Production Drilling 3/4" Holes in Steel Pins
Вставка
- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- I had a drilling job show up that needed a fast turnaround time. I decided to use this as another training job using Fusion 360 to make a simple program and drill two of these pins during each cycle. We used a 3/4" Chicao-Latrobe high speed steel drill bit I had on hand to get started quickly and get the job done. I used our @MilltronicsUSAInc TRM 3016 cnc mill to get this job done quickly and efficiently. #cncmachining #drilling #machineshop
Please visit @CRCAutoUS to learn more about their high quality industrial products like the SP-350 I used on my machine to protect them from rust and corrosion.
www.crcindustries.com/sp-350-...
#crcindustries #crcauto
Paypal Channel Donation: www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr...
Support though Patreon: / abom79
My Amazon store where I'm adding many of the tools and products I use in my own shop. Amazon.com/shop/abom79
Visit my second UA-cam channel where you can follow our travels, camping, RVing, cooking, and bbq! - Наука та технологія
I miss the old SNS.
I remember that Saunders had a sign that said something like "0 days since a Haimer probe was crashed". 🤣
I remember that too. 😅. Luckily I've only broken one haimer tip so far. Really sucked going back to an edge finder while I waited for a new one. Then I found out I accidentally bought a metric tip 😞
Everyone thinks running a CNC is easy. Until they have to do it:o) Keep up the great work!
If say anyone can run a CNC but setting up and programming? That's a skill that takes time.
At my last job we hired a couple guys from a shop that had a lot of CNC experience from a shop that had gone under. Turned out they were CNC operators - not much different from people working on automated factory equipment. They could put parts in a vice and push run but that was about it.
A great tip…
At the end of the program do a position move to have the table go to y0 (machine) so that you don’t have to reach into the cabinet.
Retract the tool to Z machine home and remove the tool from spindle so its ready for the next cycle.
It saves your back but most importantly it lets the guide blocks on the ways spread the oil over the rails…when doing a bunch of movements but only in 1 axis repeatedly there is a tendency to deplete oil on them.
Ever looked into a superdrill? It can save yourself a huge amount of time….no pilot or centering needed…no burs on either end…no peck cycle needed.
Great video!!!!
I do just what you outlined via a G30 move at the end of my code......I'm hoping Kevin can help Adam out with this fine tuning.
CNC is the future I know, but I miss the old days in your home shop!
Honestly, we're past the point of it being the future and more the standard especially for production runs. Home mini-cnc mills that can chew aluminum are getting more and more common growing with the 3d printing boom and an increasing supply of cheap stepper motors. My last job machining was a decade ago and even then, all our Bridgeport mills were retrofitted with CNC controllers as well. Didn't have to use any crazy jigs to mill an arc on the end of a part, could easily set markers for drilling repeat holes, just had to be mindful to flip the hand cranks in because when you hit that move button, she was MOVIN movin with a quickness!
@@94XJ You're missing that people like me came to this channel to see manual machining. There are plenty of other CNC channels if that's your interest - Adam's was all about manual machining and the legacy equipment and knowledge he learned from his father and grandfather. That was a unique perspective that very few others could replicate or compete with. And also it was about ABOM SIZED work - Big cuts and Big chips, which we mostly lost when he left Motion. Of course he can change his channel to whatever he wants, but I'll just have to find other channels to get my manual machining fix.
Adam, you are not alone.
I too had a renishaw probing accident on my HAAS TMIP Toolroom Mill.
I was probing a very small part that was held near the edge of the vise. I was doing this late in the evening when I was tired. I found out that a decimal point is VERY important when probing Z. Entering 5. instead of .5 was very costly. You were lucky. Mine cost about $1200,00 as the probe hit the edge of the vice.
One thing I learned was not be be programing the machine late in the evening when you are tired. I did this back in 2008 and have been lucky since. No more crashes. One other thing that I had the HAAS factory technician help me with was cutting the probing speeds in half to slow down the probing cycles. Takes a little longer but gives you a better chance at reaching the emergency stop button in a timely manner when needed 😪
Good advice!
