6:00 Load Panel - this is brilliant idea moving stuff over to loads panel!!! The market is so flooded of about people's Solar setup; I'm so glad I found this video. How to install the inverter into the main service panel circuit breaker. Where it will recharge. The battery banks through the inverter.
@simplyidiotic1 all the AC goes into the sub panel. I just turn off breakers. You would need a two pole breaker to shut off the 240v ac together. Any place after the inverter would work.
@@simplyidiotic1 He likely didn't install one because it wasn't an install that had permits or inspections. The disconnect would go outside the home where it could be used by the utility to shut down the system.
that’s all super cool. Love the issues as there always alot of them. Many times the interface w these systems are bad. Our location Had to be all off grid. A challenge in Utah w 0F to 105F and snow/clouds. We design for dec 21 sun angle and clouds. Your adding 3kw is essentially to grab that sun fast in winter. Summer is easy. You should also have the angle be more for winter. One other comment on previous video is measurements for shadows needs to be done at solar noon not noon for optimum position. Sorry to be picky. We also converted as much as possible to direct DC as inverters waste power converting AC. But we are completely off grid so critical power usage and generation. Love the channel and videos. Beautiful
Nice vid... I would just move the black hot wires over to your sub panel and leave the white neutral wires in the main panel, it would save some time...
I saw the disclaimer. Your install is alot better than the installs I've from work done by qualified electricians. I'm sure they've learnt a thing-or-two. Beautiful and informative video, but can't wish you can conceal all the exposed cables. Especially the ones coming from you non-essential panel, supplying the input of the inverter, though. Imagine what would happen if they got hooked onto something, or got "yanked" onto something... That way it will be safer and alot neater. Just my opinion. Otherwise very informative video. Thank you.
Seth, You might need to remove the bonding jumper in your critical loads panel. Since there's the Inverter in-between your grid "feed" and your loads panel. Fault currents might not have a proper path through your electrical system. Gauges might be slightly undersized for your utility feed to the inverter. Good video. 🤜🤛 P.S. sorry for being keyboard wizard 😅
Definitely need to remake up all of your small gauge wires using crimp on ferrules as those nifty spring terminals are not designed to utilize stranded wires. Enjoyed your excellent content from your channel for the past year.
Excellent level of detail, thorough step by step tutorial, and clean install. if you are not an electrician I bet you're an engineer. What's your battery bank's capacity?
In relation to switching the grid off and on to supplement the battery, see if the system has an auxiliary out put that an trigger a contractor so the system turns the grid on as needed. That will save blackouts if you're not monitoring closely,) and you may be able to trigger remotely as well. Also the ports that you showed at 2:30 are not Ethernet. (One may be, but the others will not). They are RJ45 connectors. There may be magic smoke let out if you plug network devices into those ports.
Excellent work showing great knowledge of dealing with different systems. Well done.. There are some notes that I hope you will accept from me.. First, it is preferable to use circuit breakers for direct current, not alternating current, for photovoltaic cells.. bootlace ferrule must be used for the end of the wires and not relying on the nail to avoid loosening inevitably in the future due to the heat and ductility of the ends of the copper wires to avoid fires ... keeping great work
Thank you for watching. The two breakers in the small dedicated box are both DC current. One has 450v of solar power and the other has 51 to 57v of DC for the battery. The house breakers are all AC but designed for that. I had not even heard of bootlace ferrules. They are not required in the USA.
@@LandtoHouse Yeah, the rest of the world thinks we're crazy for not using ferrules. After installing my Tesla Wall charger (secondary CB box and a lot of other fixin's) using ferrules, I'll never do an electrical project that uses stranded wires without ferrules again. They are truly amazing. I'd be willing to bet that they get added to The Code book within the next few years. So how much of an epiphany moment is it when you first use ferrules? Remember how you felt the first time you used Wago connectors? It's around double that feeling. : ) I had an electrician come out and check my work. I was expecting him to wonder about the ferrules, but instead he just nodded his head and gave me the all clear. Just found your channel. Now I'm binge watching. Maybe a bit much, as it's now 6:00 A.M., and I still haven't gone to bed. Thumbs and subs!
Beast Level unlocked, that is a major step up. Vestwoods is getting some valuable field pre-release testing from you working out the bugs to use this as an off-grid primary instead of UPS.
This inverter and battery combo is great. There are a few things that need to be ironed out but after a month of use the system has done well. I think I am at 155kwh from solar so far.
Good job man Thanks for the instructional video I am looking to do something similar soon. I was wondering how to hook my controller inverter to my main panel. Thanks
If the circuit breaker for the battery has polarity (see if you have + and - symbols in the connections points) it will catch fire if tripped in the reverse current direction (when the batteries are being charged for example). It's very dangerous to use polarized breakers with DC current, DC arcs are extremely hard to quench because it lacks a zero crossing point like we have with AC. I highly recommend to use NH1 fuses instead (rated for gG characteristics and 125 Vdc). Much safer since they are made of ceramic material.
The breaker indicates 500v DC. I do not see a polarity on the case. I have been warned that I need to turn off the PV switch before disconnecting the solar or battery. (Turning off the battery first of course.)
Excellent job!! Any way to modify the over voltage alarm limit? Isn't the equipment supposed to be designed for 140 volts per split line? And why then does the alarm activate at 125 volts per line? Does a step down transformer resolve the problem?
Great video as always! Too big of a system for my use but the way you installed your critical load box was super useful for me so thank you! For your grid panel, check out load center filler plates! They're only a few bucks and reduce the risk of a shocking finger slip
Nice. Happy to hear it was helpful. I looked on youtube for a while to find a step by step how to on the critical loads panel install and was not successful. I hope that this video helps people to do this.
@@LandtoHouse I was having no luck with finding inverter to panel install videos as well. Thank you for this one. Quick questions though. I'd be completely off grid with my system so would I be able to set up my gasoline generator through a breaker into the AC inputs of a inverter/charge controller unit to charge my battery bank in case Sunlight is low? Should I have to control the power coming from, say a 13,000 watt generator, to the AC input, and is there usually a setting in the inverter for this?
