👉 If you enjoyed this video, check out my online course 'Roadmap to Riffian' for a step-by-step guide to unleashing your inner bass BEAST! 🦍 bit.ly/riffian
2:05 Regarding the nut height: By fretting the first fret the nut height is no longer at play here. What You do is looking for a little neck relief near the nut. I learned to fret the third fret or use a capo and then look at the first fret. This way the strings have contact with the nut and the second fret. Tgere should be just a very small gap above the first fret. If the gap is too high, the intonation of the lower frets will not be correct because the strings are pushed down a little more than calculated. I had this exact problem on my first cheap electric guitar. I just recently fixed it to use it as a back up.
Yeah @DoSeOst is right man. Best trick is to sand a pencil down so it’s half a pencil long ways and use the flat sanded side to draw a line onto the nut using the 1st fret. Best to sneak up on it and stop when it feels good rather than just aiming for the line.
The .3mm feeler could be replaced for a 12 thou. of an inch if you're stuck with a set of imperial gauges! Another important thing to remember... Lowering your saddle on the bridge is fine even at full tension, but avoid raising it. It places pressure on the threads and can lead to stripping. De-tune, adjust and tune up.
Im a guitar player and i just borrowed my brother's bass to fill out some mixes. I couldn't believe how terrible it sounded. It was all out of whack. I knew it would be similar to setting up a guitar, which i can do just fine. So thanks for the tips and string height distances. It was a big help. Now it sounds great. I should charge him for the work. 😂
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Oh man they sound great! Real crisp and punchy. I like being able to clearly hear bass guitar in a song or mix. Not to much but I don't want to struggle trying to hear it either. Prior to using his bass I was pitch shifting my Eclipse down an octave. It KIND OF works. The more aggressive I would try to make it, the muddier the mix would end up. Anybody with an ear for hard rock and metal could tell it wasn't a real bass, and that it was just digitized tomfoolery. Lol. Not anymore. Now its authentic. Thanks for replying to my comment bro. And thanks again for the setup tips!!
Thanks mate ! You covered the steps in layman's terms that a lot of other videos failed to do. I appreciate the time spent on this vid and send All My Best ! Thanks again !
I'm a guitar player who bought his first bass ever so I could learn basic techniques - it was a ridiculously cheap Fender Squier red Precision (like just over $100). As one might expect, poor action, in fact the strings barely vibrate at all with capo on first fret. So I was seeking help. The Beholden To The Riff teacher seemed like such a nice human being, the main problem with the video is that on the first step, the bass he uses as a model has no problems so he just skips that level. It would have better to use a bass WITH that problem so we could see and hear how to fix it. This was also the case with the truss rod adjustment. That part of the operation was completely out of view so again one was left in the dark. Again, this is a shame as the teacher seemed so nice and friendly, but unfortunately the video was of relatively little value, although his use of a gauge feeler was helpful, although one wondered if a simple credit card would be enough to test the distance between string and fret (or even just listening until a buzz got lost). I found the test of looking down the neck for an upbow or downbow helpful, although in my case I could not tell visually if it was one or the other - the best indication of my downbow was simply the buzz. I suppose it would be logical to create a slight buzz and then you'd know the bass was well adjusted with just enough anti-clockwise turns to lose that buzz?
Thanks for checking out the vid and wish it could’ve been more helpful to you. If you followed the steps in the vid and your bass is still buzzy, you may have to take it to a luthier to diagnose the issue(s) 🤘
Thanks a lot, very clear explanation. Always a bit reluctant to do the setup of my basses by myself. After watching this video I feel confident. Greetings from the Netherlands
Your advice for adjusting the truss rod was amazing, as I had been doing small adjustments back and forth, but having a true way of measuring is awesome. My fret buzz is greatly reduced, with there only being some when I dig in, with none of it going through the amp!
I'm not sure if I understand step 2. If you are checking the nut height, why are you holding the string down at the first fret, thereby bypassing the nut altogether effectively removing it completely from the equation?
Great question!!! Here’s the thought behind the 1st fret capo: When the nut is too high, it makes playing on the first fret more difficult then it needs to be - when the nut is too low, you will get fret buzz when you play the first fret. Both of those issues require the first fret to be pressed down, so I let the capo do the work :) Thanks for checking out the video and I hope that helps🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff I would disagree: other issues notwithstanding, if a particular nut slot is too low, the symptom is fret buzz with that particular open string vibrating, but NOT when holding down the 1st fret - if holding the 1st fret cures the buzz, then that nut slot is lower than the 1st fret.
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Gonna have to disagree on this. The only way to determine if your nut slots are right is to put a feeler gauge under the string and the first fret. No capo. I have been taught that it should be 20 thousandths of an inch, give or take two thou.
@@BeholdenToTheRiff would you also say that if the nut is really really high, then fretting strings will make them sharp because of how far the string has to “bend” travel to reach the fret?
I'm going to try setting the truss rod with a feeler gauge now as I geuss this will give you a good starting point. If you don't have a feeler gauge you can do it the way I always have: Fret the first and last fret - if you can't play a note on the string between the frets loosen your truss rod until you can do this without the string choking on the frets... or conversely tighten to the point where you can still play a note without it choking.
Thanks for the video. I've been doing this by "feel", no rulers, capos etc, just the allen key for the truss rod. Risky stuff 🥸😁 I Drop Down Tune to ADGCF, so it's been tricky to set up. I kinda finally found a sweet spot, so I'm cool. My neck is a graphite neck. Greetings from Uganda 🇺🇬👊🏿🖤🤍
Great stuff presented here. Very easy to digest. I do all my own set-ups, but Always want to Learn-more. Note: always perform Intonation-adjustments, in "Playing position" and not with Guitar lying flat (on a work bench), as the Gravity will slightly Change the pitch. oNe LovE from NYC
I've been playing bass for 22 years and I've always been a little afraid to work on the truss rod...after watching your video I feel like I can do this! Thanks for such helpful tips and directions!
