Well, that answers what was wrong when I was trying to use it with the needlegun. Glad it was an easy fix. By the way, thanks to your kind endorsement, my channel went over 1000 subscribers! Never thought I'd see the day.
Nice fix! Yeah it might be "designed poorly" but hey it's worked for 17 years and is inexpensive. Not going to lie though, watching you work on something disposable and poorly made is sad. After seeing your amazing work on long lasting, well built machines I wanted you to be rebuilding a 1940's 2 stage compressor with pistons the size of a 2 liter coke bottle. However this is a lot more in my range and much appreciated because I'll probably need to work on something like this soon.
I would like to see a cylinder/body and piston(maybe some large marine engine piston?) built from scratch.That would be awesome video -reay how to build compressor ,not take a motor from refrigerator and gas bottle crap .
I agree 100%. It's just disappointing seeing such a talented restorer of machinery working on something that's not worthy of his talents. But it is a useful cost appropriate machine.
Silas Marner, you can buy a belt driven compressor with the same size tank that will produce over twice the amount of air flow for under $100 on the used market. There is absolutely no reason to rebuild this kind of junk.
There's nothing wrong with this air compressor for home use. Unfortunately, air-cooled compressors are designed for a 50% duty cycle; that is, for example, running loaded for (say) five minutes, and off or unloaded for five minutes. It's critical that this type of compressor has the opportunity to cool, or you'll see accelerated wear. Needle scalers, grinders, abrasive metal-working tools, require a lot more air than this little compressor is made to deliver. Keith's shop needs a minimum of a 5 HP, lubricated, two-stage compressor with a minimum 80-gallon tank to work efficiently.
I'm amazed it lasted that long, at least they still sell these disposable parts. Built my own shop compressor with a 2 piston air compressor salvaged from an old truck. Ran in the truck for nearly 30 years and now at least 12 years in my homeshop. It's not that difficult to do or expensive as one might think. And it will last another couple of decades most likely.
Not that you needed them (obviously) but I wonder why they didn't include the valve plate, too? But, that was a neat rebuild and even an old bricklayer could do it...well, I think I can (the little steam locomotive), Greg.
Was the torque value really 35-40 lb/ft for the connecting rod screw? Good work, Keith. The average Joe would trash that thing and buy a new one. You ain't no average Joe!
Old cast iron is nice. 300 lb compressors with unloaders, roller bearing, multiple stages, lube pumps, low oil pressure switches, and $50 (each) check valves are fun. But, dang, someone got this down to the bare minimum and it works! My hat is off to them.
Hello Keith, I had that exact compressor. Took a crap on me three years ago. I had it 14 years of fairly light use. Porter Cable doesn't support their equipment with parts come to find out. Well at least with needed parts at less than the total cost of the machine when it was new. My problem was the inertia starter on the motor. P/C quit ordering them (the motors) from the manufacturer but had that starter for more than the entire compressor had cost me new! I back tracked the GE motor and found they had quit making them and did not make parts available. So with a perfectly good compressor, tank, regulator and motor (less the starter) what should have been a two dollar part and lack of Porter Cables product support I had to garbage the works. I went and bought a far far better quality twin cylinder two stage compressor and sixty gallon tank from Harbor Freight (Porter Cable is also a Chinese company as are almost all of the major name brands) and it is so much quieter and supplies much more air that I have no regrets. The only down side is that it is not as portable as that small Porter Cable. Keep an eye out for a replacement motor if you intend to keep that unit. The motor and its parts are the weak link. Merry Xmas and Take care. Doug
Great work Keith Compressors that are getting fairly old scare me a little bit mainly due to the problem of rust In the tank ,Draining the moisture is a must a concerned guy posted a video on his grandfather Who was nearly killed by a exploding air compressor tank in his workshop worth sharing On You tube ( David Evans air compressor explosion )
torque wrench is only accurate in 20-95 percent of its range! so using a too big torque wrench is actually a Bad Idea! if you have a 0-175 ft-lb wrench, it should only be applied from 35-165!
Great Friday morning with coffee and Keith! i think you have stumbled on a new topic to do from time to time, Keith. We all have stuff that breaks and knowing that it can be fixed is great stuff! More please! Now for the nagging :) The safe and the dial pouring? Winter is here, will you be firing up the furnace? Where's the cat? Still around and well, I hope! How about a few shots or a quick video of what the site of the old tree that was blown down is looking like nowadays? Thanks and Merry Christmas, Rich
I'm glad you made this video. I have a nearly identical compressor (P-C) - smaller tank - and it's got to be about the same vintage. Handy and easy fix when it's piston/cylinder go belly up. Thank you, Keith.
