Yes Eric, I have had to do the same with collected trees to fully stabilize so it won’t fall over. Many of the same techniques. Thanks for sharing as I really enjoy refreshers before the potting season starts in about 4 weeks.
Excellent work. My most difficult repotting this year has to go to my four and half foot bloodgood maple tree nursery stock. To my surprise when I placed it in massive tub over winter the roots didn't want to stay confined to the nursery pot shape. So naturally the tree was working with me on this one. It got a heavy trunk chop and I've cauterized the wound to prevent bleed out. What roots I had to take out were grafted on to the small branches. If I done everything right I should have eight new trees and two raft styles to work with.
Aussie Dave here, well done 👌😀. A very informative video.. I love it see these challenges on reporting 😃. Josh from (Bonsai En) had a large cascading juniper in a 2 or 3 foot cascade pot,, I would have loved to see how Josh repotted that challenging juniper 🤔😉🌲
Yes! Actually, I may do a video soon on deadwood work as it relates to both repotting/rotting basies, and just the interface of the lifeline and the deadwood.
Love these videos on the more challenging work. I have a question about the pot though. Even if they work together is that lip that shapes inward not going to cause repotting issues in the future and if so would it not have been possible to discuss that with the owner and try something that might protect repotting in the future?
Interesting point. Using a scythe/cutter to extract the trees is pretty standard technique in my experience. It would be no different here. All the major roots that would have been sticking out were removed, so the next repot will be mostly just maintenance. The owner actually supplied a larger pot also, but it was the same style and not as elegant as this one.
Why would you choose a less-stable footed pot when you know that the tree already has lots of balance/tipping issues? Not criticizing; just wondering what was the thought process of choosing the pot that would be the most suitable for this tree.
A combination of factors - this was the best pot the client had, and he had purchased it and others for the tree specifically. And sometimes the practical considerations are secondary to the aesthetics. I felt it was a good aesthetic match. After finishing the repot, I created a litter for the tree, strapped it down and took it back to the client. With the tree tied to the litter, there is no way for it to tip over (well within reason.)
Joe - spot on. I've used it many times, and one of my students even did a whole large section of an olive to stop it from rotting. It actually seems to work better than "wood hardener" and show less visible residue, which is the down side of many wood stabilizing techniques.
There are junipers that will grow in tropical areas, but I'm not sure what they are. You should check the books by Cheng Cheng. He's in Taiwan and known for his juniper work. I believe you'll need a variety like what he uses, which is different than what is used in Japan and other temperate climates.
In this case I would tell the owner to leave it on and allow moss to populate. This particular client has some challenges with keeping weeds out, so it may end up being removed. The sphagnum effectively increases the depth of the pot.
I know pots are subjective, but I find that this pot is visually just too small for the tree. It gives the tree a feeling of instability as well as a lack of proportion, as witnessed by the need for a prop and tie-downs.
Ah, interesting that you say that. I would not recommend that an inexperienced hobbyist do this type of root work. But, the tree did survive, and in fact is growing very nicely in the new pot. While junipers grow slower in smaller containers, in this case that is part of the reason for the repot - as we approach a mature silhouette, we want to slow the growth of the tree. This tree will be show ready in another 2 years!
It looks like a dragon coming in for a landing. Stunning tree; outstanding, intelligent repot.
So unique and beatiful tree.
Yes Eric, I have had to do the same with collected trees to fully stabilize so it won’t fall over. Many of the same techniques. Thanks for sharing as I really enjoy refreshers before the potting season starts in about 4 weeks.
Also the use of galvanized wire was new to me. Will have to try that
It's good for larger trees, less stretching than aluminum.
Tricky work on a delicate tree! Nice!
This is an awesome tree and pot combo! Great explanation throughout each step as well! Thanks for taking us along!
Great job. I love that tree and pot together. It looked amazing. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Wow! What a cool tree! Great video. Thank you so much for sharing.
Excellent work.
My most difficult repotting this year has to go to my four and half foot bloodgood maple tree nursery stock. To my surprise when I placed it in massive tub over winter the roots didn't want to stay confined to the nursery pot shape. So naturally the tree was working with me on this one. It got a heavy trunk chop and I've cauterized the wound to prevent bleed out. What roots I had to take out were grafted on to the small branches. If I done everything right I should have eight new trees and two raft styles to work with.
