I love Tyler Styer's 8 ball break he pops the cueball but he gets a good spread from the rack and its always done so beautifully and gracefully. For reference check out his matches in this year's Louisiana open
@@zanethind those matches are with the 8 ball on the spot. It’s a totally different break, but I watched him crush it yeah. I figured out how to do it- it’s pretty different than a regular barbox 8 ball break. If the ultimate pool tour takes off I might do a video on it.
Pop break is nice and squat the cueball in the middle but my friend told me it takes off power off the break if you want more power. And you definitely want more power if the rack was done bad
Hey Nate, I saw your other videos and you look familiar. I think you're the guy I asked to play 9ball for fun at Cue Ball in Alhambra a few months back. I accidentally ran into your youtube while I was searching tips on pop break haha
@@SenseiNatePlaysPool haha I knew it. I'm doing well Nate, hope we can shoot again sometime in the near future. I'm trying to learn the pop break myself, thanks for this helpful video!
Honestly, IMO it depends on your hands. I have hand injuries and very little flexibility, so I can't do an elevated bridge with my pinkie on the table for stabilization. Instead, I curl it under like a fist and apply pressure to my palm. Some players have much more flexible fingers, and can keep their whole (or most) of their pinkie on the cloth and get a good tripod with their hands- it all depends on your physical preferences, limitations, and comfort. "weight distribution" might not be the right phrasing. Yes you should be pressing down into your bridge hand to keep it still, but it's really all about keeping your weight under your body/transferring weight towards the front of your body. Hope that helps.
So use less elevation, put the cueball in a different spot, or change your stroke/mechanics speed. It's not a 1 size fits all formula for a good break. But with tweaking to your own stroke/table/conditions/etc, I'm sure you'll find something that works. Good luck!
One thing has changed in Breaking & there may be a reason for the change. They are starting to draw the Cue Ball back into the end rail, to escape the traffic, The Cue Ball rebounds off the rack & moves back to the end rail & bounces back to mid table. Lots of players use a BreakRAK for practice, I do...
Yeah it’s a decent option for breaking 10 ball with a template. I’m not sure it’s great for a triangle rack though. There’s a reason most pros prefer a pop break- it’s cause you can play for the 1 in the corner. With the draw break, the cueball might not get as many kisses but the 1 ball gets smothered in the middle of the table and you don’t always have a good look at it. Still it’s a nice break and deserves some love.
That fact you went into detail about it. And revealed same discoveries I’ve made about this break in my journey of mastering it. Shows how intelectual you are. Now I notice how elevated you are. I was doing the same thing a couple of years ago. But now I have a much better result. Playing with a much more level bridge. And using both these techniques. Into one.
I have videos of me breaking to prove it if you want to discuss it. Also I’ve also learned how to do it with a playing clue with a medium tip. Level cue 22-24 mph break
@@lfernando2412 The point of elevation here is for this specific break. I don't always elevate either. It really depends on the kind of break I'm going for. If i'm hitting a much harder 22-24 mph break, elevation wont do much, because by the time the cueball hits the slate after hopping, it's about to hit the 1 ball and stays on the table, which completely nullifies the reason for the elevation. There's a reason in this video I say it's a 7/10 power break- maybe even a 5 or 6- just depends on the player and their stroke. To be frank though- I'm not sure a 24mph break is very efficient for 10ball- thats just me. You don't need to blast the rack to get a good spread unless the table/balls/rack is totally screwed up from the getgo. Since a solid 17-18mph break is fine for the spread, might as well do the elevated break with less speed for more control.
Worked on this break some more last night. I'm not sure if it's this way for everyone but snapping my wrist forwards seemed to be key in getting it to pop well. Almost the same kind of motion you would use for throwing a dart, but underhanded. Anytime I felt the butt of the cue slap against my palm I immediately knew it was a good hit 😎
I like that. A well timed wrist snap is a great way to get the most out of your break stroke! I do the same thing depending on the type of break I’m going for and the table conditions I’m playing on. Wrist snap for me depends on body rise. If I wrist snap with too much body, the cue tip swings upwards cause I’m short. If I was taller it wouldn’t be as much an issue.
@@SenseiNatePlaysPool Body lift is something I could definitely use some more practice with. I really like incorporating body lift into the break because it seems that I can let gravity do more of the work more for me on the swing, so it was far more controllable and I would still get a good hit. I had to remember to aim lower on the breaks I was doing the lift for tho because I also had the tip come up and would get too much top spin. Another odd side effect that was more problematic tho was that if I went beyond just slight lift, I noticed my bridge kind of collapsing. Of course I was fine on breaks from the rail, but on the bed of the table I really had to focus to keep my bridge hand from flattening. I'm not sure if that's because of the shift in weight or prematurely getting my hand ready to move from the table but it certainly gave me some issues.