This is nearly identical to the configuration I want and have been trying so hard to find a representation of online. Thank you so much! I can now confidently order the components I need. I have rate shifting so a similar system will me when I use the grid, it’ll only be $0.05 per kWh. Woot!
@@LandtoHouse Thank you I was searching for this exact breakdown as the AC output most people are just testing with a power bar and a few test loads. I see now why the critical loads panel is used. I wonder if your utility would allow back feeding power from your solar and how that would change your layout.
@traktion9 In order to backfeed solar into the grid, you have to have a bi directional meter and the system has to be signed off by a professional. It can be quite expensive to accomplish those things for a minimum payout. My power cost is $0.21/kwh the payback is only $0.08 to $0.10 /kwh
Thanks for testing this unit and was about this unit as well. According to the data sheet it looks awesome, but checking out Will Prowse videos and his problems with the unit and your tests, the software of this unit it bad, on all who are selling these like EG4. It's not charging the batteries correctly, your panels are so many, you should charge the 15kW battery in one hour. I hope a software update that really works, will help. Hope it works out for you soon. This should run a 30kW per month house hold without any problems
I have an update about the charging rate. I had the unit set to 25 amp at 52.1v now I have it set to 110amp and it will pull in 6kw from solar. As for the other settings I have been off grid on the unit for 60 days with no problems. But the grid tie mode does seem to have issues.
Hello, thank you for the video. Well done. I see you have a 100-amp breaker on the sub-panel feeding your critical loads and only a 40-amp breaker from the main panel to the inverter. How did you figure out the size breaker for both? I will be using the EG4 6000XP with the EG4 power PRO battery and 8K watts of solar. I have mostly everything figured out, but there is no instruction in the manual that addresses the breaker capacity from the grid and to the loads. Also, why did you separate the grounding? Why can't you use the same ground? My main panel has the neutral and ground bonded.
You are connected to AC i might be wrong but do we need additional ground rod? Its going off AC grid which has the ground neutral bond and the rod earth ground. I just learning and from what i have read if using ac grid the main panel holds ground neut bond no additional ground rod. Great video though the sub panel area is really what i was wanting to see, the westwood looks similar to eg4 6000xp.
I like the way you explain how to wire up the unit, simple for everyone can understand, I would like you to explain more on the batteries voltage and the needed panel wats needed to recharge the batteries and the unit is it 24v or 48v? Thank you.
Thank you for watching. This battery system is 48 V. The charge controller can accept solar panel voltage up to 500 V. My array is at approximately 430 V. The closer you get to the maximum voltage, and the lower the amperage, the better low light power you will produce.
Would definitely recommend time out plug ins to protect the appliances with compressors, my freezers and refrigerators would stall and cut out when it switches from grid to battery, very hard on them
After switching the inverter mode to battery priority the system is working very well. When I go from grid to battery or battery to grid there is zero down time.
Travis If that's happening to your loads then the grid and inverter outputs must be out of phase. Land to house seems to have the same syncing system as I have. When he turns his grid breaker on the inverter syncs it's output to the grids then internally switches the loads to the grid. Travis, it sounds like your inverter isn't syncing with the grid before allowing the grid to take the load. I hope I explained that correctly.
If you have not seen the EG4 18k I would highly recommend checking it out. I replaced the 8k with the new one. Such a nice machine. That is on my DIYVOLTS channel: ua-cam.com/video/pKNQ-36VI7o/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
You mentioned you had another system that's grid-tied that you'd use to supplement this system? I wonder if/how one could connect a grid-tied system to this inverter. I supported the Vestwoods kickstarter and I'm now waiting to get this system. In the mean-time, I'm researching on how to integrate it with my existing Enphase micro-inverter PV system. I'd heard someone mention in the DIY solar forum that one may be able to connect a grid-tie system to the GEN input.
I now have 2 of these inverters running in parallel and they are working well. I'm curious how yours is working. I see you have other inverters shown in other videos. Do you still have this one? Is it still working well?
thanks for an informative video. I was almost ready to buy a Victron Multiplus 2 but my hesitation is 3000kw only single phase. I would like a hybrid like this Vestwoods unit, I think 8000kw is about right as my house uses all LED lighting mostly DC fans and large separate refrigerator and freezer (subzero). my house was set up to use a generator but I never bought one as they cost in Costa Rica is just to high when you add in the propane tank, plumbing etc. im not ready to add color yet but we are located in perfect area to do so, instead I have a few questions of you can offer help, 1. my main panel is 200amps and in front is a box with magnetic switch to cut in a generator. next the main has a 2 pole 100 amp feed to a 42 slot sub panel all the lights, fans, outlets, and kitchen appliances. the main 200amp panel has the AC's and pumps. we never measure the actual load that the sub panel pulls but I just bought a meter and watt meters to check all my loads. using an 8kw inverter could that no support about 67 amps max draw? hence I could just downsize the feed breaker from 100 to 60amps. 2. what is the max input current from the grid to charge LiFePO4 batteries? can I use rack batteries like SOK 48v/100amp units with this inverter ? 3. could you just use CNN fuse instead of breaker? between batteries and inverter? since i have no solar. I might add later money permitting. thanks again for the video. when is this inverter available?
I always have to toss that "not an electrician" disclaimer at the front of a video like this. slows down some of the "youtube professional" electricians.
Good video. If I may: I think a 8kW inverter could become not enough soon. And it seems some you cableing is to large enough to carry full amperage for hours, especially your 8 gauge going to your sub panel. My 2 cents.
It turns out that the cable has to be very specific to this inverter and battery. I wound up cutting all but 2 wires and it worked perfectly after that. I don't remember which ones those are at the moment. But the manual has the pin out for those cables.
nice. went with growatt 3k. and server rack batt... off gird in town... self consumption, no grid backfeed. or permits.. wagos ok for one light... weak on bigger loads .. yikes
Everything is very clear but the only question in my mind is about the critical load panel. You skipped over the bit where you figure out which critical loads need to be moved over to their panel. In my mind you should put the entire house on that critical load panel and just keep your usage to < 8 kW. I really wanted to see a more detailed discussion of how you figure out and design the critical loads
My apologies for leaving out critical information. This 8K inverter is not capable of handling my hvac system, hot water, and dryer. Everything else is in the critical load panel.