Leave a tool in the spindle during wash down and/or clearing chips. Keeps chips from going up into the taper.. 😊
100%
Ive never seen ANYONE clean a machine with the spindle empty, especially with air. Common sense really.
HSS is actually almost impossible to find in the CNC world anymore. We only use it for special things. With solid carbide you don't have to pre-drill, the cutting speed is much higher and the service life is much longer. With internal cooling, the chips are conveyed out without having to reposition the spindle. Ready in about 15 seconds per part.
Greetings from Germany
Paul
Things like breaking the ruby are never if it will happen again, always when. I think you said it a while back. We don't learn from our successes as much as we learn from our failures.
We just use a good old fashioned edge finder to set our work locations. I'm a fan of confusion 360, but this is a great point to look at the code and learn to hand jam a simple job like this, its all easy x movements and canned drilling cycles.
Adam a great piece of advice is to take a basic g and m code programming class. I took one at my local community college and learned a great deal about manually writing and editing programs. That can save you a bunch of time when making program edits at the controller rather than going back to the computer. All that you would have had to do is change the positive x hole to a negative value and change the negative x hole to a positive value
CNC Haters... Adam has a knowledge of of tools, speeds, RPM, chatter, etc... That's what makes Adam so valuable for the CNC industry. He know thinks other than just loading a program and taking a break.
The joys of CNC machines. They're really good at doing what they're told. The person who taught me was doing machinability test on a ceramic polymer composite and misplaced a decimal in the program. Took a square end mill and turned it into a ball end mill since it cut at near rapid speeds.
Always a joy to sit down and watch your videos Adam, keep these up, I have learned so much about parts creations from you and I am an IT Consultant myself! to think I would be learning so much about metal work from you!
Hi Adam, this is Michael from Argo Machine Tools inc. since 1948. It's always best when cleaning to keep a tool holder in the spindle to avoid any scrap entering, Love your videos BTW. .
Good progress on your CNC. It will make you plenty money. ... When things don't go as planned it is always a learning experience .Long time watcher. Your transition to CNC is definitely a good move.
Thanks for bringing us along your journey. Great progress.
Another great job accomplished in your playground.
Nice to see some shop work getting knocked out. 🙂
G'day Adam. Always have scoffers, Don't worry about them. Call for Help / Guidance whenever you need, No Pressure that way.
Nice job & passing of info to your viewers.
I like watching setup procedures etc. Just have fun while making a few $$'s.
I appreciate your cleanliness around your tools. My uncle taught me years ago to do a good cleaning after each woodworking job. Also, to put your tool back where it belongs unless you are constantly using it. That stuck with me, and I never have to cleanup before working and always know where my tools are. Thanks.
Great work,Adam and great clean up.Thank you.
It's great that you admit mistakes. We all do it but some like to pretend it doesn't happen.
The smaller mistakes, he readily admits to it, but on some of the larger ones, he pretends it never happened. The latest being the tapped hole positions on the vice body being half an inch out, which he ignored for many videos until he was put in a cul de sac and was forced to admit to it. Putting in the wrong material for the bushing ( based on a mix up on the material specs ) as the Kubota flywheel pilot bushing was another that comes to mind.
Good work , thanks for sharing !!
love seeing the mass produced stuff and the occasiona crash, keep up the great work
After watching the program spot drill then skip back to the first i was like ugh, but then you explained how the order could be more efficient. Then you announced the time it took and i was like well that's pretty quick for just dropping them in there and hitting start. Then I was thinkin about what your father and grandad would think of the cnc, my guess is they'd think it was super cool! and be proud. Thanks for the videos!
Vary educational, including the cleaning, thanks abom79
Yes. I also found the cleaning tutorial interesting, even though I will probably never even see a CNC mill in real life.
That CNC made short work of the run. Imagine what it would save on 1000 pieces!
Interesting to see the job develop.
Adam, check out the last tab on the drilling operation in fusion. It should have options for the peck drilling and options for the retraction.
I love learning with you ❤
Great job. Thank you 😊
Awesome videos!
