish it would quit snowing so I can get out to the range in more favourable conditions. Thanks again for your advice
I do not, I really like the AT-One for the adjustable stock. As best as I can tell from shooting against others who have shot the MTR, the “Match Chamber” may not been as important as one would like to think. I actually think that is a compliment to CZ excellent quality rifles.
How is your Timney trigger working out for you? I am starting to have 3-4 failures to fire out of 30 or so rounds. I’m not sure if the Timney trigger is the cause or if the firing pin spring is getting weak. I have a spring coming from CZ hopefully that’s the problem. CZ 457 MTR shooting center X so I don’t think it’s the ammo.
John, I have had challenges. After talking to Timney the first units to go out the the sear spring was too light. Timney did send me springs but they said I only would have to remove one pin. That doesn't seem to the case. I have tried to contact Timney for help but they have not returned my calls or email and it had been over a week. I plan on RMA the trigger and have it fixed or replaced. I will say the trigger was beautiful when it worked and it did work flawlessly for about 1,500 rounds. Please see video below, with an example of my trigger challenges. I will have a more detailed video coming soon. Feel free to check out the video below where I had issues. I have chapter marked a couple of places in the video I had problems. ua-cam.com/video/SJNT7SFw11I/v-deo.html
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV It was like you said great until a few days ago. Thinking I would be better off with the Yo Dave spring kit in the factory trigger. I’ve got to check the ARA rule book about that. Great videos! Thanks…
Personally I cut the trigger spring by one and half coil. With fine tuning the three adjustable screws from the factory trigger, I have achieved the trigger weight and break point I wanted
same but I believe I am at 8oz. with little effort adjusting the screw. Timney quote the same 10oz - 2lbs. I just rewater the video to get the pull weight. I ended up being at less than 6 oz. I really like to Tinmey trigger but I have had issues lately, Timnet sent me a new Sear spring but i have not had time to install it. Video on that coming.
First off you are supposed to take the bolt out on the install. Second you should learn how to use the scale. You are making a great trigger look bad because you don't know what your doing.
hum, Step 2 of the Instruction say to remove the bolt. Step 6 is to insert the bolt and test. Not sure what you mean by not knowing how to use the scale.
I have removed the trigger etc to change barrels (17hmr)
I found the bolt to be extremely tight-I took my dremel and polished the bottom of the bolt in areas where I could see metal on metal
It is smooth now
I have also noticed I need to pay attention to the torque on the trigger / magazine well
I must say your shooting skills are 100% much better then the guy at Day at the Range
Nice shooting
thanks for the kind words
I've found with the Wheeler gage if I put my T-finger on the gage 'hook' and pull that very gently, I can get 'mostly consistent' readings. I just did 10 on my 457 V-MTR and got 4x - 5.3-+.5x oz; 2x - 6.1-.3 oz, and one @ 3.7 oz and one at 2.6. Those last two were pulling with my finger but very rapidly. That may be the "Gold Standard" with that sort of gage, since when I just pull the trigger w/o the gage I barely need to touch it and it fires. I think the 3-oz range might be the most accurate and I may raise the pull a bit. That's 'scary light', even for bench shooting (for me, at least). I've got NO A/D yet but constantly check with a rubber mallet or bounce on the bench. My MTR has a rubber butt-pad so 'drop test' isn't reliable. The mallet lets me whack it sharply w/o much chance of damage.
Again, Thanks for your vids, they're very helpful.
Ed
Just a note re the gage. Timney advised on RFC-CZ that the gage is to be put on the tip of the trigger ONLY. AND that anything under 10oz may result in 'inconsistent' readings. You, as pointed out b4, used many points on the trigger. I have trouble pulling w-o 'hitting the wall' at overtravel, giving 'higher' readings. That style gage 'locks' readings too quickly to get 'fine reading' in my opinion. Still a good guideline if you take 5+ readings for Average, but 4x 8.0s and a 5.0 gives a poor average.