Awesome video. I’m really more confident in working on my bass now. My question for you is: what are the settings and measurements for a 5 string bass? Thank you
That makes sense. The nut essentially effects the first 5 frets, the truss rod effects the middle of the neck, and the bridge effects the higher frets. As long as your fretboard isn’t too out of whack you should be ok check the nut height at any point in the setup🤘
Hello. Awesome video.. what would cause rattle in the neck when I play high notes it's only around 19th to the 24th fret . I did adjust a quarter turn clock wise. Should I go back ..
Great question! Generally, truss rod adjustments are made in order to correct the “middle” of the fretboard, from around the 5th fret to around the 12th fret. Higher fret buzz is usually corrected by raising the action. If that doesn’t do the trick, you made need your frets leveled 🤘
Which 6in. Ruler or scale are you using. I need the proper ruler as what I find locally has a small gap before measurements start. Totally negating their use for string height.
I'm definitely using this video to double check my bass. I paid a guy $75 plus the cost of strings which he talked me into the most expensive set (which is fine because I do like them) but I get it back after about 2 weeks of very little communication from him and the frets are still buzzing, the string height is off. I think I paid the dude $125 to just put a set of strings on, when I could have done that!! Thanks!
Yeah man, waiting two weeks for a string change has become the standard. If you can find the right person, it can be worth the wait for the initial setup, but those folks are few and far between. Really hope the video helps!
@@BeholdenToTheRiff It absolutely can be worth the wait. I've been playing guitar for about 20 years and I'd get my guitars setup and could totally tell a difference when I got them back.
If you have nut height that is too low is that fixable by adjusting saddle? Or does this need taken in and have new nut installed? There is no space on Step 2. It is a cheap bass guitar I got for the grandkids to fiddle with but it buzzes really bad.
Generally, I advise nut adjustments to be left to the pros because once you start there is no turning back :) That being said, if the nut is too low you can remove it and add a shim to raise it a little. It doesn’t take much to make it raise enough to do the trick.
It’s a quick and easy way to check the nut height. My thought is that if you are new to setting up your instrument that it’s a good idea to leave the nut height adjustment to a luthier. Also, the nut can play a part in intonation and the first fret should be checked for correct pitch (more advanced setups)🤘
Great vid, I want to try a heavy gauge with a standard tuning, I want to try this: GHS Electric Bass 4 String Boomers Roundwound 34" Scale, .050 - .115, H3045, do you think I can get a low action on a neck with no issues just as old as 20 years -old, can I try it? Thanks a lot
Great question! It will work, but you may need to make a few adjustments - may need to file a bigger slot in the nut, but won’t know until you try it out🤘
Hey man absolutely love what you're doin! Saving up for a new bass so I can properly tune one down, but in the meantime, might I request some Kadavar (Black Sun) E-standard goodness? Keep groovin bud
Really nice clear instructional video. You measured the action at the 17th fret, does it matter if the bass has less than yours? I have 20, should I still use the 17th fret?
Your best bet is to measure where the neck meets the body. On most basses & guitars that’s the 17th fret, but on a shorter scale bass it may be around the 15th fret. Hope that helps🤘
Thanks man this helped me so much!!! I have looked other videos ass well about setting action but this got me the best results! I didnt know it would make playing so much easier with the right action.
Lower tunings kind of require the same steps as standard, save for the fact that you're going to need a fair bit of experimentation to find your perfect gauge of strings. That and maybe some widening of the slots.
thanks man, very well explained! And although my incompetence I still managed to fix this annoying buzz from the E string after about a week of watching your vid again and again :)
I just got my first bass ( entry level) - had no idea I had to do all this:((( I just tuned and tightened …. But apparently I have to find a shop- I don’t have any of those tools. Do I have to do this every time I want to play? Please say no 🙏.
Congrats on getting your first bass!!! Great question on how often a set up should be performed - good news, once or twice per year and you’re good to go🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff so the great news is I started practicing and within a couple of days I can see and feel the strings needing the “ set up”., which was probably the best way for me to understand the concept/. The strings are opened and stretched with a lot of slack near the pick ups at this point / so now someone can get to the official set up . I wanted to post so if anyone is a super beginner like myself they can also conceptualize by playing. Great stuff ! Ty
Thanks man! Are the measures the same with BEAD tuning? I really struggle setting up my bass that i purchased in standard tuning but restringed with BEAD strings ...
Great question! For the nut height measurement, fret the 3rd fret and measure the distance from the first fret to the string - use a feeler gauge to measure. Can also check by fretting the 3rd fret and tapping the string over the first fret. Should be a slight clicking sound when you tap. Hope this helps🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff I did some work on my new ibenez bass. I fiund that I can get rid of the buzz with the truss rod but then need to lower the action but I can only lower it so much before it causes buzz again. So action is low until about the 7th or 8th fret then its a little higher then I want but over all way better the it was as it was shipped to me. Intonation is easy but I find that using the tuner to do it does not work on the D and G stings. For that I need three hands to fret a bar cord above the 12th and then just use the screw driver to adjust until I hear it ringing out in tune. Any tips after what I have done so far?
