I picked up a great trip from this one. In the past I had never added my flaked grains on top. I had always just mixed them in. From yesterday's brew day it looks like adding the last will result in a 50% trub loss reduction on the fermenter.
The biggest improvement I made to my fermentation is using an oxygenation kit. I use to always fall short of my target FG until I started to actually aerate the wort (not just shake the fermenter)
I also started running PBW through my Clawhammer system after seeing Kyle and the boys do that on their channel. I like the clamp use for the chiller! I always struggle with that thing falling over. I'll have to do that on my next brew.
FYI Alex, here's what the manufacturer of PBW says how to use their product. Rinse off vessel or surface to get rid of as much soil as possible. Dissolve 1-2 ounces per gallon for kettles and 3/4 ounces per gallon for fermenters, kegs, tanks, and other equipment. (May vary depending on soil load) If circulation cleaning, heat to 130°-180° F and circulate for at least 30 minutes. If soaking, heat to 140° and soak for 4 hours or allow to soak cold overnight. Rinse surface or vessel. It also says on the plastic containers of PBW when rinsing use same temperature water to rinse. Many UA-camr's don't give complete information when it comes to homebrewing. A word to the wise, read the manufacturer's instructions don't go by what someone claims on the UA-cam. Otherwise your beer may turn out infected or with some other off flavor. Happy brewing.
@@egruber50 yeah man, I've read the instructions for pbw but thanks for copy pasting it I guess? 🤷 It's the circulating it through the system that's exciting.
Great video, I love your homebrewing setup and how you film your brew days. I use a magnet on the outside of the flask, to keep the stirring bar from escaping while I pitch the yeast.
Nice choice. This Hop is the best for hot uses if you wanna preserve aromas, because has a huge hop aroma impact even when used in whirpool, some time better than other hop when used in DH. (Scott Janish's Book "The New IPA").
I have a whirlpool arm mounted permanently in my kettle, it's called the "spin cycle" from Brew Hardware. It's a low profile weldless mount. It may fit with the clawhammer basket? Kinda fun to have the option if it would fit that system. In that kettle, I tee the whirlpool arm with a sparge system in my basket and run it for the whole mash. 🍻
Will it help if u don’t use the hop spider for better hop contact?? Meaning…. I saw u have that huge basket and was wondering if u emptied it and used it as a hop basket so the hops whirlpool better ?? Just loooking for ideas to use less hops because I only do 10 gal batches and give most of it away. Your thoughts??
just got to the bit where you mentioned the latte, aparently thats protein and its 50/50 people who skim it off, i never used to but have recently started and skimming off that brown latte crud from the top ive found i have a cleaner taste in the end
Hi just a dumb idea stir bars are magnet and you if had a metal ojbect under the flask it would attract it and not fall in to fermentor. Try with stuff at hand in your brewiere
21 IBUs for a dipa is more in the oat cream/ milkshake IPA territory, I made an epic oat cream IPA last year, 6.2% and 18 IBUs, used vanilla infused vodka, about 15-20ml if it, 13% of the grist was flaked oats and 6% flaked barley, rest was pilsner malt & 250g lactose 210gm hops just in the whirlpool, citra, mosaic & eldorado, 50g citra, 50g mosaic, 50g eldorado dry hop at high krousan & 40,40 & 40 of each on day 6/7 very hazy, a bit of hop burn, juicy, resinous, tropical, deffinatley my favourite IPA I've done so far but none of my family liked it, that's why I brew alot of light beers with not alot of hop aroma, some dark beers like British dark mild's and light lagers but with kveik cause I live in Australia. Lol Cheers
Hmm, I mash in a cooler with a false bottom. I don’t recirculate the wort during mashing, I don’t mash out at a higher temperature, and I whirlpool by stirring. I don’t even own a pump. I always oxygenate with an aquarium pump, sterile filter and carb stone. I always hit my numbers. Am I too old school?