And if you use a tripod for the camera/phone you can get a better vid.
YiLi's comment is not applicable to CZ457 trigger, there is NO 3rd screw.
I have started to question my gauge, do you have or know of a trigger gauge that is better?
As I said before, I have the "Over-travel" adjusted very 'tight' so it's hard to 'stop' the pull before 'hitting the wall' of the O-T stop. I believe that causes a Higher Pull Reading. Pinching on the gage 'hook' lets me control the pull a bit better but it still gives me high readings on occasion. I'm really surprised No One has commented on this issue ANYWHERE before. I took careful look at a vid by another YTer (Pursuit of Accuracy) about a CZ and posted there regarding this. His gage measurements were 'similar to yours' in that he was reading ca 10-11 oz, but I was seeing and hearing the trigger "Click" when the gage was reading ca 5-6 oz. I posted my 'estimated readings' on his site but haven't heard back yet. - - Holidays i guess.
I hit send b4 saying - I really appreciated your vids and your attention to details. I've checked out many and subbed your channel.
Thanks a bunch Ed.
You are pulling the trigger at all different angles and that is contributing to the variations in pull weight.
100% agreed, thanks
RE; Hard Action...I had to take a grinder and trim off a bit on the "TRIGGER SCREW ". It was binding on the Action Bolt when tightened up to appropriate amount. That fixed it completely.
Re; Action Screws Torque.. Yes I played with them. The front screw towards muzzle made the gun shoot best. Ive really not got results on two screw actions in tuning. On my Savage 3 Screw it made a huge difference in accuracy.
I actually changed trigger out and used a JARED Trigger in the end at 4 OZ. The Timney just wasnt light enough for me.I have Timneys in other guns.Just not in my 22's. Im actually have a Savage Accu-trigger that is my all time favorite. I guess its just a Freak. Its Perfect in my 33XC.. But the other Accu-Triggers in 2 other rifles are junk. Im changing out to a Timney as soon as I rebarrel them.
Shooting from 50 yds to 600 yards I have 50 MOA Rail and a Zeiss S5 scope with 20 MOA Rings. M y gun likes Lapua Super Long Range and RWS 50. best. However other than a flyer now and then the CCI Mini Mags shoot awesome in it.Not much luck with any ELEY so far.
Good Video.Thanks. It was quite helpful.
Timney trigger is good, but CZ trigger is good too. If you are happy with the original one, keep it. I have both, the difference between CZ and Timney are small.
I personally have mixed feelings on the CZ trigger. I really do not think much of the trigger weight adjustment but the pre-travel adjustment was usefully on my AT-ONE. I never really like the trigger on the AT-ONE. The trigger on my VPT was good, I just replaced the trigger spring with a Yo-Dave springing and I am pretty. With that said I will most likely change to the trigger at some point.
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV You know, I takes my words back. After I spent more time with a timney trigger I like it a lot more. But a standard trigger is still decent.
Bret, I would recommend an adjustable front rest for your ARA larger targets, set for center top paper and level. You should slightly lean forward on a bipod, which did happen a couple of times but moved back and forth. If you want to continue using a bipod, you will need cleats, swivel, cant and level capability. Watch your video, focus on your movements, as you move higher, meaning you need to get butt lower your not as accurate. When you have to move the butt higher you are more comfy and accurate. There is a movement range with a rear bag that you head, neck, torso, elbow and back feels good when shooting from a bench.
This is why adjustable front rest is better, with the least amount of movement on your comfort the better, unless you get one of those fancy bipods, still a pain in the butt. The more comfortable you are the more repeatable your groups will be with good ammo. But for making a video for us, sh-- whatever is easier, looked like fun with the trigger careless about center punch.
? of Torque:
Depends on materials evolved.
