Making A Carbon Fiber Print Bed For My 3D Printer (how to)
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- Hi everyone! In this video I’ll show you how I’ve made a carbon fiber print bed for my Ender 3 S1.
Some of the biggest advantages of using a carbon fiber bed plate on your 3D printer are the following:
1. Lower weight of the build plate (more stable movement)
2. Thermal stable on expansion (so less bowing or shrinkage of the plate)
3. Good thermal conductor (carbon fiber will take up heat faster and remove heat faster)
4. It looks good :D
Is this much better than a glass plate? No, you could get the same results with a glass plate but I believe this plate will have benefits using some more exotic filaments like ABS, TPU, Nylon, PET,…
Specially with the low thermal expansion and thermal conductivity of the carbon fiber
Let me know what printers most of u are using, so I can make some iterations on this video in the future based on most used 3D printers in the description.
I mainly work with carbon fiber on this youtube channel but decided to add a bit of 3D printing in my adventures.
As for the carbon fiber bed:
I’ve used various layers of carbon fiber to make a stable stack of layers with different weight of carbon fibers and carbon fiber orientation. Doing so I’m able to make a stable plate that won’t warp after demoulding or in the future while using it.
I have some more elaborated videos on my channel on my channel if interested in carbon fibre or processes used.
For this plate I’ve used the resin infusion technique (also called VARTM) to produce a nicely compacted stack of layers to add the resin to. The pressure of the vacuum will create an even thickness after demoulding the part.
As for the resin I’ve used some high temp resin from Easy Composites. In the past you might have seen that I’ve used the IN2 infusion epoxy resin. Having higher temperatures involved with 3d Printing I decided to use a higher temperature resin. The High Temperature resin from Easy Composites can be infused as well but has a higher viscosity so it’s advised to only use this on smaller and less complex parts. I let the resin cure for over 12 hours at room temperature before proceeding with the post curing of the part and resin into the oven. The part was graduality ramped up to higher temperatures over a timespan of 12 hours till 120°C. This means we now have a Tg value of 120°C for the print bed. Meaning it won’t bed, warp, melt till these temperatures.
To flatten the part after demoulding (B side has a peelply finish due to the peelply) I’ve used some primer out of spray can to highlight the low and high spots. Than I proceeded with sanding with a 150P grit sanding paper on my Mirka orbital sander. While sanding you’ll see how far you’ve got through the peelply finish and where you need more sanding. Having the B-side finish we can now proceed with the A-side. The A-side already had a good finish so I was able to start sanding with a 1200P grit followed by some polishing.
As For the printing:
I’ve made this printbed for my Creality Ender 3 S1. In case you’ve missed my review on this printer you can find it on following link: • Creality Ender 3 S1 - ...
I’ve adding the plate using some clamps followed by some bedleveling. Keep in mind that adding a plate like this will lower your build volume due to the space the clamps are taking. I’ve noticed this while levelling the bed and having the CR touch interfering with the clamps. By moving the clamps I was able to solve that problem and proceed to do a first heat test of the bed. I’ve noticed that the temperatures where a bit of but I’ll fix that later on with some PID tuning in the software.
Once everything ready I was able to do a first test print, on the new Carbon Fiber print bed, being a calibration cube. I’ve started a bit higher on the Z-axis to lower it while printing till I was happy with the adhesion on the print bed. The Print turned out great with a good finish on the bottom of the part, even leaving an added bonus of having a nice texture of carbon fiber on the bottom. So far so good and more happy with this than my PC flex plate that came with the Creality Ender 3 S1 printer stock.
I’ve added a new print being a Benchy to make sure everything was running well. And it did! Good benchy came out of the printer without being knocked of the builplate.