Yeah Ibus is really tricky with neipas i have done an neipa at 12 ibu that turned out way to bitter and I have done one at 45 ibus that turned out just right and the ones in between kind of have been a bit of hit and miss
Why hazey? When I was 9 years old my commercial brewing dad impressed apon me to make sure the beer is clear. The first taste of a beer is with your eyes. Then your nose then the taste. what is with the haze?. Oh by the way I love your channel. Please keep it up.
The only beer I'm aware of that is intended to be served with yeast in suspension is hefeweizen. For pretty much any other beer, yeast suspension means bad quality, which makes it understandable to form the heuristic that cloudy means bad quality. And that heuristic would have served you well until relatively recently. The introduction of hazy IPA presents an additional beer style that isn't possible to achieve without the haze, as the haze is due to the elevated polyphenol content that provides the beers rich aroma and flavour profile. The short answer for why this only happened recently is that polyphenol rich hops basically didn't exist until about 30 years ago, and even if they did, the packaging technology required wasn't widely available until about 1970 and was politically shunned by "proper brewers" until far more recently due to initiatives like CAMRA. Even if it weren't, the brewing processes required to produce them consistently and commercially viably has only been developed in the last 20 years. You might have struggled to find reliable information on how to brew a good hazy beer as little as 5-10 years ago. We are still learning more about how to brew this style of beer well. If you want to dig deeper, this is the long answer: First the hops: Historically beers were hopped primarily in the boil with traditional varieties such as Saaz, Hallertau, Fuggles, Challenger, etc which have a relatively low polyphenol content providing the more subtle aroma profile we associate with traditional beer. Within the last 30 years, many modern hop varieties were cultivated that have much higher polyphenol content. These enable more hop aroma forward beers than were previously possible. When the polyphenol levels in the beer rise, they form a stable haze in the beer, as it's effectively an emulsion. These Polyphenols break down in the presence of oxygen via oxidation, resulting in an unpalatable, bitter, brown/purple, dirty dish water beer, with little to none of that aroma left. Hazy beers therefore require oxygen free packaging which casks and crown top bottles struggle to provide consistently. They can go bad in hours when exposed to air. Fermentation and packaging technology: It's not uncommon for traditional beer styles to be fermented in open topped fermentation vessels in the UK. Modern stainless conical fermentation vessels and air locks allow for the beer to be brewed in an oxygen free environment. Cask ale should be consumed within 5-7 days of tapping as the head space is topped up from the air in the celar, which exposes it to oxygen and microbes that begin making it go off. Any beer unsold on day 5-7 of a cask was lost profit as it had spoiled. Crown cap bottles seals are not 100% perfect and allow for some gas exchange, making it difficult to ensure quality of oxygen sensitive beers. Artificial carbonation took hold in the UK in the late 1950's. This system necessitated the beer to be stored in sealed containers that are maintained and delivered under primarily CO2 gas pressure. This meant no secondary fermentation was necessary and the beer could be packaged "bright" (without yeast or sediment). This also meant that beer could have a longer shelf life as it wasn't exposed to oxygen or microbes when you tapped it or pulled a pint, it could last for many months compared to the 5-7 days of a cask ale. This was a safer investment for pub owners as less of the product was wasted and the product was of a more reliably consistent quality. This was about the time that Carlsberg was optimising beer for minimal costs and maximum volume, and the macro lager scene was emerging. Cheap mass produced lagers delivered in kegs and served on draught started replacing beer engine served traditional cask ales. The variety of beer suffered, and CAMRA was founded in 1971 to protect traditional, unpressurised beer and brewing methods. This was later expanded to include bottle-conditioned beer. This was primarily a response to the macro lagers, though the discrimination was directed towards the packaging and carbonation methods. Refrigeration: In addition to this, oxidation happens faster at elevated temperatures, so refrigeration enables hazy beers to stay better quality for longer. Refrigerated beer storage and delivery is a relatively recent development. Conclusions: Since then, the use of kegs and cans has presented the opportunity to package beer in a more shelf stable way, and enables oxygen free packaging. Hazy beers are basically not possible in a cask unless you can guarantee the beer will be consumed within a few hours, like at a festival. Bottles could result in unacceptable quality risks. Can conditioned can work, but result in a yeasty beer. Quite frankly, doing a hazy beer 50 years ago would have been a waste of money and the hops didn't exist. Citra was among the first of the modern polyphenol rich hops and that was first bred in 1990. The first commercial plot was 2008. That's only 13 years ago. Since then we've got Galaxy, Mosaic, Simcoe, Idaho 7, Eldorado, Equanot, and a host of other polyphenol rich hop options. The knowledge that they are susceptible to oxidation and how to do a low oxygen brew has only been openly available in the last 10 years or so. Within the last 5 years commercial examples of the style have progressed drastically from inconsistent to ubiquitous. My take away from this is to question if we have accidentally let a historically helpful heuristic make us unintentionally discriminatory, that might make us miss out on some excellent things.
