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It's the same frame, just factory drilled holes for different features/options.. we used to fill the ones we didn't need with weld and grind it smooth and then box it.. (takes away any weakness and flex) sandblast it, box it, fill holes with welder, then powder coat it.. start with a great platform to build on. Gas Monkey did a good Job but you with a little effort can go a better Job on what they started.
Hi Alex, it is very important! Gas Monkey was customizing frame to apply lower air suspension. Compare old and new frame before painting "new old" frame. Good luck, it is very difficult project! But you are the best car rebuilder! :D
Custom deluxe is the chrome package, interior package . The frame is fine. The holes are mounting points for wiring and other components. This build is a great project for you, old school learning, they where built simple. Thanks for sharing your story.
The Custom Deluxe was the mid grade trim of the C/K trucks. All that matters is that the measurements between key locations match up. Media blast the frame, then give it a coating of POR15, then paint it. You're golden.
Great score on that parts truck. Over here in Nova Scotia, the parts would have fallen off in your hands, crumbling. That would have been a re-builder truck here, and we'd have been happy to find one that good.
Same in Ontario, so much salt on the roads in winter. I am amazed at southern cars sitting in a field for 30 years look like 10 to 15 year old vehicles here....
DUDE! coming from Ontario Canada .... that body is in amazing shape .... "rust on the frame" to us usually means something else lol!! SWEET BUILD. Good luck!!
Those holes are just slight changes from year to year. Nothing to worry about, those two C-frames are a match. Also, Custom Deluxe was the base model trim. The trims went from Custom Deluxe, Scottsdale, Cheyenne, up to the fancy Silverado. Notable difference between those two trucks, 1976 was the first year they had shoulder belts. That 75 wont have the upper mounts for seat belts. I actually found that out putting a 75 cab on my 76 haha. Trivia fact, 1976 was the last year GM painted the motors Orange. Can't wait to see more!
2:55 70's Chevy truck trim levels: Base-level == Custom Mid-level == Custom Deluxe High-level == Cheyenne Top-line == Cheyenne Super - 12:15 These holes "witness marks" are used to align specific assembly equipment assisting work on the line in the automated days before robots. These would often change while upgrading the assembly process. - A custom frame would have been nice but, not worth the effort in a rebuild like this. Thanks for doing your part and keeping this old iron on the road.
You’re thinking of the 1968-1972 trucks, once the “square body” was introduced in ‘73 they added Scottsdale and Silverado and got rid of the Cheyenne super and Cheyenne. So it’d go Custom and Custom Deluxe to Scottsdale to Silverado.
Good find Alex on the parts truck. Those frames are exactly the same. Everything will cross over. I would sand blast and then powdercoat the frame. Those old body panels are in high demand and they aren't that bad. List them for sale and recoup some cash!
Congrats on securing the replacement frame. My only advice and I hope you do follow, is to staffer the frame. Summit Racing sells a kit for a low price that will fix the stuped week point in the OEM frame. Best of luck bro.
Actually, the body on that is in good shape, rust is minimal and easily fixed. Square bodies like that are in high demand in my area and I've seen trucks like this without a motor go for $2,000 to $3,000
After sandblasting, you can buy spray bedliner kits that you can tint any color. It's easy to spray, and will last forever. BisforBuild painted one of his cars with it, so keep that in mind for a finish after sandblasting.
Those two frames are exactly the same where it counts. Don’t get distracted by those holes etc. These trucks have lived a long life and who knows what previous owners have attempted. You’ve got this and did the right thing by sourcing a new frame.
I bought one new in 75....Custom, Custom Deluxe,Camper Special, Scottsdale, Silverado were all Trim Packages denoting how ''Fancy'' your Truck was! Silverado eventually became the Model Name of the Truck instead of a top line Trim Package. I got two-tone paint (light blue with a white cove) chrome trim, hubcaps and bumpers with the "Custom Deluxe'' 350/350 combo Drivetrain and I sprung for a matching Perris Valley Camper Shell.....BadAss!
Hi, Don't Mind the Holes . Weld Them up , then re - drill What You Need . box The front Half of the Frame to prevent Twisting . add a reinforcement plate Under The Steering Box Area ( Bad for cracking the Mounting Holes ) . Just Start at the Front and work to the Rear . Great Work !!!!
the chem dipping mentioned is prolly to take the paint off without taking the zinc coating off the frame , prolly can blast it and then zink coat and powdercoat it
I would make sure the rear section of the Gas Monkey frame is square and cut it and weld it together to the new front section (Back half). I’m sure a lot of custom work was done to the rear. The front of the frame looks like it was at least notched for the steering components. Would have loved to see this truck go to someone who knew c10’s but it’s great to see someone learning about them.