Carbon fiber carbon fiber carbon fiber carbon fiber carbon fiber
3d print 3d print 3d print 3d print 3d print 3d print 3d print 3d print 3d print
Bed plate Bed plate Bed plate Bed plate Bed plate Bed plate Bed plate Bed plate
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Let me know what printer you are using, So I can see what the most used printers are to base my future build plates on ;)
Ender 3 pro but also will be doing the 300x300 ender extender would love the y carriage too
ender 3
Anycubic Vyper
Ender 3 v2
Anycubic Vyper
Oh man, this is cool. I didn't think that carbon pattern would transfer so perfectly onto the print. And bonus points for having the coolest build plate.
Thanks! Wasn't expecting it as well to be honest, it's more like a visual thing, it's fully flat but has like a holographic carbon fiber visual on it 😁
There's already a company visionminer doing CF plates but they are quite expensive.
nice job as always dear Matthieu, I learned so much from you over the years, thank you for all your great tutorials
Thanks for your awesome comment! makes my day!
Let's face it, the main reason anyone would want a CF build plate is because it looks freaking amazing!
Thanks for another fun and interesting video.
Haha true! it looks good but has some great extra features as well :D
That is awesome! Was waiting for this video after seeing it “coming soon” on Instagram. 👍
Thanks! Glad to hear you are following me on Instagram as well 😁
Interesting video! *subscribed*
I did this a couple of months ago on my Creality CR10S Pro v2. I replaced both the print surface as well as the bottom bed frame primarily to shave off weight. Before the replacement the bed stack had a 4mm thick aluminum plate as the bottom frame ( where the wheels are ) and above that a 3mm alu plate where the bed heater is attached and on top of that a 3mm alu plate with some BuildTak-clone as the actual print surface. Since the density of aluminum is 2700kg/m3 the original bed plate stackup weighed ~2.1kg (bottom 4mm frame alu plate was 25x29cm and the upper 3mm alu plates were 31x32cm).
I replaced the top most alu plate with a 1.5mm thick 30x32cm CF plate which saved me ~600g (measured density to 1520kg/m3). 😀 Replacing the bottom frame only saved ~150g because the original alu frame had cut out holes and me and my brother (who helped me cut the CF plates) only bothered to cut one hole at some place on the 4mm CF plate. But a total weight loss of 750g from original 2100g certainly was noticable! I could rerun the input shaping in Klipper and saw an increased resonance frequency on the Y-axis and could increase my Y-acceleration from 1200mm/s2 to 1600mm/s2 with no increase in ghosting (my measurements show I could go up to ~2500mm/s2 perhaps but then the ghosting starts to show and I prefer quality).
After all this I'm quite certain that I could have used a 3mm CF plate for the bottom frame instead of 4mm, because the 4mm was incredibly unbendable and feeling the stiffness of the 1.5mm CF plate I think 3mm would make a rigid bottom frame also.
Regarding the bed adhesion I used the regular 83degC for PETG as I did before but I experienced worse adhesion than with the original BuildTak-clone. Tried squishing more and more but didn't help much. Tried hairspray and PrimaFix and purple glue stick and the gluestick was the best and made a huge difference, got better adhesion than even the original BuildTak-clone! The downside was that I must apply the gluestick on a cold bed otherwise there would be too much being smeared on the CF plate and that would show as ugly scrapes on the bottom side of the prints. Also I had to use quite large brims everytime I needed to print things only a few cm high or the print would start to detach in the corners in the middle of the print.
In the end I bought a 0.2mm thick PEI sheet and applied on the CF plate to not have to bother with the gluestick and excessive brims. I still see the beautiful CF surface through the PEI sheet, but I never got the CF pattern on the bottom of my prints before anyway so no loss there (only a bit more matte bottom surface on the prints using PEI vs shiny bottom when printing directly on the CF).
Just my experience in case someone wants to do the same. :)
Do you think we can sand the CF with some fine sand paper to make it adhere better? Like 3000 grid or even finer.
@@modelsport2350 Certainly would be interesting to try 🙂 maybe use an even coarser sand paper than 3000
Thanks for the info! I'm planning to redo the entire bed fully in carbonfiber as well later on for a future video ;) good to know the problems you had, I'll keep that in mind!
