Always check after a few and make sure you are staying level. If you get just a little off on one you can get a domino effect and get reallt far off if you don't check.
Good job and idea about spacer does top and bottom for speed. I tack mine in then screw . Although galvanize ring shank nail work great with a dab of constuction glue.
A lot of odd comments here. My biggest gripe is that the spacer probably gets used in all situations. I have always divided out my spaces between posts. So the balusters do not always end up with he same divisions on every job
That is great, and I do that all the time. What I really need to know about is how to figure out the size of that spacer block. It always takes me a long time to figure that out because I was never taught that easy mathematical method.
When I used to build decks I would do a quick lay out from the center of the rail bay with 3½" (2x4) spacing. If a spindle layout landed closer than 3¼ ish inches from the post, I would center a three and a half inch space at the center of the bay instead of a spindle. One of those two numbers was almost always really close. If it didn't work either way you can plus or minus 1/8 of an inch or so on all of the spindles or just a few that are close to the posts to make it even. The math way I used to use was to divide the handrail bay by 5 inches. That is the width of 1 spindle and a three and a half inch-ish gap. Add or subtract small increments (like an ⅛ inch) until the number that you had to change from 5 inches goes into the length of the bay without any fraction left over. From what I remember a 4-inch ball can't pass in between the spindles for code. You probably don't want to go wider than a 3⅞ inch space if you're getting inspected
They got websites now that figure that out for you. I front which one I used but all I needed to input was the length and you can actually put how much space you want in-between. It won't come out to that exactly but it will come close depending on your measurements.
Always see it done this way. Why. Over time the wood starts to rot and the spindle cones loose. Then a small kid leans against it and falls through. Spindles should be on the other side. Plus it looks a lot cleaner from the street.
See same mistake of people putting up livestock fencing. You always want the wire or rails to face inside so livestock comes in contact they push towards post that brace it and not away from it
All it takes is a few getting an 1/8 off and before you know you are way out of plumb with your balusters. Best way is to space the tops like shown and then go and plumb and nail each one. Its ok, you're learning!
Como profesionales tenemos q recomendar a los clientes q es mejor recomendable con tornillos galvanizados . Short cut con clavos eso no dura con los elementos en menos de un año todo está suelto . Pero bueno hay cada sudcontratista saca la vuelta . Dueños por favor supervices las obras .
Nails bend under pressure. Screws break. There is a time to use both types but usually if you’re installing deck boards you’d use screws since you’re screwing directly downward but usually for joists or balusters (like this video) nails are better because as the wood ages it will cause the wood to slightly contour and bend so nails are best for that application. Moral of the story is you definitely want to know when and where to use screws or nails.
Lo ideal sería solamente ponerle un clavo arriba y después los dos o tres que le vayas a poner abajo, si pones todos los clavos de arriba, es difícil girar y alinear el barrote
I've used this method before, only problem you experience is when you're doing a a long run you have to check it w a level every 10 sticks or so to make sure it's plumb. Even 1/32" difference frok top to bottom will throw you off after 10 or 15 sticks
Def a beginner. I see my guys using a nail gun on balusters, they are done. My fasteners need to being line and straight and same depth. Every one of the
The space between each is 3.5". Building code is no greater than 4". The nails will hold for a long time even after wood shrinkage. There is nothing wrong with this method for a DIY job. However, always make sure to start your 1st baluster in the exact middle.
That jig works only in the middle, at the end when you have to adjust then you go free solo.. . also, nails? ewww... never used for this type of work. and i did a deck just 3 days ago.. .
Using nails is shit work. They will work their way back out through shrinkage and expansion. Screws only. Other than big four inch nails in the joists below.... There shouldn't be any nails in a deck. When you get bids specify exactly how you expect it done and check up on it too.