I picked up a great trip from this one. In the past I had never added my flaked grains on top. I had always just mixed them in. From yesterday's brew day it looks like adding the last will result in a 50% trub loss reduction on the fermenter.
If it helps, you can put a magnet on the bottom of the flask. It will prevent the stir bar from falling out. Cheers
I was going to comment this also! It holds the stir bar handily through the flask side.
I'm not much of a brewer myself but I'm very good at drinking beer and Idaho7 is something I've noticed I particularly enjoy.
You don't brew much ... then WTF are you here then?.
There's always someone not picking, you just do it our way 😊
Love Double Hazy's I tried and ended up making one of my worst beers yet 🤣 Can't wait to try again!
The biggest improvement I made to my fermentation is using an oxygenation kit. I use to always fall short of my target FG until I started to actually aerate the wort (not just shake the fermenter)
I also started running PBW through my Clawhammer system after seeing Kyle and the boys do that on their channel. I like the clamp use for the chiller! I always struggle with that thing falling over. I'll have to do that on my next brew.
FYI Alex, here's what the manufacturer of PBW says how to use their product. Rinse off vessel or surface to get rid of as much soil as possible.
Dissolve 1-2 ounces per gallon for kettles and 3/4 ounces per gallon for fermenters, kegs, tanks, and other equipment. (May vary depending on soil load)
If circulation cleaning, heat to 130°-180° F and circulate for at least 30 minutes.
If soaking, heat to 140° and soak for 4 hours or allow to soak cold overnight.
Rinse surface or vessel.
It also says on the plastic containers of PBW when rinsing use same temperature water to rinse. Many UA-camr's don't give complete information when it comes to homebrewing. A word to the wise, read the manufacturer's instructions don't go by what someone claims on the UA-cam. Otherwise your beer may turn out infected or with some other off flavor. Happy brewing.
@@egruber50 yeah man, I've read the instructions for pbw but thanks for copy pasting it I guess? 🤷
It's the circulating it through the system that's exciting.
Great video, I love your homebrewing setup and how you film your brew days. I use a magnet on the outside of the flask, to keep the stirring bar from escaping while I pitch the yeast.
Nice choice. This Hop is the best for hot uses if you wanna preserve aromas, because has a huge hop aroma impact even when used in whirpool, some time better than other hop when used in DH. (Scott Janish's Book "The New IPA").
you deserve so many more subs than what you have, i really dont know whats going on there, for your content you should atleast be on the 100k mark
I have a whirlpool arm mounted permanently in my kettle, it's called the "spin cycle" from Brew Hardware. It's a low profile weldless mount. It may fit with the clawhammer basket? Kinda fun to have the option if it would fit that system. In that kettle, I tee the whirlpool arm with a sparge system in my basket and run it for the whole mash. 🍻
Will it help if u don’t use the hop spider for better hop contact?? Meaning…. I saw u have that huge basket and was wondering if u emptied it and used it as a hop basket so the hops whirlpool better ?? Just loooking for ideas to use less hops because I only do 10 gal batches and give most of it away. Your thoughts??