One thing I have found useful is whenever I change what axis I am jogging, I will move the hand wheel a few clicks in the positive direction and then back a few ti where it was in the negative direction. It doesnt move much so if you have any clearance you wont hit anything and it allows me to verify that I have the correct axis selected. It has saved me multiple times before.
It looks like you're getting pretty good with your tooling and your machine
You learn more from mistakes than from flawless work.
Honestly, I still prefer the one-off resto-repair projects done on old-school machines. Production runs/CNC just seems like "work" and takes the fun out of what you love doing. I will still watch it anyway :)
Nice to see you working on some slightly larger production job!!!
Thanks for sharing 👍
I think I could watch Adam clean down machines all day long. My own, less so!
Good job ❤❤❤
that's awesome dude! it is really amazing to see how you continue to grow in your capabilities
Nice job man
Adam, I like to hum to myself from the Wizard of Oz, "If I only had a brain....."
MULTIPLE TIMES
until I stop doing dumb things....
It hasn't yet helped, but it sounds nice in my head....
It will be a big day for the channel the first time you do a job like this without calling Kevin for a lifeline. Looking forward to it!
For the most part, I’m just a safety net now. I pretty much watched him while he drew and programmed this one himself.
@@MechanicalAdvantageThanks for the clarification.
And when your customer wants more of the same 6 months down the road you already have the program written. Repeatable identically consistent result.
Adam
Correct my numbets but i see the mill cutting metal for 90% of the time and moving for 10% so swrating over the order of the operations doesnt seem like a big deal.
If you wetr doing 10000 it might.
I really enjoyvlooking and learning from your videos.
.
❤ Abom I hope you will be doing more cnc work on a regular basis so you'll get more comfortable with programming.
Anyone who has been working for years in a machine shop knows that mistakes happen.
Sometimes a simple one could cause death.
Enjoyed the show and keep em coming. Good luck with your adventures with CNC.
He did fine and was in ZERO danger. Everything went smoothly. I'm not sure what you are on about.
@@silasmarner7586 I know he was in no danger with the ruby but it could have been a bigger tool. He showed us the working operation with the door open while drilling 2 of the last pieces.
But Adam has been a machinist for years now and I am sure he's had his share of mistakes and learned from them.
I am a old tool and die maker and I also was a machinist for the Air Force and I have made mistakes and some were $$costly but I still have all of my fingers and my eyes.
very nice
no matter how long the video is Adam, watching chips from drilling
is always satisfying........[Corburundum Illigetimi] 'don't let the basterds in the comment sdrag you down]
Excellent. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing CNC machine❤
You could refine it by drilling the last hole you spotted first instead of moving the table
drilling holes, this channel just keeps getting better and better
I use to use a small funnel attached to the end of air nozzle and it keeps most of the cooliant and chips away from you also filled all the😊 holes in the table and used vacuum to help clean up chips from my experience on CNC I also broke quite a few probe tips it’s easy to do
The touch screen scans for input around two times per second. Holding each key press for about half a second ensures your press overlaps one of those scans and registering. Tapping too quickly risks landing between scans and being missed.
Great job, and no strong arming 🎉🎉. Only way to avoid breaking tools is never do anything. Only way to break few fewer is by working and doing.
Do you work at a scrap yard?
I believe you can get those ruby tipped probes for under $30 apiece.
Repeatability - with less work for the operator - value in CNC machines.
Order/path - for small runs - who cares? The cost in time is minimal relative to setup, so it doesn't cost much, and you get the job done & get paid. For longer runs, the (in)efficiencies add up, so optimizing the path would pay off. You'll certainly get it soon enough.
Frankly, I'm just glad I get to see the work done. I didn't get to watch my Dad work when I was younger. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Even if it was larger amount of parts, the order of the holes is not the problem here, with proper drill you would delete the spot drill op completely and drill holes under 5 seconds per hole. Even faster but that machine probably doesn't have enough power.
Adam: Remember, diamonds are forever, rubies are not...
Use a longer rod in the right hand stop to locate both parts. Knowing the length of the rod allows a repeat offset setup easier. I would be tempted to hold two in each vise.
if ya gotta manually deburr, is a 5-axis good for the total machining performed? able to rotate the workpiece?
