It almost reminds me of working with my dad. I'm the teacher now. The more I can learn and teach the more I can understand. Your work is overwhelmingly useful. It's hard to come up with better words. You are helping all of us be better and safer than ever. Hard hats off to you.
This is a great "infield" knot. I love the fact that you can just pull on the working end and the whole thing disappears! great job on editing and reiterating.
Very useful version of the truckers hitch. The example of which part of the bite you passed around took a few re-watchings to sort out since your hands were off screen most of the time.
Nice! I like the format of using previously uploaded knot tying footage interspersed with ground work. It really solidifies their usefulness in real world scenarios.
❤️ beautiful concept! A “no-brainer” to those that already know it, and ingenious to those whom never seen it. Invaluable information. I love UA-cam for these purposes.
That is indeed the CARGO hitch I remember, Truck drivers are known to use it but it is used in many industries and at sea, if it is employed correctly.
Great video that's the way I was shown how to do a truckers hitch much better than other one's on you tube no threading ends through bite's tie & untie mid rope
The English trucker's hitch I learned is completely different from they way you tied it although it is still maintains an easy way to untie the knot . The one I learned was basically a sheepshank to create the loop. I'd be more inclined to call yours an English trucker's hitch and mine a sheepshank hitch. Guess the only "problem" with the way you tie the English trucker's hitch is that you have to use a carabiner/shackle/etc. But then again with every knot or hitch there is pros and cons. Personally I use what we call a "coonass come-a-long" a lot in my job (offshore commercial diver working out of Louisiana, thus coonass) . Basically it's a loop created with an overhand knot and then works just like a regular trucker's hitch. We use 1/2" poly so when it comes to tying knots that can't be untied easily, we usually don't care cause our time costs more than cheap poly. With that being said, I have ran into situations where we were low on rope and had to conserve whatever rope we had to get the job done. That's partially the reason why I like watching arborists videos. Because you guys use expensive rope, you guys always use knots that are easy to untie. Just learning your go-to knots has saved lots of time in my job when resupply was hard to get in a timely manner.
Great version of the trucker's hitch. I'm going to try this the next chance I get. Got a question though: Doesn't two reverses (one through the carabiner and one through the trucker's hitch knot) give you a 2/1 mechanical advantage, not a 3/1?
It's a poor man's version of a z-rig, which is a basic 3:1 setup. Of course because of all the friction it's not even close to 3:1, but you would be surprised how much of a pull you can get with it!... - Patrick
Thanks for your great videos, they really help a lot!! Are you gonna make a video about an easy setup for tentioning up a speedline? I think the English Truckers hitch may be a little inefficient for that purpose.
This is great! Another great pulling power video. I'm a tree rigging noob with a little knowledge of felling so bear with my question. I noticed you started a conventional cut then finally a Pie cut. My question is did you intend to do that or was it just a sub-conscience choice to progress the cut that much? I do realize the tree is small but I'm curious how much if any thought was put into that vs your rigging which you are obviously a professional at and great at communicating your plan to James/the camera.
I liked the way everything looked. I didn't get a real good sense of how it was tied. It went in andout out of veiw. I use the regular truckers hitch a lot and I tie mine slippery with a figure eight knot but it still can tighten up and not want come undone. The english version doesn't seem to ever tighten up that way. I'll keep watching it and try to figure it out maybe take another look yourself. Great knot
I love this version (I'm English so love the name but I must admit I've never run into this version before and have been using the 'standard' trucker's hitch for yrs... no longer as I'm a convert!) My one question is about how you secured the line to the base of the tree at 6:08 as that looked amazing and I'm sure just as helpful to learn from. Thanks Patrick Regards
In the UK this knot is knowen as a single or double dolly the single and double refuse to the amount of times you loop the rope around the bit or the dolls head hence it name dolly knot as it looks like an old stile Rag doll the bit or loop being the head and the coils around it the Dress collar the thiner the rope more coils to the collar are used as the thiner rope slips more easily than thiker ropes
EducatedClimber Hi-viz is mandatory here, illegal not to wear hi-viz outer. Very hard to see a groundie through the canopy of a tree if he's not wearing a hi-viz shirt and helmet.