With composite or just wood stocks, let's just say your rifle especially with high powered rifles are moving up and down and side to side during multiple shots avoid sleds with HP rifles. When hunting not much of a concern, distances are not great enough for concern, unless you are a sniper. Temp, altitude, sunlight and humidity also dramatically effects wood more so than metal. Even some plastic/polymer stocks in sunlight will expand and contract. Not all is lost, I have one Boyd stock, came with a Savage Minimalist, there is 0 metal in these stocks and are compressed wood or composite wood blend.
Where the screw meets the stock and rifle mounts, I would use metal (minimum) with flat metal and rubber washers (thin). See below links and find your size required, buy a bunch of different ones (cheap), test them (experiment) on a spare or old stock or scrap wood (add metal/wood glue), tool them if required, use rubber washers and replace them every year. This ensure free float by sizing the front from a 1/64th to 3/16th in spacing between stock and rifle front mount and an inexpensive way of stabilizing your rifles platform. The rifle platform needs predictable repeatable stability, hence repeatable harmonics from the receiver to the barrel. Your rifles harmonics will change if you remove it from the stock. In free floating not just the barrel but free floating the entire rifle your harmonics are repeatable, but for 22lr ahh stability and best affordable repeatability is all you need whether it touches the receiver or not. Meaning, even though the stock touches the receiver it can still be repeatable, you just want stable repeatable connections between the stock and rifle mounts/platform.
Have you ever heard anybody say, "somethings wrong with my rifle, once I changed the stock" or "hey once I changed the stock it shoots like a tack driver"? Same rifle 2 differing results, I wonder why, cheek riser, feel, more stable? :) Rigid stocks are good, but some folks can't afford the cost of decent/good materials. If you have a plastics stock just use metal washer and metal lock washers for free float and stability, if bench rest shooting, bed it as well and sand the forestock sides until not touching. Test torque setting with screw and nut, at room temp, as soon as any stress on the plastic is noticed back up 2-3 lbs (document).
www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Standard-SAE-3-Prong-Tee-Nut/3025387?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_126_Fastening-_-3025387-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqvaNBhDLARIsAH1Pq51WGgCfXBsJuusjXjlcAmukFC6s-L2gcMCwFq-UgwtoVAhF2SqA4M4aAoWwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-3-8-in-Brass-Standard-SAE-Wood-Insert-Lock-Nut/3012578
www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Hex-Flanged-Internal-Threads/dp/B002WC8TVG/ref=asc_df_B002WC8TVG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312379347118&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12138363914235280538&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010587&hvtargid=pla-569786774285&psc=1
Steyr barrel process... is why stock Steyr rifles are used around the world to this day as sniper rifles by mostly rag tag armies. Look it up... Even the Russians use Steyr SSG 08 in .308 WIN / .300 WM / .338 LM. Syrian rebels captured them from the Russian and Syrian soldiers and turned them and other older Steyrs against them.
ua-cam.com/video/aCMzyNHkjpk/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/dC7pWfM3ngU/v-deo.html
Billy Bob, Thanks for the details. I’ll have to print and read through this a few more times but I find the information helpful. I have really been focused the last few matching on being consistent with me handling of the rifle and placement of the rifle. I think 2022 will be a great year to nail down the detail of my shooting and become a consistent shooter. Thanks again for time the time, to help me and my viewer.
Two things I noticed on your trigger weight testing. First of all, you have to always put the gauge on the exact same spot of the trigger. A couple of times you put it right on the edge and got inconsistent readings. The second tip, you will get more accurate results if you pull parallel to the barrel. You were pulling at a downward angle. Otherwise, good video!
good eye you are 100% correct. I have challenges with the camera placement and pulling the trigger gauge and seeing what I am doing.
You really need to put the pull tester on the trigger in the same place every time. Leverage is different when you put it at the very bottom of the trigger (9 oz) pull compared to 1/4” higher (10 oz) pull.
Good point, I think I had trouble maneuvering around the camera and capturing the results on camera at the same time. Thanks for the comment.