3000 is to fine, would indeed be more something of 800 if you want more mechanical bond with your prints
The weave on the bottom looks crazy cool I want a high temp version of this for my Voron!
Working on different build plates, some will be for the Voron printers probably
@@MatthieuLibeert Amazing yeah unfortunately I don't have an autoclave :( I'm sure if you made them the corresponding sizes and temp tolerances for abs I know a bunch of people who would want one!
Very intriguing, first time I see someone make things out of real / unfinished carbon fiber!
I do wonder how much sense does it make though. I'll just write down my opinion as a constructive criticism and personal opinion.
While I agree that carbon fiber would be a great choice for a build plate, I wouldn't say it's ideal as a print surface (cool texture though!).
In my opinion, PEI sheets seem superior in that regard. Featuring a higher thermal resistance + brilliant adhesion and they even come in double sided (smooth + textured surface that has a really nice finish to it) variations with a magnetic build plate for easy removal. They're also flexible as they use spring steel. High quality 310x310 set can be found for about 60$ with shipping.
Combining carbon fiber with PEI sheets / stickers or something like Buildtak on the other hand does sound appealing but considering the price, I'd say this would be a niche market.
Carbon fiber is very lightweight and that's a big plus for high speed printing, another thing I really like is the property that allows carbon fiber to cool down faster, wasn't aware of that.
I personally own Artillery Sidewinder X1 that has a pretty warped bed so this sounded intriguing at a first glance, but ABL sensor effectively negates that issue.
Sidenote: There's a Discord with a quite substantial amount of Sidewinder X1 owners that probably don't know about this video and could be interested in it, let me know if you'd like an invite link.
I am curious about the price though. Did a quick google search and I've seen "3D print-friendly" carbon fiber plates for 310x310x2.5 for 100-120$ (non pre-drilled).
There's also standard carbon fiber plate sized 400x300x3 costing only 65$, which does require a bit of cutting work but it'd be better than most (if not all) stock plates.
I'm out of my depth, but wouldn't these prices be really difficult to compete against considering your work is manual and both the carbon fiber + resin tend to be quite expensive ?
Anyways, I hope you didn't take this post the wrong way. I like your idea, as well as the video and I don't want to discourage you in any way! Cheers!
Hi Vex, thanks for your long message, I'm open for discussion and don't take your comments the wrong way!
Here some (personal) remarks or points from my side:
It's hard to discuss on different options of buildplates as I think its more of a personal preference (workflow and price related).
On my Ender 5 Plus printers I have glass beds and never had any troubles with adhesion as long as everything is well calibrated.
Just love how you can just remove the print without any effort once the glass has cooled.
On my ender 3S1 I got the flexplates. As much as I like the concept, I've found them extremely annoying; small prints and TPU parts are hard to remove as they bend with the plate. 2nd is that the adhesion is "too good" for me. I also find it a bit of a weird concept that you want to bend the baseplate you are printing on, with the idea that you want your plate to be as flat as possible without any damage.
Another thing is that I like a gloss plate, so I can check the distance between nozzle and bed for the first layer. Found it hard to see on the black matte textured plates.
I also find that buildplates with some extra mass/thickness, keep the heat of the buildplate a bit better, making them more stable on temperature side.
I Haven't tried the PEI with smooth surface so couldn't compare to that :)
About combining PEI and Carbonfiber might cause problems due to different expansion rates, combining 2 different materials might warp the plate under heat/cooling
Feel free to share my video in the Sidewinder X1 community, I might see their comments in the comment section later on then :D
Price is an important aspect as well indeed. I've found out that there is a good amount of "cheapskates" (dont want to offend anyone) in the 3D printing community. Some find €250 still to much for a printer in some way...
By making the Ender 3 S1 review I got many comments about it being an expensive printer and you could get better printers for that money.