Sounds like you're on the right track! For the tuner, if it has a "guitar" setting, give that a shot. If not, I think a new tuner is in order - intonation is super important to get dialed in. As for needing 3 hands, trade one or two of those hands for a capo on the 12th fret :) If you are capo-less, just go one string at a time, making small adjustments, checking the intonation until it's on🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Capo, that is what I did. When I would turn that screw on my jackson's intonation setting screw nothing was moving. I has to take the tension off the string to get it to move. Is that normal?
Meaure 0.3mm relief at the 9th fret, about half-way! Here it should be be max 0.3mm, compared to less gap by say fret 4 or 18. And ALWAYS re-tune before measuring!
Okay I'm in B standard when I started this video and my strings really theyre only one size up from standard size for E. Ideally I would put it in C or D standard what is keeping my bass so tight that I can't do C or D
dude quick question, when you are checking the nut height are pressing down on the first fret, surely at this point you are eliminating the nut out of the equation all together then buy fretting at the first fret?
Good question! By fretting at the 1st fret, you are able to check for any buzz in the first few frets. If you press the 1st fret and it’s buzzing, and the source seems to be from any of the first five frets, you may need a new nut. Checking the nut while playing open strings has a far less likelihood of producing any fret buzz and only gives you limited information. Pressing the 1st fret isn’t eliminating the nut from from the equation, it’s allowing the equation to be fully expressed🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff hmmm that still doesn't make sense perhaps I am missing something, I have never seen nut height measured this way, surely if you fret at the first fret you are reducing the height of the string to the first fret which makes the height of nut irrelevant? So when fretting at the first fret and strumming, If any buzzing occurs then it would signify either the neck is too straight or there is a high fret after the first fret. Even if you completely removed the nut and fretted on any fret the guitar would still be playable, apart from open strings. Same way when using a capo, it's like moving the position of the nut. By the way thought the rest of your the setup was excellent
@@TheGuitarModder Try fretting the first fret or throw on a capo and check out string height behind where you are fretting. There should be a gap between the neck and the nut. By lowering the nut height, you are reducing that gap. No gap, the strings would lay flat across the neck which equals buzz. This would best be demonstrated by actually removing the nut and seeing what happens. The nut essentially provides the point of tension from one side while the saddle provides the point of tension from the other side. Together, these two points keep the string off of the neck. The truss rod adjustment mainly effects the middle of the neck, while the nut height effects the first 5 or so frets🤘
Great video, thank you. I just bought a Kestral so seeing you work on yours is perfect. One question, you did not check or adjust the pickup height. Do you ever check that and if so what heights do you use?
Great question! I have found that each bass has it’s own sweet spot for the pickup height. Essentially, keep raising the pickups until your tone sounds muddy/distorted. Then, lower them a half-turn at a time until your tone is clear again🤘
Great question! For Drop B tuning you’ll need some thicker strings and may have to make a few slight adjustments, but it will get the job done 💪 For strings, I would try 120’s - 130’s. Hope this helps🤜🤛🤘
Step 2 (Nut Height) will only have to be done the first time you set up your bass and then if you change your normal string gauge - or if you notice string buzz happening in the first 5 frets. Also, the truss rod adjustment is more for the middle portion of the fretboard (frets 6-12). You could set up the truss rod perfectly and still have string noise from the first five frets, have to adjust the nut, which could cause buzz in the middle portion and have to adjust the truss rod again. Hope that makes sense :)
So cool that you like the videos and that you find them helpful!!!! I play bass in a band called Light Creates Shadow in Portland, OR. There is some older stuff floating around, but we are recording demos and hitting the studio in a month or two🤘
Man I got the Kestrel aswell. What my beautiful piece of instrument. Nice vid, cheers from Germany! I'd say action is a matter of personal preference, but I guess 2.4mm is a good place to start.
Heck yeah man! Love my Kestrel. Couldn’t agree more about action being a matter of preference - there are no rules and whatever you like best is best for you🤘Really cool that you like the video🙏
Changing nut height is the one step that I would recommend bringing your bass to a pro. However, if you want to give it a go, you can either file the slots or remove the nut and sand the bottom. A little goes a long way on this one 🤜🤛🤘
You should've showed the actual adjusting of the truss rod and you also failed to mention anything about pickup height, which could need adjustment with very low action setup.
Awesome video with some great tips that I will certainly use! Unless, you're like me and play Spectors and have to deal with the nightmare bridge from hell forged by Satan himself.
You cant check nut height if you are fretting the 1st fret. You take the nut out of the equation! Do the same test but down 1 fret, using the nut itself in place if your 1st fret finger.
I’m not an expert, but something feels off about your comments on checking the nut By putting a capo at fret 1, you are bypassing the nut entirely. I don’t see how what you are doing can test the nut when the capo makes it irrelevant
Great question! The capo method is more of a way to quickly check that the nut height isn’t causing any issues - buzzing on the first few frets if too low and intonation issues when too high. Since nut adjustments are rarely necessary, I figure a quick check is fine for the majority of DIY setups🤘
Your technique for checking nut height doesn't make any sense to me. By pressing down on the first fret, you are effectively removing the nut from the equation when you hold down again on the 4th fret and then tap the 2nd fret. All you are measuring is neck bow between the first and 4th frets.
@@BeholdenToTheRiff If your capo or finger is on the first fret you are bypassing the nut completely, the nut could be any height and you would get the exact same result because your capo is starting on the first fret… To check nut height you measure the distance between the strings and the first fret, no need to apply any capo anywhere. It’s just how far do you need to push the strings down to press the first fret.
