Reamer Basics
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- Опубліковано 27 бер 2020
- Here is my reamer basics video to go along with my basic machining class at Parkland College. Check out the other videos in the series:
Drill Bit Basics: • Drill Bit Basics
Countersinks and Counterbores: • Countersinks and Count...
Endmill Basics: • Endmill Basics
Stock allowance chart:
1. 1/32 to 1/8 (1 to 3mm) leave .003-.006” (.07 to .14mm)
2. 1/8 to ¼ (3 to 6mm) leave .005-.009” (.13 to .23mm)
3. ¼ to 3/8 (6 to 9mm) leave .007-.012” (.17 to .30mm)
4. 3/8 to ½ (9 to 12mm) leave .010-.015” (.25 to .50mm)
5. ½ to ¾ (12 to 20mm) leave 1/64 to 1/32” (.50 to 1mm)
6. ¾ to 1 (20 to 25mm) leave 1/32” (1mm)
Class handout: drive.google.com/open?id=1iTl...
If you like my videos, please consider supporting my channel on Patreon. You'll get access to gag reels and I'll give you a shout out in my videos.
/ stuartdeharo
This is one of those videos that took me from knowing nothing about reamers to well on my way to selecting and properly using a reamer in 5 minutes. What a gem.
youtube.com/@thaaiveeduchannel
I wish I had 1000s of these videos to watch. Glorious.
M-A-S-S-I-V-E-L-Y helpful for someone rather new to machining and completely new to reaming. Thank you so much!
Always appreciate the class handouts. Thanks for another info packed concise video.
Exceptionally comprehensive basics. This is sure to go on to have a much viewed and very helpful video life.
Good to see you back Stuart! Thanks for the lesson.
Enjoyed listening to your explanation on reamers. I haven't used many in the past this information will be very useful. Thank Tony
I know this is an old video, but I've been watching your "basics" videos, and really appreciate the conciseness but still useful way you present the information.
It doesn't matter how old it is, I still get the notification. I'm glad you're getting something out of the videos. Thanks for watching!
Good info Stuart, especially the blind hole tip. Also thanks for sharing your class handout.
Thanks for making this video. As a neophyte machinist wannabe, this kind of information is hard to come by I am finding.
I recently found your channel and I'm glad I did! Really informative video! Thanks for putting this info out.
Great content, expertly produced, and very well communicated. Well deserving of my sub!
I'm glad you like it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Excellent as always.
thanks Stuart, much appreciated
Great videos. How I did not know about this channel sooner 😢
Great information, thank you!
Another great informative video, Thank You
Outstanding video !
Thanks. It really brings the room together.
Very interesting, thanks!
Awesome video thanks!
this is very informative..thank you!
great video, thanks!
Great info
Very good explanation
One word, Merci.
Much appreciated
The 'plaidsplainin arm returns, useful vid...😉
Thsnks for sharing 🥰😍
Appreciate this. I am making prototype drone and needs to enlarge a motor bell's bore hole. I am looking up hand reamer now.
Good luck with your drone project. Thanks for watching!
good info TFS (thanks for sharing). GB :)
Nice video
Thank Youy
GOLD
Well done. I'm surprised you didn't mention using spiral reamers when encountering a cross hole.
Actually, that's a new one for me. Thanks for giving me some food for thought!
Good 👍
Nice
John! Your avatar looks just like you!
Great video. I'm new to this topic so I learned allot, but still have some unanswered questions. 1. If reaming a hole that should end up being 43.95mm how much stock should you leave? 2. And since its done in a plate of 304 stainless steel is there anything I should have in mind? type of reamer? type of cutting oil? The plate is just 6mm thick. I hope to hear from you and hope it might help more people out there:)
I know that this is a 2 year old question, but a good rule of thumb is to leave about 2% of material left to be reamed out.
When it comes to adjustable reamers, there is a way to improve them and the results they give. It involves grinding the blades so that they have a negative rake.
Source: ua-cam.com/video/ycb4r0_5zkw/v-deo.html
Great content and appreciate your time on putting it together.