Adam,
Are you setting up a system for cataloging parts and programs for future use? For instance, do you save a copy of the program for the 1018 CRS and again for the mild steel?
It would seem that saving a copy of say the routine for spotting and drilling holes would streamline your programming. The same for parts and materials.
Bob
That old man drizzle on the coolant!! LOL!
Not an application here but on you more complicated pieces, consider paraffin blocks the size of your blanksto do a first run. I started this using the old punch tape years ago and it has saved a lot of tooling. And you can reuse it.
I really miss your old school machining rather then watching you working on machines that few of us can afford.
There are lots of CNC mills that you can afford. Things have changed and you CNC milling is far more obtainable than many think it is.
keep up with the time MIKE MATE, DONT GET LEFT BEHIND
I haven't used a HSS tool in years. In the CNC world, I can't think of a scenario where they would be anything other than an 'emergency' tool.
At the end of the day, catbide is easily the lowest cost option.
Until you have to take your Catbide to the vet!
@@scottpecora371 True.
Hey Adam...just a tip... you should retract z at the end of program to move tool out of your way....just friendly advice.
Note to milltronic. in jogging if the user select an axis, make the button green or smt. in the user interface. this could avoid a problem Abom had.
Don't forget to add in the mill clean up in your machine time as well.
I do not now anything about CNC but i noticed that your centering drill goes from left to right as 1-2 on g54 and 3-4 on g 55 you could copy this program line for the drill ?
I noticed that too. But instead of directly copying that program line for the drill (running it left to right), reverse it (run it right to left).
Some good projects would be covers for the vice screws to keep chips out and some double V blocks to put multiple pieces in each vice.
You sure have an appetite for learning. Challenging yourself every day is increasing your knowledge for certain. I recall a Head Gang Drill machines, curious if CNC has something similar? Multiple spindles going every which way! Thanks for sharing, I appreciate your videos.
Hi Adam I was taught many years ago it was always manual programming that you start where you finished to cut down on machine movements great content thanks mark
Leave the tool in the Spindle while u blowing the chips aways cuz when u only have 1 chip in the Spindle you´ll never be happy again.
Overall it was a nice Video thx for the upload.
Greetings from Germany :D
Thanks Adam very interesting project. Could you program the machine to do some of the clean up sweeping. Replace the drill with a brush.
Use a chip fan for the final tool.
This is really impressive! You're learning very fast and you're applying your new skills to everyday jobs. We don't all get to machine rocket nozzles. Sorry about breaking the ruby on your Renishaw Probe. I really can't give you specific advice, but I have seen situations where a program would make a probe safely "hunt" for a surface. It was impressively fast and could be made super accurate. I would presume that you can get programs like this either for free or for very little. If you have it loaded along with your normal program, you can call it whenever you want to find a critical surface. Beats buying new probe points.
Can you put a probe in your tool carousel? Then you could always have it handy. For example, you could double-check the diameter of the work piece.
I find it interesting that Adam just bangs the big drill straight in. I normally start off with a smaller drill and then widen it out. Is there a rule of thumb as to the biggest drill that you can plunge right into mild steel? I always imagine the chisel point getting trashed.
Excelente
Adam you have the sequence right on the spotting drill, can't copy that to the 3/4 drill?.
The order was my fault. I had him program it like it would be a single piece. After the spot drill op that ended on the right hole, I had him select that same right hole for the 3/4” drill. I didn’t think about what would happens when we duplicated setup for G55. Had I had him start drilling the left hole instead, it would have returned to the left hole of the first part and then worked across in order to the second part.
Random comment for the day but im happy to say i found a greenfield no 6 tap wrench today at an antiques outlet for $20 a few dings in it but ill clean it up and put it back to work
Thanks for the video! Enjoy watching you learn more and more about this skill I don't have at all. A terminology question for commenters who know more than me:
I can imagine that this machine would be able to nicely do half of the deburring within the drilling program, by programming a milling cutter to trace out the potato-chip-shaped intersection of the stock and the bore. I assume that to also chamfer the exit holes with this machine, one would need to use different work holding, like an indexing head, manually rotate the stock 180 degrees, and run a chamfering-only program on the back side.
