Thank you Chris. I have been searching for a good video on fitting DCC sound to a new SARM 38 class. Finally found yours. I am eagerly awaiting my backordered non-streamlined black 38 DCC ready. When I get it I will be following your guidance keenly. I'd like to learn more about your close coupling spring. It's a great idea.
Thanks for an excellent video. In fitting parts such as dynamo, whistle, regulator and safety valves by Ozie Detailing Parts/Kerobi is it just a case of removing the existing units and drilling appropriate holes to mount the alternative parts without removing the body of the loco. I asked a well known fixer of locos to make the alterations but they advised it was beyond the normal fixing work. The hands of an 89 yr old are not what they used to be. Ken Durham
This is a fantastic video, very informative. Thanks for posting. I have one of these running on DCC without any problems, or so I thought. After seeing your video I'll be checking a couple of things on the loco. Well done.
Thanks Doug look out for another video update when the 2nd and 3rd variations from ARM of the 38 arrive in streamlined and non Streamlined in black livery. I’ll make sure I back up all the video immediately next time.
Fantastic video and clear advice on how to improve this model. I have one and will be following some of your tips. Thank you so much for such a helpful video
Thanks for sharing, can't wait to get stuck in to mine when it arrives. I don't suppose anymore pics / footage survived of the link modification at all as that's the one thing I'm worried about at the moment, particularly easing that retainer pin out. Many thanks
Sorry the video I did of that was lost and most photos the photos I used were ones I had loaded to a Facebook group when I get the next version of the ARM the 38 model I will do a new video of modifying the link. Basically the pin can be removed by carefully filing the back down and then popping out the pin from the front, you don’t have to remove a lot from the pin as the plastic is quite rubbery in nature it will come out without much trouble and if you don’t take too much off it will relocate easily and stay in position. My own ARM 38 has now done well in excess of 14 hours of actual running. Modifying the link was a mater of using the Dremel to open up the hole and then solder up the where the new hole should go before drilling for the pin, alternative is to just remove pin and place the link above the pin and it will be close to the right position Happy modelling
@@HDTGPA no worries, many thanks for the information. Did you pop a new pin in after moving the link up or just popped a dab of super glue on the back of the old one to keep in place? Mine arrived from Hornby direct but sadly, had a few parts missing (brake hangers & cab handrails) , coupling rods were too tight and the motor was very sticky. Took an unbelievable amount of power to move it and then it just flew off the mark limping and waddling! The replacement I'm happy to say, is almost as it should be, only issue as far as I can see are the coupling rods again are to tight so need the ends opening out with a file I think. Will definitely look into getting the relevant detail parts over here from Oz too. I was very tempted to respray and line it up as the 3830 in the darker green but don't know of any lining transfer packs that exist or any detail differences between the earlier and later 38's. Thanks again and happy modelling, best regards 😉🙏
@@ScaniaVabis580 Re the expansion link pin no the original pin is reused, the lucky thing with the expansion link bracket is that the plastic is very flexible so a small amount removed from the rear of the pin is enough to allow it to be eased out then refitted. My guess is in the factory when the pin is installed it’s like a rivet with the inner surface being deformed to retain in position. No glue was needed to secure
@@ScaniaVabis580 re repainting yes decal sets are available Casula hobbies in Sydney have most options for decals plus most detail parts were back in stock last time I checked. Not good re the first model I did experience a build issue with the very first one that arrived the motor mount screw had been striped allowing the motor gear to come out of mesh. Replaced has now done many hours of running with no issues
Hi Bruce. The decoder is a ESU V5 with my own sound file.unsung some files from the ESU library and recordings I engineered my self. The speakers are from Digikey 25x15.5mm in the front of smoke box and a 20x13mm in the rear of the chassis Another clip with a loco running ua-cam.com/video/EmzWGSVM84E/v-deo.html
Cheers for the video. My front and rear wheels were out of gauge too.
Thank you Chris. I have been searching for a good video on fitting DCC sound to a new SARM 38 class. Finally found yours. I am eagerly awaiting my backordered non-streamlined black 38 DCC ready. When I get it I will be following your guidance keenly. I'd like to learn more about your close coupling spring. It's a great idea.