I personally don't mind paying a bit more for some things that are reliable, low on maintainance, have a big community, many spareparts, mods and upgrade prints,.... Same goes for a good print bed for me.
Not saying it has to be this carbonfiber one (It was easy for me to make for myself for a good price, using leftovers and I have access to all needed materials. At the moment I'm working on an upgraded version in many different formats and new mounting options.
I'll see to what pricepoint I get...If some want it I'll be happy to supply them, If some find them to expensive, no problems.
Making these to sell isn't my main goal. I make money making more complex custom carbon fiber parts for various type of industry and companies.
Luckily in carbonfiber production there are many production techniques, making it possible to make parts faster and cheaper but with a higher set-up/moulding cost. But If you get the selling volumes up, this might be an option to make them more affordable, in a way, for most people.
About the stock carbonfiber plates on the market. If you look online and want to buy carbonfiber plates, they will mostly be made out of a low temp resin and won't have a Quasi-Isotropic lay up like here (having strands of carbonfiber in all directions 0/90 -45/+45 degree) making the plate extremely strong and stable. Obviously this is something most people don't know (and don't expect people to know that) Most plates you would buy online will only have a 0/90 degree orientation, making them stiff on bending and pulling but not good on warping/twisting.
I appreciate your comment, and hope to have given you a bit more insights with mine. Not trying be a smartass or to "defend" my carbonfiber plate, but to gave you a bit more information of my creative thinking process prior making them :)
@@MatthieuLibeert Happy to hear you didn't take anything the wrong way! You certainly raised some valid points that I overlooked, and I'm glad you did because I've learned a thing or two!
I'm definitely with you on paying more for something that has a quality to justify the higher price. Gotta say that I had to google the "Quasi-Isotropic" part, but I think I understand what you mean and see the benefits. I wonder if those properties also apply to thermal expansion as well, making it even across the plane just like the strength and stiffness ?
As for the PEI flexplates , I mostly stick to PLA for the time being (relatively new to this), but yeah.. I can imagine TPU and alike being a bit wonky and annoying. I personally really like it so far as I had serious adhesion issues with the stock textured glass for some reason (even with glue methods, was really frustrating) + the textured finish looks quite nice as it doesn't even look as if the first layer is 3D printed. But I also like this carbon fiber footprint that your bed leaves (although I have no clue how that happens, since I imagine it's quite smooth due to resin).
I do hope your project takes off well and I'll be happy to share it in the community for SW to hopefully help it gain some traction. It seems like a genuinely nice idea and it's well crafted. It's lightweight, has a nice thermal conduction properties, leaves an interesting finish on the bottom, looks awesome and so on :P
The only thing that's a bit of a bummer for me personally is this "PEI+Carbon" combination that you addressed earlier, but I'm glad you did. I reckon the PEI won't last forever and I like tinkering so I might give the carbon a go someday myself (if you end up making these indeed). Not sure if you're aware, but Artillery Sidewinder X1 doesn't actually have a metal plate under the glass, meaning that the bed heater is applied directly to the build surface. Just to be on the safe side, would you say that's okay for carbon fiber ?
I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but better to confirm with somebody that understands the material better than I do. While Sidewinders use AC heated bed, it's of course isolated so I don't think it'd be unsafe, just curious about any potential warping issues.
Anyways, I'm glad we had this conversation, hopefully it'll help other people with similar concerns that may stumble on it as well.
@@vex9596 the main goal of the thin metal plate is to act as a heat spreader. Im guessing here but since carbon has much better thermal conductivity than glass (the epoxy is what makes cf products not thermally conductive), the strands/weave would help spread the heat laterally so it might actually be better than bed heater directly on glass. A heat spreader might still be a good idea tho since the thermistor only samples a single spot, a hot spot is more likely to exceed the Tg since youll be running a lot closer to the Tg of the cf than glass.