@@procrastinator6902 my advice on body lift is that a little goes a LONG way. Just a a couple inches first, then as you get more comfortable with standing up on the shot little by little you can increase it. Still in the end it doesn’t need to be a whole lot.
My pop break doesn't work so well when the cue ball is at the line, but when I use the rail for my bridge I perform it well. Can you tell me why? Any advice would help. Thanks.
Can you explain “doesn’t work so well” a little more? If you mean you don’t get a pop, then it’s likely cause of the elevation and distance change. Hand-on-slate bridge is more elevation than you might think for most pop breaks. Of course this all comes down to a few key factors. I might do another video on it but essentially; Assuming you’re hitting the 1 full- 1. Elevation 2. Speed 3. Distance 4.* sweet it. Hard to describe, and changes based on the type of stroke and equipment. When you break with your hand on the side rail, more than one of these factors change, which may give you the break you’re looking for. I will say though, putting your bridge hand on the rail might not be advised (a full closed bridge on top of the rail- I’m not talking about a rail bridge). Not sure if you’re doing that- just pointing it out. Keep in mind, the cueball leaves the table, then hits the slate, bounces off, then hits the rack in the air. If you’re not getting a pop, then change one of those first 3 perimeters (speed, elevation, or distance). For instance, If balls aren’t dropping and coming above the side pockets, I like to put more power into the break. At this point, I don’t change much, but I do bring the cueball back a ball or 2 in distance. This way, while hitting it harder, there’s still space for the cueball to get the necessary height for the break. A 10 ball break is most effective from the middle of the table, so try to get that break down. Since you get better results from the side rail, may I suggest breaking from the middle, but with MORE elevation, and LESS power. Let me know how it works out.
Every bridge is slightly different. I suggest a closed bridge- however you do that and elevate is up to you. I found a way that works for me, but i have very little flexibility in my ring and pinkie finger. Yours will/should be different. As long as its solid and repeatable...
I love Tyler Styer's 8 ball break he pops the cueball but he gets a good spread from the rack and its always done so beautifully and gracefully. For reference check out his matches in this year's Louisiana open
@@zanethind those matches are with the 8 ball on the spot. It’s a totally different break, but I watched him crush it yeah. I figured out how to do it- it’s pretty different than a regular barbox 8 ball break. If the ultimate pool tour takes off I might do a video on it.
@@SenseiNatePlaysPool 👍
Most excellent Nate 👍🏻💪🏻👍🏻
The way you articulate is awesome. I easily understood all the key points of shooting the pop break.
GREAT VIDEO Sir! 👍🏻👍🏻
Dude this video has TONS of info. Definitely deserves more views.
Pop break is nice and squat the cueball in the middle but my friend told me it takes off power off the break if you want more power. And you definitely want more power if the rack was done bad
Good analysis,thx!👍🎱
Good stuff brother!
Hey Nate, I saw your other videos and you look familiar. I think you're the guy I asked to play 9ball for fun at Cue Ball in Alhambra a few months back. I accidentally ran into your youtube while I was searching tips on pop break haha
Hey Chris! Yeah that is me! lol. Hope you’re well man.
@@SenseiNatePlaysPool haha I knew it. I'm doing well Nate, hope we can shoot again sometime in the near future. I'm trying to learn the pop break myself, thanks for this helpful video!
Any tips on how to keep bridge hand still? Is it weight distribution?
Honestly, IMO it depends on your hands. I have hand injuries and very little flexibility, so I can't do an elevated bridge with my pinkie on the table for stabilization. Instead, I curl it under like a fist and apply pressure to my palm. Some players have much more flexible fingers, and can keep their whole (or most) of their pinkie on the cloth and get a good tripod with their hands- it all depends on your physical preferences, limitations, and comfort.
"weight distribution" might not be the right phrasing. Yes you should be pressing down into your bridge hand to keep it still, but it's really all about keeping your weight under your body/transferring weight towards the front of your body.
Hope that helps.
Brilliant video! Thanks!
When I try this the cue ball goes about 3 feet above the slate and off the table
So use less elevation, put the cueball in a different spot, or change your stroke/mechanics speed. It's not a 1 size fits all formula for a good break. But with tweaking to your own stroke/table/conditions/etc, I'm sure you'll find something that works.
Good luck!
Great breakdown (pardon my pun😅). Earned a subscription from me. 😊
Have you got a video or a photo where I can see how you do the elevated bridge? I think that by increasing the elevation my bridge becomes less stable
One thing has changed in Breaking & there may be a reason for the change. They are starting to draw the Cue Ball back into the end rail, to escape the traffic, The Cue Ball rebounds off the rack & moves back to the end rail & bounces back to mid table. Lots of players use a BreakRAK for practice, I do...
Yeah it’s a decent option for breaking 10 ball with a template. I’m not sure it’s great for a triangle rack though. There’s a reason most pros prefer a pop break- it’s cause you can play for the 1 in the corner. With the draw break, the cueball might not get as many kisses but the 1 ball gets smothered in the middle of the table and you don’t always have a good look at it. Still it’s a nice break and deserves some love.