Nice. Dicing up big trees into smaller ones is a good strategy!
Very good technique and execution
Another great video! I was interested to see if you would incorporate some stonework to help stabilize the trunk instead of a wood block...
Great work. Wish it was mine. Cheers from Ojai California
Aussie Dave here, well done 👌😀. A very informative video.. I love it see these challenges on reporting 😃. Josh from (Bonsai En) had a large cascading juniper in a 2 or 3 foot cascade pot,, I would have loved to see how Josh repotted that challenging juniper 🤔😉🌲
Thanks! Yeah, some repots are a lot harder than others. I can do 10 normal repots in the time it takes to do one like this!
Really nice...good job
Beautiful tree!
Thank you! 😊
Succes friend
Very good bonsai 👍 i like 🏅🏅
Maybe clean all the moss from the deadwood in the base and treating it with wood hardener or something could be useful to delay the rotting?
Yes! Actually, I may do a video soon on deadwood work as it relates to both repotting/rotting basies, and just the interface of the lifeline and the deadwood.
@@Bonsaify Sounds like a great video!
Love these videos on the more challenging work. I have a question about the pot though. Even if they work together is that lip that shapes inward not going to cause repotting issues in the future and if so would it not have been possible to discuss that with the owner and try something that might protect repotting in the future?
Interesting point. Using a scythe/cutter to extract the trees is pretty standard technique in my experience. It would be no different here. All the major roots that would have been sticking out were removed, so the next repot will be mostly just maintenance. The owner actually supplied a larger pot also, but it was the same style and not as elegant as this one.
Why would you choose a less-stable footed pot when you know that the tree already has lots of balance/tipping issues? Not criticizing; just wondering what was the thought process of choosing the pot that would be the most suitable for this tree.
A combination of factors - this was the best pot the client had, and he had purchased it and others for the tree specifically. And sometimes the practical considerations are secondary to the aesthetics. I felt it was a good aesthetic match. After finishing the repot, I created a litter for the tree, strapped it down and took it back to the client. With the tree tied to the litter, there is no way for it to tip over (well within reason.)
For rotting wood I stabilise it with super glue that does the job very well you should try it.
Joe - spot on. I've used it many times, and one of my students even did a whole large section of an olive to stop it from rotting. It actually seems to work better than "wood hardener" and show less visible residue, which is the down side of many wood stabilizing techniques.
nice job
I'm very interested in juniper, by your video I can learn about it, but I live in tropical country. Is there any different way to grow it nicely?
There are junipers that will grow in tropical areas, but I'm not sure what they are. You should check the books by Cheng Cheng. He's in Taiwan and known for his juniper work. I believe you'll need a variety like what he uses, which is different than what is used in Japan and other temperate climates.
how did they get the holes in the trunk? it looks like multiple branches all merging into one
Great tree and awesome instruction as always ! How long are you having the top dressing stay on that ?
In this case I would tell the owner to leave it on and allow moss to populate. This particular client has some challenges with keeping weeds out, so it may end up being removed. The sphagnum effectively increases the depth of the pot.
Unusual shape, it's a wonder how it doesn't fall over hey???
I told the owner to strap it to the bench also!
Well, better than strapping it to your head.
❤❤❤❤❤
Like again even if I already saw it in mono
sounds better this time right? ;-)
@@Bonsaify yess
@@Bonsaify yep
I know pots are subjective, but I find that this pot is visually just too small for the tree. It gives the tree a feeling of instability as well as a lack of proportion, as witnessed by the need for a prop and tie-downs.
Hope the tree would survive. You removed too much roots and the pot too small for the tree. Gudluck..
Ah, interesting that you say that. I would not recommend that an inexperienced hobbyist do this type of root work. But, the tree did survive, and in fact is growing very nicely in the new pot. While junipers grow slower in smaller containers, in this case that is part of the reason for the repot - as we approach a mature silhouette, we want to slow the growth of the tree. This tree will be show ready in another 2 years!
That moss needs cleaning off, with a heavy dose of wood hardener on that dead wood as soon as possible.
Beautiful tree.
That's a good point. Deadwood work!
yo