C'mon guys, have your vehicles get an annual an oil based rust profing done. I keep my cars ay least 15 to 18 years ! And I live in the Montreal, Québec Canada area, the kingdom of road salt and colder temps than Michigan ! Followed by weird freezing rains than down again. The very worst temps for a car or truck.
The holes are pre drilled in the frame on the assembly line so that there is multiple uses for the frame. The same frame is used for the short box step side(fender side). The extra holes are pre drilled for braces that support the steps. There is a small step between the fender and the cab on those models. There was also an option of duel gas tanks. Don't worry it will all line up.
WOW those cab mount bolts came out easy!! All bolts seemed easy.. where i’m from I would have been heating shit up or cutting them off... Nice work... having a forklift is pretty handy too...
True. here in the workshop we have buckets and buckets of old bolts nuts and washers.You never know when you will need them. Same for computer screws, before throwing away an old cpu case I take off everything useful till the last bolt, even buttons, leds etc. They could be useful in a future, also a fuckton of them can fit on a little box that takes no space at all.
Do all the welding work before painting it. I bet you have to weld brackets for 4 link or for the airbag brackets. I think powdercoating could be an another choice for painting it, if you find a company that has a big oven for the frame. Keep up the good work!
Don't forget to spray all the frame bolts with some kind of Bolt/Nut loosen-er and let it sit and soak, so when it comes to take the bolts/nuts off it should make things a little easier for you. And like ppl were saying Boxing the frame and hide all the wires inside for the clean look. Awsome Vids
I'd take some measurements and confirm the rear part of frame on the gas monkey truck is square, cut it off and graft, fish plate it. It'll save you the trouble of having to notch the new frame and fab the 4 link.
73-85 I think are the same. I would call someone like LMC or Brothers Trucks, these guys are the experts on these trucks. I think the holes doesn't matter. small holes can be welded or drilled as needed. It is the big things, like mounts and measurements.
Only two things you need to worry about. Is the frame still square? If you haven't checked it for square, You should. It also wouldn't hurt to check the bumper mounts "Frame horns" to make sure they aren't warped. You should also check it for a twist. Thee frames are not very solid. For all, you know this truck may have seen a ditch or two. Checking for these things can save you a lot of headaches in the long run. Powder coat will last longer than paint will.
Looks like it was a sand color factory and it's easier to pull the dog house in one piece and not remove ever fender , wheel well , or core support . As for the rest of the parts truck you can sell the extras and double your money . This is a great build and can't wait for the next episode 😁
Frame is the same. From 1973-1986 frame should be the same. The only thing to look for is where the steering box bolts on frame would crack sometimes. Great find. Cannot wait to see it come together
The frames are the same go ahead and use it. I have built a few c10s over the years and the years are 73-80 for that front end style, and a 81-87 for the more square front end the frame can be used, the biggest difference is at the front where the bumper mounts but can be made to work.
The 81-87 trucks can be fitted with the grill and radiator mount from the 88-91 Suburban Blazer and Crewcab. In the frame there may be some different holes but every hole you need will likely be there. The only time frame swapping is an issue is when going from 2wd to 4wd or using suburban frame for a pickup as the rails are different.
Sandblast the frame, box the frame and get the frame powder coated. Powder coating lasts longer and it's more durable. Especially on the frame. Plus you'll need to box the frame if you don't want any flexing with the power the engine is pushing.
Cut the front half of the gas monkey frame off and drop the new/used frame in place and have it welded and boxed. You will save a lot of time keeping that good gas monkey rear frame intact and not to mention the history of who built what on the truck. Just my 2 cents, I like what you do and will keep watching no matter which way you rebuild it.👍👍
Interesting question are you going to be using the title for the 76 frame to remove the salvage designation off the truck since it would greatly increase the value to my knowledge theres nothing illegal about it either
Frame looks good don’t worry about the holes. Painting the frame will be fine just get some good primer. Powder coating is an option too but it’ll probably be expensive.
I've done a bunch of square bodies. There is nothing to worry about there. While salvaging every out from the donor truck, make sure you check the rear end. If its posi it's worth something if its 373 or lower it's worth something.
The two frames that you have, are exactly the same. The holes were in all likelihood drilled in there for some custom work that was probably done on the truck from times past. As for the frame itself, you need to dip it in an anti-rust agent, then get it cleaned and powder coated. The powder coating will hold up a lot better than the paint will. Build your truck.
Hey, Alex, I see you're wearing the gloves I sent you. Glad to see that...no more ripping of flesh on sharp metal objects!! Gotta keep those hands in good shape!
I hated that they never really showed much of the build process on the show. The more you film about the build the Better! Thank you for the Awesome content!
It will cost a little more but powder coating is what you want on the frame. Most pc shops can also dip or bake the frame for you. That truck is going to be around for a long time so should get the best.
The boomerang with hole is something they stamped into the frames whether they used it or not, if they use it, it’s pushed out and I believe either a emergency brake or hard brake line goes there when used. If the first frame is custom, they more then likely filled a bunch of unused holes that the factory put in to cover all the different options available during those years.