I aerate wort the same way, Never had any problems with yeast starting as long as it was fresh and enough of it.
Luv the big grain basket in your VID !! How many lbs will it hold ??? Link to buy 1?.?
just got to the bit where you mentioned the latte, aparently thats protein and its 50/50 people who skim it off, i never used to but have recently started and skimming off that brown latte crud from the top ive found i have a cleaner taste in the end
Ska Brewing in Durango does a Tropical Hazy IPA with Idaho 7 and Centennial which is hella dank
Hi just a dumb idea stir bars are magnet and you if had a metal ojbect under the flask it would attract it and not fall in to fermentor. Try with stuff at hand in your brewiere
21 IBUs for a dipa is more in the oat cream/ milkshake IPA territory, I made an epic oat cream IPA last year, 6.2% and 18 IBUs, used vanilla infused vodka, about 15-20ml if it, 13% of the grist was flaked oats and 6% flaked barley, rest was pilsner malt & 250g lactose
210gm hops just in the whirlpool, citra, mosaic & eldorado, 50g citra, 50g mosaic, 50g eldorado dry hop at high krousan & 40,40 & 40 of each on day 6/7 very hazy, a bit of hop burn, juicy, resinous, tropical, deffinatley my favourite IPA I've done so far but none of my family liked it, that's why I brew alot of light beers with not alot of hop aroma, some dark beers like British dark mild's and light lagers but with kveik cause I live in Australia. Lol
Cheers
Hmm, I mash in a cooler with a false bottom. I don’t recirculate the wort during mashing, I don’t mash out at a higher temperature, and I whirlpool by stirring. I don’t even own a pump. I always oxygenate with an aquarium pump, sterile filter and carb stone. I always hit my numbers. Am I too old school?
Can the clawhammer brew a full 10 gallons of wort? I saw on their site the kettle is only 10.5 gallons.
Saludos desde Guadalajara México.
Yeah Ibus is really tricky with neipas i have done an neipa at 12 ibu that turned out way to bitter and I have done one at 45 ibus that turned out just right and the ones in between kind of have been a bit of hit and miss
Double ipa needs a lot ibu to balance things. Mine would have between 50 to 75 atleast
Festbier was a 15 gallon batch, this is a 10 gallon batch, that's why there's enough room for the grain this time!
good video cheers
At 11:20, what did you use to calculate the amount to boil off?
Why don't you use the recirculation?
meanwhile my worst beers are all cause ibu is sub 50 XD
I like to hit my neipas with 3ml hop extract and leave the rest for a hop stand.
Why hazey? When I was 9 years old my commercial brewing dad impressed apon me to make sure the beer is clear. The first taste of a beer is with your eyes. Then your nose then the taste. what is with the haze?. Oh by the way I love your channel. Please keep it up.
The only beer I'm aware of that is intended to be served with yeast in suspension is hefeweizen. For pretty much any other beer, yeast suspension means bad quality, which makes it understandable to form the heuristic that cloudy means bad quality. And that heuristic would have served you well until relatively recently.
The introduction of hazy IPA presents an additional beer style that isn't possible to achieve without the haze, as the haze is due to the elevated polyphenol content that provides the beers rich aroma and flavour profile.
The short answer for why this only happened recently is that polyphenol rich hops basically didn't exist until about 30 years ago, and even if they did, the packaging technology required wasn't widely available until about 1970 and was politically shunned by "proper brewers" until far more recently due to initiatives like CAMRA. Even if it weren't, the brewing processes required to produce them consistently and commercially viably has only been developed in the last 20 years. You might have struggled to find reliable information on how to brew a good hazy beer as little as 5-10 years ago. We are still learning more about how to brew this style of beer well.