I'm wondering if it would be easier to move the main grid wires out of the panel then route it back to the original panel (via a transfer switch to select grid or inverter) instead of moving the hot and neutral for every circuit to a new panel.
Yes it does. I did not show the ct clamps. I already have another system that limits. There are two ct clamps that go around the main power and the inverter won't push power back to the grid.
Hi Seth, Thanks for your contribution into Micro hydro systems. Is it possible to have No batteries with a micro hydro? Since my grid usage is more than my hydro input I'm thinking of using a three phase turbine and connect to a three phase input inverter converting to single phase output 230v ac UK. Connected to the grid. I want a island CT protection clamp and also a limiter so that I don't feed into the grid instead if there is any eccsess power fro the turbine then I would like it to dump it into my hot water tank. So My thinking is that my turbine feed is prioritised and the grid supplies the rest when the demand is more than what the turbine can produce. Is this at all possible?
This is an 8000 W inverter. Which means the maximum amperage that it can pull is 66 amps. I've been running this inverter off grid for this year and had no problems with washing machine, dishwasher and refrigerator..
AKA: Magarevo brand (from Alibaba Sunwave Tech store). Funny- different name but same logo. Signature Solar was importing these also as EG4 brand when Will Prowse reviewed in 2022. Now Signature sells them under new Westwood brand apparently on their website. Will was frustrated by the EG4 version and the Magarevo (from Chinese supplier) version of these- could not get them it work 100%.Sent the EG4 unit back to Signature Solar.
This inverter is still running my house. The only issue I had was not enough time for the swap between solar and battery in the morning. A simple setting fixed that. I am about to change out this unit for an eg4 18k. That video will be on my diyvolts channel in a couple weeks. @diyvolts
The 1/0 cable was included with the battery. The 8awg was suggested in the inverter manual. The solar wire is 10awg and only carries 7amps. The battery breakers are rated for 500v. The battery only puts out 52 to 57v.
I have a question about the breaker you are using for the battery. It looks to be like it is only a 125 amp breaker. How are you able to use it for 250 amps? I have been trying to find MCBs for a battery distribution panel I want to build and need 250amp dc breakers, but I havent been able to find any.
It is a special way of connecting a large battery cable together. I took a bar of copper and made a U shape so that it would fit inside the double breaker. I then used a mechanical lug to connect the positive battery cable across both of the breakers poles. This combined the 125 and 125 amp into a single 250 amp. Both sides of the breaker will need the U shaped capper bar with mechanical lug.
I am not an expert so this might be a dumb question, couldn't you just leave the grounds on the main panel and use them there? Another question, Why did you need to install a grounding rod if the subpanel is just inches away from the main panel? I thought you only need to do that if the subpanel is in a separate building, like a detached garage!
You wouldn't have to extend the neutral to the critical loads panel and it will still work if you tie the neutrals of the two panels together. Is it code or something and that is why you do?
It's code and for safety. The current could go back to the main panel and take an incorrect path to ground causing a shock hazard. I believe he should have moved the ground wire too. I'm still learning myself so I'm trying to research if it was necessary. Ground and neutral are bonded in the main panel so I'm 99% sure it should have been moved also.
I really like your set up, but you really need to use the proper connectors for the wires entering the boxes. It will make your system look that much better and safer!
@@LandtoHouse Your battery cables should have some sort of strain relief or connector on them when entering a box. At 27:10 your flex conduit connectors are incorrect. Most important single wires are not allowed to be run alone. They should be enclosed all the way from box to box in conduit or they are to remain in their jacket like 12/2 or 14/2 NM cable. Anytime a cable or wire enters a box or panel it should go through a connector and not just an open hole in the box. I know you are not an electrician and you are doing a great job and I like your work. If you didn't live so far away I would hire you as an assistant. Not criticizing just trying to help you make it look more professional.
This inverter will do 8000w. I only have receptacles and lights along with microwave and fridge on this sub panel. The big loads such as hvac and hot water are still on the grid.
Hi, any chance you could make a clip explaining what you did to sort your battery comms error? im battling and can't seem to get it sorted, as well as a quick run through the menu settings. The manual feels somewhat crptic to me
Turns out the battery issue was a cable problem. The cable has wires that swap over in the connectors then I had to cut all but 2 or 3 wires and it worked. I need to make an update video. The system has worked flawlessly as an off grid system.
I am asking this question as someone who is new to this I have two magnet generators one in a windmill and one in a alternator they seem different the windmill needs high speed to make basically 24 bolts the alternator needs lower speed to make close to 24 volts (90 to 110 revolutions per minute) is it the coil windings wire thickness difference in the two or what is the difference?
Correct there is no backfeed. I have not turned on the grid in over 30 days. Tomorrow I connect another 3kw of solar panels. Should get this system off grid indefinitely.
Is it possible to skip the critical loads panel, run the grid power directly to the inverter, and power your existing home panel off of the inverter output?
Can the inverter be run with Current Transformers for those of us that want to run while connected to the grid without putting any power into the grid? (just using the inverter/solar to offset the loads so there is minimal draw from the grid)
Yes this inverter was shipped with 1 CT clamp to go over the main power incoming to the house. That would let the inverter supplement the house with solar.
It seems battery priority should tell the inverter to run off batteries even with grid power. Then when batteries get to low battery levels the grid would automatically power the load and bring the battery back to full charge. Once the battery is at full charge the system should return to the battery powering the grid.
Isnt that extra strain on the battery then, should be able to leave it in grid priority mode or bypass mode without interruption when a blackout happens. He mentioned there was a buffer setting they adjusted but seems to have had no effect.
