😂 I was just thinking that the fussiness and particularity of the pantograph would frustrate the majority of makers, but it is 💯 fitting for Uri’s character and method of making!
You always seem like someone plucked a craftsman out of the 1800’s and brought them to modern times; used to old school tools, but thrilled to try all the crazy new things we have now!
I hope you've enjoyed the video! But, like Some of you have already mentioned, I've made the pigeon right side up wich is the wrong way around, I've done goofed again😅.
You should definitely get with Elegoo and ask them to send you one of their PHECDA 20W laser cutters. Be sure to ask them for the enclosure though, because it's kinda hazardous in an enclosed space. With some ventilation and/or filtration, it's an insanely capable machine. I know you're more about the artisanal skills, but this new fangled technology is pretty cool too! I use mine for leather working mainly, but it is very capable with thin wood, and can engrave stainless steel and aluminum.
I love the crossover between art and engineering on your channel. It feels like a late 18th century "inventor" time travelled and is learning about 20/21st century tools.
Yeah I think youre right. Have a similar elgoo and it prints the most random barely setup stuff just fine for me, think i had 1 or 2 failures out of everything since i started.
I had a lot of issues with prints sticking to the bottom of the vat in the beginning. I ended up applying a thin coat of the film type lube to it and increased exposure time for the first few layers. Also roughed up the aluminium plate a bit. Haven't had an issue since.
I bought nFEP film instead of the regular FEP sheets for both of my printers, it peels much easier and lasts way longer, totally worth the extra money if you get it from a reputable source.
SLA printers can struggle with large flat models. For models like this, printing them at 45 degrees to the bed and adding supports will help limit the surface area in contact with the FEP film (the suction from high surface area can contribute to failed prints). Also, adding a hole for excess resin to drain can help reduce the amount of resin used.
Yeah looking at the bottom of his successful print, it's quite clear there was a massive suction problem and that he was printing it flat and not angling or hollowing it. I think he was treating his SLA printer like an FDM printer.
You can see a lot of things wrong with the attempt shown.. The FEP is scratched to hell and the vat wasn’t screwed down tightly so it was lifting as the build plate was trying to pull away from the FEP. 10:17 . Bummer because I think it would have been nice for him to see the quality of result that’s possible.
just a heads up, you want the screws holding the vat of resin down on the printer, all the way in so that it doesnt lift when the print bed lifts. thats prolly the biggest issue you are having with the elegoo. hope this helps!
It warms my heart to see the pantomill (that's what I was told it is called). When I was 18 yrs old I operated one of these for a company that made custom embossing dies for business cards, birthday cards, etc. Sadly, I only lasted 8 or 10 months there as I was more interested in being a crazy punk rocker. I still enjoy the memories of running that machine, and wish I had one now! Enjoy your new machine(s)! And thanks for the video! Nice work!
From watching other channels, I've learned it's important to keep any wood dust/shavings/etc from the moving parts of the mill, as they absorb oil, and can become abrasive. So might be good idea to have a vacuum for sucking up the saw dust when working with wood. Or maybe you're mill can handle it better. At any rate, that mill is super cool with the pantograph feature!
Your designs? Quirky and wonderful. Your visions? Unique and charming. Your techniques? Strange and awesome. But your spirit is what keeps me coming back. Truly inspiring.
I love the stamp! What better than a carrier pigeon for a letter? Fun fact: they actually still make and sell stamps and wax for sealing letters - I can tell you firsthand that you'll get a cleaner seal if you chill the stamp before using.
