Very Good Video. Not only the boring way to learn with facts, your videos are full of energy and fun. I have already seen a lots of your videos and I am surprised more and more how useful they are. I just want to let you know that you make a good job and I am gonna buy your e-book! Thanks.
That's actually a pretty cool trick, and while, as you say, there are tools for dealing with CAs, there will certainly be times when this would be useful. So thanks for sharing.
This is great but how do you make this work on skin, like around the arms in a portrait? On color, hue or saturation and painting over only makes it more distinct. Thank you! I can't find anything on youtube about fixing this on ppl/skin.
Brilliant tutorial. I am REALLY impressed with the the quality of your unedited images. please share the camera and lens settings for this KIND of sharpness, because I went to a bird park recently and shot many birds BUT none of them are anywhere close to your shots, although I also used a Nikkor 70-300mm VR lens. Thank you very much for your time and effort.
Two thoughts - the first is that the 70-300 is, sadly, not one of Nikon's sharper lenses, especially at the long end. The other is that when people have problems with sharpness it's often a result of just no having enough shutter speed. I always recommend trying a little faster shutter speed before anything else and see if your images improve :)
Steve Perry Thank you very much for your response. I shot all the shots in Aperture priority and the camera always kept the shutter speed faster than the focal length and the VR was also ON in all shots. However...the smaller aperture is what has been letting me down. I kept the auto ISO on and at times...the camera went as high as 25600 ISO in order to keep the exposure "correct" for the eyes of the birds...even at daytime. I shot mostly at f/6.3...neither wide open nor the sweet spot, which many claim that for the 70-300mm VR is f/8. I chose something in the middle. Still...the results were very far from desired. Anyways... I recently bought a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 VC Macro. I do hope to get some presentable macro shots with this one. Thank you very much for your time and effort. You are my inspiration when it comes to wildlife photography.
One thing to consider - the old focal length / shutter speed guide often doesn't work well for modern, high pixel density cameras (crop cameras, D810, even 24MP full frame). Many times you need more shutter speed, especially if the animal is moving. My bird in flight shots with my d500 are often at 1/3200th to keep them sharp. With less motion, I drop my shutter speeds. Of course, if you're in dim conditions, high ISO can also contribute to softness in the overall image. The truth is, sometimes the conditions just work against you for a shot. I try to put myself into situations where I have enough light to pull off what I need and skip those times where I know I'd need crazy high ISO.
Steve Perry Well... I have never even tried to shoot a bird in flight, because I know that I don't have the camera or the lens to do that. I always shoot them in cages (ha ha ha...in a zoo) or while they are well settled on a branch or something. That said...it doesn't mean that I shouldn't keep shooting and practising...😀. So I will keep learning until I find/save the means for better gear.
Hello I have a little problem, I followed every exact step, but instead of chromatic abberation being removes I just end up getting thick white lines. What am I doing wrong?
well , first thanks for this..I might just add that when I did this I noticed that you only can do this step ONCE. When you do brush over this areas AGAIN, new aberration areas APPEAR..
3 years Later and you are by far the most helpful tutorial on youtube! Thank you!!!
and it sitll is after 8 years. XD
Such a helpful video. Your tutorials are always very concise yet very thorough. Thank you
Glad to see a new video from you Steve. I always look forward to learning new tips and tricks. Looks like this is another winner. Thanks!!
I spent a lot of last weekend trying to find a simple solution to fixing CA. This is much faster and simpler! You win :) Thanks for posting this!
Big thanks for this helpful video; now I found a way to correct the lovely photos I take with my vintage lenses; stay blessed 🙌🏼
Very Good Video. Not only the boring way to learn with facts, your videos are full of energy and fun. I have already seen a lots of your videos and I am surprised more and more how useful they are. I just want to let you know that you make a good job and I am gonna buy your e-book! Thanks.
7 years later it is still very useful!
Excellent. Recently I started learning Affinityphoto & I have been struggling to remove CA & fringing. Thanks a lot for this video.
Very good tutorial Steve.
That's actually a pretty cool trick, and while, as you say, there are tools for dealing with CAs, there will certainly be times when this would be useful. So thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing this, Steve! Really useful tips
Thanks a bunch for this, Steve!
This is still a great trick. Awsome tutorial.
Incredibly helpful! Thank you so much :)
Nicely explained. Thanks
You're back!