Great question! If you keep the guitar facing the same way then you would turn it the opposite direction, but if your rotated the guitar 180 degrees then it would be like accessing the truss rod from the top 🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff So my nut is on the bottom. They say turn clockwise to tighten . So I face the fretboard from the bottom or look at it from the top down?
@@thebassmanfab Basically, imagine a clock is on the adjustment end truss rod. The hands of a working clock only go one way, no matter if the clock is upside down, facing away, or straight on - it’s always clockwise🤘
👉 If you enjoyed this video, check out my online course 'Roadmap to Riffian' for a step-by-step guide to unleashing your inner bass BEAST! 🦍 bit.ly/riffian
2:05 Regarding the nut height: By fretting the first fret the nut height is no longer at play here. What You do is looking for a little neck relief near the nut. I learned to fret the third fret or use a capo and then look at the first fret. This way the strings have contact with the nut and the second fret. Tgere should be just a very small gap above the first fret. If the gap is too high, the intonation of the lower frets will not be correct because the strings are pushed down a little more than calculated. I had this exact problem on my first cheap electric guitar. I just recently fixed it to use it as a back up.
Nice! So cool that you were able to get your guitar back in the game🤘
Yeah @DoSeOst is right man. Best trick is to sand a pencil down so it’s half a pencil long ways and use the flat sanded side to draw a line onto the nut using the 1st fret. Best to sneak up on it and stop when it feels good rather than just aiming for the line.
The .3mm feeler could be replaced for a 12 thou. of an inch if you're stuck with a set of imperial gauges!
Another important thing to remember... Lowering your saddle on the bridge is fine even at full tension, but avoid raising it. It places pressure on the threads and can lead to stripping. De-tune, adjust and tune up.
Heck yeah man!!! Thanks for checking out the video and for your insight - much appreciated 🤜🤛🤘
Let me know where you're watching from!!!!! Thank you so much for checking out the video 🙏
North Carolina
Scotland 🏴
@@elynch03 Oh heck yeah!!!! Say hi to the "pig" for me :) That pic made my day man
@@RavenCheeky Awesome man! Thanks for making it to the premier 🤘
New Hampshire
Im a guitar player and i just borrowed my brother's bass to fill out some mixes. I couldn't believe how terrible it sounded. It was all out of whack. I knew it would be similar to setting up a guitar, which i can do just fine. So thanks for the tips and string height distances. It was a big help. Now it sounds great. I should charge him for the work. 😂
Awesome!!! How do the mixes sound with some low end?
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Oh man they sound great! Real crisp and punchy. I like being able to clearly hear bass guitar in a song or mix. Not to much but I don't want to struggle trying to hear it either. Prior to using his bass I was pitch shifting my Eclipse down an octave. It KIND OF works. The more aggressive I would try to make it, the muddier the mix would end up. Anybody with an ear for hard rock and metal could tell it wasn't a real bass, and that it was just digitized tomfoolery. Lol. Not anymore. Now its authentic. Thanks for replying to my comment bro. And thanks again for the setup tips!!
You explain stuff in such simple terms. Great video again man. I feel bad I've not properly setup my bass in years.
I had zero clue for years man and went through tons of strings along the way. Let me know if you get any questions when you go for it 🤘
Thanks mate ! You covered the steps in layman's terms that a lot of other videos failed to do. I appreciate the time spent on this vid and send All My Best ! Thanks again !
Honored to have helped in any way🤘
I'm a guitar player who bought his first bass ever so I could learn basic techniques - it was a ridiculously cheap Fender Squier red Precision (like just over $100). As one might expect, poor action, in fact the strings barely vibrate at all with capo on first fret. So I was seeking help. The Beholden To The Riff teacher seemed like such a nice human being, the main problem with the video is that on the first step, the bass he uses as a model has no problems so he just skips that level. It would have better to use a bass WITH that problem so we could see and hear how to fix it. This was also the case with the truss rod adjustment. That part of the operation was completely out of view so again one was left in the dark. Again, this is a shame as the teacher seemed so nice and friendly, but unfortunately the video was of relatively little value, although his use of a gauge feeler was helpful, although one wondered if a simple credit card would be enough to test the distance between string and fret (or even just listening until a buzz got lost). I found the test of looking down the neck for an upbow or downbow helpful, although in my case I could not tell visually if it was one or the other - the best indication of my downbow was simply the buzz. I suppose it would be logical to create a slight buzz and then you'd know the bass was well adjusted with just enough anti-clockwise turns to lose that buzz?
Thanks for checking out the vid and wish it could’ve been more helpful to you. If you followed the steps in the vid and your bass is still buzzy, you may have to take it to a luthier to diagnose the issue(s) 🤘
Thanks a lot, very clear explanation. Always a bit reluctant to do the setup of my basses by myself. After watching this video I feel confident. Greetings from the Netherlands
Right on! Really glad the video helped 🤘
Your advice for adjusting the truss rod was amazing, as I had been doing small adjustments back and forth, but having a true way of measuring is awesome.
My fret buzz is greatly reduced, with there only being some when I dig in, with none of it going through the amp!
That’s awesome! Glad it helped🤘
Best video on this stuff on UA-cam. So easily explained and concise. Thanks mate.
Awesome!!! Glad you dig the video🤜🤛🤘
I actually just had to setup my new schecter bass because I was getting a lot of buzz on the first three frets, wish I had this video earlier!
Dang! How did it turn out?
I'm not sure if I understand step 2. If you are checking the nut height, why are you holding the string down at the first fret, thereby bypassing the nut altogether effectively removing it completely from the equation?