That mill looks like the perfect one for your style of work. I didn’t know pantograph mills like this existed. They look so useful for art and sculpting. There is a way to do complex sculpting without using the pantograph or a 3D printer. You can get a small ball endmill, the smaller the more resolution it has. And plot out all the coordinates needed. Set your X and Y coordinates, then move in slowly to your Z coordinate. Lift back up and move to the next XY then cut down in Z. Plotting out all the moves manually on a piece of paper is the hardest part. You might draw your design on graph paper first and then use that to estimate your X and Y moves. Then estimate the depth you want. A plastic FDM 3D printer with PLA filament is very easy to learn how to use. You might want to try that
Ich liebe deine Videos. Die Kunstfertigkeit, den Humor, die Art wie du die Videos machst, deine Musikauswahl (oder wenn du selbst was aus den Sprachschnipseln was geschnipselt hast) ... Immer wieder schön zu sehen. Freue mich auf mehr.
Work of art! The stamp and stand for shellac looks elegant. You don't need a CNC machine friend. The joy of creativity is lost in CNC machines. All the best for future crafts.
In most cases a CNC mill or laser will be better, and now they are so cheap I doubt many places have a Pantograph. Which is an opportunity if you have space - must be heaps of these things kicking around out there now, and because you have a human in the control loop they are really really powerful for the sort of stuff Uri likes to do - That artistic, often a one off yet with some repeating elements like the upside down bird engraving a human with the right template and pantograph can just do, and place wherever they like on the part trivially. I'd love to have one, even though I know I'm hopefully this year going to get around to that light duty CNC router so just where I'd manage to put one of the pantographs too..
@@foldionepapyrus3441These Deckel brand pantographs are selling for dirt cheap here in Germany. Every company that still has one is trying to get rid of them. So if you have the space and means to transport it they're absolutely wonderful!
I have missed URI's videos, he's a genius in sheep's clothing, fine arts at its best. His humorous antidotes are par excellence and is a pleasure to watch him design, produce and demonstrate his incredible creations. I was so happy when I stumbled upon this video and have enjoyed it very much. Wow, your shop has grown so much since I've seen you. Thank you Sir for your videos, time and inventions a real treat. 👍👍👍
All hail, Uri Tuchman Crown Prince of Thingajigs, Lord Protector of Contemporary Antiquities is back! We have missed you and are ecstatic for your return! Wonderful video, fantastic project.
I was sent here by The Wise and Merciful UA-cam Algorithm, and I am *delighted* to find a maker/woodworker whose process, luck, and results seem FAR closer to how things actually go when I try to do these things. I feel seen and validated-plus, it lets me know that these don't just happen because I'm a screw-up. Also, I *LOVE* your new machine! I'd have snatched it up, too!
I'm quite sure that most UA-camrs screw it up, bladly. They just either don't put the mess in the video, or just bluff their way out of it, shifting attention elsewere or making a failure seem like something intended. Very few people don't mess up when working. And that kind of master of their craft, usually, would not be to interested in making UA-cam videos, as their market and client base is solid enough it is not worth the trouble.
Thanks Stefan! Im getting to know this machine and I'm very pleased so far, though not having 1:1 can be annoying sometimes, and the cross table is kinda odd, I'm having to reorient the vice quite often to get the cutting range I need. Always had my eyes on the kf series, but it's way to big for my shop 😅.
A masterpiece! You are a true artist, as well as a talented maker. Nice new machine by the way, I've used something similar before (a British Taylor-Hobson)
3d printing is harder than many content creators portray. The fact that Elegoo sent you one, no questions asked, and you decided it wasn't for you, speaks volumes to me about their faith in their products. When it's time for a Resin printer, I'll look at them first.
I’ve been subscribed for quite awhile. Your channel is one I genuinely get excited about seeing notifications from. You’re a clever guy with the great ability to showcase your skill in conjunction with entertainment. I wish you all the very best success in life. Thank you for your hard work and dedication.
I love this because I used the pantograph professionally to make seals like this every week for years. You have everything right, missing the part wherre you buff out the hard edges so the wax will release consistently - and another hint; keep the seal (brass) in a cool place, when using to form the best reverse of the cut seal, the wax cooling fast will make a better impression. Embossing trades for the win!~ thanks for sharing! new sub thanks to this one and my admiration for the tool
You are a true genius, Tuchman. Not a genius in a specific area. A skilled craftsman, incredible creativity, good drawing, awesome producer and a true artist. Everything together makes you a content genius. Side by side with This Old Tonny.