+Mr M Yup - and I am going to do my best to never be gone that long again :)
Thank you for this tutorial, it has been a massive help :)
Great Steve thanks! I will sometimes have CA on people images that are underexposed with a bright background. Can't wait to try this method.
Excellent tutorial!!
Steve, thank you for this!
excellent tricks
Great tips thanks
nicely done, now i know why adobe stock always declined my photos...Thanks man, Subscribed done!
Thank you man!!!!! Great lesson!
excellent trick!
Thank you very much - keep up your great work !!!
Nice Video
very informative
nice info bro.. thankyou so much
This is great and can I apply it to Astro images….Star chromatic fringing too?
Thanks Steve! Very Helpful!
Great video as I just ran across this issue.
This is great but how do you make this work on skin, like around the arms in a portrait? On color, hue or saturation and painting over only makes it more distinct. Thank you! I can't find anything on youtube about fixing this on ppl/skin.
Steve would you consider doing a tutorial on correct technique for using a Long lens like the Nikon 500mm f4. Settings, shutter speeds, focus etc.
Fantastic!
Brilliant tutorial. I am REALLY impressed with the the quality of your unedited images. please share the camera and lens settings for this KIND of sharpness, because I went to a bird park recently and shot many birds BUT none of them are anywhere close to your shots, although I also used a Nikkor 70-300mm VR lens.
Thank you very much for your time and effort.
Two thoughts - the first is that the 70-300 is, sadly, not one of Nikon's sharper lenses, especially at the long end. The other is that when people have problems with sharpness it's often a result of just no having enough shutter speed. I always recommend trying a little faster shutter speed before anything else and see if your images improve :)
Steve Perry Thank you very much for your response. I shot all the shots in Aperture priority and the camera always kept the shutter speed faster than the focal length and the VR was also ON in all shots. However...the smaller aperture is what has been letting me down. I kept the auto ISO on and at times...the camera went as high as 25600 ISO in order to keep the exposure "correct" for the eyes of the birds...even at daytime. I shot mostly at f/6.3...neither wide open nor the sweet spot, which many claim that for the 70-300mm VR is f/8. I chose something in the middle. Still...the results were very far from desired.
Anyways... I recently bought a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 VC Macro. I do hope to get some presentable macro shots with this one.
Thank you very much for your time and effort. You are my inspiration when it comes to wildlife photography.
One thing to consider - the old focal length / shutter speed guide often doesn't work well for modern, high pixel density cameras (crop cameras, D810, even 24MP full frame). Many times you need more shutter speed, especially if the animal is moving. My bird in flight shots with my d500 are often at 1/3200th to keep them sharp. With less motion, I drop my shutter speeds. Of course, if you're in dim conditions, high ISO can also contribute to softness in the overall image. The truth is, sometimes the conditions just work against you for a shot. I try to put myself into situations where I have enough light to pull off what I need and skip those times where I know I'd need crazy high ISO.
Steve Perry Well... I have never even tried to shoot a bird in flight, because I know that I don't have the camera or the lens to do that. I always shoot them in cages (ha ha ha...in a zoo) or while they are well settled on a branch or something. That said...it doesn't mean that I shouldn't keep shooting and practising...😀. So I will keep learning until I find/save the means for better gear.
thank you..very helpful.
Works fine and well for the cyan blue, but not so much for red/purple. Is there a similar trick to get rid of it? Thanks!
Thanks Steve... Big help. Thumbs up...
I managed to do this with Paintshop Pro x9 - the procedure is almost exactly the same.
Awesome thanks for the tip
Thanks !
5:20 this picture is absolutely stunning, would buy a poster of it. :D
👏 thank you!
What graphic tab. are you using in this video?
Nice trick, well done :-)
thank you
Thanks for this content Steve.. been a while.
See you on FM
+John Skinner Thanks John - Yup, and I agree - way too long since my last post. This should be a better year :)
Thank You!!
thanks
thankz..it really works
Hello I have a little problem, I followed every exact step, but instead of chromatic abberation being removes I just end up getting thick white lines. What am I doing wrong?
well , first thanks for this..I might just add that when I did this I noticed that you only can do this step ONCE.
When you do brush over this areas AGAIN, new aberration areas APPEAR..
Your videos are great but I like your songs more! :D
Hey! I have the same combination, D7200 and 300 mm f4 PF!
+Magnus Claesson It's an awesome setup, isn't it? :)
great
Great! many thanks :-0)
great :)
@6:28 its hardly all fixed, are you blind? 😅
Amazing!