But some machines can rotate the part 180 degrees and take care of the back within a single program. For example, the machine that Peter at Edge Precision uses does this kind of thing and much more.
How do you describe Adam's kind of machine that can't rotate the part, and Peter's fancier kind of machine that can?
14:03 .. Check with the manufacture, there should be a specific command in the program to blow chips off at the end of the cycle. Even if the air is not plumbed, the air relay output, and command should be (or might be) available.
Maybe even check the back panel see if you can find an empty relay output, with and "AIR" label above it???
I wonder if there are physical/tactile options for mission-critical controls like the spindle movement axis switch. I can easily imagine that a touchscreen UI may provoke occasional costly mistakes, similar to this one with the touch probe.
I would hate a touch screen CNC!
Do you charge per hour or flat rate per job? I imagine repeat customers you give them a deal? Love the channel!
Just an fyi for the issues with the probe. You can use any old edge finder the same way you use the probe execpt you do the inputs manualy. For example to finder the center on your part you would touch off on one side zero , move to the other side and touch off, then divide the number by 2 and go manually jog to that position. You can do the adjustment for the radius but its not neccesary for center finding. Great for when someone inevitablely breaks the probe.
When I use the edge finder, I touch 1 side and hit 0, then touch the other and move G90 G54 G0 X[100./2], Where 100 is the number on the other side of zero
@skydimm7325 that also works, but it's a bit complicated for someone starting out
it would be really simple to fix, just change G55 and G54 order...then it would cut right to left.
Beautifully presented. Adam, I'm not a machininst but have often over-looked my designs being machined alongsidethose who are. I don't remember ever seeing the ruby-tipped probe being used so aggressively (you can even see the camera shake here). Are you sure that this is the method you were taught? Everytime I've watched a part being located, you can barely see the tip move once its within a gnats cock of the part.
I like it. After the fact but, cut your manual deburr time in half by including a deburr cycle with the same spot drill tool at the end. Then same tool to spot drill with the new blanks beginning next cycle. 👌
Holy Smokes, that is a lot of chips and holes.....
You should change to your spot drill at the end of the cycle so it can be changing tools while you are loading your next part. Thats what I do.
Your spindle mounted camera... are you getting audio from a mic on your shirt collar or somewhere else that's outside the machine? It's kind of eerie to hear the coolant splashing around being louder than the drilling itself. It's almost like a soothing fall-asleep rain soundtrack or something. Is it like that in person?
Something like a Sandvik CoroDrill 880 would make you a lot of money on a job like this. No need to spot and 1 shot straight through and done. Then you could follow it up with a EZBurr tool to deburr for you leaving you to just wipe down the parts after each run. To make it more time efficient you could program to drill left to right for the first tool, then right to left to minimize movement.
He's got like 10 bars to drill, thats not many to justify buying a new drill
Adam, I notice the spot drill is in a linear order. Maybe compare the code between the spot and the 3/4" drill to spot the difference.
You should get a Sure Shot reusable canister you charge with compressed air and refill with bulk solution and it saves you money in the long run,Amazon or Harbor Fright ,awesome tool 🔧
I wonder why the need for ruby? Would not a suitable size ball bearing be just as good?
I think steel ball bearing wears out pretty "fast" compared to ruby one.
@@ikocheratcr If this steel ball bearing is going to wear then you will need about 1000 years for it to do so I would think. In a car wheel bearing the things are spinning like mad an do 100,000 miles with ease?
@@JohnSmith-vi5pzTell the Renishaw R&D team you know what’s better, I’m sure they’d appreciate your input.
Ruby is temperature stable.Metal can change dimensionally with ambient temperature
@@jamesdavis8021 I looked this up out of curiosity. Ruby (same mineral as sapphire) has a coefficient of thermal expansion of 5.3 μK^-1, steel is 11-13 μK^-1, and tungsten carbide is 5.5 μK^-1. Offhand, dimensional stability with temperature, while better for ruby, doesn't seem to be a slam-dunk reason. I do suspect that makers of probes like this would want to work with something harder and more wear resistant than steel. But it's not obvious why you'd use ruby/sapphire instead of, say, carbide. Maybe for the bling factor 😂
Adam, is that a Stevens(or who ever) sub plate or did that come with the machine? thanks' for the video
Probably a saunders fixture plate
Adam you will get it in CNC, I have no doubt about that. Sorry for your probe. Is a Hymer probe no option ?