I watched some of your videos a few years ago, yesterdey I remembered that and thought that I should try to find your channel again, and then UA-cam just suggested this video...
I am so glad the algorithm blessed me with your videos! You are extremely talented and skilled and we all admire your craft and attention to detail as well as the humour and knowledge you flavour your videos with. Keep going!
Another typically charming, inventive, instructive, and funny video. I'm glad I'm subscribed. I'd love to have a pantograph machine like that, I can think of lots of uses for it, and it's just plain cool besides. Bending a threaded shaft with a hammer is very familiar to me- I often do it on violin bow screws where the button (the bit you turn to tighten the bow) screws on. There's no precision necessary here, just holding power. In case you haven't heard it, here are the Three Rules of Handwork: 1. Always use the best tool for the job. 2. A hammer is always the best tool. 3. Anything can be a hammer. Thanks and cheers from cloudy Vienna, Scott
Awesome! I used those machines quite a bit in the past, i happen to had a few oddly shaped brass pieces that just by coincident happen to lay on the bench, but once one learned it the possiblities are nearly endless!
@@glenjamindleYou can set the connection point of the parralellogram by moving it back or froward to a sliding scale (on the conterpart) which is marked as a ruler for the desired ratio (or a ratio of Your own whish), but it seem like 2:1 is the zero setting for some reason, i could not fint 1:1 settings, when the paralellogram is locked in possition (if you change the scale the paralellogram will be slightly assymetric in the desired direction) it will scale up or down by it self (because of the joints possition) accodring to the settings it has been fixed in. (The machine belong to a friend so i don't hawe it here for pictures...) You can make a toy pantograpf from flowersticks and tape a pen or crayon in one end and a toothpick or someting in the other for traching if one want to learn how the rombic assymetri works. I had lot of fun with those home made toys as a kid before the era of modern cellphones and TV games! I hope this was somewhat readable... Feel free to ask if You hawe question you think i can ansvear or type down more clar... I would love to see more of those old machines in use by people who are interested in learning them! Today everything seem to be high speed CNC, the result is probably better, and i i am not agianst progress, i plan to make a CNC my self one day, but there is something special about things that are made this way by an old scool craftsman using a hand controlled macine those mass produced things are missing in my personal opinion.
@@glenjamindleI think my previous post was unnessesary complicated... if one think about it like this: a wooden beam lies on a barrel on the ground, if the barrel is placed in the middle of the beam we haw a ratio of 1:1, if we move the barrel forward we will see a negative/declining ratio (but increased force) and the opposite if we are moving it in the opposite direction the movement of the free end will increase proportionally, the forward part will be longer or shorter accodring to the possition of the barrel so to speak.
When 3d printing resin you want to avoid big flat surfaces that will cause suction, that peeling/popping noise you hear when the build plate lifts is the printed layer "unsticking" from the FEP. Rotating the model 12-20 ish degrees and using supports/raft can help reduce the surface area thats touching the FEP. Making it hollow and having, more than one, drain hole can also help reduce suction. Another reason you should avoid printing a model flat and directly on the plate is deformation. The first few layers have higher exposure times so the print sticks to the build plate better. Resin prints shrink when curing, since the bottom layers have been exposed to UV light for longer, they will shrink faster than later layers and cause the print to deform and "slice" itself open between high exposure time layer and normal exposure times layer.
Turned out awesome Uri! For the printing problems, the build plate could be warped. They are cast aluminum and they may not be perfectly flat, they really should be machined before leaving the factory. At least that's what was wrong with mine. You can check it if you have a surface plate and some high spot paste. Also it could be too cold in your shop, printing should be done between 23-25 celcius minimum. I built a super cheap heated enclosure with foam core and duct tape and put an elecric heater inside.
