Hey Wougle! Thanks for stopping by the channel! I hope the video helped (with the oil, that is). I’m pleased you enjoy listening in - there’s an odd hour or two of content to wade through! I’ll ramble on some new content when I get a minute! Good to have you here!
This reminds of the good times spent around the engine bay of my 300Tdi Disco. The bonnet was up and the tools were out (replacing an idler pulley bearing or some such) and having a yak with my cousin and late uncle about mechanical minutae as we all stared into the engine bay. Thanks for the good memory and yak on!
Hahah! Thanks, Mahn!! Happy to remind you of the good old days! Oddly enough, I was listening to the pulleys when I fired Danny up after the oil change and thinking I wasn’t convinced by the squeak on one of them (could be the belt, but I’ll have to get my stethoscope to know properly). I really liked the 200Tdi more than the 300. The 300 was the better engine, but I could never get on with the way they drove, somehow. Word on the street is that you can tweak a 200Tdi to put out more (only a bit more, but more) than a 300Tdi. I never tried, but even a TD5 wasn’t much cop on the highway out here, so I’m not sure that a 200Tdi would be up to life in the prairies.
Interesting video and entertaining as always, I don’t often comment on videos (always like), but your videos have been very interesting and I’ve enjoyed everyone of them. I’ve owned many Land Rovers over the years and found that one to one help/communication at the dealership has vanished, and it’s very difficult to get help and advise from the dealership I’ve used for over 25 years. Your videos have provided lots of useful information, current vehicles (2015 RR Diesel and 2022 Defender 300D). Please stay happy and keep posting the Videos. Thank you for your videos and sharing your wealth of old school experience.
Hey Bossman! Thanks for your kind thoughts! I appreciate the time you’ve taken to weigh in, and it’s nice to hear that my content is well received (and useful). I’m very envious of your D300 - I hear that they’re outstanding vehicles and really do miss that we don’t get the option in North America. What engine has your RR got in it? Did the TDV8s make it into the L405 series (I’ve not owned an L405 - I’m assuming that’s what you have). I was only having the discussion about the dealer’s dwindling interests in owners with a friend a few days ago. It is very sad and disputing that JLR have moved away from the kinds of personal investment they used to have with their clients. I think it’s been a steady decline and likely linked to the steady increasing focus on luxury vehicles (perhaps more related to the regular buyers of such vehicles than to the vehicles themselves). Thanks again for your well wishes; the same to you and yours. I’ll keep on posting as long as my content remains useful!
I picked up a 2017 early this summer and have done 2 oil changes so far and the filter housing was very tight/difficult to remove both times. I think it may be due to the plastic fors uses. Other power strokes that I have serviced acted similar in removing the housing. You should address filling the DEF tank and fuel filter change in future vid. Also what are your thoughts on the genuine roof rack vs that other company? I'm getting ready to install a rack soon and feel the oem is the one to go with but is it worth $1200 🇺🇸 over the cost of the front runner. Wish there were more options.
Hey Brian! I’ve done a short brides on the OEM roof rack installation, as you probably know, however, perhaps I should say why I went with the ORM vs Rhino or FR. There are a number of reasons that I prefer the OEM. Firstly because the OEM suits the vehicle better - it follows the contours of the roof line better as well as the overall aesthetic of the D5. Secondly, the Thule grooves have rubber track inserts which permit loads to be secured against a binding surface (as opposed to the FR and Rhino racks, which do not have a traction surface). Thirdly, the FR racks I’ve had in the past have been very poorly made and the coating came off very quickly on the corner pieces. This caused the aluminium to oxidise badly and look terrible. There was no warranty when I tried to claim (I’d only had the rack 4-5 months before they corroded) and FR wouldn’t offer any kind of replacement. Despite spending quite a lot of money with them, they refused to honour any kind of warranty on any kind of product (I bought a selection of mounting brackets and only half came with nuts and bolts - they refused to ship me out the required bolts and I ended up buying them from a local bolt supplier’s). The OEM rack is very well made. It’s strong, easy to fit, streamlined, adaptive, functional, looks great, is modular (Thule T-slots), and versatile. It’s only downsides are being lower slung than the Defender’s version (making front mounted, underslung, light bars difficult to mount; and it’s quite noisy (I’ve never heard a D5 with a FR rack on it, but wind dynamics are a dark art and a bit of an unknown quantity. I’d be surprised if the FR was any quieter. Good to know about the filter housings. I was quite surprised how tight it was - I’ve had rough-to-remove filter housings before, but this was relatively new to me on a relatively new vehicle. What other Powerstrokes have you worked on? I’m new to the engine - my last diesel Landy was a TD5 in a D2, 20 years back! Oooh! DEF filling! That’s an excellent suggestion! Thanks! I shall do that. I fill up at my local UFA, so I’ll try to figure out how to record there without them getting twitchy about phones and pumps! Lol! Now you’ve raised an interesting thought about fuel filters! The AJV8s have a fuel filter in the tank as part of the pump (the things a bit of a nightmare and clogged on my LR3 requiring me to replace the whole pump). I thought the D5 would be the same! Are you saying there’s a separate fuel filter on the diesel D5s? I’ll have to do a video on that if there is one one - I never even thought to ask my parts guy! I will this coming week!