I am German, and i suggest to handle the Frame like Porsche. To prevent it against rust, Sandblast it and then Chemical Process called "Fire Zinc plated" and then painting it. Then you have a frame forever and it never will rust. This is what Porsche do also and its one of the best cars in the world with the best Rust protection.
@Hay Mamacita ,well Sir, I have had stuff blasted and immediately powder coated, then when it it gets a stone chip the steel corroded the rust then travels under the powder coating, which then flakes off. Never had that problem when I use POR 15 on my motorbike frames and parts hence my comment is from real life experience. Not saying yours isn't though 😀
Little to add- it looks a great deal for the right part. Keep your frame mechanic buddy close to hand as you go through making the new frame set up for the air ride and the "to the ground" bit! Talk to the powder coat shop about what will make a good undercoat for their stuff. Good Luck- can't wait to see it "on the road again"! FR
Why would you not just take the original Gas Monkey frame to a frame shop and have it straightened. If necessary, splice in some new sections. It would be a lot less work than swapping frames. The number of small holes in the frame rail are minor. Important is the major mounting points and that the new frame is square.
Custom is the base trim level which means no trim. Custom Deluxe steps up to fancy door panels and trim on the windows,dash knobs,cloth seat,lower trim on the outside.
Great progress so far. That cab may be a little crunchy, but it is still better than alot of others in the rust belt, so it's worth some cash to someone in need.. The holes in the frame are either crash crumple zone features that change yearly, or they are part of the weight class of the truck. Nothing to worry about for your project.
Maxim magazine, "On Gas Monkey, you’re always searching for classic cars to rebuild. What’s been your favorite build so far?" Richard Rawlings, "The one we just finished. It’s a ’76 C10 pickup. Its one of the most unbelievable cars we’ve put out of gas monkey so far. The crew wanted to build it, everyone was fired up about it. Every nut, every bolt, everything is custom made."
Alex Rebuilds can you please keep working on this project i’ve been watching for 7 months now and i have been constanly waiting for the C10 video’s the gasmonkey garage history makes this project so much fun to watch and i can’t wait weeks for the next episode lol, keep it up Alex wish i could do something like this
The holes are no big deal the 75 had some different options as well as being the same frame as the 2500 and 3500. The 25 and 35 were just a heaver suspension for the drive train and the upgrades needed otherwise as I recall the frame is the frame. If my memory serves me right the number with stamped into the top of the frame was when they were starting to put the vin number on the frame and a couple other places. PD uses it to trace stolen vehicles when found in the chop shops. You are correct also the number stamped on the side IS the date the frame was made and that was something also new in the 76 models.
Reference the Custom Deluxe badge... 1975-1976 Starting in 1975, Chevy revised the trim level offerings and began offering the luxury Silverado trim that eventually replaced the C/K in 1999. The Silverado took over from the Cheyenne Super as the top trim level. The Custom Deluxe became the base model as the Custom line was dropped, and the Scottsdale edition became available. The 1975 Chevy trucks were a hot product, with almost 750,000 vehicles sold that year. The windshield wiper switch moved to a different location than the previous third-generation C/K models and no longer had back lighting. A quick-release tailgate became standard for the Fleetside models and rain gutters were standardized across all models. Catalytic converters became standard in 1975 for all trucks with a gross vehicle weight rating under 6,001 pounds. The major difference when it comes to appearance is the grille change. From 1975-1976, the grille features three horizontal bars and sits flush with the front. The engine size badge on the grille was removed beginning in 1976.
I would power wash/steam clean the frame, sand blast it and put on some self-etching primer. Then, powder coat it or paint it with urethane epoxy with hardener.
Judging by the area by the inner fender and firewall area, looks to be Moss Gold for the original color. As for the bolts its just there for whatever options they put on from the factory. If you know what bolt holes you'll be using you can weld up the others. Personally I'd sandblast it then powder coat it
I would say those are just various holes for holding down lines and wiring etc for diff. options and yes someone could have added more. If you are worried weld them up. I would like to have that grille and that hood chrome strip off this parts truck you just got. Those are old school aftermarket stuff from like the 90's. I would say if you are going to have that frame blasted, get it powder coated. That or maybe something like por15 but that stuff is more meant to go on over rust. Another option once blasted could be simple automotive paint, like epoxy primer, base coat then clear coat. Either of those options you may want to wait until you got the porterbuilt stuff in to make sure you don't need to cut or weld. I would at least hit the blasted frame with something like self etch or epoxy primer or maybe even something like wd40 extended protection or whatever it's called to keep it from rusting.
Fuck that come to actual england your lucky in a 2012 vehicle is rust free. Most cars on our roads are less than 10years old. Rain, salt, mud, free way grime kills metal over hear.
