Subaru Forester Clutch Replacement
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- Replacing the clutch on a 1997 Subaru Forester 2.0 GLS (non turbo).
This old Subaru only gets used for a bit of fun round fields, its been off the road since 2013. The clutch finally gave up about 2 months ago and the car has been sitting. I got a new blue print kit for £80.
As clutches go its not too bad, once up on the lift everything is accessible, there were no particularly stubborn or rusty fasteners. The most awkward part is getting the gearbox off the engine it takes a bit of prying but does come off. The turbo models may differ slightly with regards removing the exhaust and accessibility.
thanks for the instructions today we replacet our clutch of the forester in 5 hours
Good to hear, you did it in good time well done
Where did you get the flywheel turned? Is it chattering yet? Sucks to do it again.
Great video, thanks for recording it. We appreciate it
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for this video. I'm deciding to do this job myself to save a shitload of money and I don't think I would have the confidence to do it without this video
Hi, thanks for the comment i hope the job goes well for you.
How did the job go?
Yeah how did it go?
Some say he’s still rebuilding it to this day….😂
Hey man, great job on this video! It really gave me confidence to remove the gearbox isntead of taking the engine out, especially when I need to replace drive shafts anyway. I probably only need to replace the main seal as it is leaking and clutch is slipping because of that, but you've shown the most important part of the job, so thanks on that.
And the people, who say it's too difficult, probably have never worked on a car before. It is really time consuming, but I don't see anything too difficult here.
Hi there,
Thanks for the comment, glad to hear the video helped. Ive had quite a few commenters say its easier to remove the engine although i didnt find removing the box particularly difficult just a few extra fasteners and parts to move. In general its a handy old car to work on, i hope yours still has good sills. The sills on this car had rusted away which is why it was sold on.
Well, in my case I don't find removing engine easier at least because it would get a lot messier here since I'd have to release the coolant before removing the engine. Also it has LPG system installed so that's some extra wiring and hoses to remove. And even without all that, the only advantage I see in the engine removal method is that I don't have the transmission support leg or whatever it's called, yet I have the "goose" to remove the engine, but having a couple extra hands of a friend would solve this issue I guess :)
The first time I replaced the clutch in my 2010 Forster I laid everything out on the floor as I removed them, oriented as they were in the car. Yes it can be tedious and it does take time (especially without a lift) but just take your time and and walk away for a few minutes if it gets to you. - I learned that one back in the 70's when I cracked my knuckles tightening the alternator on my '66 Mustang. The wrench slipped, I cursed and threw the wrench in the engine compartment which promptly cracked the distributor cap. Then I thought 'Great! Now I have two things to fix'. Cheaper and easier just to take your time.
Great video !! Such patience to remove all those parts. Great Job!
Thanks for the comment
Franchement un grand merci à toi pour cette vidéo et ses explications. C'est vraiment cool d'avoir tout filmé. Je suis en train d'acheter le même véhicule avec un embrayage à changer, je suis donc bien rassuré d'avoir vu l'opération avant.
👍👍👍
Merci pour votre commentaire
Bonne chance avec la réparation de votre embrayage subaru.
Nice, I have just got my transmission and clutch out. Now I have to wait for the new clutch 😸
Greatfull. I'm from Russia, but i don't find good video on russian language for the cluth repair on Forester, just bullshit. Now i know - i can do it. Thanks.
Pretty amazing job.
Thanks for the comment
Great editing. Well done!
Thanks for the comment
Amazing trick hammering the track road with 2 hammers. I can't believe how much I learned from you!!! I wonder how u remember so many screws to put them back in the same position.
It doesn't work quite as quick in real time a bit of video editing there haha, but the two hammers does work quite nicely.
As for the bolts i had a load of plastic trays lying on the table the various bolts were kept in them with notes as to where they go, otherwise i find it hard to remember.
+BestBuildPC Power of imagination What's the point of pulling the front end?
When you get into heavy stuff rigs ect it's the only way but first remove nut then by hand put it back on a few turns then get a big bar while prying the two apart smack the side of taper hard . The nut keeps things from flying around. I do car stuff one hammer same technique.
Excellent video. Well done
Excellent video. Well done mate
Thanks for the comment
As the ancient Tibetan Philosophy states,
"It's a Subaru, you're going to have to wiggle it a bit to get that back in."
Haha, quite true.