@@shedlock2000 I’ve found the filter housings difficult on a few V8 powerstrokes in small dump trucks. They always come off but the amount of effort seems over the top for what it is. As to DEF I’ve been buying high quality German made product from the VW dealership because I’ve read that some people have had problems over the years with lesser brands. The VW juice is inexpensive,meets all of the euro specs, and comes in a container with fill spout for the small fill hole. Lastly the 3.0 has a fuel filter in the fire wall, drivers side behind the removable plastic. It is a fairly easy job to replace with a few removable quick lock lines going to the top. It won’t be easy to film though as there isn’t much room to work with. Thanks for the insight on the roof rack.
I have bought German DEF from my local VW dealership as well. I use the container as a funnel to fill up from the pump. I have heard similar about the quality of the DEF. When I researched DEF quality, there seems to be a ISO22241-1 or DIN 70070 requirement. The grade at my local UFA pump meets or exceeds that requirement, and so I use that; I have not (yet) had any difficulties and its $19 a litre cheaper!! I will check out the fuel filter replacement -- I'll likely do it at 10,000 miles, as that seems like a good interval to me (though I will check JLR's recommended service intervals and half it! LOL
@@shedlock2000 what are you paying per litre for def up there? I just purchased 20L at the local vw dealer here in the states and it was 94 cents per L. Also I don't think my 2017 uses much at all. I always see people on forums talking about the high cost of keeping the def tank full. Last question, how often does yours go through regen? In 13k miles I've only had mine go 3 times i think.
It cost me $24 for a gallon from VW and costs about $1.05 a litre from the pump. VW have a larger quantity which is cheaper (obviously), but I bought the small one so that I could use it as a funnel for the pump. Not to sure about re-gens! I’ve not had one yet (so far as I know), and I’ve done 6,000 miles in mine. I can only assume I’m due one soon. I’m sure you know this, but the DEF is used in SCR (selective catalyst reduction) to reduce the concentration of NO in exhaust. The regens are a different thing entirely, and they burn the soot which collects in an exhaust filter. These ‘active’ regenerations take fuel and inject it into the DPF and ignite it to help burn out the soot. Failed regens can cause oil dilution as the unburied fuel somehow ends up being cycled into the sump (so I’m led to understand). The DEF, however, is consumed in the cat to reduce NOx in the emissions. DEF consumption cannot start until the vehicle reaches normal temperature, and so many short journeys can result in the vehicle complaining about DEF function; it’s advisable to run the vehicle to proper operating temperature at least once every couple of days if you’re making only short journeys to avoid DEF injection issues. I’m not sure how much mine uses. I filled it up with 4 gallons at 4,000 miles, my current fill-up amount is 2.5 gallons and I’ve done about 2,000 miles (town work, it seems, uses more). Filling up at the pump is not very expensive and cheaper product can be bought from auto-parts places (though the quality is suspect). The 1 gallon bottles here are quite expensive by comparison, and the 1 gallon from JLR is $35. It’s not excessive once every 5,000 miles, but it’s certainly cheaper at $1.05 a litre! The DPF regens are a bit more complex and I don’t fully understand the system really. What I can say is that they run regens when the level of soot builds up to a certain level. I don’t know what kinds of driving develops more soot, but I imagine it’d be the kind where wide throttle openings are likely to develop soot and/or unburied fuel. For the last 5,000 miles, I’ve done pretty much nothing but highway work, so I haven’t noticed any issues. Recently (the last 1,000 miles) has been more in-town stuff, so I’m planning on hitting the highway for 20 minutes or so fairly soon (20 minutes is the recommended interval for activating the regen). Continual failed regens will result in the vehicle indicating a longer highway trip is needed - least, so I’m told!
Hi good vid , i'm now thinking of a toyota LAND CRUISER if i can get the new 300 model , instead of a defender because of the way JLR treat customers , Hello from Dublin again . A video on winter driveing would be a good idea ! Block heater it what your looking for
Greetings, Dublin (and hi Micheál)! Yeah, I’ve had block heaters in all my others - I’m not at all sure why the D5 has that coolant heater rather than a block heater. I bet Ford have something to screw in theirs; I bet one would bolt straight on! I didn’t have much luck with my Toyota, and the Toyota dealerships have a worse attitude here than do JLR (believe it or not) - though I’m sure that’s not a world-wide affliction! I know the manager at the local dealer we have in town, so I don’t get any of that from him. The new Tundra here (released late ‘21) is a bit of a machine and they have improved much. However, I’m not a truck guy really and they don’t sell the LC here in Canada. I still find Toyota to be a bit basic in terms of spec and tech - and certainly im terms of fit and finish. But I can see their attraction. I’ve had issues with my Toys in the past, but I recognise their general dependability. I don’t know that I could ever own another, though: I’m not really fond of their overall aesthetic (given that my only option here is the bed-sprung ForeRunner or some bloated Lexus). The defender is a very good vehicle if you can get a good one. Both mine were dodgy and the dealership (and corporate) back-up was non-existent (as you know from my earlier videos). To be honest, the L663 is a massive improvement on the LC300s so far as I can tell. But I do get your reservation - especially now I’ve had my HLR Corporate experience. I think you’ll likely have better luck with UK Toyota dealerships - and if you like the LCs, then you should seriously consider one. But the L663 shouldn’t be written off so quickly. IF (capitals for emphasis) you have a good dealer and you can get a diesel, I believe the L663 to be hard to beat. The D5 is a stunning tool, but it is quite simply the ugliest thing to come out of Solihull (mine was built there) since the Forest Rover.