Great informative video,well done Chris,I have a 38 so will be following your mods,one of the best modeling videos I have seen,thanks Pete S
Thanks for an excellent video. In fitting parts such as dynamo, whistle, regulator and safety valves by Ozie Detailing Parts/Kerobi is it just a case of removing the existing units and drilling appropriate holes to mount the alternative parts without removing the body of the loco. I asked a well known fixer of locos to make the alterations but they advised it was beyond the normal fixing work. The hands of an 89 yr old are not what they used to be. Ken Durham
This is a fantastic video, very informative. Thanks for posting. I have one of these running on DCC without any problems, or so I thought. After seeing your video I'll be checking a couple of things on the loco.
Well done.
Thanks Doug look out for another video update when the 2nd and 3rd variations from ARM of the 38 arrive in streamlined and non Streamlined in black livery.
I’ll make sure I back up all the video immediately next time.
Fantastic video and clear advice on how to improve this model. I have one and will be following some of your tips. Thank you so much for such a helpful video
Excellent Video! I'm saving up for one of these for my layout! thanks for sharing mate!
Does anyone know how to fit a couplet to the front?
Fantastic work Chris, well done, wish I had the skills to do this, might have to get someone ro do it for me.
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing, can't wait to get stuck in to mine when it arrives.
I don't suppose anymore pics / footage survived of the link modification at all as that's the one thing I'm worried about at the moment, particularly easing that retainer pin out.
Many thanks
Sorry the video I did of that was lost and most photos the photos I used were ones I had loaded to a Facebook group when I get the next version of the ARM the 38 model I will do a new video of modifying the link.
Basically the pin can be removed by carefully filing the back down and then popping out the pin from the front, you don’t have to remove a lot from the pin as the plastic is quite rubbery in nature it will come out without much trouble and if you don’t take too much off it will relocate easily and stay in position. My own ARM 38 has now done well in excess of 14 hours of actual running. Modifying the link was a mater of using the Dremel to open up the hole and then solder up the where the new hole should go before drilling for the pin, alternative is to just remove pin and place the link above the pin and it will be close to the right position
Happy modelling
@@HDTGPA no worries, many thanks for the information. Did you pop a new pin in after moving the link up or just popped a dab of super glue on the back of the old one to keep in place?
Mine arrived from Hornby direct but sadly, had a few parts missing (brake hangers & cab handrails) , coupling rods were too tight and the motor was very sticky. Took an unbelievable amount of power to move it and then it just flew off the mark limping and waddling!
The replacement I'm happy to say, is almost as it should be, only issue as far as I can see are the coupling rods again are to tight so need the ends opening out with a file I think. Will definitely look into getting the relevant detail parts over here from Oz too.
I was very tempted to respray and line it up as the 3830 in the darker green but don't know of any lining transfer packs that exist or any detail differences between the earlier and later 38's.
Thanks again and happy modelling, best regards 😉🙏
@@ScaniaVabis580 Re the expansion link pin no the original pin is reused, the lucky thing with the expansion link bracket is that the plastic is very flexible so a small amount removed from the rear of the pin is enough to allow it to be eased out then refitted. My guess is in the factory when the pin is installed it’s like a rivet with the inner surface being deformed to retain in position. No glue was needed to secure
@@ScaniaVabis580 re repainting yes decal sets are available
Casula hobbies in Sydney have most options for decals plus most detail parts were back in stock last time I checked.
Not good re the first model
I did experience a build issue with the very first one that arrived the motor mount screw had been striped allowing the motor gear to come out of mesh. Replaced has now done many hours of running with no issues
Thanks for that, can I ask, where you got the HO wheel guage?
I will definitely modify the upcoming 3803 and 3820
do you think you could put in the description the detailed parts you used on the c38
I got offered a trade my eureka 3830 qsi for a 3820 amr esu would this be a good trade?
What sound decoder and speaker did you use?
Hi Bruce.
The decoder is a ESU V5 with my own sound file.unsung some files from the ESU library and recordings I engineered my self.
The speakers are from Digikey 25x15.5mm in the front of smoke box and a 20x13mm in the rear of the chassis
Another clip with a loco running ua-cam.com/video/EmzWGSVM84E/v-deo.html