Good idea to get a donor truck for the frame. I learn a lot on this channel when you ask questions of your subscribers. Looking forward to see how this project turns out!
Bro i sent u one for $900 no rust on any body panels good frame and had engine and trans even though you dont need it but you could’ve used the fenders and stuff and probably saved money
Personally I'd blast it and use a por 15 style paint with a couple coats of single stage black urethane over top if I was doing it for myself. But if cost was no issue, I'd have it blasted and powder coated. Dipping and e-coat would be a good option too.
It's the same frame, just factory drilled holes for different features/options.. we used to fill the ones we didn't need with weld and grind it smooth and then box it.. (takes away any weakness and flex)
sandblast it, box it, fill holes with welder, then powder coat it.. start with a great platform to build on. Gas Monkey did a good Job but you with a little effort can go a better Job on what they started.
boxing the frame is the most importent thing.. something most people forget..
Hi Alex, it is very important! Gas Monkey was customizing frame to apply lower air suspension. Compare old and new frame before painting "new old" frame. Good luck, it is very difficult project! But you are the best car rebuilder! :D
They customized the entire frame. You can see it at 1:09 in this video. ua-cam.com/video/N8o1EksQ6TU/v-deo.html
Custom deluxe is the chrome package, interior package . The frame is fine. The holes are mounting points for wiring and other components. This build is a great project for you, old school learning, they where built simple. Thanks for sharing your story.
It's just the bottom of the barrel trim package nothing special about it
The Custom Deluxe was the mid grade trim of the C/K trucks.
All that matters is that the measurements between key locations match up.
Media blast the frame, then give it a coating of POR15, then paint it. You're golden.
Don't worry about the different holes. Frames are the same just different years and different manufacturing techniques between the years. Good Find!!
He should box the frame in before putting everything back together those truck frame were not that strong from the start.
@@snoopu2601 I agree boxing the frame will give it some extra streng where it needs it.
Great score on that parts truck. Over here in Nova Scotia, the parts would have fallen off in your hands, crumbling. That would have been a re-builder truck here, and we'd have been happy to find one that good.
Same in Ontario, so much salt on the roads in winter. I am amazed at southern cars sitting in a field for 30 years look like 10 to 15 year old vehicles here....
@@DrButcher1971 Same as here in Norway too then..salty roads 7 months a year.That parts truck will be worth 3-4000 dollars over here.
DUDE! coming from Ontario Canada .... that body is in amazing shape .... "rust on the frame" to us usually means something else lol!! SWEET BUILD. Good luck!!
Those holes are just slight changes from year to year. Nothing to worry about, those two C-frames are a match. Also, Custom Deluxe was the base model trim. The trims went from Custom Deluxe, Scottsdale, Cheyenne, up to the fancy Silverado. Notable difference between those two trucks, 1976 was the first year they had shoulder belts. That 75 wont have the upper mounts for seat belts. I actually found that out putting a 75 cab on my 76 haha. Trivia fact, 1976 was the last year GM painted the motors Orange. Can't wait to see more!
2:55 70's Chevy truck trim levels:
Base-level == Custom
Mid-level == Custom Deluxe
High-level == Cheyenne
Top-line == Cheyenne Super
-
12:15 These holes "witness marks" are used to align specific assembly equipment assisting work on the line in the automated days before robots. These would often change while upgrading the assembly process.
-
A custom frame would have been nice but, not worth the effort in a rebuild like this. Thanks for doing your part and keeping this old iron on the road.
Top line was Silverado !
You’re thinking of the 1968-1972 trucks, once the “square body” was introduced in ‘73 they added Scottsdale and Silverado and got rid of the Cheyenne super and Cheyenne. So it’d go Custom and Custom Deluxe to Scottsdale to Silverado.
Good find Alex on the parts truck. Those frames are exactly the same. Everything will cross over. I would sand blast and then powdercoat the frame. Those old body panels are in high demand and they aren't that bad. List them for sale and recoup some cash!
Congrats on securing the replacement frame. My only advice and I hope you do follow, is to staffer the frame. Summit Racing sells a kit for a low price that will fix the stuped week point in the OEM frame. Best of luck bro.
Actually, the body on that is in good shape, rust is minimal and easily fixed. Square bodies like that are in high demand in my area and I've seen trucks like this without a motor go for $2,000 to $3,000
Totally agree with you there that is in great shape for my area
Yeah if even if he didn’t get a tittle those are better panels than most the ones around my area too
I'm a native Michigander and when Alex said "rough shape", I was like "oh man, you don't know what rough shape for a '75 really is!"
@@d00dEEE I agree in New England there would be hardly anything left but rust.
It came with a clean title and if anyone is interested in those parts email me I’ll sell them for cheap
Forget painting the frame, powdercoat it. It last longer and handles rocks hitting it.