What you need is international spec ACEA E7 low SAPS synthetic oil. The viscosity is best to be on the thinner side for cold and very cold weather, so 0W/20 should be ideal.
You may well be right, Huw. I’m not well up enough on oil specs to know the difference. I’ve reached out to Cameron to ask about the APEC-US spec crossover. I know the oil needs to be 0W something, but I think Ford have tried harder to increase the upper end viscosity to protect the crank and liners - the -20 may be too thin to protect against wear. JLR spec a 0W-30 or 5W-30, while their petrols have 0W-20 as you know. Cameron seemed to think moving to the Ford spec would be better given the prevalence of crank fails (they have been shown to fail because the con-rod bearings pic up on the crank - that happens because of a lack of shell divots and because of decreased lubricant resistance at that point).
I’ve given some thought tonight on what you’ve said, and I do wonder if a 0W-30 would be better for winter (the very cold part). I might drop this towards January and throw in a 0W-30 (Ford don’t recommend anything lower than a 30 weight).
The problem with SAE 0W-20 is that it will have insufficient HTHS viscosity. ACEA E7 and API CI-4 onwards require a minimum HTHS of 3.5 mPa·s at 150°C (302°F), regardless of SAE viscosity. SAE 0W-20 minimum HTHS is 2.6 mPa·s at 150°C (302°F), and most are in the 2.6 to 2.9 mPa·s range. Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 is based on the API CK-4 specification (similar to ACEA E9 sold in Europe) but has a phosphorus requirement of 1,000 to 1,200 ppm (0.10 to 0.12% mass). This is because Ford noticed excessive engine wear with some API CK-4 formulations, which, like ACEA E9, have a blanket maximum phosphorus limit of 1,200 ppm (0.12% mass), but no minimum limit. JLR spec of STJLR.03.5005, last updated in 2016, is for SAE 5W-30 only based upon ACEA C1 with additional JLR requirements. It's effectively a re-write of Ford Europe specification WSS-M2C934-B. ACEA C1, as of the 2021 oil sequences, is now obsolete. Oils to this specification have a minimum HTHS of 2.9 mPa·s at 150°C (302°F) and a blanket maximum phosphorus requirement of 500 ppm (0.05% mass). Since our 2.7 TDV6 in our 2006 Discovery 3 has just done a big end in, when it gets rebuild I will be using the Ford North America specification oil. The only oils I have seen in the UK which are approved against WSS-M2C171-F1 as recommended by Ford North America for use with biodiesel above 5% (the UK is 7%) and suitable for our climate are: Fuchs Titan Cargo SAE 5W-40 (API CK-4/SN, ACEA E9*) Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 5W-40 Diesel (API CK-4**, ACEA E9*) *Manufacturer listed on www.sail-europe.eu/registrations/lubricant-marketers **Product listed on engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
@@cameronwood1994 Hi Cameron! Thanks for weighing in! This is excellent info and much appreciated. I was hoping you’d come along and add some useful data to the comment thread. The 0W-40s I added in the fall may need to come out now, as temps are dropping to -30°c. I’ll be looking for a 0W-30s - I’ll pick one that meets Ford’s WSS number from the screen shot you gave me some time back. The oil won’t be doing 5k this time, but it’s only oil! Curiously enough, though, I have noticed a mpg loss with the 0W-40s in! (Not complaining, just observing the difference).
Yes, of course! However there are a number of bash guards that require removal and so on, so it’s a far longer process and a ramp makes the job much easier. Given that the amount left in the sump is minimal compared to the 8 gallon fill, I am far more inclined to vacuum the oil out (though once every now and then I do a full drain to check the magnet on the sump for particulates).
@shedlock2000 thanks! I've actually done a lot of reading since yesterday. Biggest complaint is the oil shooting straight out but there is a plug with a 90 degree valve that exists out of Europe. So I'll likely full dump every other change. On my Tundra, I have steel skid plates but my hands are small enough to fit the trap door for the filter (I'm female) and I have a fumoto valve. The bash gaurds dont look too bad to take off. Easier and lighter than my plates. I see you used 0w40....were you running that in the summer as well?
Yes, I usually try to do a sump drain once every other service or so. Performing short service intervals (which is very important) means that the oil shouldn’t get to dirty that the tiny residual would matter. The belly plate on the disco isn’t too bad to pull off, and you can do it at home on ramps (see my video for the harder oil service on the defender - which has two plates to remove). I can’t comment about the oil shooting straight out, I usually use a piece of tin as a deflector for such things because I’m mindful of any angled spout catching off road on snow and ice (which would be a major bad day if it were caught). I’m putting together a video very soon on engine oils for Land Rovers, so stay tuned! However, to answer your question, I ran 0W/40s in winter and 5W/40s in summer. This is a better option to protect the crank on the TD6s, which are known to be a bit of a drama. Most important is meeting the specs that I mentioned in the video, as these are relevant to your oil selection. Remember that changing your oil often is part of the solution to avoiding crank grab and snap. Because of this, you’re far better sucking out the oil frequently than only getting round to dropping your oil through the sump infrequently (I am referring to the time you have to allot for a sump drain opposed to that for a sump drain - not your actual intent to chance the oil). That is to say that if you don’t have much time, you’re far better sucking out the oil in 20 minutes than you are waiting another few weeks to have time to drain it from the sump. Also, I think I may have given the wrong full amount in the video - check your manual, but I think you need 6 gallons not 8 (the 8 is for the V8s and the P400s). Good luck! And let me know if I can be any more help! You can find me on the other social medias under the same username if you need to reach out in a hurry.