Cool
legend
Beautiful and instructive video, I wanted to ask the tightening torque of the bolt that tightens the trigger box to how many N/m or IN/LB should it be tightened? The screws instead that tighten the entire action to the stock? Thanks for the reply
I am not 1005 sure I understand the question but I tighten both action screws to 24 IN/LB. I hope this helps, CZ recommends 40 IN/LB’s.
Thanks for the answer, yes you understood correctly... and the answer you gave me is very important for me, anyway why does it dye them so little if CZ recommends 40 IN/LB's?? Isn't 24 IN/LB' too little? The other question I asked you was about the screw that holds the sear box or trigger as you wish to call it. I recently put a trigger box for the CZ457 but I don't know how many IN/LB, could you suggest? Thank you for the time you dedicated to me! You are very kind
On the cz forum 30 in/lb for front screw and 25 in/lb for the rear screw.
thanks a bunch, I may try this. Currently I believe the rifle is shooting great.
Thanks would b same for the Fugly 457 Varmint MTR?
This is good because I had the same exact problem at first where the trigger was just locked and wouldn't fire. Like you I kept fighting with it and eventually it just snapped. Well done showing that!
I have shot over 500 rounds with the Timney in the AT-ONE and it performed flawlessly, Still not sure what happened during the install but I am very happy with the trigger,
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV yeah I tried it out on Friday for the first time and I was able to get four < 0.4 MOA 5 shot groups in a row at 50 yards with SK Standard Plus, so I look forward to trying it at 100 & 200 yards where I can more consistently stay sub MOA before the trigger upgrade
I’m excited to see how much it helps
SORRY !! That "Other vid" I mentioned was NOT PoAccuracy, It was an 'other' vid of yours, the one about "Trigger Failure CZ457" and You DID reply to that comment.
I do wish there was a more accurate gage, but I've watched vids done with the Lyman gage and it does the same thing. As I said earlier, my V-MTR is around 3-5 oz, but if I pull 'Normally' it will 'hit the wall' and register ca 11 oz or more. I'm going to try the "Water/weight" pull test to see if that gets a better reading. I have a digital luggage scale I used before getting the Wheeler.
me know if you find a better scale.
I did replace my CZ455 with a Timney trigger and was ok but for my CZ457 the Jodave trigger spring got it down exactly 8 ounces but I lost the first stage. But it’s never going to be as good as my Anschutz rifles
YES, BUT THEY WILL ALSO NEVER BE THE SAME PRICE AS YOUR ANSCHUTZ AS WELL!!🤷♂️😉
Glad to hear that as I have an Anschutz 1761 MPR LH on order . My CZ is a great little gun but I’m hoping the Anschutz will be even better with the 21 “ barrel I might also order a longer barrel for the CZ At One
That Timney is AWESOME and so easy to install - enjoy it :)
I like it a lot. You get spoiled when you have a nice trigger.
Great video. Will watch more to see if you figured out your inconsistencies in your trigger and your action screw torques. I put my action screws to 35 inch pounds and haven’t played around with them. I do have a Timney trigger inbound should be here soon.
I have 2 CZs and from reading 'Many' posts on RFC and CZ-forum, it is advised by 'Users' (not CZ) to torque about 25-28 ip to get best accuracy. Maybe you should 'Play around' a bit . . .
@@ed1099 thanks Ed will do.
Your shooting is quite good ,but I wonder if it could be improved by shooting horizontal lines rather than going up and down which is a big change of point of aim veriically whereas moving horizontally retains a more positive attachment at your shoulder. Just an observation not a critisim. Cheers
Thanks, I have tried both but with the bipod and rear bag it is not as easy to move horizontally. I feel it is easier to keep the rifle and myself aligned with the target moving up and down but I need a stock with a nice slope like my AT1
That install is so much easier than pounding out the pins on a remington clone.
lol, was nice and smooth.