@@ComeToLyfe Thanks for pitching in! Yeah, the guys over at the Sidewinder community pointed out that epoxy has a pretty bad thermal conductivity, even though carbon itself is pretty good in that regard. Didn't know about one point temperature sampling though. My main reason for wanting to change the bed plate is due how warped it is. People recommend MIC 6 cast aluminum as an ideal choice, but can't find it locally and it's about 120$ (+ possible import taxes) with shipping otherwise.. I think I'll just try to get some ordinary glass instead and see how it handles. Borosilicate glass is obviously better, but once again, can't really find it :X Do you happen to know if thickness of the glass plays a major role when used as a bed plate ? My stock is 5mm, just curious if I absolutely have to match it or if something thinner is viable.
@@vex9596 mic6 is probably cheaper than cf. You might consider garolite as an alternative to glass. Dont think the glass thickness matters kther than durability. I will mention that often with entry level printers, people think their beds are warped when in reality its a problem with slop/flex/skew in the printers motion components that makes it seem like the bed is warped.
I would be really curious to know how well this surface works for various filament types. pla, petg, abs, nylon, tpu, etc.
Will be in a future video normally 😉
Keep it up, bro! Always a pleasure to enjoy your videos!!🥰🥰🥰
Thank you so much 😁
Absolutely love it! Been wanting to try CF print surface for a while, but bed temperature was always a concern...
As long as high temperatures resins are used you should be fine
@@MatthieuLibeert that's the problem... I was looking for something I could buy... Never worked with CF before
I'll probably have them for sale soon, working on some fine-tuning first at the moment
Great video. with Vacuum Infusion Process, always one side is glossy and the other one dull? So all the blades with glossy finish at both sides are made with the old method, right?
This is actually a great idea. I will try this :)
thanks! good luck!
Thanks for the video! I posted on FB groups about CF build plate but nobody seems have done yet. And this video comes to my timeline(Thanks to youtube algorithm)
Why I need a CF build plate?
I mainly printing ABS, Nylon etc and goes up to 130 degC temperatures.
Flat glasses are actually not %100 flat. Also tempered glasses are distorting during tempering process.
Since I'm only using tempered glass as built plate (500x500mm) the deviation between points can go up to 0.5mm at 100 degC which makes printing impossible.
Why didn't you make the CF as your primary built plate? I wish you could go high temperatures and measure the flatness of CF build plate. The thermal expansion of CF is lower than a glass. I'm also wondering how different filaments sticks to CF buildplate?
Anyway I have some WestSystem epoxy here but not sure if it will resist that temperature. I was thinking laying CF between two glasses and laminate the epoxy by hand.
Hi, Thanks for your comment, as far as I know its not being done alot indeed, so decided to share my thoughts. Carbonfiber might indeed be suited for larger plates rather than glass then, thermal expansion would indeed be less. 130°c or more should indeed be possible, the Carbonfiber can handle it, it's more a matter of resin then and most common epoxies can't handle that, that's why I've used a special high temp resin... Didn't go for a base plate replacement but more as an attachement for first testings... Have some ideas to make this better in the future and will test different materials as well to print with on this plate, still waiting on the all metal hotend and enclosure will be designed and built soon so stay tuned 😉
I'm using a Tevo Tarantula, which has a really wobbly bed sling
Thanks for your comment! good to know!
I work on my own diy high heat heated chamber printers (way above 100*C...) i was trying to make the bed put of carbon fibre at least for abs but it was hard to work with 100+ on bed...wish i can find resin for it to work good in 150*C for peek plastic.
Most popular 3d printers:
Ender 3
Cr-10
And sapphire pro (best for quality and speed after repleacing few parts for better quality ones)
That's cool! There are some resins that would go up to 150°C and above so is something that could be made.
Nice video :3
Thanks!
Leuk concept van dat carbon fiber printbed! Ik heb je kanaal ontdekt via deze video en heb me meteen geabonneerd ;-)
Goed gedaan 😉 thanks!
looks amazing. My understanding of composite carbon fiber though is that the thermal conductivity of the resin isn't very good. Given that the heater is in direct contact with resin not carbon fiber, I wonder if that is why your plate temperatures are so far off?