@@shedlock2000 Thank you so much! I'd have to actually see the placement of the drain plug to see if it would be issue but I've had zero issues with my fumoto on my tundra which has the skid plate mostly covering it. Also, from the lower mainland so not much snow here. I'm thinking of getting steel skids fabricated if I end up with the LR and putting the trap doors where I need them. Should prevent any issues if I do put the other valve on. The oil thing is crazy. I watched LR Time's, @Vera_and_Christian, video on the Lion V6 crank issues and it is crazy that anyone would still do the LR recommended oil changes with the oil they want. I wish more people would watch your videos and try to preserve these vehicles. I've seen so many mucked up from mall crawling...it's insane. When I first started looking for a Disco 5 TD6, the sales person at the LR here told me to do the oil changes every 5k and not to use the oil they recommend. This person told me about all the full engine replacements and suggested I continue to do my own work. Crazy! Did you get rid of yours? I actually looked into a couple older supercharged rovers BUT the pricing is insane in BC. Not worth it
I’m always cautious of putting in any design weakness, and a redirection plate is very easy to construct out of a bit of old tin! So that’s the method I’ve used for some time now when required. I drove over a small pine branch once, and knocked off the DFP injector, which is tucked right up next to the transmission - why it’s not shielded I don’t know, but it reminded me of how spurious events can cause drama. The Tundra and the D5 are very different vehicles. I’ve a lot of respect for Toyota, though I’ve had bad luck with the ones I’ve had (one of which included a snapped crank on a Land Cruiser, curiously), however the D5 experience is next generation compared to even new Tundras. I’ve a friend here with a 2020 Tundra, and he was much disappointed with it compared to my D5 - through they’re broadly similar in age and supposed spec. JLR do make a remarkable product, al things considered, and it’s no surprise that they have the reputation for luxury and ability that they do. I’ve no clue why people persist with long drain oil intervals. Despite the content on my channel, I still come across many people with land rovers keeping 12-20k intervals on their D5’s or Defenders! It’s complete madness. But people who don’t keep vehicles long are often happy to give problems to the second owners. I’m having that issue now, as I’ve got transmission shudder in my L322 - a function of the original owner not servicing the box at 75k! Yes, I sold mine when Taryn and I separated, as there was a fairly significant financial payout I needed to make - having a $70k vehicle at that point was not a viable option. The vehicle was lovely and I really liked it, though the L322 is just as good (though you lose out on the option to camp in it because the seats don’t fold fully flat). I’d have trouble picking between the two. However, one piece of advice I can give you is to not go with the massage seats, as the seat bases are not the best for very long-haul driving (I do about 1000 miles in a day sometimes, hitting up perhaps 60,000 miles a year).
Yeah, the FBHs are standard fitment to Nordic vehicles too.! They have a Sebastopol in them (not sure why them and not Eberspächer - they probably have a deal with them). However, they were never an option on the D5s in North America. A sad situation given the temperatures reached up here. Idling the diesel without a fast-idle is ridiculous and I’m not at all sure how effective that little pump will be in the cold, Huw! Can’t imagine a 1000w heater will be much good against -40°c - even if it’s in water.
u constently says it takes 8 L of oil and complain about being low when u suck it out, but if u look on the sheet u put on the screen its the 3L petrol version that's uses 8L of oil the Diesel only 6 L of oil :)
Hi Nils, Thanks for bringing this up! I had incorrectly indicated the service fill level noticed and you are right -- I have just been back to the iGuide to check what's written there and it does say 6 litres for the 3.0lt diesel! Good spotting! Now, I poured in well over 6 litres (each container contains 1 US gallon, or 3.78 litres) -- but I had to add more out of the third to make the mark on the electronic oil level gauge, as you saw in the latter part of the video. So that is an area of concern. Does this mean that the electronic fill level sensor is out, I wonder? The filter housing may hold some, but it's not a spin on canister, so presumably it runs back into the sump.... So that doesn't help with the missing oil either. What are your thoughts here?
@@shedlock2000 i actually remember something from a video from Deutschland about the tube on the sensor not clipping in correctly, maby worth looking into?
This is why posting these kinds of things is so helpful - the world-wide experience and support is tremendous! Thanks for taking the time to comment; I’ll have to make an update video.
Came here to get tips on changing the oil on my disco, to be honest I could listen to you talk for hours, great stuff! Subbed.
Hey Wougle!
Thanks for stopping by the channel! I hope the video helped (with the oil, that is). I’m pleased you enjoy listening in - there’s an odd hour or two of content to wade through!
I’ll ramble on some new content when I get a minute!
Good to have you here!
I personally have learned a ton by people around me rambling, I quite enjoy it.
Thanks! I hope mine helps some people out too!
So glad I found this video and your channel!
I’m please that you found it too! Thanks for sliding by and taking the time to post a comment!
This reminds of the good times spent around the engine bay of my 300Tdi Disco. The bonnet was up and the tools were out (replacing an idler pulley bearing or some such) and having a yak with my cousin and late uncle about mechanical minutae as we all stared into the engine bay. Thanks for the good memory and yak on!