I love this channel. Truly a master of close-enough-menship
Haha I love it! I also watch Stefan Gotteswinter and imagine him wincing at every step, but also appreciating the workmanship all the way.
Yes it is refreshing!
Men on the ship are never close enough to me
Am I stealing that term? You damn right I am!
It’s called RAT drilling, RAT cutting, etc. RAT, Right About There.
You look exactly like I'd expect a Berlin craftsman to look. The jacket. The workshop. The contempt for the English language. Beautiful. Love it.
Except that Uri is an Israeli name and he's accent sounds Israeli to me also,
Pretty sure he is french
@@anders-krarup I thought he was Germanical?
@@anders-krarup He absolutely doesn't sound French.
Cheers from France.
The moustache
I don't know what I expected, but that pantograph mill is exactly the right sort of machine for this channel in particular.
Fantastic machine.
I didn't know it existed but it seems such a simple and elegant to accurately mill detailed pieces. I love it
😂 I was just thinking that the fussiness and particularity of the pantograph would frustrate the majority of makers, but it is 💯 fitting for Uri’s character and method of making!
You always seem like someone plucked a craftsman out of the 1800’s and brought them to modern times; used to old school tools, but thrilled to try all the crazy new things we have now!
New headcanon
@@samsturtevant4107 holy hell
I hope you've enjoyed the video! But, like Some of you have already mentioned, I've made the pigeon right side up wich is the wrong way around, I've done goofed again😅.
honestly that's what makes it fun for us
We love you Uri! If we didn't, we would not give you a hard time. :-)
You should definitely get with Elegoo and ask them to send you one of their PHECDA 20W laser cutters. Be sure to ask them for the enclosure though, because it's kinda hazardous in an enclosed space. With some ventilation and/or filtration, it's an insanely capable machine. I know you're more about the artisanal skills, but this new fangled technology is pretty cool too! I use mine for leather working mainly, but it is very capable with thin wood, and can engrave stainless steel and aluminum.
It's just upside-down twice.
@@BrooksMosesYeah, right-side wrong!
I love the crossover between art and engineering on your channel. It feels like a late 18th century "inventor" time travelled and is learning about 20/21st century tools.
I am highly convinced this man is a time traveler from the 60's who's using modern technology to make his work easier
1660's
A Pantograph seems like a perfect addition to your workshop for the type of shenanigans you get up to. Really great video!
Yeah, likely much more useful than a traditional milling machine to Uri.
Yes. I tend to agree. The level of shenanigans is likely to increase, leaving us with exponentially greater enjoyment.
I love the quirky humor and beautiful artistry of the filming, editing, and projects! Please never stop making videos!
can't believe he's german lol
He is NOT@@nirodper
@@Grumpycat0405 well that explains it then
@@Grumpycat0405he's israelian and lives in Berlin right?
Even the music is top notch!
Great stuff Uri!
I just love your work Uri !
Thanks man!
It looked like the vat on your 3D printer wasn't screwed down tight, causing it to lift with the printed part.
I have this printer. What samurai says is spot on.
@@scooter_scooter_scooter Yes, also, that base is way too big, the suction force will be crazy, he need to incline the print.
Yeah I think youre right. Have a similar elgoo and it prints the most random barely setup stuff just fine for me, think i had 1 or 2 failures out of everything since i started.
I had a lot of issues with prints sticking to the bottom of the vat in the beginning. I ended up applying a thin coat of the film type lube to it and increased exposure time for the first few layers. Also roughed up the aluminium plate a bit. Haven't had an issue since.
I bought nFEP film instead of the regular FEP sheets for both of my printers, it peels much easier and lasts way longer, totally worth the extra money if you get it from a reputable source.
SLA printers can struggle with large flat models. For models like this, printing them at 45 degrees to the bed and adding supports will help limit the surface area in contact with the FEP film (the suction from high surface area can contribute to failed prints). Also, adding a hole for excess resin to drain can help reduce the amount of resin used.