I have a pile of Pratt & Whitney shell reamers but no arbors to drive them. Tried looking for an hour or so online and nothing... any thoughts where I can find arbors? Thank you
It looks like they sell them at MSC and other industrial suppliers. Amazon has them too. Just search for "shell mill arbors". They're not cheap so make sure you're sitting down and puckered tight.
Thanks Stuart. It somewhat smells a TOT video, but very interesting. Greetings from locked down Switzerland 😷😷
Good to see you back, getting bored at home already?😉
Believe it or not, I'm actually busier now than I usually am at work. For my day job, I have daily conference calls with the other foremen to make sure everyone's still alive. For the teaching gig I have to get the rest of my lectures online so my students can at least finish the classroom part of the class, hence this video and the ones to follow. It has been a little crazy. Take care and thanks for watching!
I’m slightly confused! With the allowance chart 9mm - 12mm. = .25 - .5 mm Is that total or on both sides of the hole?
Second is that .25 for 9mm. And .5mm for 12mm. How do I work out the amount for 10mm ?
Sorry if I’m not getting it!
I’m still confused as to which side is the cutting edge and which is reverse? I have a reamer and was told to run it in reverse to cut carburetor throttle bushings. Didn’t seem to cut one way so I switched
They only cut in one direction and it's the same as most cutters, clockwise when viewed from the top of the spindle. If you’re ever unsure, you can look at the cutting end of the tool and see the geometry of the cutting edge. The flutes of the cutter form the cutting edge much like the teeth on a saw blade and that makes it pretty easy to visualize how it cuts. If you imagine the shape of the tool rotating, which way is going to shave off material and which will just rub?
So if I understand correctly, when you have drilled a 7,5 mm hole and you want to end up with a 8,0 mm hole, you have to do it in at least two different reaming steps (between 0,17 and 0,30 mm per reaming step)?
I wouldn't. I know the standard metric drill index is only in 0.5mm increments, but you can buy drills individually in finer increments, or you could buy a cheaper set of inch drills just to fill in the gaps between the sizes. The smaller your reamer the less material you should leave before reaming, so it is really only a concern below 10 or 11mm. Above that, 0.5mm between drills would probably be fine.
Stuart, a question if you don't mind. I have a spindle with a MT2 where the taper is close to 5 thou off. I'm not using it, but would like to. Do you think that it makes sense to ream it in hopes of eliminating the runout? Or, in your experience, does this sound like something that needs to be re-milled? I don't have the skill for the latter, but I'd sure give a reamer a shot if it made sense. Thank you.
Reaming is just going to follow the hole that's there. It really would need to be reground. The spindle is almost certainly heat treated as well, so reaming probably wouldn't be successful anyway.
@@StuartdeHaro Thank you. That's what I was afraid of. Appreciate the information.
How similar in size does the drilled holes need to be in relation to the reamer? Can I drill a .140 hole a chase it with a .156 reamer?
I have a stock allowance chart down in the video description that will give you an idea of how much material to leave.
Great video on reamers, you answered a lot of questions I have been dwelling on. If I could ask you a question on the short stubby reamers, what is the purpose of the perpendicular hole that is drilled in the shank towards the rear of the reamer? Is it a means of holding while under power or is there a special tool holder that keeps the reamer in place? Thank you for your time and knowledge. Paul Greenlee
Do you mean in the very back? That's a shell reamer. The perpendicular slot is for the drive key on the shank I show at 1:51.
Thank you Sir, I knew it had to be a way of holding the reamer but the shank through me off. Looks like a regular short reamer, maybe 3" or more with the hole about a 1/4" from the back. Wish I could post a picture.@@StuartdeHaro
For home use, are reamers something you’d buy a set of or just pick them up one at a time as you need them?
Hi Ben! I usually buy them as I need them, but an Over/Under set is a good buy.
Thanks Stuart! I’ll keep an eye out for used sets but I only need a few at the moment so I’ll probably just pick those up individually.
what about stub screw machine reamers?
Hello Stuart. I have a qustion here. For 10 mm reaming, should I make pre drilling 9,5 mm or 9,75mm? I mean the stock of 0,25 mm is in radial or diameteral
It's diameter so drill to 9.75mm.
@@StuartdeHaro thank you so much Stuart.