@@LandtoHouse noice, it's going to be fine but with such a fire hazard , better have 3 or more extinguishers and learn about real fire scenarios with some UA-cam videos
And call me crazy, but that bottom switch that he says is the grid cannot be the grid that may be the back up power grid fuse but if you’re an electrician, you would know that the grid fuse is actually the main fuse all the way to the top of the breaker panel on your houseso when you’re doing this do what he did and put your solar grid all the way on the bottom as far away from the main panel that comes from the grid outside
Oh no. Unfortunately, this apparently this is one of those bizarre companies that refuses to list a single price for a single component. I've learned my lesson on that peculiar red flag. Being a business owner myself, I can tell you there is no legitimate excuse for that, no matter what the variables are. That's too bad, I'm always open to options in brands, but that practice is an immediate eliminator for me..
It would take a lot of solar and battery storage and several inverters to run a house that size. My hvac can use 30kw when the heat strips turn on and the home is only 1900sf.
Did u take a breaker out n replace it with a double breaker? My panel is full. There is nowhere I can install the double breaker to connect to inverter. Thank you
Looks like some people aren't paying attention to the video...... but not my question.... my question is how are you putting in oh i don't know several thousand volts of PV? I mean, 48panels times let's say 40 volts each..... 1920 volts DC..... How do you reduce that?
Good question. The inverter has multiple mppt charge controllers. That means you run strings of solar panels max input voltage of 500v. So 12 of my panels equal 432v at 11 amps. I can run two sets of these for a total of 24 panels at 432v each. 6000w.
@LandtoHouse I only ask because I want an inverter for my house. I altar have 41 380 watt solar panels, but they are already tired into my grid system. They are literally 46.7 volts each....... but they each have a micro inverter which is where my problem starts.
The 100a breaker in your sub is being fed by an 8awg wire. That is way too small of a wire for 100a. Super unsafe. You need to drop the breaker size or up the wire size. I would seriously considering a T class fuse for your battery. There is zero chance that breaker could handle a dead short. Did this have to pass any sort of inspection? Did you obtain an interconnect agreement with your utility? That inverter seems like nothing like problems - it doesn't do what you wanted.
Hello, a nice professional looking install. But I don’t understand the necessity of going through all the trouble and expense of a critical load panel: after I move my critical loads-which to me include refrigeration/freezer, furnace, induction cooktop (gotta eat), Wi-Fi/router, TV (gotta watch for news)-the only things left in my main panel would add up to only 300-400 watts, all of which my 6kw split phase inverter and 20.4kwh batteries can handle. What am I missing?
In my panel I have a 5400w clothes dryer, 4000w hot water heater, 3000w cook stove, and well pump. Those large items can't run on my solar inverter. That's why I need those still on the main.
Full Micro Hydro install Awesome!
ua-cam.com/video/f62o9SNwmEU/v-deo.html
Do you also make videos that show everything from A - Z (A is when you receive all the components)?
you don't need a ground rod at 22:38, just connect it to the main panel ground
6:00 Load Panel - this is brilliant idea moving stuff over to loads panel!!! The market is so flooded of about people's Solar setup; I'm so glad I found this video. How to install the inverter into the main service panel circuit breaker. Where it will recharge. The battery banks through the inverter.
One of the best solar videos for DIYers. Lots of more popular UA-camrs in this field do not cater to the people who would actually do a DIY project.
Thank you. I agree. So many videos are surface level and don't show the details.
@@LandtoHouse hey one question. Did you not install an AC disconnect? If you were to, where would it go?
@simplyidiotic1 all the AC goes into the sub panel. I just turn off breakers. You would need a two pole breaker to shut off the 240v ac together. Any place after the inverter would work.
@@simplyidiotic1
He likely didn't install one because it wasn't an install that had permits or inspections.
The disconnect would go outside the home where it could be used by the utility to shut down the system.
that’s all super cool. Love the issues as there always alot of them. Many times the interface w these systems are bad. Our location
Had to be all off grid. A challenge in Utah w 0F to 105F and snow/clouds. We design for dec 21 sun angle and clouds. Your adding 3kw is essentially to grab that sun fast in winter. Summer is easy.
You should also have the angle be more for winter. One other comment on previous video is measurements for shadows needs to be done at solar noon not noon for optimum position. Sorry to be picky.
We also converted as much as possible to direct DC as inverters waste power converting AC. But we are completely off grid so critical power usage and generation.
Love the channel and videos. Beautiful
Nice vid...
I would just move the black hot wires over to your sub panel and leave the white neutral wires in the main panel, it would save some time...
I thought about that but was told I could not keep them in the main panel. So I just moved over everything.
You would not pass inspection .
I came to say the same thing. Other videos I've watched they only moved the black wire over.
I saw the disclaimer. Your install is alot better than the installs I've from work done by qualified electricians. I'm sure they've learnt a thing-or-two. Beautiful and informative video, but can't wish you can conceal all the exposed cables. Especially the ones coming from you non-essential panel, supplying the input of the inverter, though. Imagine what would happen if they got hooked onto something, or got "yanked" onto something... That way it will be safer and alot neater. Just my opinion. Otherwise very informative video. Thank you.
Seth,
You might need to remove the bonding jumper in your critical loads panel. Since there's the Inverter in-between your grid "feed" and your loads panel. Fault currents might not have a proper path through your electrical system. Gauges might be slightly undersized for your utility feed to the inverter. Good video.
🤜🤛
P.S. sorry for being keyboard wizard 😅
Definitely need to remake up all of your small gauge wires using crimp on ferrules as those nifty spring terminals are not designed to utilize stranded wires. Enjoyed your excellent content from your channel for the past year.
You should be using wire ferrules for the terminals in the inverter stranded is not recommended without them
Excellent level of detail, thorough step by step tutorial, and clean install. if you are not an electrician I bet you're an engineer. What's your battery bank's capacity?
In relation to switching the grid off and on to supplement the battery, see if the system has an auxiliary out put that an trigger a contractor so the system turns the grid on as needed. That will save blackouts if you're not monitoring closely,) and you may be able to trigger remotely as well. Also the ports that you showed at 2:30 are not Ethernet. (One may be, but the others will not). They are RJ45 connectors. There may be magic smoke let out if you plug network devices into those ports.