As it was resin infused the fibers are almost in direct contact withbthe mouldside,while sanding the toplayer of resin is removed giving that pattern on the prints and heat transfer should ben better as well
Hi, im just wondering if you tried what max temperature that bed can withstand? Anyway good job!
Up to 130°c
You should use aluminum tooling plate for heated bed. But, whatever works for you.
So far so good with this one :) but thanks for the info
Jo Matthieu kan je een keer een video maken hoe je de nozel van een Ender 5 plus vervangt want ik heb de hele tijd het probleem dat mijn prints met heelveel bolletjes precies er uit komen ik weet niet wat ik daar het beste zo aan doen al vast bedankt .
Zal eens kijken wat ik kan doen, ben momenteel een nieuw extra youtube kanaal aan het opstarten over enkel 3d printing
its basically g10 on maker muse videos, based from resin board i think it will perform the same
It's a bit different. If I'm correct the G10 plate is made with fiberglass, Carbon fiber has some extra advantages, but printing should on it should indeed be similar in a way
This is the second video I have seen of someone going through the crazy amount of labor to make their own carbon fiber plate to be used as a print bet. I asked the previous person the same question, WHY? The only benefits I see are the fact that the sheet is rigid and fairly light. The cons I see are that CF does not conduct heat well so heating over a surface area will be uneven, cost to make is high and labor required to create is very high, in addition to the fact that CF and related resins are quite expensive. I do not know for certain but one would think that the flatness of these CF sheets is quite good, but is it better than a precision milled cast aluminum plate such as MIC6? Cast aluminum also conducts heat VERY evenly making it quite ideal for print bed surfaces if it were not so heavy. Bed slinger printers do better with a fairly thin sheet of extruded aluminum similar to what is found on the Creality printers.
Hi, Thanks for your comment and time you took to write it out! The thing is that carbon fiber is a good heat conductor, the epoxy is a heat insulator. When properly made with a very low amount of epoxy you get a good thermal stable plate without warping and good heat distribution. It's true that it's expensive! For some people it's not worth the money if you are just printing figurines or random object. For some people working on high heat printing or in need of stable printing this could be the way to go
I am interested to see the output of a bed mesh levelling for such bed, perhaps it could be flatten using a reference stone.
I have something like that in mind, will probably do it in a future video ;)
Is the texture of the weave presenting in the print because of temperature variations of the weave? I thought the resin would give you a glass surface
the texture is where the fibers are on the surface. So they are impgregnated with resin but in theory you are printing on the fibers, thats why the lines are visible
So you are just printing on epoxy resin?
More like a good amount of carbonfiber with a bit of epoxy resin yes
Bonjour, super idée !!! Mais pour imprimer du polycarbonate ou nylon, c'est un peu limite non? 110° à 120°...
avec cette plaque je suis sur jusqu'a 120°C normallement, a tester plus tard :) sinon j'ai déjà d'autres solutions prêtes a tester :)
@@MatthieuLibeert
Merci de ta réponse. J'avais dans l'idée de faire une plaque en prépreg. Une plaque de 330x330x6mm; qui serait le lit direct avec 750w de lit en silicone dessous et lit magnétique avec pei texturé dessus... Super, tiens nous au courant de tes tests!
++ JP
I thought the main advantage would be that you could flex it to pop the print off but you never showed this. Would it be able to do that?
this plate doesn't flex as I don't like the flexplates and rather have a solid plate. When the part and plate cools again you can just remove it easily
do a weight difference between carbon and glass
would be half the weight, but depends on thickness
nice work you make one for the prusa mk3?? ill take one
Looking into it due to a high demand, still going through a lot of hours of testing at the moment to make sure everything is right
For us that don't have a automatic bed leveling it's very critical to have a uniform thickness on the buildplate, I don't think that is possible without machining the bottom somehow.
machining would be ideal but this sheet is pretty flat already due to the vacuum that was used to compress all the layers to an even thickness. While tramming/leveling the bed with the knobs it was already good on Z height on 4 corners, but like you say machining would be ideal :)
Common Fibers - Additive presses their CF-build plates between two machined faces of steel resulting in a uniform thickness!
good videos you make! Ja one question..Can high temp epoksi hold 200c for long time?
