For RCA's i wrap them in aluminum foil, then wrap it in electrical tape twisted around so they are bendable without breaking the aluminum foil. Also use a 0 ga ground wire from front to back but its attached to part of the body (crip with nut an bolt) the 2nd battery along with the 2 amps are grounded there as well. The foil is a great cheap way to give your wires the best defense against radio interference.😄
use cat7 cable with rca ends, the heavy shielding on cat 7 will block all the noise. you still have to deal with ground loop, but inductive noise will be blocked
I think Dub was asking about ground paths and not so much alternator whine. I think he mistakenly used the term ground loop. As far as using the vehicle body as a ground path, it depends. If your power levels are low, like 1k or 2k watts, that type of current should have no problem flowing through a typical steel chassis. Now if your vehicle is made from aluminum or your running lots more power, then you might get excessive resistance. Some unibody, spot welded chassis just don't provide a good electrical ground path front to rear. If your vehicle is aluminum, uses epoxy instead of spot welds in certain areas or your just running a lot of current, then I'd say to add a ground cable front to rear just like the power cable.
Right - I did explain that portion on the live I believe - each vehicle is different Easy way to reduce chances of that regardless is a dedicated ground so you can tell how much resistance you have rather than guessing 👍🏼
Wise words of wisdom knowledge and truth spoken from a very wise man
Thanks Garrick ❤️💪🏼
For RCA's i wrap them in aluminum foil, then wrap it in electrical tape twisted around so they are bendable without breaking the aluminum foil. Also use a 0 ga ground wire from front to back but its attached to part of the body (crip with nut an bolt) the 2nd battery along with the 2 amps are grounded there as well. The foil is a great cheap way to give your wires the best defense against radio interference.😄
use cat7 cable with rca ends, the heavy shielding on cat 7 will block all the noise. you still have to deal with ground loop, but inductive noise will be blocked
Woah- I’ll have to look into that - no need for twisted RCA’s then huh? I’ve just never heard of that before 👊🏼
@@LivinLoudwithAndy cat7 comes with 4 twisted pairs, sheilded seperate, and shielding over the groups, it wil stop noise.
I think Dub was asking about ground paths and not so much alternator whine. I think he mistakenly used the term ground loop.
As far as using the vehicle body as a ground path, it depends. If your power levels are low, like 1k or 2k watts, that type of current should have no problem flowing through a typical steel chassis.
Now if your vehicle is made from aluminum or your running lots more power, then you might get excessive resistance. Some unibody, spot welded chassis just don't provide a good electrical ground path front to rear.
If your vehicle is aluminum, uses epoxy instead of spot welds in certain areas or your just running a lot of current, then I'd say to add a ground cable front to rear just like the power cable.
If your vehicle has a frame, then the frame is an excellent path and can flow tons of current through it.
Right - I did explain that portion on the live I believe - each vehicle is different
Easy way to reduce chances of that regardless is a dedicated ground so you can tell how much resistance you have rather than guessing 👍🏼
yus
I just bought a 12'' L7T sealed enclosure, should i put deading material inside. Would it improve the bass.
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Too bad you can’t add an ultra capacitor at the alternator output to smooth the ripple
you can
Yes the SB500 from XS Power would be perfect for that if that’s all true 👊🏼🔋
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