Might also include some part about wearing goggles to keep rust flakes out of the eyes.
Excelente video, muy explicativo me sacaste una gran duda que tenia y la que no me permitía bajar la caja de mi Subaru impreza 2007
Thanks for the comment, great to read you found the video useful!
Great video!! Very informative, well done
Great instructional vid, thanks!
Thanks for the comment
It's easier to remove the engine to replace the clutch, especially if you don't have a lift and a high-lift transmission jack.
I figured somebody beat me to that comment. Lol
Iam the thirth that though that!! I removed the engine in my Legacy...is the same engine and gearbox..and less complicate and you can work from the top! There is no need of lift machine.
Yup without question it's a lot easier.
It looks more confusing, that and you need an engine hoist
Need engine hoist , engine stand , more wire \ connections to deal with \
Thats alot of work!
A fair bit indeed
This is some serious work! I watched this entire video as I will have a Subie Tech do this at home tomorrow (friend). The entire clutch kit (FW, Clutch, PP, Fork clip and Release Bearing) was purchased. Hopefully all goes well with him at home. My RPMs went up and car barely moved lol. The coincidence was after 2 weeks of changing my spark plugs, she started slipping. Guess my luck at 68k miles?
Anyways, your video was very informative on the entire process. Is they're anything I should feel, or check after my clutch kit was installed? Assuming all is well and in place.
Thanks, bro! And thanks for sharing this video.
A clutches lifespan varies hugely depending on many factors. If the car is a turbo or na model may affect it, but more often it is the driving style of the previous owner that may have shortened the life of the clutch. However, this generation of forester is past the 20 year mark now so it can be forgiven for needing a clutch.
Things to check, i suppose if anything is out, inspect it as with some parts out of the road it may be a good time to change them. Perhaps if there is any oil leaking through the crankshaft oil seal behind the flywheel it may be the perfect time to change it, although im not sure if this is a common issue on foresters.
Check clutch fork for cracks top of fingers where the pivot plate weld is. This is a common failure.
I have to replace the clutch in my 2010 AWD turbo the positioning is a bitch, i have the lift the whole engine out to replace the clutch, even on the joist pulling everything apart there's just no room to work. So I had to hand it off to someone else with a better set up. I know when I'm beat.
I long for the day of the return of the rear drive 2wd small car.
The MX5 is still out there if you really need a small rwd car. Bit more twitchy in the snow and wet than a fwd hatchback though
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Not a sporty type. Some kind of a small econobox. I had a Mazda 808 years ago so something along those lines. And no frills and with a manual transmission. Right now I have 2 Toyota Yaris'' but they no longer make the hatchback, which I prefer so they are the closest thing to what I want. Luckily they require very little maintenance or repairs. .
@@vwhuggerII The renault twingo springs to mind in terms of a small econobox with a rwd rear engine layout. The smart possibly also but no longer are they as simple as the really old stuff.
Very nice vid as ever FP, I've no intention of ever owning a Forester (seats are too low sadly) but it's a pleasure to watch your vids.
Love the dent in the sump, that must save you half a litre or so. And the plants growing out of the wheel arch, can you grow mushrooms in there too? :oP
+Steve Earwig Ahy its a rudimentary form of a dry sump setup haha, tbh that sumps only been on about 3 months the last one was punctured, time for a sump guard.
The wheel arch was declared a conservation area so the plants can't be touched.
Yeah!!! A new video!! Nice. Thankssss a lot! please upload more videos how to push the rear hub from peugeot 406 1999 without hammering.
Hello again hows things, i have the rear backplate video it shows the rear hub coming off with a bearing puller. I need to change the clutch on the 406 so a video should be about as soon as the job is finished
yeah but I watched the video already but how to push it inside without using a 40 mm socket hammering instead of using a professional tool like u see in peugeot book. I was trying to find them but I couldn't. Can u send me uf watsup phone so I can send u pictures. Greetings from Netherlands
Yes very good video. I can see you are one hell of a mechanic by the way you move. If you had some air tools you would probably time travel. :-)
Haha the video editing speeds it up fairly quickly. I considered buying an air impact wrench but ended up getting a cordeless one which seems to be great at speeding up work on cars.
peugeotCitroen2CV air ratchets are pretty sweet too. Get a decent one and you can use it to break stuff lose and then just hit the trigger. I also think you would prefer the 1/2 air gun as well. That electric one sounds and looks like it spins like a drill. If you don't have a compressor a battery powered 1/2 impact gun would be almost as good.