Yeah looking at the bottom of his successful print, it's quite clear there was a massive suction problem and that he was printing it flat and not angling or hollowing it. I think he was treating his SLA printer like an FDM printer.
You can see a lot of things wrong with the attempt shown.. The FEP is scratched to hell and the vat wasn’t screwed down tightly so it was lifting as the build plate was trying to pull away from the FEP. 10:17 . Bummer because I think it would have been nice for him to see the quality of result that’s possible.
I thought Uri was already a CNC machine without the computer. His engraving is insanely detailed and clean
just a heads up, you want the screws holding the vat of resin down on the printer, all the way in so that it doesnt lift when the print bed lifts. thats prolly the biggest issue you are having with the elegoo. hope this helps!
It warms my heart to see the pantomill (that's what I was told it is called). When I was 18 yrs old I operated one of these for a company that made custom embossing dies for business cards, birthday cards, etc. Sadly, I only lasted 8 or 10 months there as I was more interested in being a crazy punk rocker. I still enjoy the memories of running that machine, and wish I had one now!
Enjoy your new machine(s)! And thanks for the video! Nice work!
I'll tell you what's better than a Uri Tuchman video....nope, I've got nothing.
TWO Uri Tuchman videos, obviously 😄
@@angelowentzler9961 I made a schoolboy error
Getting one of his pieces at auction would be pretty sweet.
A pigeön inside a pigeön and sealed with a picture of a pigeön, pörhaps?
I absolutely adore these videos, but especially the Monty Python-esque illustrations throughout!
Well done, sir.
From watching other channels, I've learned it's important to keep any wood dust/shavings/etc from the moving parts of the mill, as they absorb oil, and can become abrasive. So might be good idea to have a vacuum for sucking up the saw dust when working with wood. Or maybe you're mill can handle it better.
At any rate, that mill is super cool with the pantograph feature!
I'm so glad the upside-down pigeon has endured since the belt buckle days. And long may the pigeon reign~
but it seems to be right side on the wax stamp, doesn’t it 🙈? maybe a chance for a second try with the printer…
Your designs? Quirky and wonderful. Your visions? Unique and charming. Your techniques? Strange and awesome.
But your spirit is what keeps me coming back. Truly inspiring.
Uri is quickly becoming the Stanley Kubrick of makers. Can't wait to see your Eyes Wide Shut!
Weirdo.....
Love your crazyness, plus you always make projects I didn't know I was interested in and then find myself obsessed with.
King is back. Love this kind of humour in Your video's Uri. 👍
I love the stamp! What better than a carrier pigeon for a letter? Fun fact: they actually still make and sell stamps and wax for sealing letters - I can tell you firsthand that you'll get a cleaner seal if you chill the stamp before using.
That mill looks like the perfect one for your style of work. I didn’t know pantograph mills like this existed. They look so useful for art and sculpting.
There is a way to do complex sculpting without using the pantograph or a 3D printer. You can get a small ball endmill, the smaller the more resolution it has. And plot out all the coordinates needed. Set your X and Y coordinates, then move in slowly to your Z coordinate. Lift back up and move to the next XY then cut down in Z. Plotting out all the moves manually on a piece of paper is the hardest part. You might draw your design on graph paper first and then use that to estimate your X and Y moves. Then estimate the depth you want.
A plastic FDM 3D printer with PLA filament is very easy to learn how to use. You might want to try that
Ich liebe deine Videos. Die Kunstfertigkeit, den Humor, die Art wie du die Videos machst, deine Musikauswahl (oder wenn du selbst was aus den Sprachschnipseln was geschnipselt hast) ... Immer wieder schön zu sehen. Freue mich auf mehr.
When I grow up. I want to be like Uri.