Interesting throwing technique to get the lead rope as high as possible over the branch. I'll try that soon, because getting the attaching point as high as possible to the tree is the main trick to get the tree bent. The higher the attaching point, the longer the lever, the more massive the torque which pulls on the root-strunk. If You get the rope 10m above ground, every kilo You pull (with 3:1 transmission) equals 300Nm of torque on the strunk. That's about a much as my 2,0 Diesel car has. But You'll be able to pull more than just 1kg on the rope. If You pull 33,3kg, that powers massive 10'000Nm on the strunk! But I guess a strong man can pull more - maybe twice as much? Sometimes You have to beware not uprooting the tree... ;)
You made the loop on the bit too big normaly it's about two inches . With a standerd rope you use one dolly on thinner ropes two dolly's on the head as the thiner ropes espeasurly nylon ropes slip through the dolly's head . Our trailers are very differant under the edge of the trailer about every three to four foot is a hook wielded onto a cross member .the ropes we use are about fifty foot long we normaly carry five ropes , at one end of the rope is a loop the other a free end this end is your start not the loop but most drivers now are not taught this so they use the loop to put on a hook to start when you should use a bit looped through the main lone to make a slip knot with the bit trapped between the hook and the main line of the rope this is so you can pull the free end and undo the loop around the hook . Remeber I said only one wrap around the dolly head on a standerd rope this is because there is another meathod of undoing a dolly knot that is to break the head you place your hand from the top of the dolly grip the knot and bend it downwards so the loop in your palm bends downwards and you pull slide the dolly ring off the head the loop then you pull the rope and take the hitches off the hook that secured the tension you do this as you walke down one side go around the othere doing the same . If you did it the way you did to undoo the dolly knot you will be walking from one side to the other double-blind you work time and distance walked . Remeber the loop end well its used to extend your rope by joining up another what you do is hold the loop pass a bit through the loop then with the free end make another bit and pass it through the first then hold the line so the loop end of the first line is towards the ground facing upwards with the bit conection uppermost place a foot on the bottom rope and pull to tighten the conection before you throw the rope over the load on the trailer and sheets then when you are takeingvthe ropes off the load all you do is stand on the loop rope and pull the free end og the bit so both bits come appart and your left with two ropes . Once you have your dolly's set and you have pulled down as hard as you can if you need more preasure make a loop out f the free end of the line at about knee high place your foot in it holding the end og the downward line and the loop you made for your foot together before applying preasure downwards keeping an eye on the dolly's head to see if the dolls head is slipping through the coil around it so it does not slip off it could make you stumble and bang your knee on the trailers side guard but with a good rope this will not happen and practess makes perfect
rope on rope creates friction, friction creates heat! You rig trees like that, youre gonna burn your rope out and loose all control, even a lil one like the one you fell can quickly ruin your day. One solution, put a carabiner on your midline loop and pass the running end of your rope through it. problem solved. even better, throw on a micro pulley at your anchor and midline then bam, you got a simple, effective, safe, MA. to really top it off, and relieve the riggers forearms, throw on a eye to eye prusik along with the micro at midline and youve got a brake. thats the safest, most effective way to set up a basic MA system. Not trying to be rude, just trying to save lives. Stay safe.
I guess I shoulda worded my comment differently. All I was saying is one would be wise to eliminate rope on rope friction in a rigging scenario 👍 Folks see this and try and do it on a bigger tree then things can get bad fast. U do make a great point about the hitches.
Why go through all that? Why not just pull on that one leg of rope attached to the load. Not trying to be critical of your technique as I believe to each their own. I'm just trying to see what you see that I don't. Been doing this 35 years, one leg of rope, one tug, a cut and the tree comes down.
It almost reminds me of working with my dad. I'm the teacher now. The more I can learn and teach the more I can understand.
Your work is overwhelmingly useful. It's hard to come up with better words. You are helping all of us be better and safer than ever. Hard hats off to you.
Thank you! - Patrick
This is a great "infield" knot. I love the fact that you can just pull on the working end and the whole thing disappears! great job on editing and reiterating.
Very useful version of the truckers hitch. The example of which part of the bite you passed around took a few re-watchings to sort out since your hands were off screen most of the time.
Thanks bro! Enjoyed the extra clips in the snow, that made it super clear what you were doing.
Thanks I’ve enjoyed your videos simple real and no bells n whistles
Nice! I like the format of using previously uploaded knot tying footage interspersed with ground work. It really solidifies their usefulness in real world scenarios.
It also makes an overall better video
Love seeing the knot in a situation!
Well done. BEAUTY!
❤️ beautiful concept!
A “no-brainer” to those that already know it, and ingenious to those whom never seen it.
Invaluable information. I love UA-cam for these purposes.
This is a fantastic format, Patrick. Useful and detailed. Really looking forward to more like this!
Just used this knot today to cut down my neighbor's tree that was leaning into my garage. Worked like a charm. :)
Great video so easy to understand
That is indeed the CARGO hitch I remember, Truck drivers are known to use it but it is used in many industries and at sea, if it is employed correctly.