Hahah! Thanks, Mahn!! Happy to remind you of the good old days! Oddly enough, I was listening to the pulleys when I fired Danny up after the oil change and thinking I wasn’t convinced by the squeak on one of them (could be the belt, but I’ll have to get my stethoscope to know properly).
I really liked the 200Tdi more than the 300. The 300 was the better engine, but I could never get on with the way they drove, somehow. Word on the street is that you can tweak a 200Tdi to put out more (only a bit more, but more) than a 300Tdi. I never tried, but even a TD5 wasn’t much cop on the highway out here, so I’m not sure that a 200Tdi would be up to life in the prairies.
息子のディスカバリー5のオイル交換するのに、とても参考になりました！ありがとうございます！今後も引き続き楽しみにしてます。
You are very welcome! And I am glad that it helped you and your son! I hope I can be more help with other things in the future!
Interesting video and entertaining as always, I don’t often comment on videos (always like), but your videos have been very interesting and I’ve enjoyed everyone of them. I’ve owned many Land Rovers over the years and found that one to one help/communication at the dealership has vanished, and it’s very difficult to get help and advise from the dealership I’ve used for over 25 years. Your videos have provided lots of useful information, current vehicles (2015 RR Diesel and 2022 Defender 300D). Please stay happy and keep posting the Videos. Thank you for your videos and sharing your wealth of old school experience.
Hey Bossman!
Thanks for your kind thoughts! I appreciate the time you’ve taken to weigh in, and it’s nice to hear that my content is well received (and useful).
I’m very envious of your D300 - I hear that they’re outstanding vehicles and really do miss that we don’t get the option in North America. What engine has your RR got in it? Did the TDV8s make it into the L405 series (I’ve not owned an L405 - I’m assuming that’s what you have).
I was only having the discussion about the dealer’s dwindling interests in owners with a friend a few days ago. It is very sad and disputing that JLR have moved away from the kinds of personal investment they used to have with their clients. I think it’s been a steady decline and likely linked to the steady increasing focus on luxury vehicles (perhaps more related to the regular buyers of such vehicles than to the vehicles themselves).
Thanks again for your well wishes; the same to you and yours. I’ll keep on posting as long as my content remains useful!
Danny the Disco. Love it Firthy 👍
Hahaha! I have to thank a friend, John, for that! It seemed to work very well -- so it stuck!
@@shedlock2000 I'm probably a bit biased but I think it's grand name ☺
Hahaha! Well, of course!
Thank you for the Disco content!
You're welcome! I hope it is useful!
I picked up a 2017 early this summer and have done 2 oil changes so far and the filter housing was very tight/difficult to remove both times. I think it may be due to the plastic fors uses. Other power strokes that I have serviced acted similar in removing the housing. You should address filling the DEF tank and fuel filter change in future vid. Also what are your thoughts on the genuine roof rack vs that other company? I'm getting ready to install a rack soon and feel the oem is the one to go with but is it worth $1200 🇺🇸 over the cost of the front runner. Wish there were more options.
Hey Brian!
I’ve done a short brides on the OEM roof rack installation, as you probably know, however, perhaps I should say why I went with the ORM vs Rhino or FR.
There are a number of reasons that I prefer the OEM. Firstly because the OEM suits the vehicle better - it follows the contours of the roof line better as well as the overall aesthetic of the D5. Secondly, the Thule grooves have rubber track inserts which permit loads to be secured against a binding surface (as opposed to the FR and Rhino racks, which do not have a traction surface). Thirdly, the FR racks I’ve had in the past have been very poorly made and the coating came off very quickly on the corner pieces. This caused the aluminium to oxidise badly and look terrible. There was no warranty when I tried to claim (I’d only had the rack 4-5 months before they corroded) and FR wouldn’t offer any kind of replacement. Despite spending quite a lot of money with them, they refused to honour any kind of warranty on any kind of product (I bought a selection of mounting brackets and only half came with nuts and bolts - they refused to ship me out the required bolts and I ended up buying them from a local bolt supplier’s).
The OEM rack is very well made. It’s strong, easy to fit, streamlined, adaptive, functional, looks great, is modular (Thule T-slots), and versatile. It’s only downsides are being lower slung than the Defender’s version (making front mounted, underslung, light bars difficult to mount; and it’s quite noisy (I’ve never heard a D5 with a FR rack on it, but wind dynamics are a dark art and a bit of an unknown quantity. I’d be surprised if the FR was any quieter.
Good to know about the filter housings. I was quite surprised how tight it was - I’ve had rough-to-remove filter housings before, but this was relatively new to me on a relatively new vehicle. What other Powerstrokes have you worked on? I’m new to the engine - my last diesel Landy was a TD5 in a D2, 20 years back!
Oooh! DEF filling! That’s an excellent suggestion! Thanks! I shall do that. I fill up at my local UFA, so I’ll try to figure out how to record there without them getting twitchy about phones and pumps! Lol!
Now you’ve raised an interesting thought about fuel filters! The AJV8s have a fuel filter in the tank as part of the pump (the things a bit of a nightmare and clogged on my LR3 requiring me to replace the whole pump). I thought the D5 would be the same! Are you saying there’s a separate fuel filter on the diesel D5s? I’ll have to do a video on that if there is one one - I never even thought to ask my parts guy! I will this coming week!