Work of art! The stamp and stand for shellac looks elegant. You don't need a CNC machine friend. The joy of creativity is lost in CNC machines. All the best for future crafts.
That pantograph is actually a pretty neat contraption.
In most cases a CNC mill or laser will be better, and now they are so cheap I doubt many places have a Pantograph. Which is an opportunity if you have space - must be heaps of these things kicking around out there now, and because you have a human in the control loop they are really really powerful for the sort of stuff Uri likes to do - That artistic, often a one off yet with some repeating elements like the upside down bird engraving a human with the right template and pantograph can just do, and place wherever they like on the part trivially. I'd love to have one, even though I know I'm hopefully this year going to get around to that light duty CNC router so just where I'd manage to put one of the pantographs too..
@@foldionepapyrus3441These Deckel brand pantographs are selling for dirt cheap here in Germany. Every company that still has one is trying to get rid of them.
So if you have the space and means to transport it they're absolutely wonderful!
oh this guys vibe is PERFECT
I have missed URI's videos, he's a genius in sheep's clothing, fine arts at its best. His humorous antidotes are par excellence and is a pleasure to watch him design, produce and demonstrate his incredible creations. I was so happy when I stumbled upon this video and have enjoyed it very much. Wow, your shop has grown so much since I've seen you. Thank you Sir for your videos, time and inventions a real treat. 👍👍👍
This is the first video of yours I've watched and I have absolutely fallen in love with the Dingsdibumsda approach of everything 😂
All hail, Uri Tuchman Crown Prince of Thingajigs, Lord Protector of Contemporary Antiquities is back! We have missed you and are ecstatic for your return! Wonderful video, fantastic project.
Fantastic stuff.
The HNC machine is great...
Well done!
Just found your stuff and I ADORE YOUR HUMOR 😂
Unclench your jaw my friend, sending you good vibes from the US ✨
Almost half a year, have really missed your videos.
See you next time.
Uri ! WHAT would we do without YOU ?? Fabulous, as always, thank you so much !
I was sent here by The Wise and Merciful UA-cam Algorithm, and I am *delighted* to find a maker/woodworker whose process, luck, and results seem FAR closer to how things actually go when I try to do these things. I feel seen and validated-plus, it lets me know that these don't just happen because I'm a screw-up.
Also, I *LOVE* your new machine! I'd have snatched it up, too!
I'm quite sure that most UA-camrs screw it up, bladly. They just either don't put the mess in the video, or just bluff their way out of it, shifting attention elsewere or making a failure seem like something intended.
Very few people don't mess up when working. And that kind of master of their craft, usually, would not be to interested in making UA-cam videos, as their market and client base is solid enough it is not worth the trouble.
Excelent video, as always Uri. An absolute pleasure to watch you work, and I love all the little extra bits of art and editing jokes you throw in.
Lovely to see a Deckel GK in use 🙂
Enjoyed the project a lot.
Thanks Stefan! Im getting to know this machine and I'm very pleased so far, though not having 1:1 can be annoying sometimes, and the cross table is kinda odd, I'm having to reorient the vice quite often to get the cutting range I need.
Always had my eyes on the kf series, but it's way to big for my shop 😅.
A masterpiece! You are a true artist, as well as a talented maker. Nice new machine by the way, I've used something similar before (a British Taylor-Hobson)
You know, I've almost bought one of those, but there where no accessories and finding them elsewhere is near impossible, So I didn't follow through.
My goodness your channel is funny. You've earned a new subscriber.
Last year, i bought a pantograph machine for 150,- euro. They are cheap and so practical for a lot of things.
No matter what do you manufacture, we love the process the most.
The correct spelling is "Thingamyjig".
A Scottish word for things you don't know the correct name for.
In daily,if not hourly,use over here.
It's "Thingamajig" in Ireland.
Sounds like, you guys from the old country have too much Glenmorangie's to give devices such odd names...Cheers I'm having one right now.
Or Bushmills.