Excellent work showing great knowledge of dealing with different systems. Well done.. There are some notes that I hope you will accept from me.. First, it is preferable to use circuit breakers for direct current, not alternating current, for photovoltaic cells.. bootlace ferrule must be used for the end of the wires and not relying on the nail to avoid loosening inevitably in the future due to the heat and ductility of the ends of the copper wires to avoid fires ... keeping great work
Thank you for watching. The two breakers in the small dedicated box are both DC current. One has 450v of solar power and the other has 51 to 57v of DC for the battery. The house breakers are all AC but designed for that. I had not even heard of bootlace ferrules. They are not required in the USA.
@@LandtoHouse Yeah, the rest of the world thinks we're crazy for not using ferrules. After installing my Tesla Wall charger (secondary CB box and a lot of other fixin's) using ferrules, I'll never do an electrical project that uses stranded wires without ferrules again. They are truly amazing. I'd be willing to bet that they get added to The Code book within the next few years. So how much of an epiphany moment is it when you first use ferrules? Remember how you felt the first time you used Wago connectors? It's around double that feeling. : )
I had an electrician come out and check my work. I was expecting him to wonder about the ferrules, but instead he just nodded his head and gave me the all clear.
Just found your channel. Now I'm binge watching. Maybe a bit much, as it's now 6:00 A.M., and I still haven't gone to bed.
Thumbs and subs!
great video the only thing i would have done different is bring the wires in the back of the panel . it looks great
That would make the install cleaner. The top install made this easier for me at the time.
Beast Level unlocked, that is a major step up. Vestwoods is getting some valuable field pre-release testing from you working out the bugs to use this as an off-grid primary instead of UPS.
This inverter and battery combo is great. There are a few things that need to be ironed out but after a month of use the system has done well. I think I am at 155kwh from solar so far.
Good job man
Thanks for the instructional video
I am looking to do something similar soon. I was wondering how to hook my controller inverter to my main panel. Thanks
If the circuit breaker for the battery has polarity (see if you have + and - symbols in the connections points) it will catch fire if tripped in the reverse current direction (when the batteries are being charged for example). It's very dangerous to use polarized breakers with DC current, DC arcs are extremely hard to quench because it lacks a zero crossing point like we have with AC.
I highly recommend to use NH1 fuses instead (rated for gG characteristics and 125 Vdc). Much safer since they are made of ceramic material.
The breaker indicates 500v DC. I do not see a polarity on the case. I have been warned that I need to turn off the PV switch before disconnecting the solar or battery. (Turning off the battery first of course.)
A t class fuse would be appropriate here.
Hey thanks for sharing with us, I have the same 8k inverter I would like to get tech support for it, out curiosity where did you get tech support
Hey you should look into Growatt inverters. I have one and I am able to set the priorities as solar, battery then grid once the battery is too low.
Excellent job!! Any way to modify the over voltage alarm limit? Isn't the equipment supposed to be designed for 140 volts per split line? And why then does the alarm activate at 125 volts per line? Does a step down transformer resolve the problem?
Sharp setup Seth. Nicely done sir.
Thank you. This unit has been working very well for the past month. Happy to have it done.
Great video as always! Too big of a system for my use but the way you installed your critical load box was super useful for me so thank you!
For your grid panel, check out load center filler plates! They're only a few bucks and reduce the risk of a shocking finger slip
Nice. Happy to hear it was helpful. I looked on youtube for a while to find a step by step how to on the critical loads panel install and was not successful. I hope that this video helps people to do this.
@@LandtoHouse I was having no luck with finding inverter to panel install videos as well. Thank you for this one. Quick questions though. I'd be completely off grid with my system so would I be able to set up my gasoline generator through a breaker into the AC inputs of a inverter/charge controller unit to charge my battery bank in case Sunlight is low? Should I have to control the power coming from, say a 13,000 watt generator, to the AC input, and is there usually a setting in the inverter for this?
This is nearly identical to the configuration I want and have been trying so hard to find a representation of online. Thank you so much! I can now confidently order the components I need. I have rate shifting so a similar system will me when I use the grid, it’ll only be $0.05 per kWh. Woot!
I searched a while on youtube to find a full install. No real luck. So I made this video. I am happy to hear it helped!
@@LandtoHouse Thank you I was searching for this exact breakdown as the AC output most people are just testing with a power bar and a few test loads. I see now why the critical loads panel is used. I wonder if your utility would allow back feeding power from your solar and how that would change your layout.
@traktion9 In order to backfeed solar into the grid, you have to have a bi directional meter and the system has to be signed off by a professional. It can be quite expensive to accomplish those things for a minimum payout. My power cost is $0.21/kwh the payback is only $0.08 to $0.10 /kwh
You installed the unistrut upsidedown
Actually inside out 🤷🏻♂️
Check out my workshop channel: www.youtube.com/@sethcraftworkshop
The ct clamps are ideally for export block aka know as no power back to the grid
Thanks for testing this unit and was about this unit as well. According to the data sheet it looks awesome, but checking out Will Prowse videos and his problems with the unit and your tests, the software of this unit it bad, on all who are selling these like EG4. It's not charging the batteries correctly, your panels are so many, you should charge the 15kW battery in one hour. I hope a software update that really works, will help. Hope it works out for you soon. This should run a 30kW per month house hold without any problems
I have an update about the charging rate. I had the unit set to 25 amp at 52.1v now I have it set to 110amp and it will pull in 6kw from solar.
As for the other settings I have been off grid on the unit for 60 days with no problems. But the grid tie mode does seem to have issues.
@@LandtoHouse thanks for the info
You have it to close to the wall an panel. The heat will sit their an slowly cook the electronics
Hello, thank you for the video. Well done. I see you have a 100-amp breaker on the sub-panel feeding your critical loads and only a 40-amp breaker from the main panel to the inverter. How did you figure out the size breaker for both? I will be using the EG4 6000XP with the EG4 power PRO battery and 8K watts of solar. I have mostly everything figured out, but there is no instruction in the manual that addresses the breaker capacity from the grid and to the loads. Also, why did you separate the grounding? Why can't you use the same ground? My main panel has the neutral and ground bonded.