Great question!!! Here’s the thought behind the 1st fret capo: When the nut is too high, it makes playing on the first fret more difficult then it needs to be - when the nut is too low, you will get fret buzz when you play the first fret. Both of those issues require the first fret to be pressed down, so I let the capo do the work :) Thanks for checking out the video and I hope that helps🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff I would disagree: other issues notwithstanding, if a particular nut slot is too low, the symptom is fret buzz with that particular open string vibrating, but NOT when holding down the 1st fret - if holding the 1st fret cures the buzz, then that nut slot is lower than the 1st fret.
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Gonna have to disagree on this. The only way to determine if your nut slots are right is to put a feeler gauge under the string and the first fret. No capo. I have been taught that it should be 20 thousandths of an inch, give or take two thou.
@@BeholdenToTheRiff would you also say that if the nut is really really high, then fretting strings will make them sharp because of how far the string has to “bend” travel to reach the fret?
Fabulously concise guide. Thank you!
Awesome!!! Really glad it helped🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff It really did. I've went round all five of my basses and improved them!
I'm going to try setting the truss rod with a feeler gauge now as I geuss this will give you a good starting point. If you don't have a feeler gauge you can do it the way I always have: Fret the first and last fret - if you can't play a note on the string between the frets loosen your truss rod until you can do this without the string choking on the frets... or conversely tighten to the point where you can still play a note without it choking.
Right on! Definitely try out the feeler gauge, it will allow you to dial in the truss rod a little more accurately🤘
You're on fire lately. Another valuable video. Cheers!
Really glad you like the video!!!! Thanks for checking it out🤜🤛🤘
Best set up tutorial compared to other set up videos! Aloha from Hawaii.
You rule!!! I’m honored to have helped in any way🤘
Thanks for the video. I've been doing this by "feel", no rulers, capos etc, just the allen key for the truss rod. Risky stuff 🥸😁
I Drop Down Tune to ADGCF, so it's been tricky to set up. I kinda finally found a sweet spot, so I'm cool. My neck is a graphite neck.
Greetings from Uganda 🇺🇬👊🏿🖤🤍
Awesome!!! What string gauge are you using?
@@BeholdenToTheRiff I'm using .45 to .130 Double Ball End Strings for my Status Graphite Custom S2 Classic 5 Strings Headless.
Great stuff presented here. Very easy to digest. I do all my own set-ups, but Always want to Learn-more. Note: always perform Intonation-adjustments, in "Playing position" and not with Guitar lying flat (on a work bench), as the Gravity will slightly Change the pitch. oNe LovE from NYC
Right on!!!! Really glad you dig the video and completely agree on measuring/testing intonation while in playing position🤜🤛🤘
I've been playing bass for 22 years and I've always been a little afraid to work on the truss rod...after watching your video I feel like I can do this!
Thanks for such helpful tips and directions!
Great to hear! Small adjustments are key🤘
Awesome video. I’m really more confident in working on my bass now. My question for you is: what are the settings and measurements for a 5 string bass? Thank you
I have a 24 fret bass. Where should I measure the truss rod angle and saddle height?
Shouldn't the nut height be checked last, after all other adjustments have been made?
That makes sense. The nut essentially effects the first 5 frets, the truss rod effects the middle of the neck, and the bridge effects the higher frets. As long as your fretboard isn’t too out of whack you should be ok check the nut height at any point in the setup🤘
Hello. Awesome video.. what would cause rattle in the neck when I play high notes it's only around 19th to the 24th fret . I did adjust a quarter turn clock wise. Should I go back ..
Great question! Generally, truss rod adjustments are made in order to correct the “middle” of the fretboard, from around the 5th fret to around the 12th fret. Higher fret buzz is usually corrected by raising the action. If that doesn’t do the trick, you made need your frets leveled 🤘
Love this Chanel man I get the most tech wise and music wise thank you!!
That is awesome that you dig the channel!!! You RULE🤜🤛🤘
I,ve watched a few video,s for base set up, you have made it so easy to understand and follow.thanks .stay safe
That is so cool that the video helped!!! Thanks for checking out the channel🤜🤛🤘
Hey bro...its possible achieve 1mm string height without fret buzz?
Which 6in. Ruler or scale are you using. I need the proper ruler as what I find locally has a small gap before measurements start. Totally negating their use for string height.
Not sure which brand I’m using, but I ordered the toolkit for Stew Mac🤘
I'm definitely using this video to double check my bass. I paid a guy $75 plus the cost of strings which he talked me into the most expensive set (which is fine because I do like them) but I get it back after about 2 weeks of very little communication from him and the frets are still buzzing, the string height is off. I think I paid the dude $125 to just put a set of strings on, when I could have done that!! Thanks!
Yeah man, waiting two weeks for a string change has become the standard. If you can find the right person, it can be worth the wait for the initial setup, but those folks are few and far between. Really hope the video helps!
@@BeholdenToTheRiff It absolutely can be worth the wait. I've been playing guitar for about 20 years and I'd get my guitars setup and could totally tell a difference when I got them back.
Should i lower the bridge further if i rip out my frets?
Great question!!! I am not sure on this one, but it seem that the bridge could be lowered on a fretless 🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff thanks for your reply!
If you have nut height that is too low is that fixable by adjusting saddle? Or does this need taken in and have new nut installed? There is no space on Step 2. It is a cheap bass guitar I got for the grandkids to fiddle with but it buzzes really bad.
Generally, I advise nut adjustments to be left to the pros because once you start there is no turning back :) That being said, if the nut is too low you can remove it and add a shim to raise it a little. It doesn’t take much to make it raise enough to do the trick.
whats the point of pressing on the 1st fret when checking the nut height?