OMG, you were so right when you said the pump kits are pretty much, one size fits all. I went on Amazon just for giggles and sure enough, the pump kits fit so many other compressors. I really didn't matter when it came to size. Thanks for sharing that info with us. >>>ken
Brilliant Keith! AC now good for another 17 years. One cautionary note for those who would attempt this: be VERY careful of torque. When I was a kid in the 60s I worked in oil fields torching big pipe flanges with 1" grade 8 SAE bolts. Sears hired me away for more money etc to work on law mowers. After a week of stripping out every thread I touched they fired me...high torque dude in a low torque world. Fortunately, my old boss thought it was funny and gave me my old job back. BEWARE THE TORQUE
hello i have a craftman air compressor v-twin model #919-152811 both my pistons broke and i have order theses piston before in the past..i bought my compressor in 1992 i had it for along time ..anyway they said i cant get that piston kit enymore they discontinued it ..so they said kk-4835 is a replacement for i would like to no will that piston kit work in my compressor...i hate to spend the money and it dont work im trying not to go out and buy a new one ..i would love your feedback...thank you.
Well if it ever goes bad again...snag an A/C compressor...put regular 10W/30 oil in it (not hygroscopic like the freon oil)...and make a silent compressor. Might not fill super fast...but it will do it in almost absolute silence. P.S. a shot or two of machine oil on the intake every few runs might help reduce the heat in that compressor Wait...does that compressor pull air up thru the piston, I didn't see an intake port on the side of the head that you bolted down...
So, would the same issue cause a compressor to stop charging the tank at 40 PSI, and keep running? Doubt I can get parts for this little Harbor Freight unit, but I might find compatible bits..
I didn't care for the stock filter on mine and found DeWalt compressors use a pipe thread filter of better design so I installed one from a scrap DeWalt. I now collect all the free discards I can find of this style pump (they come with a variety of tank sizes) since they're so easy to work with. All threaded fasteners get anti-seized to avoid corrosion.
If any of you guys have a similar compressor, then you should have bought the kit back when he did. The price has gone up anywhere from double to quadruple! My suggestion is to service your compressor regularly, that way you won't have to replace pistons and cylinders, just rings and gaskets.
The heat sink is supposed to dissipate heat. Is the fan blowing enough air through the housing? You may be drawing more air than the compressor is designed to supply with continuous use.
Sigh. Evidently you didn't watch Keith's video closely. As Keith is wrapping up he talked about what was done, touched the cooling fins, and jerks his hand away like the surface was hot. See 16:22 again.
Thanks for the rebuild video. I never had one of those when I was younger.. I made a home-made compressor from an old Briggs and Stratton motor. The increased industrialization of China has really re-shaped the world of low cost equipment like this stuff and the rationale of junk vs re-build. - Eddy
Man that’s some cheap crap right there haven’t ever been into one but to see one with a rod pin so it could pivot makes me wonder just how efficient that thing can be that’s an awful lot of movement rocking for something that’s supposed to seal up tight
I am actually impressed that that toy compressor kept up for 18 years :O My first thought was where is the air cleaner? but my next thought was hell there is a fan blowing dust right into the cylinder from under :D
The piston ring is very likely teflon impregnated nylon and the cylinderwall is chromed. This combination wears down very slow. But will fail eventually. It's a nice combination for low temperature and low pressure applications. But nothing you want rely on for 30 years. And don't lubricate it. If it's not a soap based lubrication it will destroy the piston ring.
It should have a filter, but this is an oil-less compressor, hence the piston and cylinder being considered a consumable item. I've always strongly preferred oil filled compressors mostly because I find the noise the oil less ones make to be too much.
My 1970's Craftsman air compressor looks like a battle ship compared to that which is like a aluminum canoe. It still works I just worry that the tank will spring a leak at any time.
No, ZI've got a smaller, slightly newer variant of a Porter Cable/Craftsman compressor that I the pair of for $25. 15 gal Craftsman that ran but leaked where the tank tube connects to the head and also a Porter Cable pancake compressor that didn't run. As I pulled them apart to investigate the problems, I found the pump to be exactly the same, to the point I replaced the leaking seal on the Craftsman with the part from the Porter Cable. Still need to figure out why it won't build more than 100PSI and just keeps running continuously. I suspect a pump seal problem. I've also got a third compressor head for aparts so hopefully I won't even need to buy parts
I have an "oilless" compressor. Bought it twenty years ago. Every day I've squirted a shot of oil into the intake. Yes, I know, they don't need oil.... But.... it's still running. Call me crazy or misguided.... But it has worked for me. Oilless or Oil less. Do what works for you. LOL
I love the way you guys can get spares for almost anything over in the States. Over here its "No, they don't make that model any more. Spares? No, we dont stock them. Would you like to buy a complete new unit?" I once had a chainsaw attachment for my strimmer which the oil pump packed up on. A 2" long spindle gear, cannot get anyone to supply me with the part. In the end I ordered a couple from, yes, good Ol' USA, ($3.98) and had them fedexed ($7.00) to me in England.
