Testing a Boats Galvanic Isolator
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- My zinc anodes appeared to be wearing away at a much faster rate than anticipated so I jumped in the bilge and with some basic tools and multimeter I tested my Prosafe Zinc Saver to ensure it was working properly.
If you need a new Galvanic Isolator/ zinc saver, click this link:
30amp Prosafe Failsafe Galvanic Isolator: amzn.to/3NfL0gc
50/60 amp Galvanic Isolator: amzn.to/43qvfbU
Digital multimeter with diode test: amzn.to/3MVbGRZ
Your zinc saver works fine, your test is valid, but your interpretation needs a slight adjustment. The multimeter diode test measures voltage drop, not resistance. The stray current needed to bridge this device (and wear your zincs) would have to exceed your .9 volts. Most of your stray current will not exceed millivolts, this device will block that current keeping it bonded to the service ground. This device blocks stray current from your drive unless it exceeds .9 volts (well below any safety threshold). I do appreciate your tutorials. I would not been familiar with this zinc saver without your video. 40 years ago, I took the class on how to calculate the voltage drop across a diode junction. Since then, I use the diode function on my multimeter.🙂
I was confused why the diode test was under the ohm selector. Lol. Thanks for the explanation. I have a rudimentary knowledge of it. Just enough to get me into trouble. 😜
The diode check is NOT OHMS it is voltage drop across the leads(The meter sends a small voltage out) Second I noticed your copper in the earth line has turned black @1:41 ... there is your problem..... Replace your green earth wires... both of them.
Interesting product. We had a marina neighbor who was hot and we had to replace our zincs every 3 mo!!
Don’t use Camp…use ZIMAR anodes. They are based in Davie, Florida and have found them to have superior quality. When anodes protect, they get eaten away. Still, it’s good to use the galvanic isolator as per the video to avoid stray currents entering through the ground line of shore power and eating away your anodes or other metals being protected.
I usually get my anodes from boatzincs.com. I’ve found them to be good quality and not too pricey.
Coming from fresh water to salt, you’re gonna definitely be surprised how quickly zincs erode away. If you’re in all year, definitely pull every few months just to swap em out. Up here in the northeast, by the end of the season in October, they’re just about gone
I’ll be keeping an eye on them. Will have a video out soon of me diving under the boat to check things out.
Did you check the wiring behind the zincsaver? The white cover seems to be overheated so the connection can be bad and can cause fire. Please check
I didn’t notice that. Will have to check. Thanks!
Problem is that you can do everything perfectly and your neighbor can have stray current and destroy your props.
Yes I have learned quite a bit about it. I’m planning on checking my zincs often. Looking forward to diving under the boat again. Lol
This was the toroidal prop test I was talking about. It would be interesting to see if it increased your fuel efficiency. ua-cam.com/video/MNnB_50Z20I/v-deo.html
It appears they don’t make them for inboards.
@@AdventuresofHappyOurs :(
What I don't get is why these devices are so big and expensive, when essentially they are just a couple of very inexpensive and small (say 16A) diodes back to back? Thanks
The housing is a heat dissipator, also the unit needs to block dc stray current while still allowing ac fault current to travel. This particular unit fails in the closed mode, older ones should all be tested as they do not have failsafe diodes, unit should state on cover.