You are connected to AC i might be wrong but do we need additional ground rod? Its going off AC grid which has the ground neutral bond and the rod earth ground. I just learning and from what i have read if using ac grid the main panel holds ground neut bond no additional ground rod.
Great video though the sub panel area is really what i was wanting to see, the westwood looks similar to eg4 6000xp.
I like the way you explain how to wire up the unit, simple for everyone can understand, I would like you to explain more on the batteries voltage and the needed panel wats needed to recharge the batteries and the unit is it 24v or 48v? Thank you.
Thank you for watching. This battery system is 48 V. The charge controller can accept solar panel voltage up to 500 V. My array is at approximately 430 V. The closer you get to the maximum voltage, and the lower the amperage, the better low light power you will produce.
Why did you keep the ground neutral bond in the critical loads panel?
Hi, very good and easy to understand video, where can i get the pv and battery disconnect?
Would definitely recommend time out plug ins to protect the appliances with compressors, my freezers and refrigerators would stall and cut out when it switches from grid to battery, very hard on them
After switching the inverter mode to battery priority the system is working very well. When I go from grid to battery or battery to grid there is zero down time.
Travis If that's happening to your loads then the grid and inverter outputs must be out of phase. Land to house seems to have the same syncing system as I have. When he turns his grid breaker on the inverter syncs it's output to the grids then internally switches the loads to the grid. Travis, it sounds like your inverter isn't syncing with the grid before allowing the grid to take the load. I hope I explained that correctly.
Thanks for the information, I want to install one at my friend's house please help.
If you have not seen the EG4 18k I would highly recommend checking it out. I replaced the 8k with the new one. Such a nice machine. That is on my DIYVOLTS channel: ua-cam.com/video/pKNQ-36VI7o/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
You mentioned you had another system that's grid-tied that you'd use to supplement this system?
I wonder if/how one could connect a grid-tied system to this inverter.
I supported the Vestwoods kickstarter and I'm now waiting to get this system. In the mean-time, I'm researching on how to integrate it with my existing Enphase micro-inverter PV system. I'd heard someone mention in the DIY solar forum that one may be able to connect a grid-tie system to the GEN input.
I now have 2 of these inverters running in parallel and they are working well. I'm curious how yours is working. I see you have other inverters shown in other videos. Do you still have this one? Is it still working well?
thanks for an informative video. I was almost ready to buy a Victron Multiplus 2 but my hesitation is 3000kw only single phase. I would like a hybrid like this Vestwoods unit, I think 8000kw is about right as my house uses all LED lighting mostly DC fans and large separate refrigerator and freezer (subzero). my house was set up to use a generator but I never bought one as they cost in Costa Rica is just to high when you add in the propane tank, plumbing etc. im not ready to add color yet but we are located in perfect area to do so, instead I have a few questions of you can offer help,
1. my main panel is 200amps and in front is a box with magnetic switch to cut in a generator. next the main has a 2 pole 100 amp feed to a 42 slot sub panel all the lights, fans, outlets, and kitchen appliances. the main 200amp panel has the AC's and pumps. we never measure the actual load that the sub panel pulls but I just bought a meter and watt meters to check all my loads. using an 8kw inverter could that no support about 67 amps max draw? hence I could just downsize the feed breaker from 100 to 60amps.
2. what is the max input current from the grid to charge LiFePO4 batteries? can I use rack batteries like SOK 48v/100amp units with this inverter ?
3. could you just use CNN fuse instead of breaker? between batteries and inverter? since i have no solar. I might add later money permitting.
thanks again for the video. when is this inverter available?
Did you an interlock on main breaker box? If no, then why?
Great video. Learned a lot and I know, You Are Not An Electrician. Thanks
I always have to toss that "not an electrician" disclaimer at the front of a video like this. slows down some of the "youtube professional" electricians.
Clearly NOT an electrician, I cringed at this installation.
Good video. If I may: I think a 8kW inverter could become not enough soon. And it seems some you cableing is to large enough to carry full amperage for hours, especially your 8 gauge going to your sub panel. My 2 cents.
I was just looking at this inverter on ebay. How is it holding up? Any troubles ? Thanks for the video
It worked flawlessly until I replaced it with the eg4 18k two months ago. Only thing is that it runs a little loud.
Great video. ..step by step explanations are the best...
Do you have books you recommend on this?
Good job but the PV wires shouldn't't be in the AC panel and conduit. NEC
Hie which cushion setting did adjust
Very nice video, can you explain what changes had to be done to the communications cable to get it to detect the battery 🔋
It turns out that the cable has to be very specific to this inverter and battery. I wound up cutting all but 2 wires and it worked perfectly after that. I don't remember which ones those are at the moment. But the manual has the pin out for those cables.
nice. went with growatt 3k. and server rack batt... off gird in town... self consumption, no grid backfeed. or permits.. wagos ok for one light... weak on bigger loads .. yikes
Everything is very clear but the only question in my mind is about the critical load panel. You skipped over the bit where you figure out which critical loads need to be moved over to their panel. In my mind you should put the entire house on that critical load panel and just keep your usage to < 8 kW.
I really wanted to see a more detailed discussion of how you figure out and design the critical loads
My apologies for leaving out critical information. This 8K inverter is not capable of handling my hvac system, hot water, and dryer. Everything else is in the critical load panel.
I'm wondering if it would be easier to move the main grid wires out of the panel then route it back to the original panel (via a transfer switch to select grid or inverter) instead of moving the hot and neutral for every circuit to a new panel.
Very helpful 👍
Great Video-Question-does the inverter have a power limiting option? I am not wanting to put any power back on the grid.
Yes it does. I did not show the ct clamps. I already have another system that limits. There are two ct clamps that go around the main power and the inverter won't push power back to the grid.
Thanks, Seth. Any idea when this goes on the market?