For the record,there is no "e" in Whisky.
Yes my friend@@k1ckyscotland988
Uri! Glad to see you here again, and quality of video is still great as always!
Magnifique. Transition’s are on point!!!
Good to see you again, well done 👍
You produce really interesting and fun videos
That really is ,the pigeon post..............Outstanding!!
A Tuchman video! What a great way to start the weekend.
A true craftsman. Love your work Uri, thank you for teaching us and making us laugh.
You are a wonderful human. Good job at being alive!
Always such a joy to see a new Tuchman video uploaded!
This has to be one of the coolest machines Ive ever seen and Uri is absolutley the perfect maker to wield it
wow, cool work !
Thank you!
Best channel on UA-cam. Uri you are hilarious and a genius.
You are wonderful. Great workmanship and excellent sense of humor.
3:50 « _human clutch_ » HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA I'm dead 😂😂😂😂
That was so cool! I love wax seals and watching you make this was very fun!
3d printing is harder than many content creators portray. The fact that Elegoo sent you one, no questions asked, and you decided it wasn't for you, speaks volumes to me about their faith in their products. When it's time for a Resin printer, I'll look at them first.
2:25 "You live, and you learn, and you live again." Words to live again by!
Always look forward to your videos. Great work!
You're back Uri!!! You've had many of us concerned 😢
Always overly complex.
Always remarkably fidgety.
Unforgivingly beautiful.
Keep it up!
Only a minute in and this video is already delightful!
I’ve been subscribed for quite awhile. Your channel is one I genuinely get excited about seeing notifications from.
You’re a clever guy with the great ability to showcase your skill in conjunction with entertainment.
I wish you all the very best success in life. Thank you for your hard work and dedication.
beautiful end product as always, and I'm very much enjoying the editing these days. The whole video looks like hard work but a great time all at once
So fabulous to see another video from you, Uri! You're one of my very favourites for sure. Your sense of humour is just perfect.
Nice to see you back, Uri.
That was really cool. Beautiful project and awesome machine. I'll see you at MC. Cheers J
Thanks! See you there!
I love this because I used the pantograph professionally to make seals like this every week for years. You have everything right, missing the part wherre you buff out the hard edges so the wax will release consistently - and another hint; keep the seal (brass) in a cool place, when using to form the best reverse of the cut seal, the wax cooling fast will make a better impression. Embossing trades for the win!~ thanks for sharing! new sub thanks to this one and my admiration for the tool
You are a true genius, Tuchman.
Not a genius in a specific area.
A skilled craftsman, incredible creativity, good drawing, awesome producer and a true artist.
Everything together makes you a content genius.
Side by side with This Old Tonny.
Awesome job and I love the machine you used
So glad to see another video from you. The past few months must have been excruciatingly difficult for you. My heart is with you.
A real treat every time. Thanks for the video!
THE EMPEROR APPROVES OF THIS WORK
I watched some of your videos a few years ago, yesterdey I remembered that and thought that I should try to find your channel again, and then UA-cam just suggested this video...
You're creations are truly unique, And so is your style, machinery and tools !!
We need artists like you in this space.
I am so glad the algorithm blessed me with your videos! You are extremely talented and skilled and we all admire your craft and attention to detail as well as the humour and knowledge you flavour your videos with. Keep going!
This is bloody epic!
Another typically charming, inventive, instructive, and funny video. I'm glad I'm subscribed. I'd love to have a pantograph machine like that, I can think of lots of uses for it, and it's just plain cool besides.
Bending a threaded shaft with a hammer is very familiar to me- I often do it on violin bow screws where the button (the bit you turn to tighten the bow) screws on. There's no precision necessary here, just holding power.
In case you haven't heard it, here are the Three Rules of Handwork:
1. Always use the best tool for the job.
2. A hammer is always the best tool.
3. Anything can be a hammer.
Thanks and cheers from cloudy Vienna, Scott
Your ingenuity is brilliant! And the result? Delicious!