It’s a quick and easy way to check the nut height. My thought is that if you are new to setting up your instrument that it’s a good idea to leave the nut height adjustment to a luthier. Also, the nut can play a part in intonation and the first fret should be checked for correct pitch (more advanced setups)🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff from there how do you know if the nut is high or low? you cant see it because you're pressing on the 1st fret.
Great vid, I want to try a heavy gauge with a standard tuning, I want to try this: GHS Electric Bass 4 String Boomers Roundwound 34" Scale, .050 - .115, H3045, do you think I can get a low action on a neck with no issues just as old as 20 years -old, can I try it? Thanks a lot
Great question! It will work, but you may need to make a few adjustments - may need to file a bigger slot in the nut, but won’t know until you try it out🤘
Great rundown!
Awesome! Hope it helps🤘
Hey man absolutely love what you're doin! Saving up for a new bass so I can properly tune one down, but in the meantime, might I request some Kadavar (Black Sun) E-standard goodness? Keep groovin bud
Awesome!!! Thanks for checking out the channel and I will put Black Sun on the list of videos to be made🤜🤛🤘
How are you measuring strings heights down to one tenth millimeter (i.e. 2.2 mm, 2.3 mm, etc.)??
It can be a little tough to see them little lines on the measuring tool so I started taking pics of the measurement and zooming in to see 🤘
Awesome DIY content on this, thank you!!!
Honored to have helped in any way 🤜🤛🤘
What fret were you measuring for .3mm
I believe what the .3mm measurement is referring to is the truss rod adjustment on the E-String, taken at the 7th fret🤘
Yeah always good to know how to set it up and keep it in good condition, great video as always keep it up bro!
Thanks man🙏Appreciate you checking out the video🤜🤛🤘
Really nice clear instructional video. You measured the action at the 17th fret, does it matter if the bass has less than yours? I have 20, should I still use the 17th fret?
Your best bet is to measure where the neck meets the body. On most basses & guitars that’s the 17th fret, but on a shorter scale bass it may be around the 15th fret. Hope that helps🤘
Thanks man this helped me so much!!! I have looked other videos ass well about setting action but this got me the best results! I didnt know it would make playing so much easier with the right action.
That's so cool that the video helped you setup your bass!!! Great job on setting the action🤘
Great video hope u do lower tuning one s well in the future as well
Definitely - probably a couple weeks and I'll put the P Bass on the bench for a C Standard setup 🤘
Lower tunings kind of require the same steps as standard, save for the fact that you're going to need a fair bit of experimentation to find your perfect gauge of strings. That and maybe some widening of the slots.
So I have a gio soundgear bass and the action is either too low or too high, the truss rod feels like it’s jammed it won’t turn at all.
The truss rod can be pretty stubborn sometimes, but this sounds like a “bring it to a pro” situation 🤘
thanks man, very well explained! And although my incompetence I still managed to fix this annoying buzz from the E string after about a week of watching your vid again and again :)
Awesome!!! Really glad to hear that you fixed the buzz!!!
Explanation is great - I think even I could do this....Great job
Thank you!!! You definitely could do this🤘
Thanks! for c standard for example is 0.3 mm for truss rod adjustment and same mm strings heigt? Thanks again!
You may have to make small adjustments, but if you are using a heavier string gauge you should be good to go🤜🤛🤘
How important is it to start at step 1? Can I swork backward?
Skipping step 1 is completely fine and new strings aren’t required to set up your bass. The rest of the steps though, I would go in order🤘
for the action, its that 2.4mm from the bottom of the snare or centre.
Great question! It’s from the bottom of the string🤜🤛🤘
I just got my first bass ( entry level) - had no idea I had to do all this:((( I just tuned and tightened …. But apparently I have to find a shop- I don’t have any of those tools. Do I have to do this every time I want to play? Please say no 🙏.
Congrats on getting your first bass!!! Great question on how often a set up should be performed - good news, once or twice per year and you’re good to go🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff hallelujah and pass the ketchup. Ty !
@@BeholdenToTheRiff so the great news is I started practicing and within a couple of days I can see and feel the strings needing the “ set up”., which was probably the best way for me to understand the concept/. The strings are opened and stretched with a lot of slack near the pick ups at this point / so now someone can get to the official set up . I wanted to post so if anyone is a super beginner like myself they can also conceptualize by playing. Great stuff ! Ty
what if I don't have a ruler that measures millimeters?
Definitely suggest pickup up feeler gauges from your local music shop. Or you can measure in Imperial and use the conversion 1mm = .0394 inches🤘
Thanks man! Are the measures the same with BEAD tuning? I really struggle setting up my bass that i purchased in standard tuning but restringed with BEAD strings ...
The measurements will get you 95% of the way there. May just need to make a few minor adjustments🤜🤛🤘
how are you checking the nut height if your finger is fretting the first fret?
Great question! For the nut height measurement, fret the 3rd fret and measure the distance from the first fret to the string - use a feeler gauge to measure. Can also check by fretting the 3rd fret and tapping the string over the first fret. Should be a slight clicking sound when you tap. Hope this helps🤜🤛🤘
Regarding nut height, as soon as you fret the first fret, you take the nut completely out of equation....
Yep - the method I showed is more of a quick check and suggest that a professional should make the nut height adjustments 🤘
If the bass is otherwise fine will teeking the truss rod throw off all the other just fine ajustments?