17 years old, you ALMOST got your money's worth out of it. We'll call it a bargain if it holds up another 10 or 15 years. People call us cheap but I prefer FRUGAL. I also have daughters still in school so I understand the importance of controlling costs around the place. Thanks for posting. HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
Sir, cleaning both the O-Ring slots with a rag make it guaranteed leak proof and thereby enhancing the life of the rubber seals. No to mention the reed valve dismantling and cleaning, but will lead to extensive Rebuild. Without the Lubrication on the piston/cylinder head, quite amazing ! Hope a new Air Filter will complete it to factory made. Even, (replacing) the bearing(s) of the Electric Motor will make it a smoother experience. Sir, thank you for Video. It was cool.
I too was surprised Keith didn't change the reed valves and wash down the parts. The reed valves are a very common failure item. I completely agree with you that a quick spray-down with Blue Shower or CRC Brakleen followed by a quick scrub with a tooth brush, then another solvent flush before installing the O-rings and reassembly.
At 16:20 you failed to mention that the cylinder head gets pretty hot! Looks like you pulled your hand away pretty quickly. Great videos, thank you for sharing all your priceless information with us.
I have Craftsman 60 gal oil-less twin cylinder compressor 2001 vintage. In my case the cheap die cast rod broke on one of the piston-rod assemblies. So I replaced it. Lasted about two days before the PRA broke on the other cylinder. Ended up breaking three PRA’s before I gave up. End up replacing the oil-less
You could really benefit from an in/lb torque wrench. 120in/lb is 10ft/lbs. That little clamp screw is very likely 35-40 in/lbs, not ft/lbs. Think of the size of a car lug nut, and those are around 80ft/lbs for small cars. 35 was likely too much for that little screw, and it is lucky it didn't strip right out. Also keep in mind that torque wrenches are generally not accurate at their minimum settings. However, for projects like this, it is more important to have equal torque across all bolts than to have the exact right value. Love your channel Keith, just trying to be helpful.
I really hate the "highspeed" oil-less compressors. It's nice that they actually have a rebuild kit though! I had a Craftsman for about 15 years that made tons of noise and danced around. When it finally died, it was not rebuildable. I have 2 standard compressors built from old parts on new tanks. No problems and I can hear myself think.
I picked up a Craftsman compressor cheap with a dual-piston version of that style pump. Had a broken connecting rod as the bearing froze after a year. I'd have replaced the bearing as I hear that is a common failure. Did not think it was rebuildable. Surprised to see kits are available. Did not matter as I got the compressor cheap to use the 60-gal tank and swap the 30-year old belt-driven pump and motor off my 20 gal compressor. Picked up a China made pump for the old tank cheap. It worked but it was so un-balanced it walked across the room. ;)
I never liked those direct drive oil-less compressors because of the noise. I guess 17 years isn't bad but I have a 1979 Craftsman 1hp (I believe DeVilbiss) that had given me no problems since I bought it new in 79. I think the tank will rust from the inside before the mechanicals fail.
For what it's worth, I HIGHLY recommend the Makita MAC700 air compressor. I got one a few weeks back and it is ~20db quieter than my old P-C. If you need more air than it can deliver then it might be time for a big two stage or a rotary scroll but for something so small, it's absolutely excellent.
That offset fan mounting... Wow! Someone was really thinking. A good topic! I rebuilt a IR T-30 compresor about 25 years ago, and it's still going strong. What a beast of a pump!
I have the same compressor with a Sear Craftsman label on it... The compressor works fine but the plastic wheels folded... I got some 8 inch solids from Harbor Freight complete with bearings(The old wheels did not have bearings nor were the rims steel.) I had to make 2 new axles. That aspect of mine is better than factory. When you can use Harbor Freight wheels and improve the machine it does not say much for the product.
Not what I was expecting to see inside. An O-ring, interesting. After 17 years and $35.00 you did good. Tanks will last many years as long as the water is drained, tanks made years ago are made of much better steel than most people would think. My big compressor is about the same age and has sandblasted it's entire life, not worried about the tank at all, just drain the water. Thanks Keith.
Well, you will be glad to know that my Rigid air compressor uses pretty much the same parts. The valve plate uses gaskets however. Cylinder, piston, rod and fan are the same.
Nice work but I would have thoroughly vacuumed the dust out of the pump area because working on it loosened contamination. This was evident by the small cloud displaced when it was first turned on at about 15:50 and some could have been sucked in the through the intake. Removing dirt from the cooling fins also allows them to do their job better. Making a repair without a thorough cleaning is akin to taking a shower without putting on clean underwear. :-) Hope your labored breathing is not a serious health issue.