After sandblasting, you can buy spray bedliner kits that you can tint any color. It's easy to spray, and will last forever. BisforBuild painted one of his cars with it, so keep that in mind for a finish after sandblasting.
I love this C10 project,thank you for sharing bro...
Those two frames are exactly the same where it counts. Don’t get distracted by those holes etc. These trucks have lived a long life and who knows what previous owners have attempted. You’ve got this and did the right thing by sourcing a new frame.
Cool that you could help out the DIY Gang, giving him the old cab
I bought one new in 75....Custom, Custom Deluxe,Camper Special, Scottsdale, Silverado were all Trim Packages denoting how ''Fancy'' your Truck was! Silverado eventually became the Model Name of the Truck instead of a top line Trim Package. I got two-tone paint (light blue with a white cove) chrome trim, hubcaps and bumpers with the "Custom Deluxe'' 350/350 combo Drivetrain and I sprung for a matching Perris Valley Camper Shell.....BadAss!
Lmao "Spray can or Mayco" can't tell the difference 😂😂😂😂 that was halarious 😁
I guess Macco won't be calling...
Won’t take my car there for any amount of money and wouldn’t promote a company I don’t recommend to my viewers!
I fell outta my chair when he said that too funny but so true !
Compared to earl scheib macco pumps out show finish paint jobs😂
@@sinformant totally forgot about him ...ill paint your car for 29.99 or somthin like that ... yeah they were worse thats for sure !
Hi, Don't Mind the Holes . Weld Them up , then re - drill What You Need . box The front Half of the Frame to prevent Twisting . add a reinforcement plate Under The Steering Box Area ( Bad for cracking the Mounting Holes ) . Just Start at the Front and work to the Rear . Great Work !!!!
the chem dipping mentioned is prolly to take the paint off without taking the zinc coating off the frame , prolly can blast it and then zink coat and powdercoat it
I would make sure the rear section of the Gas Monkey frame is square and cut it and weld it together to the new front section (Back half). I’m sure a lot of custom work was done to the rear. The front of the frame looks like it was at least notched for the steering components. Would have loved to see this truck go to someone who knew c10’s but it’s great to see someone learning about them.
Minimal rust that would be a great find here in Michigan we have 2019 cars with more rust than that
I've seen surface rust on cars at the dealer here.. lmao 😅 My buddy's 11 f150 is easily worse than this at only 100k
For real. I test drove a Hummer H3 a few years ago in Novi. It has more rust than the donor truck. I left it sitting there...
So true. My 11 ram has more than that.
C'mon guys, have your vehicles get an annual an oil based rust profing done. I keep my cars ay least 15 to 18 years ! And I live in the Montreal, Québec Canada area, the kingdom of road salt and colder temps than Michigan ! Followed by weird freezing rains than down again. The very worst temps for a car or truck.
Them chevys from 99 to 07 are the worst here in west side of Michigan
The holes are pre drilled in the frame on the assembly line so that there is multiple uses for the frame. The same frame is used for the short box step side(fender side). The extra holes are pre drilled for braces that support the steps. There is a small step between the fender and the cab on those models. There was also an option of duel gas tanks. Don't worry it will all line up.
And exhaust hangers for 6 cylinders
pls don't forget to show the sandblasting process...
That's one of the videos I'm editing at the moment! My rebuild of my Nissan Skyline tho! 🤷🏻
This dipshit doesn’t know what a fucking custom deluxe is. It’s a model like Serra or Denali
@@recklessriding2139 shut your mouf
WOW those cab mount bolts came out easy!! All bolts seemed easy.. where i’m from I would have been heating shit up or cutting them off... Nice work... having a forklift is pretty handy too...
always save the old bolts, they always come in handy in the future.
True. here in the workshop we have buckets and buckets of old bolts nuts and washers.You never know when you will need them. Same for computer screws, before throwing away an old cpu case I take off everything useful till the last bolt, even buttons, leds etc. They could be useful in a future, also a fuckton of them can fit on a little box that takes no space at all.
Very true
Do all the welding work before painting it. I bet you have to weld brackets for 4 link or for the airbag brackets. I think powdercoating could be an another choice for painting it, if you find a company that has a big oven for the frame. Keep up the good work!
Custom Deluxe is a trim package
I believe it’s a base trim package or a step above
I believe that the Custom Deluxe had a headliner and the scrolling in the plastic panels.
@@danhooper8652 yes and the "Custom Deluxe" badge of course.
@@danhooper8652 it's the bottom trim level it didn't come with a headliner or anything special
I think they came custom, custom deluxe, Silverado and Cheyenne
It’s the base trim, had nothing but the bare bones of a work truck
When I sandblasted my frame, I sprayed prep and etch on it followed by a self etching primer followed by primer sealer. 1 year later no issues.
The Frame will work just fine. Change the body mounts and paint it.