It was the expense of buying an air compressor with sufficent volume, air lines, regulators and so on.
The electric one i used here was a clarke unit, it cost about £50 and was actually quite good if a but heavy and hard to regulate the trigger when tightening things, it certainly seemed adequatley torquey.
I bought the Milwaukee 1/2 18v impact wrench, so far it hasnt failed to remove any fasteners, its quite handy when getting parts in a scrapyard.
I used an Engine hoist. I took the engine out instead. Disconnected the connectors, and exhaust. Left the ac compressor off to the side. It was easier in my opinion.
Hi, thanks for the comment. It's a common enough debate subject.
Unfortunately at the time i had no access to an engine hoist, and made the decision that the gearbox was the easier route to do the job. Havent had another scooby to try it the engine out method.
It’s funny most people are saying to pull the engine. Got quoted by two shops with access to lift \ hoist and both said they pull the trans for clutch jobs.. 650-750$ alone ....
Very much six of one half a dozen of another.
I had spoke with a few rally men around here that ran imprezzas and they said take the box out, possibly the NA forester might have less to take out than a turbo imprezza but even so with it as rusty as it was you had to contend with rusty exhaust bolts and jubilee clips around the coolant system that could break. There was a bit more work with regards the suspension taking the box out but at least all those bolts were fairly substantial and did not snap when trying to remove them.
work well explained!
thanks for the comment
Wouldn't pulling the engine be easier to replace the clutch instead of disconnecting all the axles? Pulling the engine would save time too. You would need to drain the coolant remove the upper and lower hoses, pull the radiator, and move the power steering pump, and the A/C compressor out of the way (lines still attached), then unplug the engine harness connectors, remove the airbox, remove the fuel lines, remove the starter (same as pulling the transmission), unbolt the motor mounts, then pull the motor with the clutch attached to the flywheel. I think you can pull the motor in less than an hour, and probably in 2 hours if you're slow, it's still easier than pulling the transmission. You just have to remove any air in the cooling system, by burping the cooling system after reinstalling the engine, and refilling the coolant.
It was another option i had considered, having said that i dont think disconnecting two driveshafts to the front wheels and the one going to the rear differential was a lot of work. The engine route just seemed like more work especially on this car which was old, taking the gearbox out seemed like it would be less work.
This video will discourage people from doing this very simple job. 2 hours ... engine and trans attached .
Agreed. And while you have the engine out, you can do other stuff that (with a Subaru) probably needs doing (head gaskets).
Pienso lo mismo manito, mucho quilombo para hacer el cambio de disco
Thnk's😀👍👍
fantastic ! thanks.
ha the ball joints are never that easy up here in northern Michigan... i usually leave all that connected when pulling axles, also when dropping the transmission you have enough side to side play the pull the axles out of the transmission only.
draperb1
In fairness here in Northern Ireland salt is also used in the winter so cars will rust, the sills (rocker panels) on this forester were quite crumbly.
Although as you say the free play is sufficient to pull the axles/driveshafts out of the gearbox. Thanks for the suggestion.
Next time loosen be axles from the inside and loosen the ball joints to pull everything away from the transmission. Less work. Also, loosen the driveshaft from the rear, not the front. That way you don’t lose oil
Dont need to adjust the pedal or anything?
great video! are there any other parts that might as well get replaced with so much stuff removed and loosened?
It might depend on how you tackle the job.
Some recommend taking the engine out, although i took the box out. In doing so you have droplinks, wishbone bushes, track rod ends, rear gearbox mount, cv shafts and rear propshaft joints you can inspect.
This was a field car so it was getting put back together with the old parts regardless.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the info
Is this being done down a mine shaft? Turn the lights on.
Being done in a shed that wasnt mine at a time before i had my own lift. I have a fair few more lights under my own lift now haha.
My clutch and fly wheel need to be replaced on my 2001 Subaru Forester. Got quoted $1,429.19 for it. Oh man.... This is pretty intimidating though. Never really done anything with a car before other than drive it and change oil and wheels. The usual.