Try SK PISTOL MATCH - they may be better than SK PMS SPECIAL. Recomended bolt action screw torgue is 35 inch/lb for wooden stocks , but you know it well. It must be checkedt after buying your gun. My Anni had loose ones to my amusement
Nice. I love my Timminy Custom Calvin Elite set about 8 oz. Seems lighter. Glad you like it
I do, thanks for the comment.
One thing more - re your shooting style. Have you tried 'pinching the trigger' instead of pulling. I find that gives 'less disturbance' to my aim. With low pull it seems better to me. . .
I have I do that on my lighter triggers but maybe I should try it on these 6-8 ounce triggers.
mine goes down to 2.2 oz. you also need to check with a bullet in the chamber that will change you readings
Good to know, I have purchased a second Timney trigger with the intention of installing it in my CZ457 VPT, we’ll see. Thanks maybe I’ll be more aggressive on that rifle. I will say I have shot over 500 rounds with the Timney in the AT-ONE and it performed flawlessly,
I start at 10 inch pounds, and work my way up, shooting ten shots, then adjust the screws. My CZ 457mtr shoots best with 25 inch pounds.
Thanks I am going to have to play with this. Why not I have tried everything else. Thanks for the comment.
Bret, have you thought about trying a tuner. I'm using the ATS TUNER. It seems to have helped.
Since I shoot this in the ARA factory match I can not add a tuner.
A question on the Athlon Argo, how good is this scope in the quality of the glass and the turrets adjustments? I have an early Athlon Argo scope the glass is so-so, and the turret's in elevation is not good. I don't know or understand that a company when first starting, the product line fair, but improvements are made into the product line. The early model went back into its box. I am looking into what you are doing, 22 caliber thing! Retired.
Please keep in mind, I use this scope to shoot 50 yards ARA match only. I believe this scope is great for this purpose. The functionality is GREAT but the glass is not but keep in mind I keep this scope at 40X 100% of the time, so I think most scopes will not be at their best at max zoom.
I think you'll have to spend $2000 or more to get a better scope with 40X zoom.
I think for this purpose as I described you can not bet this scope, make sure you get the gen2
Yeah timmney trigger are the best but it sure sucks to try to get one I have 3 457 czs and I can't use a computer and these people won't answer their phone or at least for me if I had a company I would be all over that phone trying to make money but you just can't get a call through to them or they won't answer answer their phone for me. How did you get your trigger from them? If you're looking to get a trigger from timney good luck I am still trying to call.
Beagleman
I don’t know what happened to their customer service.
Mine did that weird bolt thing too. Turned out my scope rail was too tight. May have gone out of position on it's side
hum interesting, I have the Area 419 scope mount and the screws are on the side, one of the things I like about the base. I had no issues at the range. I think for what ever reason things needed to settle in a bit.
Nice video I just purchased the same rifle but with the 16" barrel there was I thought too much movement barrel seemed to loose I tightened the action screws but not sure to what torque it should be
I have mine at 40 in. lbs.
I know this is different than your question but I figure I'd let you know I will be doing a video testing different torque setting.
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV thanks I will check what the torque is
CZ gives the torque spec in the book. I think it is 35 Nm but check to be sure.
@@scottwood8255 thanks Scott I had it bedded and it is much better now . I wish it would quit snowing so I can get out to the range in more favourable conditions.
Thanks again for your advice
Do you have any thoughts on if I should get the “at-one” or Varmint MTR? I like the look of the MTR more but I also like to shoot suppressed.
I do not, I really like the AT-One for the adjustable stock. As best as I can tell from shooting against others who have shot the MTR, the “Match Chamber” may not been as important as one would like to think. I actually think that is a compliment to CZ excellent quality rifles.
You need a torque screwdriver
How is your Timney trigger working out for you? I am starting to have 3-4 failures to fire out of 30 or so rounds. I’m not sure if the Timney trigger is the cause or if the firing pin spring is getting weak. I have a spring coming from CZ hopefully that’s the problem. CZ 457 MTR shooting center X so I don’t think it’s the ammo.