Totally unrelated. But what do you have on the wrist here? I recently became interested in watchmaking, so I'm always interested when I see folks wearing watches.
Still love your tips for being a good machinist video, or a good employee. Probably a couple years old by now, but some really great principles I learned the hard way.
I was wondering just the same thing a video or two back, tried to get a look at it by stopping the video but cant read the make. I recall a long while back he actually mentioned his watch but its been so long ago I dont remember what it was - I even tried various ways of searching google for the video but that was a long shot. For some reason I remember the name "Victorinox" or similar comes to mind, but that means nothing as my mind is old and confused at 65 lol
I'm hoping to get started on a modern version of a 1890'S to 1910'S engine. Not a replica or remake , more of a modern material redesign kinda like a replica without measuring anything. It's going to be fairly large compared to modern engines of equal power. I do hope to make it more efficient. I'm thinking opposed twin cylinders with common big block GM or Chrysler bore so rings will be available , one less thing to make. And build the crank from hollow bar roughly 3" turned to a common diesel engine crank main bearing for rods and mains. Use a big block Chevy oil pump and valves in the heads.with the rest of the crank made from possibly cast steel or flat bar atleast 1/2" thick
The crank case made from either a casting or the same flat bar. With 1/8" and 1/4" plate. Possibly searching the salvage yard for components like main bearing caps and bolts , old pistons to cast a new set with, I would really like to cast the crank case from aluminum also casting the cylinders from old aluminum heads and other parts previously cast. Make cam lobes from tool steel, to be pressed on a shaft to be keyed and possibly spot welded. I'm hoping to use a common timing chains, with a cam for intake and exhaust. To allow the tensioners to adjust cam timing adjusting the timing 16°-32° and change the love separation angle . Have a setting for gas and one for oil or diesel. I hope for it to be a multiple fuel engine. A oil burner and gasoline, by simply changeling the spark plug to heat plug. And replace a 2" pipe with cap in the head that lowers the compression from roughly 20:1 to 9:1 the pipe is replaced with a plug that also hold a injector. And remove the carb to convert from gas to diesel . I'm also thinking about trying a hot oil carburetor. That uses a small. Container with a valve to s port to the intake runner. With a heat source and oil injector, the oil heated to nearly 1000°F. In a near vacuum to prevent burning similar to the old hot bulb diesel engines. Only being ignited by spark. The heat source could be a propane torch or glow plug and the exhaust once up to normal running temperature. With the amount of oil spray set by throttle. Hopefully it can produce atleast 10-15 hp per cylinder. With peak power around 1800-2400:rpm ,with a oh crap rpm of around 3400, because a 6"-8" stroke is no joke! 6" stroke will total 150 cid engine, 75ci per cylinder, and 8" is 100.5cid per, 201 cid total, and possibly push the rpm. Down to 2400 rpm. So to keep the HP and rpm up to a respectable level 6-6.625" stroke max to allow roughly 2800 rpm and cast bolt on flywheels with 1" and 2" shafts to allow pulleys to be mounted. The flywheels being about 24" and 100lbs for the outer hoop only the spokes and hub doubling the weight. With a 8" pulley on the back side to allow a jackshaft output running at 2-3 times crank speed to allow it to run a generator that requires 3600 rpm input. And possibly design. A injection system that can allow gas to be direct injected just before the ignition time . Then keep the diesel compression. And delay the spark until about 20° after TDC. With peak cylinder pressure being on the crank while having the most advantage. The TQ and HP should greatly increase. If in a car it should be a major difference in power you could feel the effiency greatly increased. Problem is. Getting the compression high enough with going too high and getting the crank in the proper position after TDC. Within 25% of the down stroke, probably ,5-10% lower than normal. Sorry to ramble but having you mill the parts would be awesome!