So is break-in procedure (run X amount of time with tank drain open so no pressure can build) on an oilless compressor just placebo? Can't really find any good info about it.
We have a portable purchased from the local Harm & Fome, it is the noisiest thing in the shop. Even the well-pump-sounding motor on the lathe can't compete with that thing. If you forget to shut it down at the end of the day, it will remind you ... at 3 a.m.
Oil free compressors may last long with general use but that's thing going for them. If you disassemble the oil free compressors today there aren't any reed valve at all in the head, everything is dependent on the main check valve.
Some engines use oil in the fuel to lubricate piston and cylinder.DO air compressors need piston and cylinder lubrication and how is it done? I know that some of them use oil to lubricate ball bearings and crank shafts.its just i never saw one open. Thank you for answer.
I thought you were going to be cutting some steel for this, and about fell out of my chair when you just lifted the old cylinder out. For some reason, I never get the easy projects! Nice work - thanks for showing how much easier it is than an engine rebuild!
I had the same problem last year with my one, and I retired it. Even though I would drain it after use and run it to dry out the tank. I have seen a few that have gone bang. It is not worth the risk. They have a lifespan and that's it. Thanks, Keith and greetings from Africa.
Interesting, most of the direct drive ones I've seen are brushed universal motors, cheap, loud, awful but cheap. Interesting to see one with parts kits and an induction motor.
Well not exactly a steam locomotive cylinder but Im glad you did this video so people know you can rebuild them instead of tossing them in the scrap bin in this throw away mentality we seem to be in now days.
I had a compressor designed like this one and the motor gave up before the piston, I decided it was not worth the expense of replacing the whole compressor assembly so I replaced it. Instead of junking the whole thing with a gauge, ball valve and a hose I made it into a roll around air tank that worked well and I am still using it today years later.
It is probably worth replacing the reed valves at the same time,mine were broken at last tear down.replace those and the compressor will probably outlast the tank it’s mounted on
I used to have the Harbor Freight copy if that compressor and mine blew the head gasket causing the same thing. I was able to use auto part store bulk gasket material to make a new one and its still working years later
You forgot to put the spiders back inside the shroud. ;)
@ 16:23 Keith remembers what that cover on the top was for....
OK, that made me laugh once I noticed it. Pretty subtle.
Your compressor bears a striking resemblance to my Craftsman of the same vintage. I had no idea that the rebuild was so easy. Thanks.
Must be a good design if a simple, and economical to manufacture, setup like that can last 17 years. Chris
Well, that answers what was wrong when I was trying to use it with the needlegun. Glad it was an easy fix. By the way, thanks to your kind endorsement, my channel went over 1000 subscribers! Never thought I'd see the day.
sandrammer I just brought you to 1,170. Looks like some good content.
Yes I like your work and I subscribed but please not so long winded, maybe edit down to 15 min.
I expected way more compressor than that In your shop Keith!
Did you watch the video?
Paul Copeland Yeah, I just was stating that I'm surprised that's what he had, I realize he said he was upgrading sometime in the future.
I thought he'd have a steam powered compressor.
Hey Kieth Rucker! Truly a compressive video... or is that impressive?
Nice fix! Yeah it might be "designed poorly" but hey it's worked for 17 years and is inexpensive. Not going to lie though, watching you work on something disposable and poorly made is sad. After seeing your amazing work on long lasting, well built machines I wanted you to be rebuilding a 1940's 2 stage compressor with pistons the size of a 2 liter coke bottle. However this is a lot more in my range and much appreciated because I'll probably need to work on something like this soon.
I would like to see a cylinder/body and piston(maybe some large marine engine piston?) built from scratch.That would be awesome video -reay how to build compressor ,not take a motor from refrigerator and gas bottle crap .
on the other hand a little work went a long way... and kept operating costs low....
I agree 100%. It's just disappointing seeing such a talented restorer of machinery working on something that's not worthy of his talents. But it is a useful cost appropriate machine.
It redeems itself by being made to be repaired.
Silas Marner, you can buy a belt driven compressor with the same size tank that will produce over twice the amount of air flow for under $100 on the used market. There is absolutely no reason to rebuild this kind of junk.
There's nothing wrong with this air compressor for home use. Unfortunately, air-cooled compressors are designed for a 50% duty cycle; that is, for example, running loaded for (say) five minutes, and off or unloaded for five minutes. It's critical that this type of compressor has the opportunity to cool, or you'll see accelerated wear. Needle scalers, grinders, abrasive metal-working tools, require a lot more air than this little compressor is made to deliver. Keith's shop needs a minimum of a 5 HP, lubricated, two-stage compressor with a minimum 80-gallon tank to work efficiently.