Awesome! I used those machines quite a bit in the past, i happen to had a few oddly shaped brass pieces that just by coincident happen to lay on the bench, but once one learned it the possiblities are nearly endless!
Curious how you change the scale of the output on the pantograph
@@glenjamindleYou can set the connection point of the parralellogram by moving it back or froward to a sliding scale (on the conterpart) which is marked as a ruler for the desired ratio (or a ratio of Your own whish), but it seem like 2:1 is the zero setting for some reason, i could not fint 1:1 settings, when the paralellogram is locked in possition (if you change the scale the paralellogram will be slightly assymetric in the desired direction) it will scale up or down by it self (because of the joints possition) accodring to the settings it has been fixed in. (The machine belong to a friend so i don't hawe it here for pictures...) You can make a toy pantograpf from flowersticks and tape a pen or crayon in one end and a toothpick or someting in the other for traching if one want to learn how the rombic assymetri works. I had lot of fun with those home made toys as a kid before the era of modern cellphones and TV games! I hope this was somewhat readable... Feel free to ask if You hawe question you think i can ansvear or type down more clar... I would love to see more of those old machines in use by people who are interested in learning them! Today everything seem to be high speed CNC, the result is probably better, and i i am not agianst progress, i plan to make a CNC my self one day, but there is something special about things that are made this way by an old scool craftsman using a hand controlled macine those mass produced things are missing in my personal opinion.
@@glenjamindleI think my previous post was unnessesary complicated... if one think about it like this: a wooden beam lies on a barrel on the ground, if the barrel is placed in the middle of the beam we haw a ratio of 1:1, if we move the barrel forward we will see a negative/declining ratio (but increased force) and the opposite if we are moving it in the opposite direction the movement of the free end will increase proportionally, the forward part will be longer or shorter accodring to the possition of the barrel so to speak.
Nice! Take care to not let the candle burn down too far; it will scorch the base.
When 3d printing resin you want to avoid big flat surfaces that will cause suction, that peeling/popping noise you hear when the build plate lifts is the printed layer "unsticking" from the FEP. Rotating the model 12-20 ish degrees and using supports/raft can help reduce the surface area thats touching the FEP. Making it hollow and having, more than one, drain hole can also help reduce suction.
Another reason you should avoid printing a model flat and directly on the plate is deformation. The first few layers have higher exposure times so the print sticks to the build plate better. Resin prints shrink when curing, since the bottom layers have been exposed to UV light for longer, they will shrink faster than later layers and cause the print to deform and "slice" itself open between high exposure time layer and normal exposure times layer.
0:16 "There is numerical controls." It reminds me when some obscure chinese vendor trying to sell me something so obviously outdated product.
This is a great video; your sense of humor is fantastic. This easily deserves a million views.
Very cool. Everything you make is so fascinating.
So relaxing to watch, the best craftsmanship I've seen in a long time.
I am a person who has few idols. You are one of them, man. Your way to produce things is so rare in this broken world. Never change please
Good to see a YT from you again Uri. What a great result. I simply love the 'Make' things you create. You are a true Artisan.
That manual mill is insane. I love it!
I've always loved the vibe Uri builds in his videos and projects. Unmatched.
i love how you actually have a personality unlike most machining channels lol
Wow, best quality content that UA-cam has recommended to me in years! Fenomenal work!
Turned out awesome Uri! For the printing problems, the build plate could be warped. They are cast aluminum and they may not be perfectly flat, they really should be machined before leaving the factory. At least that's what was wrong with mine. You can check it if you have a surface plate and some high spot paste. Also it could be too cold in your shop, printing should be done between 23-25 celcius minimum. I built a super cheap heated enclosure with foam core and duct tape and put an elecric heater inside.
"So we have somewhat of a *thick* crack spoon" -Uri Tuchman 2024
Your channel speaks to me. I truely love what you're doing here.