Totally rocked the editing on this one. Well done, sir.
how do people even dislike this video...
thanks man ill be using this for sure!
I agree. Crazy world
I've used this hitch for about 30 years as a truck driver and a crane and plant operator. The only way to go
Thanks for sharing!
Great video that's the way I was shown how to do a truckers hitch much better than other one's on you tube no threading ends through bite's tie & untie mid rope
Awesome good pull James 👍🏼 I was taught this in 1996
Very useful information, thanks. I'd love to see your take and method of sharpening a chain saw?
This was tought to me many years ago but using a alpine butterfly.
Nicely done. I like your style of working and teaching. Looking forward to future videos.
Good stuff, nice 👍
The English trucker's hitch I learned is completely different from they way you tied it although it is still maintains an easy way to untie the knot . The one I learned was basically a sheepshank to create the loop. I'd be more inclined to call yours an English trucker's hitch and mine a sheepshank hitch. Guess the only "problem" with the way you tie the English trucker's hitch is that you have to use a carabiner/shackle/etc. But then again with every knot or hitch there is pros and cons. Personally I use what we call a "coonass come-a-long" a lot in my job (offshore commercial diver working out of Louisiana, thus coonass) . Basically it's a loop created with an overhand knot and then works just like a regular trucker's hitch. We use 1/2" poly so when it comes to tying knots that can't be untied easily, we usually don't care cause our time costs more than cheap poly. With that being said, I have ran into situations where we were low on rope and had to conserve whatever rope we had to get the job done.
That's partially the reason why I like watching arborists videos. Because you guys use expensive rope, you guys always use knots that are easy to untie. Just learning your go-to knots has saved lots of time in my job when resupply was hard to get in a timely manner.
Great version of the trucker's hitch. I'm going to try this the next chance I get. Got a question though: Doesn't two reverses (one through the carabiner and one through the trucker's hitch knot) give you a 2/1 mechanical advantage, not a 3/1?
It's a poor man's version of a z-rig, which is a basic 3:1 setup. Of course because of all the friction it's not even close to 3:1, but you would be surprised how much of a pull you can get with it!... - Patrick
Is the pile hitch essentially a girth hitch?
Great Technique!
I will review exactly how you tie the loop in the middle of the rope, then I can't wait to try it out!
Great patience in teaching thank you
I like that knot! I typically use a slipknot oriented properly, the English knot might eliminate confusion with the orientation. Be Well
Why do you use husky over stihl
What do you call that knot at the base of the tree on that last cut?? That was slick!
Would you add some half hitches down the tail of the rigging line after the pile hitch, in the same manner you might do on limbs?
Beauty!
Thanks for your great videos, they really help a lot!! Are you gonna make a video about an easy setup for tentioning up a speedline? I think the English Truckers hitch may be a little inefficient for that purpose.
Yes I will do that at some point. I use just a simple 3 to 1 with a swing gate pulley and I leave the one side of the gate open. - Patrick
This is great! Another great pulling power video. I'm a tree rigging noob with a little knowledge of felling so bear with my question. I noticed you started a conventional cut then finally a Pie cut. My question is did you intend to do that or was it just a sub-conscience choice to progress the cut that much? I do realize the tree is small but I'm curious how much if any thought was put into that vs your rigging which you are obviously a professional at and great at communicating your plan to James/the camera.
i will give it a try 🏁
I liked the way everything looked. I didn't get a real good sense of how it was tied. It went in andout
out of veiw. I use the regular truckers hitch a lot and I tie mine slippery with a figure eight knot but it still can tighten up and not want come undone. The english version doesn't seem to ever tighten up that way. I'll keep watching it and try to figure it out maybe take another look yourself. Great knot
I love this version (I'm English so love the name but I must admit I've never run into this version before and have been using the 'standard' trucker's hitch for yrs... no longer as I'm a convert!)
My one question is about how you secured the line to the base of the tree at 6:08 as that looked amazing and I'm sure just as helpful to learn from.
Thanks Patrick
Regards
In the UK this knot is knowen as a single or double dolly the single and double refuse to the amount of times you loop the rope around the bit or the dolls head hence it name dolly knot as it looks like an old stile Rag doll the bit or loop being the head and the coils around it the Dress collar the thiner the rope more coils to the collar are used as the thiner rope slips more easily than thiker ropes
Wow!! This is great!!
Thank you. Very informative!
Спасибо. Наглядно, практично. Вступительную речь не понял, так как не знаю англиский
good video...thanks
Great channel man, if you ever pass through Myrtle Beach give us a call to m&m tree service.