Don't forget to spray all the frame bolts with some kind of Bolt/Nut loosen-er and let it sit and soak, so when it comes to take the bolts/nuts off it should make things a little easier for you. And like ppl were saying Boxing the frame and hide all the wires inside for the clean look. Awsome Vids
I'd take some measurements and confirm the rear part of frame on the gas monkey truck is square, cut it off and graft, fish plate it. It'll save you the trouble of having to notch the new frame and fab the 4 link.
73-85 I think are the same. I would call someone like LMC or Brothers Trucks, these guys are the experts on these trucks. I think the holes doesn't matter. small holes can be welded or drilled as needed. It is the big things, like mounts and measurements.
Custom Delux came with radio, some chrome.
and ~~~~ the "Custom Deluxe" badge never forget that.
Only two things you need to worry about. Is the frame still square? If you haven't checked it for square, You should. It also wouldn't hurt to check the bumper mounts "Frame horns" to make sure they aren't warped. You should also check it for a twist. Thee frames are not very solid. For all, you know this truck may have seen a ditch or two. Checking for these things can save you a lot of headaches in the long run. Powder coat will last longer than paint will.
I wouldn’t be concerned about the holes. It will all fit together perfect
Powdercoat the frame. Or paint it after you strip and primer it. Keep up the hard work you are doing Alex.
I would reccomend sand blasting it and having it powder coated instead kf pajnting. It will be alot more rust resistant. I wish i had the wheels. Lol
Vaughn Hill id say do all the fab work first, then sand blast it and immediately powder coat the whole thing.
Yes! Powder coat it!
POR-15 on that frame
Powder coating is no substitute for good quality paint, it don't stick long term.
@@erikrenner Totally agree, powder coating is Crap
Looks like it was a sand color factory and it's easier to pull the dog house in one piece and not remove ever fender , wheel well , or core support . As for the rest of the parts truck you can sell the extras and double your money . This is a great build and can't wait for the next episode 😁
That half moon cutout in the frame is for the emergency brake cable
Frame is the same. From 1973-1986 frame should be the same. The only thing to look for is where the steering box bolts on frame would crack sometimes. Great find. Cannot wait to see it come together
The frames are the same go ahead and use it. I have built a few c10s over the years and the years are 73-80 for that front end style, and a 81-87 for the more square front end the frame can be used, the biggest difference is at the front where the bumper mounts but can be made to work.
The 81-87 trucks can be fitted with the grill and radiator mount from the 88-91 Suburban Blazer and Crewcab. In the frame there may be some different holes but every hole you need will likely be there. The only time frame swapping is an issue is when going from 2wd to 4wd or using suburban frame for a pickup as the rails are different.
Sandblast the frame, box the frame and get the frame powder coated. Powder coating lasts longer and it's more durable. Especially on the frame. Plus you'll need to box the frame if you don't want any flexing with the power the engine is pushing.
Aaaaaand there goes the possibility of a Maaco sponsorship.
Cut the front half of the gas monkey frame off and drop the new/used frame in place and have it welded and boxed. You will save a lot of time keeping that good gas monkey rear frame intact and not to mention the history of who built what on the truck.
Just my 2 cents, I like what you do and will keep watching no matter which way you rebuild it.👍👍
Interesting question are you going to be using the title for the 76 frame to remove the salvage designation off the truck since it would greatly increase the value to my knowledge theres nothing illegal about it either
Frame looks good don’t worry about the holes. Painting the frame will be fine just get some good primer. Powder coating is an option too but it’ll probably be expensive.
POR-15 the frame
😯😯Wooah that's cool! At 3:42 I haven't seen those backglass louvers on a c10 in forever. Wonder if they're rare?
You can buy the window louvers aftermarket still
Rare or not, they are looking cool.
I've done a bunch of square bodies. There is nothing to worry about there. While salvaging every out from the donor truck, make sure you check the rear end. If its posi it's worth something if its 373 or lower it's worth something.
Use the GM FENDERS AND PARTS INSTEAD OF THE AFTERMARKET PARTS IF YOU CAN.
Yep, he'll find out all about how well aftermarket sheet metal fits on these trucks.
sjd73ss yup, learned that the hard way
The two frames that you have, are exactly the same. The holes were in all likelihood drilled in there for some custom work that was probably done on the truck from times past. As for the frame itself, you need to dip it in an anti-rust agent, then get it cleaned and powder coated. The powder coating will hold up a lot better than the paint will. Build your truck.
There are suttle differences depending on year and place of manufacturing.
Hey, Alex, I see you're wearing the gloves I sent you. Glad to see that...no more ripping of flesh on sharp metal objects!! Gotta keep those hands in good shape!
I hated that they never really showed much of the build process on the show. The more you film about the build the Better! Thank you for the Awesome content!
It will cost a little more but powder coating is what you want on the frame. Most pc shops can also dip or bake the frame for you. That truck is going to be around for a long time so should get the best.