Drill bits do not always make oversized holes. If material is plastic like delrin they tend to run undersized from .001-.002
That is true.
Should i use cutting oil while reaming manganese bronze with manual reamer? Thanks.
I'm not sure on that one. Generally oil isn't needed on bronzes, but I would give it a try on a bit of scrap and see how it turns out.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks.
Only issue I have is do these cut their own holes or do they have to be opened first before reaming? If so what do you drill with first because you said a drill bit cuts oversize so what would a reamer do?
You have to drill a hole first and the amount you leave for the reamer is dependent on the diameter of the hole. I believe I put a stock allowance chart in the description of the video.
I apologize if the answer to this question is super obvious and I’m just too dumb to see it, but I am a literal, just starting out novice when it comes to machining and I’ve only just learned of reamers recently. Anyway, why is it a problem to hit the bottom of a hole with a reamer? Can’t you just use a depth stop on the drill or something like that?
The reamer will start to wobble and cut an oversized hole when it hits the bottom. This is because drills tend to drift sideways as they cut due to one cutting edge being a little longer than the other.
does the adjustable reamer with opposing nuts only cut in one direction? what I mean is if you turn it to the right it will cut but if you turn it to the left it won't cut.
That's correct. Turning it backwards will dull the edges as well.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks for the info. So what you are saying is that turning it to the left will dull the cutting edge( the edge that cuts when you turn it to the right) Correct?
I use these reamers in instrument repair. I never cut with the one I have ,I use it only to re-round valve casings on trumpets by turning it to the left.
The one I have is from Feree's Tools. I bought it 20 years ago and one of the blades was lost. I thought it wold be good to buy another but when I went to their website the price was $280, about $200 more than I paid for the first one I bought. I went on line and found one for much less. I just wanted to make sure that these type of reamers are all the same and only cut in one direction. Of course I will try this new reamer on a junker horn just to be sure.Thanks for your time.
Ruben
Brooklyn Brass & Reed
I've actually had to take dents out of valve casings before but I never use a cutting tool. I made a mandrel the same size as the valve and slightly tapered for the first inch or so. I can drive that into the casing and then use a plastic mallet to raise the dent and round out the casing. The last step is to re-lap the valve.
@@StuartdeHaro Just to be clear I never use the reamer to cut, only to re-round a casing. I'm not talking about dent removal.
But could you please answer my question about what edge is being dulled when the reamer is turned to the left? the cutting edge I assume?If it dulled the other edge it wouldn't really matter I guess.Thanks again. I appreciate your wisdom.
ruben
Yes, when you turn it to the left, the cutting edge would be dulled. If you look at the blades you can see which direction they are supposed to cut in because of the relief angle on the side.
Hi...do you know the reason why the driller is inconsistent with the depth? Because of this our reamer gets bad because some parts where not drilled enough.
We have cnc horizontal mill and we make 40 parts per cycle... Randomly, the driller didn't make or drill enough the depth required so when the reamer goes in and hit those part then definitely get damage.
The only reasons I can think of why this would happen would be if the drill broke or slipped in the chuck and got pushed in. Slipping could happen gradually until the hole is finally too shallow.
Thanks for the reply...I'm just new on cnc field...trying to learn more
remar bibrugarh me kaha milega
I would like to know if I can send you some pictures/details about a possible reamer maybe a chucking one that my father passed down to me?
Sure. My email is my channel name with no spaces or caps @gmail.com
@StuartdeHaro I'll get back to you this weekend with the pics, thanks for the quick response.
@@MrFreakshow1969 No problem at all
i need to expand a 10mm hole to 20mm. What do you recommend
That's way too much for a reamer. If you need a reamed hole, drill it out to 19.5 first and then finish it with the 20mm reamer. If finish and size don't matter as much, just drill it out to 20mm and call it a day.
Good use of the internet.
Thanks Charlie Sheen
who tried to wipe their screen at 4:08
Are you poking fun at my dusty piece of velvet? I swear I went over it with a lint roller. I really did!
I just watch a guy in his shop and he used the machine in reverse for reamer. What gives
Possibly a mistake, possibly a left-handed cutter. Who knows?