That fact you went into detail about it. And revealed same discoveries I’ve made about this break in my journey of mastering it. Shows how intelectual you are. Now I notice how elevated you are. I was doing the same thing a couple of years ago. But now I have a much better result. Playing with a much more level bridge. And using both these techniques. Into one.
I have videos of me breaking to prove it if you want to discuss it. Also I’ve also learned how to do it with a playing clue with a medium tip. Level cue 22-24 mph break
@@lfernando2412 The point of elevation here is for this specific break. I don't always elevate either. It really depends on the kind of break I'm going for. If i'm hitting a much harder 22-24 mph break, elevation wont do much, because by the time the cueball hits the slate after hopping, it's about to hit the 1 ball and stays on the table, which completely nullifies the reason for the elevation. There's a reason in this video I say it's a 7/10 power break- maybe even a 5 or 6- just depends on the player and their stroke.
To be frank though- I'm not sure a 24mph break is very efficient for 10ball- thats just me. You don't need to blast the rack to get a good spread unless the table/balls/rack is totally screwed up from the getgo. Since a solid 17-18mph break is fine for the spread, might as well do the elevated break with less speed for more control.
Worked on this break some more last night. I'm not sure if it's this way for everyone but snapping my wrist forwards seemed to be key in getting it to pop well. Almost the same kind of motion you would use for throwing a dart, but underhanded. Anytime I felt the butt of the cue slap against my palm I immediately knew it was a good hit 😎
I like that. A well timed wrist snap is a great way to get the most out of your break stroke! I do the same thing depending on the type of break I’m going for and the table conditions I’m playing on. Wrist snap for me depends on body rise. If I wrist snap with too much body, the cue tip swings upwards cause I’m short. If I was taller it wouldn’t be as much an issue.
@@SenseiNatePlaysPool Body lift is something I could definitely use some more practice with. I really like incorporating body lift into the break because it seems that I can let gravity do more of the work more for me on the swing, so it was far more controllable and I would still get a good hit. I had to remember to aim lower on the breaks I was doing the lift for tho because I also had the tip come up and would get too much top spin. Another odd side effect that was more problematic tho was that if I went beyond just slight lift, I noticed my bridge kind of collapsing. Of course I was fine on breaks from the rail, but on the bed of the table I really had to focus to keep my bridge hand from flattening. I'm not sure if that's because of the shift in weight or prematurely getting my hand ready to move from the table but it certainly gave me some issues.
@@procrastinator6902 my advice on body lift is that a little goes a LONG way. Just a a couple inches first, then as you get more comfortable with standing up on the shot little by little you can increase it. Still in the end it doesn’t need to be a whole lot.
Any thoughts about breaking from break box?
I find the open hand bridge with more elevation can work good with this on a slower break and still get a good pop.
My pop break doesn't work so well when the cue ball is at the line, but when I use the rail for my bridge I perform it well. Can you tell me why? Any advice would help. Thanks.
Can you explain “doesn’t work so well” a little more?
If you mean you don’t get a pop, then it’s likely cause of the elevation and distance change. Hand-on-slate bridge is more elevation than you might think for most pop breaks.
Of course this all comes down to a few key factors. I might do another video on it but essentially;
Assuming you’re hitting the 1 full-
1. Elevation
2. Speed
3. Distance
4.* sweet it. Hard to describe, and changes based on the type of stroke and equipment.
When you break with your hand on the side rail, more than one of these factors change, which may give you the break you’re looking for. I will say though, putting your bridge hand on the rail might not be advised (a full closed bridge on top of the rail- I’m not talking about a rail bridge). Not sure if you’re doing that- just pointing it out.
Keep in mind, the cueball leaves the table, then hits the slate, bounces off, then hits the rack in the air. If you’re not getting a pop, then change one of those first 3 perimeters (speed, elevation, or distance).
For instance, If balls aren’t dropping and coming above the side pockets, I like to put more power into the break. At this point, I don’t change much, but I do bring the cueball back a ball or 2 in distance. This way, while hitting it harder, there’s still space for the cueball to get the necessary height for the break.
A 10 ball break is most effective from the middle of the table, so try to get that break down. Since you get better results from the side rail, may I suggest breaking from the middle, but with MORE elevation, and LESS power.
Let me know how it works out.
Great break vid Nate! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. Was wondering how this break is done. Just subbed.
Looking forward to more videos from you!
nice vid, thanks for sharing:)
Okay Van Boening.
Can you elaborate on the bridge type for this break? I noticed various styles.
Every bridge is slightly different. I suggest a closed bridge- however you do that and elevate is up to you. I found a way that works for me, but i have very little flexibility in my ring and pinkie finger. Yours will/should be different. As long as its solid and repeatable...