Most likely, you will be fine. Truss rod adjustments generally only effect the amount of bow in the neck from around the 5th fret to the 12th fret🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff I did some work on my new ibenez bass. I fiund that I can get rid of the buzz with the truss rod but then need to lower the action but I can only lower it so much before it causes buzz again. So action is low until about the 7th or 8th fret then its a little higher then I want but over all way better the it was as it was shipped to me. Intonation is easy but I find that using the tuner to do it does not work on the D and G stings. For that I need three hands to fret a bar cord above the 12th and then just use the screw driver to adjust until I hear it ringing out in tune. Any tips after what I have done so far?
Sounds like you're on the right track!
For the tuner, if it has a "guitar" setting, give that a shot. If not, I think a new tuner is in order - intonation is super important to get dialed in.
As for needing 3 hands, trade one or two of those hands for a capo on the 12th fret :) If you are capo-less, just go one string at a time, making small adjustments, checking the intonation until it's on🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Capo, that is what I did. When I would turn that screw on my jackson's intonation setting screw nothing was moving. I has to take the tension off the string to get it to move. Is that normal?
Awesome video, thanks for the amazing tips. Impossible to find videos going through these kind of steps
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for checking out the channel🙏
best explainer ever. i like this
That’s awesome!!! Really glad you found it helpful 🤘
Meaure 0.3mm relief at the 9th fret, about half-way! Here it should be be max 0.3mm, compared to less gap by say fret 4 or 18. And ALWAYS re-tune before measuring!
Couldn’t agree more! Thanks for checking out the video 🤘
Okay I'm in B standard when I started this video and my strings really theyre only one size up from standard size for E. Ideally I would put it in C or D standard what is keeping my bass so tight that I can't do C or D
You should be able to tune a half-step up from B to C without any problem. Are the tuning pegs not turning?
Awesome vid dude!!! Thank you for all you do
Heck yeah!!! THANK YOU 🙏
Love the PDF that comes with this, thanks man!
Awesome!!!! Thanks for checking out the video and really glad it helped🤜🤛🤘
dude quick question, when you are checking the nut height are pressing down on the first fret, surely at this point you are eliminating the nut out of the equation all together then buy fretting at the first fret?
Good question! By fretting at the 1st fret, you are able to check for any buzz in the first few frets. If you press the 1st fret and it’s buzzing, and the source seems to be from any of the first five frets, you may need a new nut. Checking the nut while playing open strings has a far less likelihood of producing any fret buzz and only gives you limited information. Pressing the 1st fret isn’t eliminating the nut from from the equation, it’s allowing the equation to be fully expressed🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff hmmm that still doesn't make sense perhaps I am missing something, I have never seen nut height measured this way, surely if you fret at the first fret you are reducing the height of the string to the first fret which makes the height of nut irrelevant? So when fretting at the first fret and strumming, If any buzzing occurs then it would signify either the neck is too straight or there is a high fret after the first fret. Even if you completely removed the nut and fretted on any fret the guitar would still be playable, apart from open strings. Same way when using a capo, it's like moving the position of the nut. By the way thought the rest of your the setup was excellent
@@TheGuitarModder Try fretting the first fret or throw on a capo and check out string height behind where you are fretting. There should be a gap between the neck and the nut. By lowering the nut height, you are reducing that gap. No gap, the strings would lay flat across the neck which equals buzz. This would best be demonstrated by actually removing the nut and seeing what happens. The nut essentially provides the point of tension from one side while the saddle provides the point of tension from the other side. Together, these two points keep the string off of the neck. The truss rod adjustment mainly effects the middle of the neck, while the nut height effects the first 5 or so frets🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff hmmm you may be on to something here. :-D
Another very nice video! Thank you so much!!
Awesome!!!! Really glad you dig the video🤜🤛🤜
Thanx for a really usefull video! Looking forward to checking out a tutorial for low tunings
Heck yeah!!! Thanks for checking out the video🙏C-Standard tuning with setup coming soon🤜🤛🤘
Thanks a lot.
Awesome! Honored to have helped in any way🤘
Great video, thank you. I just bought a Kestral so seeing you work on yours is perfect. One question, you did not check or adjust the pickup height. Do you ever check that and if so what heights do you use?
Great question! I have found that each bass has it’s own sweet spot for the pickup height. Essentially, keep raising the pickups until your tone sounds muddy/distorted. Then, lower them a half-turn at a time until your tone is clear again🤘
Where did you buy your set up kit ?
Thanks for checking out the video! Here’s a link to the kit I’m using: amzn.to/30Rpc1W 🤘
ur so awesome thank u. also subbed bc i have same taste in music and alot of bass teachers on youtube dont do rock and roll genre
Thank you! Honored to have helped in any way🙏
thanks, helped me a lot setting up my bass correctly. 🤘☹👍
That’s awesome!!! Honored to have helped in any way🤘
Would this working for Drop B tuning?
Great question! For Drop B tuning you’ll need some thicker strings and may have to make a few slight adjustments, but it will get the job done 💪 For strings, I would try 120’s - 130’s. Hope this helps🤜🤛🤘
HUGE thank you for putting this together :) QQ: Shouldn't we do step 3 (truss) before 2 (string height)?
Step 2 (Nut Height) will only have to be done the first time you set up your bass and then if you change your normal string gauge - or if you notice string buzz happening in the first 5 frets. Also, the truss rod adjustment is more for the middle portion of the fretboard (frets 6-12). You could set up the truss rod perfectly and still have string noise from the first five frets, have to adjust the nut, which could cause buzz in the middle portion and have to adjust the truss rod again. Hope that makes sense :)
@@BeholdenToTheRiff It does make sense. Thank you :)
Love you tutorial vids and this is a huge help for a semi beginner player. Do you have a band? If so, I'd love to check out your stuff.