I'm amazed it lasted that long, at least they still sell these disposable parts. Built my own shop compressor with a 2 piston air compressor salvaged from an old truck. Ran in the truck for nearly 30 years and now at least 12 years in my homeshop. It's not that difficult to do or expensive as one might think. And it will last another couple of decades most likely.
Not that you needed them (obviously) but I wonder why they didn't include the valve plate, too? But, that was a neat rebuild and even an old bricklayer could do it...well, I think I can (the little steam locomotive), Greg.
carefully torque wrench the bolds of the head....impact wrench afterwards for the clips... argh....
Was the torque value really 35-40 lb/ft for the connecting rod screw? Good work, Keith. The average Joe would trash that thing and buy a new one. You ain't no average Joe!
Old cast iron is nice. 300 lb compressors with unloaders, roller bearing, multiple stages, lube pumps, low oil pressure switches, and $50 (each) check valves are fun. But, dang, someone got this down to the bare minimum and it works! My hat is off to them.
Hello Keith, I had that exact compressor. Took a crap on me three years ago. I had it 14 years of fairly light use. Porter Cable doesn't support their equipment with parts come to find out. Well at least with needed parts at less than the total cost of the machine when it was new. My problem was the inertia starter on the motor. P/C quit ordering them (the motors) from the manufacturer but had that starter for more than the entire compressor had cost me new! I back tracked the GE motor and found they had quit making them and did not make parts available. So with a perfectly good compressor, tank, regulator and motor (less the starter) what should have been a two dollar part and lack of Porter Cables product support I had to garbage the works. I went and bought a far far better quality twin cylinder two stage compressor and sixty gallon tank from Harbor Freight (Porter Cable is also a Chinese company as are almost all of the major name brands) and it is so much quieter and supplies much more air that I have no regrets. The only down side is that it is not as portable as that small Porter Cable. Keep an eye out for a replacement motor if you intend to keep that unit. The motor and its parts are the weak link. Merry Xmas and Take care. Doug
Great work Keith
Compressors that are getting fairly old scare me a little bit mainly due to the problem of rust
In the tank ,Draining the moisture is a must a concerned guy posted a video on his grandfather
Who was nearly killed by a exploding air compressor tank in his workshop worth sharing
On You tube ( David Evans air compressor explosion )
Kerry Gleeson
yep
especially where he is
very hot and humid
torque wrench is only accurate in 20-95 percent of its range! so using a too big torque wrench is actually a Bad Idea! if you have a 0-175 ft-lb wrench, it should only be applied from 35-165!
Eric Severseike nope just a bicycle mechanic. we torque stuff sometimes but not as precise as you guys probably
Great Friday morning with coffee and Keith! i think you have stumbled on a new topic to do from time to time, Keith. We all have stuff that breaks and knowing that it can be fixed is great stuff! More please! Now for the nagging :) The safe and the dial pouring? Winter is here, will you be firing up the furnace? Where's the cat? Still around and well, I hope! How about a few shots or a quick video of what the site of the old tree that was blown down is looking like nowadays?
Thanks and Merry Christmas,
Rich
I'm glad you made this video. I have a nearly identical compressor (P-C) - smaller tank - and it's got to be about the same vintage. Handy and easy fix when it's piston/cylinder go belly up. Thank you, Keith.
It would have been even easier if you'd just mentioned that your compressor had failed. A new one would have showed up within days.
OMG, you were so right when you said the pump kits are pretty much, one size fits all. I went on Amazon just for giggles and sure enough, the pump kits fit so many other compressors. I really didn't matter when it came to size. Thanks for sharing that info with us. >>>ken
Brilliant Keith! AC now good for another 17 years. One cautionary note for those who would attempt this: be VERY careful of torque. When I was a kid in the 60s I worked in oil fields torching big pipe flanges with 1" grade 8 SAE bolts. Sears hired me away for more money etc to work on law mowers. After a week of stripping out every thread I touched they fired me...high torque dude in a low torque world. Fortunately, my old boss thought it was funny and gave me my old job back. BEWARE THE TORQUE
hello i have a craftman air compressor v-twin model #919-152811 both my pistons broke and i have order theses piston before in the past..i bought my compressor in 1992 i had it for along time ..anyway they said i cant get that piston kit enymore they discontinued it ..so they said kk-4835 is a replacement for i would like to no will that piston kit work in my compressor...i hate to spend the money and it dont work im trying not to go out and buy a new one ..i would love your feedback...thank you.
Well if it ever goes bad again...snag an A/C compressor...put regular 10W/30 oil in it (not hygroscopic like the freon oil)...and make a silent compressor.