200c for long time might be a bit to much for this epoxy I think
@@MatthieuLibeert Well I aggree. I found 2 product which can be good. For US buyers is EP46HT-1 and for EU and US is EPO-TEK 353ND . I still dont know how much volume I need to make heat plate.. becauseIm designing my Own most advanced kombo machine. Ja my build plate will be 315x315... you know calculations for that. I will study more.
@@ItisImarko depends on how you want to make it what lay up and what production technique and how good you're at it...roughly you would need the same weight of your material build up and add 30% for materials left in cup, tubes, infusionmesh
Wow! F....ing congratulations
Thanks 👍😉
I need help. I want to buy my first 3d printer. Which would you recommend? I'm looking at ender 3 v2 with dulal z or ender 3 s1.
It's hard to give a general advice on what to buy, I think it's good to compare different reviews and see what you expect of a printer, So far I'm pretty happy with the S1
nice one
Thanks
So how durable is this bed? How well it stays flat while heated up? I feel like the adhesion properties is probably similar to other resin based bed like Garolite. I'm using ender 3 235x235 mm
It's durable, carbon fiber is stiff and strong and it's basically more fiber than resin. It's stays extremely flat as Carbonfiber has an extremely low thermal expansion
Tronxy XY-2 PRO
How thick was the plate?
would be around 3mm
Carbon fiber wraped 3d prints. Super strong at home manufacturing?
it's on the project list
i'm currently using a voron zero
will probably be my next investment :D
what material did you use on printing on top of that print bed, are you using PLA, i am using petg tell me if you use petg can be print or not. If yes i might make later.
PLA was used, PETG shouldn't be a problem I think...going through a lot of testprints at the moment, will make a new video about that later on
@@MatthieuLibeert thanks
What benefit does this have over an FR4 (fiberglass-epoxy) bed?
Pretty similar but Carbonfiber has a lower expansions/contraction under heat and better thermal conductivity
CR-10, 2x Ender 3 Pro, and 400mm RatRig VCore3.
Nice collection ;) I guess I'll see a lot of Creality printers here in the comments :D
Is it flexible enough to snap models off?
No it's not, the parts just falls of once te plate cooks down
next mod，carbon bed carriage bracket and ac heater directly on the carbon build plate
There's a big chance 😉
I would pay to have 1 made for my riase3d E2 tired of paying for build tack mags every few month. I print alot especially with cfpetg
Still going through testphase on multiple materials and some additional upgrades, once I have it all figures out I'll probably put them to sale. I'll make a video to announce it later on on my channel ;)
@@MatthieuLibeert sounds good! I hope that trials and testing progress smoothly! Ill send my build plate if nessisery lol but great work man! Hope to hear from you soon!
So far so good and I don't really expect problems but if I would sell something I would like it to be 100% good
@@MatthieuLibeert hey i completely understand i can patently wait for a solid product! Its almost 90$ US for my build plate and mat and replace the mat is almost 50$ by itself i rather pay 200 or 300us for a cf plate that will last me longer than what i have now. I love that its a flex plate but hate how stupid pricey the mats can be and how fast they ware out from printing
@@theogo4575 perfect! Will probably in a pre-order style... Will post a video when ready on my channel to announce it!
Super vette video Matthieu doe zo verder
Thanks! Leuk te horen dat je deze video leuk vind!
Matt, ik heb deze opstelling van vaqum op glas ook al gedaan. Ik heb wel altijd kleine gaatjes op de goede zijde.