That seems like quite a lot, may be worth pricing around. All in this cost under £100 in parts i took a couple of nights at it (filming slowed the process down) the lift was a huge help, i believe its possible to do this without a lift but i dont like crawling in underneath cars.
peugeotCitroen2CV what do you recommend doing if I don’t have the lift thing to hold the gear box and I’m changing the clutch without lifting the car?
I got offered a 1999 Forrester with a bad clutch for $150 but nevermind. This seems like an absolute bitch to do, nevermind without a lift.
Its possible to do it without a lift get the car lifted high enough on axle stands, seen it done there are videos out there of it but its a lot more work i wouldn't be in a rush to tackle this job without a lift, just asking for a sore back trying to heave the gearbox out of the road. Having said that $150 is seriously cheap for a forester, about £110 here, if its rust free the clutch wouldn't be too bad, what are the values of a running one like where you are?
peugeotCitroen2CV
I am in the North Eastern US. He said it had new valves and recent timing belt/water pump. Fair amount of rust but nothing structural. Had 200k miles on the engine and 315k miles on the body. Said he wanted $150 because that's what the junkyard offered him. It was only worth about $900 KBB.
+CTJacob
Ah salt on the roads during the winter months then.
It would be a good thing for a bit of fun round some fields, thats basically all this one of mine gets used for, there is rust on it and then both sills have crumbled away.
Old SF foresters are cheap here, they are not particualrly economical on the fuel especially compared to diesels, having said that if i could buy one with a good rust free shell i would have another.
The non turbo engines are almost easier to remove than removing the transmission. Friend of mine does not have a lift. Has removed the engine, reclutched, and had it back in, in about 3 hours. For a standard Impreza non turbo or what have you, and you don't have a lift, that's the way to go. My 2.0l Impreza engine looks like cake to remove.
Just pull moter out so much better
Where you from mate ?
00000 Northern Ireland
Just watched a American Chanel doing the same thing he removed the engine and left gear box in he way looks so much easier what's you take on this ???
+Shane Kneeshaw I watched a video where someone took the engine out instead of the gearbox, taking it out seems more work than the gearbox, i rang a subaru dismantlers/mechanics that is near me they recommended taking the gearbox out which appeared easier on the forester.
+peugeotCitroen2CV interesting thanks love the vid as I'm a very big Citroen fan new and old
+Shane Kneeshaw Do what?
Non turbo / turbo the same?
I am not sure, never owned a turbo model. Inevitably it will have a few extra pipes.
Задний сальник не меняли и подшипник?)
Not at all haha.
This was a £200 off road field car, such extravigant expnese was not wasted on it.
would this be the same process on an forester 2004 2.0L (non turbo)? it all seems very similar
+NozzyTheFox
Although i havent worked on one looking under the bonnet of the newer model it looks similar to this one.
Would the removal process be the same for an automatic?
It should be mostly the same, although id say closer to the removal process pay more attention, especially when removing the torque converter.
does the inner oil seals need replacing? lot of fluid around the axles
Ideally if it was a daily driver you should change them (this forester is just basically a field car) having said that this old forester hasn't leaked any oil since the clutch was done.
👍
Anyone have an idea what this whole process should cost at a shop in the U.S.? Ball park figure of course.
600-750 is what I was quoted, I did it myself from the floor
@@loves2smooch384 HOW!??
How long it take?
It took me about 3 days to do, although that was because i had to set the camera up for the various shots to create this video.
It should be possible to do this in a few hours.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV just did it after work. took me 6 hours. i was working with a co worker on it who insisted i shouldn't rotate the crank to align the splines. sure enough once i did it slipped on like a glove...
I can pay $400 to get it replaced or do it myself with none of the tools he has
Superb
Yeah, the tools, man
24 people are hard to please
Free Saxon
Haha probably the ones who prefer taking the engine out option.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV what do you think about getting the engine out?
@@-ahvilable-6654 Half a dozen of one six of the other...
The engine out seemed like more work, the coolant system, a number of wires had to be removed etc.
The gearbox out meant front driveshafts and a propshaft. Possibly with the engine out you have better access to do things like the spark plugs and timing belt.
All,that to,put a,clutch in? Just pull the,engine
Greg Mccarter
The old phrase half a dozen of one, six of the other.
Ffdh
Чем сымысол вашвидио
I'm sorry, I don't speak Russian. Can you rephrase your question in English?
translated it asks "what is your vision?" which does not really make any sense either i think translate may have lost the intended meaning.