@@nickheschke6841 I am not sure. I hope soon. The battery just got out of kickstarter. My house has been doing well on this system
Hi Seth, Thanks for your contribution into Micro hydro systems. Is it possible to have No batteries with a micro hydro? Since my grid usage is more than my hydro input I'm thinking of using a three phase turbine and connect to a three phase input inverter converting to single phase output 230v ac UK. Connected to the grid. I want a island CT protection clamp and also a limiter so that I don't feed into the grid instead if there is any eccsess power fro the turbine then I would like it to dump it into my hot water tank. So My thinking is that my turbine feed is prioritised and the grid supplies the rest when the demand is more than what the turbine can produce. Is this at all possible?
Can you do a load test to see how many amps the inverter can put on without the grid?
This is an 8000 W inverter. Which means the maximum amperage that it can pull is 66 amps. I've been running this inverter off grid for this year and had no problems with washing machine, dishwasher and refrigerator..
I have two of these inverters running in parallel. I'm interested to hear how your inverter is running so far? Can you give an update?
I ran 2 megawatts through my vestwoods inverter. it was great. I have now installed an EG4 18k and it is amazing.
Great video, just wondering that you passed electrical inspection in the first time?👍
AKA: Magarevo brand (from Alibaba Sunwave Tech store). Funny- different name but same logo. Signature Solar was importing these also as EG4 brand when Will Prowse reviewed in 2022. Now Signature sells them under new Westwood brand apparently on their website. Will was frustrated by the EG4 version and the Magarevo (from Chinese supplier) version of these- could not get them it work 100%.Sent the EG4 unit back to Signature Solar.
Hello, how is this inverter working to this day is it any good? have you encounter any problems with it, thanks!
This inverter is still running my house. The only issue I had was not enough time for the swap between solar and battery in the morning. A simple setting fixed that.
I am about to change out this unit for an eg4 18k. That video will be on my diyvolts channel in a couple weeks. @diyvolts
I may have missed you saying so, but how did you size your conductors and breaker(s)?
The 1/0 cable was included with the battery. The 8awg was suggested in the inverter manual. The solar wire is 10awg and only carries 7amps. The battery breakers are rated for 500v. The battery only puts out 52 to 57v.
Is the sound in background from the fans of the inverter and do u plan to put some kind of filter over the fans to keep dust out of the inverter?
Why not just one large jumper for negative and ground?
I have a question about the breaker you are using for the battery. It looks to be like it is only a 125 amp breaker. How are you able to use it for 250 amps?
I have been trying to find MCBs for a battery distribution panel I want to build and need 250amp dc breakers, but I havent been able to find any.
It is a special way of connecting a large battery cable together. I took a bar of copper and made a U shape so that it would fit inside the double breaker. I then used a mechanical lug to connect the positive battery cable across both of the breakers poles. This combined the 125 and 125 amp into a single 250 amp. Both sides of the breaker will need the U shaped capper bar with mechanical lug.
White is nuetral not negative
Woops. Thanks.
Nicely done👍.Did you consider adding wind power ?
Thank you. There is almost no wind here. I think its the layout of the mountains.
I am not an expert so this might be a dumb question, couldn't you just leave the grounds on the main panel and use them there? Another question, Why did you need to install a grounding rod if the subpanel is just inches away from the main panel? I thought you only need to do that if the subpanel is in a separate building, like a detached garage!
Their website goes nowhere.
US distribution?
US support?
Looks like same unit as EG4 and Megarevo offer. Like the features but where can you get one?
You wouldn't have to extend the neutral to the critical loads panel and it will still work if you tie the neutrals of the two panels together. Is it code or something and that is why you do?
It's code and for safety. The current could go back to the main panel and take an incorrect path to ground causing a shock hazard. I believe he should have moved the ground wire too. I'm still learning myself so I'm trying to research if it was necessary. Ground and neutral are bonded in the main panel so I'm 99% sure it should have been moved also.
@@foltz61 I can understand if the 2nd panel was a subpanel, but if it is a right next to the main panel, it's almost one bigger panel.
@@awesomedee5421 Size doesn't matter in this case 🤭. It's a sub panel powered by another source.
I really like your set up, but you really need to use the proper connectors for the wires entering the boxes. It will make your system look that much better and safer!
What connectors do you mean?
@@LandtoHouse Your battery cables should have some sort of strain relief or connector on them when entering a box. At 27:10 your flex conduit connectors are incorrect. Most important single wires are not allowed to be run alone. They should be enclosed all the way from box to box in conduit or they are to remain in their jacket like 12/2 or 14/2 NM cable. Anytime a cable or wire enters a box or panel it should go through a connector and not just an open hole in the box. I know you are not an electrician and you are doing a great job and I like your work. If you didn't live so far away I would hire you as an assistant. Not criticizing just trying to help you make it look more professional.
Interesting video. Can't you trickle charge your battery at night from your water turbine as I didn't hear it mentioned in the video?
This inverter and battery are on a separate solar install. The hydro is connected to my grid tie limiter system.
You will need more batteries for off grid with all those circuits, what has been your max ac draw, is 3000 watts enough?
This inverter will do 8000w. I only have receptacles and lights along with microwave and fridge on this sub panel. The big loads such as hvac and hot water are still on the grid.
@@LandtoHouse Awesome I thought it was only 3k my bad
The 8KW Inverter how much?where can buy?
Hi, any chance you could make a clip explaining what you did to sort your battery comms error? im battling and can't seem to get it sorted, as well as a quick run through the menu settings. The manual feels somewhat crptic to me
Turns out the battery issue was a cable problem. The cable has wires that swap over in the connectors then I had to cut all but 2 or 3 wires and it worked. I need to make an update video. The system has worked flawlessly as an off grid system.
I am getting this inverter soon. How has it been running for you?
So far it has pushed 1.6 mega watts into the house from solar. No issues once the morning solar startup was set to 30 second delay.
I am asking this question as someone who is new to this I have two magnet generators one in a windmill and one in a alternator they seem different the windmill needs high speed to make basically 24 bolts the alternator needs lower speed to make close to 24 volts (90 to 110 revolutions per minute) is it the coil windings wire thickness difference in the two or what is the difference?
Is it amps
How loud are the fans when there is no load ?
There is a light Humm. Loud Enough that I keep the door closed to the utility room. Now when 6kw of solar hits it is rather loud.