Experts weigh in. Let's hear it. Maybe the guy does this a few times stops a checks plumb/level then proceeds. We never get to see the whole process on the short video. If the customer is happy and pays them. Go to the next job. People stop being so critical. Dammmmmmm
Straight trash. I stoped doing this 15 years ago cause of cracking and the nails always fall out over time and do not hold when there older when someone needs them to. Two smaller head decking or trim screws. Is the only way to Pass code where I live
Obviously the way he's doing it took him probably 10 seconds longer to make than just using a "2x4 chunk", but he's gonna save that easily on the first baluster when he struggles to pull the block out instead od the jig having a handle
@@MR-ho4ro STFU, his jig is much better. Who other than you wants to grip a 3’ long 2x4 in their hand when they could be using a baluster half that size
Always check after a few and make sure you are staying level. If you get just a little off on one you can get a domino effect and get reallt far off if you don't check.
Can’t agree with you more
Never nail em always screw them on and yes keep a level handy
I finish nail then screw. Makes production faster.
@@austinlevi3452 Absolutely
Was going to say this
Honestly when you work in the trades "tips" like this are just the way you do things.
Hahah I feel that
Wonderful idea, great time saver.
Whenever I run a rail I stretch a string from one end to the other and temporarily set a few ballisters to get it straight.
Good job and idea about spacer does top and bottom for speed. I tack mine in then screw . Although galvanize ring shank nail work great with a dab of constuction glue.
Always make a jig for any repetitive work. I do.
Not allowed to use nail in Canada two screws top and bottom and just use a 2x4 for spacing
He did use a 2x4. He just put a 2x2 on it for a handle
Nanny state BS
Great idea, thanks for sharing!!!
A lot of odd comments here. My biggest gripe is that the spacer probably gets used in all situations. I have always divided out my spaces between posts. So the balusters do not always end up with he same divisions on every job
That is great, and I do that all the time. What I really need to know about is how to figure out the size of that spacer block. It always takes me a long time to figure that out because I was never taught that easy mathematical method.
When I used to build decks I would do a quick lay out from the center of the rail bay with 3½" (2x4) spacing. If a spindle layout landed closer than 3¼ ish inches from the post, I would center a three and a half inch space at the center of the bay instead of a spindle. One of those two numbers was almost always really close.
If it didn't work either way you can plus or minus 1/8 of an inch or so on all of the spindles or just a few that are close to the posts to make it even.
The math way I used to use was to divide the handrail bay by 5 inches. That is the width of 1 spindle and a three and a half inch-ish gap. Add or subtract small increments (like an ⅛ inch) until the number that you had to change from 5 inches goes into the length of the bay without any fraction left over.
From what I remember a 4-inch ball can't pass in between the spindles for code. You probably don't want to go wider than a 3⅞ inch space if you're getting inspected
They got websites now that figure that out for you. I front which one I used but all I needed to input was the length and you can actually put how much space you want in-between. It won't come out to that exactly but it will come close depending on your measurements.
Well friend the secret formula is long division. It has never failed me in 45 years.
I like that spaceing device , makes it alot easier now for my next baulsters job, now no more dot drops lmao
Maybe strap a level/plumb on your spacer and check'em as you go 🤙
Or be sure to Sq the area
He should run a line at the top, to get that bow out. He's doing good though!
If the first one is level and you are butting to it why wouldn't the rest be level
Makes no sense. Common sense. If you level the first one, and the spacer is equal……. Get it yet? Come on.
Look to me like you need a post in there. That wobbly as hell.
Looking great
Good idea but 1/16 of an inch off 16 times is an inch off in the end. Just keep an eye on them as you go.
Always see it done this way. Why. Over time the wood starts to rot and the spindle cones loose. Then a small kid leans against it and falls through. Spindles should be on the other side. Plus it looks a lot cleaner from the street.
That is a right! You got a point there 👍🏽
Disagree. Ive never had any spindles rot or come loose
Buuut it's easier right there.
See same mistake of people putting up livestock fencing. You always want the wire or rails to face inside so livestock comes in contact they push towards post that brace it and not away from it
You have obviously never pulled a ringshak galvy out.
staining or painting each board before installation saves effort.