Might not fill super fast...but it will do it in almost absolute silence.
P.S. a shot or two of machine oil on the intake every few runs might help reduce the heat in that compressor
Wait...does that compressor pull air up thru the piston, I didn't see an intake port on the side of the head that you bolted down...
So, would the same issue cause a compressor to stop charging the tank at 40 PSI, and keep running? Doubt I can get parts for this little Harbor Freight unit, but I might find compatible bits..
I didn't care for the stock filter on mine and found DeWalt compressors use a pipe thread filter of better design so I installed one from a scrap DeWalt. I now collect all the free discards I can find of this style pump (they come with a variety of tank sizes) since they're so easy to work with. All threaded fasteners get anti-seized to avoid corrosion.
If any of you guys have a similar compressor, then you should have bought the kit back when he did. The price has gone up anywhere from double to quadruple!
My suggestion is to service your compressor regularly, that way you won't have to replace pistons and cylinders, just rings and gaskets.
We replaced the piston, we replaced the cylinder... and the cooling fins are quite hot.
The heat sink is supposed to dissipate heat. Is the fan blowing enough air through the housing? You may be drawing more air than the compressor is designed to supply with continuous use.
Sigh. Evidently you didn't watch Keith's video closely. As Keith is wrapping up he talked about what was done, touched the cooling fins, and jerks his hand away like the surface was hot. See 16:22 again.
i have a devilbiss with a 60 gallon tank, 6hp and the compressor section looks identical to your porter cable unit.
Am I seeing things or did that say 6 hp on the cover?
Thanks for the rebuild video.
I never had one of those when I was younger.. I made a home-made compressor from an old Briggs and Stratton motor. The increased industrialization of China has really re-shaped the world of low cost equipment like this stuff and the rationale of junk vs re-build.
- Eddy
Man that’s some cheap crap right there haven’t ever been into one but to see one with a rod pin so it could pivot makes me wonder just how efficient that thing can be that’s an awful lot of movement rocking for something that’s supposed to seal up tight
I am actually impressed that that toy compressor kept up for 18 years :O My first thought was where is the air cleaner? but my next thought was hell there is a fan blowing dust right into the cylinder from under :D
no air filter and no lubrication at all? amazing how it lasts more than 2 minutes
The piston ring is very likely teflon impregnated nylon and the cylinderwall is chromed. This combination wears down very slow. But will fail eventually. It's a nice combination for low temperature and low pressure applications. But nothing you want rely on for 30 years.
And don't lubricate it. If it's not a soap based lubrication it will destroy the piston ring.
an air filter would at least be a good idea though?
He said he's gonna order a new air filter
ahh thanks missed that
It should have a filter, but this is an oil-less compressor, hence the piston and cylinder being considered a consumable item. I've always strongly preferred oil filled compressors mostly because I find the noise the oil less ones make to be too much.
My compressor is homemade and would run rings around this thing!
My 1970's Craftsman air compressor looks like a battle ship compared to that which is like a aluminum canoe. It still works I just worry that the tank will spring a leak at any time.
After 17 years of operation are you worried about tank rusting?
Why not replace the bearing? was it still good?
Thanks for showing that. Worked out great.
Amazing it lasted this long. Good deal
Always gratifying to see an old piece of equipment be restored to use (instead of being discarded and replaced).
except it's not an old piece of equipment.....
True, it's not that old, but nowadays, no one seems to repair anything anymore. We discard computers, TVs, ...
Great Video Keith, repairing mine this week.
Can a guy get parts for a tool shop brand bought at menards
Wow the kit is now 100 bucks.... Damn
The actor has an accent, but it's not that bad.
Its good to lubricate the orings
Surprise - no new flapper valve?
03:04 I guess the cautionary here is to make sure the tank is empty before taking the pipe off, otherwise you’d get a little surprise 😋
Since the fault was that it wasn't holding pressure, I think he could be fairly certain that the tank was empty. ;)
Where is you lust for excitement? It must be dull and boring around your place.
Na there's a check valve on the tank
otherwise all the air would leak out once the compressor stops
+1 for the check valve. You'd never get the pump started against the tank pressure.
No, ZI've got a smaller, slightly newer variant of a Porter Cable/Craftsman compressor that I the pair of for $25. 15 gal Craftsman that ran but leaked where the tank tube connects to the head and also a Porter Cable pancake compressor that didn't run. As I pulled them apart to investigate the problems, I found the pump to be exactly the same, to the point I replaced the leaking seal on the Craftsman with the part from the Porter Cable. Still need to figure out why it won't build more than 100PSI and just keeps running continuously. I suspect a pump seal problem. I've also got a third compressor head for aparts so hopefully I won't even need to buy parts
God, they are tin plate and hope...?