@@shedlock2000 I’ve found the filter housings difficult on a few V8 powerstrokes in small dump trucks. They always come off but the amount of effort seems over the top for what it is. As to DEF I’ve been buying high quality German made product from the VW dealership because I’ve read that some people have had problems over the years with lesser brands. The VW juice is inexpensive,meets all of the euro specs, and comes in a container with fill spout for the small fill hole. Lastly the 3.0 has a fuel filter in the fire wall, drivers side behind the removable plastic. It is a fairly easy job to replace with a few removable quick lock lines going to the top. It won’t be easy to film though as there isn’t much room to work with. Thanks for the insight on the roof rack.
I have bought German DEF from my local VW dealership as well. I use the container as a funnel to fill up from the pump. I have heard similar about the quality of the DEF. When I researched DEF quality, there seems to be a ISO22241-1 or DIN 70070 requirement. The grade at my local UFA pump meets or exceeds that requirement, and so I use that; I have not (yet) had any difficulties and its $19 a litre cheaper!!
I will check out the fuel filter replacement -- I'll likely do it at 10,000 miles, as that seems like a good interval to me (though I will check JLR's recommended service intervals and half it! LOL
@@shedlock2000 what are you paying per litre for def up there? I just purchased 20L at the local vw dealer here in the states and it was 94 cents per L. Also I don't think my 2017 uses much at all. I always see people on forums talking about the high cost of keeping the def tank full. Last question, how often does yours go through regen? In 13k miles I've only had mine go 3 times i think.
It cost me $24 for a gallon from VW and costs about $1.05 a litre from the pump. VW have a larger quantity which is cheaper (obviously), but I bought the small one so that I could use it as a funnel for the pump.
Not to sure about re-gens! I’ve not had one yet (so far as I know), and I’ve done 6,000 miles in mine. I can only assume I’m due one soon.
I’m sure you know this, but the DEF is used in SCR (selective catalyst reduction) to reduce the concentration of NO in exhaust. The regens are a different thing entirely, and they burn the soot which collects in an exhaust filter. These ‘active’ regenerations take fuel and inject it into the DPF and ignite it to help burn out the soot. Failed regens can cause oil dilution as the unburied fuel somehow ends up being cycled into the sump (so I’m led to understand). The DEF, however, is consumed in the cat to reduce NOx in the emissions. DEF consumption cannot start until the vehicle reaches normal temperature, and so many short journeys can result in the vehicle complaining about DEF function; it’s advisable to run the vehicle to proper operating temperature at least once every couple of days if you’re making only short journeys to avoid DEF injection issues. I’m not sure how much mine uses. I filled it up with 4 gallons at 4,000 miles, my current fill-up amount is 2.5 gallons and I’ve done about 2,000 miles (town work, it seems, uses more). Filling up at the pump is not very expensive and cheaper product can be bought from auto-parts places (though the quality is suspect). The 1 gallon bottles here are quite expensive by comparison, and the 1 gallon from JLR is $35. It’s not excessive once every 5,000 miles, but it’s certainly cheaper at $1.05 a litre!
The DPF regens are a bit more complex and I don’t fully understand the system really. What I can say is that they run regens when the level of soot builds up to a certain level. I don’t know what kinds of driving develops more soot, but I imagine it’d be the kind where wide throttle openings are likely to develop soot and/or unburied fuel. For the last 5,000 miles, I’ve done pretty much nothing but highway work, so I haven’t noticed any issues. Recently (the last 1,000 miles) has been more in-town stuff, so I’m planning on hitting the highway for 20 minutes or so fairly soon (20 minutes is the recommended interval for activating the regen). Continual failed regens will result in the vehicle indicating a longer highway trip is needed - least, so I’m told!
Hi good vid , i'm now thinking of a toyota LAND CRUISER if i can get the new 300 model , instead of a defender because of the way JLR treat customers , Hello from Dublin again . A video on winter driveing would be a good idea ! Block heater it what your looking for
Greetings, Dublin (and hi Micheál)!
Yeah, I’ve had block heaters in all my others - I’m not at all sure why the D5 has that coolant heater rather than a block heater. I bet Ford have something to screw in theirs; I bet one would bolt straight on!
I didn’t have much luck with my Toyota, and the Toyota dealerships have a worse attitude here than do JLR (believe it or not) - though I’m sure that’s not a world-wide affliction! I know the manager at the local dealer we have in town, so I don’t get any of that from him. The new Tundra here (released late ‘21) is a bit of a machine and they have improved much. However, I’m not a truck guy really and they don’t sell the LC here in Canada.
I still find Toyota to be a bit basic in terms of spec and tech - and certainly im terms of fit and finish. But I can see their attraction. I’ve had issues with my Toys in the past, but I recognise their general dependability. I don’t know that I could ever own another, though: I’m not really fond of their overall aesthetic (given that my only option here is the bed-sprung ForeRunner or some bloated Lexus).
The defender is a very good vehicle if you can get a good one. Both mine were dodgy and the dealership (and corporate) back-up was non-existent (as you know from my earlier videos). To be honest, the L663 is a massive improvement on the LC300s so far as I can tell. But I do get your reservation - especially now I’ve had my HLR Corporate experience. I think you’ll likely have better luck with UK Toyota dealerships - and if you like the LCs, then you should seriously consider one. But the L663 shouldn’t be written off so quickly. IF (capitals for emphasis) you have a good dealer and you can get a diesel, I believe the L663 to be hard to beat. The D5 is a stunning tool, but it is quite simply the ugliest thing to come out of Solihull (mine was built there) since the Forest Rover.