So cool that you like the videos and that you find them helpful!!!! I play bass in a band called Light Creates Shadow in Portland, OR. There is some older stuff floating around, but we are recording demos and hitting the studio in a month or two🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff Awesome
Man I got the Kestrel aswell. What my beautiful piece of instrument. Nice vid, cheers from Germany!
I'd say action is a matter of personal preference, but I guess 2.4mm is a good place to start.
Heck yeah man! Love my Kestrel. Couldn’t agree more about action being a matter of preference - there are no rules and whatever you like best is best for you🤘Really cool that you like the video🙏
For step number 2 checking the nut height. yours was fine but mine isn't and you didn't tell me how to fix it :s
mine's too low. I think it needs replacing
actually it might be all right lol
Changing nut height is the one step that I would recommend bringing your bass to a pro. However, if you want to give it a go, you can either file the slots or remove the nut and sand the bottom. A little goes a long way on this one 🤜🤛🤘
Brilliant
Awesome!!! I hope it helps🤘
thank you so much.. 👍
Awesome! Glad you dig the video🤘
You should've showed the actual adjusting of the truss rod and you also failed to mention anything about pickup height, which could need adjustment with very low action setup.
Thanks for checking out the video🤘
Thank you so much - extremely helpful 👍🏆
Glad it helped! Thanks for checking out the channel🤘
Nice shirt!!
Heck yeah!!! Love me some Mastodon🤜🤛🤘
Mastodon!!! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Heck yeah!! Will be working on an “Iron Tusk” vid soon🤘
Awesome video with some great tips that I will certainly use! Unless, you're like me and play Spectors and have to deal with the nightmare bridge from hell forged by Satan himself.
Dude - definitely been there. Haven’t played Spector, but will never in a million lifetimes get another Floyd Rose🤜🤛🤘
You cant check nut height if you are fretting the 1st fret. You take the nut out of the equation! Do the same test but down 1 fret, using the nut itself in place if your 1st fret finger.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll try it out next time I set up an axe🤜🤛🤘
Is this Roddy Piper? Well done video here
Hahahaha 🤣Awesome!!! I came here to SLAY riffs & chew bubblegum, and I’m all outta bubblegum 💪🤘
thanks for this brilliant information.. keep rockin bassist out there. add me to this group cheers and take care man
Awesome!!! So cool that you found the video helpful🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff for sure.. brilliant info for bassist all over the world. cheers
I dont have no oil laying around >_
No worries! Even just a wipe down works. I do suggest putting Murphy’s oil on your shopping list though - waaaaaay cheaper than “guitar” polish 🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff I bought some strings I will surely try getting this oil before trying to change to the new strings :).
Awesome man! Let me know if you get any questions 🤜🤛🤘
Heck yes!!!!
So cool that you like the video🤜🤛🤘
How in the world are you seeing 2.2 or 2.4 mm on your ruler? Seriously point .2 of a millimeter??
I know right?! Check out guitar repair kits or maintenance kits - they have rulers and “feeler gauges” which help a ton🤘
Thx for this vid. My bass sounds much better. ;-)
That’s Awesome!!! Thanks for checking out the video🤜🤛🤘
you have the correct concepts in mind, but for the most part you still don't have a clue how to correctly apply them
Thanks for checking out the video🤘
Your not kidding about waiting 2 weeks and 80 bucks! 🤦♂️
Yeah man - it’s a good idea to take in a new bass and get an initial set up, but might as well take care of it yourself after that 🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff exactly!!! I just did that exact thing
Setting up a bass is like 3000 times more annoying than setting up a guitar. The fact I drop tune doesn’t make it any more fun 🥲
Anything beats setting up a Floyd Rose locking system🤜🤛🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff absolutely I have a guitar with that and it sucks 😅
I’m not an expert, but something feels off about your comments on checking the nut
By putting a capo at fret 1, you are bypassing the nut entirely. I don’t see how what you are doing can test the nut when the capo makes it irrelevant
Great question! The capo method is more of a way to quickly check that the nut height isn’t causing any issues - buzzing on the first few frets if too low and intonation issues when too high. Since nut adjustments are rarely necessary, I figure a quick check is fine for the majority of DIY setups🤘
Your technique for checking nut height doesn't make any sense to me. By pressing down on the first fret, you are effectively removing the nut from the equation when you hold down again on the 4th fret and then tap the 2nd fret. All you are measuring is neck bow between the first and 4th frets.
Testing your relief at the first few Frets has absolutely nothing to do with your nut 🤦♂️
Really? This was the method that a local luthier showed me. I’m open for suggestions :) How would you go about checking the nut height?
@@BeholdenToTheRiff If your capo or finger is on the first fret you are bypassing the nut completely, the nut could be any height and you would get the exact same result because your capo is starting on the first fret…
To check nut height you measure the distance between the strings and the first fret, no need to apply any capo anywhere. It’s just how far do you need to push the strings down to press the first fret.
step 1 failed, dont have $50 for new strings😂
I hear ya!
If the truss nut is at the bottom, then the tightening is turned the opposite way compared to being on top?
Great question! If you keep the guitar facing the same way then you would turn it the opposite direction, but if your rotated the guitar 180 degrees then it would be like accessing the truss rod from the top 🤘
@@BeholdenToTheRiff So my nut is on the bottom. They say turn clockwise to tighten . So I face the fretboard from the bottom or look at it from the top down?
@@thebassmanfab Basically, imagine a clock is on the adjustment end truss rod. The hands of a working clock only go one way, no matter if the clock is upside down, facing away, or straight on - it’s always clockwise🤘