Ik heb ook al eens geprobeerd van de epoxy zeer langzaam te laten vloeien maar dit helpt niet. Heb jij een tip voor mij?
kan soms door vocht zijn in je weefsel, dus weefsel goed drogen of lang vacuum laten trekken, licht soms ook aan lucht die nog in de hars zit of type hars.
@@MatthieuLibeert Ok, Matt dan weet ik al wat het is. Ik heb 8 jaar geleden een nieuwe garage gebouwd en het stuk waar mij auto staat is niet verwarmd en ik heb al mijn rollen met cf doek onder mijn auto op de beton liggen. Dat zal het dan wel zijn. Thx voor de tip bro
@@robolop de kans bestaat er in dat dit het dan inderdaad is... Er zijn nog vele factoren maar moeilijk zomaar te bepalen wat het is
Interesting
Thanks a lot 🙂
how much carbon fiber bed plate weight?
Hi, would be around 180 grams. Will do a full Q&A later on with all the questions I got so far and I'll mention the weight as well then
Hi, love this! Do you sell these?
At this moment not yet, I'm finetuning it all with some upgrades and will probably upload a new video once I'm ready to take orders
so I'm not the only one that keeps the packing material
Haha pretty handy sometimes 😁
Hi Also Belgium! I am developing my own 3D printer design, interested to come together?
how much does the bed weigh and how much would it cost if it was made to order? seems like carbon fibre is only option for high-speed bedslingers
X5sa bed 330x330
Ratrig v-core 3 510x510mm
Happy with that printer?
@@MatthieuLibeert this is my second 3d printer and the speed and size amazes me
so you are not printing on a carbon fiber surface but a cured resin surface (probably epoxy)
Ender 3 pro. If you could make me one I'd Pau ya
I just tried this it did not work.. did I perhaps polish it too much? hahahaha man I want it to work
What exactly didn't work? 🙂 Printing on it or making it?
@@MatthieuLibeert ow sorry I mean the texture 😂 I'm tempted to try other polishing compounds since I only used whatever my dad has. Right now I'm bummed because it works like an overpriced glass bed or so to say overkill CF plate hahaha
I'm thinking if I should just sand it a bit more on the surface then some minor polishing. My main concern is if I make the resin layer too thin I'm afraid it might not last long.
@@timothyreyes5392 you need to sand till your in the fibers, In theory I have no resin layer on top, I'm printing on the sanded epoxy impregnated exposed fibers
@@MatthieuLibeert thank you for clarifying this 😁👌 i hope I don't F* up the surface hahaha
Hi Matthieu. Our hobbies are pretty much the same. My dad and me are also doing much carbon fibre stuff. Mostly EDF jets.
I also wanted to combine 3d printing and carbon fibre and built an appropriate and kind of new printer. Check out my latest video. Hope you find it interesting.
I need to make a sandwich bed now with high temp epoxy because i want to print with a heated bed and abs
That's cool! had a quick look at your video's, look nice! Keep in mind that sandwich core carbon fiber structures will have an insulating effect, making it harder for your plate to heat up
cr 10
глянцевая поверхность и отпечаток -бред
Tu parle francais
Oui je parles aussi français
And then you crash into the bed and ruin your 500 euros plate !
You can just sand it back again or fill with resin worst case, and that's not a 500 euro plate to reassure you 😁
Pretty pointless...isnt it?
What Exactly do you mean?
you need have tape on bed, cuz its glossy and you cant see right temperature ,,,,,,,,when using the mesurment instrument of temperature xD
Sorry for bad English ;)
correct, I've put a sheet of paper on top to measure, but for the video did it that way :)
and next carbonfiber heat bed not only shitty cover 😉
you start small before going bigger ;) It's on the list indeed
how much for one ?:D 220x220 ?:D
Still going through testing, once I get everything right I'll announce it on my channel when they are for sale ;)
Are you, or do you know anyone who is, selling these?
So far not, still going through testing, but once I got everything right I'll announce it on my channel when they are for sale ;)
Common Fibers sells them!