Thank you, will do! - Patrick
Liking these vids👍🏻
Cheers Mate!
Nice hat!
Nice vid thanks 👍🏻
Obrigado, não percebi nada. Rapido demais es so tu a exibires-te.
Good stuff, it doesn't look like your groundie was wearing saw trousers. Serious lack of hi-viz as well.
Yes, he had saw pants on. I'm not real big on hi viz unless we are working beside a road. - Patrick
EducatedClimber Hi-viz is mandatory here, illegal not to wear hi-viz outer. Very hard to see a groundie through the canopy of a tree if he's not wearing a hi-viz shirt and helmet.
Interesting throwing technique to get the lead rope as high as possible over the branch. I'll try that soon, because getting the attaching point as high as possible to the tree is the main trick to get the tree bent. The higher the attaching point, the longer the lever, the more massive the torque which pulls on the root-strunk.
If You get the rope 10m above ground, every kilo You pull (with 3:1 transmission) equals 300Nm of torque on the strunk. That's about a much as my 2,0 Diesel car has. But You'll be able to pull more than just 1kg on the rope. If You pull 33,3kg, that powers massive 10'000Nm on the strunk! But I guess a strong man can pull more - maybe twice as much?
Sometimes You have to beware not uprooting the tree... ;)
The Eh Team!
You made the loop on the bit too big normaly it's about two inches . With a standerd rope you use one dolly on thinner ropes two dolly's on the head as the thiner ropes espeasurly nylon ropes slip through the dolly's head . Our trailers are very differant under the edge of the trailer about every three to four foot is a hook wielded onto a cross member .the ropes we use are about fifty foot long we normaly carry five ropes , at one end of the rope is a loop the other a free end this end is your start not the loop but most drivers now are not taught this so they use the loop to put on a hook to start when you should use a bit looped through the main lone to make a slip knot with the bit trapped between the hook and the main line of the rope this is so you can pull the free end and undo the loop around the hook . Remeber I said only one wrap around the dolly head on a standerd rope this is because there is another meathod of undoing a dolly knot that is to break the head you place your hand from the top of the dolly grip the knot and bend it downwards so the loop in your palm bends downwards and you pull slide the dolly ring off the head the loop then you pull the rope and take the hitches off the hook that secured the tension you do this as you walke down one side go around the othere doing the same . If you did it the way you did to undoo the dolly knot you will be walking from one side to the other double-blind you work time and distance walked . Remeber the loop end well its used to extend your rope by joining up another what you do is hold the loop pass a bit through the loop then with the free end make another bit and pass it through the first then hold the line so the loop end of the first line is towards the ground facing upwards with the bit conection uppermost place a foot on the bottom rope and pull to tighten the conection before you throw the rope over the load on the trailer and sheets then when you are takeingvthe ropes off the load all you do is stand on the loop rope and pull the free end og the bit so both bits come appart and your left with two ropes . Once you have your dolly's set and you have pulled down as hard as you can if you need more preasure make a loop out f the free end of the line at about knee high place your foot in it holding the end og the downward line and the loop you made for your foot together before applying preasure downwards keeping an eye on the dolly's head to see if the dolls head is slipping through the coil around it so it does not slip off it could make you stumble and bang your knee on the trailers side guard but with a good rope this will not happen and practess makes perfect
Why are you using the Pile Hitch as a bend?? It obviously worked, but in reality, there are many, many true bends that would work better.
A proper bend doesn't work very well when the 2 ropes are this far apart in diameter... - Patrick
rope on rope creates friction, friction creates heat! You rig trees like that, youre gonna burn your rope out and loose all control, even a lil one like the one you fell can quickly ruin your day. One solution, put a carabiner on your midline loop and pass the running end of your rope through it. problem solved. even better, throw on a micro pulley at your anchor and midline then bam, you got a simple, effective, safe, MA. to really top it off, and relieve the riggers forearms, throw on a eye to eye prusik along with the micro at midline and youve got a brake. thats the safest, most effective way to set up a basic MA system. Not trying to be rude, just trying to save lives. Stay safe.
I guess I shoulda worded my comment differently. All I was saying is one would be wise to eliminate rope on rope friction in a rigging scenario 👍
Folks see this and try and do it on a bigger tree then things can get bad fast.
U do make a great point about the hitches.
I like a clove and a half hitch better, ive done this before tho..
Theres a stronger one you could do using one or multiple sheet shanks
Why go through all that? Why not just pull on that one leg of rope attached to the load. Not trying to be critical of your technique as I believe to each their own. I'm just trying to see what you see that I don't. Been doing this 35 years, one leg of rope, one tug, a cut and the tree comes down.