Enjoyed Keith!
ATB, Robin
Thanks for showing that. Worked out great.
Congratulations, excellent video.
Very good explaining.
Thanks for sharing the video.
I have an "oilless" compressor. Bought it twenty years ago. Every day I've squirted a shot of oil into the intake. Yes, I know, they don't need oil.... But.... it's still running. Call me crazy or misguided.... But it has worked for me. Oilless or Oil less. Do what works for you. LOL
I love the way you guys can get spares for almost anything over in the States. Over here its "No, they don't make that model any more. Spares? No, we dont stock them. Would you like to buy a complete new unit?"
I once had a chainsaw attachment for my strimmer which the oil pump packed up on. A 2" long spindle gear, cannot get anyone to supply me with the part. In the end I ordered a couple from, yes, good Ol' USA, ($3.98) and had them fedexed ($7.00) to me in England.
17 years old, you ALMOST got your money's worth out of it. We'll call it a bargain if it holds up another 10 or 15 years. People call us cheap but I prefer FRUGAL. I also have daughters still in school so I understand the importance of controlling costs around the place. Thanks for posting. HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
Sir, cleaning both the O-Ring slots with a rag make it guaranteed leak proof and thereby enhancing the life of the rubber seals. No to mention the reed valve dismantling and cleaning, but will lead to extensive Rebuild. Without the Lubrication on the piston/cylinder head, quite amazing ! Hope a new Air Filter will complete it to factory made. Even, (replacing) the bearing(s) of the Electric Motor will make it a smoother experience. Sir, thank you for Video. It was cool.
Dont touch what aint broken -untill it is !Golden rule of mechanics.Beside dust is a sealant too you know :)
I too was surprised Keith didn't change the reed valves and wash down the parts.
The reed valves are a very common failure item.
I completely agree with you that a quick spray-down with Blue Shower or CRC Brakleen followed by a quick scrub with a tooth brush, then another solvent flush before installing the O-rings and reassembly.
At 16:20 you failed to mention that the cylinder head gets pretty hot! Looks like you pulled your hand away pretty quickly.
Great videos, thank you for sharing all your priceless information with us.
I have Craftsman 60 gal oil-less twin cylinder compressor 2001 vintage. In my case the cheap die cast rod broke on one of the piston-rod assemblies. So I replaced it. Lasted about two days before the PRA broke on the other cylinder. Ended up breaking three PRA’s before I gave up. End up replacing the oil-less
Kieth: I see you are wearing shorts and I'm wearing LONG JOHNS up here in Ohio. Thank you for that great info.
You could really benefit from an in/lb torque wrench. 120in/lb is 10ft/lbs. That little clamp screw is very likely 35-40 in/lbs, not ft/lbs. Think of the size of a car lug nut, and those are around 80ft/lbs for small cars. 35 was likely too much for that little screw, and it is lucky it didn't strip right out.
Also keep in mind that torque wrenches are generally not accurate at their minimum settings. However, for projects like this, it is more important to have equal torque across all bolts than to have the exact right value.
Love your channel Keith, just trying to be helpful.
6 HP! Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha. Oh, wait. I didn't see the microscopic decimal point before the 6. Never mind.
I really hate the "highspeed" oil-less compressors. It's nice that they actually have a rebuild kit though! I had a Craftsman for about 15 years that made tons of noise and danced around. When it finally died, it was not rebuildable. I have 2 standard compressors built from old parts on new tanks. No problems and I can hear myself think.
I picked up a Craftsman compressor cheap with a dual-piston version of that style pump. Had a broken connecting rod as the bearing froze after a year. I'd have replaced the bearing as I hear that is a common failure.
Did not think it was rebuildable. Surprised to see kits are available. Did not matter as I got the compressor cheap to use the 60-gal tank and swap the 30-year old belt-driven pump and motor off my 20 gal compressor.
Picked up a China made pump for the old tank cheap. It worked but it was so un-balanced it walked across the room. ;)
What a stupid design...
I never liked those direct drive oil-less compressors because of the noise. I guess 17 years isn't bad but I have a 1979 Craftsman 1hp (I believe DeVilbiss) that had given me no problems since I bought it new in 79. I think the tank will rust from the inside before the mechanicals fail.
For what it's worth, I HIGHLY recommend the Makita MAC700 air compressor. I got one a few weeks back and it is ~20db quieter than my old P-C. If you need more air than it can deliver then it might be time for a big two stage or a rotary scroll but for something so small, it's absolutely excellent.
Had the same issue (mine was 15 years old) - like getting a new compressor for under $40. Nice one Keith.
- Dan-
That offset fan mounting... Wow! Someone was really thinking. A good topic! I rebuilt a IR T-30 compresor about 25 years ago, and it's still going strong. What a beast of a pump!