All it takes is a few getting an 1/8 off and before you know you are way out of plumb with your balusters. Best way is to space the tops like shown and then go and plumb and nail each one. Its ok, you're learning!
Buddy which nail u using
Hello Mr. George how much do you pay for the for the old guy ?
Finally, the inventor of the spacer is revealed
I haven't got to build pt railings in like ten years put up a lot of vinyl railings thince then though
In the US everything is probably stapled with nail guns. The whole country seems to be held together only by rusty nails and tape....
Como profesionales tenemos q recomendar a los clientes q es mejor recomendable con tornillos galvanizados . Short cut con clavos eso no dura con los elementos en menos de un año todo está suelto . Pero bueno hay cada sudcontratista saca la vuelta . Dueños por favor supervices las obras .
Hmmmm idk what part of us you live in but usually stainless steel deck screws in the states I’ve lived in
Tell that to the empire state building.
@@am3rikan84 probably W.Virginia or Kentucky...😂😂
Nails bend under pressure. Screws break. There is a time to use both types but usually if you’re installing deck boards you’d use screws since you’re screwing directly downward but usually for joists or balusters (like this video) nails are better because as the wood ages it will cause the wood to slightly contour and bend so nails are best for that application. Moral of the story is you definitely want to know when and where to use screws or nails.
What size of the nails,?
Damn son your about too yank the whole porch 😂😂😂
If you are gonna use nails just put one in the top until you get the bottom nailed and nothing is in a bind
Nice tip, Thanks.
Lo ideal sería solamente ponerle un clavo arriba y después los dos o tres que le vayas a poner abajo, si pones todos los clavos de arriba, es difícil girar y alinear el barrote
What size nails you using
What kind of nails are you using when I use the 2” they always seem to crack or split
That’s one hell of a wide deck! 😮😮😮
What do you mean by wide, i think the deck looks fine
Bevel you spacer slightly, it will be easier to pull out
Smart. Is it level ?
You mean plumb?
Splitting the wood has left the chat.
Great idea, but your cameraman is totally blocking the nailing part
how long of a run is that section between posts
Lol - it's to Mexican Code - of four feet, plus or minus !
Emphasis on the "plus "
Lol
Good tip saludos Desde Texas
Screws are way better... I've never used nails on them.
Screws? Hit it with a finishing nailer; 15-16 gauge, 2” maybe 2 1/2”… less noticeable Aka (clean work) less chance of splitting the baluster.
1st comment i see, read my mind, nice jig and all but, nails?
I just finished up a deck 3 days ago. I pre drill and use 2" screws. Nails always come loose.
@@EscobarJ1970 no
Pre drill
How are you nailing it twice and still able to the lower portion?
The nails are like an inch apart. Plenty of play to 3 feet down
I've used this method before, only problem you experience is when you're doing a a long run you have to check it w a level every 10 sticks or so to make sure it's plumb. Even 1/32" difference frok top to bottom will throw you off after 10 or 15 sticks
@@dimebagtonyfinnahit9716 it's plumb in this situation, level would be way off
Awesome!
I use this method all the time. But I flip the jig every baluster. Fucked my self once using 2 pieces of slightly different sized lumber.
Nice job, only if your using stainless steel fasteners. ACQ lumber will destroy galvanized nails in 2 years
Thanks for sharing.
Nice how I was taught
I dont like the nail way. It is so hard to replace or repair later.
The first one better be level too - lol 😆 imagine if the first one wasn't 😂
find center so spacing is even on each end and should use a bigger nail gun 😂
Nice spacer rig. Screws work better.
Def a beginner. I see my guys using a nail gun on balusters, they are done. My fasteners need to being line and straight and same depth. Every one of the
I feel sorry for your guys
You the type to pay $10 an hour and expect the guy to give you $30 worth.
You won’t see them. They’re working. You are gabbing on your phone.