Good thing that LMC trucks.com sells OEM parts for that truck
The boomerang with hole is something they stamped into the frames whether they used it or not, if they use it, it’s pushed out and I believe either a emergency brake or hard brake line goes there when used. If the first frame is custom, they more then likely filled a bunch of unused holes that the factory put in to cover all the different options available during those years.
Trim level. Lowest was Custom Deluxe. Next was Cheyenne, highest was Silverado.
member57 see you got it!
Edit you forgot Scottsdale.
Hello Alex, I am Anton from the Netherlands and I follow you how you rebuild this C10, Thank you for the Awesome content!
You should have the frame powder coated, not painted
I am German, and i suggest to handle the Frame like Porsche. To prevent it against rust, Sandblast it and then Chemical Process called "Fire Zinc plated" and then painting it. Then you have a frame forever and it never will rust. This is what Porsche do also and its one of the best cars in the world with the best Rust protection.
I’ve seen those frames get sandblasted and powder coated instead of painted.. I heard it’s better protection for the frame.
IMO powder coating is no substitute for good quality paint, Just quicker and quicker = shody 😁
@Hay Mamacita ,well Sir, I have had stuff blasted and immediately powder coated, then when it it gets a stone chip the steel corroded the rust then travels under the powder coating, which then flakes off. Never had that problem when I use POR 15 on my motorbike frames and parts hence my comment is from real life experience. Not saying yours isn't though 😀
Little to add- it looks a great deal for the right part. Keep your frame mechanic buddy close to hand as you go through making the new frame set up for the air ride and the "to the ground" bit! Talk to the powder coat shop about what will make a good undercoat for their stuff. Good Luck- can't wait to see it "on the road again"! FR
Why would you not just take the original Gas Monkey frame to a frame shop and have it straightened. If necessary, splice in some new sections. It would be a lot less work than swapping frames. The number of small holes in the frame rail are minor. Important is the major mounting points and that the new frame is square.
Custom is the base trim level which means no trim. Custom Deluxe steps up to fancy door panels and trim on the windows,dash knobs,cloth seat,lower trim on the outside.
You could have saved a lot of time by pulling the front clip as an assembly.
That’s the problem with boobs with too much money that have zero knowledge of restoration. Still a square body with a salvage title.
Great progress so far. That cab may be a little crunchy, but it is still better than alot of others in the rust belt, so it's worth some cash to someone in need.. The holes in the frame are either crash crumple zone features that change yearly, or they are part of the weight class of the truck. Nothing to worry about for your project.
Rust is lighter than CarbonFibre
Custom weight reduction. 😆
Maxim magazine, "On Gas Monkey, you’re always searching for classic cars to rebuild. What’s been your favorite build so far?"
Richard Rawlings, "The one we just finished. It’s a ’76 C10 pickup. Its one of the most unbelievable cars we’ve put out of gas monkey so far. The crew wanted to build it, everyone was fired up about it. Every nut, every bolt, everything is custom made."
Make sure it’s not cracked at the steering gearbox. Those truck are notorious for the frame cracking there.
I’ll check out!
Alex Rebuilds can you please keep working on this project i’ve been watching for 7 months now and i have been constanly waiting for the C10 video’s the gasmonkey garage history makes this project so much fun to watch and i can’t wait weeks for the next episode lol, keep it up Alex wish i could do something like this
I've never seen a 2 wheel drive with a cracked frame only seen cracked frames on 4 wheel drives.
creekfreakjr keep the bolts tight and you won’t have that issue. Had these trucks 4x4s for years now never an issue.
@@mikem3906 i've seen 'em on both types of frames
Lot of hard work. Looking forward to the build. Good job.
The holes are probably just crash crush points they starting adding more every year
The holes are no big deal the 75 had some different options as well as being the same frame as the 2500 and 3500. The 25 and 35 were just a heaver suspension for the drive train and the upgrades needed otherwise as I recall the frame is the frame. If my memory serves me right the number with stamped into the top of the frame was when they were starting to put the vin number on the frame and a couple other places. PD uses it to trace stolen vehicles when found in the chop shops. You are correct also the number stamped on the side IS the date the frame was made and that was something also new in the 76 models.
Id be more worried about that brilliant gm design fuel tank on the outside of the frame.
#genius
Use the right gas cap! Not like NBC, with an igniter on it!
As long as the cab mounts are in the same spot every thing should follow suit. The holes are nothing to worry about.
To me, it looks the original color of the Truck was gold.
That's what I was thinking too, by the looks of the firewall and behind the fenders on the cab.. Maybe even a factory gold/white two tone.