I need this exact part
Hi. Am interested in starting a compressor repair shop. I would like to buy used compressor and refurbishing them.
I have the same compressor with a Sear Craftsman label on it... The compressor works fine but the plastic wheels folded... I got some 8 inch solids from Harbor Freight complete with bearings(The old wheels did not have bearings nor were the rims steel.) I had to make 2 new axles. That aspect of mine is better than factory. When you can use Harbor Freight wheels and improve the machine it does not say much for the product.
Not what I was expecting to see inside. An O-ring, interesting. After 17 years and $35.00 you did good. Tanks will last many years as long as the water is drained, tanks made years ago are made of much better steel than most people would think. My big compressor is about the same age and has sandblasted it's entire life, not worried about the tank at all, just drain the water. Thanks Keith.
Looks exactly like my Craftsman with a grey shroud instead of black, That air filter might have been the reason that cylinder got so badly scored.
Well, you will be glad to know that my Rigid air compressor uses pretty much the same parts. The valve plate uses gaskets however. Cylinder, piston, rod and fan are the same.
If you're happy with that Porter-Cable, you are going to love the LeRoi-Dresser type 400.
Wow, that's pretty much a super-sized tyre inflator! Darn handy that you can get rebuild kits though, and it barely takes 10 minutes to freshen it up.
Nice work but I would have thoroughly vacuumed the dust out of the pump area because working on it loosened contamination. This was evident by the small cloud displaced when it was first turned on at about 15:50 and some could have been sucked in the through the intake. Removing dirt from the cooling fins also allows them to do their job better. Making a repair without a thorough cleaning is akin to taking a shower without putting on clean underwear. :-)
Hope your labored breathing is not a serious health issue.
Definitely a consumer level compressor that isn't designed for heavy use.
So is break-in procedure (run X amount of time with tank drain open so no pressure can build) on an oilless compressor just placebo? Can't really find any good info about it.
We have a portable purchased from the local Harm & Fome, it is the noisiest thing in the shop. Even the well-pump-sounding motor on the lathe can't compete with that thing. If you forget to shut it down at the end of the day, it will remind you ... at 3 a.m.
Oil free compressors may last long with general use but that's thing going for them. If you disassemble the oil free compressors today there aren't any reed valve at all in the head, everything is dependent on the main check valve.
Could you advice.
Some engines use oil in the fuel to lubricate piston and cylinder.DO air compressors need piston and cylinder lubrication and how is it done? I know that some of them use oil to lubricate ball bearings and crank shafts.its just i never saw one open.
Thank you for answer.
Porter cable should have comp'd you a kit! Guess they owe one! Thanks Keith
I thought you were going to be cutting some steel for this, and about fell out of my chair when you just lifted the old cylinder out. For some reason, I never get the easy projects! Nice work - thanks for showing how much easier it is than an engine rebuild!
I gave mine a shot of Singer Oil into the intake reed makes a world of difference on sound and it`s a 96 still going .
I had the same problem last year with my one, and I retired it. Even though I would drain it after use and run it to dry out the tank. I have seen a few that have gone bang. It is not worth the risk. They have a lifespan and that's it. Thanks, Keith and greetings from Africa.
Interesting, most of the direct drive ones I've seen are brushed universal motors, cheap, loud, awful but cheap. Interesting to see one with parts kits and an induction motor.
You now ther is oil
Well not exactly a steam locomotive cylinder but Im glad you did this video so people know you can rebuild them instead of tossing them in the scrap bin in this throw away mentality we seem to be in now days.
I'm surprised the kit didn't include the flapper valve diaphragm
I had a compressor designed like this one and the motor gave up before the piston, I decided it was not worth the expense of replacing the whole compressor assembly so I replaced it. Instead of junking the whole thing with a gauge, ball valve and a hose I made it into a roll around air tank that worked well and I am still using it today years later.
Thanks Keith, Just last weekend I noticed my compressor was starting to have issues. Glad it is going to be a super simple repair.
It is probably worth replacing the reed valves at the same time,mine were broken at last tear down.replace those and the compressor will probably outlast the tank it’s mounted on
Thanks Keith. I have a Porter Cable pan cake compressor that is acting the same way as yours. Now I know what to do.
Extra points for comedy overkill torque wrench!
thank you. didn't know you could get parts. easy fix thank you thank you
I used to have the Harbor Freight copy if that compressor and mine blew the head gasket causing the same thing. I was able to use auto part store bulk gasket material to make a new one and its still working years later
Wish I could rebuild my old Quincy pump, but the crank is too scored and it is the least rebuildable model they sold.
That was a great practical video, plug and play and even though it wasn't cast in iron it still lasted a long time, anyway good job and thank you.