This method doesn't back feed the grid right? And will it still function if there is no power coming from the grid for weeks?
Correct there is no backfeed. I have not turned on the grid in over 30 days. Tomorrow I connect another 3kw of solar panels. Should get this system off grid indefinitely.
Shouldn't you have also moved the ground wire?
Great idea EMP proof
Perfect explanation
Thank you. This setup is still running my home and doing well.
Looks like a similar inverter to the eg4 8k
True. Same design only name-branded differently.
Is it possible to skip the critical loads panel, run the grid power directly to the inverter, and power your existing home panel off of the inverter output?
Yes this mode would be supplemental. There us a ct clamp that would go on one leg of the main power to prevent back feeding to the grid.
Can the inverter be run with Current Transformers for those of us that want to run while connected to the grid without putting any power into the grid? (just using the inverter/solar to offset the loads so there is minimal draw from the grid)
Yes this inverter was shipped with 1 CT clamp to go over the main power incoming to the house. That would let the inverter supplement the house with solar.
@@LandtoHouse Thank you.
Is that a rebranded Megarevo?
There are several brands selling the same inverter. Eg4, vestwoods, megarevo, liniotech, bluesun... the list goes on.
It seems battery priority should tell the inverter to run off batteries even with grid power. Then when batteries get to low battery levels the grid would automatically power the load and bring the battery back to full charge. Once the battery is at full charge the system should return to the battery powering the grid.
Isnt that extra strain on the battery then, should be able to leave it in grid priority mode or bypass mode without interruption when a blackout happens. He mentioned there was a buffer setting they adjusted but seems to have had no effect.
Quite the BEAST, super happy for yaa !
It has run all that I have tossed at it so far.
@@LandtoHouse noice, it's going to be fine but with such a fire hazard , better have 3 or more extinguishers and learn about real fire scenarios with some UA-cam videos
Doesn't the instructions say 8" of clearance on each side of the unit? Plus NEC code says 15" clearance from the center of any circuit box.
So are the items on your main panel run by solar?
The few main panel circuits are still on the grid.
@@LandtoHouse I would like my whole home on solar. And battery for backup. I was sure if this would work.
i dont know about the us but in the uk this has several things classified as a c1 / c2 or an immediate or potential danger to life.
And call me crazy, but that bottom switch that he says is the grid cannot be the grid that may be the back up power grid fuse but if you’re an electrician, you would know that the grid fuse is actually the main fuse all the way to the top of the breaker panel on your houseso when you’re doing this do what he did and put your solar grid all the way on the bottom as far away from the main panel that comes from the grid outside
Oh no. Unfortunately, this apparently this is one of those bizarre companies that refuses to list a single price for a single component. I've learned my lesson on that peculiar red flag. Being a business owner myself, I can tell you there is no legitimate excuse for that, no matter what the variables are.
That's too bad, I'm always open to options in brands, but that practice is an immediate eliminator for me..
We have 4800 sq ft, 4 heat pumps, & an external well, so what do we need to have continuous power.
It would take a lot of solar and battery storage and several inverters to run a house that size. My hvac can use 30kw when the heat strips turn on and the home is only 1900sf.
Did u take a breaker out n replace it with a double breaker? My panel is full. There is nowhere I can install the double breaker to connect to inverter. Thank you
Just add two tandem breakers into your panel to make space for the new double pole breaker. Easy solution.
You'll have room once you move circuits/breakers over to the subpanel.
@Brian Carlson yes that's what I did .. Thank you
That load to panel wire from inverter just look way to small and worry me that it would over heat and melt
The max amps that the inverter can push is 67 amps. 120v x 67amp = 8000w. The 6awg or 8awg wire can handle that no problem.
Nice tutorial
good video i learn alot
Looks like some people aren't paying attention to the video...... but not my question.... my question is how are you putting in oh i don't know several thousand volts of PV? I mean, 48panels times let's say 40 volts each..... 1920 volts DC..... How do you reduce that?
Good question. The inverter has multiple mppt charge controllers. That means you run strings of solar panels max input voltage of 500v. So 12 of my panels equal 432v at 11 amps. I can run two sets of these for a total of 24 panels at 432v each. 6000w.
@LandtoHouse I only ask because I want an inverter for my house. I altar have 41 380 watt solar panels, but they are already tired into my grid system. They are literally 46.7 volts each....... but they each have a micro inverter which is where my problem starts.
Already
where do I find the Westwoods inverter
This inverter might not be ready yet from vestwoods. However it is available by eg4 and bluesun.
The 100a breaker in your sub is being fed by an 8awg wire. That is way too small of a wire for 100a. Super unsafe. You need to drop the breaker size or up the wire size.
I would seriously considering a T class fuse for your battery. There is zero chance that breaker could handle a dead short.
Did this have to pass any sort of inspection?
Did you obtain an interconnect agreement with your utility?
That inverter seems like nothing like problems - it doesn't do what you wanted.
This system has been upgraded to the eg4 18k. Working flawlessly now. That upgrade video will soon be on my DIYVolts channel.
Hello, a nice professional looking install. But I don’t understand the necessity of going through all the trouble and expense of a critical load panel: after I move my critical loads-which to me include refrigeration/freezer, furnace, induction cooktop (gotta eat), Wi-Fi/router, TV (gotta watch for news)-the only things left in my main panel would add up to only 300-400 watts, all of which my 6kw split phase inverter and 20.4kwh batteries can handle. What am I missing?
In my panel I have a 5400w clothes dryer, 4000w hot water heater, 3000w cook stove, and well pump. Those large items can't run on my solar inverter. That's why I need those still on the main.
@@LandtoHouse Good grief! You need to get rid of those appliances! ;)
Pretty sweet system!
It has worked well. I have a few more videos on this one showing some modifications.
I'm having bms communication fail. Can u help?
I had an issue with the ethernet cable that was sent with the battery. It is directional. You might need a different cable.
@LandtoHouse which plug did u use from the inverter? I'm connected to the bottom left.. is that the right plug for bms?
Thanks so much.