Nope. You need screws guy. Those nails will be pulling out in a few years, with the weather and expansion/contraction cycles.
That is how I do it to so easy no thinking
If you are over 3ft off the ground, don't do it like this. Someone will get hurt.
The space between each is 3.5". Building code is no greater than 4". The nails will hold for a long time even after wood shrinkage. There is nothing wrong with this method for a DIY job. However, always make sure to start your 1st baluster in the exact middle.
@@shannonp4037 Depends on the length of each certain rail… some you may center the spindle, others you may have to center the spacer
BS. If one gets loose and a child pushes against it, the neighbor spindles will prevent an accident. Bunch of Nanny’s.
@@shannonp4037y start in the middle? I’m about to do this for the first time and I haven’t heard that before
@@schill3833equal spacing this way. Also, less math if you want them to look symmetrical
Los clavos de q medida son
PUES ME GUSTO EL ESTILO 👍👍
I like the template
Yeah but how did he find the correct spacing? That is the hard part.
Que medida son esas barrotes
May God bless you my good brother that's how you do God bless you my good brother with skills and then
Nice spacer, but you darn well those nails close to the ends split them pickets bro
Might wanna straighten that rail and nails are no good especially with the baulisters on the outside
🍀👍👍👍🍀
Looks good from my house
Jig it my boy!
Screws v2a? And Level?😅😅😅😅
I want to see the one space
That great
But they will be loose after twenty years
Don't hate. As long as it's less than 4" apart. It meets specifications.
We stopped using nails on balusters 20 years ago.
I believe it’s the width of a 2x4
That jig works only in the middle, at the end when you have to adjust then you go free solo.. .
also, nails? ewww... never used for this type of work. and i did a deck just 3 days ago.. .
What spacing is in between ? Thanks In advance
Depending on your ordinance its usually 4 inches wide. So a kids head wont get stuck
no thats just common sense that alot people dont have now a days llmao
Using nails is shit work. They will work their way back out through shrinkage and expansion. Screws only. Other than big four inch nails in the joists below.... There shouldn't be any nails in a deck.
When you get bids specify exactly how you expect it done and check up on it too.
ganun pala un..may guide para pantay
Experts weigh in. Let's hear it. Maybe the guy does this a few times stops a checks plumb/level then proceeds. We never get to see the whole process on the short video. If the customer is happy and pays them. Go to the next job. People stop being so critical. Dammmmmmm
Your fired, taking way to long on those pickets
Thank you for not nailing 50 nails in one area😞😞😞
The gun is bigger than this homie😂😂😂 my lord
The harder you push the harder you have to pull
Nails dont meet code here of I'd be nailing them for damn sure
Not code here. Got to pre drill then screw around here crown
That’s handrails is way to long following code
Nice job nail gun nails don't come out easy nor do they spilt the wood
Straight trash. I stoped doing this 15 years ago cause of cracking and the nails always fall out over time and do not hold when there older when someone needs them to. Two smaller head decking or trim screws. Is the only way to
Pass code where I live
Balusters go on the inside smh 😮
Or you can just use a 2x4 chunk 😅
Obviously the way he's doing it took him probably 10 seconds longer to make than just using a "2x4 chunk", but he's gonna save that easily on the first baluster when he struggles to pull the block out instead od the jig having a handle
@@2004jessiehs sounds like a personal problem lulz never had an issue
@@MR-ho4ro STFU, his jig is much better. Who other than you wants to grip a 3’ long 2x4 in their hand
when they could be using a baluster half that size
Ponle tornillos wey se puede caer un niño si se desclava!!
Storyboard
🌴😎🌴😎🌴👍🇲🇽🌴
Is slow just mark them is faster
Gracias viejo 👍🏽
La haces mucho de pedo para ponder los barrotes es de lo mas facil hacer ese tipo de barandal
so lazy put a block to stop the sagging instead of a post
To slow
Nails no no
Hack
get a leveler 🤦🏻♂️
Screw not nail, amateur!
Hack fest