What you need is international spec ACEA E7 low SAPS synthetic oil. The viscosity is best to be on the thinner side for cold and very cold weather, so 0W/20 should be ideal.
You may well be right, Huw. I’m not well up enough on oil specs to know the difference. I’ve reached out to Cameron to ask about the APEC-US spec crossover. I know the oil needs to be 0W something, but I think Ford have tried harder to increase the upper end viscosity to protect the crank and liners - the -20 may be too thin to protect against wear. JLR spec a 0W-30 or 5W-30, while their petrols have 0W-20 as you know.
Cameron seemed to think moving to the Ford spec would be better given the prevalence of crank fails (they have been shown to fail because the con-rod bearings pic up on the crank - that happens because of a lack of shell divots and because of decreased lubricant resistance at that point).
I’ve given some thought tonight on what you’ve said, and I do wonder if a 0W-30 would be better for winter (the very cold part). I might drop this towards January and throw in a 0W-30 (Ford don’t recommend anything lower than a 30 weight).
The problem with SAE 0W-20 is that it will have insufficient HTHS viscosity. ACEA E7 and API CI-4 onwards require a minimum HTHS of 3.5 mPa·s at 150°C (302°F), regardless of SAE viscosity. SAE 0W-20 minimum HTHS is 2.6 mPa·s at 150°C (302°F), and most are in the 2.6 to 2.9 mPa·s range. Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 is based on the API CK-4 specification (similar to ACEA E9 sold in Europe) but has a phosphorus requirement of 1,000 to 1,200 ppm (0.10 to 0.12% mass). This is because Ford noticed excessive engine wear with some API CK-4 formulations, which, like ACEA E9, have a blanket maximum phosphorus limit of 1,200 ppm (0.12% mass), but no minimum limit.
JLR spec of STJLR.03.5005, last updated in 2016, is for SAE 5W-30 only based upon ACEA C1 with additional JLR requirements. It's effectively a re-write of Ford Europe specification WSS-M2C934-B. ACEA C1, as of the 2021 oil sequences, is now obsolete. Oils to this specification have a minimum HTHS of 2.9 mPa·s at 150°C (302°F) and a blanket maximum phosphorus requirement of 500 ppm (0.05% mass).
Since our 2.7 TDV6 in our 2006 Discovery 3 has just done a big end in, when it gets rebuild I will be using the Ford North America specification oil. The only oils I have seen in the UK which are approved against WSS-M2C171-F1 as recommended by Ford North America for use with biodiesel above 5% (the UK is 7%) and suitable for our climate are:
Fuchs Titan Cargo SAE 5W-40 (API CK-4/SN, ACEA E9*)
Liqui Moly Special Tec AA 5W-40 Diesel (API CK-4**, ACEA E9*)
*Manufacturer listed on www.sail-europe.eu/registrations/lubricant-marketers
**Product listed on engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
@@cameronwood1994 Hi Cameron!
Thanks for weighing in! This is excellent info and much appreciated. I was hoping you’d come along and add some useful data to the comment thread.
The 0W-40s I added in the fall may need to come out now, as temps are dropping to -30°c. I’ll be looking for a 0W-30s - I’ll pick one that meets Ford’s WSS number from the screen shot you gave me some time back.
The oil won’t be doing 5k this time, but it’s only oil! Curiously enough, though, I have noticed a mpg loss with the 0W-40s in! (Not complaining, just observing the difference).
Coming from a Toyota - I've heard of this syphoning out the oil....can you not just pop the plug out the bottom and let it drip?
Yes, of course! However there are a number of bash guards that require removal and so on, so it’s a far longer process and a ramp makes the job much easier. Given that the amount left in the sump is minimal compared to the 8 gallon fill, I am far more inclined to vacuum the oil out (though once every now and then I do a full drain to check the magnet on the sump for particulates).
@shedlock2000 thanks! I've actually done a lot of reading since yesterday. Biggest complaint is the oil shooting straight out but there is a plug with a 90 degree valve that exists out of Europe. So I'll likely full dump every other change. On my Tundra, I have steel skid plates but my hands are small enough to fit the trap door for the filter (I'm female) and I have a fumoto valve. The bash gaurds dont look too bad to take off. Easier and lighter than my plates. I see you used 0w40....were you running that in the summer as well?
Yes, I usually try to do a sump drain once every other service or so. Performing short service intervals (which is very important) means that the oil shouldn’t get to dirty that the tiny residual would matter.
The belly plate on the disco isn’t too bad to pull off, and you can do it at home on ramps (see my video for the harder oil service on the defender - which has two plates to remove). I can’t comment about the oil shooting straight out, I usually use a piece of tin as a deflector for such things because I’m mindful of any angled spout catching off road on snow and ice (which would be a major bad day if it were caught).
I’m putting together a video very soon on engine oils for Land Rovers, so stay tuned! However, to answer your question, I ran 0W/40s in winter and 5W/40s in summer. This is a better option to protect the crank on the TD6s, which are known to be a bit of a drama. Most important is meeting the specs that I mentioned in the video, as these are relevant to your oil selection. Remember that changing your oil often is part of the solution to avoiding crank grab and snap.