If you want to dig deeper, this is the long answer:
First the hops:
Historically beers were hopped primarily in the boil with traditional varieties such as Saaz, Hallertau, Fuggles, Challenger, etc which have a relatively low polyphenol content providing the more subtle aroma profile we associate with traditional beer. Within the last 30 years, many modern hop varieties were cultivated that have much higher polyphenol content. These enable more hop aroma forward beers than were previously possible. When the polyphenol levels in the beer rise, they form a stable haze in the beer, as it's effectively an emulsion. These Polyphenols break down in the presence of oxygen via oxidation, resulting in an unpalatable, bitter, brown/purple, dirty dish water beer, with little to none of that aroma left. Hazy beers therefore require oxygen free packaging which casks and crown top bottles struggle to provide consistently. They can go bad in hours when exposed to air.
Fermentation and packaging technology:
It's not uncommon for traditional beer styles to be fermented in open topped fermentation vessels in the UK. Modern stainless conical fermentation vessels and air locks allow for the beer to be brewed in an oxygen free environment. Cask ale should be consumed within 5-7 days of tapping as the head space is topped up from the air in the celar, which exposes it to oxygen and microbes that begin making it go off. Any beer unsold on day 5-7 of a cask was lost profit as it had spoiled. Crown cap bottles seals are not 100% perfect and allow for some gas exchange, making it difficult to ensure quality of oxygen sensitive beers.
Artificial carbonation took hold in the UK in the late 1950's. This system necessitated the beer to be stored in sealed containers that are maintained and delivered under primarily CO2 gas pressure. This meant no secondary fermentation was necessary and the beer could be packaged "bright" (without yeast or sediment). This also meant that beer could have a longer shelf life as it wasn't exposed to oxygen or microbes when you tapped it or pulled a pint, it could last for many months compared to the 5-7 days of a cask ale. This was a safer investment for pub owners as less of the product was wasted and the product was of a more reliably consistent quality.
This was about the time that Carlsberg was optimising beer for minimal costs and maximum volume, and the macro lager scene was emerging. Cheap mass produced lagers delivered in kegs and served on draught started replacing beer engine served traditional cask ales. The variety of beer suffered, and CAMRA was founded in 1971 to protect traditional, unpressurised beer and brewing methods. This was later expanded to include bottle-conditioned beer. This was primarily a response to the macro lagers, though the discrimination was directed towards the packaging and carbonation methods.
Refrigeration:
In addition to this, oxidation happens faster at elevated temperatures, so refrigeration enables hazy beers to stay better quality for longer. Refrigerated beer storage and delivery is a relatively recent development.
Conclusions:
Since then, the use of kegs and cans has presented the opportunity to package beer in a more shelf stable way, and enables oxygen free packaging. Hazy beers are basically not possible in a cask unless you can guarantee the beer will be consumed within a few hours, like at a festival. Bottles could result in unacceptable quality risks. Can conditioned can work, but result in a yeasty beer.
Quite frankly, doing a hazy beer 50 years ago would have been a waste of money and the hops didn't exist. Citra was among the first of the modern polyphenol rich hops and that was first bred in 1990. The first commercial plot was 2008. That's only 13 years ago. Since then we've got Galaxy, Mosaic, Simcoe, Idaho 7, Eldorado, Equanot, and a host of other polyphenol rich hop options. The knowledge that they are susceptible to oxidation and how to do a low oxygen brew has only been openly available in the last 10 years or so.
Within the last 5 years commercial examples of the style have progressed drastically from inconsistent to ubiquitous.
My take away from this is to question if we have accidentally let a historically helpful heuristic make us unintentionally discriminatory, that might make us miss out on some excellent things.
@@Leo99929 Holy fucking shit... what a post.And I'm with you 100%.
She's so damn fine😍
Nit picking*