John, I have had challenges. After talking to Timney the first units to go out the the sear spring was too light. Timney did send me springs but they said I only would have to remove one pin. That doesn't seem to the case. I have tried to contact Timney for help but they have not returned my calls or email and it had been over a week. I plan on RMA the trigger and have it fixed or replaced.
I will say the trigger was beautiful when it worked and it did work flawlessly for about 1,500 rounds. Please see video below, with an example of my trigger challenges. I will have a more detailed video coming soon.
Feel free to check out the video below where I had issues. I have chapter marked a couple of places in the video I had problems.
ua-cam.com/video/SJNT7SFw11I/v-deo.html
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV It was like you said great until a few days ago. Thinking I would be better off with the Yo Dave spring kit in the factory trigger. I’ve got to check the ARA rule book about that. Great videos! Thanks…
@@johnyoung4466 ARA allows the Yo-Dave spring. I had the Yo-Dave spring in my trigger till I got the Timney trigger.
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV thanks I think I’ll give it a try. How did you like yours?
Personally I cut the trigger spring by one and half coil. With fine tuning the three adjustable screws from the factory trigger, I have achieved the trigger weight and break point I wanted
Nice, I have heard other who do the same. I am glad that works. Can’t beat the cost.
There is no problem dry firing CZ rifles, or any modern rimfire, without a snap cap.
Charles, if that is correct that is music to my ears. Thanks a bunch for sharing.
The manual says to keep dry fire to a minimum, it is still best to use a snap cap just to make sure you don’t bure the barrel.
What is Timneys trigger pull range for the one you installed? Mine says 10 oz - 2lbs.
same but I believe I am at 8oz. with little effort adjusting the screw. Timney quote the same 10oz - 2lbs.
I just rewater the video to get the pull weight. I ended up being at less than 6 oz. I really like to Tinmey trigger but I have had issues lately, Timnet sent me a new Sear spring but i have not had time to install it. Video on that coming.
I just installed mine today. So far no issues from the get go, got it set at 10oz. Very nice trigger.
"E" Clip. Thanks for the vid.
thanks for chiming in.
After 2 months in what’s your opinion on the trigger , I’ve been going to grab a cpl one for the bergara and one for the rpr
I am loving the trigger, I hope to do a follow up video shortly.
@@AimSmallMissSmall_TV 👍👍👍
30 inch pounds on the receiver screws is what I use.
Thanks a bunch for sharing. I might do a video on different tightness coming in the near future.
I experimented with 15 lb to 65 lbs. The factory recommendation of 55 lbs is best. But, mine is a Bergara b14 r carbon fiber
wow, that is tight. Thanks for the feed back.
I BELIEVE ANYWHERE FROM 30 TO 40 INCH LB IS THE TICKET FOR RIMFIRES!
@@Plainsimple67 Thanks Sam, I am at 40 for both right now.
What torque settings are you using in the At One ?
40 inch lbs from and back. I may try to adjust to the right tuning of my rifle but since I am not convinced this help I have not done it.
At 5oz you need to drop test your rifle...
Yes, I bang the rifle butt to the ground a couple of times. I also like to slam the bolt closed.
Doughbanger
Why do I need to put a $200 Timney Trigger on a $1000 dollar rifle ????? NOT ME !!!!!
why with that attitude i doubt you would ever by a $1000 rifle
@@chrissmith-gb5et 😂😂😂 NAILED IT, I THINK HE WILL BUY A VUDOO!!😉😂😂
I am actually very happy I did install the Timney. I will have a follow up video shortly.
First off you are supposed to take the bolt out on the install. Second you should learn how to use the scale. You are making a great trigger look bad because you don't know what your doing.
hum, Step 2 of the Instruction say to remove the bolt. Step 6 is to insert the bolt and test. Not sure what you mean by not knowing how to use the scale.
Dumb thumbnail wont help expand your channel!
Sorry, I was happy the the trigger came out. I was trying to show my excitement. thanks for the constructive feedback.