Because of this, you’re far better sucking out the oil frequently than only getting round to dropping your oil through the sump infrequently (I am referring to the time you have to allot for a sump drain opposed to that for a sump drain - not your actual intent to chance the oil). That is to say that if you don’t have much time, you’re far better sucking out the oil in 20 minutes than you are waiting another few weeks to have time to drain it from the sump.
Also, I think I may have given the wrong full amount in the video - check your manual, but I think you need 6 gallons not 8 (the 8 is for the V8s and the P400s).
Good luck! And let me know if I can be any more help! You can find me on the other social medias under the same username if you need to reach out in a hurry.
@@shedlock2000 Thank you so much!
I'd have to actually see the placement of the drain plug to see if it would be issue but I've had zero issues with my fumoto on my tundra which has the skid plate mostly covering it. Also, from the lower mainland so not much snow here. I'm thinking of getting steel skids fabricated if I end up with the LR and putting the trap doors where I need them. Should prevent any issues if I do put the other valve on.
The oil thing is crazy. I watched LR Time's, @Vera_and_Christian, video on the Lion V6 crank issues and it is crazy that anyone would still do the LR recommended oil changes with the oil they want. I wish more people would watch your videos and try to preserve these vehicles. I've seen so many mucked up from mall crawling...it's insane.
When I first started looking for a Disco 5 TD6, the sales person at the LR here told me to do the oil changes every 5k and not to use the oil they recommend. This person told me about all the full engine replacements and suggested I continue to do my own work. Crazy!
Did you get rid of yours? I actually looked into a couple older supercharged rovers BUT the pricing is insane in BC. Not worth it
I’m always cautious of putting in any design weakness, and a redirection plate is very easy to construct out of a bit of old tin! So that’s the method I’ve used for some time now when required. I drove over a small pine branch once, and knocked off the DFP injector, which is tucked right up next to the transmission - why it’s not shielded I don’t know, but it reminded me of how spurious events can cause drama.
The Tundra and the D5 are very different vehicles. I’ve a lot of respect for Toyota, though I’ve had bad luck with the ones I’ve had (one of which included a snapped crank on a Land Cruiser, curiously), however the D5 experience is next generation compared to even new Tundras. I’ve a friend here with a 2020 Tundra, and he was much disappointed with it compared to my D5 - through they’re broadly similar in age and supposed spec. JLR do make a remarkable product, al things considered, and it’s no surprise that they have the reputation for luxury and ability that they do.
I’ve no clue why people persist with long drain oil intervals. Despite the content on my channel, I still come across many people with land rovers keeping 12-20k intervals on their D5’s or Defenders! It’s complete madness. But people who don’t keep vehicles long are often happy to give problems to the second owners. I’m having that issue now, as I’ve got transmission shudder in my L322 - a function of the original owner not servicing the box at 75k!
Yes, I sold mine when Taryn and I separated, as there was a fairly significant financial payout I needed to make - having a $70k vehicle at that point was not a viable option. The vehicle was lovely and I really liked it, though the L322 is just as good (though you lose out on the option to camp in it because the seats don’t fold fully flat). I’d have trouble picking between the two. However, one piece of advice I can give you is to not go with the massage seats, as the seat bases are not the best for very long-haul driving (I do about 1000 miles in a day sometimes, hitting up perhaps 60,000 miles a year).
Either a Webasto or Eberspcker [spelling?] engine heater were available in the UK. Wasn’t Webasto part of the American Westinghouse Air Brake Company?
Yeah, the FBHs are standard fitment to Nordic vehicles too.! They have a Sebastopol in them (not sure why them and not Eberspächer - they probably have a deal with them). However, they were never an option on the D5s in North America. A sad situation given the temperatures reached up here. Idling the diesel without a fast-idle is ridiculous and I’m not at all sure how effective that little pump will be in the cold, Huw! Can’t imagine a 1000w heater will be much good against -40°c - even if it’s in water.
u constently says it takes 8 L of oil and complain about being low when u suck it out, but if u look on the sheet u put on the screen its the 3L petrol version that's uses 8L of oil the Diesel only 6 L of oil :)
Hi Nils,
Thanks for bringing this up! I had incorrectly indicated the service fill level noticed and you are right -- I have just been back to the iGuide to check what's written there and it does say 6 litres for the 3.0lt diesel! Good spotting!
Now, I poured in well over 6 litres (each container contains 1 US gallon, or 3.78 litres) -- but I had to add more out of the third to make the mark on the electronic oil level gauge, as you saw in the latter part of the video. So that is an area of concern.
Does this mean that the electronic fill level sensor is out, I wonder? The filter housing may hold some, but it's not a spin on canister, so presumably it runs back into the sump.... So that doesn't help with the missing oil either.
What are your thoughts here?
@@shedlock2000 i actually remember something from a video from Deutschland about the tube on the sensor not clipping in correctly, maby worth looking into?
i also think it was a service bulletin for it on the lr4
Oh! That’s interesting. Don’t suppose you can remember the link?
Was the video about the loose sensor?
This is why posting these kinds of things is so helpful - the world-wide experience and support is tremendous! Thanks for taking the time to comment; I’ll have to make an update video.
RAVENOL J1A1541, according to my user manual this one can be found in The US.
Good to know, Ryan! I’ll try to see if it’s available here in the Canada! Thanks for the comment, hopefully others will be able to find it too!