Powder coat frame, you should drill all your holes and do your welding before any kind of painting
Your speech pattern and articulation remind me of when I do talk-to-text and want it to be dead-on accurate :)
Reminds me of a kid reading a presentation in front of the class. Good content love the truck build can’t wait to see it finished again
Like me. If I don’t talk like this it sounds like I’m mumbling lol
Don't worry about a few holes in the frame that are different - running production changes - strip it blast it paint it, just go.
you know the back of the other frame is custom for the air ride
Reference the Custom Deluxe badge... 1975-1976
Starting in 1975, Chevy revised the trim level offerings and began offering the luxury Silverado trim that eventually replaced the C/K in 1999. The Silverado took over from the Cheyenne Super as the top trim level. The Custom Deluxe became the base model as the Custom line was dropped, and the Scottsdale edition became available. The 1975 Chevy trucks were a hot product, with almost 750,000 vehicles sold that year. The windshield wiper switch moved to a different location than the previous third-generation C/K models and no longer had back lighting. A quick-release tailgate became standard for the Fleetside models and rain gutters were standardized across all models. Catalytic converters became standard in 1975 for all trucks with a gross vehicle weight rating under 6,001 pounds. The major difference when it comes to appearance is the grille change. From 1975-1976, the grille features three horizontal bars and sits flush with the front. The engine size badge on the grille was removed beginning in 1976.
Ive never seen a trans cooler like this
I loved the dog jumping in while you pushed it in, good looking Shepherd, loving watching your progress!
Why aren’t you sending the frame to be straightened Seems like far less work
that's what i was thinking too good frame man can fix it i know i could
@Dirtyd23 at least get the professional opinion. An if it's as bad as you say it is. Then no problem. Enjoy yourself with more work
I would power wash/steam clean the frame, sand blast it and put on some self-etching primer. Then, powder coat it or paint it with urethane epoxy with hardener.
Custom deluxe = Trim Package?
Duh
These trucks are great trucks and a good one to rescue and restore. Good luck.
remember, aftermarket sheet metal will not fit as well as oem.
Judging by the area by the inner fender and firewall area, looks to be Moss Gold for the original color. As for the bolts its just there for whatever options they put on from the factory. If you know what bolt holes you'll be using you can weld up the others. Personally I'd sandblast it then powder coat it
Should’ve called art Morrison for a chassis.
That would be a pretty penny
Christopher Sotta It was a (pretty) truck. anything worth doing is worth doing right.
I would say those are just various holes for holding down lines and wiring etc for diff. options and yes someone could have added more. If you are worried weld them up. I would like to have that grille and that hood chrome strip off this parts truck you just got. Those are old school aftermarket stuff from like the 90's. I would say if you are going to have that frame blasted, get it powder coated. That or maybe something like por15 but that stuff is more meant to go on over rust. Another option once blasted could be simple automotive paint, like epoxy primer, base coat then clear coat. Either of those options you may want to wait until you got the porterbuilt stuff in to make sure you don't need to cut or weld. I would at least hit the blasted frame with something like self etch or epoxy primer or maybe even something like wd40 extended protection or whatever it's called to keep it from rusting.
You think that truck is rusty you should come up to new england that is I nothing compared to rust up here lol
Fuck that come to actual england your lucky in a 2012 vehicle is rust free. Most cars on our roads are less than 10years old. Rain, salt, mud, free way grime kills metal over hear.
As a mainer I've seen & worked on trucks that aren't even a year old with rotted out beds , rockers, & cab corners
@@edwilko8819 you beat me to it, can't be any worse than old England 😂
Karts and Cameras hahaha I’m in nh wish we could just go down the road and get a truck in that condition
@@briangoudreau5793 I'm in new Hampshire to😁 what part?
Good idea to get a donor truck for the frame. I learn a lot on this channel when you ask questions of your subscribers. Looking forward to see how this project turns out!
Bro i sent u one for $900 no rust on any body panels good frame and had engine and trans even though you dont need it but you could’ve used the fenders and stuff and probably saved money
What's your location
Lonnie's Garage (Puppetkicker) tulsa
I'm in Tulsa!!!! If it's a SWB with a title I'm interested!!!
Dave Mosley look on market place
I would have never guessed those tires on the donor truck were "turbo action". I'm glad it said it on sidewall. LOL
Those predrilled hole are not anything special it looks pretty good........well done sell off what you don't need.
Personally I'd blast it and use a por 15 style paint with a couple coats of single stage black urethane over top if I was doing it for myself. But if cost was no issue, I'd have it blasted and powder coated. Dipping and e-coat would be a good option too.
Custom Deluxe was the lowest trim level. Scottsdale then the Silverado was the top.
We had a Custom Delux - straight 6, three on the tree and no radio.
I have a 80 K20 Custom Deluxe with a 350 and SM465. No headliner and a vinyl seat
I believe it was just below Cheyenne.
what about the Cheyenne that was just below the Silverado
Paul Nagyar Silverado, Scottsdale, Cheyenne, Custom.
The new frame is in great shape man I wouldn’t be worried about those holes at all